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Previous thread: >>9998749
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Is Princess dress sewing or Tomoe Shinohara sewing books worth buying as a casual lolita who mostly wears skirts and cutsews? I want to make a short-sleeved cutsew dress and I'm having trouble with finding the right pattern.
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>>10085000
I visually scanned the first book in a book store and I didn't think it really fit lolita. It was definitely more otome styling, but some items could work. I'm not sure you'll find cutsew patterns though.
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>>10085871
The regimental ribbon jsk and regimental skirt look like brand releases
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>>10085000
Are you looking at making an A-line cutsew dress or one with a bodice and skirt? Both patterns are quite easy to draft and find, what exactly are you having trouble with?
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>>10085000

Otome no Sewing has some cutsew stuff. I specifically have volume 9 bookmarked, it has two different cutsew dress cuts, short- and long-sleeved cutsew blouse, and a bolero (actually not really sure if the bolero is done with knit/jersey fabric, but I guess it's doable).

Posting them so you can see if it's the kind of dresses you'd be interested in.
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>>10086981
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>>10086983
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>>10086984

Last one. Bolero. (Yes, the rest of the book does have dresses and skirts and such. Also has sailor outfits, if that's something you'd be interested in).

Credits to misscarolbelle.wordpress.com for the picture scans.
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>>10086985

A couple of items from other volumes:

Otome no sewing book 3 has a front-zip hoodie with two options, this one is a bunny hoodie, and the other is a sailor collar.
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>>10086986

Otome no sewing 5 has this dress. I don't know if it's a lot different from the ones in OnS 9 -- I actually am on a mission to make cutsew things this year so I bookmarked all of these specific patterns to try out when I get my fabric and supplies in.
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>>10086947
A bodice and skirt. I have trouble with the fact that I've never made a pattern before and I don't have anything to base it on.


>>10086983
Thank you, this is exactly what I'm looking for!
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>>10086990

And finally, this one is tutorial to draft a fitted tee to your own measurements. I have this bookmarked in case the OnS patterns don't work out -- widen the sleeves to make puff sleeves, and if you add a flared skirt to the bottom it can easily become a cutsew dress:

https://madmim.com/drafting-a-tee-pattern-from-measurements-stretch-yourself/

That's all I got, I hope you found something useful.
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>>10086991

Glad to hear it helped! Happy sewing!
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>>10086991
It looks like another anon has linked you the relevant patterns from OnS already - if you want more resources on pattern drafting, I suggest the link below and then a trip to the local library (yes, paper books) and getting a giant roll of butcher paper to practice on. Drafting on that tissue paper shit is awful.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/d3z1814muvtxoyh/AADFuIAoYs9RYEkmaCEVNajDa?dl=0
>>
Are gathered rectangle skirts an acceptable endeavor for a newbie? I've made a few plush toys in the past, but that's about the extent of my sewing machine experience.
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>>10087456
>giant roll of butcher paper
Also gonna suggest a roll of wrapping paper! Get the kind that has a grid on the back. I got a tonne after Christmas for super-cheap.
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>>10087457
As long as you dont intend on wearing it out lol. My first gathered skirt was a mess. I thought it would be so easy because it's only three components and it'll be so cute, but it honestly looked bad.
Practice sewing other things first. I made a few quilts to practice sewing straight lines, I've made normie dresses to practice those techniques like princess seams, I've made headbows and other accessories. Once you feel confident with the machine you could try?
>>
>>10087457
Yes, but don't underestimate how hard it can be to get even gathers and to sew them down evenly. Bloomers are actually easier.

http://www.antipope.org/feorag/gosurori/bloomers-pattern.pdf
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>>10087457

They're a staple recommendation for newbies, actually. Mostly because it's straight lines and you don't actually need to buy a pattern, and once you get the hang of getting a skirt right it's very easy to buy a border print off Etsy or spoonflower and straight away you've got a nice interesting skirt with minimal effort.

If you have issues with straight lines I'd practice with pillowcases and totebags first, until you feel confident you won't mess up a 3m hemline.

If you find it hard to gather fabric, you can actually just make small pleats, about 1~+ cm apart. Make sure there's always 3 layers of fabric for each pleat. It takes much longer than pulling some threads, but it will lie much flatter than gathering, then you can sew it down way more easily.

The thing about gathering rectangle skirts is that you probably need to do it at some point, even if you're using the OnS there's going to be a moment when they do sew a rectangle skirt to a bodice anyway. Just make a few practice pieces out of the cheapest fabric you can find and recycle them if they don't work out.
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>>10087456

nayrt, but wow, thanks for the link to all those books. My local library is somewhat skimpy on sewing books so they won't have these, thank you so much!
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>>10087465
>>10087485
>>10087752
Lots of good tips. Thank you very much.
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I mentioned making this in the last stupid jfash question.
The headbow looks huge on my head and I wanted to attach it to a boater hat.
This is the prototype I have going. The eyelet lace and the red and white polka dot ribbon match the ribbon on the set's wrist cuffs and the eyelet lace through out the whole set.
Im going to make eyelet hooks on the back of the hat to attach the bow to without damaging it at all.
Any thoughts?
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>>10090247
Is that a boater hat or a straw trilby?

Also, I do not think a bow that big will suit being attached to the hat and the ribbon looks like a cake decorating level of quality. I understand what you're trying to achieve but I don't think it works here.
>>
>>10090300
It's a boater. I would burn a straw trilby before wearing it.
The ribbon is a near dupe for the one that is on the AP wrist cuffs.(Also satin with white polka dots that size).
Any idea of what I should do instead?
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>>10090247
im sorry but i love your cat lurking in the background
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>>10090314
Thanks. I noticed her right after I uploaded and it made me laugh so I figured other people would enjoy her being a creep.
She's frequently in my pictures as she follows me around the house and if I'm in lolita, she thinks my petticoat is a good place to hide into.
Even if I'm standing.
She'll stand on her hind legs and try to climb in.
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>>10085880
If by brand you mean ETC or some other otome brand
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>>10090247
The hat looks really cheap, you should just modify the bow to suit you
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>>10090351
Yeah it was a $6 hat from aliexpress that I got for $2...
Oof. I just really don't want to modify brand. It hurts my soul to think about it.
Maybe I'll just tease my hair to the max and get that nice, fluffy look. Luckily I have jew hair so it can go out well past my shoulders.
>>
>>10090309
Okay cool, with the angle of the photo I couldn't tell. Thank goodness it's not a truly (I wonder if any ita has tried a trilby before?)

I'm honestly not sure I'm afriad. Does it really look too big or are you just worried? It took me a while to get used to wearing a bow headband as I thought it looked too big.
>>
>>10090400
>>10090400
I'm mostly just worried. It looks a bit silly imo. But another anon pointed out that its also a hair thing. So I'm going to back come my already thick and wavy hair and see how that looks.
>>
>>10090247
I agree with >>10090351. The bow appears to be too large for the hat. Don't do it, anon! You just need to get use to large headbows.
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>>10090247
Please just wear the bow and learn to do an updo or something to give you volume in your hair. The hat and ribbon look terrible
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>>10090247
That doesn't have the right shape to be a boater. the crown looks too deep and the brim doesn't appear to be wide enough. Plus, it doesn't looks stiff like a boater usually is.
>>
>>10090247


Take a leaf from existing hats, either AP hats or what other people are wearing with their berry prints. Stick with the polka dot ribbon, make a decently porportionate bow out of it. Glue that on along with a bunch of strawberries and cherries (just don't go full ribbon berry mini straw hat on that)

That giant printed headbow and long red tail REALLY don't work, ditch those.

Also I agree with what this anon said >>10090622, but even with the non-boater I think it'll still turn out okay if you can get over your apparently urgent need to shove that giant bow onto a hat that clearly isn't the right proportion for it.
>>
Are there any OnS with pleated skirt patterns? I'm not sure on how to fit pleats around a petticoat
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>>10090778
the first one does, someone translated it too
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>>10090738
I'm just going to wear the bow as it's the one that goes with the OP.
It was less about making the boater work and more making the bow work.
The trailing ribbon is attached to the bow as well.
But either or, I'm just going to try and get used to the bow itself.
>>
Is there a coat pattern in OnS? I seem to remember someone making a VM/JetJ style coat and posting their progress. I'm not sure if it was here or on IG. Does anyone know what I'm referring to? I'd like to see their finished piece.
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>>10092455
There are several issues of OnS with coat patterns and i don't know who was making the coat you mentioned.
But these are the coats I could find:
OnS 2 has a a line coat with fur collar & cuffs,
OnS 6 Gobelin coat with matching mini cape (probably the one you mentioned?),
OnS 7 has a spring/rain sweet style coat with capuchon (hood? sorry Enlish is not my first language),
OnS 10 a military coat
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>>10092471
Thank you, anon! It was the coat from OnS 6. I wanted to make this my next project. But I couldn't remember whether it was an OnS pattern.
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>>10090778
An A-line petticoat under box pleats is usually the way brands do it, sometimes combined with a trapezoidal/flared skirt pattern so that the final hem circumference is above 200cm (often for sweet lolita, closer to 300cm). If you just use a rectangle and are pleating it directly to a fixed waistband (no shirring), the final hem circumference becomes 3X waist which is often too low-poof if you are small (i.e. 60cm waist would only have 180cm hem circumference which looks more like low-poof old school).
To give you an idea of the proportions - this VM dress has a hem circumference of 210cm and the skirt is pleated - the waist of the bodice where it attaches is 70cm.
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>>10095225
This is an example of a pleated skirt that has also been gathered - hem circumference is over 450cm. It fits giant poof and kinda doesn't care about whether it has a cupcake or A-line petticoat underneath.
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>>10090778
Not an OnS pattern, but a drafting tutorial. Idk if you're comfortable trying that, but hopefully it helps a bit.
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>>10095225
>>10095410
Thank you so much! These were a huge help! I've completed regular box plates before, but I couldn't figure out how to fit it over a petticoat and get the VM/IW triangular pleats
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>>10095559
If you want that triangular look that's definitely >>10095410
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Has anyone here had any success with dyeing lace and fabric to match? My local shops have a decent selection of fabrics but the selection of lace and other trimmings is abysmal so I tend to buy those online. However this makes it hard to match colors and I often find myself going from store to store, lace in hand, trying to find something that matches decently and failing. Sometimes I can't even manage to match ivories! Maybe I should just get over it and suck it up but if there's a way to get that perfect burando color match I want to at least give it a try.
>>
>>10096396
Yes but it can be trial and error to get the exact colour of lace. Generally if you can find nice fabric, buy 100% cotton lace in bulk and start experimenting with dye. Rit liquid is probably the easiest to use small amounts of because it's easy to just put a tablespoon in say, half a bucket, and you can mix their colours together to get exactly what you want. Cheeptrims used to be the place to go for that but I'm not sure whether there are other online options now that would be better. If it's a case of getting beige-y tones to match sometimes tea or coffee dyeing is useful but you must set it with vinegar/salt so it doesn't wash out when it comes time to wash your garment.
>>
Anyone knows if any copies of OnS or GLBs have patterns similar to these dresses? I know I could just use a vintage babydoll pattern and widen the skirt but I’d like to know if any lolita-specific one exists
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>>10097304
https://misscarolbelle.wordpress.com/list-of-patterns/
I just quickly looking through the OnS books on ^ this site and found 3 that might work. I personally think the one in 8 might be best since the skirt looks like it has fullness similar to the image you posted.

- OnS 11, light blue galaxy looking dress
- OnS 8, dark red velvet one
- OnS 7, lavender op (green background)
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>>10096396
ooh anon Rit dye partnered with Pantone and if you go to RIT's website and input the pantone # of the colour you want, they tell you which colours to buy and how much to mix and how long to dye it for, assuming you're working with white fabric/lace. I've never tried it myself but my old art teacher swears by it
>>
I’m trying to figure out how to fully line a dress with a shirring panel without too much handsewing. The OnS patterns I’ve seen with a shirring panel only have partial facing and a lined skirt at most, never a fully lined bodice. I know how to add full lining to a regular dress with a zipper without any handsewing. But with a shirring panel where the elastic is encased between the outer fabric and the lining, I always end up with an awkward edge or corner somewhere, usually where it attaches to the skirt lining. I don’t want my stitching to be visible on the outside or raw edges to be visible when the dress is turned inside out.

All my shirred JSKs from IW and Meta have full lining that looks machine sewn with all raw edges elegantly tucked away between the main fabric and lining, so it has to be possible. I just can’t figure out how to do it. Is there a tutorial for this somewhere? I think it might have to be lolita-specific because all the normie tutorials I’ve found use different types of shirring.

Pic isn't mine but it's the kind of shirring panel I'm talking about.
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>>10098192
I'm not sure why you're having trouble with this - you should have finished attaching your lining completely before you create any shirring channels or put the elastic in, which means all raw edges are already to the inside.
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>>10098192

I don't have a handy link, so hopefully you can figure it out from my description.

Make a fully lined dress the same way you would normally, except leave out making the shirring channels and inserting elastic. The "shirred" panel will just be one panel that's wider than it would normally be. Repeat, leave out making the channels and inserting elastic.

When you're done sewing the lining, completed turning the dress inside out (and pressed it properly), then go back and make the horizontal shirring channels. Then insert the elastic. So basically the entire dress is almost finished before you go back to add the shirring.

Push the fabric of the shirred panel towards the middle so that you can sew a vertical line holding down the ends of all the elastic. Do this on both sides.

Now you can either sew the lining and the main fabric together (works better for some fabric, as you'd leave thin fabric graded but unfinished, so you should "close up" the bodice to keep it from fraying), or you can trim the elastic, then sew another vertical line just outside where they end, to keep everything sealed in the shirring panel.

Hope that helped a little.
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>>10097627
nayrt but Holy shit this is a great advice. I didn't know that they had the number on the site.
>>
Is there a scan of the OnS 10? I am interested in the Sweet Lolita Collection but didn't found all of the patterns of the set. ;; (I think there's a scan of one page, the jsk if I am not wrong)
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>>10100753
Do you know the exact patterns you want? I have the book so I could scan some pages. Might scan the whole book eventually, but if you just want a few patterns then I can get those for you quicker.
>>
>>10098216
>>10099413
I guess I'm confused because every pattern/tutorial I've seen, including the ones in OnS, finishes up the shirring panel before sewing it into the dress/skirt/blouse/bustier etc.

So what you're saying is that I should sew a regular lined dress with an extra wide back panel, turn it so the wrong sides of both fabrics are together and match up at the seams, and then sew the channels and insert the elastic last? I still have trouble picturing how to sew down the elastic at the ends without those two lines of stitching being visible on the outside. Do I have to turn part of the bodice inside out when I do this? What I'm picturing seems very fiddly but I could simply be misunderstanding you.

Maybe I should just go try it out but I don't really want to risk ruining a bunch of fabric by being a dumbass. In any case, thank you very much for explaining! I'll get there eventually... I hope.
>>
>>10102405
If you finish up the shirring panel before you add it to the dress, you're going to have open seams on either side in the back, rather than having all seams nicely hidden between the fabric and the lining. I know that's how OnS shows to do it, but it's a very costume-y way to handle the process and does not give as nice quality.

Here's how I handle shirring, very similar to >>10099413:

Assemble the full dress and lining including sewing them together around the neckline, turn right-side out & press. Mark shirring lines using pins or fabric pencils/chalk, depending on fabric. Sew shirring channels, leaving both ends open to insert elastic.

Cut elastic to be slightly longer than the flat panel that I'm going to be shirring. Insert elastic into shirring channels and stitch on one side to lock into place. Then gather fabric across elastic until elastic is at desired width (I will usually mark this with a pen before inserting the elastic into the channels, then pull them out and add a pin crosswise on the elastic where the mark is, so I have a guide while trying to set up placement of elastic between two layers of fabric where I can't really see it). Stitch second side of elastic into place, trim excess elastic and you're done.

DESU the stitching for holding the elastic in place will be visible on the outside of the fabric using this method. It can be a little fiddly because you're working a little blind in spots, getting the elastic into place between two layers of fabric where you can't really see what you're doing, but I find that if I work from the lining side, the fabric is thin enough to easily feel where the elastic is located.

Not sure if that helps clarify at all. If you're worried about spoiling nice fabric while testing out the technique, you could buy some cheap broadcloth or fabric ends and just assemble the bodice back (shirring panel + sides) for practice. Good luck!
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>>10102405
OnS does not do this because the dresses are unlined, which means you use different construction method to a lined dress.

Pretty much what you are describing is the correct interpretation. You should not need to turn anything inside-out, it's just like reaching into a waistband to insert elastic. Obviously you should be pinning the ends of the elastic through the right sides of the fabric when you insert it, but you will be top-stitching it down. I sew down the ends of elastic with the stitch in the ditch method, because I tend to elasticate my entire centre back panel (rather than doing a single back panel and randomly partially elasticating it)
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>>10102405

>>10099413 here (the other commentor isn't me). Sorry for the slow reply, I didn't see your post.

Yes, you got it right. >>10102431 got it right as well. The last two vertical lines will be visible from the outside of the dress.

Here's the last dress I made that did it this way. Hopefully it's a little more obvious? All the shirring channels are horizontal, then one vertical line to hold down the elastic and the second line seals everything inside.

As for the fiddlyness, I think I used basting stitches or pins to hold the elastic in place while I put in the first vertical line. Most of the fabric is pushed to the centre and usually stays there until you pull on the elastic again.
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>>10103274

Oh great. The photo is upright on my PC and sideways here for some reason, I don't know which way to rotate it to make it look right...

Hopefully you're not too confused by the 'vertical' vs 'horizontal' description? You can see the shoulder straps should be at the top and the bottom you can see the skirt.
>>
>>10103274
sauce on that fabric?
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>>10101316
Oh my god Anon thanks! Sorry for the late reply!
Like I said I'm really interested in the Sweet Lolita collection, but I only want the JSK and the headdress.
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>>10103383
I should be able to get some scans for you next week as I’m away from home right now. I have a few of the other books too if you need other patterns. Eventually I’ll get around to scanning all of them fully
>>
>>10103399
Oh okay, take your time! I will check this thread regularly. Also forgot to say this, and maybe it's obvious already but since there are two hair accesories, by headdress I meant the rectangle headdress. ;;

And finally wow, thanks in advance if you scan them all, please share it here if you do! Will keep an eye for it!
>>
>>10103274
Kinda looks like you need to adjust your tension or something with those stitches. Also not sure why you needed quite so many lines of visible stitching to secure your elastic for shirring - it looks pretty bad.
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>>10103366

It came from a quilting store several years ago. Sorry I don't have a better source, it's a US fabric and not a Japanese one if that helps.

>>10103616

Yeah I can't seem to get the hang of using two colours of threads without the white showing as white dots on the red side and the red thread showing up as dots here. Any advice on adjusting tension would be welcome.

Extra lines of stitching -- this is totally me. I played bobbin chicken and lost, there should only be a double line of stitching (as this thread is anchoring down the elastic I wanted to be sure it would hold), but the middle ended up being some extra lines where one bobbin died and instead of cleanly ripping it I just backstitched a few extra channels with new thread to make sure it would hold.

Hope the pic was useful for anons trying to figure it out though.
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>>10104286
Assuming that your machine is clean, oiled, and you have a fresh needle of appropriate weight this is where all the fabric offcuts and scraps come in to play to sort your tension out. I mentioned the first three because skipping stitches like I see you have had happen is very often (for me) related to being lazy about changing my needle, or getting caught on crud in my machine from sewing fabrics that shed. I set my tension based on a double layer of project fabric after I've cut my pattern pieces, but if you want to sew as you go and already have pieces you know are too small then that's fine as well...just don't sew over anything you might need later!
Ideally you should only need to adjust the top thread not the bobbin, and if you're mainly working with fabrics of similar weight there's not a lot of adjusting between projects. I assume it's bobbin thread that keeps showing through? If you're really struggling with just adjusting the top tension and your bobbin thread is always showing through even with the needle tension right down (or you keep getting stuck between bobbin thread showing and loops of thread on the underside), set your needle tension right in the middle and start very very cautiously tightening your bobbin tension until you get that nice, even line up. Like a quarter turn on a bobbin case cautious (I'm not sure what the equivalent is if you have a drop in bobbin though, you'll have to consult your machine manual)
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>>10104300
https://www.superiorthreads.com/education-bobbin-tension-adjusted is helpful if you need to go down the bobbin tension route. And I should have said an 1/8th turn, a quarter turn can sometimes be quite dramatic depending on how sensitive your bobbin case is....
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>>10104300

Oh. We're kind of way off here. First, it's not skipping stitches at all. Maybe the threads look like they're blurring together? Maybe if you point out where you think you see skipped stitches I can take a closer-up photo once I get back.

It's not a problem with the bobbin showing on top, the top thread is also showing below. Basically just really having issues finding the sweet spot where the top thread doesn't show up underneath *and* and the bobbin thread doesn't show up above. If the tension is set any tighter then it's too tight and the stitches will be prone to breaking (among other things), currently it's very much an okay setting, except for the top and bottom threads not really staying on their side of the fabric. I've messed with the bobbin tension before, can't really recommend it for a drop-in bobbin machine, at that point it's probably due for some maintenance and oiling rather than being a routine change just for different fabric.

idk, the machine is pretty well-cared-for, but it's definitely a featherweight budget machine, so maybe this is one of its limitations. It can't really handle thick heavy fabric either.
>>
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>>10104334
Looking at it it might actually be more a feed issue - I did only look at it inline, once I opened it to crudely MS paint where I feel the issues are, it looks the machine isn't feeding the fabric through. Most entry-level machines should be okay to handle what I assume is fairly lightweight fabric - they're usually agreeable with pillowcase/blouse/printed quilting cotton thickness - so possibly your machine particularly disliked the elastic? I guess if you've tried the usual rethreading, needle change, keeping your machine clean and taking the tension right down then a service may be the next best bet. It seems like the fabric should be thick enough for the threads not to show through so my other thought would be that both needle and bobbin tension are too high i.e. the thread is being pulled too much from both sides, if that makes sense.
>>
>>10102431
>>10103148
>>10103274
I get it now! Thank you so much, anons!

I went to have a good look at every shirred brand dress in my wardrobe and found that Meta and Baby tend to have the visible topstitching, sometimes covered with lace or ribbon, whereas IW uses this "stitch in the ditch" method which makes the topstitching nearly invisible. I literally had to sit underneath the brightest lamp in the house and hold the dresses a few inches from my face to even see it. It's not burando magic after all, just clever sewing.
>>
>>10104350

Feed issue might be spot on, actually! This is sewn with the elastic already inside, so while the fabric layers are thin enough, the bump where the elastic is does sometimes seem to get stuck and the whole piece needs a bit of a yank to get it under the needle. I guess we're back to the layers possibly being too much for machine to handle.

To tell you the truth after this dress I just quietly decided not to do the contrasting lining thing to avoid the threads showing on the wrong side since I never could figure out how to get rid of them. I guess a service couldn't hurt, it's been a year or so since it's last service anyway. I'll ask the guy directly about the getting the threads to stay on their side, at the very least they should be able to tell me whether it's a problem or just a limitation of my particular machine.

Thanks, anon. It's always nice to have fresh eyes looking over my stuff and helpful advice.

>>10104351

Glad to hear it, and yes, IW's sewing is pretty awesome.
>>
Alright guys: Simplicity pattern 8444.
It's the closest and American pattern company has gotten to when it comes to *real* Lolita and I don't see any visible problems with it. I bought it on sale before I learned of the rufflecon issues regarding it and would like to use it to sew a JSK that I'll obviously tailor to my measurements. Is there anything I should be warned about before starting? I'm an intermediate sewer :)
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>>10104495
>Simplicity pattern 8444
desu solids are probably going to be your friend. Maybe a pretty wine red with white details or a forest green. or a pretty pastel pink with white details. don't try to go overboard with the prints and crazy colors like the examples.
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>>10104550
I should clarify that I mean a wine dress with white details, or a forest green dress with white details, not a wine with forest green. please god, no.
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>>10104464
It's not uncommon for machines to struggle with varying thicknesses - mine doesn't like lumps of anything at full speed, particularly when I've needed to alter denim (double-folded flat-felled seams are the worst). I tend to use a straight-stitch foot or switch to my zipper foot (rather than using the all-purpose/zig zag one) as I feel like there's less catching under the edge of the needle hole, and I also play with my presser foot tension.
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>>10104553
yeah that's what I was thinking!! I want to do wine with black bows and ribbon on the bodice with a black lace trim to avoid ita territory lol
I was just wondering if there's any serious/ugly structural mishaps in the pattern design that might need to be tailored/remedied
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>>10104771
Going by other people's photos, the glaring issue is that the bodice fit is terrible. The straps look like they are designed to be slightly too long and the bodice appears to pretty much be a series of very slight trapezoids with a shirred back i.e. babby's first lolita tutorial kind of sewing. I'm also pretty sure they didn't include an option to line the skirt which can make lighter fabrics sit oddly over petticoats - even BtSSB, who don't always line their bodices, line their skirts. There's a youtube reviewer who politely phrased it as "wishing the bodice was more structured" - given that it hung off her shoulders like an an elasticated potato sack I think that's a fair call.
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>>10104846
Nayrt but do you have any patterns you'd recommend for a sweet bodice that I could get at the store?
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>>10104863
There is no particular 'sweet bodice' pattern, there's a range of basic bodices most lolita dresses are based off and the substyle most often ends up determined by fabric choice and embellishment. Most lolita bodices are literally "basic bodice with more wearable ease so that you can wear a blouse underneath, add lace". Commercial patterns for similar bodices are often designed to not have a blouse underneath, have a lower neckline and end lower on the waist, and possibly have different strap placement to typically lolita dresses so you are probably going to need to make modifications anyway.

New Look 6390 (View C) without the waistband and New Look 6553 (View B) have reasonable bodices, but the skirts don't look like they'll take a petticoat so you'd need to draft those. The first pattern has the same basic shape as, say, AP's Dressy Time and the second is more like BTSSB's Lace Frill/Florencia jumper skirts.

It's actually easiest in the long run to learn to draft or at least modify a basic bodice block in my opinion - I have the basic burda sloper saved in printable PDF if you wanted to look at that - it is graded in multiple sizes between a UK 6 (74cm bust/58cm waist) and 20 (104cm bust/86cm waist) without seam allowance. The dropbox linked further upthread has excellent resources on pattern manipulation.
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>>10104894
Thank you, this is really helpful! I have the skirt just about done as well. Thanks again for the help!!!
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>>10104584

I'll try the zipper foot, that's an excellent idea actually.

My machine won't even sew denim, it's too thick. That probably gives you an idea of what I'm dealing with. I keep thinking I should upgrade but I don't know to what. You'd think after being able to pump out a few dresses I'd have sewing machines figured out but I'm still pretty lost on sewing machines altogether.
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>>10104495

This one? Err. It gets roundly trashed almost every time for being plain ugly and designs so awful you might as well post yourself to the ita thread while holding the pattern right now.

Sorry anon, you're better off taking this >>10104894's advice and finding a different pattern.
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>>10105718
Second hand vintage machines can be an excellent choice as most of them are workhorses from a time when women sewed their own clothes and the clothes for the entire family, so were designed to be in near-constant use. The tradeoff is usually a lack of features like single-step buttonholes, adjustable speed and fancy stitches. Newer second hand can also be worth waiting for if you can try the machine before handing over money - so many people think they want to sew, make one pillowcase or screw up their threading/tension, and then have a nearly new machine sitting around just waiting for you to come buy it for half the price they paid. There's definitely a shift in the type of machine that happened around the time of mass manufacturing/faster fashion/widely available contraception/women working, meaning that sewing has actually become a more expensive hobby rather than economical or even necessary.

If you're looking at new, pretty much all new entry-level machines seem to have the same issues with durability compared to vintage ones, so just make sure you have a warranty period! I've heard the most negative things about new Singers (pretty much most people hate them since 1990), so would probably avoid them. I used to own the Janome 2200XT which was fine hemming my jeans and managing midweight twill, velvet and fur, but I did only have it for a year as I was on exchange in the UK. Brother is the most popular but some of their computerized machines have issues. I think Bernina is still good.

I currently have a late '70s Brother and the 3034D overlocker, both of which I'm pretty happy with. The only reason I would consider upgrading at this point would be for a single-step buttonhole.
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>>10105745

Being located in Asia probably changes that advice a good deal. I actually had an older machine that couldn't be repaired, the only people who said they could, quoted arms and legs just to get the machine back into running order. I'm just now coming to the conclusion that the kind of vintage secondhand where the machines were workhorses probably weren't imported into my country much to begin with, so I'm probably stuck with the second generation of expensive-but-cheap hobby machines.

Warranty period is a good thought. Support for Janome isn't that strong in my city (I could drive a few hours into the next city, though). You're spot on with the computerised Brother machines, a friend has one of their embroidery machines and it seems rather delicate, I have the 3034D overlocker and it's pretty solid. I think the choice just boils down to these two brands (other brands have even less after-sales support) , I just need to figure out which ones of their newer, non-computerised machines isn't a complete dud or featherweight.
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>>10105740
It’s a shame that none of the finished pieces come out nice, because it’s clear from the model pictures, fabric choice, accessories etc. that the designers actually put time and research into creating a lolita look, more than I’d expect of an American brand. The pattern designer’s pictures wip photos look ok, anyway — is it possible that the people who tried this just don’t have the skills and fabric taste for it? Or that it will only work for a particular body type?
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>>10105768
Ah yeah, depending on where you are either those machines are being hoarded in old aunties' houses or have been dumped long ago. If Brother is the closest then go with that - probably the main things you want will be single-step buttonhole (seriously life-changing stuff, the number of times I've struggled with the 4-step one is enough to have put me off making shirts) and not computerized, then it's really just down to the price.
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>>10105797

If you look in the ita thread, there's always people who "do their research" and then proceed to ignore everything doesn't confirm their already existing bias, and then are still surprised when someone tells them their ugly outfit is ugly. Humans have a surprising ability to rationalise away anything they don't like, flat earth conspirators being a great example of how far they can go with that.

As for your pic, leaving aside that the colours are too bright and they've mistaken brightly childish cartoons for kawaii pastel aesthetics, it's the back of the dress and not the front, because the front of the dresses are all horrible clusterfucks. You should really pay more attention to how nobody can make a decent-looking dress from the pattern, it's impossible because the designs themselves are ugly to begin with.

I kind of get that you might be invested if you've already bought the patterns, but really, save yourself the heartache and sew something else. Anything else. I kid you not, I've seen single-fabric versions of these dresses posted to the ita threads. There really isn't anything you can do to improve the patterns other than not using them.
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>>10105797
Well the fact that the bodice is pretty much a shirred rectangle means it rides up awkwardly under the armpits if you try to have the front at the "correct" height, and they haven't actually shortened the bodice length to sit on the true waist (see crude lines in pink where I think the actual waist would be on a person and where the arm would be). It looks good on mannequins....
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>>10106009
Thanks for all the info guys, I think I'll just use the pattern for the skirt and the lace-up front of the bodice and then draft my own bodice. I made a pattern for my prom dress that included princess seams a while ago and I'll just use that. Thanks guys!!
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>>10105803

One step button, can sew heavier fabric, warranty period/easier to service. Thanks, anon. This is a way better checklist than looking at some blog's list of models that aren't available locally, or having the luck dealer try to talk me into buying an industrial machine.
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>>10106036
If you ever have a dealer talking you into an industrial machine, run far away. Industrials do one job and do it well, but you'll need multiple machines and a decision you make not one that a dealer talks you into. Fashion-incubator has a brief blog series on sewing with industrials if you think that may be something you want to look into - the comments are as useful as the actual blog itself, but bear in mind that it's U.S. based so the comments about affordability are probably not going to apply.
https://fashion-incubator.com/industrial_sewing_machines/
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>>10106019
Make sure you have enough space under the armpits - with puff sleeved blouses you may want more "armhole space" than you had with the prom dress. This dress is completely shirred including straps so will fit differently to half shirring, but I feel that this photo definitely illustrates some of the issues around the armhole area of the simplicity pattern.
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Would it be considered tacky if I used my handmade lace on jsks and blouses I make?
I recently inherited my great aunts bobbin lace set, and taught myself the craft. And thought it could be used for such grand purposes as edging to my creations
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>>10106695
I don't think it would be tacky at all, especially if the lace suits the pieces you're making.
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>>10106139

Yes, that's the reason I noped out of a new machine 2 years ago. Figured I'd figure things out elsewhere and then go back once I knew what I wanted.

Ironically I was following fashion-incubator for a bit but she's way too industrial-focused for me. There was a few months when she went off describing a lot of very technical details and I realised it was (a) way over my head (b) way too specialised to ever be anything I'd actually use. It's useful blog to drop by for some insight into how burando is probably made, though. I think she's also the one who clingwrapped her son as some kind of pattern-making experiment, which was entertaining.
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>>10106723
I think the comments are usually where the gold is for home sewers, and also entries on how you should be tracing/cutting patterns and the zipper tutorial.
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>>10104350
This happens to me when I yank the fabric rather than guide it (which often happens when you're dealing with thick/gathered fabric that might snag on the foot).

After only making dresses and skirts lately I'm finally starting on some blouses, which is what my wardrobe really needs. Anyone else been working on blouses lately?
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>>10106877

Yup, that's why I prefer to drop by her blog occasionally now, rather than following it with an rss reader. Gives time for the comments to build up.

>>10106877

I try, but sometimes something just gets stubborn and won't glide gracefully under the foot. I'll try the zipper foot method next time, sounds like it'll work better.

I'm skipping straight to cutsews and pullovers, does it sound odd that I never really like blouses? I spend a lot of time thinking up ways to sew up stretchy stuff so it looks like blouse but feels like a t-shirt.
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>>10107138
>>10107143
I hate working on blouses because it's like...pretty much as much time and fabric with more fiddly pieces than a simple dress or skirt, but I can get a decent second hand brand blouse that fits nicely for $30+shipping v.s. people wanting $60+ for a main piece like a skirt/dress. Cutsews are totally worth making though! Generally simpler designs with less pieces/buttonholes/time, and they're hard to find in good condition second hand.
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>>10107163
>>10107143
I really want to make cutsews, I love more casual comfortable pieces! Figured I should use up some of my fabric stash before going to buy some jersey fabric, though. I'm just making some super simple blouses, although I should slap some lace etc to pretty them up a bit because I qant to wear them with my skirts. I'll be cursing myself when I get to the buttonholes, though.
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>>10107176
You can use woven fabric for collars/bibs and do the rest of the garment in a knit if you already have stuff you need to destash...
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>>10092455
Was it wine and cream? I've been working a MM inspired coat on and off for the last year.
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What sites/places do you folks use for finding fabric?? Most places I've tried looking either have bad quality fabric or just ugly choices
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>>10106707
I've learned how to make a heart edged lace, so I believe it would be appropriate for most styles. It's also easy to incorporate other shapes like crosses. I'm glad it's not a terrible idea!
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>>10107232
Which country are you in, where have you been looking and what sort of fabrics are you looking for? I can tell you now that it's nearly impossible to find gothic print fabrics that aren't bank-breaking - even patterns like jacquard and brocade can be expensive. For patterns often people will look at Japanese sites which sometimes stock similar fabrics to what the Japanese brands are using.
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>>10108304
I'm in the UK, I've been looking places like etsy, fabricland, plushaddict (who do sell quality fabric just not stuff really meant for clothing) and a few other sites I cant remember off the top of my head.
It's a shame gothic fabrics cost so much but I'm more looking for classic themes, such as velvet and stuff like jacquard a d brocade would work nicely but I haven't been able to find much.
I don't really mind spending much on fabric as long as its actually the stuff I'm looking for, so many places online take awful photos of their fabrics
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>>10108366
Your best bet is a trip to Goldhawk Road Market and Goldhawk Road in London. Failing that I think it was Croft Mill that I ordered from a couple of times and was happy with (also, they do samples for postage cost alone, so if you can't tell from photos you can just ask for samples)
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>>10108403
Oh wonderful thank you! I've been thinking of searching for places in London but didn't know quite where to look so thanks again for the advice
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>>10108366
I've just seen that you're in London but as a general point - Abakhans in Manchester is brilliant for fabric.
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>>10108995
Make sure you give yourself at least half a day or even a full day to properly look, as many of the stores and stalls have similar fabrics but different pricing, and a lot of cheaper places you have to really browse through to find things as they aren't all perfectly laid out for you. You can usually haggle for longer lengths of fabric or minor flaws, many sellers will match or beat someone else's price from the shop down the road (and if not, just walk back down the road). There are also some shops that sell nice notions and fabric in the Portobello Rd area but are more expensive.
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>>10109072
Ah that's cool to know, I dont usually haggle but if its an option to get a few quid off then I'll for sure give it a go. I'll probably head down there after payday and see what I can find
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>>10109013
Not in london but close, I do have family who live in Manchester so I could always pay them a visit and go check out the area
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Tfw you're a tall lolita and in making your own blouse still end up with slightly too short sleeves.... I'll just add more lace to the cuff and it'll be cute, but honestly what an idiot.

>>10107197
Oh, duh! That's a great idea.
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>>10109013
england is pretty small tho isn't it? Wouldn't any one city be only an hour and a half away from another? Isn't there an extensive public transit system including trains? Are the trains cost prohibitively expensive?

Where I live everything is spread out, the majority of people (even the very poor) drive or take transit for at least an hour just to work daily
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>>10111457
Yes the UK is pretty small but its about the same size as Texas so getting to places can still take about 10 plus hours.
Trains are ridiculously expensive at the moment, a train from South East England to the south can cost around £60 (around $80) for a 5 hour journey (not accounting for the usual delays). Coaches are an option and are usually cheaper but take longer, so that 5 hour journey gets turned into a 8 to 9 hour journey.
You also have to think that many of us (including myself) the closest thing next to me is feilds and a few villages not cities, I don't even live in a city myself just a big town.
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>>10111540
Oops I mean mid East England not South East
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I'm not sure what this cut is called. but does anyone know where I can find a pattern like these?
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>>10111540
>I don't even live in a city myself .
my dream.
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>>10111540
Uh, no? Texas is three times larger than the UK.
I love it when europeans grossly overestimate how large their countries are comparatively to the US.
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>>10111741
It doesn't help that many maps portray Europe as waaaay larger then it actually is.
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>>10111736
I think ONS 13 had a similar pattern. Most people call it a sack cut or muumuu but I don't know if there's a proper name for it.
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>>10111736
Shift is the western name for this style, I think. Maybe "babydoll shift" would be a place to start hunting?
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>>10111736
Trapeze dresses. Because its such a loose fit, its really a matter of deciding skirt volume and going from there.
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Does anybody know what kind of stitch this is? I'm talking about where the frosting is connected to the donut and where the two halves of the donut meet.
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>>10113119
It looks like a blanket stitch!
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>>10107438
Post pic! This sounds charming!
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>>10113121
thank you!!
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Could anyone help me?
I'm trying to figure out how this kind of skirt is made:
a) a flared skirt that's pleated
b) a flared skirt with insertions
c) rectangle with pleats

I'm imagining it's probably a flared godet cut with insertions, but i'm not entirely sure.

It's Riverius Mini Skirt (リヴェリウスミニスカート ) by BOZ, btw.

Thanks in advance
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>>10114312
Box pleats.
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>>10114312
There's this pic of the back of the skirt on their blog and it shows a vertical sewing line on it, so I'm backing my assumption that it has insertions based on it.
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>>10114316
Oh, I see! Thanks for answering, anon!
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>>10114312
I'd go for a circle skirt with box pleats, like this one.
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>>10114312
I agree with >>10114329. The vertical line in >>10114319 could just be because circle skirts aren't always one single piece of fabric, and of course you'd want to hide the vertical seams in the pleats to make it look cleaner.
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I already asked this in the apron coord thread, but I might double my chances if I ask here as well. Can anyone link me a pattern for an apron with a bib or tell me where I could find one?
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Does anyone know what kind of lace this is? Meta uses it a lot and it kinda looks like.. cotton raschel? Is that what it would be? It's not torchon or anything like that, and honestly seems like a high quality cotton raschel, but searching online for anything like that turns up nothing.
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>>10115117
Yep, I have it on an old Meta skirt as well and that's what the label said.
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>>10115117
Raschel refers to the type of machine it is knitted on, not the material.
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>>10115117
Yeah, it's just good quality raschel lace.
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I have Sweet Cookies Alice OP and I've decided that I want to alter it because I don't like full shirring but the JSK isn't any better looking. What designs do you think are possible to do to the bodice? What should I look out for when altering?
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>>10118607
Is it just the shirring you don't like or also the sleeves? You can do a lot with the front of the bodice (I assume you intend to leave half shirring as there's no zip) but bear in mind that there may still be stitching lines and variability in the fabric once you remove the elastic. The bodice on the OP is quite short so you are going to be limited by the length, and if you remove the sleeves you will also need to work out how you will finish any raw edges.
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>>10111736
The first three are trapeze
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>>10114746
Try looking up "pinafore apron" that should bring up a lot of options.
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How important is lining? I'm making something for myself that I don't plan on selling and kinda don't want to go out and buy lining since I live a bit away from the closest fabric store and I think my fabric is heavy enough anyhow
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>>10122978
I add lining to non-summer pieces and for a better finishing-feeling, but just that. If you're not going to sell it and the fabric isn't transparent, feel free to drop it.
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>>10122978
Well, it depends what you're making. If it's a jacket or coat, lining is generally more important so that it's easier to slip on and doesn't catch on your clothes underneath. If it's a dress or skirt you can always just face it. I tend to line cottons that might 'stick' to a petticoat/my legs/ride up, but it just depends on how your fabric behaves.
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I bought a bunch of sparkly fat quarters in several shades of lavender. What should I make?
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What should I use to line chiffon? Is cotton okay, or go for the silk approach like liz lisa pieces? It's going to be a summer dress
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>>10122912
thanks anon!
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>>10124826
for a summer dress cotton will be cooler. Keep in mind that chiffon is polyester and it isn't going to breath very well regardless.
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How much do you usually spend on making a full main piece, skirt or jsk?

I keep wanting to move on to making a skirt but the price of all the fabric, trim and other things are deterring me. I keep thinking it would be the same cost to just buy a secondhand brand skirt.
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>>10125258
Obviously yes. If you’re looking for an inexpensive option then buy secondhand. You should be sewing your own lolita if you’re already talented at sewing and want to make something in a style/colour/size you can’t buy, using high-quality materials. It’s not going to be cheap.
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>>10125258

You can get kona cotton in solid colors at Joann’s for $8.99/yd. Kona (or supima) are the only cotton solids they sell that are good enough quality for lolita. They often have sales for 40-50% off so let’s assume you get it for $5/yd.

It takes around 2 yards to make a gathered rectangle skirt with pockets and a waistband. If you want extra fullness, plan for about 2.5. Trim will double or triple the cost of your garment pretty easily if you’re not careful, so for people on a budget I recommend embellishing with the fabric itself. A ruffle at the hem and a bow at the waist band will make the skirt undeniably lolita without breaking the bank. Add another 1.5 yards for the embellishments. You can quite easily make a lolita skirt for $25 or so. For a little more, you could certainly get a second hand brand skirt, but you run the risk of not getting exactly the what you want.
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I made a jsk for under $27 once. $17 for 3 yards of Kona cotton, $8 for 3 yeards of lace and $2 for ribbon. Used elastic I already had at home for shirring. HOWEVER it took forever to make because I made sure to stalk the sales. Sewing lolita on a budget takes time.
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>>10125341
uh. no. kona is nice for quilts and maybe a blouse, but not a JSK or skirt,
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>>10125763
pics?
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>>10125785
I'd love to hear your reason for why and what fabrics you would suggest instead.
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>>10125785
>>10125821

Kona is completely fine for a jsk or a skirt. It’s thick enough not to be transparent, it’s got a smooth finish, comes in appropriate colors, and has decent body. I’m actually surprised you’d recommend it for a blouse as the one place I don’t feel it shines is when making sleeves. The constant movement at the elbow will cause wrinkling over a long day.

Of course there are better cottons in the world, but it’s perfectly nice for a lolita on a budget.
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>>10126070
I completely agree that kona is fine for a JSK. I was asking them why they believe that it isn't and what fabrics they would reccomend instead.
For my personal tastes kona is too stiff for a good blouse which I prefer to be quite light. It does however hold good structure for a JSK.
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Total newb here. Is it considered replica if you embroider your handmade accessories to match a print/pattern for personal use? I really want to make a matching hat for my dress but don't want people to get mad at me for wearing replica to a meetup. (It's not something offered by the brand or I would've just purchased it.)
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What's the best way to add a simple design to some tights/stockings? I want to add a silver cross on the shin/ankle of a pair of black stockings I have.
Would an acrylic paint + stencil work better or would an iron on patch work better?


>>10126472
This would not be a replica in the least, especially if youre not outright copying an existing design. Most people a the meet would probably like your hand made hat.
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>>10126564
You might want to buy an agent that will mix with your acrylic to make it so you can paint on fabric. If you use straight acrylic, it will crack and stretch because of the movement of the material it's been painted onto. That, or just buy fabric paint. Screen printing if you wanna get intense lol
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>>10126334
Nayrt, but I think the drape on kona is terrible. But maybe that's just me.
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>>10126640
Even better idea- my best friends mum has an embroidery machine. I wonder if I give her some money and buy the thread myelf, she could do it.
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>>10126733

I thought that was why other anon didn't like it for a blouse. For a jsk where the bodice is pretty structured and you want a poofy skirt anyway, I think it's not really necessary to get the silkiest slinky fabric you can get your hands on.

(nayrt as well)


>>10126564
>>10127212

Wouldn't you need a way to keep the tights open while it's hooped up and being sewn? Or are you planning to embroider the cross first then sew up the tights later?
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>>10126564
how about embroidery? Also, to do anything, You can put a piece of cardboard or a tube in the stocking about the width of you leg to make up for the stretching. I don't think ironing nylons/stockings would work... they'd melt.
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>>10126733
Agreed, even with flatlining to help it sit better over petticoats it still isn't great.
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>>10122978
I tend to line bodices but not skirts. I'm a big girl and I like the extra stability, plus it smooths out any blouse/bra/undergarment lines. I've had bad luck lining skirts, I think it makes the garment too "heavy," and if the fabric is a little on the sheer side, I'll wear an underskirt.
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>>10127471
But that's exactly why I think anon mentioned why it's tolerable for a blouse. It's a bit too stiff to drape well for skirts, but blouses have so many details you don't need to worry about drape. The most you'd worry about is wrinkles, but that's pretty normal for any cotton blouse.
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>>10127696

You don't need great drape for a skirt. Most of the usual varieties of lolita skirt -- rectangle, flared, pleated, box pleated A-line, tiered -- they've been made from even heavier, less drapey materials such as thick cotton twill, suiting material, etc. Weigh down the hem of the skirt with some trim or heavier lace and it'll stay put just fine.

Blouses would depend. It's really not great if one of your many details is ruffles, because you end up with stiff ruffles sticking out, this was always one of the hallmarks for judging the cheapness of lolita blouse for me. Then there's the issue of blouse cuts/use, if you do a fully shirred blouse and then layer it under a jsk then a stiffer fabric would look bulky. Or maybe it's a newbie using a blouse pattern forgetting to check the measurements properly, something that's stiff would show the pattern not fitting well whereas something drapey would still drape over the wearer's body.

I guess kona could work for a blouse, but generally I'd suggest gauze or broadcloth, or maybe even just cutting all the pieces on the bias for better drape/stretch (assuming we're sticking with cotton).
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Do pettis have to be tiered to work well? I got 9 yards if super stiff tulle and basted it to make a gathered skirt and it seems to be fine for a cupcake-shaped petti
Am I just being lazy?
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>>10128366
Tulle is not really a good choice for a petticoat, especially hard tulle. It’ll go flat after only a few wears and I find it to be rather scratchy. Chiffon is probably best, but I like organza too.

Yes, tiers are necessary to get the right shape. Two tiers for a-line, three for cupcake.
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>>10128366

Old school era petticoats were stiff tulle. On egl livejournal you can still find some really old posts/comments that tell you to dry the petticoat over an open umbrella and then apply starch, after the petticoat has softened up and lost its stiffness. You do end up having to restarch it every time it loses its stiffness once you wash it, though. Bloomers cover your legs to help with the scratchyness of it.

If it works for you, then stick with it until it doesn't, I guess.

The point of having tiers it to be able to sew progressively more fabric with each layer. So for eg your lower layers might be two layers of 10 yards of fabric sewn to an upper layer that's only 3 yards wide, which is easier to gather to a(n elasticated) waistband that's only 1 yard wide. That way you have way, way less bulk at the waist to make you look fat, less bulk at the hips, and more poof at the bottom of your skirt to better achieve the bell shape. Plus it's usually easier to gather less amounts of fabric rather than trying to pile on 5 times the fabric onto a single yard waistband.
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>>10128576
>>10129676
Cool thank you!! Seeing as I already bought the tulle on sale, I'll make a 3-tiered petti and starch it when it seems like it's starting to loose its poof, thanks!!
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>>10130147

There's a hybrid tulle-organza-broadcloth petticoat in Otome no sewing vol 1 that someone translated into English here:

https://fuwa-fuwa-fashion.blogspot.com/2018/09/otome-no-sewing-book-1-english.html

Might help you or other anons looking to make their own things
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This is probably a stupid question, but here goes.
Is there a difference between patterns designed for woven fabric and those designed for stretchy knit fabric? If I have a basic bodice+sleeve pattern that fits me perfectly with woven fabrics and a regular stitch, can I use the same pattern with knits and a serger?
I want to try making a cutsew dress but am not looking forward to redrafting a new pattern for my stupid slenderman measurements from scratch.
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>>10131303

Knits stretch, so they're generally made with negative ease (ie- cut smaller, while non-stretch fabric patterns are made to be bigger than you.) Patterns made for stretch knits also tend to omit certain shaping like princess seams, relying on the stretch instead.

The bodice mentioned in >>10086993 doesn't seem too hard, you could probably draft that up in a couple of hours then add a flared skirt and use existing sleeve patterns for it.
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Did Moitie ever give patterns to GLB or OnS?
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Is there a beginners guide for handmade?
How do I know which fabrics drape well?
Where do I find nice fabric if I live in a small Euro villag?
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Where do brands get their fake flowers? I've been trying to buy black roses for a hair comb, but everything I've found (both on the internet and in home deco stores) just looks awful.
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>>10133101
are there any wholesale florists near you? what about wedding boutiques? often they have pretty good looking fake flowers
hell, you might want to ask an interior designer if there are any near you
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https://lolita-handbook.livejournal.com/1955.html
http://lolita-tips.tumblr.com/tagged/sewing
https://egl.livejournal.com/15957078.html
https://www.wunderwelt.jp/libre/en/13339/
there I spoonfed you, happy?
also try sticking to cotton unless you know what you're doing
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>>10133101
look for "real touch" flowers, they don't get frayed edges and have a sort of rubber coating that gives them a realistic lustre.
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>>10133101
I've ordered from Odakaya's online shop before - you need a re-mail or shopping service, since they don't ship internationally, but their velvet flowers seem to be the same as the ones VM and other brands use: https://shopping.okadaya.co.jp/shop/c/c1072/
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>>10124826
I have a chiffon dress lined with cotton and while it is comfy, the cotton wrinkles more than the chiffon and shows through the dress.
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>>10133185
>>10133178

holy shit this helps so much. I struggled with the same issue but never realized what I was doing wrong.
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>>10133159
I haven't seen either one of those around, but I'll have to take a look, thank you!
>>10133178
>>10133185
I might try this first though, since those are exactly what I'm looking for. Thank you so much!
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>>10131358
No, they would give away the latest print in the glb but no patterns ever.
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Does anybody have any ideas for fur accessories? I recently acquired a genuine fur coat that is torn in several places. I don't think I can repair it, but the material is so beautiful it seems like a shame to not use it for something.
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>>10135782
Collar, capelet, earmuffs, arm muff, cuffs on gloves?
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>>10133185
Does anyone know what kind of fabric this is? Velvety texture, but feels almost like paper?

I tried using a fabric stiffener on velvet, but it completely ruined the texture of the velvet. Has anyone had better luck?

I kind of like the look of the monochrome velvet flowers rather than the silk millinery flowers that look realistic, but I can only find tutorials for the latter.
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Anyone know where to find a good cute base straw hat for me to decorate? The boaters I’ve been finding are way too masculine
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>>10136934
Well boaters were originally men’s hats. What specifically do you mean by too masculine? Do you want a larger brim, shorter crown, or something else?
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Anyone know off-hand, if you were to make a tiered skirt (with one tier) how much longer the rectangle should be compared to the rest of the skirt?

Trying to figure out if I can or want to do that with the design I'm working on.
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>>10137439
I do mine 1.75-2x
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>>10137560
Ah okay good! I should have more than enough fabric. The seller I bought this border print from had roughly 4.5 yards of this print. So I bought it all, and the border is double-sided so it should be more than enough.

I've never attempted sewing a dress before (have been sewing for a long time) but I'm getting a bit bored with collecting lolita and figured taking the time to design items, draft my own patterns and carefully pick out trims and fabrics would make the fashion more interesting.
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>>10136889
Do you mean you interfaced the velvet or attempted to starch it? Velvet paper is a thing, but I think it behaves more like paper than fabric.
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Does anyone have a recommendation for a good mid-tier iron? The coating on mine is all beat up. Thanks.
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Honestly, some of the lolita construction styles are quite forgiving for fit; I draped an underbust bodice quickly and when it ended up slightly too big (and therefore not flattering) I just added lacing up the back to fix it!
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Would I need to add boning to keep the waistband up with an A-line high waist skirt like this or would shirring and corset lacing in the back be enough? I don’t need to it cinch my waist, just to keep its shape.
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>>10148969
If you're using a thicker fabric, shirring+lacing should be enough.
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>>10148969
No boning needed, but I'd also recommend fusing the waistband to give it more structure though.
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I have question, I am not sure if anyone here has done something like this but here it goes!

I have been thinking about tracing a JSK that I have, that fits me very well and the cut is very simple, and I am thinking about using the traced patterns as a base and add ruffles at the bottom, but I don't know how I can connect lace from the bodice to the hem, making sure both sections are aligned perfectly (since the skirt's width are much longer and are gathered or pleated). I will add a photo for reference.

Maybe I should put the JSK on, and with a measuring tape I would mark where it falls from the bodice to the skirt's hem? I have some sewing experience but I just don't know how to figure this out. Thanks in advance!
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>>10149828
You're probably going to want to sew those lines of lace on after the skirt is attached to the bodice, friend. You can always sew the lace to the bodice and leave long trails at the bottom (which you will trim after pinning to the skirt once that has been attached).
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>>10149828

For the one in your pic, you're talking about the two lines of lace along the princess seams, yes? I'd say those are sewn on to the dress after the bodice is already sewn to the skirt. For the ends of the lace, instead of tucking them into the seam you can finish them and then fold them under.

If what you really want is how to match a (gathered) skirt section to a bodice, first measure the width of the bodice (at the waist, where the bodice meets the skirt), and the width of the panels. Divide the skirt width according to the panels (eg- if the sides are 1/4, middle panel is 1/2, then divide your skirt waist as 1/4, 1/2, 1/4). Mark these sections clearly (or sew your lace, or whatever).

Then, when you sew the skirt, pin the markings together first, and distribute the gathers in between. So you make sure they match by matching them first and distribute the gathers/pleats to fit the rest of the skirt.
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>>10149841
Yeah I guess that's the most simple solution, I don't own that dress but it seems that the lace has been sewn after the bodice and the skirt are attached. There are other dresses that I've seen the lace aligned and tucked inside the bodice seam though, and I was wondering how to do it. Thanks a lot!

>>10149954
Yes! I was referring to the lace at the princess seams, sorry for not explaining myself very well. Haha, I was suspecting it was about the sections width and doing divisions, but I am kinda dumb-dumb with math and wasn't sure about it. Thank you so much Anon! Will put this on practice before actually attempting it and decide which method goes best with the design I am thinking.
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>>10150142
Often when they are aligned like that the skirt isn't gathered and it's an A-line dress, or there's a panel in the skirt so that the lace can be inserted along the seam in the same way that it is on the bodice - then gathering to the bodice appropriately and matching the seams.



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