[a / b / c / d / e / f / g / gif / h / hr / k / m / o / p / r / s / t / u / v / vg / vr / w / wg] [i / ic] [r9k / s4s / vip / qa] [cm / hm / lgbt / y] [3 / aco / adv / an / asp / bant / biz / cgl / ck / co / diy / fa / fit / gd / hc / his / int / jp / lit / mlp / mu / n / news / out / po / pol / qst / sci / soc / sp / tg / toy / trv / tv / vp / wsg / wsr / x] [Settings] [Search] [Home]
Settings Home
/diy/ - Do It Yourself

4chan Pass users can bypass this verification. [Learn More] [Login]
  • Please read the Rules and FAQ before posting.
  • There are 34 posters in this thread.

05/04/17New trial board added: /bant/ - International/Random
10/04/16New board for 4chan Pass users: /vip/ - Very Important Posts
06/20/16New 4chan Banner Contest with a chance to win a 4chan Pass! See the contest page for details.
[Hide] [Show All]

Now accepting credit card payment for 4chan Pass purchases and renewals. Click here for details.

File: stab3.jpg (83 KB, 1600x1200)
83 KB
All things considered in knife making.
Questions about techniques and tools.
Show your rigs, props, machines and knives.
Ask for and give advice about anything concerning forging.
Heat treatment, finish and stock removal.

last threat>>1516520
File: lolop.jpg (81 KB, 1600x1200)
81 KB
so far i am making good progress on my dagger, refirged it because had enough material do get it wider but still was too afraid to get to the whole broadness i actualy planned
so i will just make the blade a bit slimmer
File: kloklo.jpg (169 KB, 1200x1600)
169 KB
169 KB JPG
now getting the surface clane and the symmetry right is the next pain in the ass...

or... you could do it right, get the right thickness/width of stock, and make a blade again. use that one for a design that suits a narrower one.

Dont compromise on the basic shape of a dagger, it will never look like the real ones.
i do forge it from round,
not stock removal.
and the real ones had pretty wide variety.
it's gonna be reproduction though i use a modern steel. there is no change in the basic shape, the dipp will be filed into finite form,the problem with the build is to have enough material left to get a straight blade out of it.
if i use flatter dimensions i would end up with a different symmetry than i want.
btw many historical examples were less wide
as long as i stay in the range of findings and general direction of the order it will be ok.
i should redo the tang btw
Looking good. Make yourself a file jig.
Should I get into forging?
I've recently seen a lot of it on youtube, and I'm a bit inspired.

I have a good anvil already, and I can probably build a propane or kero furnace.
No idea on a hammer though, but I know its the most important tool, so HF crap I have isnt going to cut it.
Any recommendations?
mhm thought about that, you have a instruction how to make a good one?
A 2 pounder with a wedge peen is a good start. If you have the money, get several different weights. Estwing sure-strike is a good choice for only $20 and it comes in 2.5, 1.5 and 4.5 pound sizes.

There's tons of vids on how to make a forge, just wear gloves and a mask when handling the kawool or cutting fire brick. Shit is nasty.

The basics are to make sure you can clamp the knife down so it doesn't move, making the eye bolt in the back long so you can adjust the angle up and down by twisting it, and use a stiff pipe or thick rod so it doesn't bend.
>i do forge it from round,

in which case you need a larger diameter of stock.

"stock" does not simply mean removal, stock is also what your raw material is before you shape it. How you shape it is irrelevant, its still stock, that you're forging to shape.
Every Start ist hard
i could form it out more but then i would run into the ganger of not having enough material to get a straight out of , i get what you mean, and still i do it this way for my reasons
oh, I entirely agree. And the difficulty of working from a secondary source like Waffen im Schweizerischen Landesmuseum is that while Schneider's a pretty good researcher, his work is dated, and you dont really have the distal data which I'd expect from the more recent generation of academic textbooks. And I'm guessing you're not likely to have the academic clout to get something like this out of the cabinets, and its hardly cost-effective to do so, trust me.

That said, I personally would be disappointed to accept 2nd best with the design drawing you've done. the proportions look right there with the longer point, and maybe a slight narrowing of the upper and lower guard thickness, if you're doing a stepped style guard. And working to that design would be the obvious course of action, rather than going off-script.
That you're using modern stock isnt a reason to accept 2nd best. Most of us, with the rare exceptions like Rik Furrier, Mark Green and Emiliano Carrillo, tend to be using modern stock for our work. Hell, even Peter Johnsson is using off-the-shelf Uddeholm steels. I tend to use flat bar simply because its less forgework, and that's a young man's game without a power hammer to enjoy. Arguing if its not drawn out from billet is just dick-waving, really. we have hydraulic driven rolling mills, we dont need to do that shit any longer.
actualy , if you can get me the bibliographic data i might get a hold of the more modern stuff
as i am in academia but well my university is much concentrated on history of ideas and book work and does not often look at material culture
reason i make compromises is, i do this for hobby, my tools are not the best,
this will be basicly a gift for a gift, deal,
if i could get more data on the distal taper, that would help me,
also not used to making daggers, exercise is in itself not a bad thing, to get my hammer allignment back after a break of some time.
and yes i do not have a power hammer,
i do not argue that using flat is invalid, i simply own no flat steel that would fit, and i make use of what i get i am a student currently and thus have no large budged.
I'll see what I can do in a bit, must finish a job by 11:59 here...
no problem
just post it here i will take it up
Harbor Freight crap will indeed cut it, at least temporarily. Until the handle breaks off, because they design them for failure by making the eye too narrow.

You can get a real cross peen at HD for 20 bucks though so just do that.

Any hammer you get you're going to have to grind the face flat anyway, unless you buy a real smithing hammer, which is overpriced.
File: 1549884445221.jpg (37 KB, 1600x1200)
37 KB
Make shallow cuts (1/4" or less) with a hacksaw as pic related, then forge down the tang using the corner of your anvil. That will help you get the tang narrowed and the base of the blade wider.
Well I mean I can spend a bit on a real hammer, but if I can make a hardware store one last long enough to git good and make my own, that works.
I just dont want to make it harder on myself because thats no fun
thanks but i know how to narrow the tang, did that before. so well thx.
File: 01.jpg (2.8 MB, 4000x3000)
2.8 MB
2.8 MB JPG
Started making knives on December 1st 2018. Dumping my currently made knives (mostly kitchen) All made with 5160 forged from leaf spring on the farm. All knives have 0 materials cost besides abrasives and propane.

First up: Meat and Veggie cleaver. 7mm thick blade, its more like a kitchen hatchet. But hey it was my first. Brass handles melted from irrigation valves
File: 02.jpg (2.79 MB, 4000x3000)
2.79 MB
2.79 MB JPG
4 inch bladed kitchen utility knife as a gift. Aluminum handle melted from farm junk.
File: 03.jpg (2.83 MB, 4000x3000)
2.83 MB
2.83 MB JPG
Full size chefs knife, aluminum handles. yes I still wind up with forge marks in the blade.

But I sharpen by hand and get them at least sharper than my JA Henkel chefs knif I use as a control
File: 04.jpg (2.69 MB, 4000x3000)
2.69 MB
2.69 MB JPG
Brass handled Tanto style paring knife to go with the first cleaver. Same styling and materials. This knife made me a beleiver in the tanto style for paring knife duties, the swept back blade is great for peeling, and the end is good for digging imperfections out of veggies.
File: 05.jpg (2.63 MB, 3000x4000)
2.63 MB
2.63 MB JPG
First knife I was commissioned to do. This is bushcraft knife. I used firearms cold blueing to blacken the steel. 1/8 inch brass nipples for the handle pins. The handles were made with maple donated by the lady who wanted the knife. 3 coats of linseed oil on the grip. Paracord lanyard included tied in a snake knot
File: 06.jpg (2.7 MB, 4000x3000)
2.7 MB
2.7 MB JPG
Filet knife to round off the brass handled set. Got the blade nice and thin, has some flex. This knife taught me never to make a knife that you don't want or are not excited about, took forever to get it done because I wasn't motivated
you need to learn how to grind, without leaving grind marks, or are those from sharpening? no bad build btw
File: 07.jpg (2.74 MB, 4000x3000)
2.74 MB
2.74 MB JPG
Last completed one. This was more of a proof of concept. It's my first dagger. Made it to give away, didn't even sharpen it as I am leaving it to whom i give it to. Aluminum handles again. Hollow pins using some random stainless steel tubing.

The handles on this wound up way to thick since aluminum sucks to grind.

Well thats it for now. Currently working on a Nakiri for a friend, but im stuck right now cause we are in 30 below temps here in Canada.

Hope y'all enjoyed seeing my progress. I enjoy kitchen knives more because they actually get used.

5160 isn't the greatest steel, but its free and it seems to work good enough for now. My knives don't go through any torture tests.

Those are grind marks from the 60 grit belts. I go up to 300 on the blades, but I have no patience to go for mirror finish. I have also read that on kitchen knives mirror finish is not desirable as food is more likely to stick.

I get a bit better with every one. "not bad" is good enough for me! :)
>no mirror finish
then go for a cleaner satin one.
general not too bad espacialy kitchen knife is nothing i done so far
Nice knives. I hate working with aluminum, kudos.
File: 12344321.jpg (1.75 MB, 3600x2700)
1.75 MB
1.75 MB JPG
Mitä vittu?
lol. from right to left:

Yellow box is a piggy bank for rolled change

That is a 1.6 kg ingot of aluminum i cast

Random overnight bag

Yes you caught me, im into bondage
File: N690 Feb19.jpg (1.02 MB, 2160x3836)
1.02 MB
1.02 MB JPG
Just as a rule with anything 'food processing', try to go with something which will avoid the accumulation of material on the surface, places bacteria can hide in and overall with a carbon blade you do want a relatively high satin/polish for the ability to shed water and it will help a lot with cleaning. You chef wont want to be hunting through every nook and cranny at the end of the day trying to hunt down rogue chunks of meat, oils and other goo hiding there.
That's just my opinion on those.

Been busy, couple of little bird-trout/utility knives. One in ebony and bulloak, the other in ringed gidgee about 4" long. The filleting knives where a design I had in the back of my mind for a while and it took a while to figure out how to put them into metal somehow, they're about 8.5" long with G10 handles. All bolsters in 304SS and the blades are N690 stainless around 58HRC after a double temper.
It was a lot of work to get that crazy distal taper in them, goes from 3mm all the way down to 0.5mm for the last 1/3rd of the blade, nice firm but flexible tips. I really like them, but not exactly keen to make more just right now... I need a fucking break
File: DSC01968.jpg (1.82 MB, 2592x1944)
1.82 MB
1.82 MB JPG
Amazing as always, Anon.

I ground a couple rhombic puukko (my first) and I'm just trying to get the 80 grit scratches out before I heat treat and then take them to their final shape and polish.

80CrV2 as usual.
ok you convinced me to shine em up. could you give me a basic how to? grit levels etc?
Not him, but you go to a higher grit after cleaning the blade free of all 'shavings' of the previous grit (or the debris will act as the previous grit) and then sand 90 degrees to the previous sanding. Rinse and repeat up to your desired grit.
Thanks mate, my lump of 80crv2 is still sitting there all sad in my steel rack and not quite sure what I'll do with it, did manage to find a big arse lump of O1 and some Bocote I didn't know I had though after cleaning up the other day. At some point I should clean up more often, maybe I'll find a fat chick or something wedged behind the beer fridge or something.
The grind on those puukkos is going to be pretty sweet, knock a lot of weight off them without losing much strength.

Generally I'll do most of the shaping and hogging out with 36-40g, bit of refining with 60-80g and the clean up with be the 120g to get rid of any big old scratches. From there I usually go to a medium scotchbrite conditioning belt, then a 180g and 240g prior to heat treat. That should give you a pretty reasonable surface.
As >>1553814 mentions
Change your angle across the workpiece each grit, once you've eliminated every obvious trace of the last one, change direction and go up to the next grit.
After heat treat, usually I'm at 220g- then 360g. From there I'll load up a very heavy cut wheel with an abrasive wax (charcoal coloured), clean it up and go up to 600g, another slightly less coarse buff, same cut wax and 800g, then a final fine cut wax (blue) with a lighter linen wheel.
That sort gives a polished, high satin finish for most working knives which is perfectly acceptable, if we're going shinier I'll run it up to 1200g, then another polish with the blue wax and wheel and it should be fairly close to a mirror, but that's a lot of work and more damn trouble than anyone wants to live with.

You don't have to use buffing wheels and scotchbrite belts, but it knocks big time off the hand sanding process. A hard use, working knife you can just go 120-240-360-600g and it'll be a good finish without driving yourself mad with endless sanding.
For basic hand sanding tools, I like to use a piece of thick aluminium about 1/4 x 1" and about 10" long for the heavy cut grits up to about 240g
After that I switch over to a wood 1"sq block about the same length with a strap of tough leather glued to it for the other progressive grits as its got a bit of 'give' to it and conforms to the workpiece a bit better and you're not taking much metal off at the 360g+ anyway
File: IMG_20190205_200748.jpg (2.67 MB, 4096x2304)
2.67 MB
2.67 MB JPG
Hey guys, first time posting here. This is one of my first knives.
Any advice how to get better fit and finish? Mainly on handles. Thanks.

you got an angle grinder?

for hand sanding clamp blade down to piece of wood. put in vice.

i got a few dozen 1"- 2" x 12" strips of 1/2" micarta ive got shaped into all different kinds of shapes but you use what suits you. tape the edges a bit so your sandpaper sits flat and smooth, and superglue it on

i do the bevels first with a 7 inch makita variable speed angle grinder

then finish by hand

pic relateds
Very nice, Anon. I want to make a folder soon. I hope it comes out half as good as yours.

Can anyone recommend a good book about knife making metallurgy? Specifically, something that has steel and bevel recommendations for choppers, cutters and stabbers, when to blue back, when not to, things like that?
looks kind of nice, but you need to get your lines straighter , look at other knifes and make drawings, , also don't jump grits, and always change grinding direction 90 degree when sanding, also i recomand using a polishing past or 2, to finigh the blade
also your finish looks rather good, but form is weird
File: graston2.jpg (52 KB, 700x467)
52 KB
So I have been commisionned by my chriopractor to make him a custom Graston tool. Its basically a pointed but not sharp tool that with lubricant you dig into muscles to breakup scar tissue. (pic related)

The tools are 150+ a piece and are patented so it it makes sense for me to make one for him, plus I will be doing custom shapes.

I plan to use either a stainless steel or make them out of chrome vanadium from wrenched (I am doing this for free/fun and maybe some free chiro).

My question is, these tools typically come to a very dull rounded edge and are only used on flesh, do I even need to bother hardening?
>do I even need to bother hardening?
The thicker ones whose toughest job will be human scar tissue? No, I don't think so.

The handlebars shaped one? Looks a little on the thin side and might bend if not hardened.
What's the easiest to work with stainless for making an Off-shore system knife and marlin spike that will only be used on fresh water?

BIL races sailboats on the Great Lakes, and I want to make him an Off Shore System.
Anything medical, you should probably stick with a surgical grade- 316SS or 440C
But, seeing as it really doesn't have to be hardened and 316 is already tougher than $2 steak and if you've got 4-5mm thick lump of it, it ain't gunna be bending in a hurry. Just as a side note, you don't get the full stainless properties out of most martensitic stainless steels until its been hardened and I wouldn't consider CrV 'stainless' and what it does have isn't really much better than something like O1 or A2.

Short answer- none of them!
Ok not being a smart cunt, but they're not heat treatable unless you have a temperature controlled kiln. So if you do, then you've got options like AEB-L, 12C27, N690 and 440C. All of those work just fine for a tough working knife, but if you're outsourcing to a place that does heat treating, then you've got to know what they will do as part of their regular cycles and won't charge the earth for. If you want to the look at the powder SS, other weird super steels and stuff they'll generally cost a lot as base material and will also cost more at the heat-treat stage as they run higher temperatures (some over 1100C) and just might not be done properly.
File: IMG_20180107_195120.jpg (2.35 MB, 2304x4096)
2.35 MB
2.35 MB JPG
Yeah, I kinda make everything on the fly, as my plans usually don't work. Fit is kinda ok I guess, but only because I cheated and put piece of leather in between wood and brass. I'd love to make only full tang knives, but I can't drill holes thru metal I have available. Pic related - 1st ,,legit,, knife I have made.
chiropractice is quakery and you should not be enabling the scammer by selling him shiny tools to legitimise his racket

I will take this bait.

First of all, I can tell you are not an athlete and you are wasting your years. If you actually challenged yourself and pushed your limits, you would very quickly realize how chiropractics are vastly superior to the normal medical establishments viewpoints on sport and sports medicine.

Secondly and finally, I live in Canada where chiropractics are tightly regulated for both education and methodology, so I am free of that American south quackery that you are referring to.
Here in the US, it is a legit practice, helping many people. There may be a few frauds, but there's nothing fraudulent in putting bones back in their sockets when they were previously slipped out by however much.
There is some legit physiotherapy mixed in with it, but its fundamental basis is in pseudoscience and quackery.
The basis seems to be putting joints back together and soothing muscles with massage and heat/cold. I'm not sure what is pseudoscience and quackery about that.
they get people by just looking legit and not doing much of anything so it can neither help or make you worse
same with people waving a wand at your aura and such except when the guy is wearing a pointy hat rather than a doctor's robe everyone is much quicker to spot the quack
Fuck off back to /pol/.
File: 20190213_195154.jpg (349 KB, 2016x1512)
349 KB
349 KB JPG
pair of letter openers I did completely freehand for the first time
File: 20190213_195116.jpg (289 KB, 2016x1512)
289 KB
289 KB JPG
File: 20190213_195102.jpg (711 KB, 2016x1512)
711 KB
711 KB JPG
handle is marblewood, 440c
File: IMG_20190215_150609.jpg (827 KB, 2560x1920)
827 KB
827 KB JPG

Very nice for a first first try . Looks like they can be used for much more things than opening letters.

And here is my first try on grinding a dagger. 40 grit rough grind is done , now it's time for HT.
>dagger 40 grit done
i would go way up to 240 grid or so for heat treatment , with 40 grit you are basicly hardening the fucking scratches
here she is lads the final revision

i used an old drill press

i tilted the workest platter sideways, bolted my pulleys to it, trimmed it, added a platen. now i can use the hand crank for belt tension. literally everything is completely adjustable

can run anywhere from a 30-56 inch belt. thats a 48 on there now.

pic related

havent a fucking clue why it flipped that picture and my phones fucked so i cant crop it shorter, apologies
That's a good idea. Saves on the welding. How do you regulate the belt?
that's realy good realy like this one

Yes , what is the problem with that? I have alot more meat to remove after the HT , so I'll continue with 40 and then I'll go up when the final thickness is achieved.This way I'll have room for correction if something warps and I'll remove all the decarbonized steel .

I finish to high grit before HT only If I do stainless in foil.
well just would not recommend that, would work more on it when the material is still soft.. will cost you less sanding paper or what ever you use .
never had that bad a warping
>high grit
well i think we have different opiniof of what is high grit it seems

I use ceramic belts. They work just fine on hardened steel (especially non-stainless carbon steel ) . Also unless you use vacuum oven or salt pot you have to remove 0.2-0.3 mm afrer HT .


read my post again please.

well the double pulley assembly can spin a complete 360 and lock wherever you feel like working, that also makes the belt tighter or less so. it also can pivot inwards or outwards and lock.

and that entire assembly can move both up and down via the hand crank and also swing left and right a complete circle if need be.

i found it easiest to just start it up with the slack taken out, then once the motorwinds up really crank it up to make it tighter.

i trued the drive wheel with an angle grinder while it spun on the motor, and gave it a slight taper from the center out to keep the belt tracking straight
well i just tell from experience.
I plan on building a forge and anvil in the next couple of weeks. My uncle gave me a rack from moose, elk and reindeer. Would that material be good for handles?

If with "rack" you mean - antlers , yes they are good material for handles , but you should know , that thet are solid just on the outside and the core is porous . So you should find a piece with shape, close to the shape of the handle and leave it without grinding too much.

Also when you cut and grind antlers it stinks realy bad.
You can boil then bend antler. You need to do it slowly, only in small amounts, let it cool an set in position then 12 hours later repeat the process. Do that until the shape you want is reached. If you bend it too much too quickly it will start to crack. Once you are good at doing it, you can drill out the center of a piece of antler then open up the hard outer edge like a piece of tree bark and lay it flat for a much larger flat section you can use for knife scales. It is a lot of patient work sometimes. That's how you see some of those really large handles with big antler scales that are bigger than what an antler of that type should be.

>Also when you cut and grind antlers it stinks realy bad.

You shouldn't be smelling it at all because you should be doing that outside or with high volume ventilation like a flow hood; WEAR A MASK. Otherwise, you can get a terrible lung/sinus disease room it caused by bacteria that will put you in the hospital. Plus, your lungs can't get rid of the particles properly and scar tissue starts growing leading to serious problems later in life.

A post full of good information. Thank you.

i'm not sure what i expected from this video, but when i see something about crafting i expect some actual craft
Well, at least none of them are wearing dust masks so at least they'll die of silicosis at some point after making their prison shanks

>I've also spent the last 2 days grinding shit and hand sanding so I might be a bit salty
Don't post shit, please.

Green Beetle does an amazing job at keeping the viewer informed as he is working, I love watching his videos honestly I'm surprised he isn't more popular than he is.
Just subscribed to him. That video taught me more about canister Damascus than anybody else has.
File: koko.jpg (197 KB, 1600x1200)
197 KB
197 KB JPG
reforged the shoulders and tang of the dagger,
well as far as my anvil let me do it ,
Looking better. Nice job.
File: IMG_2069.jpg (1.88 MB, 3648x2736)
1.88 MB
1.88 MB JPG
How would I go about changing this knife's handle? My problem is that the blade doesn't go all the way through in any direction, so I have no idea on how I am supposed to cut that slot
File: IMG_2070.jpg (1.77 MB, 3648x2736)
1.77 MB
1.77 MB JPG
Here is the top
File: IMG_2073.jpg (2.49 MB, 3648x2736)
2.49 MB
2.49 MB JPG
And here is the bottom
Chisel in the gap on the top, blow the old wood off, cut off the pins with a dremel, then drill them out.

Kind of follow Osmo's example here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5mvG5uCdBc4
My problem isn't removing the handle, it is making the slot in the new handle for the blade to fit in.
However, I can't do it with a saw (can I?) because the blade doesn't go all the way through.
I forgot to mention, but I only have access to hand-tools.

use 2 scales and one thin spacer in the middle , the same thickness as the tang. Scribe the profile of the tang on the thin spacer and cut a slot , so when you glue the 2 scales to the spacer , the tang would fit tightly
File: DSC01987.jpg (1.66 MB, 2592x1944)
1.66 MB
1.66 MB JPG
Not exactly knife making, but I'm the puukko guy so I figure these belong here. These are my prototype luthier planes I made today. Wish I had better screws in my inventory, but I like how they're shaping up.

Doing some hand sanding and touch-up tonight. I'll heat treat the O1 blades tomorrow and flatten them after.
Nicely done...I appreciate people that have abilities to produce what they need...
File: DSC01985.jpg (2.14 MB, 2592x1944)
2.14 MB
2.14 MB JPG
Thank you. I'm making a violin as a "rainy day" project and good luthier planes are $100 each. I stared with these two flat bottom prototypes as obviously the easiest. I'll make some concave and convex ones next and probably order some knurled knobs to replace these ugly screws.
File: DSC01992.jpg (1.77 MB, 2592x1944)
1.77 MB
1.77 MB JPG
Here they are cleaned up. I'll finish the irons tomorrow.
Thanks, I will try that

Delete Post: [File Only] Style:
[Disable Mobile View / Use Desktop Site]

[Enable Mobile View / Use Mobile Site]

All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.