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Previous Thread: >>7704063
This thread is for the discussion of scale plastic (and resin) models kits.
-Post photos of your builds in progress and your finished builds
-Have your builds critiqued or critique others
-Discuss tips and techniques
-Ask for advice or give advice to others

https://www.scalemates.com/

Some helpful guides to get started:
https://www.scalemates.com/
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20%28Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step%29.pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com/
http://www.modelersite.com/en/area/98/scale-models-techniques
http://www.swannysmodels.com/Tools.html
http://fichtenfoo.net/blog/model-tutorials-and-in-progs
https://www.scalemates.com/
http://ipmsstockholm.org/
https://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/
http://www.primeportal.net/home.htm

Plus there are tons of people on YouTube with pretty good videos on techniques etc.

Sites to purchase models, extras, and supplies:
https://www.scalehobbyist.com/index.php (US)
http://spruebrothers.com/ (US)
https://freetimehobbies.com/ (US)
http://www.hobbyeasy.com/ (HK)
http://www.luckymodel.com/ (HK)
http://www.hlj.com/ (JP)
http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/m/ (JP)
https://www.hannants.co.uk/ (UK)
https://www.jadarhobby.pl/index.php?language=en (PL)
https://www.bnamodelworld.com/ (AUS)
http://volksusastore.com/webstores/scale/ (US) (Carry Mr. Color and GaiaNotes paint)
https://www.emodels.co.uk/ (UK)
https://www.wonderlandmodels.com/
https://www.super-hobby.com (EU/UK/RU/US)
>>
>>7733662
Is it worth to buy Airfix Stug III ( https://www.scalemates.com/kits/airfix-a01306v-stug-iii-75mm-assault-gun--1141239 ) for about 30% lower price? I see the tool is from 1962, will it be okay or will it require a lot of putty?
>>
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going to start painting this long overdue kit. I'm going for a contemporary syrian camouflage (for the T-55 AMV that seems to entail random lines of spraycan-applied sand yellow over a russian green basecoat). The DShK will stay off since that seems to be reasonably common with tanks in this conflict.
>>
>>7733741
>I see the tool is from 1962
That's probably not good at all.
1/76 is another issue.
>>
>>7733770
I wonder why 1/76 actually.
>>
Are there any replacement tracks available for the Tamiya 1/35th Panzer II kit (The Aus F/G kit to be precise)? Considering this kit was tooled in 1971 it's actually pretty nice but the tracks aren't the best, also they're quite taut with no sag at all (to the point they almost feel too short).

Also, on a semi-related note, are there any good kits of the Carden-Lloyd Universal Carrier tankette (any scale)?
>>
>>7733770
What about rebox of US Paratroops in 1:72? I see those are just one piece, only painting. Can't find what year those were first released tho.
>>
>>7733774
It matches 00 gauge railroad models.

>>7733790
Friul does 1/35 Pz2 tracks. Maybe others do too, try google and scalemates.
>>
>>7733754
Nice, love the ERA T-55s
>>
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so, what about them airbrushes and compressors
>>
>>7734086
Get
https://www.amazon.com/CARTMAN-Gravity-Capacity-2-5-3-5-Pressure/dp/B07D6M38HB/ref=sxin_3_ac_d_rm?ac_md=1-1-aHZscCBzcHJheSBndW4%3D-ac_d_rm&keywords=spray+gun&pd_rd_i=B07D6M38HB&pd_rd_r=26b4d848-9cb8-4bdd-91dd-6c2d4d6f62df&pd_rd_w=0VJIV&pd_rd_wg=h2ntq&pf_rd_p=404c4843-2c96-4d0d-a5fe-2b0598693e61&pf_rd_r=0KNY6PG1X5YX13W24GYM&qid=1567111388&s=gateway
and
https://www.conrad.com/p/revell-propellant-can-750-ml-39661-226715
Done.
>>
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>>7734091
>>
>>7734091
>>
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Look what the local mom and pop had in stock
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>>7734671
Damn, nice find
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Finished my second non gunpla kit.
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>>7734807
Planning on doing more cars eventually
>>
>>7734812
Looks great anon!
>>
>>7734807
>my second non gunpla kit.
I'm gonna hazard a guess then that you weren't just snap-fitting those gunpla kits together.
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>>7734934
You guessed right.

>>7734819
Thanks, id have to say this was more satisfying than gunpla.
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>>7734671
Noice, mine is on the mail.
>>
>>7734807
>>7734812
really cool
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>>7734091
Kek
>>
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Please convince me away from this.
Is way to expensive and I don't even build that scale.
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>>7735468
>meng
You're probably funding a real one for the PLA.
>>
>>7735468
For that price it may suck your dick though. I say go for it.
>>
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Fuck these assholes. My previous job was working at a Home Depot at the opposite end of the same shopping center as a Hobby Lobby. Before that, I hadn't been into a Hobby Lobby to check out their model kits for like ten years. I love model kits of WW2 Japanese planes and decided I'd pass the time on my lunch breaks building whatever I could go over and get at Hobby Lobby. Went and looked and the model kit section was like, almost fucking nonexistant, and there was NOTHING Japanese related. Not even Japanese cars, and I remembered them having all sorts of Fujimi stuff before.
Fuck them.
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Holly fuck, turnable commander cupola in 72nd scale
I wasn't expecting this
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>>7735878
>>
>>7735468
Well Trumpeter, and I believe another company are releasing their own Pantsirs, so you could wait until they're all out and go with the best balance of accuracy, ease of build and price, or w/e matters to you. Also, 1/35 is the best scale anyway, might as well make the transition
>>
>>7735468
>I don't even build that scale.
https://www.wmodelling.com/product-page/pantsir-s1-on-bzkt-chassis?lang=en
>>
>>7735954
Is this 3d printed?
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>>7736044
>ejector pin marks visible
>3D printed
>>
>>7736053
I sla print some of my parts and they look exactly like that.
See the layer lines, that isn't what injection mold lines look like since I have machined molds myself.
Yes the part that op is referring to is injection but image related probably isn't
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>>7736066
I was talking about these
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>>7736066
The entire kit is injection moulded, it is just a production deficiency, just like how revell used to make conical road wheels for 72nd scale tanks
>>
>>7736066
You have never ever built a plastic model before ever.

Please get out.
>>
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>>7736066
>>7736071
more accurate ms paint illustration
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>>7736066
Another way to get layer lines is if you set the CNC machine to "just get it done already" when milling out the mould.
>>
>>7736066
What the fuck, Takom? Couldn't even get some ball end mills for fucks sake
>>
Started working on a 1/72 Tamiya BF-109G-6. Really comfy kit that comes together ridiculously well. Hopefully I won’t fuck it up completely.
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>mix paint to get specific color
>it's too thick and leaves brushmarks
>add water
>not thin enough
>add more water
>not thin enough
>add more water
>not thin enough
>add more water
>it's too watery
>it takes 10 coats before you start seeing the color
>paint dries out on pallette before you get full coverage
It was supposed to be a relaxing hobby that will provide some entertainment during the process and a sense of accomplishment after im done but so far it's annoying as fuck and in the end there is only pain and regret
>>
>>7736520
what paint?
>>
>>7736527
Pactra acrylic. Some colors are thin as water, others are thick as glue.

inb4 "mix them before use"
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>>7736520
>Mix paint for airbrush
>Too thick
>add water
>not thin enough
>add more water
>not thin enough
>add more water
>not thin enough
>add more water
>Somehow sprays paint that's both think and pebbly and also very fucking watery.
>>
>>7735853
Kek
>>
Are zvezda models any good?
>>
>>7736559
Newer ones are ok, but as it is the case with all model companies, it differs from kit to kit basis.
>>
>>7736559
Their 1/72 kits are very nicely detailed, being one brand that adds weld marks on their tanks in this scale, but have some retarded oversights in their kit designs to accomodate their "snap-kit", glue-less builds.
>>
>>7736565
If they'd make more like the BMP Terminator it would be great.
>>
>>7736551
Water isn't the best thinner for airbrushing. Don't ask me why, but it really doesn't play nice. I'd recommend Mr. Aqueous Thinner for waterbased paint.
>>
>>7736520
>paint dries out on pallette
make yourself a wet pallete. its super easy and helps a lot
>>7736529
>Pactra acrylic
pactra is utter shit. i know it's cheap but really not worth it. if you going by brush better buy ak or vallejo
>>7736551
try using vodka instead of water
>>
>>7736570
You've just reminded me I have some of ULTIMATE's acrylic thinner that I barely used. I'll use that for spraying and see how it goes.
>>
>>7736356
Are those pre-shading?
Also, since you didn't reply last thread, did you use a primer?
>>
>>7735970
I saw it, sadly I couldn't find any review of it.
Also it is more expensive that Meng's and Tiger's 1/35 kits somehow .
>>
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>>7736520
>>7736551
>Using water as a thinner
>Using water at all
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>>7736865
Based and smugpilled
>>
>>7736863
>I saw it, sadly I couldn't find any review of it.
Not the specific kit, but related at least:
https://armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Reviews&file=index&req=showcontent&id=13816
https://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Reviews&file=index&req=showcontent&id=13518

>somehow
Resin's how.
>>
>>7736892
That reviewer's weathering looks awful,
>>
>>7736857
It’s an attempt at brush painted preshading but it ended up quite thick in some places so I’ll probably redo parts of it. No primer used.
Not sure which post in the last thread you’re referring too though.
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Time for some more naval resin. I went to Russia on vacation earlier this summer, and dropped by Aurora as part of it, and so it needs to be built as well. The kit is Kombrig's 1/700 one, picked up at Mir Model in Moscow (which as it turned out was just a block away from my hotel).

So, mask the deck... nah. I'm a warhammer veteran, so let's save my sanity a bit and go with a fine brush and somewhat kinda steady hand.
>>
>>7737048
First, do not preshade with brush. It does not work, it just doesn't, trust me. Don't.

Also the reason why your paint fell if is because you didn't use a primer. That's what primer is for, buy a spray can and prime it before painting, it's gonna make everything easier and it will actually look better.
>>
>>7737257
Not sure what paint “fell”. Are you referring to the guy who’s paint got torn off by tape? Why would brush painted pre-shade not work if it’s properly thinned? I will use use a Tamiya spray can on top of it since I don’t have an airbrush.
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Using oilpaints as washes is amazing. Never went back to using tamiya panel liner
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>>7737545
That’s on a plastic deck right? Looking really good. What kit is it?
>>
>>7736565
Several problems with zvezda kits I've had.
>Thin pieces warped into propellers and near impossible to glue together straight.
>Instructions that make sense half an hour later when you start assembling other pieces and find out some impossibly wonky tiny piece is misaligned.
>Vital connector parts attached directly to the sprues.
The first two are so and so, but the last one infuriates me to no end. On all of the zvezda kits I've worked on they connect at least some tiny important parts to the sprues WITH EXACTLY THE SAME DIAMETER CHANNELS. Maybe I'm retarded, but unless you go over every cut 3 times before, you will most likely cut off something essential by mistake.
>>
>>7737626
Yup plastic deck, Its flyhawk's HMS naiad
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>>7736121
Right! Pic related is a 3 meter long mold that I made and there are absolutely no lines in the finished product. Yes it took 76 hours but the results are worth it

>>7736091
That is what 3D adaptive toolpaths are for. You can eliminate almost all lines if you combine that with a ball nose
>>
>>7737813
Sure, you can. They just didn't.
>>
>>7737813
Spanish guy? Haven't seen you in a while
>>
>modelshop only has mig paints
Are they as bad as they say?
>>
>>7737828
They aren't bad at all
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Soviet captured Pak 36. Tried to clear-coat and chip some field grey from underneth the russian green, but didn't work.
>>
>>7737426
I was assuming this was you for some reason:
>>7731311
>>7731469
My bad. Primer is not really necessary if you are using a paint can, those are pretty sticky.

Handbrush preshading will either look like shit or won't be noticeable, probably the later giving it will be can painted.
When noticeable preshading looks just like the way you painted it, the edges won't blur by itself but look like handpainted lines of a darker tone.
>>
>>7737828
Some people loves them, some hates them.
I go :
>Acrylics
See if you can make them work for you, at this point you can get any other brand you want from ebay.
>>
Here is a story about my experience building the Trumpeter 1:144 YF-23 (which was $5 + tax where I bought it). The tail fins had tiny, fragile mushroom pegs you had to sandwich between the two main halves of the entire aircraft. If you inevitably break off the mushroom peg, git gud at gluing the tail fins back on.
>>
>>7738470
>If you inevitably break off the mushroom peg, git gud at gluing the tail fins back on.
That... doesn't sound all that difficult really.
>>
>>7738470
Did you finish the kit?
>>
>running out of shelf space
>have some builds I'm willing to part with
>don't want to trash them though
What do you even do with models you don't want anymore?
>>
>>7738840
kitbash
>>
>>7738347
Yeah I’m not that guy.
As you said the pre-shade didn’t really show much but I’m not displeased with the result for now.
>>
>>7738844
How do you kitbash completed builds? Did you read what he was saying?
>>
Sup guys, I'm sitting here with an iwata neo CN compressor/airbrush combo that I have no use for. Went back to college, need money, you know the story. It's lightly used, replaced the needle, could use come cleaning, but otherwise works fine. The question is, how much should I get for this if I put it on Ebay? I'm thinking right around 80-90 for the light usage, seeing as brand new from amazon it's $143 with a couple meme paints. Used it's around $100, but those are from dealers (?) so there's a reputation I can understand.

What do you guys think?
>>
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On the road again. The hull required way more work than I thought on both sides to sit flush and one side has been the graveyard of countless 240 and 400 grit sheets so it seems it will be the other. At least painting the motorboats on the side is entertaining and a break from all that sanding
>>7737061
>Aurora
She a good girl, can't say the same of the shitshow of the second pacific squadron. If I was japanese I would be embarrassed to call tsushima a victory.
Slightly related aren't kombrig models like 100€ a piece? I can't believe she doesn't have a decent plastic alternative in 1/700.
>>7739766
I would check ebay and second hand places (craigslist I think is the american thing?) and see for how much they sell for similar stuff in your area. Personally I think 80-90 usd is reasonable but all depends on the demand for it tho. Also check local wargames stores and ask around if anyone is interested as you'll probably sell it faster that way
>>
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>>7739776
>Slightly related aren't combrig models like 100€ a piece? I can't believe she doesn't have a decent plastic alternative in 1/700.
Rather depends on the kit, NMT wants 250 EUR for their 1/350 HMS Tiger, 11 EUR for the 1/700 Boevoi, and 36 EUR for this 1/700 Aurora. Resin... And as for ships without kits, there's a very HMS Belfast-sized hole in the 1/700 market with nothing but an unobtanium OOP resin kit to patch it over and that's despite her being a very nice museum ship right in the middle of a really major tourist destination. These things just work in mysterious ways. Trumpeter has promised two kits there, but they've been sitting in the "New Releases" section of their catalogue for quite a few years now without any kits materializing.
Now to run off and stare real long and hard at some 1/35 CV9040 kits while sighing heavily and muttering about 1/72 where the Gecko Resin guys an see me. Guan Yu knows 5M hobby doesn't look like they'll deliver anything but malware this side of Xi deciding to try democracy instead.

While on the subject, the candy was kinda awful. In my defence I didn't buy it at a souvenir stand by the ship or anything, but in your regular basement supermarket over on the west side of town.
>>
How do I achieve proper camo stripes without an airbrush?
t. eastern yuropoor
>>
>>7739812
block with masking/clay, hit with regular brush (at least thats what I used to do)
>>7739776
Much appreciated, I don't have any real local wargame stores so I'm just gonna have to look online. Thank you!
>>
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Putty is an invention by big hobby to make you spend money on things you don't need
Just peel off some material from the sprue, shove it in the crevice and seal it with glue
I am kind of disappointed with the 279 kit from a moulding standpoint, the big parts don't fit together very well, there is lots of flash and the tracks are full of ejector marks, but you get PE and a metal tow cable and a second kit
All that for the price of 2 average 72nd scale models
>>
I'm thinking about getting into scale modelling but from what I've seen it looks like I'd need a lot of equipment - soldering iron, magnifying glass, helper hands, spray gun, fibreoptics, leds, filler, knives etc. Is there a document or website anywhere that lists everything for a beginner to get? I went through the links in the OP but they didn't have what I need.
>>
>>7739980
literally second link in op's post is a pdf guide for newbies. also fiberoptics, leds and soldering are rather advanced techniques.
>>
>>7739980
All that you need is:
-paint
-model kit
-styrene glue
-sharp boxcutter
-sharp pliers
>>
>>7739987
That's a point - any tutorials on circuit basics? Things like the difference between series/parallel, components, volt/amp ratings
>>
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>>7739936
>Just peel off some material from the sprue, shove it in the crevice and seal it with glue
>>
>>7740027
Did I stutter?
>>
>>7738840
I trash em if I've my skill level has considerably improved since the kits in question were built. No one buys built kits unless they're at an award winning level, but I did hear of an old guy who went to church or art fairs that would sell his kits for like 5 bucks or something. Requires going public with your autism though

>>7740021
allaboutcircuits is basically an online textbook that's easy to understand
sparkfun has some basic tutorials on their site as well
>>
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AAAAAH EVERY TIME I TRY TO USE MY AIRBRUSH HALF OF THE TIME IT LOOKS LIKE IT CUMS PLAY DOH ON MY MODEL AND THE OTHER HALF ITS JUST PUKING COLOURED WATER
SMG HELP ME
>>
>>7739936
Glue sniffing slavnigger detected
>>
>>7740063
Learn to thin your paints. Use actual acrylic thinner (I have mixed in some water as well without any ill effects) the water and thinner will seperate so shake well before use. Go thinner rather than thicker. That's about it.
Also either buy locally (ripoff) or order from china a bunch of ~20ml plastic dropper bottles, cost next to nothing and are amazing for mixing airbrush ready colours. You can mix in the bottle (use toothpick to pour paint in) and then add it drop by drop afterwards so minimal losses from spare paint.
>>
>>7739936
>Just peel off some material from the sprue, shove it in the crevice and seal it with glue
i used to do this but no, it does not a pass as a replacement to filler when dealing with larger gaps
>>
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All that's left is the armored roof, then I can paint and weather.
>>
>>7735878
They realized their primary customers were boomers, so they stopped stocking new kits and just get 1960s repops now
>>
>>7740027
I have an old bottle of Tamiya thin cement that I dump all my styrene shavings in, then I use the result to fill fine gaps
>>
>>7740569
I used to do this but with mek as solvent instead of glue, but it was kind of a pain to work with compared to store bought filler. I still use it for when i need the bit filled to be structurally sound but that's hardly ever the case.

Do you need to shave the styrene for the tamiya extra thin to dissolve it? Mek i just drop full pieces of sprue in and it turns to goop a few hours later but mek is some nasty strong shit so I've been trying to use it as little as possible, but nothing else from my solvent shelf seemed to work as well.
>>
>>7739812
tamiya paint cans
>>
>>7739936
Putty is like 2 bucks.
>>
>>7739980
>I went through the links in the OP but they didn't have what I need.
No, you didn't.
>>
>>7740063
>INB4 thinning with water.

>>7740393
Looks really cool, isn't it a bit too tall tho?
>>
>>7740650
I mostly scratchbuild so I always have a pile of fillings and Evergreen offcuts to put in. Large bits get cut up, yes. It's not for the big dents, but for those annoying little hairline gaps between pieces I probably should have cut better
>>
>>7735878
They cater to mostly soccer moms that scrapbook, so I am shocked they carry kits at all. I give them points for what they have.
>>
>>7740736
nope, it's for AA defense only. Has an armored roof that can completely enclose the gun & crew when not needed.
>>
I'm such a fucking idiot. I dropped my airbrush and now the needle is bend and the nozzle is fucked. This is the second time
Why am I like this
>>
>>7741286
just get a new needle and nozzle, I did the same with mine they are dirt cheap
>>
>>7740858
hobby lobby reflects the death spiral of the american model kit market thanks to a defunct domestic industry and high markups on imports
>>
>>7741293
I think he means that he easily could have avoided to buy a relacement.
>>
>>7741311
Model kits interest in general is shrinking. We live in a digital age.
>>
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>>7741327
>>
>>7741293
Not him, but mine was bent a little like 2mm from the tip, I bought a replacement and that arrived slightly bent as well maybe 1mm from tip, so now I have 2 pretty functional needles I guess. It cost just slightly under 10€ tho so not really dirt cheap.
I think the prices are kinda skewed as well, because salaries are much higher in the states. I have a fairly well paying job and earn a bit over 1k€ a month after taxes.
>>
>>7741327
>Model kits interest in general is shrinking. We live in a digital age.

Wrong.

Are you 12 or something. Model kits used to be one of THE childhood past times, then consoles came around in the late 80s and devastated the hobby before a resurgence literally 15 years ago. We are actually in a golden age of model making where the pickings are abundant and the quality is great across the range THANKS to the digital age.
>>
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Is it possible to take off waterslide decals and reuse them?
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>>7741370
no
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>>7741373
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>>7741375
that's what happens if you frogpost :(
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>>7741370
I mean you can take them off but not reuse. And by "take off" I mean "scrape off". Once they dry you're pretty much boned if you fucked up.
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>>7741327
it has seen some growth in asia because of rising wages and nostalgic millennials
>>
>>7741356
This is true but I feel an important point is that the transition from childhood past time to sperglord obsession is just about complete - the resurgence signified the latter camp's success and the down period the fall of the former. And the quality reflects this - I recently built an old LS kit from the 60s and was blown away by the quality in terms of moving parts and the balance of extreme ease of assembly with passable detail. that era really signifies the zenith of the kit as a toy period, and since then the priorities have changed completely, with the internet fully opening the doors of the sperglord version of the hobby to the world.
>>
>>7741370
>>7741425
I've had dried decals come off after accidentally getting them wet. If you havent put a clear coat on you could try touching a little water on em. I feel like only the really shit decals have such little adhesion that a touch of water makes them come off, so the worse the decals the better the odds.
>>
>>7741590
If you had clear coat undernearh and didn't press them down with a cotton swab or something then maybe, but on paint pressed down, no way they're coming off clean.
>>
Hey newfag here. I want to buy a tank that’s already finished and this guy on ebay is offering pic related for 45$. I have no idea if the price is right.
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>>7742804
Why do you want to buy a finished tank?
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>>7742806
I am fascinated by tanks and I would like to have a model as decoration. I know I am missing out on the experience of building one but I currently don't have the necessary time at hand.
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>>7742804
You know there are pre-built kits available, right?
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>>7741073
interesting, really cool
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>>7742804
that's shit. Just buy pre-built kits or expect to pay >100 USD fo a custom made.
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>>7742838
>>7742844
I always though premade kits look cheap. I won't buy it then
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>>7742861
They do, but taking everything into consideration it would be the best course of action.

Also I was unable to find the item on sale, do you have the link?
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>>7742804
>mold lines
>missing hatch
>atrocious paint job
>45 dollarydoos
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>>7742863
>>7742869
I guess you are right, fuck this shit I will buy a premade.
Can't fucking post a link on here anyway
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>>7742871
You can tho
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>>7742871
how old are you? I hope you are either too young or too old.
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>>7742872
>>7742874
kept getting my post is spam, hope this works now.
Link is in german btw.
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>>7742883
https://cutt ly/mwnYsMh
I'm retarded
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>>7742884
Your link is dead
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>>7742887
no it isn't put a dot in the blank space.
I know i'm fucking normie rn but I'm trying
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>>7742804
Jesus Christ. I wouldn't take that for free
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>>7742884
The build isn't too bad, but def not 45€ not too bad. I mean it's not great but I've seen far worse.

>>7742887
Come on dude, really? First time seeing partial link?
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How many fucking children are in here today holy shit
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Some slow progress with pigments. The Pak was a welcome change of pace in between, not sure if I want to buy and try oils on this as well.
>>
What's my best option for salvaging a canopy that I spray painted and it bled a lot of places I didn't want paint. Thinner isn't working and I don't want to scratch the hell out of it. Would I have to just order the same kit or find a similar one of it can't be fixed?
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>>7743561
Spray paint as in grafitti/car shit?
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>>7743561
If the thinner you tried to use was something meant for acrylics then a lacquer thinner might be able to do the job. Failing that you can sand canopies and get them clear again, you basically just go with finer and finer wet sanding papers (make sure you get rid of all the scratches from the previous grit before moving on to the next one, if the shape allows it you can make it easier to spot by just going back and forth in one direction with the first paper, then do that at right angles to the scratches with the next, and keep alternating) about as far as you can, and then hit it with a buffing compound or three. There are, of course, youtube videos about this. Finally dip it in well thinned clear varnish.
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Some photo booth pics
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>>7743861
>>
>>7743861
>>7743865
Really nice and clean build anon, nice work.
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>>7743574
That's a lot of work for one piece from a 15 dollar kit but I might give it a try.
>>7743569
Some paint/primer for hobbies but not modeling specific.
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>>7739812
If you want them straight or hard-edged, use masking tape or masking fluid. If you want them blurred and "feathered", use oil paint. You can even apply oil paint to the edges of acrylic paint borders and get a blurry effect while painting in mostly acrylic.

>>7742804
Buy diecast models if the building isn't for you. You can try repainting them or weathering them, although I've never really looked into the specifics of that.
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>>7744550
>That's a lot of work for one piece from a 15 dollar kit but I might give it a try.
If nothing else you can consider it as useful practice for when you get a mould line right across a canopy. The "bulging" canopies of many modern jets apparently tend to result in such.
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Smokestacks only dry-fitted at the moment. I might give it a slight bit of cleanup from its current state, but I suspect the wash&filter process will handle most of it without issue.
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>>7743861
>>7743865
cool
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>>7743865
That's really good looking anon, very nice. What's next?

I did a bit of post processing for the white balance and contrast, hope you don't mind.
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>>7745335
Yea i still need to find a way to balance my photos, ive just been using my computers stock photo editing program and using the sliders until it looks decent.

My next kit is the Fujimi Ferraria F12, I plan to buy 2K clear coat and machine polish it with a rotary tool for maximum gloss. Luckily AK makes a hobby 2K that i can get where i live.
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>>7745499
Interesting pick, really curious in how that polish goes.
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>>7745603
The shop i went to didnt have any of the aoshima super cars so i decided to pick up the F12
>>
>put model together
>panel lines seem to be alright
>re-scribe few on fuselage after sanding the seam
>brush paint it
>let it dry
>spray it with gloss varnish from a can
>let it dry
>use tamiya panel line accent
>panel lines are so shallow that paint comes off when you're trying to clean the excess
Clear varnish coat was too thick? Everything looked fine after painting. Can i re-scribe those lines again or im going to fuck this up?
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>>7745971
did u let the panel line dry properly? Also what type paint is your glass coat? If its acrylic the panel line will somewhat absorb it
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>>7745998
it's acrylic
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>>7746022
enamel thinner will eat through acrylic gloss coat, why do you think most clear coats are lacquer based?
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>>7733662
Revell or Hasegawa?
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>>7746452
revell
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>>7746452
Depends on the subject. And in some cases the difference can be damn slim, since Revell did rebox a number of Hasegawa kits.
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>>7745998
>>7746409
I used same spray for coating previous model (that i fucked up in the end) and it turned out good. Panel lines got filled without any problems.
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>>7745971
>brush painting
there is your problem.
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>>7746409
>enamel thinner will eat through acrylic gloss coat
That is not true. acrylic gloss once dry would handle enamel washes and cleaning just fine.
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>>7746998
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>>7742804
that tank looks like a baby vomited on it, don't buy it.
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>>7747032
What does that even means.
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>>7747503
dumb, smelly flouride brain
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Finally had a moment to take a pic with actual daylight. No matte coat yet, thus the shine. Probably going to add more dust and mud on the tracks to cover the lack of detail on them.
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>>7747691
And a close-up of the cupola for the anon that wanted to see the finished version.
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>>7743406
*manchildren
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>>7747691
>>7747693
that texture is exquisite
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>>7747618
You are shitposting the wrong thread brushpainter
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>>7747693
I can feel the cast from here.
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>>7748322
ok...
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What to do... So it seems I'm now supposed to add on a bunch of smaller guns. "Seems" because,w ell, the instructions here do leave a lot to be desired. Unfortunately these guns are to poke out through holes in the side railing/wall, but instead of openings there we have, well, some sort of slab or hatch or something covering them. So that doesn't seem like it'll happen, the guns are probably a tad out of scale as well because even if some guy with severe overachiever issues chopped up the openings I don't see the guns fitting there at all, short of chopping off the entire pintle they're on they'll be much too high. Now I can't find anything suggesting they could drawn these guns in behind the covers, but if we're to assume the kit makers had some sort of idea here that must be the case I guess. The question then is just how the bloody heck the guns are best placed behind the wall then, since they're just sitting there on the upper deck they're fully visible.
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>>7748085
>>7748324
This was my first shot at this so either intended or accidental I guess I'll give a virtual pat on my back.
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>>7748379
>character development
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>>7748388
what ship?
>>
similarly to nissan-anon-kun i just finished up my first non-mecha build and wow it's so much more satisfying putting these together than the bandai kits, the imperfections from the older moulds are a pain but extra feelsgoodman once it's all tidied up and put together.

1/12 tamiya kit baiku kit btw
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>>7748973
>Katana
Based and Suzuki-pilled
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>>7748973
That looks really good. My style is a bit more panel lined / weathered, but the pristine look really fits those display vehicles.
What kit btw?
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>>7749028
> what kit btw
tamiya 1/12 suzuki gsx1100 katana

thanks anon, conversely i've never done a weathered kit before, i think there's a lot more to appreciate in a well done weathering job than in a showroom piece though.
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>>7748626
Aurora, the Russian one.

>>7748973
>once it's all tidied up and put together.
And tidy it ended up. That's very clean.
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>>7748973
>>7749046
This is super comfy
>>
I know that most brands of scale models carry some kind of reputation, and I was wondering what /smg/'s thoughts on that was. What brands have a reputation for quality?
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>>7749479
tamiya quality is consistently good, even the oldest kits are very forgiving
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>>7749479
While reputation may at first seem like a nice comfort blanket, "if I just buy X I won't have t worry", in the long run you're usually better off not giving a fuck about the general reputation of a brand. Look instead at the specific kits you're thinking about. This is because a lot of makers have both good and shit kits in their lineup, and because for many subjects you're not going to have all that much choice of which kaers to go with. Sure, Tamiya's stuff tends to fit together nicely (they really didn't give a fuck about details and so for their 1/700 Fletcher though) but if you want to build a 1/72 Su-22M4 then Tamiya isn't going to oblige any time soon. So going by reputation here should only be your plan B, when you can't find decent info on the specific kits themselves.
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Some progress that I have made over the weekend.
I am really happy about the look of these two.
And before you say it, historical accuracy doesn't matter to me with super heavy tanks so I just try to have fun
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Did the little botes last week and now finished priming and sanding the damn hull. If the spraybooth and compressor weren't so fucking loud I could lay the red hull and first camo color tonight but I don't want to wake up the whole neighbourhood
>>7750094
>dat gup camo pretty well done from what I can see on the pic
>dat semi translucent unweathered swastika decal /classic blunder/
Anon, I...
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>>7750124
The swastika is still drying. I couldn't finish it tonight
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Where do I find a girl like Yukari Akiyama?
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>>7750293
https://www.amiami.com/eng/detail/?gcode=FIGURE-042011
Orders closed tho, so you will have to look around. Your best chance would be Mandarake or just ebay.
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>>7750124
That's a really good job with the lil botes. How do you archive that color variation on the wood?
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>>7750923
>https://www.amiami.com/eng/detail/?gcode=FIGURE-042011
THE most 2D > 3D post I have ever seen
>>
does anyone here have experience of ordering from hobbylink Japan? They seem to be the only one's stocking certain kits but I can imagine the shipping will be a meme
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>>7751014
It used to be a boon down here in upside down land when our currency was good.

Now it literally costs more to buy from there and ship than to buy local. It's good to get obscure stock though, and you can organise and combine for shipping within 60 days of the first product in stock. The EMS is fast and can fit a surprising amount of stuff.
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>>7750926
Hand painting each plank you want in another tone. Same idea overall as painting the wood of the decks, only that you can't mask or airbrush the little ones
>>7751014
I ordered from them in the past, shipping might be high or not depending on where you live and how heavy is the shit you're buying and how fast you want it delivered. They have a shipping cost estimate build in irc tho.
Also have in mind that you might have to pay the customs ransom and that might get expensive and take some time
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>>7751184
>Hand painting each plank you want in another tone.

I've just done a base coat and then really thin washes plank-by plank, probably easier (may take a bit longer, not sure) and gives a rather nice finish, especially if there's some texture to it. Mind you this is in 1/35, washes will probably work a lot different at such small scales.
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Anyone else have problems with the Neo Iwata airbrush nozzle not lining up with the air cap? Sorry for the poor image quality.
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>>7751628
>>
>>7751628
Looks slightly bent
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>>7751014
They are fine, and one of the only ones that let's you estimate shipping before ordering.
Best thing to do is compare prices between them, local and ebay. Also AmiAmi and Mandarake if you are a buyfag.
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>>7750973
You are welcome.
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>>7751691
thats the thing, it performs this way even with a new nozzle.
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This one came out looking fucking baaaad, man. What a fucking bummer. I put in so much time doing layer upon layer of the thinnest fucking coats and it still looks like shit. There's fucking tiny hairs and dust and crap trapped in all those layers despite me reaching near autistic levels of effort trying to keep the brushes and model clean and locked away from the air. The panel line wash mostly failed because the paint is too thick and filled in the channels. There is so much paint buildup at the masking areas too. Removing the masking of the cockpit (which took such a fucking long time) and there was paint just falling off the canopy struts as I peeled away the mask.

Everything about this is just a massive fucking step backwards from my last model and I have no idea why.
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>>7752095
This is 1:72,scale BTW.

I NEED to figure out a better way of masking. This is unacceptable.
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>>7752095
paintbrush?
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>>7752197
Yes paintbrush. I am adamant on trying my best to avoid spray painting, but it looks like I have no choice.
>>
>>7751628
>>7751633
I cant say ive had any issues with mine but afterall its my first brush so i compare it to anything else, if you are wondering why your paint is 'blotchy' its too thick, thin it just a touch more.
>>
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Evolution Miniatures 1 35 Russian Soldiers
How do i improve painting eyes i have wobbly hands
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>>7752738
>those faces
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>>7752764
I know im bad at painting faces
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>>7752738
stickers
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>>7752772
Yeah, I bet those kawaii anime eye decals would look great on these ruskies.

But really, all I've seen are either vehicle decals or anime girl eye decals, no normal eyes for 1/35.
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>>7751633
what compressor are you using? did you thin your paint, how well did you shake the paint?

also, this much misalignment is not a big deal.
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is it me or scalemates stopped displaying pictars?
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>>7752738
>layer upon layer of the thinnest fucking coats
One thing to try is to paint inside out, because it's generally easy to leave a small bit of paint than to add one. So black first (or isis colour if shit gets big enough for that to be relevant in 1/35), then paint white around that leaving a little black in the middle, then dark/black for outline around that, and then paint the face around the eyes.

>>7752850
I don't see any either, maybe a server went down, or someone looked at the bandwidth bill and wasn't pleased.
>>
>>7752850
Adblock
>>
>>7752850
Happens to me but with the related products images (PE, barrels, ya know the drill) and it's related to the adblock. They fucked up with the /www/delivery/ (wild guess looking at denied requests and a bit of fucking around) and mixed useful stuff with the ads in a grotesque display of Q uAL Tyyyy COooooDiNG to bypass adblocks it seems. If no one else reports it I will next week and usually this gets solved quickly, but being a niche website perhaps takes a bit more.
Now any ad I see there goes to my blacklist and I won't buy any shit from whomever I see for six months and I'll campaign against as a petty revenge :^)
>>
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2nd try at highlight attempt and kinda proud of myself desu although it took bloody 3 hours. Also black basing>pre shading
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>>7753248
Just bought some paint for an F-16 myself...

Anyway, I rather like the look of that.
>>
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>>7753252
thanks ( I used this for reference) https://youtu.be/bbjwYw20e7A
i hope your f16 turns out looking good
>>
>>7752738
Thin paints for base colors and dark washes for details
>>
>>7752845
Either that's a really rough matt varnish or your plane is really dusty.
>>
>>7753248
Some people will hate that heavy preshading, I think it looks cool. Try taking a photo with more more light tho
>>
>>7753286
Considering what he said about black basing you may wanna drop the "pre-" there.
>>
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>>7753288
Still looks like regular pre-shading. This is what proper black basing is supposed to look like
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>>7753333
>looks
>>
>>7750124
>>dat semi translucent unweathered swastika decal /classic blunder/
Maybe the krauts only found shit quality paint for the swastika. Maybe they used whitewash camo stuff instead of actual paint :3
>>
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Is there a website that lists instruction manuals for older discontinued model kits? I recently stumbled across a Bandai kit from 1997 which I really, really want to buy but the goddamn instruction manual's in Japanese and I don't speak a word of it. Unless I can find an English version somewhere online or a translator then I'm just royally fucked.
>>
>>7753491
Are you fucking braindead? The instructions have numbers and images on what to do.
>>
>>7753491
A Bandai kit that's so kid-unfriendly that you need to be literate to follow the instructions? What odd beast of a kit is that?
>>
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So left to do would be to glue on the boats, a few little bits of railing, and some rigging. Unless my order from Silesian models shows up soon I may be off to that F-16 earlier than I thought.
>>
>>7752095
>>7752100
Just from your pictures, that looks pretty good, and I don't see any of the crud you're talking about. One think I'd say is that you should add a matte coat, most planes aren't shiny. If you put it on a shelf for a month you'll forget about the problems, and most people will think that looks amazing. However, I do understand that it's about making a perfect model for you, and honestly, spraying paint is just so much better for modelling. It's a pain in the ass, but it's really the only way to get a perfect paint job.
>>
>>7753745
Yeah just need to repaint canopy frame and do some small weathering (gunpowder stains, engine exhaust stains, fuel tank panel line leaks, fuel cap leaks, chipped paint/bare metal, dirt on wheels etc) then will do matt clear coat. I don't have high hopes.
>>
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>>7752373
Thanks, ill try that, I've been using vellejo air, so I presumed that I wouldn't need to thin it for painting.
>>7752845
nice plane
I use a Sparmax AC-27 compressor, see above for the paint, and try to shake it up pretty well.
>>
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>>7753284
neither. it is made with tamiya primer "thinned" with acetone.
>>
>>7753288
>Nice Preshading!
>ackchyually it's blackbasing
>>
>>7753491
You can translate manuals with google translate and a phone
>>
>>7753832
why
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>>7753832
>thinned with acetone
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>>7753832
Goood jaaaab, may I suggest gasoline and hydrochloric acid for your future projects?
>>
>>7752738

They look normal russians to me.
>>
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>>7753878
i didn't have lacquer thinner and i was sure they are almost the same thing.
>>
>>7753821

oh, excellent, now i have to put in more effort to help you. also, i didn't find any mentions of the paints you used.

that kind of speckling is due to bad atomization ->thinning. also, don't lay the layers on too thick. the first layer should be thin and translucent. as if you're dusting the model with paint.

check out mig jimenez tutorials.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gyte6l1Gokw
>>
>2019
>airbrushing water-based Acrylics
>>
>>7754802
Everything else looks really good. You could try a thick coat of gloss varnish followed by fine grain sanding.
>>
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>>7754827
>2019
>airbrushing
>>
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>>7754830
>Mootxit +4
>Painting your kits
>>
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>>7754837
>building kits
>not just shitposting about plastic models on a Congolese boating forum
>>
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>>7754839
>Increasing the add revenue of a Japaneses mongrol
>>
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>>7754846
>not using adblock
>not being behind 7 proxies
>>
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>>7754847
>Implying implications
>Implying meta discussions
>>
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>>7754850
>
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>>7754851
>>
>>7754855
>>
>>7754802
There may be some similarities, but acetone is most likely on the really fucking volcano hot end of the scale here. Your plane shows what's bad about that. So you probably do want a proper lacquer thinner, and if nothing else you really want to lay down a primer that doesn't contain anything that aggressive first to protect the plastic. That's also a good idea with some proper lacquer thinners and paints as well, Mr Paint for example can turn unprotected plastic into sandpaper at times.
>>
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Done. I guess I'll have to try and wring a somewhat better photo out of things some day, but this is how far the fucks go at the moment. Instructions in the background, all of them.
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>>7754818
thanks for the help, I'll try thinning, I assumed that because it was designed for airbrushes it wouldn't need thinning.
https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/categoria/hobby/model-air-en/
>>
>>7754911
>all of them.
Kek.
That ended up looking really cool. Love the subtle weathering on the chimneys
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Are there any hobby news website that report everything? just looked on tamiyaJP and was suprised this was getting a kit.
>>
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>>7733662
How likely is the Bolo tank to get a scale model?
>>
>>7755308
Yeah, I'm surprised this pos is getting a kit too
>>
>>7755393
As likely as you concentrating your autism and designing a kit of it.
>>
>>7735878
I work at home depot rn. Whaddup fellow wagie
>>
How are Masterclub's tracks? I'm thinking of getting some for my Tamiya Panzer II F (though given the sheer age of the tooling I might just go for some much cheaper Bronco tracks) and they look stellar. Only thing I'm not sure about is the resin pins used to secure them, it probably looks far more accurate but something seems rather risky about it- I'm not going to be rolling my panzer around so it's not like they're going to be under undue stress, but even so resin pins for metal links seems like a formula for absolute disaster. The links themselves look great though so I could always just use wire.
>>
>>7755909
>buying expensive tracis for a pos 70s kit
Fucking why?
>>
>>7755978
Thought as much. I wanted to at least have something better than the stock vinyl tracks (mainly because of how bloody tight they are) but I might just try and make do with them and if all else fails get some cheap replacements.
>>
>>7755984
>thinking you can delete the truth, brainlet-kun
embarrassing.
>>
>>7755909
I got MC tracks for the 38t, the cast detail is great but they have flash, the pin holes need to bored out and the resin pins they provide are too long to fit
Despite the ridiculous time you need to invest in the tracks they are way better than any vinyl tracks I've seen
>>
T95
Char 2c
Turtois
Jagdtiger

Which super heavy tank should I build next?
>>
>>7756193
TTTTTTTTTTTTTTTOOOOOOOOOOOOGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG
>>
>>7756193
>Char 2c
enjoy the wheels
>>
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>>7756253
good post
>>
>279s drive wheels have to be aligned perfectly or the tracks won't fit
>60 degrees of free play
fucking takom, why did you have to sabotage the final part of the 279 build
>>
>>7756193
Char 2C. Has a pretty nice camo and is something out of the ordinary
>>
>>7756376
Fuck, mine is on the mail.
>>
>>7756193
Char 2c because fuck you.
Also >>7756216
>>
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>>7756193
Char 2C. There's an aftermarket set for the transport railway trucks for it too
>>
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What's the best stuff to use to make zimmerit?
What's the best way to do cast metal texture?
>>
>>7757125
PVA wood putty and Tamiya putty for cast metal
>>
>>7757125
I used AK fine white putty for zimmerit, Tamyia putty + stiff brush for casting. The AK putty seemed to function similar to the wood putty that >>7757152 suggested, at least judging by the videos I watched. Couldn't find any for sale in my area and went with the AK putty instead. Pic included is the WIP version of those.

See results here
>>7747691
>>7747693
>>
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>>7757257
Forgot the damn pic
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I hate the light between 17 and 19 o'clock
>>
>>7757338
Hello, fellow Eastern Yuropoor
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>>7757338
Gonna build mine soon. Any recommendations?
>>
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>get your first airbrush
>try it out
>you wasted a lot of paint trying to figure this shit out
>try to paint wheel wells
>air pressure is blasting the paint out of the wells
>shit is flying everywhere
>wheel wells are covered in thin layer of watery paint
>entire wings are covered in paint
>everything looks 1000 times worse than brush painted
Do i need super low pressure to paint up close? Does it always take shit ton of paint compared to brush painting? Did i get memed by going for airbrush? I feel like an absolute retard and i don't know what is going on.
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>>7758373
Pay extra attention to the drive wheels, PE breaks too easy, turret upper and lower halves don't fit very well, the turret ring is too tight and it can't turn until you shave it, don't bother with the gun elevation, dry fit the hull to the suspension until time to assemble the tracks, which are full of ejector marks on the inside
Comes with the best 1/72 figure I have ever seen
The decals are very underwhelming
>>
>>7758551
you do have a double action airbursh right? Single action can't adjust airflow so they would be very hard to work with. And for pressure something in the area of 15-25 psi works for me. As for thinning the paint should be just thin enough to swirl around in the cup/whatever you use to thin it in.
And when using it it's better to use many thin layers of paint than laying it on too thick
>>
>>7758567
>double action
I guess, the trigger goes up and down for air and back and forth for paint
>>
>>7758571
Then it is double action.

You'd best learn flow patterns on a single action since it removes a dimension of complexity but now that you have it; watch some tutorials. It's much easier to watch someone spray than interpret some words into actions.
>>
>>7758579
What else instead of model paint i could use to learn how to operate this shit?
>>
>>7758551
Yes, painting up close requires a lower pressure. You're giving the paint less time to loose solvent in the air before it hits the model, so it'll be more prone to running, and since you're closer you're also hitting it harder with the air blast, sending that still liquid paint flying. On a flat surface that can cause "spidering" with the paint drops tracing the spokes of a spider's web as they're blown away, other geometries gives other effects.
This could give you an idea about some of the things that can happen if you dial something in wrong: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jH5OHYfSq5A

> I feel like an absolute retard and i don't know what is going on.
You picked up a tool the likes of which you've never used before. Of course it isn't going to work out well for you before you've had some practice.
>>
>>7758579
He could easily remove one variable with his double action by just always depressing the trigger fully. No need for a single action there.

>>7758582
Slightly cheaper model paint perhaps? The problem is that different paint will behave somewhat differently, so pouring in something else and hoping it'll show you the way has its limits. And different paints may demand different solvents, so trying to save money with a different paint may just cost you in thinner instead (or make practice frustrating and somewhat misleading as you're now trying to make your practice paint behave with a thinner it won't play nice with). Likewise try to practice on a piece of plastic rather than paper, since an moisture-absorbing material will make things work somewhat differently from one that isn't.
>>
>>7758585
>>7758588
Thanks for the tips boys. I will try again later today.
>>
>>7758565
>both painted in plain green
>not even color modulated or black based
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdEQmpVIE4A
>>
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Modelltrans modellbau got my resin here just in time to not have the F-16 jump ahead, so a bit of armour first then. Going chronologically, so first out a Renault FT. Not exactly a big project, and with all of 13 parts and a single-colour paint scheme I have a feeling this one will be done by tomorrow.

More flash then other resin kits I've built, but the fit has been pretty good and I haven't found any bubbles yet.
>>
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>>7758605
>>
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>>7758605
I did the exact same thing, going to put some shading on to make it look a bit less uniform however
>>
>>7758551
Post a photo of your set up.
>>
>>7758565
wew, that's a lot quirks, was expecting a bit more from Takom. They do look pretty cool. You built both with the high velocity gun?
>>
>>7759214
Yea, the short gun doesn't look as good
>>
>>7758862
>intact side skirts
You just made some boomer on a forum commit sudoku
>>
>>7759305
he'd have a point, most of the T-55AMV seems to have taken some hits, but I wasn't confident enough I could make that sort of battle damage work
>>
>>7759305
>>7759346
Not him, but If I build a Russian AMV I wouldn't battle damage it. I like them to look parade like.
>>
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How do i not spend an eternity deciding what kit i want when i am at the local hobby store?
I try to decide before hand, but when im there always end up being there like 30 min/1 hour.
Do i have a problem?
>>
>>7759476
Just pick one you sperg.
>>
>>7759476
The problem kids are the ones who buy all of them, end up with s stays measured in cubic metres, and then fall into even deeper despair when the chopping spree did jack shit for their emerging depression.

Also, the image macros may be better suited for a different thread.
>>
>>7759560
What did he mean by this?
>>
>>7759476
Its ok, i do the same. Just pick one you think is most appealing to you.
>>
Anyone know how to imitate metal casted parts? im thinking if i spray too thick it will end up looking like this.
>>
>>7759476
Depends on the model shop. I sometimes go in for something I checked at their online catalog and come back with something completely different because they don't list everything online.
>>
>>7759937
Don't, it will look like shit and most probably just clog your airbrush.
Use putty:
https://youtu.be/gUn2xnefo4I
https://youtu.be/HxL3uwM6q7c
>>
>>7759476
What's the problem? Shopping is fun.
You will spend a good amount of time and money on each project, so spending some time on choosing which one is actually reasonable.
>>
>>7759937
https://youtu.be/0-kqLtRGhUQ
>>
>>7759476
ok. here is what you do. you decide beforehand, then you go into the store and buy THAT thing. then, in couple of days, you decide was it as satisfying as changing your mind at the store.
>>
>>7760301
That's not going to do anything about the underlying issue of his fragile adolescent ego making him seek validation from everyone and anyone, including us.
>>
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A touch of paint.
>>
>>7760307
You want a cigar to go with that post, Sigmund?
>>
>>7759490
>>7759560
>>7759927
>>7759985
>>7760094
>>7760301
>>7760307
I like to pick something that just looks cool and different from what i last build, But i shall take Your advices to heart anons
>>
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And a hopefully better photo of Aurora
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Ruso-Japanese war bunch
>>
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Hull painted red and sealed in gloss as I don't fucking look forward to get peel off paint as handling the hull for painting is a pita. The rear superstructure is done and only needs some details to the painted and sealed before putting the botes and moving on to the second superstructure.
>tfw I'm exactly a month behind on my metal schedule for this build with barely any progress during vacation
Also I'm not sure if propeller shafts are painted hull red or are brass, looking around people paint them brass but it seems weird to me but I'm not a bote expert. I'll leave them be for now and before I put all the deck garbage I'll see what I do with them.
>>7760449
>>7760450
That was an incredibly fast build for a ship. The ft looks cute in light blue grey, that color always reminds me of valkyria chronicles tho
>>
>>7760594
So you even managed the PE for the little spiky directional antennas. I gave up pretty quickly on those. Camo's coming along nicely too, I assume plenty of hand painting there?

>That was an incredibly fast build for a ship.
Yeah, I breezed through it in a fraction of what I thought it'd take. Deciding to hand paint the bits I hand painted instead of trying to mask appears to have been a very right decision there.

The FT being even faster is now just sitting there evaporating the pigment fixer before I cough up a photo of it as well.
>>
>>7760631
The radar antennas are the only PE I've done that made me think that PE can be complicated so far. CA got everywhere it should not and never stayed where it should all the time and the worst was crushing them two or three times once done, so the reconstruction efforts didn't make it pleasant either to finish them. Albeit I must admit that I've crushed all the assorted pe antennas at some point tho as they are in really easy to hit areas so it helped me master the art of reconstruction™
The camo big surfaces are airbused along the easy to mask splotches, but fuck making the hard to reach parts as it's faster with the brush.
Related to that, I truly come to hate the ak "figure" series paints that I've used for the "green" as I had some sets around. Horrible and beyond redemption overall, they behave and dry like absolute shit with poor pigment coverage and mixing problems. I advise to stay the fuck away from those.
>>
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Tiny's done.

>>7760669
Luckily I have good access to Tamiya, Gunze and Mr Paint here, or Vallejo and Citadel if I flel like brush painting, while non of the really local one scarry AK. So the temptation should be minimal.
>>
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>>7754818
attempted to thin the paints. Didnt work to well. Paints used are model air light green and brown. ratio is thinner/paint/psi.
>>
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>>7760984
also, whenever I paint, bubbles emanate from where the nozzle cap meets the main airbrush body.
>>
>>7760450
Thats so damn cool. Is the little guy on the right the same scale?
>>
>>7760986
>>7760984
Important, what thinner are you using?

That's either clogged or fucked O-ring.
Clean your airbrush, disassemble and let it rest overnight on cleaner, Isopropyl alcohol is usually recommended for Acrylics and won't harm it. Clean all the parts and airbrush thinner through it.

If the O-ring is broken or stretched it will flap around and make shotguns patterns, so check it's ok. That said those patterns look like poorly thinner paint.
>>
>>7760995
I am using vellejo model air airbrush thinner, same brand as the paints. Prior to doing this, I cleaned each and every part white glove clean. I will post picture of the o ring later
>pic related
>>
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>>7760984
One part thinner to two parts paint is probably around the low end of thinner use for me. Depends on the paint though. A new bottle of Mr Paint or an old pot of Mr Surfacer have very different ideas about how much thinner they want.

>>7760986
So your airbursh has rabies. That seems like it could cause issues, yes.
Deep cleaning, as has been suggested, should be a good idea.

>>7760988
Yep, it's the Russian destroyer Boevoi. On the left is the Japanese battleship Mikasa.
>>
>>7761011
And there's the paints, while I was writing my post. Can't say I'm terribly fond of Vallejo for airbrushing, but they aren't going to make your airbrush foam at the seals. Something's definitely wrong with your airbrush. Borked seal, clogged up or just not assembled quite right.
>>
>>7761011
>white glove clean
I do not follow.
>>
>>7761027
Tiny DDs.
What did you use for the weathering of the FT-17? Oil paints?
>>
>>7761039
Oil pin was and dot filter, matte varnish with a touch of buff in it sprayed on here and there (mostly tracks and the lower part of the side units to prepare for the pigments, might have been a bit careful with it here), some pigments for dust and rust.
>>
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>>7761035
basically that you could put on a white glove, run it through the whatever it is, and come back totally clean.
>>7761027
I just had it vaccinated though. In all seriousness, model air is advertised as being able to be sprayed out of the bottle, which I have done in the past.
>>7761033
>>7760995
actually now that I think about it, when I first put this nozzle on, the o ring bulged severely to one side when it was screwed on

I just want to paint the tanks
>>
>>7760984
I do almost all of my paints at least 1:1 with thinner, any less and the needle clogs instantly. Try higher ratios of thinner. I was very afraid of over-thinning at first, but once you understand the "milky consistency" meme, you're well on your way. In a plastic shot glass the paint should run down the side pretty much instantly, leaving some watery streaks that slide down as well in some time. Don't be afraid to use more thinner, try out on a plastic sheet (some used packaging perhaps) and find out what consistency works best for you. If there's a shit-ton of mist after a spray, lower the pressure.
>>
>>7761185
>>7760984
Important, what thinner are you using?
>>
>>7761185
>actually now that I think about it, when I first put this nozzle on, the o ring bulged severely to one side when it was screwed on

You probably fucked it up then and it did not form a proper seal. See if you can reset it in a normal position and close it without a bulge. You don't have to screw it max tight, just enough for it to be properly sealed. If you squeezed it in there too hard it may be already deformed and unusable.
But your paints are still not thin enough regardless. I have never seen an "airbrush ready" paint that actually was airbrush ready.
>>
new thread?
>>
New thread
>>7761559
>>7761559
>>7761559
>>
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>>7761400
model air brand thinner
>>7761423
thanks, I guess ill just get another nozzle.



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