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/wip/ - Works in Progress
- Collage Edition: Series 4 -
>You, who have assembled the 7 /wip/balls, speak and name your wish...

Post your work-in-progress projects, recently finished projects, or things you'd like critiqued here.

Previous thread: >>894078

List of free resources: https://pastebin.com/cZLVnNtB
/3/ Discord for those interested: https://discord.gg/ujt5vtr4DE
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First in fuck yeah
Been working on this sister of battle for a few weeks after work
>No boobplate

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Making a bug alien reference for my players for ttrpg I'm running.
dem hips and thighs tho
Very nice, how do you achieve such clean geometry?
I think that other anon has a point though, if you're going to go out of your way to model the ladies you might as well walk the extra mile and model a nice boob shaped plate. They're titillating.
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Looks good, I've almost finished Elspeth Von Draken
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Nice anon.

Checked and nice

I'm currently on the 7th chair making some knots...
Wow, very cool, once again /3/ strikes with tripple A quality all around. Tell us more about Elspeth she looks like a cool character.

Your bug man has lady hips. Is this intentional?
she is basically the witch with a dragon from Warhammer fantasy, Lady of Nuln and all that you can build an army arround her, I want to sculpt more models to print this summer
Ah nice. That model is pretty intense, how long did the whole thing take you to sculpt?
The first model that I sculpted last year is in the top right, took me 30 hours or so to finish it from there.
Neat. I'm guessing you know your way around zbrush. 30 hours sounds like good time.
Nice work, it looks real professional. Personally I'd make the dragons wings a tad more bow shaped on the side view for a nice profile silhouette as a small nit pick but yeah, very nice model.
I know how to use zbrush, 3ds max and substance painter, but that's done in blender
Ahh great work as usual OP, stitching the head on that body anon never finished is a great continuation of tradition.

Jeez, strong start to the thread.
I've had to make a few complex anatomically detailed dragon for people composed of many subtools and grueling integration and retopology work but the thought of trying to fit all that on top of it with a detailed throne to boot would leave me with headache.

Props to you on that especially the composition.
Impressive. I keep meaning to learn blender sculpt but it's just so different from zbrush that I keep putting it off.
You seem to get pretty good results with it, would you recommend it? Unless of course you poly modeled the whole thing.
>would you recommend it?
Nope, you miss lots of tools from Zbrush, and I like some procedural effects in blender but the performance is horrible, I used the ivy generator in that model and it was a pain in the ass too.
He can also get more distinct membranous wings by zmodeling a plane and utilizing remesh guide so the corners of the sharp corners on the mesh don't contract back in when upping the remesh polycount. Make the Horns, nails, and claws as separate subtools and taper and bend them in the gizmo. Create the scale on the body separately and boolean them on top of a form which from references looks like it had a standard brush run through it down the middle. The nice about this dragon's references is that it's very alpha friendly. If you want to elaborate on its form with some muscles (especially areas that have those scales resting on top of them) then this would be probably closer to a lindwurm that has been given two extra legs if you can find an anatomy diagram for that.
Other way round. Bug woman has no need for tits.
The geo node version of the ivy definitely helps. The implemented ivy gen is absolute trash in Blender.
I hope the pay is either really good or you really like chairs.
In this moment I'm hating chairs. Its not funny when you have to do a whole collection but that's the job. I'd prefer to model tiddies and dicks. The pay is ok. In the long run I like to create dependence from my clients, some of them no longer hire photographers and depend on me to create catalogs and product portofolios.
I hate to wortk with scans I use meshroom and all is slow as fuck, program?
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Yes the dragon's body is an old model and I didn't used to work that way then, this is from a recent sculpt and even if the membrane is more simple all looks better, the model has a few scales as subtools, that I should sculpt more, the horns, nails, fangs and claws are different subtools too, the body scales match the reference, ofc it could look better with different ones.
The model has 350 subtools, 250 the witch, and 15M tris and takes 2.5 minutes to load.
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Wow anon, it looks very cool
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Prototyping an arena with a bronze age ziggurat-ish touch mixed with your typical greco-roman radial configuration. Arena platform is way too far away from the crowd, 5 meters below. Gonna lower it to 3.
Also just for shits and giggles I checked how many people it can hold and the maximum amount is at 8000 more or less. The more you know!
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raise it to 3 you mean
looks cool
also you may want to consider a steeper angle on the leadup to the seating area
right now it looks like the fighters could make their way up and escape
>looks cool
Thanks man
Don't worry I'll put some fences leading up to the crowd, spikes, a firewall or slippery oil, I just wanna retain the low angle for that ziggurath-ish A E S T H E T I C
Actually meshroom cuz I have to work with either licensed software or free software within my own company. It's not too bad because I have a slave computer dedicated only to this kind of processing.

When you get to work with some clients you have to sign and comply with certain IP, competition and compliance standards so my office computers have to be clean for audits.

I prefer reality capture, it's the perfect balance of speed an accuracy for me but I have to play it legal inside my company. I actually do archviz 95% of the time so having another more robust program is not worth it.
As it's only for reference use I do not need perfect scans but I'm saving on one of those Einscanners so I can speed up this process.

At home I do have a pc that looks like cgpersia's server but I can't use it for professional work and I do prefer reality capture for personal work.
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The purpose of this exercise was try to model my room as fast as possible while still keeping a decent accuracy. The intention is to take this into a 2d program (CSP) instead of sketching. I was making good progress until I got to that balcony door which completely wrecked me when I tried to box model it. Then I went back to booleaning it like the rest of the objects, but I ended up misunderstanding important parts of the structure and will have to repeat it. I spent ~3h on it today and it completely killed my momentum.

This whole experience made me realize that instead of trying to hack it in Blender, I should try Moi for my sketching needs instead, which is convenient as I wanted to use it more anyway. Hopscutter really makes things faster, but it does not give me the accuracy that Moi would. If it was vanilla Blender it would be much worse.
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Anyone know why this is happening or an easy way to fix it? The rust part on the top is fine, but the one below looks really metallic and really orange. It's the same shade as the one at the top but isn't acting like it.
I'm not sure if I'm doing it right, I'm just using a color ramp to change the black to red because that's all I really want to do.
>that balcony door which completely wrecked me when I tried to box model it.
what part of that door did you have trouble with?
My best guess would be that is has to do with the color difference between the top and bottom of the hull. Black is [r: 0, g: 0, b: 0] or [hex: 000000], so if you add a color to it, the color will just be itself, but if you add a color to that orange-ish color, it will be different. Imagine it like regular math. If you add 37 to 0, the result will be 37, but if you ad 37 to 15, the result will be 52. You could probably fix the issue by overlaying the rust instead of adding it (or at least I'm assuming that's what you're doing).
I was thinking it might have something to do with the rust and red being so close in colour. When I reverse the orange and red on the color ramp it actually looks better, but then the rust parts from the top line up with the coloured parts on the bottom, and the same for the rust on the bottom with the colour on the top, so it looks mismatched.

>or at least I'm assuming that's what you're doing

That's what I would prefer to do but I'm too much of a brainlet. The whole thing is just one texture (obviously the bottom is a separate texture, but it's still essentially the same texture file if you know what I mean).
It's not really a big deal because it'll be in the background anyway, and I hate shitting threads up with my stupid questions, but if something like this crops up, even when it isn't relevant, I like to try and get an answer so I know what to do in the future should it be relevant.
Thanks for your help though. I'll try the overlay method which I think should work much better.
Gonna try character modeling for the first time
Based skelly maker. By the way, may I suggest modeling the jaw as a separate object? Since skulls irl have it separate too, unless of course you already know that and this choice is deliberate, stylization
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I made a super cool skeleton model! Im gonna make it look neater by aligning the bones together more
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If i try hard enough, i could use it in a videogame! That would be super cool. But right now i've been having fun making lil models as one offs. Here's a lil swat guy i made.
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That's nostalgic, my first non-tutorial project was a skull.
Really make the jaw separate. Also there's a hole here, it's easy to miss.
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working on comfort project to help climb out of artistic burnout. marble game
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Everyone in this thread is talented.
Well, I have little to no idea what I'm doing. I watched enough tutorials to push polygons around, and add basic materials. But beyond that? Absolutely clueless. Well, I figured I'd take a shot at an "easy" model. But it's taking hours just to get this far.

I'm not trying to make "low poly" art per se. But I'm trying to be economical. Only add when it feels necessary. Toggling on smooth shading makes the model look like shit.
for you model to look better on smooth shading you either activate auto smooth or use the edge split modifier
and select the edges that should not be smoothed and mark them as sharp
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Ahh, I see. This thought has crossed my mind. But I didn't think of it too seriously. The amount of effort that requires sounds daunting. But I guess if I have to, then I have to.

Would you happen to know if this edge data can be used in a game engine? I'm not planning on making a game. But I do want to think that my model is good enough to use in a game.

How in the fuck did you get the topology for the muscle definition down?
try something like this for the eyes
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Just click on object, shade smooth, then click on the mesh tab and enable auto normals. Tweak the angle until it looks right.
It's that easy.
Really cool, friend
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How's it coming bros? I know you can't really see much of anything because it's so dark, but am I on the right track?
It's supposed to be underwater. I have some minisubs made for those lights that are just floating there not attached to anything yet. It's only a test render obviously so I will tamper with the lighting and things, there's still a long way to go yet.
Also I did try it with the denoiser, but it made everything so blurry that it looked even worse so I turned it off.
No bully.
"denoiser" is a meme. It's literally just blur.
When you're rendering dark environments it's better to have more light in the scene and then composite in the darkness.
Render it with the denoiser so that we can get a comparison.

I see you want the focal point on the big entrance and you have 2 statues there. If you place the sub on the lower left corner have the light be bright enough to get the statues in view. That should somehow fix your composition problems partially at least.. Making a thumbnail sketch of what you want is TONS better than fiddling for hours to find the correct settings. It all boils down to art fundies basically.
this talk about denoising makes me wonder: do blender users get annoyed by the cycle of clickbait hype generated by youtubers around new features?
with denoising in particular, it feels like a big beginner's trap. lots of splotchy images and surface details completely obliterated.
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I started off by insetting and extruding in the wrong direction, and when I tried to fix it by moving the faces, I got face flaps as if were a tent. When I tried solving this by knifing in extra points only for the knife tool to not actually do what I want. For some reason it was not putting in the points and this started to put me on tilt. Afterwards I realized that I forgot to do the wooden enclosure around the door and gave up in disgust. Anyway, here is what I wanted to do with that door. I was in the zone the whole day today, but I really wasn't fast enough as it took me 5h to model it. At this distance you can't really see the curvature of the grills properly so that was a wasted effort. But apart from that I do not think I did much that isn't visible. I'll get better at this. I've studied a lot over the past 7 months and now is the time to refine that knowledge into actual skill through practice.

I am going to bring this into CSP and try painting over it and see where that gets me. I want to develop a hybrid art style for illustrations. Maybe it will turn out that I need to do more (or less) on the 3d side. But modeling each prop to perfection is not the way to go for this.
may i ask if you've spent much time doing no-frills poly/sub-d modelling before jumping into moi or hopscutter?
I don't think I've done much modeling, but at this point it does not feel like I am a beginner anymore since I have a lot of knowledge and some experience. I can't be an expert due to lack of actual practice though.

You'd really need to be an expert at either style to understand their pros and cons though. Nobody will claim that C is easier to program in that Python.
How would you model that wood tape?
It is easy to draw a curve along the surface in Zbrush, in Moi I could also place the curve control points on the surface and it will align the normals properly followed by a sweep. In Blender I could use the face snapping functionality with alignment turned on to get the same thing. Once you have a curve you can do a sweep in Blender as well. I am not familiar with it enough to say for sure, but you could probably draw a curve using the grease pencil as well.
i think you'd benefit from a few exercises limiting yourself to traditional box/sub-d/poly modelling and very strict (overbearing) constraints like no booleans at any stage, no non-quads ever, no creasing etc.

it will be very frustrating, but at the end of it, many modelling tasks will become trivial for you, and you'll avoid the downsides (clea up) that come with the other workflows.
denoiser is really only useful in like archviz interior scenes, which are already prone to be quite noisy due to the nature of the lighting itself and there usually isn't anything with fine surface detail that would suffer from a particularly aggressive denoise alg

but in 2022 for archviz I'd consider using UE5 rather than an offline renderer, so meh I guess.
forget about denoising character renders with skin pores or such, unless your character is literally a plastic doll, the denoiser will turn it into one.

I hate youtubers so much.
That's what I was thinking. I did it ages ago and it was bit like when you use clone in photoshop and if you don't do it right it looks sort of patchy.

Ah I didn't think of that, thanks a lot I'll do that.
It's hard enough as it is because I have to model things in Eevee and then render in Cycles. My computer doesn't have the ability to model in Cycles. Just for that I posted, I'm not kidding, it would take about 2 minutes to render in the viewport.

I can do it again, but it won't be the same because I don't have the lights or nothing in anymore. I just added them in for the timebeing to see how it was looking with them.

The one on the lower left was supposed to be lighting my meme sub but it just kinda looks like a rock and you can't tell what it is. I could easily add a few more subs. I think the other anon is right in that I should darken it in the compositor. It'll be easier that way.

>Making a thumbnail sketch of what you want is TONS better than fiddling for hours to find the correct settings

Believe it or not it's the first time I did do that. I only really did a basic gist of it though on a scrap piece of paper that's like 2"x2".
Like everything I just try to find a starting point and then try to wing it from there.

Thank you for your replies friends.
That's neat and all. But I want the eyes to look 3D. I'm not going to go for a spherical style eyes, because that would be too realistic. But something that does convey depth. I'm not sure how I'm going to do that. I'll likely hollow out the eye sockets, and paint the inside white. If it works how I think it might, then animating the pupils inside of the blank eye cavity will create the illusion of whole eyes.

And besides. I haven't learned how to texture yet.

Thanks, I'll see how it works out.
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Tried to 'brighten' up the face.
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Alright. Focused on the face today. I tried to make smart loops like how I saw in a tutorial. Loop around the eyes and mouth and all that jazz.
Set auto smoothing to 70%. That seems to get the edges I want. But I also looked up a toon shading tutorial. I don't think the tutorial I found will get the exact results I want. But it will suffice for now, Until I find something better.
The eye shape is practically what I want. But I don't know how I'm going to trick the viewer into thinking they're solid rather than hollowed. I guess I'll have to look up a tutorial for anime eyes too. So be it.
I dont recommend posting your work to a known white supremecist board
But what if I'm a white supremacist?
Did you hear the news about the white power shooter, come to browse because you were curious about the big evil Four Chans, stumble into /3/ and decide you had to warn us about the site's reputation?
We just post cg stuff here. Calm down.
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Why, when I set the beveled edges of my little cube mesh to Shade Smooth, do I get this ugly shine accross the front?
I tried marking the rest of the edges as sharp, but it doesn't seem to make a difference.
One or more of the side polys share the same smoothing group with the front face.
idk how it works in blender but this should be a one button fix.
You need to turn on autosmooth for the sharp edges to work. Object Data Properties -> Normals -> Autosmooth. Alternatively, one of the faces might be non-planar. In Edit mode, select all and go Mesh -> Clean Up -> Make Planar Faces.
Autosmooth fixed it instantly. My thanks.
It truly was a one-button solution lol
Fuck off nigger fbi chud
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Shenron Blendlet again.
The issue I was having with clouds is that I was trying to go for a more interesting background but it didn't look right with realistic clouds. I feel like it looks okay now but I'm taking a break to play Path of Exile.
Incredible to be put into the collage, first time I've been included in anything. Means a lot.
Absurdly good.
This has a slight cavewoman vibe. Pretty cool I think.
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you can probably already use that in a video game
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I tried using this as ref and panting it in 2d, but trying to draw the bed creases killed me. My 2d skills are just too weak. I am going to have to look into toon shading and making use of freestyle edges in Blender. I've decided that I want to lean more on 3d and need to find ways of making use of that modeling info. What are some good resources for going from 3d to 2d anime style art?

The plan is to do some research and do further modeling to complete the room further and make it more accurate. I'll redo the beds in Moi, bring them into Blender (or maybe Zbrush) and then come in with a clothes brush to do the creases.
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Checked. Chair anon here. I used a spline with a special compound object in max called loft. There you can control the profile and bank of the fiber. I do it with a smoothing modifier stacked so it looks good when it's at final res.

Al so made a small script called select by ring so i can hide sections of the fiber and solve knots around themselves.

Knots have to knotted just like the real thing because some images are meant to be factory references so yeah.
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-Worked on the face some more.
-Modeled ears(that took some time)
-Watched a few more toon shading tutorials. Found a different way to handle coloring. The previous method involved selecting specific colors. However, this other method can mix with textures. I haven't made any textures though, so it's just mixing a base color for now.
-For the outline, all the tutorials suggest the same method. I'm not really liking this method, because the lines look disconnected and all warbly. I'll have to hunt for a better method. But for now, this one is fun to play with. I was able to fashion some eyebrows by extruding out from the brow area, and the lines automatically draw around the extrusion. Pretty neat.
-There's the start of a hat up above. But I got distracted with more face and head stuff.
Damn, you done channeled that Toriyama. Nice.
Very neat Anon, you're using the inverted hull method for the outline? A popular alternate approach is to do the outline entirely by compositing it on top as a post process effect, search for UE4/Unity shader tutorials with keywords like "post process toon shader", but I'll quickly summarize it here:

1) Choose a render pass to use as the base, color/final image usually has too much noisy info, world normal or depth is better.
2) Run and edge detection kernel over the pass, laplacian and sobel are popular choices.
3) Run a dilation kernel for X passes until satisfied with line thickness.
4) Multiply on top of original image.
Thanks. I'm going for old school Harvest Moon. I guess the style is similar to Toriyama's.

Full disclosure: I've never rendered anything on purpose. I've accidentally rendered stuff by playing with the options. But I really don't know what I'm doing there at all. I'll need to look up how to render before any of that makes sense. A "dilation kernel"? lol

But I'm really hoping for a method that can be done in real time. Because the goal is to make a model that can realistically be used in a video game. Not that I have any real aspirations to develop a game. But the *idea* that a game could use the model is fun for me. But I guess it can't hurt to learn what the post process toon shader can do.
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Are you afraid?
Love this lil guy. Inspirational.
Yes I am afraid of turds in my pool.

Actually it looks like diarrhea foam.
Look at this anon you could get some inspiration.

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He's so fucking cute and I rarely say this kind of shit, props to you anon.
yes it was supposed to be a turd.
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Cool, a flying drone thing or a helmet?

Trying to put fur on this bitch but it's melting my pc. Want to upgrade from GTX 1070 to a RTX 3070 TI but is it worth it right now?
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Trying my hand at geonodes for terrain creation. hashing out some bullshit sci-fi concept art.

Blender is kinda fun
>jaw separate
Fuck I should have done that, wish I looked back in here earlier. I could try deleting the jaw bits and make the jaw separate
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Yeah it's a helmet
Looks cool but at a design level, I'd remove these long screws or change them, they make the thing look fragile/cheap
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'preciate it.

Bah, I lost my original post. Don't feel like retyping it all. Here's the QRD
-Crude hand. Bad topology. Needs work.
-Thinking perhaps working with odd faces is better. Dividing faces from 1 to 2 to 4 is impossible without creating triangles. But 1 to 3 to 5 can ensure quads.
-Crude hat. Don't how to fit it on his head snugly. They're separate objects.
-Got lazy with the hair line and created a bunch of triangles. I should probably handle his hairline with textures instead. But I don't feel like learning textures yet.
-Played with lighting more. Added some diffuse lighting. Ultimately want to go with a watercolor look, but don't know how to pull it off. Need better tutorial.
-Don't know how to get the eyebrows to show over top of the hat.
Don't know how to make the lines look connected. Hate how they "hang" off the surface like that. The gaps are ugly.
-I need to learn more, because I'm uncertain how to do a lot of things.
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Been tooling around with blender for a few weeks. Decided to go for a cliche floating island as my first project I actually intended to finish, so here's my first pass. Thankfully I realized I hadn't activated CUDA *before* I tried rendering.
>Don't know how to make the lines look connected. Hate how they "hang" off the surface like that. The gaps are ugly.

A couple of ideas:
- Stack multiple outline shells instead of one, that should fill in problem areas like the eyes.
- Another angle of attack: instead of filling in the lines just "cut away" the tiny outline slivers. The outline shader could have logic to drop the opacity of the outline to 0 if the angle between a polygon and camera is close to 90 degrees.
You'd accomplish a lot in your life if you dropped your pessimistic outlook on life. The only person that fails will only be you
On another note, can anyone answer me some questions regarding the ocean modifier:
Is it always the best choice when trying to create water surfaces, even when it's something as simple as this?
Or does it make more sense to stack some noises using the displacer and get cracking with a decent shader instead of fucking around with the foam settings?
Which one is better in regards to render times, especially when including shader fuckery for both to look equal?

I'd try that shit myself but given the shitty specs of my system I can't exactly run tests all day, as I need that shit to work, so I'm hoping some of you fags have some experience in that area.
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Stacking sounds like a bad idea. Because the solidify modifier already creates a double of the mesh. Here, I stacked 3 more, for a total of 4. And so now it's essentially as if 5 meshes are overlapping each other. That's an expensive solution. And you still see gaps. It's just slightly less noticeable now. There has to be something that can calculate the distance between faces and fill the space with a solid color. There just HAS to be.

I don't want to cut away the slivers. But what is this logic you speak of? How do I do such a thing? Altering opacity based on angle of poly and camera sounds VERY useful.
Imagine if I could create color that's only visible at a specific angle. Please tell me more.

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