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Previous thread:>>7596749

This thread is for the discussion of scale plastic (and resin) models kits.
-Post photos of your builds in progress and your finished builds
-Have your builds critiqued or critique others
-Discuss tips and techniques
-Ask for advice or give advice to others

https://www.scalemates.com/

Some helpful guides to get started:
https://www.scalemates.com/
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20%28Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step%29.pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com/
http://www.modelersite.com/en/area/98/scale-models-techniques
http://www.swannysmodels.com/Tools.html
http://fichtenfoo.net/blog/model-tutorials-and-in-progs
https://www.scalemates.com/
http://ipmsstockholm.org/
https://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/
http://www.primeportal.net/home.htm

Plus there are tons of people on YouTube with pretty good videos on techniques etc.

Sites to purchase models, extras, and supplies:
https://www.scalehobbyist.com/index.php (US)
http://spruebrothers.com/ (US)
https://freetimehobbies.com/ (US)
http://www.hobbyeasy.com/ (HK)
http://www.luckymodel.com/ (HK)
http://www.hlj.com/ (JP)
http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/m/ (JP)
https://www.hannants.co.uk/ (UK)
https://www.jadarhobby.pl/index.php?language=en (PL)
https://www.bnamodelworld.com/ (AUS)
http://volksusastore.com/webstores/scale/ (US) (Carry Mr. Color and GaiaNotes paint)
https://www.emodels.co.uk/ (UK)
https://www.wonderlandmodels.com/
>>
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Might as well post something here. Worked on the Panzer IV this weekend. Finished building the schurzen. So far I gotta say if I was building another Panzer IV I wouldn't buy a Zvezda kit. It's pretty decent for the price but the cleanup of almost every part and sinkholes are everywhere. For some reason Zvezda kits of modern Russian subjects and their 1/72 kits are much better than this Panzer IV. I was interested in their Panzer IV ausf. E but I saw that Border models recently announced an ausf. F1 3 in 1 kit. Will be going with that one if I decide on building an earlier Panzer IV.
Haven't done anything on the BT-42 since the last update.
>>
>>7619254
ffffffffffffffffffuck me jagdpanzer 4 is an intersting build... making 'captured by american' version...
>>
>>7619258
That's looking really good, are you leaving the hatch open?
>>
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got some vape bottles to pre thin stuff in bulk, the primer has a ball bearing in it.
>>
>>7619426
What do you thin the primer with?
>>
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>>7619254
Must every liquid substance under the Tamiya brand be flammable?
>>
>>7619478
mr leveling thinner at 1:1
>>
>>7619277
Don’t think I’ve ever seen a American jagdpanzer iv seen some soviet captured ones and a really fucked up Alkett production version with white stars.
>>
do post ww2 tanks even exist in scales smaller than 1/35 but larger than 1/72
>>
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>>7619650
>scales smaller than 1/35 but larger than 1/72
Literally what for, 1/48 is dead.
>>
Reposting GB poll cause OP is a useless newfren
https://www.strawpoll.me/18247428
Pretty tied up so far.
>>7619503
The gayest labeling for tamiya paints with all those /F L A M M A B L E/ warnings. As for your question japan is pretty humid overall and alcohol (and lacquer) based paints work well in those conditions unlike water based acrylics that get quickly saturated and shitty
>>7619650
Tamiya has JSDF stuff in 1/48 and I think there's war gaming stuff in 1/56. Shame that 1/48 hasn't caught on as it's the sweet-spot in size
>>
>>7619355
Nah. I just put everything on for the picture. It's disassemblable for better painting.
>>
So far so good on Thunder spirit but... should I attach her arms & loincloth before painting? I feel like they may get in the way.
>>
>>7619726
Consider blue tack or some weak glue that holds the thing in place but can be detached or broken back off when you need to brushpaint the hard to reach areas.
Having the model assembled when you airbrush it will allow you to more naturally do the pre-shading and highlighting, so the light hits the whole model at the same angle.
If you're using a brush after the spray primer stage, it's less important to have the model all in one assembled piece and more a question of "playing it by eye".
>>
>>7619726
>Priming on sprues
Don't do that. You'll have bare plastic spots from the gates when you remove them. Use something like blutac an tooth picks for holding farts when priming
>>
>>7619924
I usually only do it for super tiny parts, then use a brush to cover up the unpainted parts
>>
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>>7619536
yeah there is 1 photo that i couldnt find its like m10's and jagdpanzer 4 is in one photo
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>>7620071
oop there it is
>>
>>7619924
>Use something like blutac an tooth picks for holding farts when priming
>holding farts
>>
>>7619254
Does anyone know if Humbrol metalcote can be applied with a brush? Humbrol 11 sucks ass and I'm planning on buying aluminum metalcote for my P-38
>>
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>>7620213
Fug :DDDD
>>
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Look at what I picked up today, lads. Goodbye frustration of Panzer IV and hello joy of a 1/72 new tooled Zvezda kit
>>
>>7620072
I’m guessing they didn’t use it in actual combat more along the line of just taking to where ever so it can be loaded up and either evaluated or shot to shit in a firing range
>>
>>7620291
No. Also humbrol metalcote is pretty bad too, at least I couldn't polish it.
Aluminum paints are always a topic, this blog reviews most of them, check part 2 and 3.
http://blog.nicnilov.com/2015/01/metallic-paints-for-scale-modeling-review-part-one/
>>
>>7620336
That was quick. Looking for your build.
>>
How do manufacturers decide what their next kit is? are their any news websites that show future kits and document hobby shows?
>>
>>7621609
Manufacturers facebergs and blogs?
Sites like armorama and AMPS?
>>
what's the best "green stuff" or modelling epoxy/resin for modifying models?

Pic related.
>>
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>>7622770
Your own semen.
>>
>>7622809
cute. what if I wanted to modify non-hot glue models, then?
>>
>>7622846
Any 2 part epoxy?
>>
>>7621298
Aww fuck. Thanks though, guess i saved some money. Is there any decent metallic colours for brushing? Would go for a spray but they are nowhere to be found here, except Testors aluminum.
>>
>>7622849
Ah. I assumed there would be certain brands which were better than others.
>>
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how do I get a gf.
>>
>>7623475
Bumble fucking your way into one where she either tolerates or finds your pedantic obsession with armor charming worked for me.
>>
>>7623024
I would strongly recommend getting yourself a budget comp-airbrush kit, it really changes everything.
This guy brushes Humbrol 11, with ok results:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MMny7eXE4yo

He also uses humbrol metalcote on his Lightning video, the one that comes in a spray can, you could give that one a try.
>>
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>>7619254
oh shid. my tank in op's post. so proud.
here's it finished.
>>
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>>7623853
>>
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>>7623855
>>
>>7623475
Buy Tamiya's GF kit.
>>
>>7622770
It all depends on what you want. Personally I find actual "green stuff" still has relevance in large modifications because it's less "clumpy" than milliput. I prefer milliput for really tiny tasks.
Don't have much experience beyond that.
>>
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1 48 Bandai ATST Completed .Learned the hard way that enamels melt Bandai Plastic
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>>7620291
Metalcote was fine for me when I used it many many years ago
>>
>>7624142
massive silvering on that insignia anon, otherwise looking pretty good

Applicable scheme since they were literally based off the nazis
>>
>>7619254
/smg/'s thoughts on Metal Earth?
>>
>>7624168
A niche line of over price kits that barely look like what they are supposed to be at times
>>
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>>7624172
Meanwhile, from MU (a.k.a. Maplemu)
>>
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post a vehicle you know will never be turned into a scale model
>>
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>>7620336
Getting there slowly. Removed blobs of plastic and made better handles. The kit goes together pretty well. Really love 1/72 kits that build well. Takes a lot less time than 1/35
>>
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>>7623942
Ordering my tamiya issued gf. Can't wait. I'm nervous, will she ever really love me after I assemble her?
>>
>>7624374
At least someone (e.g. you) can scratch build one based on pictures on the interwebs, and use it to develop a resin kit.

Until then, Pokpung-BTFO
>>
>>7624374
That just looks like a t-80 chassis with garbage from t-72/t-55am2b added around with some steel plates to wrap up the turret and some parts.
If you reaaaaally wanted to do it it would be quite "easy" this one, not sure about the igla (?) manpad thing they have there as they have two different launchers? or the dual thing is a mg? because building small detailed accessories like that is quite tedious if you don't them to look like shit or made up gribbles
Digging the camo tho, reminds me of late war german painjobs
>>
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>>7624470
legend has it that it is a stretched T-62 chassis with an in-house developed turret
the 2 cannons on top are 30mm grenade launchers
>>
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>>7624374
mirka II class frigate
>>
>>7623570
Airbrushes are way out of my budget for now. Even cheap ones (already spent a lot with the basic setup). Thanks anyways, will consider it down the line after i finish my current projects.
>>
>>7624149
Did you use a brush?
There is little to no info on that. Only airbrushes and spray cans, which aren't available in my area.
>>
>>7624142
I like it, maybe some drybrushing with metallic color?
>>
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>>7624519
Gotta love their twin AGS. Also yeah stretched T-62.
>>
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>>7623855
Looking good. And figures are really hard to paint satisfactorily.
You may want to fix the setup of your light box tho, and maybe de-dust a bit.
>>
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Meng reissued 2 of the World Wars Toons "pinky" tanks with box art figurines- at least, I haven't found anyone selling the orange tank with figurine yet.

They're unpainted and tiny. I did the best I could but things like the glasses on the small bear or cat whiskers were beyond my skills or brushes. At least the bear looks like it's sleeping on the gun barrel.
>>
>>7624728
No...Metalcote is in a spray can and is marketed as an buffable metallic paint.
>>
>>7625174
Metalcote also comes as standard humbrol enamel, I would assume aimed for airbrush tho.
>>
>>7624728
You may give it a try, if there is really nothing else available. Remember to thin the paint, and use a wide flat brush if you are using it for basecoats. Do not try to cover everything in one coat.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=syDZYSpbzzs
>>
>>7625107
Kinda neat? Love kit with extras.
Maybe a was to mark the details?
>>
>>7625107
unfortunately Meng seems to have slowed or stopped the WWT line. They haven't announced any new tank molds past the 012 kit and the Pinky line hasn't had new announcements for recolors either. The last recolor they did was in December with the red & gray Christmas Sherman with the Santa figure, and these 2 Pinky reissues have been the only other retail issuing since then.

I think the game itself not being a huge success also hurt the kits, but it was an FPS arena shooter with unique ideas and gameplay mechanics, so naturally it got overshadowed by Fortnite and Overwatch which were less unique but had more marketing, and I believe WWT had no PC release, it was console only which was likely another bad idea in selling the game. Meng's non-scale kits and some t-shirts were all the merch the game got, and trying to find news on Meng's upcoming releases isn't easy either.

They also advertise these as "no glue" kits, which is not true- a lot of the tinier pieces benefit from glue, if not requiring it to stay in their holes, and one of the WWT kits has a body section that has no tabs and 100% needs glue to go together. They aren't even what I would call "beginner" kits as they have tiny parts that require some degree of prior skill to put together and a lot of tiny fragile pieces(those Sherman brushguards around the headlights are incredibly easy to break). Though I would say the design of the tanks got better as each new kit came out, the Sherman was the second and feels flawed compared to the 012 tank which was sturdier and easier to build. I really wanted to get all the tank kits but the $15-$20 each I have to order them for online coupled with them being a bit tricky to build put me off from getting the full set.
>>
>>7624791
thanks
it's more of a camera problem since i only have old simple nikon coolpix.
>>
>>7624374
plastic or resin? :^)
>>
>>7625532
Guess I'll try then, thanks anon. Ordered a pretty cheap plane to test it out. Worst case scenario i can use it for weathering
>>
>>7625871
I doubt there will be a resin one
>>
how are Zvezda kits? my first build was an Italeri which was ok, then i did three tamiyas which were fantastic. my current build is an academy and oh boy, i probably won't be getting one again. i'm also going to try a hasegawa kit soon.
>>
>>7627550
Every kit is different., all manufacturers have bad and good kits, do your research on a specific kit you want yadda yadda use fucking google
>>
>>7627550
Zevezda is all over the place.
Old kits are universally shit stay away unless you want a cheap alternative to something hobbyboss offers. The news kits are within the range of italeri quality and are nice budget kits.
>>
>>7627550
new kits are the best price to quality ratio you can currently get
avoid old kits unless you like to shoot yourself in the foot
>>
>>7627704
>>7627708
thanks. was looking at a pz4 from 2017 of theirs and a mig-3 that is about 10 years old but couldn't find any info online.
>>
>>7627766
I don’t know the exact cut off, but the panzer iv is within the range of not total shit like the tiger I is
>>
>>7627550
Every kit is pretty different though. Check the individual reviews for each model. I've been quite lucky with Academy. They often rebox stuff, so you may try to find and check how the original was if you can't find info.
>>
>>7627550
anything after 2017 is top notch.
>>
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>>7619254
/smg/s thoughts on Rubber/Vinyl tank treads?
>>
>>7629086
They're shit. End of story
>>
>>7629086
ok on tanks with big skirts to hide them...
>>
got any good suggestions where to get a kit anons
>>
>>7629503
the internet
>>
>>7629514
I need more specifications anon
what site
>>
>>7629542

>Sites to purchase models, extras, and supplies:
>https://www.scalehobbyist.com/index.php (US)
>http://spruebrothers.com/ (US)
>https://freetimehobbies.com/ (US)
>http://www.hobbyeasy.com/ (HK)
>http://www.luckymodel.com/ (HK)
>http://www.hlj.com/ (JP)
>http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/m/ (JP)
>https://www.hannants.co.uk/ (UK)
>https://www.jadarhobby.pl/index.php?language=en (PL)
>https://www.bnamodelworld.com/ (AUS)
>http://volksusastore.com/webstores/scale/ (US) (Carry Mr. Color and GaiaNotes paint)
>https://www.emodels.co.uk/ (UK)
>https://www.wonderlandmodels.com/
>>
>>7629086
Convenient on vehicles where the tread is so small it would be obnoxious to build ind link or the vehicle naturally has little to no sag.
>>
I got an 60 year old model of the SS United States I want to try repairing/repainting. Since the plastic is old is there a tip for removing the paint (no sanding)?
>>
>>7629781
depends on what type of paint, but thinners might do the trick. Start with the less aggressive stuff and work up if it doesn't work.

I'm no expert but I think lacquer thinner/acetone are the harshest so save those for last.
>>
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Can someone give me a quick run down on the various Tamiya cements?
I'm new to the hobby, have just been using the white label (87003) stuff, and it does the job, but from my research I know there's better stuff out there.

Some of the Tamiya stuff I'd like info on includes:
Limonene Cement
Extra Thin Cement
Cement for ABS
Mark Fit / Mark Fit Strong

From my research so far, Mark Fit is used for applying decals, and Extra Thin Cement is for clear plastic (such as windscreens) as it won't eat it like the regular cement... I think?
>>
>>7630461
Regular cement has like 10%(? See jar labels for actual composition) styrene dissolved in it so it is as thick as it is.

Extra thin is 100% solvent and is meant to use with the capillary method for seam welding, it WILL eat the plastic and cause discoloration like regular cement.
>>
>>7629086
Uhg
>>
>>7629503
I literally get all my kits from the cheaper ebay seller or AmiAmi.
>>
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>>7629781
Oven cleaner foam. Leave it overnight and then wash it with water.
>>
>>7630461
Use Extra thin, is the best 99% of the time.
>>
>>7623475

Find nerdy GF that wants you to make models for her.

>14 years later.

My house is not a huse, only some interconnected dioramas where i live in.
>>
>>7630475
The User ID you entered was not found. Please check the User ID and try again.

>>7630461
>Limonene Cement
same as extra thin, just stinks differently.
>Mark Fit / Mark Fit Strong
decal application fluids. you can replace them with acetic acid and 2-butoxyethanol.
>>
>>7629086
>Try a stuart with them
>Kit recommends a hot needle to melt them together
>The fuck?
>Try it
>They don't hold worth shit and tear
>Fuck, try just epoxying the other one
>Fits kinda, it's caddywompus so I cut it off
>Now have a stuart with roadwheels
Still kicking myself for throwing out some absolute garbage tier jeep model that had wheels I could've kitbashed.
>>
Thoughts on rubicon kits?
>>
>>7630755
>>7630478
>>7630470
Thanks, will pick up a bottle of Extra Thin and Mark Fit.
Should I get regular Mark Fit or Mark Fit Strong?
>>
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I didn't know how much of a difference a coat of varnish could make, holy shit
>>
I've been trying to scratchbuild a 1/350 Type 2 ka-mi tank because reasons.

I'm stumped on how to do the treads because at this scale the treads are like, 1mm thick, and trying to build in all the detail like tread edges and wheels causes the styrene to shatter everytime.


Any suggestions on how I should make or visually cheat the tank treads?
>>
>>7630755
>User ID
What
>>
>>7631976
Regular should be fine
>>
>>7632721
>scratch building tracks
Just, don't? At least use another kit's and modify them.
>>
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Tamiya Willys jeep in 1/35 scale with Aber photoetch set.
I am not too happy with the weathering, I feel like I went overboard with the dust.
>>
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>>7632798
>>
>>7632721
>1/350 Type 2 ka-mi tank
that's a small tank
>>
>>7632721
> 1/350 Type 2 ka-mi tank
I've seen far crazier stuff at those scales and smaller so post some pics of your progress and I might get arsed enough to help you
>>
>>7632809
>>7632889
I just assumed he meant 1/35
>>
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>>7632554
The surface texture can do a lot. Here's a prop which is half as-sprayed and half, hm, either given a light gloss coat or just wet, I can't remeber which.
>>
>>7632745
>>7632809
>>7632889
>>7632899

Yes, that's 1/350, let's just say I'm doing something Kancolle-related that's why.

I thought up just now an alternative idea to doing the treads: Cut out a 1 mm styrene sheet or thick it up to 1.25mm, then scribe outlines of the the inner wheels and stuff and leave a fair margin for the tread walls. Then use the Mr Hobby scrapers to remove material and create faux depth around the trackwheels.

Of course, making a swivelling turret that won't shatter means getting brass tubes or wire, yeah?
>>
>>7632798
>>7632803
Looks a bit plain for a vignette. Gonna add anything else?
>>
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So my grandad has been working on his dream car for some time, and he wanted me to fix up pic related as a copy of his car. I've never done a monogram kit, how are they?
>>
>>7633272
Old, possibly not great for their age either.
>>
>>7633273
I may buy him another kit of the same model of car then. He's not building a street rod, but the kit is set up to build one so I'm not sure if it's even the one he wanted.
>>
Does anyone know if Kitty hawk replaces sprue if you ask
>>
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>>7624402
Almost done with the build. Waiting on some stuff to arrive before completing. Put everything together for the pictures. Kit has the same type tracks all Zvezda non-snapshit kits have so it's better to cut them in segments and then glue rather than try bending them as a single piece.
Did some modifications to plastic parts like thinned down the boarding steps(hoops?) on the side skirts, added texture to unditching log, thinned down the side skirts.
Still have to add some wire details
>>
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>>7633377
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>>7633379
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>>7633382
>>
>>7633377
DAS A BIG GUN
>>
Some general questions because I'm picking up miniatures again after dabbling in it during my teens. Being a wagie I have some disposable income and ordered a bunch of stuff from european hobbie stores and there's a bunch of crap slowly arriving from china, the local variety sucks balls. Note that I'm using acrylics as that's what I use for other tinkering projects and would rather not invest in oils as well. On to the actual questions.

1) How do I know when the paint is ready for airbrushing? The nozzle either clogs up pretty quickly or I have a damn sprinkler. Hit the sweet spot a few times, but it's difficult to eyeball. Been adding water drop by drop, used paints from rather thin ones to thick artist ones. I'd like to mix up bigger batches of spray-paint at a time into small bottles.
2) Will I fuck something up if I'm planning to paint with acrylics and use oil based varnish to coat and seal some layers in between the acrylic layers to "save" the bottom layers I'm happy with?
>>
>>7633377
Great job with those handles, gonna look really good.
>>
>>7633669
What brand of paint are you using?
What pressure are you spraying at?

About the varnish, that's indeed the idea, to use not-reacting layers between paint steps. That said I would recommend using only hobby oriented varnish, not general hardware stuff.
>>
>>7634003

Different brands, not hobby paints, but general artist acrylics. Had a better result with kinda creamy paints, but I guess the paste-like artist acrylics in tin tubes aren't really meant for this purpose. Using larger amounts of the creamy stuff for base and little amounts of the pasty paint for mixing seemed to work best. Is there something to help the pigment properly dilute in water? I think the few random chunks that are left in are the root of the problem. I have laquer thinner and dish soap to work with, but I was worried the thinner is gonna eat plastic and learned about the dish soap just recently, haven't had a chance to try it yet. I have greenstuffworld primers coming in the mail soon, those should be ok for straight airbrushing? But as for the actual paints, I will probably invest in some hobby ones at some point to make my life easier, but I don't want to cough up more dough right now than I already have and try and make due with what I have until I build up a nicer selection.

Yeah the part I was worried about was that I have a lot of hardware spray-varnish sitting around (matte and glossy) so it would be really nice to use those. It says it's okay on plastic as long as you prime it, but the things that I have doubts about are discoloration and how well it accepts paint on top of it. I've done some other stuff with acrylic/varnish and once I had slight discoloration but the other time it seemed to work nicely, haven't tried to paint on top though. Just trial and error and see how it goes?
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>>7634003
Here's one of the acrylic+varnish projects I tried (didn't let the varnish dry enough before packing them up clearly, thus the big smudge) Looking at them again I think it does give a subtle yellowish tint sadly. What kind of hobby variety varnish would you reccommend? Would be nice if it came in a spray bottle so I don't have to worry about cleaning my airbrush.

Also forgot that the compressor gives out 0-25 psi on paper, it's a cheap chink one, so there's no dial or guarantee that it actually does. There is a valve to control the flow, but again, no markings to tell at what point it could or should be.
>>
How weathered do y'all do early war IJN aircraft? I heard that the IJN was actually pretty fastidious about their paint jobs as chipped and weathered paint adversely affected aerodynamics so early war Zeros should have very, very little chipping. Has anyone heard about that?
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Almost done with the Kitty hawk AH-6j. I think it came out fine considering I fucked up the clear part
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>>7635377
>>
>>7630461
Don't use it for clear parts. It will still fuck them up.
>>
>>7635377
>>7635378
if you dust it up a bit you could probably hide the problem with the clear parts. Looks like a nice kit though
>>
>>7635395
Not him, but then what's best to use for clear parts? Haven't tried yet, but I was going to use the thicker cement, applying tiny drops with a needle, because the ultra thin runs off the sides really easy.
>>
>>7635407
The safest bet is an acrylic based glue, Micro Kristal Klear, PVA glue, something like that. The downside obviously here is that these glues don't give you much strength in the joint. That's kind of the why you'd use them here, just peel it off if things end up where they shouldn't.
>>
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There's a hobby store in the San Fernando Valley that has hundreds of kits in stock. Some of these date back to the 50s and 60s.

Are old models really difficult to assemble or make look good? As a newbie should I start with modern stuff?
>>
>>7635815
Some quite old stuff is easy enough to put together, but perhaps a bit lacking in details and such (in this case we're probably talking seventies-eighties, not fifties-sixties). Other old kits are really lacking in details (say, an aircraft with no cockpit or wheel wells, at all), have massive amounts of flash, and are hell and a half to put together.
So with the rare exceptions of the kits that go to together well and are quite cheap that might be good for a beginner, the old kits are generally only of interest either if there's nothing newer available or if you're in your sixties and feel an all consuming need to build exactly the same kits that you built half a century ago.

So as always, research individual kits instead of looking for eternal truths. But if you buy some old shit just because the local store had it then remember that there's a very special place in hell's latrine for anyone who does, gets a shit kit, and goes on complaining about it.
>>
>>7635815
For a beginner probably the best kit is airfix 1/48 bg-109 e-4.

Well engineered, clean parts, and there is a YouTube series of a guy walking through every step so you can follow along with the painting/weathering and learn the basics as you go.
>>
>>7635827
>or if you're in your sixties and feel an all consuming need to build exactly the same kits that you built half a century ago.

I'm a mid 30s boomer and I used to build all kinds of kits as a kid but I always left them unpainted like a total autist. Painting still intimidates me.
>>
>>7635839
Specifically, kit # A05120BQty

And the youtube video series:
https://youtu.be/kNG0fdaziyk
>>
I have this compressor. Will this work well with an airbrush? Do I need any type of adapters or anything?
>>
>>7635998
>that box art
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I8KSAtos-dk&t=25
>>
>>7636092
maybe. will want to add a moisture trap though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1uhav8qHvxY
>>
>>7634987
>general artist acrylics
>creamy paints
>pasty paint
Just get some airbrush paints, you shouldn't be airbrushing those. They are really not expensive, like $2-$3 for your basecoat?
I mean if you get good results with what you have go ahead.

If you are set on using hardware varnish do transfer it from the spray can to your airbrush first.
>>
>>7635063
I think it varies heavily with the year.
>>
>>7635815
Newer kits have more detail, better fitting and are easier to build. In other words you will get a better model with less effort.
The only advantage of vintage kits is cost.
>>
>>7636092
that should do pretty good. Be sure the connections are the same as the airbrush.
You will need a moisture trap if it doesn't have one.
>>
>>7636092
>Do I need any type of adapters or anything
yes. your airbrush hose has most likely a 1/4 thread, you compressor has something bigger.
>>
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is this shit acrylic or lacquer? it smells like neither.
>>
>>7636998
MrHobby stuff is, well, more on the lacquer side at least. Their thinner's considered a lacquer thinner, and I strongly doubt you'll get anything good out of trying to thin that stuff with water or alcohol. The thin to keep in mind though is that acrylic/lacquer/enamel aren't all that strictly defined, so the chemistry can vary a good deal from one paint maker to another.
>>
>>7636998
It says acrylic on there.
>>
>>7636998
Lacquer. Their paints contain toluene.

Tamiya acrylics contyain isobutanol.
>>
>>7637085
I'm not entirely sure how that stuff works but it literally say "components: Acryl" on the jar.
>>
>>7636998
You really will want to thin it with leveling thinner.
>>
>>7636667
>>7636680
>>7636989
Thanks friends.

So a 1/4 to 1/8 (or whatever the Iwata Neo has) converter and a moisture trap should be everything I need?
>>
>>7637356
Also where is the best place for the moisture trap/filter? Between the 1/4" hose and 1/8" hose? Between the compressor and the 1/4" hose?
>>
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>>7637366
wherever is fine really. Some people like to place it directly into the airbrush and use it as a handle, or place it before the hose to keep it lighter. Just wherever you can /fits.
>>
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>>7637356
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>>7637456
Jesus Christ do I really need all this!?
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>>7637478
you literally do not need anything other than food, water, shelter, sunlight, and the odd human interaction.
>>
>>7637478
no
>>
>>7637478
would probably be cheaper to bite the bullet and get a cheap starter airbrush setup on amazon.
>>
>>7638191
They come with those shitty chinese airbrushed that get really hot after half an hour. I'd recommend a shop compressor
>>
>>7638265
I meant compressors
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>>7638265
I've never had a problem with mine, but I've never needed to use it for more than 10-15 minutes, but my method is to spray on a layer/coat and let that cure overnight before trying to add masking tape to do other colors. I find that works best with Vallejo air paints, which are my preferred choice.
>>
>>7638450
Dunno, man. I bought an as-186 compresson in 2013, used it a few times and returned it. The thing got real hot real fast. Been using 24L shop compressor since
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You don't need a powerful compressor unless you are planning to airbrush with toothpaste.
I have a cheap chink no brand compressor, it is 8 years old and it still works, what the fuck are you all doing
>>
>>7638558
Having long paint sessions. And spraying at about 25-30 psi
>>
>>7638558
Define cheap "cheap chink no brand compressor".
I have gotten two of those, one really small sold as "nail and cake decoration" and now bigger one with a tank. Both chinese no brands.
I can tell having a tank really makes a BIG difference, now I can make highlights and stuff and not only basecoats. Also the small one started making funny noises after a while and vibrate itself apart.
>>
>>7638566
I run 30 PSI for basecoating with my basic Chinese compressor (the "AS186" with tank). And that without it being noisy enough to make me go look for some ear plugs, contrary to many a shop compressor.
>>
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Gundam markers, yay or nay?
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>>7638741
Good for bare plastic

poor for lining paint coated surfaces

3/10, its a poor modellers tax to make their models look less like a toy. Wasted effort to learn in my opinion
>>
>>7637317
regular lacquer thinner(+MEK) will not do?
>>
>>7637356
>>7636989
> a 1/4 thread,
oh shit, I meant to say 1/8.
>>
>>7638659
Defining................
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>H-O-L-E technology
You now know that italeri made some good decisions 40 years ago
>>
>>7638558
>You don't need a powerful compressor
Can your compressor drive a spray gun? Yeah, thought so.
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>>7638659
I got this one, 15-25 psi it is for nail decoration
No tank, it is stupid simple and it just werks
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>>7638566
>25-30 psi
Is this some high level modelling technique I've never heard of?
>>
>>7638831
I don't follow you, are these workable? They look weird to me.
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>>7639006
They're vinyl
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>>7638558
I already have the shop compressor for my brad nailer and other stuff so buying an overpriced hobby compressor or chinkshit doesn't make sense.

I got it figured out. Based Iwata made one end of their hose 1/8 for connecting to the airbrush and 1/4 for connecting to compressors so I didn't need to buy anything else.

Keep your chinkshit.
>>
>>7638848
are you painting the nimitz in 1:2?
>>
>>7638848
Bro I get you're trying to sound cool with your BIG BOY SPRAY GUN but what the fuck are you using a spray gun for, you overcompensating cunt
>>
>>7638924
Probably. Care posting some of your models?
>>
Do you guys visit model shows/exhibitions?

I'm going to a small private military museum tomorrow which hosts a scale model exhibition every year.
Hopefully i can find some nice discounted kits at one of the trader stands.

https://www.modelltage-stammheim.de
>>
>>7639512
There's a modelling show happening every year on May here
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>>7639512
I go to the yearly local one to have a look, more at the built kits than the sellers though. I'm not much of an impulse shopper.
>>
>>7638741
Good for filthy gundam casuals.
You can get ten times better results with tamiya panel line.
>>
>>7638890
I used to have one just like that one, and it did good for years, it works, but after changing to >>7638806 with a tank I am never coming back.
It comes smoother and the pressure regulator makes a surprisingly big difference.
>>
>>7639512
I might go to ArmorCon this year as I'm about an hour or two away. Maybe I'll even enter the MBV-2 if I can get it done in time
>>
>>7619650
I believe Academy has some modern tanks in 1:48
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>>7625964
Alright, went ahead and tested. Since this isn't mentioned anywhere I'll just dump it here in case someone finds it useful.
It's very thin and clearly meant for airbrush, but if you properly mix before applying and make sure the surface is 100% clean, it can work. First coat looks like shit and a direct second coat will remove it. To avoid this, just I used two coats of acrylic varnish and then applied the second coat of metalcote, and it adhered very well and gave a pretty nice result.
So, needs more work, but can work perfectly with a brush. Now I'm gonna go ahead and use it on a model once I finish my current project.
>>
>>7639512
That's what actually made me get into full model making rather than just gluing kits as some sort of 3D puzzle.
>>
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My current project. I'm almost done chipping, then comes actual weathering.
Let me know what you guys think
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>>7640338
Interesting. Not a big fan of the chipping, though. What's the idea here? If the tank was painted in the 80s it shouldn't be that chipped.
It's tye Emhar kit, right? Decent kit for what it is.
>>
>>7640491
its an air fix kit
the idea was a metaphor of nostalgia, on how the things we lament over things that should have been left in the past but has been adopted by newer newer generations have taken up that mantel.

just kidding i just like vaporvave and heavily weathered things so i figured id be trans formative
>>
>>7640545
Looks pretty neat. I bet those airfix kits aren't all that great. How did you do the chipping? Looks like chipping fluid/hairspray
>>
>>7640552
air fix isn't total shit but i always buy tamiya if i can

just normal chipping fluid from ak. i used a tooth brush and a metal comb to achieve that effect
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>>7640338
It honestly works as something some dumbass hipster fags took spray paint to for some cringy “powerful message”
>>
>>7640261
But did it polish?
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>>7639512
And i'm back. Luckily the weather did hold so all the RC-tanks that were on display outside did not get wet.

I didn't buy much, got a bottle of vallejo water texture and one of these Meng Toon tanks for 10€. These seem to be super popular, basically every exhibitor had one or two of them for display, and all the traders had a couple of them for sale.
>>
>>7640716
Never seen one of those IRL here. I was wondering if anyone actually bought them. Not a fan, t.bh
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>>7640727
I was really surpised as well. There was even a trader who sold resin conversion parts. Like upper a upper hull of a stug 3, to convert the cartoon panzer 3 into one. Or a KV-1 turret for the KV-2 hull.
Really strange.
I'm going to post a pic of mine later.
>>
>>7640611
Yes. I was careful and it gave a very nice shine. Not as good as other products meant for airbrush, but I'm happy with the results
>>
I have this Chinese compressor and it has served me really well so far.
>>
One more highlight from yesterday:
1:1 RC Stug 3 Ausf B. weight 3.5tons.
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>>7642278
amazing what some people can do in their spare time
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>>7642282
I saw a stug that colour. its striking how dark it is. I wonder if that's accurate german grey.
>>
>>7642411
I think it is accurate.
Tanks look alot brighter if they are dusted from driving over unpaved roads.
>>
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>here's your tracks bro
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>>7642725
Cut them into segments. That's how I deal with Zvezda tracks. How the kit?
>>
>>7642738
Looks like the 1/72 revell leopard 2a5
>>
>>7642756
>>7642738
close, it's the a6. It's ok for a 1/72 scale kit, nothing spectacular but I picked it up to make my first diorama, but with these tracks we'll see if it looks presentable when finished
>>
>>7642756
Shit. I can't even type right today. I was asking for personal opinion about the kit. And that's the Leopard 2A6M because it has the bottom armor plate
>>
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>>7642725
>tell me more brah
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>>7641794
Nice, good job anon.
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>>7642185
I have the exact same one, works seamlessly.
>>
>>7642278
>>7642282
Neat, love the look of those tracks.
>>
Built my new Meng cartoon Panzer 3 and gave it a basecoat in dunkelgelb.
Building it was super easy, i would definitively recommend these kits for kids and beginners.

pic related, a quick comparison with a proper Panzer 3.
>>
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>>7644475
Should attach a pic..
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>>7644477
What the fuck is that?
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>>7644510
This.
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>>7644560
Meng's WWT tanks are pretty small, BTW. That, coupled with a lot of fragile bits and their need of glue(despite being sold as no-glue snapkits) they can be hard to assemble. I also suspect the line is dead, we've heard nothing after the 12 main tanks, 3 "pinky" toon recolors and the Santa recolor tank. In fact I think the Santa tank last Christmas and the pinky reissues with figurines were the last ones announced.
>>
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>AMX-13/75
>1/72
Heck yeah
>Ace
God damn
>>
>>7642411
If anything, it's a bit too bright. IIRC the "correct" german grey was nearly black when new.
>>
>>7636092
I use a senco like this, also i don't really think a moisture trap is necessary unless you're airbrushing in a humid garage or something. I airbrush in doors, never used a moisture trap and use a compressor similar to this, never had any issues.
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>>7638741
I like my real touch ones but they're just for simple and easy weathering. You will of course not get the same result as with proper weathering.
>>
>>7619254
Would you recommend the T-Model M1 Abrams?
No one has posted unboxing images and/or videos, let alone build it.
>>
>>7645751
The tusk one was pretty good, I would expect it to be basically the same.
>>
>>7645751
Flyhawk's better
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>>7633377
And the stuff is here
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>>7645751
Personally I have tiger model in high regard but for 1/35 armor, no idea about 1/72. I would go for it as 1/72 is cheap and relatievely quick so it wouldn't be a huge take back unlike going balls deep on a ship for example
>>
>>7646462
Those are a lot of smoke dischargers (?)
>>
I watch a lot of model making videos and I have a question about airbrushing. Why do people seem to do a mottled spray instead of evenly spraying and working your way down for an even coat. visually what is the difference? https://youtu.be/c5XPUYIfEgo?t=1180 for example. I am just a normal brush user, no airbrush, so I dont get it.
>>
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>>7646988
Really makes ya think
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>>7646988
The real reason for all those methods (mottled, preshading, highlights, etc) is to make your kit look more interesting and visually attractive. A plain solid color surface looks boring and you risk the model looking toy like. There is a lot of discussion about which method are accurate to the real thing and other are just artistic.
>>
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I talked in a previous thread about 3D modelling and making the codename colossus Krabbe tank.
I have printed all the part now and everything looks exactly like in the reference foto's.
I will upload better pictures tomorrow when it isn't dark.

Also (where) can you buy scale model machine gun ammo?
>>
>>7647080
that's really cool.
By ammo you mean ammo belts? Depends on the scale, I do know about maxim 1/35 kits around, 1/72 would be more difficult.
>>
>>7646985
Plan on building a few russian tanks. They're pretty cheap so I wondered why not?
>>
>>7647769
Smart, got a link?
>>
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>building Tamiya M4A3
>painted with black primer+tamiya spray can
>spray with testors gloss coat
>start weathering with artist oils
>pic related happens
Who was the culprit? I'm using acetone for thinner
>>
>>7647080
That looks really good. Did you use a resin printer?
>>
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>>7647790
zedval.com
They're based in Russia so check your country's import laws if you don't wanna pay taxes.
The smoke grenade launchers have a bit of a burr on the caps but it's pretty easy to remove. Wish I had a rotary tool, though.
And the antenna bases have a very small hole and I mean VERY small. Something like 0.1-0.2mm. I don't know what I will use for an antenna. Human hair? Any suggestions?
>>
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>>7647819
>I'm using acetone for thinner
Gee, I wonder what could possibly go wrong
>>
>>7647049
thanks
>>
>>7647819
Happens, get a good gloss coat and be sure it is well dried before weathering. Have you tried Odorless Thinner? It's sold at art stores, lot better than acetone
>>
>>7647841
there shouldn't be a problem. Prices are quite competitive too, thanks.
>>
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>>7647841
>Detail parts for 1/72 BTR-T IFV
>There is no BTR-T IFV kit
>>
>>7647819
Acetone is known as an organic solvent, it will literally rip apart organic molecules like in the binder the paint needs to have a hard finish.

This is why it's used as a paint stripper/ cleaner and never as a medium.
>>
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>>7647837
A better picture.

And yes I printed it on the anycubic photon resin printer.
>>
>>7648349
Have you tried doing any conversions for models? Seems like the perfect tool. I've seen guys print masters for casting
>>
>>7648718
Definitely, but I would need a good quality cad model or model it myself. You can't just take a model and print it.
>>
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>>7648749
If you made that thing how hard could it be to cook up some boxy boys from reference pictures?
>>
>>7648797
Probably, but this was just my first ever model and print so I still have a lot to learn. But I would need more reference photos or a name/model.
>>
>>7649032
How hard is it to get into resin 3D printing? Been looking into it and that anicubic printer isn't that expensive and you can print pretty much anything you want.
>>
>>7650312
Not that hard. But it is really messy, you have to wear gloves and use a lot of IPA for everything. This is because the resin is toxic and incredibly sticky.
>>
>>7650747
What resin are you using? From the few videos I've see 1 litre of resin costs more than 150€
>>
>>7650761
Anycubic resin. It is around 60 euros for a kilo, but others are not much money re expensive.
>>
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other than the tracks I have to say the kit went together nicely. Painting 1/72 scale faces is a daunting challange however
>>
>>7651885
>Painting 1/72 scale faces
Don't. Base coat + Dark wash
>>
What is the definitive version of the F/A-18F Super Hornet in plastic model form?
>>
>>7653655
What is using a search engine or reading the fucking OP?
>>
>>7653818
Define "definitive"
Revell's is probably the best, but has some simplified details
>>
What can I thin MrColor Laquer with? Other that their brand thinner?
>>
>>7653655
What scale?
>>
>>7654540
1:72, but any would do.
>>
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>all these fucking retards asking stupid questions and never posting any builds
Great general, guys
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My first build in probably like around 8 years. Still needs decals, chipping, weathering, washes etc. I'm still learning the airbrush so I fucked up the camo quite a bit, paint was too runny. But overall I'm quite pleased with how it has turned out so far.
>>
>>7655066
Not gonna lie. You need to work on airbrushing. Not that mine was better. I haven't completed my Kubelwagen. Great kit, though
>>
>>7655292
The airbrush keeps spraying off-centre all the time, is it the needle? It seems a bit bent on the tip. (Brand new replacement needle, out of the box)
Also I've looked at tutorials but cant seem to get my paints thinned right. What should I use for acrylics? Water? Laquer thinner?
>>
>>7654932
It's ok.
>>
>>7655308
If something that looks like the paint was too thick.
What kind of acrylics are you using? What thinner did you use? Airbrush? PSI?
The basecoat looks good tho
>>
>>7655322
It's really not. How many guys are even posting? Swedish guy hasn't posted in a while, nor has the Spanish/Portuguese guy. All we get is dumbass fucking questions that could be answered by fucking Google but retards want to post them anyways. And they never post any builds. What's the point of this general if people aren't sharing their actual builds?
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>>7655334
but I'm Swedish and I posted my current build yesterday, I might not be that Swedish guy though
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>>7655340
The Leopard 2A6M? I'd like to build a Strv. 122 but they're not available here and I have too many models on my hands as is
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>>7655334
At most I finish between 1 maybe 2 kits a month, I wouldn't expect the finished kit posting rate to be more than 1 every two days, which is about what we have now. It's a slow hobby.
Given that it's obvious most of the content will be questions and opinions, which is what the general is for really. Sure some questions might be basic but nothing to get mad about.
If you want a gallery there are tons of those online, this isn't really suited for that.
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>>7655349
yes, the current leopard isn't going to be Swedish however. I'm fortunate enough to have the hobbyboss strv 122 but I since I read this article I don't dare to build it until I'm willing to put in the prep work
http://www.plasticwarfare.se/2008/03/what-shall-we-do-with-the-hobby-boss-stridsvagn-122/
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>>7655359
I mean we just get the same shit all the time. It's like: what's he best x model on market or what brand paints should I use. These questions are easily answered in any search engine. But posts containing actual build pictures are getting ignored most of the time. I think it discourages builders from posting due to the lack of feedback. I noticed that posts that get a bunch of replies are posts about basic questions.
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>>7654932
nice job making a stupid post without posting a build, dumbass
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>>7655407
I've posted my builds already. What about you?
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>>7655384
I see your point, yes, is hard to get feedback without explicitly asking for it, and many build just do not get any attention. I would encourage anons to take GOOD photos of their finished kits, sometimes photos get posted where you can barely see anything, there is little to comment about it.

To be fair I am happy this isn't like some of the FB groups I follow were absolute trash gets posted and all the replies are dick sucking tier tho. But yeah I guess we are just way too pragmatic in here.
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>>7655334
I mostly post build pics, it's just that progress is slow. This is basically what seems to happen on most model forums, though instead of dumb questions it's some shit about historical accuracy or some trivial complaint that goes on for 3 pages.

Maybe next week I'll get some stuff done on the MBV-2 dio, and I kinda want to get back into the 1/6 T-26
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I'm looking for aircraft acrylics that are better than vallejo air. what would you recommend? gsi creios, mmp,...?
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>>7655822
MrColor are probably the best. You will need either a paint booth or a well ventilated work station to use them tho. Get them from ebay, is the cheapest and easier way.
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>>7655329
Tamyia acrylics and water + some laquer thinner. PSI I choose while brushing to get it about right. (25 and down)
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>>7655334
Where is your picture?
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>>7656680
Never heard of mixing lacquer thinner with water, but if didn't turn into a complete mess it should be ok. I would try 100% thinner o just use Isopropyl alcohol, it's gonna be less toxic and probably a lot better.

Don't know what else, that kind of splatter is due to not enough thinner or a fucked up O-ring on the airbrush.
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>>7656768
Where's yours? I posted over 5 ITT
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>>7656784
>>7656768
Stop it, the discussion is stupid to begin with.
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>>7654932
Post your build faget
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>>7655329
>>7656783

Went with majority thinner and it worked perfectly, thank you. I guess the main issue was I thought the paint was too thin when it was actually too thick. Also the water may cause issues if it's the majority because it doesn't evaporate as quickly as the thinner.
Redid the basecoat and it worked super well now (although the mixed paint was a bit off-colour) Will post results when I redo the camo.
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>>7656856
Glad to hear, looking forward for your new paint job.
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>>7655822
Tamiya and Ammo
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>>7656856
Still not perfect, but I would like to think neither were the free-hand field applied camos. The camera makes the overspray or whatever the 'blending area' between colours is seem a bit worse than it is in real life.
Lessons learned were to thin out the paints hard, angle of airbrush makes a large difference and probably should plan out the camo instead of winging it. But overall I'm rather pleased with the outcome. Not great, not terrible.
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>>7656921
Another angle
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>>7656922
Might as well get the other side too then.
>>
My first Diorama
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>>7656937
Might want to add the picture as well :DDDD
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>>7656921
Good job, an absolute improvement over the first one. Any overspray will probably fade out with washes and varnish, you may try thinning the paint it even more or up the pressure next time to reduce them some more. Kinda tricky with free-hand camos since one would try to get full coverage with a single layer but it can be done.
Gonna gloss it next?
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>>7656947
I'll give it a coat or two of Tamyia varnish and move on to weathering, not sure when I have the time though.
Should I try and get as many hand-painted details in under the varnish as I can or leave them to the end? Also decals. Best to apply on varnish and cover with additional varnish?
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>>7655822
Acrylics that you can thin with water or any type of paint? You mentioned lacquers there.
Thinned with lacquer thinner you can shoot "pure" acrylics (Vallejo and ammo work) and obviously lacquers and Tamiya """"""acrylics"""""". If you don't want to deal with expensive ass thinners, fumes, clean up, etc and already tried Vallejo I would go for ammo.
Muh personal preference is gaianotes and Mr color lately but Vallejo and ammo are my go to for water based ones
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Masterbox 1/72 British Mark I
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>>7657120
Looks a bit boring. I know they didn't have any markings but you could have been more creative with painting and weathering. Having said that it's a decent build. Have one of those myself but a Female variant. Still haven't finished it, though. Mine had some pretty shitty tracks so I had to get new ones. What about yours? They look fine from the picture.
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>>7657120
looks good to me, but the tracks need weathering
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>>7651885
>Painting 1/72 scale faces is a daunting challange however
trick with 1/72 is you don't need to do much more than to add layers of colours for shading and highlighting to bring out the model's natural details. Precision isn't as important as in 1/35 or even 28mm, multiple layers add more effect
basecoat reddy/orangey brown
90% cover coat of basic skintone
highlight raised points if visible (nose ridge, brow ridge, cheekbones, chin) with lighter skintone
wash with orangey/reddy light brown wash (citadel's reikland or seraphim are nice IMO for this)
rehighlight 60% (or drybrush) with the basic skintone
lighter skintone highlight again (drybrush or very fine points)

You can highlight in as many sequential layers as there are visible points of detail on the model to highlight. Certain features like cheekbones and knuckles can be created with optical illusions just by painting different shades, but overall on such a small model if there's any detail it's just creating optical illusion of depth through shading to get the effect of depth
Overall you can get a decent effect just by adding more layers however hapharzadly you want. if you can do it with precison it's just a bonus
oil paints are more effective than acrylics for faces but I dunno if it's worth it for 1/72
maybe you could save a step or two
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>>7657673
>oil paints are more effective than acrylics for faces but I dunno if it's worth it for 1/72
they're not. surface is way too small to blend them properly. just have a steady hand and layer the shit out of them.
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>>7657680
Yeah, you're probably right on that front. I've never tried oils on 1/72 or even 1/28, and even just go with acrylics on 1/35 more often than not.
I imagine a few well-placed straight lines or dots (brow, nose ridge, cheekbones, chin, knuckles) creates as much visual depth as a far higher grade of 1/72 figure sculpting on crappier 1/72 figs.
But then again I got a magnifying headband as soon as I started 1/72 along with a teeny brush and I have to say it's the only way I could do 1/72 as anything other than smeary blobbing.
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>>7657709
*28mm
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>>7633272
So I posted about this kit a while back and the anon that told me they weren't great was spot on. The plastic was wonky and the instructions weren't super clear about certain parts, especially the engine. The fit was meh to bad, interior bucket was especially poor, requiring aggressive sanding to fit.
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>>7657724
I primed it yesterday, pics were prior to clean up and prime, so painted pics hopefully to follow. I haven't done a car kit in years so I'm super nervous about screwing up the masking and painting
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>>7657731
>>7657724
well hopefully your granddad's actual car goes better
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>>7657738
God I hope so.
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>>7656967
I usually handpaint those details that I am sure I will not fuck up. Decals over the gloss coat.
If you are doing a second gloss coat (not really necessary, but not a bad thing to do) you may paint fine details in between them, that lets you clean up mistakes and imperfections.
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>>7657273
this.
>>
Turned out ok I guess. Way too weathered to be realistic and I really, really need to learn how to paint with lighter layers.

Also, need to not ever use future as a gloss coat between paint layers ever again.
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>>7657843
>Also, need to not ever use future as a gloss coat between paint layers ever again.
why mate?
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>>7657070
>You mentioned lacquers there.
wat? gsi have aqueous.
>gaianotes
are lacquers...
>Thinned with lacquer thinner you can shoot "pure" acrylics (Vallejo and ammo work)
what fucking planet are you on. since when can you thin vallejo with lacquer?!?!
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>>7657848
Because it can sometimes cause the paint layered over it to "crack," which is cool if that's teh effect you're going for but not so much for what I was aiming for originally.
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>>7657861
weird. i'm using similar product for years and nothing like that ever happened. are you sure you haven't sprayed too much of it?
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>>7656861
>Ammo
that's weird, even Mig Jimenez says that vallejo has better pigments than ammo.
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>>7657872
I think using too thick of a layer is 100% my problem. I can't seem to get the hang of applying light layers of paint with an airbrush, but at least the paint still looks relatively smooth and desu in the end it made for a cool effect since I was painting over alclad aircraft aluminum.
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>>7657878
tried to use the salt method to add nice chipping but was way too much.

Also, apparently early war IJN aircraft wouldn't have had much, if any chipping or exhaust/fuel/oil stains because the ground crews were meticulous about keeping them clean.
>>
If I'm using testors spray cans, how long should I let a coat dry before masking for another color?
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>>7657889
Best bet for any type of paint is probably at least 24 hours. Some guy at the local shop said he waited several days between coats of paint.
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>>7657893
>Waited several days
Fugg. Is that really necessary, or is he just waiting extra long just to be safe?
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>>7657902
Probably to be safe. To be fair, he was also talking specifically about alclad which is a fancy type of lacquer that results in really nice metallic effects.
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>>7657909
Well, I'll give it about 2 hours then run a test with some masking in a discreet area. If that fails I'll paint color 2 tomorrow
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>>7657861
Has happened to me. Either too wet of a layer of the base paint wasn't well dried. I now usually apply a light coat and then a regular one to avoid that.
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>>7657893
>>7657909
Just make sure is completely dry, Not only dry to the touch. You can speed things up with a hair dryer
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>>7657873
Works fine for me. Kinda switching to Tamiya at the moment
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>>7657861
>>7657843
you should have just dried the paint for a day.
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Guess what Soviet tank i'm building!
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>>7658855
t-72
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>>7656921
>>7657751
I fucked up a bit with decals, did them before the reply. Only had hardware gloss on hand and didnt want to use that. Next time def going to gloss before decals. It's not catastrophic, but had one decal misaligned and others had small raised bits over panel lines. Otherwise I'm pretty happy with the overall outcome. The dust layer is a bit heavy and had a few places with visible brush strokes, but I'm pleased with it for a first build.
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>>7658860
Also cut off the plastic attachment point for the shovel, so made one out of wire instead. Really damn hard to work with so small details at this scale, props to all those who make wire handles etc.
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>>7658861
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>>7658862
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>>7657850
>the absolute state of this thread: the post
Thanks for remembering me why I don't come here anymore. I concur with >>7655334 anon plus the lost art of bullying brainlets and newfrens has taken a toll here.
Aqueous is alcohol based. Like tamiya acrylics, their water based claim is by a part of the binder of the pigments is water soluble based and allows you to clean them up with water and if you're willing to put up with the result thin them the same way that you can with tamiya, and I never see anyone running to do that ever never nor should you. Also read the label and then try to ship one of these by plane waterboy.
>>gaianotes
>are lacquers...
And? I started saying they are my personal preference, should you want to try more stuff, unless I wanted pure water based paints, in which case I still recommend vallejo or ammo. Reading comprehension isn't that hard.
>what fucking planet are you on. since when can you thin vallejo with lacquer?!?!
In the high IQ planet it seems. Pic related is vallejo 70.857 thinned with tamiya lacquer thinner.
>Why use lacquer thinner?
It runs smoother than with acrylic thinner and lays down much better, also in hot and slightly humid weather (near the sea for example) it behaves closer to pure lacquers and you can work with faster drying times
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>>7658865
Ayy, haven't seen you in a minute. Where have you been? Built anything new in the meantime?
Where did you find out about paint thinning with Tamiya lacquer thinner? I saw it at themodellingnews and have been using it ever since. Now I get much better results
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>>7655382
Hope Meng releases one in the future. They released the 2A7+ so why not the Strv. 122? I'd also like the Danish 2A5DK with their specific tracks
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>>7658927
Yo, been building
>Fag(s)
And the little armory weapons so not exactly thread related. Also in general I've been building less and moved to Instagram so I can stalk the pros and their builds but once the honeymoon phase wears out I'm not a huge fan of the whole likes thing and whoring out but whatever.
Blog posting aside I've started the flyhawk prince of Wales that had sitting forever in the stash, I was a bit worried about the construction as I'm not familiar with ship building but so far has been strangely smooth and entertaining, the painting part we'll see. Also I've smashed the pe radar antenas twice so I need to be more fucking careful handling the finished work as it doesn't matter how delicate and nice are the details if they end crumbled once finished...
About thinning with lacquer I remember reading about it in some random paint review in armorama or britmodeler but I also saw it on themodelingnews so I thought why not trying it and it works really well and I recommend at least trying it out to others
>>7658932
I think they should as it's one of the most popular leo variants, I would dare to say that even more than the a7+ so I hope they notice that and make it
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>>7658997
I've been holding off finishing building my MSTA. I just need to make this wire thing for probably holding the front fenders but I have no motivation at the moment. Plus I want to get into airsoft and I'm trying to sell some of the models from my stash. No one seems to be interested locally so I guess I'll have to put them up on ebay
>>
>muh new phone posts images sideways
Disappointing
>>7659014
I know that lack of motivation to do a certain step that stalls the whole thing. I have a chieftain mk10 sitting around primed but for the life of me I can't even be arsed to lay the first layer of the Berlin brigade scheme so I put it back on the box again and again. Funny thing is that I know the moment I start painting it would just snowball the rest so the difficult part is starting desu.
>Airsoft
I used to play years ago, pretty fun if you play with the right people. Not sure if the gas blowback craze its still going on but I recommend to stick with electric ones for less bullshit while playing. Good luck selling your stuff
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>>7659044
Played a game with my conscription buddies last week. Was pretty fun. Why did you stop?
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>>7659047
Mostly starting uni and the guys I used to play with some moved out or were too busy so I didn't bother looking out new frens to play. Sold most of the stuff but maybe I'll try again some day
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>>7658997
Nice to see another PoW getting built, seemed like we were quite a bunch here who bought her around release.
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>>7658860
Dark wash?
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>>7658997
Was about to contact you directly.
How did you paint the wood furniture on your LA RPK?
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>>7659633
I was thinking about yours and wanted to ask if you used a wood deck. I remember the Mikasa having one and it looks really fine but I can't remember if you used one on the prince, I'm thinking of ordering one as 16€ on eBay seems fair for the result but it might get here in September so I'm not sure if I wanna wait.
I'm eyeing the flyhawk 1/700 Bismarck too as it's 40€ the deluxe version which is a steal if it's the same quality as the pow
>>7659760
Base color>veins(darker and lighter than base color)>base color highly diluted (think like a filter)>weathering if any with oils or whatever you fancy
In the case of the rpk and the pkm I used Mr color 8 as it's a nice orange Brown as a base color (good enough imo if you don't wanna bother with woodgrain or doing Bakelite), then with some Vallejo dark brown and a light one did the veins, then the base color airbrushed on top very light to unify all (be careful if you use lacquers on top of acrylics as they can melt them if you don't know what you're doing). Seal with satin varnish and then weather it, in this case I used heavily thinned black and light brown acrylics as a sort of glaze and dirt beacuse I needed control and fast drying and felt comfortable with the brush but you can do it with oils or whatever you're more comfortable with
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>>7659870
Perfect, thanks a lot for the explanation. After seeing your the photos I had to replicate it but had no idea how to do it. Gonna give it a try.
By Mr color 8 could you mean 07? or their AVC08? Also any tip for Bakelite mags?
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>>7659907
Sorry, Mr color 7 (gloss brown). I was thinking about other stuff. About the mags I would use 7 with maybe a bit of yellow for the orange Bakelite but unless I start mixing and trying around I can't say for sure, then a wash. I guess you could try to reproduce the waves of the polimer too but I don't think it can be well done at that scale. Perhaps dabbing gently a yellowish base color and then glazing might be a way to do it, might try it when I get some akm
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>>7660011
Alright, I'll give it a try, thanks a lot.
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>>7637138
could be acrylic resin dissolved by lacquer/toluene.
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>>7659747
Did do diluted black liner on some parts, but felt like washing the whole model would have been an overkill.
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What's the best method for sanding away filler without sanding away the model surface?

Moth unrelated
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>>7660174
Fuck off
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>>7660174
Don't sand the model surface, only the filler.
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>>7657724
Masked and sprayed it. The color came out way darker than the can and was entirely too thick. It pulled away from some of the high spots as it dried, leaving thin spots. It also ran under the masking in a few places. I sprayed the frame and underside of the car with the same brand but in black and had no issues with thickness or runs. Infact the black went on excellent and dried smooth and even. I have no idea what I did wrong with the metallic blue.
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>>7660462
What can I do to both fix this layer and avoid runs and pooling on the second coat of this color? Not to mention the secondary metallic color that the lower half and fenders are going to be
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>>7659870
The Prince had to make do without a wooden deck, I got some deck masks instead since there were plenty of decks that should be dark grey instead of wooden, and doubling up on the purchases seemed a tad much.
And I'm pretty damn certain I'll get the Bismarck too some day, though before that gets to the top of the ship building cue...
>>
>>7660466
You painting from a can? I recommend really fast and thin layers, don't ever try to get coverage with a single layer, even less with metallics.
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>>7661547
I am painting from a can. I was trying to do multiple thin layers but when I sprayed it came out thick and goopy leading to one thick layer. Like I said, the same brand of pain was used for the frame and underside of the car with no issues. I'm not sure why this color went so wrong
>>
I'm having an issue with finding good standing sticks or rather finding what sticks I'm using in a better form

I picked up a pack of Albion alloys sanding sticks which are all thin and mutipacked. I found the yellow and blue ones took away the right amount while sanding so I picked up some sheets of sandpaper the same grit but they're way coarser. The sticks don't leave marks but the paper does. So I look at buying the sticks whole but the packs they sell don't match the muktipacks. The grits are all off.

What the hell do I do? 320 grit sand paper is insane to use but 320 grit stick is perfect. What's going on?
>>
>>7661571
Metalic paint usually made different than other paints, even on the same brands. Make sure to shake it really really well before spraying. If it comes out too thick spray a bit further away and pre-heat the can letting it rest on some hot water.
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>>7661676
Grit is just one variable. Sandpaper is dirt cheap, next time you hit the hardware store buy a bunch of them in different grits. Even better if you can find some wet sanding paper.
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>>7661807
I don't venture into those much. None near me so I need to order online
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>>7661802
I'll try these suggestions when I apply the second metallic color. Thanks man
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>>7624142
My AT-ST
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>>7662375
Another of mine: The Battlestar Galactica
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>>7662375
>>7662388
One more: My Hasegawa F-16CJ
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>>7662375
>>7662388
>>7662395
Those are pretty neat. Have the AT-ST in my stash. How was the build?



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