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Wanted to make a new one since the last one was pretty interesting and got me into possibly making some dresses of my own. I’ll do a little dump from different SMs that I think are pretty good/decent.

Discussion and posts on projects that you think are good, bad or need some work are welcome.
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>>10465824
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>>10465832
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>>10465833
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>>10465832

This is super cute but I always prefer it when the corset lacing on the front actually laces up with loops and ties into a bow.

Also I follow this chick and she has a similar body type to me and seeing what stuff she can fit with no alteration gives me hope when I find those pieces or similar ones since I've also got a large bust/small waist combo.
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>>10465835
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>>10465843
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>>10465844
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>>10465845
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>>10465847
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>>10465848
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>>10465849
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>>10465851
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>>10465852
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>>10465854
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>>10465857
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>>10465858
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>>10465861
End dump!
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>>10465843
She's opening her own shop, I'm hoping she makes a skirt option of this
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I'm trying to get into sewing and I've heard that bloomers make a good first project.
Does anyone have a good pattern they recommend?
Also, what projects might be good for a beginner? I've heard rectangle skirts, but most of the pics I've seen were ita af desu.
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>>10465849
I hate that sweater
But that dress
Hnngn
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>>10465849
i'm assuming she made the dress?
If so that fit is incredible oh my
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>>10466362
https://www.feorag.com/gosurori/bloomers-pattern.pdf

A rectangle skirt in a plain colour or appropriately sized print is fine, but the problem most people have is that they use quilting cottons with inappropriately scaled prints or fabric that doesn't drape well, and don't make their gathering even. Some of that is part of the learning process though, the first 3 skirts I made looked kinda shitty but I made a decent JSK on my second attempt.
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>>10465851
The cross fabric cutting off mid bust is weird.
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>>10466362

How "beginner" are we talking about? If it's your first time with the sewing machine, rather than lolita, I'd recommend making a couple of pillowcases, tote bags, or maybe handkerchief or furoshiki first to get used to making seams and hems. Plus, learn how to make decent bows with both fabric and ribbon.

Then move your way up to "two-hour" or "very easy" commercial patterns, and at some point learn how to draft a basic bodice block. I think this progression really helps with learning how to fit clothes to your body so you don't end up sewing tube bodices when you're trying to make a simple jsk later on.

If you've been sewing some clothes for a while now, and can do a little pattern alteration to make them fit yourself (most patterns need a little tweaking to their fit), then I'd say you could probably jump in with a volume of otome no sewing with no trouble.

For a rectangle skirt, the key is just to get the right fabric and the right proportions. For the fabric, if you stick to Japanese import, Kokka and Yuwa make a lot of lolita-appropriate fabric. For the proportions, make sure the hem is 3-4 times your waist size, no less. The fabric will practically carry the entire skirt, so as long as you get the right fabric print it's an easy way to get a nice-looking skirt.

I'd rate rectangle skirts as being easier than bloomers due to the curves, it's just that the design and finishing becomes more important because it's a visible garment whereas a bloomers can be half-assed as it's worn under your skirt.
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>>10466651
Omfg hahaha is that a *worksafe* plug? Ahahah
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>>10466651
Just in terms of the rectangle skirt - 3-4x waist isn't always the best measurement if you are on the smaller side. Usually I would recommend for 'modern' poof levels that your total hem circumference be a minimum of 250-300cm regardless of waist size.
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>>10466733
this doesn't make sense.
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>>10465847
anyone know where this fabric is from?
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>>10466752
Nta but what doesn't make sense?
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>>10466362
I've joined the Otome Sewing Bee facebook group, they have weekly zoom sessions where they work on DIY projects together.

I believe last week they did a session on how to make bloomers from scratch.
It's an active community and they're based in the UK I think, so I've never been able to join their sessions from Australia due to the time differences.
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>>10466759
the reason people say to do 3-4 times your waist is because it allows for better proportioned poof. there's no reason to state 250cm or anything because you'd need smaller than a 60cm waist to be less than that by the regular method.
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How do you decide whether or not to line a skirt? Assuming your fabric isn’t sheer, obviously. Normally I always line my skirts but lately I’ve been having trouble finding lining fabric in matching colours that isn’t literal garbage bag quality, and I noticed that barely any of my non-lolita skirts are lined. Most of them are from repro vintage brands so I assume they’re made to wear a petticoat under as well.
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>>10466814
I line everything as I use skirt as a normie wear as well. I mostly use white or black fabric as no one will see them anyway.
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I guess my only question for this thread at the time being is what are the general measurements you should have for an animal ear bonnet (Length x Width)? I want to make cat and bear headdresses to match some of my AP.
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Is there a repository of lolita tutorials available online?
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>>10466776
4x a 60cm waist is still less than the average lolita dress. If you fall within brand measurements or are smaller, then I think 250-300 is reasonable. Any less doesn't fit a petti unless you want it to look like JetJ.
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>>10466854
3 inches by 9 inches for the fur/fabric part if you're doing lace around the edge, 4 inches by 10 inches if you're doing no trim or a small trim. Items I measured for reference in image. Not including seam allowance
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>>10466771
Weird, I can't find it. That sounds really cool though.

>>10466651
Thanks for the advice anon! I can sew straight lines and I put together a couple of very easy patterns as a teenager in sewing classes, so I think I'll pick up some patterns from the store to brush up on and then break into the OnS.
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>>10466908
Oh thanks!!! That's really appreciated!
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>>10466918
Maybe someone needs to invite you in? Or a link to join?
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>>10466814

Honestly, the sheerness and how much work I feel like doing is the deciding factor. If it's a dress I kind of really care about, I tend to line it because it feels a bit more luxe.

If you want a more practical reason, some fabrics don't do well with static and the skirt might start crumpling up by itself. Usually lining fabric are a bit anti-static, so lining the skirt and then putting in thread chain to connect the two should help with that.
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>>10466918
>>10466920

I messaged the host on Instagram who dm'd me a link. Their user is jessica_flapjac
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Any recommendations for patterns/tutorials for coats? I would buy brand but my biceps tend to be a little too beefy for brand sleeves so I don't want to invest in a coat that may not fit in the area that counts. Unless there's a coat out there that has pretty roomy sleeves.
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>>10468403
Get a normie coat pattern which allows you to cut off at the waist to add the skirt shape of your choice, as well as a neckline which allows you to add the collar shape of your choice. Go wild with trims.
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>>10468403
There’s a few in OnS
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The newest OnS is out. It's another compilation from past volumes. Kind of disappointing but I wanted that JSK in the center anyway.
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>>10469136

I like their compilation books since I haven't yet collected all the others; quarantine made me realize I need to see more basics rather than main pieces.
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>>10469136

Where do you buy your new OnS? Kinokuniya near me sometimes sells them but idk if distribution is the same during COVID (American for reference)
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>>10469139

If you have a kino you can get to in person, they're usually willing to order in Japanese books if you give them the ISBN.
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>>10469136
>>10469138
I’ve collected every (non-compilation) volume so far and honestly, there has been so much repetition in the last few volumes that I’d probably recommend the compilations to anyone who’s not a compulsive collector like me.
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>>10469136
Anybody know what’s in this one?
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>>10469212
We don't know all the contents yet, but they've shared a few photos: https://www.boutique-sha.co.jp/22777/
There will be a total of 39 patterns (there will probably be some duplication within this, e.g. counting separately two dresses which are identical except for fabric choice, as has been the case in past issues)
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>>10469139
I got mine from cdjapan but it's been several years.
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>>10469139
Kinokuniya USA has an online store
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>>10468403
If you don't want to make your own DreamV has some cute winter coats that can fit petticoats or cut off at the waist. If you want to make yours I'd say >>10468461 is a good suggestion.
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>>10469613

It only seems to give me pickup options at stores that are not my local one, not delivery options. Maybe I'm using the site wrong?
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>>10469625
united-states.kinokuniya.com
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>>10469627

I had the right site; I realized it didn't show me shipping options until I clicked next lol.

Like for whatever reason it brought up store pickup options to check and I had to not check those, click next and THEN it let me choose a shipping option.
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>>10469139
amazon.jp is still shipping over here too: https://www.amazon.co.jp/%E4%B9%99%E5%A5%B3%E3%81%AE%E3%82%BD%E3%83%BC%E3%82%A4%E3%83%B3%E3%82%B0BOOK-Best-Selection-%E3%83%AC%E3%83%87%E3%82%A3%E3%83%96%E3%83%86%E3%82%A3%E3%83%83%E3%82%AF%E3%82%B7%E3%83%AA%E3%83%BC%E3%82%BAno-8028/dp/4834780287/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=%E4%B9%99%E5%A5%B3%E3%81%AE%E3%82%BD%E3%83%BC%E3%82%A4%E3%83%B3%E3%82%B0&qid=1599557667&sr=8-1
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Anyone know similar crochet/knit patterns for this? I saw it, fell in love but can't find them in the Whital Alley store (plus crap at navigating taobao)
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Is there anywhere that shows what's in last year's compilation? Thinking about getting this new one because I see some stuff I like, but not sure if it's worth grabbing the other too.
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>>10469900
Check out Fabel knitwear patterns
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I'm planning on making my first velvet piece but needle boards are so expensive! I've heard I can use a scrap piece of velvet for pressing instead; do any anons have experience with this technique?
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>>10469926
Nayrt but thanks for the recommendation! They have some lovely patterns.
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Any patterns for a large flat collar blouse like this? All the OnS I own only have the standard collar
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>>10469136
Is it actually full of tissue paper patterns that you can cut out or does it like give dimensions or what?
Anyone have any pics of what these books look like on the inside?
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>>10472197
They contain a large sheet of paper with the patterns printed on in an overlapping way, so you’re supposed to trace the ones you need onto tracing paper. Some of the more simple patterns only have drafting instructions.
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>>10469967
never used this technique but when I wanted to work with velevet I got a sort of plastic mat with smaller spikes, it was around 40 euro I think ( it was made in europe but they maybe sell it in the USA). Iv'e got mine in a specialised modelist/seamstress store but you can probably get it on the internet too.
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>>10472210

Wait, what about velvet do you need spikey things for? I bought some for the first time for a project recently; is there something special I need to sew it?
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>>10472212
It’s for when you want to press the seams. You don’t want to squash the hairs between your iron and ironing board so you need something in between like a needle board.
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>>10472213

Ahhh, thank you! I'll look into getting one before my material arrives.
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>>10469967
I press with a fluffy towel. It's fine to use things other than a needle board.
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i’m thinking about getting a pretty plain pink dress and cross stitching strawberries, then sewing them onto the borders and cuffs! thoughts?
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>>10475975
I'm goth but this sounds adorable. fucking do it anon
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>>10475984
thanks!
let me know if you ever want any cross stitched accessories lol
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The new OnS is here!

https://imgur.com/a/KCwuWNT
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>>10475999
Better than them not releasing any more books at all, I guess.
Thanks anon for the photos.
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I've always been curious, are the otome no sewing books intentionally difficult and exclusive? Like I know they already pose a challenge being in Japanese, but why do they have the added hurdle of having to draft your own pattern, is this typical in hobby sewing in Japan or is it a way to deter those who aren't serious enough and should instead just buy a dress? Why don't they just sell one off patterns pre-cut pre-sized through their websites? Is it targeted at fashion school students? Is that extra challenge something enjoyed there, is it a cultural thing? Especially with the high requirement lolita fashion in general has, that in order to make homemade dressses look good they need a high level of attention to detail, it feels like a lot of hurdles you have to jump in order to make it achievable and look acceptable.
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>>10476883
>intentionally difficult
Not to be rude but are you a beginner? Drafting is a pretty fundamental skill for any seamstress, and they make it extremely easy to draft patterns because they give you all of the measurements. Each book even includes lists of what you need and additional tutorials and guidelines. Sewing in general isn’t a simple and easy hobby, and it seems like that is your main concern from the get go.
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>>10476883
Are you working off scans? The books include paper patterns in Japanese sizes S, M and L. As far as I can tell they’re targeted at amateurs and the instructions even take a number of shortcuts in some places. For example I don’t think I’ve ever seen them use a serger, not even for knits, and fashion students would definitely have access to those.
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>>10476906
Yeah that's a good point. I have the books, have watched videos on drafting, I think it's the starting that feels overwhelming, especially when looking at the visual representations of measurements that look very technical? It's not a strong point for me, but I should just rip off the bandage and give it a go.
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>>10476933
>visual representations of measurements that look very technical
Well eventually if you’re going to stick to the hobby you’ll need to get used to it lol
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>>10476883
i think you might just be worried about your first project not turning out how you want it to be, and that's understandable. your first project is never going to turn out exactly how you want it to be. pick a simple pattern like a skirt and just start!
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>>10476933
i feel you anon, would literally pay someone to do it for me, especially because I need to grade the pattern as well.
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>>10476933
>>10477021
If you’re new to drafting and the language barrier is a problem, it’s probably easier to look for drafting tutorials in English. Once you have a basic block that fits you it’s a lot easier to modify that with design elements from ONS.
That is assuming you’re looking at patterns for the torso. For skirt patterns it might be best to stick with ONS since ‘normie’ skirts aren’t always suitable for lolita, and lolita skirts are pretty easy to draft anyway.
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>>10476883
>>10476933

sorry, but. lol. We just had another anon somewhere in the previous month going on about how the OnS patterns are so extremely basic and simple that they can't figure out why anybody uses them at all. It's surprising to find some anon asking the opposite now.

Anyway, about the patterns. They're attached somewhere to the back of the book, you have to cut them out, then trace the correct patterns out. The only things you ever need to draft are usually rectangles, or if you don't fit the measurements (in which case you're better off learning pattern drafting/dressmaking without using OnS at all).

Pic is the insert of the patterns, and you can see someone opened up their pattern here
https://www.reddit.com/r/sewing/comments/doy4qc/need_ideas_for_heavy_duty_durable_pattern_transfer/
- You do have to trace the right pattern size. This is simply how most Japanese sewing books are made.

If you're worried about starting, There's usually a rectangle or circle skirt in most of the books, that's usually the easiest project out the book. If you're confused about some of the techniques (OnS just kind of assumes you know how to insert zippers, for eg), you can search for a youtube tutorial to fill your gaps.
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So I have a Whimsical Vanilla Chan Skirt without waist ties and it's a tiiiny but big, has anyone ever made waist ties just from ribbons? It's also missing the front bow so thinking of making a matching bow and waist ties not sure what kind of ribbon/fabric to use?
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>>10477101

Enchantlic Enchantilly has a bunch of skirts where they use plain fabric or ribbon for their waist ties, although none of them quite match up to cat Vanilla-chan's style. You might be able to get some ideas from going through their gallery, or just google for their skirts. You could even make two sets of ties, a discrete skinny one from ribbon for when you don't want the bow to be obvious, and then wide waist ties from solid fabric that you can make a nice, flashy bow with.

As for the front bow, I could see it going well with velvet if you're wearing it in colder weather. But, for the easiest choice, quilting cotton comes in a really wide variety of colours, so if you have a quilting hobby shop near you, then quilting cotton + white lace overlay is probably much easier than trying to deal with finding a nice velvet in a colour that doesn't clash.
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>>10477098
Unrelated but what’s up with that Reddit thread? Do hobby stores in whatever area these people live not sell regular tracing paper?
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>>10477113

I use tracing paper, and I still find that it's rather flimsy and tears easily, so I think she was looking for something much, much sturdier than tracing paper. Everything being suggested is much more durable than mere paper.

(Can't say much on the topic itself, I find I don't reuse my patterns much so flimsy, cheap tracing paper is a good choice for me. Even my slopers keep changing due to my yoyo-ing weight. )
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>>10477105
Thank you!! I was trying to find some examples so this is really helpful
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>>10477096
Thank you anon, that really helps. I'm curious why you need to draft the skirt portion as well, isn't there usually a yardage you go by to give you a fuller skirt or is there a specific shape required?
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>>10476883
The level of knowledge expected of hobby sewers in Japan is somewhat higher. In fact, published patterns from most countries outside the US expect some drafting knowledge. The sized, paper-pattern, seam-allowance-included style hobby sewing market in the US is arguably the exception and not the norm.
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>>10477272

nayrt. I think they just mean you have to draft the skirt pattern differently than "normal" patterns anyhow, so OnS would be a better guide for how wide or how flared to make the skirt panels.

In addition to which, there's also some skirts that seem unique to lolita, like the high-waisted flared skirt, or the contrast pleat a la Meta's walolita jsks, or if you need ratios for tiered skirts, etc.
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>>10476883
No, you're just incredibly beginner level.
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Seeking ideas from anons, or share your stories of what to do with fabric you no longer want to make something out of.

I bought some pink houndstooth last year thinking I'd make a generic sweet pink dress out of it. It's a stretch cotton that's only printed with the houndstooth print, so I jumped on it thinking I'd buy it before it gets sold out as it looks comfortable for summer.

That's just barely at the end of last year, except when I went to make the dress I just felt like the pink is too bright and I no longer want to wear it. Whelp, we're coming to the end of the year entirely and I still don't know what to do with the fabric.

Any ideas for toning down pink fabric and making it look less, well, pink? Or is my best bet to donate it on to someone else?
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>>10479224
People sell precut fabric all the time so you could try to sell it off (or donate if you don't mind losing the money on it). If you still like it, but just not for lolita or not for that dress, you could always use it for other projects. Little tote bags and accs or normie clothes are good options imo. Unfortunately the only way to tone it down (which may not even work), would be to wash it a ton or soak it in something to fade the print, which would also fade the black. So you can see how that wouldn't be the best option..
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>>10479224
sorry, >>10479227 again, I don't know why I assumed it's black and pink. Your pic shows white and pink. If it's white and pink you could just wash it or soak it a ton. Sorry, haha. Long day for me already.
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>>10479229

It's white and pink! I briefly thought about dying it with a weak brown solution, which might give me a brown x pink-brown print, or it might not.

Thank you for your input, though. Was trying to see if others people had different ideas before I decide what to do with it.
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>>10479224
maybe do a chiffon overlay or add a bustle? so then it's not a blob of pink
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>>10475975
Depending how confident you feel, you could stitch directly onto your dress if you used either waste-away or soluable canvas.
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>>10479255
You could tea dye it. Definitely do a swatch test, though!
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>>10479224
Applique it and trim it with lots of white. That way it's less of a pink blob. Angelic Pretty did this quite a few times in the mid 2000s with various animal appliques - Dressing Up Bunny Chan, Going Out Chocola Chan and Candy-Chan. They're all wintery dresses and trimmed with fur, but you could easily adapt it to something more like the Baby dress you have pictured. The pink looks quite pale in these stock photos, but they also did the same thing with a pink and white polkadot which was fairly bright, and it still looks good.
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>>10479310
Here’s an oldschool BTSSB dress with a similar approach
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>>10479255
ayrt, that would probably work too! Just do a swatch test like another anon said. Since I'm dumb and thought it was black and pink and not white, I didn't mention that you could try bleaching it a little w/ super diluted bleach, again definitely swatch test that first tho. I also agree with the other anons who said you could try a chiffon overlay or maybe adding lots of white fabric to break up the pink sections! :) All good ideas.
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>>10479276
>>10479294
>>10479319
>>10479335

Just wanted to say thanks for giving all good ideas!

Current plan is to test a little tea dye with it and see if I like the result, then de-design the dress (if the tea dye works I'll do brown accent with it, if not then black accent), and at that stage I'll see if it needs a chiffon overlay.

It's starting to look like I might end up with a nice wearable dress after all, thank you!
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got a few minor tweaks to do, but I just finished this and I'm overall happy with it! debating making a more traditional large bow for the waist, the ribbon bow was cute in theory but it gets crumpled easily.
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>>10479773
This is gorgeous anon, great work! How long did it take you?
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>>10479773

This looks so professional, well done!
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I want to make a red tartan skirt or JSK but I don’t really have any places nearby that carry the kind that’s cotton and not flannel or fleece, any recs for online shops?
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>>10479773
I really love this!

I'd suggest skipping a waist bow entirely, though. It's a very busy print, and think it would be a more cohesive look to leave it plain rather than having a bow breaking up the pattern so much. (Like you have trim around the edge of the dress and the black bodice bits to give definition, but the waist bow is just kind of floating in a void.) Plus the dress is so nicely fitted, and having a bow there kind of disguises that.

It would look really cute to just move the waist bow up where the top star button is!
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Where do you buy good lace? I've been to every craft/sewing store in my town and all they have is that scratchy stiff crap.
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>>10479529
good luck, anon! :)
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Can this kind of lace be tea dyed or do I have to find synthetic dye? I wanted to use it for a project but it's a very bright white and what I'm pairing it with is more of an eggshell colour and it looks weird.
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>>10479925
seconding this! also I love your pintucks

>>10479981
laces.taobao.com or mood fabrics
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>>10479825
thanks! not sure how many hours it took, but I worked on it here and there over the course of about two weeks. motivation comes in spells and I'm a bit of a slow worker desu.

>>10479830
thank you!

>>10479925
you being up some good points. i originally planned to have a simple, detachable chiffon peplum instead of a waist bow, might wind up trying that. like you said, the print is a bit busy and I feel like it needs something to break it up, yknow? that would keep the waist definition in tact as well.

>>10480068
pintucks are love, pintucks are life

>>10479981
I've actually had a bit of luck at hobby lobby with very simple tulle lace, but I get most of mine from QRTRIM on aliexpress, pic related.
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>>10480033
Synthetic stuff takes very little color from natural dyes. It might take some brightness off but don't expect nice eggshell colour.
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>>10479913
Koafabric on etsy has nice tartans
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>>10479310
>>10479319
Speaking of appliques, does anyone know of any good places to find cute ones? I've looked around a bit on etsy but I haven't found many I liked. Should I try taobao/AE or maybe make my own?
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>>10465864
What shop is this anon? I’d love to buy something handmade!
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>>10480104
To break it up, what about some sort of black waistband with the white lacec? I agree that it needs something to break it up but to me the bow doesn't look right. Perhaps it's too thin?
>>
>>10469139
>>10469252
I bought a compilation OnS from CDJapan a year ago and it was easy and cheap, but atm they’re not shipping to the US through EMS or SAL, only DHL I believe
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>>10480548
She hasn't opened it yet. I'm not sure how long it'll be.
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>>10480546

If you could make your own, wouldn't you just embroider straight onto the fabric directly? Or are you looking to attach it to something other than fabric?
>>
Requesting recs for Halloween fabric, I kind of feel like making something, but I can't decide what, and anyway I can't seem to find a fabric I like enough to make a dress out of. Trying to avoid spoonflower prints if possible.

Anyway, feel free to share Halloween inspo or what you're making as well.
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>>10481629
what’s wrong with spoonflower?
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>>10481951

I think they're not that great with natural fabric, but more to the point, they're on the other side of the world right now and shipping is being a pita.

We still have a spotlight and some quilting stores and taobao still only takes about a week, so I can work with it if someone recs Michael Miller or Kokka or some other factory fabric. Spoonflower if I make an order now I'll probably see it next year.
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>>10481629
What volume is this? I'm learning to see collars and I'm looking for dickey patterns
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>>10482156
13
>>
Are there PDFs of OnS anywhere? I'm after the editions with the kimono patterns but it's impossible to source a physical copy of them.
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>>10482460
Which volumes have kimono patterns?

Also, if it helps, kimono and yukata are just a series of rectangles, and since OnS requires a good chunk self drafting anyway, you may as well find resources online to draft to your size.
>>
>>10482517
Indeed. It's due to curiousity really. I've tried to make my own before from the resources online however the collar is quite confusing so I'd like to see it. I was also curious whether it includes guidance for making an obi as I keep wanting to make a furuko obi. I'll have to double check which edition it is but off the top of my head it's 4 and possibly 7?
>>
>>10482460
There are, I downloaded them all a while back. I can't remember the exact site I got them from but I found them by literally just googling otome no sewing scans download. Might've been on tumblr. If you can't find them, let me know and I'll upload them for you later.
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>>10482536
Thanks anon. I've just checked and found a download of 1-7. I was wrong - it's 9 that's got the second kimono pattern.
>>
>>10482460
>>10482521

Just dropping a link for those that want a yukata pattern/instructions. This site has pretty detailed instructions:

http://www-personal.umich.edu/~weyrbrat/Japan/yukata/

I modified it to make long-sleeved yukata (which costs a bomb for premade)
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>>10482566
long sleeved yukata don't exist, you weeb shit.
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>>10482574

lmao anon, that's why I made my own.

Actually saw one being sold on yja once. It had a design of tall sunflowers running vertically, so the longer sleeves made sense as they showed the length of the sunflower stems. It was also priced in the thousand. I cried myself to sleep then made my own. No regrets.

Anyway I just added it to say that I tried out the pattern/instructions and it worked for me, and it was easy enough to understand and to alter. Nothing more than that.
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>>10482583
that's because it's a furisode, moron.
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>>10482566
Thanks anon, but I've got to agree that that isn't a yukata if it's long sleeved.
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How would you go about attaching lace to a pointed collar nameless poem-style? I figure that you would normally gather the lace and ease it so it won't look funky on the pointed area, but I like the clean look they have here by keeping the lace flat. Did they just fold the lace so it would only pucker a little at the point here? I'm at a loss
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>>10482637
in the pic it looks like there's a fold in the lace in each side of the point
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>>10482521
why do you want to make a fukuro obi specifically? you might be better off getting one used off auctions, they get pretty cheap.

I think I have OnS 4 so I can take a look sometime, but if they included any guidance on how to make an obi it'll only be a hanhaba obi, as that's what you tend to wear with yukata. I've worn handmade obi my friend has made, and the only thing I can say from observation is that it's also a series of rectangles, but she used interfacing to make it stiff.

>>10482583
furisode is a type of formal kimono that's traditionally been reserved for unmarried women. they're expensive because they're for special occasions, unlike a yukata which is lowest formality and worn as casual clothes during summer. I'm not saying it's wrong to wear to wear your own thing inspired by furisode but you have to accept it's not something that has historically existed in Japan.
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>>10482682
I found a roll of the perfect fabric on Sou and wish to make it into an obi for my houmongi so it needs to be quite formal.

Was Ons4 a yukata only? My apologies, I'd remembered it wrong then. Still, I'd love a go to measurement list for a yukata and hanahaba obi to hand whenever I need it. I find most things on the internet either vastly out of date or a westerners idea of kimono. I know there's a book by a Spanish lady (the name escapes me) bit I've heard no reviews.
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>>10482692
Aaaah, makes sense!

And shit, you may be right in that it was a(n) (unlined) kimono. Crappy phone pics incoming.
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>>10482823
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>>10482824
Unfortunately there was no obi pattern that I could see.

A hanhaba obi should be pretty simple, idk about fukuro obi though. My best advice would be to either get someone to lend you one so you can study it or buy a cheap one you can learn from (and take apart if necessary).

Hanhaba obi are pretty easy, it's basically sewing a tube of fabric, flipping it inside out, and handsewing the open end closed. And of course, don't forget to use interfacing and press everything nicely.
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>>10482591
>>10482682

Guys, there's a shop that makes them
https://www.sonami.co.jp/yukata-pureta.htm

I kind of have mixed feelings about this, on the one hand, it's nice you're doing corrections just in case I'm a clueless weeb, but on the other -- it's modeled after a real yukata, and, it's made from a bolt of yukata fabric that was bought from a shop in Japan, made by a Japanese fabric company. The reason it's called a yukata is because it just does not qualify as a kimono, the fabric is way too casual for it to be a hitoe furisode. Even if it's a made-up kimono, the best thing to call it is still a "yukata with longer sleeves", ie- furi (large) sode (sleeve) yukata.

Kimono's a living fashion anyway. Last time I was in Japan some kimono shops were trying out some weird two-piece kimono that does not use an obi.

Any way. I'll just repeat again. I only included the information to say I used the instructions and they work well. Even if it was a cosplay yukata, was that really so bad?
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>>10482969
I'm >>10482682 and if that's the case then I stand corrected. I'm not super uptight about rules but then again I also feel it's not necessarily my place to decide (if that makes sense), and I don't feel comfortable straying that far unless someone has already set a precedent.

>Even if it was a cosplay yukata, was that really so bad?
no, cosplay is a different story. Lots of character design ignore proper kimono etiquette, so if you're replicating something a character wears, of course rules are gonna go right out the window.
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>>10465847
>>10466757
bumping this question because I'm curious
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New Otome no Sewing release at the end of November!

>https://twitter.com/fukasawamidori/status/1315928412603576321
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>>10486766
Adding onto your post anon, this was also posted! Looks simple and cute.
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>>10487285
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>>10487285
omg that bag is adorable
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Asking here rather than the stupid questions thread bc I figure you guys are more knowledgeable.

If I bought a dress (poly fabric, OP or JSK), is it pretty easy for a seamstress to turn it into a skirt? How much does that kind of alteration usually cost? I don't want anything super fancy done with it, just a basic skirt.
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>>10487425
so, so easy man. In it's simplest form, they can just chop the bodice off above the waist, and fold the excess down to make a waistband, keeping the side zipper in place. More complicated would be adding a zipper if there wasn't one already, or adding back shirring and having to regather the skirt fabric
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>>10487452
Thank you! That's what I suspected.
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>>10466757
>>10484447
pretty sure its designed and drawn by her as i recall reading that on one of her insta posts
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>>10487425
>>10487452

Eh, that's probably not the way I'd do it, and not the way I expect a pro to do it. The side zipper is a definite replacement, it'll be too long for a skirt after the bodice is lopped off, you realise?
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>>10487647
anon have you never cut a zipper that's too long for your project or do you just buy zippers that are the exact same length as every project and give up if they're not
also other anon literally said "in its simplest form" so they were probably just explaining things in simpler terms for op to understand
>>
>>10487784

You should check out old egl for the girl who did exactly what they described.

Anyway, I only commented so anon doesn't take it to a tailor and then try to argue that she got advice off an anonymous forum on how the tailor should do her job, but you're right, if they take advice off an online forum it's not my problem anyhow. Peace.
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>>10482637
They've folded it twice to get it around the corner, like a little pleat. Can you not see that in the photo?
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>>10487595
No, this first dress was a available print. She mentioned it on one of the FB groups but CBF finding it. I think that if you search for Candy heart fabric on Etsy it comes up.
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>>10488771

I think she said the shop she got it from was out of stock (prolly bought it all) and when people wanted it she used the fabric she had to start her own brand and made one from the simple candy heart fabric and made her own (less appealing imo but still cute) gummy bear candy heart fabric and had that printed and sold those as well. I think she did it with some sort of pre-order system or whatever.
>>
Bit of advice, I'm trying to achieve a pleat like pic related, would this be achieved best on a circular skirt or regular rectangle?
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>>10488830
box pleats, you can do it on both circular and rectangle but i think rectangle will give you a better result for this style, specially if the fabric is patterned. circular you're dealing with bias and hemming it is annoying too.
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>>10488830
If you want the pleats to be narrower at the top like that, you'll need to use a trapezoid skirt or partial circle, and work out on the pattern how to keep the pleats even.
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Hey gulls
I think I need an advice.
I've got a beautiful gobelin fabric, not so colorful as (2) but more colorful than (1), my fabric use 3 or 4 tones of one color.

Now I'm stunned by choosing style of the dress. What can I do:
- really plain dress like Jane Marple(3) and old JetJ(4) - it will make the fabric the main thing
- add little details like trim on bottom and fake lacing(5,6) - to support congestion of fabric
- make some parts of dress from matching color plain fabric(7,8) - to ease fabrics pattern and add color blocking
What do you think?
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>>10489065
I think 3 is nice, although you could add lace and trim at the bottom as well.
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>>10488830
Found this while looking for a different image explaining essentially the same thing. I hope it’s readable.
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>>10489065
I vote keeping it simple but adding some trim at the bottom like >>10489113 said.
How thick is your fabric?
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>>10489179
Well, it's real cotton gobelin and not sofa fabric XD Not SO thick as coat fabrics but almost does not flow, maybe close to medium thick denim. And I think it will lie like pic related *god what a wonderful stupid cats*
>>10489113
>>10489179
Anyway thank you, I didn't think about still plain dress but with little touch of trim.
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>>10489159
>>10488949
>>10488842
Thank you! Looking at the box pleats shape, I was getting confused (stupid, I know). I also realised that OnS 14 has a dress using similar skirt construction so I'm going to try and find scans (last resort buying the whole book)
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>>10489662

Why not buy the book? It's not that expensive and if you're sewing something you probably are spending a lot on fabric already.
>>
I can't justify £30 + for only needing one pattern. Usually I would just buy the book, but there's so much I wouldn't use in there (so much recycled or look atrocious). I'd be happy buying a digital copy of the pattern and instructions to draft if I could.
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>>10490235
I wish they’d do individual patterns, digital or otherwise. I’ve been collecting the books mostly out of a desire to have them complete but there are so many repetitions and super basic or ugly filler patterns in them that it does feel like a waste of money. Maybe if they sold individual patterns they’d be moved to come up with some more interesting designs beyond Baggy High Waist JSK With Rectangle Skirt #12
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>>10490235

Sorry it costs so much where you live anon (I say that non-sarcastically). I have found most of mine secondhand with the patterns still in them (though they are easier to find new than GLB since they're not quite as old I guess) for $25USD or less which I think converts to much less in GBP.
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>>10490235
Maybe buy the book, draw the pattern you want on "pattern paper" and then resell the book might be worth it? I've stopped buying the books because of all the repeats but paper patterns in my country are usually priced at like 14€ for one skirt with some minor changeable details so I've always viewed them as a great price for the amount of stuff in it, especially if one is only getting one or two.
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>>10489662
Honestly, there's probably no point - the drafting isn't that difficult, just draft yourself a half-circle skirt and then add the pleats in.
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>>10489662
>>10491898
IIRC the skirt in ONS 14 is a rectangle skirt.
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>>10490242
>there are so many repetitions and super basic or ugly filler patterns in them
ugh this. I really don't need 4 or 5 separate patterns for nearly identical headbows. Some of their headbow patterns are just the same pattern scaled up or down too.
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Do any of you gulls make your own hats/bonnets? I think it would be fun to get into millinery but I have basically no idea where to start.
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>>10496022
I've only done the most basic "sew a mini pillbox with buckram", but would also love to get more into it
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>>10496022
>>10496079
Look up historical costuming resources. Those are the ones that'll give you the most solid construction advice. Some cosplayers who are actually good at making cosplays will sometimes post advice or have patterns available to use (ex: J. Hart's Edwardian chapeau pattern).
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Not really lolita, so point me in the right direction, but I'm looking to get a decoden phone case and

>They all look like shit?


I can't tell if I'm just unlucky with finding shops or if I don't actually like decoden.
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>>10465847
update on this, she had a whole release. her insta is sleepyriri i believe

production is expected to finish in december but there was a lot of orders, might be longer
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This is borderline off-topic, but does anyone here know where to find old patterns online? My wife has been looking for patterns such as Vogue's children 2885 from the 1950's, and I've looked through all the book trackers I have and all the book archives I know of and couldn't find those old patterns. Is there an archive for those that I'm not aware of? I'm considering raiding an old lady's pattern collection and making an archive myself if there's none. Thanks in advance.
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>>10500696
You can find a bunch of vintage patterns for sale on Etsy and Ebay. Here's the pattern you were looking for, though idk if it's the right size.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/810421893/1950s-toddler-coat-and-leggings-pattern?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=vogue+2885&ref=sr_gallery-1-8
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Just bought an OnS book with a coat pattern; anyone have suggestions for what a good wool alternative would be for someone who lives in the southern US? It rarely gets below freezing but is often below 50 for at least a couple months around the beginning of the year. I'm mostly wondering about good search terms. Also not opposed to wool if it's possible to get it in a form that is light enough that it isn't TOO warm, if that makes sense.
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>>10503065
Get a wool-poly blend. They're generally less warm.
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>>10496022
https://youtu.be/8jJt9gKW6HM This tutorial seemed easy to follow, though she admits she used a fabric that was a bit too bulky
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>>10466397
You took the words right out of my mouth.

Wish there was some more detail shots of that JSK.
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I asked in other threads but didn't get any responses, does anyone have any scans of the cutsew from OnS 8? I got the wrong pattern from another volume I bought from eBay and I'd love even just a photo of what the finished piece looks like before I attempt the pattern. Instructions are optional
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>>10466757
>>10465847
I'd love to know where she gets it produced, or if anyone has any suggestions for printing companies that aren't garbage that make light fabric like this.
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>>10503657
My copy of book 8 is supposed to arrive by end of day today via DHL. If you drop your email I'll try to scan it and share a photo of it with you this week!
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>>10503979
You are amazing anon, thank you!
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>>10496022
there's this tutorial too
https://fuwa-fuwa-fashion.blogspot.com/2017/05/lolita-canotierhat-making-guide.html
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>>10486766
Anyone have any more details/sneaks on this ONS volume? If it's coming out at the end of this month, usually the preorder is up by now on amazon.co.jp
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>>10504530
Finally! Been refreshing every day, preorder is up, comes out on Dec 14.

https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/dp/4834780708/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=%E4%B9%99%E5%A5%B3%E3%81%AE%E3%82%BD%E3%83%BC%E3%82%A4%E3%83%B3%E3%82%B0&qid=1606119170&s=books&sr=1-1
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I see there are some experienced sewers here like >>10466651 .
I bought pic related because I want to get super serious with my sewing . I already made pillow cases, bed sheets, smol pouches and stuff for home use and can make basic circle skirts and basic blouses and trying some basic non lolita dresses.
What fabric do you recommend for practicing? Additionally, where should I buy fabric for lolita clothes or maybe a guide what to use for what lolita related like skirts, jsk or even coats? I don't know where to start with lolita fabrics.
Pls respond. Is the ONS worth buying for the patterns?
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I want to modify my Dreaming Macaron OP into a two piece. Would anyone be able to inform me what material it is made of?
I'm also grateful for any tips as this will be my first time modifying a garment.
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>>10510421
It's going to look like shit if you do
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>>10510432
Cool, thanks babe.
I'm not going for lolita, I'm going for wearable.
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>>10510433
>not going for lolita

Who wants to tell this retard cute jfashion and normie alt clothing exists that they don't have to hack and slash into something wearable?
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>>10510421
if you're too stupid to use lolibrary to find the material you're too stupid to turn Dreaming Macaron into a FashionNova two piece monstrosity.
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Lmfao at all this new fag hatred.
I'm paying a seamstress to make a hime gyaru piece and I already screenshot the lolibrary listing. Excuse me for never working with Baniran twill before.
The sleeves were ripped by a room mate, so go cry over someone else's project.
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>>10510523
Any idiot could have told you an older AP dress was cotton without even having to look it up. Go sulk about your stupidity in the feels thread, newfag.
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Lmmfao, cotton yes, like there aren't 200 kinds of cotton and different ways of working with them. Have you ever sewn anything before?
Obviously I'm in the wrong place for advice, you are a world class idiot.
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>>10510560
Learn how to reply, newfriend. And if you really had that much knowledge about how diverse cotton was you wouldn't need to bother gulls about what material the dress is rather than looking up the material on lolibrary (which if you really already screenshotted you wouldn't have asked about here in the first place).
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>>105105?!?:7568(;
Ah, you incorrectly assume I give a fuck about your opinion.

Has anyone here worked with japanese twill?
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>>10510029
See what you like on lolibrary and check the info for material. I would go with a typical cotton broadcloth that's midweight. I would avoid anything that feels slippery or is delicate like chiffon.

Once you buy your fabric, look up how to care for it and its characteristics to look for when working with it, what size needle to use, recommended stitch length, stuff like that. Over time you'll build up a catalogue of knowledge.

Now that you can make a skirt, you might want to try pushing yourself to make it more complex. Find staple elements you'd like to learn like pintucks or ruffles. Good sewing demands attention to detail and precision. I find what helps me is getting excited about fashion. I keep a pinterest board and then I look for a pattern that's close enough that I could make small alterations with my own personal interpretation. So I think about all the little details that make the outfit. Hope that helps.
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>>10510566
It's twill. Nothing special about it.

>>10506122
Cover for OnS 15, it comes out on the 14th!
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>>10512276
The cover is disappointing, but I liked the earlier previews. Hopefully the patterns inside are relatively new designs!
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>>10512276
Ugh this looks like another fairytale costume edition
>>
For those of you who make your own jewelry, I need help finding the right split ring pliers! I bought a pair recently but they don't fit my tiny 4mm split rings. I feel like an idiot but none of the pliers seem to mention what size split ring they can fit?
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>>10512276
Looks like a costume making magazine...
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More preview pics
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>>10514775
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>>10512276
Another quick look though on video.
>https://twitter.com/Boutique_sha/status/1337351423114137600?s=19
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anyone know where i can buy high quality satin ribbon? stuff thats actually soft & silky. everything at the fabric store feels like junk.
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>>10504530
I got mine today, I'm happy to take photos of anything people wanna see, or drafting pages or whatever. I'll dump some images in a minute here.
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>>10516771
(I only check this thread once a day at best so it might take a minute to get to any requests if you guys have them)
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>>10516786
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>>10516787
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>>10516789
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>>10516790
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>>10516791
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>>10516793
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>>10516800
>>
This book feels really tailored to more classic lolitas and sweet classic. I like how casual and laid back it all looks/feels. I was worried with the costumes but this makes it worth the purchase.
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>>10516803
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>>10516794
This strawberry pochette is so cute and simple. Do other OnS have bag designs beyond plush ones?
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>>10516807
They occasionally have purses, but it's not too terribly common. Miss Carol Belle has scans of all of the color pages on her blog.
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>>10516806
I'd love the pattern for these pieces.

>>10516787
>>10516789
I am sometimes just very much in love with how simple some accessories really are to make
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>>10516795
>>10516796
Oh I actually like these ones. I feel like they would have made a better cover picture.
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>>10516815
Here you go! 1/5
>>10516840
I just loooove this flutter sleeve one, I'm probably gonna make it, sometime hopefully in the near future.
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>>10516881
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>>10516883
3/5
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>>10516884
4/5
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>>10516886
5/5
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>>10516774
The armscye on that princess sleeve dress literally goes all the way down to the underbust level. That's going to look and feel so awkward. Why would they do that?
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>>10516978
Because it's raglan style. That's not terribly uncommon, especially in fully shirred bodices.
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>>10516997
I agree that raglan sleeves are common, but you wouldn't normally cut the armhole that low even for raglan sleeves if the bodice is fairly snug to the figure. Compare with where the armscye falls on this raglan-sleeved high-waisted VM OP.
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>>10516881
Dang you're tempting me to buy this issue. I agree it looks really nice. Would you mind posting the photos of it?
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>>10516771
Thanks, anon! I've bought mine on pre-order, but it is still a long way until it arrives here. I appreciate the pictures.
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>>10516795
This gives me 1930's China vibes, I love it as a much easier-to-coord alternative to Qi.
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>>10517165
It is cute and I see what you’re saying but I can’t see it parsing as qi unless you used some kind of Chinese fabric.
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>>10517280
Ah, yes. With a nice quality brocade and matching knots it could work out.
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>>10516779
omg I love this.
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>>10517154
1/3
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>>10517529
2/3
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>>10517530
3/3
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>>10517530
Oh, well... If someone makes this dress following this pattern, please do post here. I'm rather curious about the sleeves. For me, it would be better to cut them as a spiral and then sew it along the bodice. That way you wouldn't need to ruffle the fabric.
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>>10517529
Thanks anon!
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In the indie brands thread, people have been saying how the skirts from certain indie brands "have been gathered weirdly," which causes the fabric to bunch up or puff out a little at the waist, and I've noticed a couple of my pieces have that effect too. How do I fix/avoid that on my next project?
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>>10466757
>>10484447
Just say you want a Sugary Hears replica and go, lmao.
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>>10517675
Did you mean sugar hearts? AP didn't invent candy hearts nor were they the first to put it on fabric. Joann and other major fabric stores have been offering that shit on cheap quilting cotton seasonally for years. Just because it's on chiffon doesn't mean someone wants a replica of a basic AP allover print.
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>>10517668
Gather with at least two rows of stitches and press the gathers before you sew them down.
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>>10517706
nayrt, but do you mean using double needles in the machine?
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>>10517715

You don't have to use a double needle, just sew two rows of gathering stitches before pulling the threads.

I actually hate gathering so I typically use a gathering foot or what I find easier: a ruffler foot, though it technically makes tiny pleats, you can control exactly how many stitches apart each pleat is and test and make adjustments so you know exactly how smooth the stitches will turn out.
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>>10517715
No, sew two separate rows.
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>>10517732
nayrt, I have a gathering foot and am excited to try it out, I was wondering if you had any tips to get the gathers to line up to your waist size, will there be some extra you end up trimming off to get it precise?
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>>10517783
talking out of my ass since I've never used mine either, but I would think you'd test on a bit of the same fabric to see what settings get the desired reduction. like if you want your skirt 3:1 just figure out whats going to reduce a 30cm piece of fabric to 10cm and use those settings.
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I made this a long time ago when I wasnt as great at sewing, and I'm going to take it in and add a zipper and shirring or both, but what else can I do to not make it so boring? But also not making it impossible to coord obviously. I'll probably have some brown pleats at the bottom to look like candy wrappers or something but idk what else. Also this print is discontinued so any additions would have to use different fabrics.
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Recently got a taobao order in with some cotton strawberry border print fabric and want to make an OP similar to pic related. Anyone know of either an OnS volume or any patterns available online that have similar bodices? I like the defined separate chest and waist rather than trying to get princess seams to not be weird/annoying with my large cup size.
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>>10522108
Just going to say that's not going to look flattering with a large cup size.
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>>10519651
Are the straps halter? While not really it's per se, halter straps aren't that common in lolita so I would change those to be normal if you can (makes the dress comfier too. Personally, I'm not a fan of busy all over prints to take this with a grain of salt, but I think it needs something to break up the business. Maybe a solid brown bow at the waist and maybe where the straps meet the dress? Also, if it doesn't make the resulting neckline too low, I would get rid of the sweetheart neckline since it looks a lil funky. If it does make the neckline too low, you might be able to do some finagling and move the bodice up by adding a strip of solid brown fabric as a waistband. Love the pleats and the print tho!
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>>10522108
Issue 5 and 15 may have something you will be able to adapt, but I don't remember seeing a pattern identical to this one.
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I'm currently working on a muslin that's a princess bodice and am having the worst time fitting and making adjustments while wearing it, any tips? Should I make a dress form instead?
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>>10522108
There aren't any in OnS with similar patterns
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>>10527083
Yeah, or have someone else pin to you but the best thing would be to pad up a dress form to your exact size. There are tutorials all over YouTube. I know it’s more work but it’ll be worth having it to drape and shape patterns.
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>>10522108
The latest issue has one like this, but you'd have to adapt the waist area / use a corset over the piece.
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I have some thick, soft fabric in cream print with brown deer and also plain brown. I want to make a casual dress like the op of Fortune Tarot to break up the deer print with plain brown. Does anyone have any bodice and sleeve pattern ideas? I found this but $26 for one pattern seems excessive (?) but maybe I'm just used to mainstream pattern prices: https://cutsew.co/products/016-victorian-op
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>>10527227
$26 is a lot for a single pattern and I haven’t heard good things about hey cut see’s patterns before. You’d be better off seeing if any of the OnS books have a similar cut or altering a normie pattern.
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>>10527227
I’d go with a regular princess seam bodice with sleeves and a neckline you like and simply add a skirt at the point it hits your underbust (or wherever you want it). Adding a rectangle skirt to a pattern is easy, probably easier than finding a pattern that’s 100% to your specifications.
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I want to step-up my handmade game and start drafting patterns and using dress forms to get it right.

How do you gulls do that? Did you take sewing classes? Try and error? Online classes?

I'm fairly confident of my basic sewing skills, which means I can use OnS or Simplicity ready-to-sew patterns with ease. I don't have trouble with elastic, zippers and making minor alterations on my pieces (aka, downgrading it to fit, replacing elastics and so on). But I have no idea how to go beyond that without proper guidance.
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>>10535921
Includes some drafting texts.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/d3z1814muvtxoyh/AADFuIAoYs9RYEkmaCEVNajDa?dl=0
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>>10536085
Thanks anon, you're an angel and I love you
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>>10516779
Beautiful!
Can you post more of this one?
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A friend send me a pic of an handmade bonnet and I was wondering if any of you had a tutorial or anything for this kind of bonnet? Historic youtube channel arent helping
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>>10536644
If you can't figure this out by looking at it, then you honestly need more sewing experience before making something like this. It's rectangles with 2 rounded edges of varied lengths, gathered together. Think of it like a rectangle headdress with large ruffles on one side.
Please read some sewing books or watch some videos, make a tote bag, just practice a little.





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