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File: maschinen krieger.jpg (1.13 MB, 1549x1037)
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For those unfamiliar, "Plamo" is a shortened form of "plastic model." If it's made of plastic, someone can probably help you here.

>"If you're new, you're gonna fuck up. Don't worry! If you're experienced, don't make the new people worry!"

***READ THE GUIDE***

IRC Channel
>Server
Rizon
>Channel
#gunpla

The guide:
http://gunpla.buyfags.moe/

Releases: http://bandai-hobby.net/site/schedule_images/nouhin.pdf

And a handy guide to other types of plamo:
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20(Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step).pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com

Some line art:
http://seesaawiki.jp/nuriesozai/lite/d/MenuBar1


Previous thread: >>7569170
>>
New Group Build!

Oddball Color Schemes

So the oddball color schemes won in the poll, so we're gonna run with that. What counts as an oddball color scheme? Stuff like vapor wave, the 90s cup, leopard print, Louis Vitton, or generally anything that's odd.

Due by: September 5th.
Email to: gunplasecretsanta@gmx.us
>>
>op image is some lost /m/utant and not my build
I'm out
>>
>>7578814
Not your hugbox
>>
>>7569445
Depends on if you plan to paint on not.

As other anons suggested, washes are good if you plan to paint, using very diluted thinner and a pointed cotton swab to clean excess.

If you DON'T plan to paint, you can use a very fine tip gray or black sharpie and some medical alcohol prep pads to clean excess
>>
>>7578812
Sounds like good summer fun.
Could be worth doing the pre-90s build straight after this one since it seemed popular in the poll.
>>
>>7578814
Good.
>>
>>7576713
>>What are some things I can do with it
>You can recast clear parts but you will have to make the molds first.
>You can pour it into a limited space of some sort to simulate water or glass or some other shiny transparent stuff.


I want to use UV resin to recast some greebles and paint over it, will it work?

And does UV resin cure properly with those translucent oyumaru molds? Like if I make a two-part mold with oyumaru and make it as thin as I can make it without deforming?
>>
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>Tfw you remember bandai is making toy story model kits.
>>
>>7579009
Yes, it will work. And yes, it will cure. But be very careful making it thin, I have had bad warping issues with too-thin molds before. If your piece is relatively thin/small, you might not even need to make a translucent mold, you might be able to get enough UV light in there just from the top alone to cure it.
>>
>>7578812
>Oddball
I have just the thing
>>
>>7578812
Are you allowed to have two entries or is it obnoxious?
>>
>>7578812
That will be fun
>>
>>7579341
More the merrier
>>
>>7579341
Yeah there's no prize this time around so feel free.
>>
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Oh my fucking god this is hell, who the fuck think that shoulder joint was a good idea?
It halfway breaking for me, please send help.
>>
>>7579512
why did you wrap trash bags around his elbows?
>>
>>7579321
So far I've considered spare ankle guards on the Grimoire. Lost one.
>>
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>>7579529
Because i'm a retard that didn't think far ahead, oh well, if push comes to shove i will just buy a 2nd kit and replace broken parts.
>>
>>7579512
I broke the left shoulder on mine completely, but it's barely noticeable with all the armor on and some glue. Don't worry too much anon.

And have fun with those candy wrapper limbs.
>>
>>7578812
>the 90s cup

Has anyone actually done this?
>>
>>7579969
Hopefully only on a Thunderbolt suit since the pattern is known as Solo Jazz.
>>
>>7579538
That's a relatively complex piece, might need a 2-part mold.
>>
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So, I'm new to seam welding and wanna try to dip my toes for the first time. If I understand correctly, my process would be to apply cement to the edges and pegs on the part (I have Tamiya quick-dry), snap it together, then sand the exposed seams with a high-grit sandpaper until they are no longer visible, correct? Please let me know if I'm mistaken or missing any steps here.

Also, will a matte topcoat generally hide the scuffing from seam welding? I'm not really at the "fully painting" stage yet, I'm just a detail painter.
>>
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Has anyone here ever built one of the old Dorvack Powered Armors?
>>
>>7580284
You'll want to wait a few seconds (20 seems right for Tamiya extra thinn) before fully mating the pieces to let the cement attack the plastic. After that, let your piece dry and cure; you may want to devise a way to keep the pieces under compression during that process, maybe using a binder clip or rubber bands depending on shape. I haven't actually found the last bit to be much issue on Koto or Bandai kits, though; the pieces stick together well enough alone.

As for sanding, do so situationally and work your way up. I usually start with 360 unless the seam goes through a delicate area. You can also cut the flash off and skip your lowest grit sometimes. If you're sanding right, there won't be any more scuffing than you normally get from nub removal, so topcoat will cover that. Trick is, seam welding sometimes leaves behind discoloration, and there's nothing you can do about that without painting.
>>
Question for those who repaint their kits. I was wondering if anyone knew what grit of sandpaper would be best for prepping parts for a paintjob and not leave visible scratches afterwords? Also if acrylic paints through an airbrush followed with varnish to seal it up would work fine or if it's not as simple as that?
>>
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>>7579254
>implying they don't look cool
besides, Bandai is already doing model kit figures with their Figure Rise models of Dragon Ball figures and Gundam waifus
I wonder if they push more into them and try to position Figure Rise as an alternative to figma/Revoltech
>>
Just popped £100 on an RG Sazabi and some discounted origin kits.

Anyone else made some rash decisions on the hlj sale yet?
>>
>>7580730
>Figure Rise as an alternative to figma/Revoltech
I'd be open to this. I'm not afraid to snap my own, Figma prices have gone insane and I'm often not a fan of the joints they use.
>>
>>7580736
The only things I'm seeing that I'm even interested in are the RG 00 and Sazabi. That's not enough to make me do anything rash and I already have a decent backlog and other hobby stuff to buy.
>>
>>7580840
>Sazabi
Make that Sinanju. Still.
>>
>>7580709
For sandpaper i would say
400
600
1000
and painting it's
primer
paint
varnish
>>
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>>7578812
The indian camo pattern is weird but not weird enough
>>
>>7581047
damn, that's one of the best disruptive camos I've ever seen
>>
>>7581047
I dunno, that's pretty weird. I wouldn't reject that honestly.
>>
>>7581047
I'd say this and dazzle camo would fit.

However traditional camo or designs that wouldn't look out of place in their source material wouldn't count.
>>
>>7581203
but we already had a dazzle camo groupbuild.....
>>
>>7580284
>>7580312
>Trick is, seam welding sometimes leaves behind discoloration, and there's nothing you can do about that without painting.
My experience is that the discoloration comes from the fact the vast majority of cements have some amount of 'filler' in them. This means they are leaving behind clear/white plastic when they evaporate alongside the normal color plastic.

Lower percentage of filler, lower amount of discoloration. As far as I am aware, only stuff to have 0% filler is from the Mr.Hobby brand. But I could be misremembering that, haven't used it myself yet. Issue with 0% filler is the pure solvent can't really be used to fill in gaps as easily, but you can fix that with using shavings of the sprue for the parts mixed in the solvent.

On that note, I have had good success avoiding discoloration simply by using the sprue shaving technique with normal extra thin solvents.
>>
>>7581063
>>7581047
At first I laughed, then my eyes started hurting as I tried in vain to figure out the actual outlines of the damn things. Perfect camo for an armor formation.
>>
>>7581240
>Sprue shaving technique
Mind elaborating?
>>
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Can i call my messy panel lines weathering?
>>
>>7581047
the bright green angles do a good job breaking the tank's silhouette
>>
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>>7581232
Does this count as dazzle?
>>
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>>7581308
you tell me
>>
>>7581258
Just add rust and call it a day
>>
>>7581047
India: I fucking hate aesthetics, but I love not being seen.
>>
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>>7580730
>Figure Rise as an alternative to figma/Revoltech
Sure looks that way to me.
The new Kamen Riders already look like a good alternative to SHF. Night and day difference with the Rider Build that came out just a year ago.
>>
>>7580730
Anon, I posted a pic of the smiling face. I'm looking forward to them. Especially after seeing how well they did with Ayame and how it looks like they're going to bringing their A game for the kits.
>>
>>7581240
Why does sprue goo from Kotobukiya runners get discolored(both ABS and PS ) except for fleshtone ones? Am using pure acetone as solvent.
>>
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What are some protag /antag suit kits you guys would recommend to gunpla initiate, but has some moderate experience with customs and beginner experience with plamo like little armory and those medabots kits?
>>
>>7581577
any RG are pretty simple build, especially Zeta
>>
>>7581599
I see it's on hlj's sale, what MG would you recommend?
>>
>>7581619
MG is dead, don't invest in MG now because you won't get anything that matches it in the future
>>
>>7581599
After looking at some reviews I'm not sure if you were tricking me or not, some say it's a pretty good kit but not beginner friendly while others basically sum it up as a "hand grenade".
>>7581630
Dead as in no new releases, right? Bummer, I've seen some in person and I liked their size, the HGs and RGs feel mostly tiny to me
>>
>>7581630
>don't invest
This post is dickballs
>>
Building MG Jegan, noticed it has no polycaps.

Was this a smart or dumb decision?
>>
Word of advice: Never ever use Wicked Colors airbrush paints. Even with the reducer it recommends, hell even with undiluted paint thinner, that shit clogged my airbrush so bad I had to buy a brand new tip because even after an hour of cleaning, I couldn't unclog the old one. Shits terrible
>>
>>7581719
Just don't transform the zeta and you're good.
>>
>>7581740
Depends on the plastic that was used to make it. Have the Sinanju construction compoletely omitted polycaps and the things still solid as a rock after 5 years.
>>
>>7581740
no polycaps seems to be getting more popular
Moon Gundam and F91 2.0 didn't have any either, still hold up well
>>
>>7581905
Even the original MG F91 used no polycaps and actually touted it as a selling point.
>>
>>7581461
Wonder how much of this is actual color separation and how much is sticker nightmare.
>>
>>7581719
>Dead as in no new releases, right? Bummer, I've seen some in person and I liked their size, the HGs and RGs feel mostly tiny to me
Don't take the bait anon. If you want a good MG you can't go wrong with most of the AU Gundam designs, past that more modern is better for everything else. Easier if you list what you might be interested in than running down good kits honestly.
>>
What MG Zaku should i buy?
>>
>>7582221
The most recent one.
>>
>>7582221
Any MG Zaku II using the 2.0 frame is good. Some have their particular little quirks (like, Hi-Mobility Zakus are always gonna have limited knees just due to their design) but they are all generally solid.
>>
>>7582174
I should've known to not take things as truth after the other reply. I like early UC stuff, most notably the Amuro and Char suits, some grunts maybe. A Wing and Tallgeese with some Leos would be nice too
>>
>>7582221
Psycho ver. ka
>>
>>7582251
You mean the seed one that just open for PO?
>>7582268
Ah okay, is it just me or zaku doesn't have much details compare to other MG gundams
>>7582277
That one is already on my list.
>>
>>7582272
Amuro: most Gundams are good, take your pick between project OYW, 2.0, 3.0 and Origin based on the aesthetics you like most. Origin has the best articulation and features.

Dijeh is an alright RE100 if that interests you instead.

Nu ver Ka is a solid kit apart from the fin funnels being a bit fiddly when stored. Hi Nu ver Ka is amazing.

Char: Gelgoog 2.0's fine, Hyaku 2.0 is great, Sazabi ver Ka is exceptional.

GM Command, Sniper II, Sniper Custom and Jegan are outstanding kits. The Ground Gundams and GM are very dated but I think they're still well engineered and hold up apart from their hands. GM 2.0's decent enough. Zaku II 2.0, Marasai, Hizack and Geara Doga are all solid kits on the antagonist side of things.

Wing TV and Proto Zero are well designed. WZC and Wing ver Ka are dated by comparison, but are alright enough. Tallgeese is pretty good but posing it with the dober gun is fairly frustrating.
>>
Please may I have a HG or MG SUMO?
>>
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>>7582283
Yeah, most early UC MGs don't have a lot of surface detail. They're soooorta kinda replicating the anime look. The internal frames are very complex though, you can go crazy detailing those and just leave some of the armor off!
>>
>>7581630
>MG is dead
I hear this since I started this hobby in 2011
>>
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>>7582318
>Dijeh is an alright RE100

It's a fantastic RE100.
>>
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Is this actually fluorescent, or is the fluorescent just part of the name of the particular shade of blue? I bought it because I saw the kanji for light in the Japanese name of the color, but now I'm sort of second guessing myself.
>>
>>7582525
Shine a blacklight on it and find out (everyone who builds gunpla should have one to see the cool glowy clear plastic effect some kits have)
>>
Non-Modification uses for blue LED unit? My hobby store is stocked with them and i was curious how i could use them.
>>
>>7582538
I don't have any right now, RIP
I don't know why I was asking anyway, I can't send it back I think
>>
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>>7582525
>I saw the kanji for light in the Japanese name of the color
Did you also see the kanji for firefly there? That should've given you a hint.
It is indeed fluorescent, just not as deep a blue as the cap would suggest.
>>
>>7582547
Now that'll look good on the radiators of my edelweiss

Too bad I'll never build it before I die
>>
>>7582547
Oh sweet, thanks anon.
>just not as deep a blue as the cap would suggest.
Good, I'm painting the G-Self's glowy bits that aren't already covered by clear plastic. I was just gonna mix it in with some sky blue paint, but maybe I won't even have to do that.
>>
>>7582555
Edelweiss has radiators? Learn something new every day.
>>
What do you guys think for making an astronaut-like black mirror paintjob? Black>metallic silver>clear black?
>>
>>7582559
>I was just gonna mix it in with some sky blue paint
Mixing doesn't really work on fluorescent paints (at least not for emitted color), it especially doesn't work when you try to mix different fluorescent colors.
>>
>>7582572
I'm gonna pray that it doesn't look like shit when I put it on then.
>>
>>7582575
Blue bits in >>7582547 is how it is going to look under 365nm UV (black light bulb) and under your typical UV LED chinese flashlight (395nm) it is going to look closer to white.
>>
>>7582578
Yeah but I would also like it to look like what I want without the blacklight. Is there any way to lighten the color a little? I just painted it onto a runner and it's definitely darker than what I want. If there's no way to lighten it then I'll just deal with it.
>>
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>>7582572
Fluorescent paints emitted color not being super effected by the base you mix it into can lead to some cool shit
>>
>>7582318
Thanks mate, those are pretty much what I was looking for,one more question, are there any differences between the Unicorn, Sinanju and Astray Red kits?
>>
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>>7582564
the tonk my dude

neco megami device collab when
>>
>>7582525
I know you're not supposed to import chemicals like this, but how risky would it really be to stick some gaianotes paints in a box and ship it home for personal use? I haven't found any way to buy them here in Europe, and I'll be in Japan soon anyway.
>>
>>7582678
No they all use the same bits with little differences. OVA Unicorn has some redesigned parts that allow for a little better articulation, but I believe the new runs of the original Ver Ka have those parts included as well so it shouldn't really matter. Definitely doesn't matter for Sinanju/Red Frame.
>>
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Figure-rise Standard Wargreymon revealed
>>
>>7582771
why do they keep making more, I already am satisfied with Wolpertinger
>>
>>7582771
DTA is not model kits, get that shit out of here. They also should stick to robots, the joints don't really work for human arms.
>>
What's the best place to buy gunpla in Australia?
>>
>>7582920
The internet
>>
So basically the blue bandai led units are worthless?
>>
>>7582920
https://gundamexpressaustralia.com.au/

These guys just started and there are some decent prices if you are in Brisbane
>>
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So I'm repainting a Winning Fumina as a video game character and I can't decide if she should have a shirt like the character does, or if should I keep the swimsuit top. So which looks better?
>>
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To anyone who has built the new MG EX-S Gundam:

I fucked up making the G-Core of the S Gundam, thankfully I'm making EX-S, but did anyone else have trouble with this part that I marked with arrows?

Can I still use the normal G-Core on the Display Stand or do I need the other things on it to look right?
>>
>>7582975
Of course the tummy look better, what kind of gay question is this?
>>
>>7582975
Right.
Only do left if you want it to resemble those prude American edits Japanese games seem to undergo when coming tonthebwest, or if you are a homo.
>>
>>7583012
>>7583019
So if I go with the shirt idea, and make the skirt longer like I had already planned, does that mean I can enter it into the group build because desexualizing an underage girl is weird?
>>
>>7583022
As long as the colour scheme is weird too.
>>
>>7582979
you wouldnt be thinking of parting with those extra S-Gundam parts, would you? Specifically the backpack thrusters?
>>
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I got my model for the group build!
>>
>>7582797
You CAN import them, just not by plane for whatever reason. You'd have to specifically ship via boat. I bought mine from seamodel, which is based in china, so they shipped it to me by plane because china does not give a shit.
>>
>>7582868
Amazing
>>
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The more i read about paint the more confused i become.
This is some complicate shits.
>>
>>7583269
You just have to try my dude
>>
>>7583307
Yeah i know, reading some guide right now to prepare myself first though.
1/ The process is: seam remove -> prime -> paint -> topcoat right?
When do i panel line?
2/ I don't know which color of primer to use
3/ The color guide is weird because different brands have different colors. Do i just have to wing it and mix until i feel it's the right color?
>>
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>>7582283
>>7582392
I honestly love the early gundam designs like the MG Gogg, Zgok, Acguy, Qube, Gyan, etc. I like their simple but utterly unique designs. Each one is clearly part of the same line yet their entire body shape and characteristics are radically different. Their lack of surface detail is also fine by me as I'm not really a big fan of the excessive detail of some models.

However, it is quite strange just how detailed some of the early models were internally or in certain areas. Take the Acguy for instance: It's internal frame is probably as detailed as the MG Ball. Or the Zeong; its a super simple external design but under the skirt is absurdly detailed.

If you really want a ton of detail in an older master grade, I suggest leaving some armor off in strategic places.
>>
>>7583391
Oh and also, mr.color have gloss or no gloss on their paint.
Does it matter at all if you just gonna topcoat it later?
>>
>>7582868
Considering how good the Dragon Ball figures are, especially in terms of color accuracy, I'm quite interested in this.
>>
>>7583114
Looking forward to seeing the paint job you do.
>>
>>7583391
I don't do much myself but what I heard from most people is
prime>paint>gloss topcoat>line>matte topcoat.

At least generally.
>>
>>7583391
1. Generally, yes. You normally panel line after painting and before topcoat ING.
2. Gray is normally fine, though you may want white for lighter colors or black for metallics and other special applications.
3. Color guides are brand specific for the reason you mentioned. There are some "conversion charts," but if you're not buying the recommended brand and color you have to wing it.
>>
>>7583391
1. You got the order correct. If you're using a panel line wash as apposed to a panel lining pen, you should spray a coat or two of gloss topcoat BEFORE panel lining, otherwise the wash will seep into the paint and then mess everything up when you go to wipe the excess.

2. Use gray if you want the finished product to look exactly like the paint you want. Use white if you want it to look lighter.

3. I recommend using Acrysion and Mr. Color. I find they have the specific colors that the color guides call for.
>>
>>7583437
>apposed
I think it's time for bed
>>
>>7583410
I may go for neon again...
>>
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>>7578809
Quick question for you guys- if I brush paint with lacquers, do I still wear a mask, or is that only for airbrushing/rattlecans? I want to make sure I have a long enough life to get through my backlog

Also what filler do you recommend to fill in small holes like in this shoulder pad? Kneadatite is what I've been using but it doesn't carve well after it is set
>>
>>7583530
You don't need a mask if you're handpainting, just don't do it in a confined space with no airflow cause the fumes will make you dizzy
That being said handpainting lacquer kinda sucks cause it dries so fast so you gotta have your thinning ratio and application technique figured out
>>
>>7583182
Lovely, thanks.
>>
>>7583530
Working with solvents you should always wear a mask with A2B2 filters at least.
Depends on what products you handle.
>>
>>7578809
Dose anyone have any advice for a fledgling scratchbuilder?

I’ve bought materials for resin casting, styrene sheets of 0.5 and 2 mm thickness, and a selection of styrene tubes of various diameters.
>>
>>7581047
Damn, at first I thought this shouldn’t work, and then I spent a good thirty seconds trying to figure out the outlines of the tanks.
>>
>>7583788
be sure to properly add vents to the part you're about to mold. Because, man, bubbles, those fucking bubbles.
Apart from that i don't know, just be wild and have fun.
>>
>>7581719
He’s trolling, if you’re starting out I’d recommend something like a post 2008 master grade, Any RE/100 or any HG.

RGs are the least beginner friendly kits you can get.
>>
>>7583796
Ok,my first project is going to be a non transforming optimus prime based on a ww2 dragon wagon, loosely based on pic related
>>
>>7583816
>ww2 dragon wagon
That's really cool, military transports deserve some love too.

You can use clay to roughly shape the figure and more importantly get the proportions right. i would always make a clay(plastiline or monster clay) figure at first. Then use it as a reference.
>>
>>7583831
I was planning on using my siege optimus prime as a reference for proportions and such, I’m actually going to recast the head from him so I can use it on my scratchbuild.
>>
>>7583571
>>7583702
So is this is a yes and no?
I guess I'll just get a mask - Is this the kind of filter you were talking about? When I google A2B2, I get some deathgrips stuff. https://www amazon com/Breath-Buddy-Respirator-Professional-Protection/dp/B01M67SJ0S/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=painting+mask&qid=1560033564&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
>>
>>7583840
P filters are for dust, you have to buy a couple of AB cartridges. The number 1,2 or 3 is the level of protection. The cartridges should be brown/grey.

Even when you work with resin it's almost odorless but there's fumes.

Of course it's not that important if you paint one stuff from time to time, we breath more nasty stuff everyday walking in the streets. But health is more valuable than anything.
>>
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>>7578809
HexaGear commission for a fellow /toy/soldier
>>
>>7583903
alright sorry to bother you again, but the lacquer vapors must be getting me- I cant seem to find an ab cartridge for sale anywhere- is there a name I should search for?
>>
>>7584002
Judging by the link you posted earlier, I'm assuming you're a Burger. I think he's giving you the Bong nomenclature. You want something rated for organic vapor (OV) like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CB3P0QI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_hlg.CbJ5B3N0T
>>
>>7584022
Actually, that's one that's particulate rated, too. If you ONLY want to use this for paint, this one is fine: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BT2SWTE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_yqg.Cb08EC4JH otherwise, I always get one that's P rated too because they can also handle resin dust and pretty much anything else you throw at them.
>>
>>7583840
You should wear a mask when hand painting lacquers, but it's not as necessary as when you are airbrushing.
Lacquers are fucking tough to hand paint though, pic related.
>>
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Retard question, seam removing mean using stuffs like Tamiya thin cement to melt the plastic together right?
How would i take apart the parts then if they melted?
>>
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>>7584055
But how would i paint them then if i don't take apart the parts?
>>
>>7584067
Masking
>>
>>7584034
I love my lacquer paints, they are a bit tricky to hand paint but they can get so much smoother than the acrylics and enamels I used to use.
>>7584032
>>7584022
Alright I purchased a mask and a few filters- thank you guys for the help! Thanks especially for pointing out these are P rated, that will help out with my casts quite a bit. I have one more question- how long do lacquer fumes take to dissipate- is it just until the smell is gone? I guess what I am asking is how long should I leave them in a back room before bringing them into rooms I live in?
>>
How are the Flame Toys Transformers model kits? Been eyeing some of them (especially Starscream and IDW Prime) for some time now.
>>
>>7584000
Thanks doc
>>
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Jesus Rice, aren't these FG Strikes? The local supplier laid out a box of them in a department store for w/ tools for kids to try out.
>>
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>>7584067
I cut the hole of each joint like this then i can snap the parts together after they have been painted.
>>
>>7584332
>Nubs still there
N-Nani?!
Also nah, i'm too much of a pussy to do that honestly
>>
Mg Exia Dark Matter looks fucking sick. Is it a good buy?
>>
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>>7584318
Not FG but Entry Grade, my local distributor has been doing this for a long time. Japan only recently is doing it too but gives away a more sophisticated kit.
>>
>>7584459
Can i get a MG for free? Thanks Bandai.
>>
>>7584463
I'd absolutely hate it if Bandai decided to give away a Zaku II MG as opposed to something good
>>
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>>7584485
>Zaku II MG
Wait, it's bad?
>>
>>7584546
http://dalong.net/review/mg/m03/m03_p.htm
It's very old and it shows
>>
>>7584553
Aw that's a shame, i was planning on buying it because it's a classic.
Is there any hope that they will re-release it as MG like the RX with the origin ver ?
>>
>>7584562
Zaku II 2.0 is just fine.
>>
>>7584565
Oh they are different? Damn, all these names are so confusing
>>
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How's this? Never tried my hand at an RX-78 and found this cheap around here
>>7584565
I suppose Char's Zaku 2.0 is the same but with different colors?
>>
>>7584604
>How's this
Great
>>
>>7584604
That looks like pure sex..
>>
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Uhh guys i don't think the base is handling this too well.

>>7584604
Planning on buying this soon, let me know how it goes.
>>
Man there are too many MG 00 kits, like which one should I buy? 00 Raiser, Seven Sword, Quant or Quant Full Saber?
>>
>>7584699
Not a surprise, that free base is pretty bad at it's job for majority of kits it comes with.I'd suggest buying the stand alone 1/100 action base for it, it'll handle the weight better than that free stand.
>>
>>7584705
Full Saber is a straight upgrade over vanilla Qan[T] although it still has some fragility issues because of its armor purging gimmick.
>>
>>7584714
I wish they also gave it some new hands, i hate the old style 00 hands.
>>
>>7584714
Is it possible to build raiser and seven sword with full saber? I mean the main gundam is the same just with different add-on's.
>>
>>7584725
Seven Sword and Raiser are upgrades for the regular 00, the Qan[T] is a completely different unit, being the final evolution of the Exia/00 line.
>>
>>7584730
K thanks. I thought it'd be like Exia Avalanche dash where you could still build the base unit out of it.
>>
>>7584742
You can build the base 00 from the Seven Sword or Raiser kits, and the base Qan[T] from the Full Saber if you want.
>>
G-Self needs an MG.
>>
>>7584567
get your shit together anon
>>
>>7585035
with an RE Grimoire
>>
>>7585130
With an PG or Mega Size Grimoire*
>>
>>7584564
Fuck the haters. Zaku 2.0 gets all the love but nothing hits quite like these proportions, baby. The colors are bangin too, more saturated than the 2.0.
>>
>>7584098
>How are the Flame Toys Transformers model kits?
Cool looking but stupid as fuck. What kind of "Transformers" Toy doesn't Transform? I mean... What the fuck is the point anymore? Why not just call it Flame Toys "Cool Robot"...
>>
>>7584567
Why the fuck are you even building gunpla if you don't know shit about gundam related things. Are you one of those brainlet kids who buy stuff just because they think it's cool or it looks shiny?
>>
>>7585201
Everyone starts somewhere.

>>7585155
I definitely enjoy the classic Zaku MG's look. The big thing that gets me about all the old MGs are the hands. I used to hate fixed pose hands and now I can't live without a good pair of well molded ones. Accessory generic hands are alright to replace them with, but I wish there were actually a continuation of the B-Club option hands line.
>>
>>7585197
It’s been done before and it will be done again,

if the idea of non-transforming transformers bothers you, then just think of them as plamo representations of characters from the transformers IP, rather than transformers toys in of themselves.

Anyway, it’s not like they’re replacing the mainstream tf toys.
>>
>>7585201
That’s literally how most people start with gunpla, seems ironic that you’re calling others brainlets.
>>
>>7585276
Don't bother, he's just an idiot troll. He understands damn well why they exist, he's just trying to stir up shit.
>>
Hey, is there any hard release date for hexa gear? I can only find stuff by month
>>
>>7585201
Why the fuck do you build gunpla then if it's doesn't look cool? Fucking retard
>>
>>7585497
https://shop.kotobukiya.co.jp/shop/arrival/arrival_schedule.aspx

From what I have seen, the hard dates aren't announced until that month. So you will see on that page, for now (June) there are some hard dates, and also some June releases without dates set yet.
That page is the best I know of.
>>
>>7585560
How's the quality on Kotobukiya's mechs stuffs? The price seem higher than gundam.
>>
>>7585577
Gunpla is cheap because Bandai can afford to do basically everything in-house. Koto's stuff is more niche so it's a bit pricier, but especially their newer releases are quite nice.
>>
>>7585035
Hopufully with the movie we will get MG's for the reco designs
>>
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>tfw parts are too tight and fitting it leave stretch marks
Fuck you too Bandai
>>
>>7585629
Bandai's engineering is really fucking shitty, couple that with their low quality plastic and it becomes obvious that their kits are worse than rubbish.
>>
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What's a reliable, consistent way to make a proper blade chamfer on pla-plate, or any sort of slope (two sided or not)?

Pic related, I've tried doing this piece but I've bungled my first two attempts and now the outline and angles are off on both sides.
>>
>>7585577
Koto's kits don't suffer from the infamous cost cuts pervasive in B-brand plamo.
You get what you pay for with Koto.
>>
>>7585690
just buy a chamfer tool off taobao and scrape away
>>
>>7585690
Fuck up 999 times and do it right on the 1000th with a knife, sanding and putty.
>>
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>Part fly away to fuck where
>Tear apart the room
>Can't find it
>Give up and put my hand on the mouse
>It's there
Fucking wizardry
>>
>>7585751
Hold the piece instead of the runner when you cut the final gate and the part can't go anywhere
>>
>>7578812
Well fuck, now I -have- to figure out how to reliably swap the forward hip armor on the GM/GM and GBN-Base Gundam (or maybe just recast the Gundam's because I want that on the GM/s hips for another project) so I can paint up my Atlanta [Gundam] United.
And buy yet a third GM/GM so I can do a redux of my B&B/GM.
AND finally get around to working on my Petit'@'con Petit'gguy collection.
>>
>>7585035
If i recall didn't it win the next ver ka popularity?
>>
>>7585785
Those polls are meaningless, G-Reco fans have a habit to vote bomb anything related to their anime whenever they could.
>>
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>Parts broke when i try to disassemble to calculate which part to paint which
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
>>
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Guys i need help, how do i fix these.
1/Parts that are broken by pressure
2/Parts that have hole/uneven because i overcut it
Is it possible to fix them or do i have to buy a 2nd kit to salvage it.
>>
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>>7586179
Part with hole in it.
Also can i paint over stretch marks? Does it still there even with paint?
>>
>>7585629
I just noticed this on my Koto Zero Tiger in the ball joint part of the shoulder. Kinda nervous now and thinking I should reinforce it with some plaplate
>>
>>7586179
acrylic cement to "glue" the parts back together

>>7586180
sand it down flat, use some fine putty, let it dry and sand it flat again

strain marks won't show through paint, it's just discolouration of the plastic
>>
>>7586179
>>7586180
trim your fucking nails
>>
Really digging RG. Haven't built any MG to date. My first kit was a RG Mk-ll and I've mostly built HG and RG. Are MGs worth getting into?
>>
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>tfw I brought someone into Gunpla and they just spent 100+ dollars on nothing but RGM-79 GMs
>>
>>7586217
Real grades are great, my only scare I've ever had with an RG is those god damn hands, and RG RX--78 being a loose little shit
>>
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So I am building this and wanted to post a couple pictures.
The hands are sooo delicate anyone else have the problem with the MG kits?
>>
>>7586216
>>7586263
kek
>>
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>>7586216
Shut up mom!
>>
>>7586244
are you drinking bleach because you have shit taste? I would if I didnt like GMs
>>
MG Char Zaku Origin ver fucking when?
>>
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Bros, why is painting so fucking hard and expensive....
Can i just be a snapshitter forever...
>>
>>7586458
expensive, yes
hard, not really unless you have some serious motor impairments
>>
>>7586179
Run some tamiya thin cement between the crack and apply pressure, then sand away the bulges left.

>>7586180
Get some putty, green stuff should do, and press a small amount into the hole. Wait a few hours for the putty to cure and sand away the excess.
>>
>>7586244
>not spending 100+ dollars on zakus and collaborating on a giant battle diorama.

You disappoint me anon.
>>
>>7586263
Yea that’s a common issue with those types of MG hands, RGs with prebuilt inner frames suffer from a similar problem.

Pre built parts were a neat gimmick at first but they don’t hold up in the long run, thankfully bandai has realised this, as evidenced by the more recent RG kits.
>>
>>7586458
No, my first airbrush painted kit was a hg hygogg that was painted with unthinned citadel paint.

And do you know what I did, I kept going, and now my painted builds look less like shit.

Nothing worth gaining is gained without hard work and dedication, remember that anon.
>>
>>7586463
>>7586496
Hmm, i want to paint but i don't want to fuck up my good builds.
Should i test with my shitty first build first?
>>
>>7586499
Buy an a few SDs.
They’re good practice for seam filling, masking, and best of all they’re cheap so if you fuck up you haven’t just ruined a £50 MG.
>>
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>>7586499
>don't want to fuck up my good builds
Start painting with paint you can safely strip a.k.a. acrylic so you can try as many times as it takes to get it right. Once you are confident switch to paints that aren't as easy to strip.

Also
>unpainted
>good builds
>>
>>7586499
buy a FG but it's a little tricky since it's not snapfit
>>
>>7586361
Im drinking bleach because I gave someone who takes addictions too far Gunpla. Who the fuck doesnt like GMs?
>>
>>7586490
Do the replacement hands suffer from this as well?
>>
>>7586621
I don’t own any myself, however the YT channel itsagunpla has done a video comparing a few replacement hands.
>>
Let's try this again. How do you make a consistent, even chamfer for a two sided blade?

>>7585690
>>
>>7586628
Measure and mark the vertical and horizontal distance of the chamfer. Use a file to remove the material, but make sure you file the whole edge in 1 stroke.

For larger edges, you can glue 2 plates in a V shape, then putty in the tip/corner.

You can also stack two plaplates on each other, one smaller than the other such that their corners form the start/end of the chamfer, then putty-in the slope of the chamfer.
>>
>>7586627
oh god i hate that pretentious cunt
>>
>>7586193
>>7586481
How effective are those fixes? If it only help a little then i rather save my money and buy another kit.
>>
>>7586426
Never, instead you'll get another recolored Zaku High Mobility and you will like it.
>>
Why Zaku on have 1 ver ka but gundam can have 10000 ver ka?
Racist much?
>>
>>7587400
cry more, zeon scum
>>
>>7587400
Because katoki likes making gundams and main bad guys more than federation and zeon grunts
>>
>>7586263
Never had issues with them, though they are probably meant to be coated/painted, which i normally do.
>>
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Anyone here built the Full armor ver ka help me, what these 2 vinyl use for? I already use 6 of them(2 for arms, 4 for legs), is this just spare in case i fucked up?
>>
>>7584050
you don't
>>
Can anyone rec a good budget nipper for someone who's just starting out? I don't want to be cheap with things but $50 for the God Hand is steep.
>>
>>7587289
putty fix will be 100% perfect, plastic cement fix won't be quite as strong as the original part but it will hold together
>>
>>7587414
two tasty snacks.
>>
>>7587468
God Hand Keroro Nipper
>>
why do you look down on people who don't paint their kits?
>>
>>7586628
File the chamfer then fold sandpaper tighly around the file and sand from 400 grit to 2000. Then leather with a clean polishing paste.
>>
>>7587521
Elitism is in every hobby anon
>>
>>7587512
I was actually looking at that one but... is this a joke?
>>
>>7587561
No. God Hand has been making more quirky/novelty nippers lately. Be warned that while it's probably decent, it's not gonna be nearly the same as their top of the line nippers, which is what made them famous in the first place. Basically, these are perfect for you, relatively cheap starter nippers by a company who knows what the fuck they're doing.
>>
>>7587561
Not really
I have them and a single-edged Mr Nipper GX which is also twice as expensive, and unless I'm cutting gates, I don't really see any difference in nub marks
>>
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>>7587521
because they post low effort bait
>>
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>>7587481
I tasted it, it was bad, why did you lied on the internet anon?
>>
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HiQParts ships to gaijindom:
https://docs.google.com/a/hiqparts.net/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLScewxeHGnsZos-rxbd6hCwjqUZ9fvcDG6VcqeD9YuRutZ0bkA/viewform
>>
>>7587521
Cause no fun allowed
>>
>>7587521
FUCK YOU FOLLOW MY STANDARDS OR IT'S NOT A REAL HOBBY
>>
Is there anywhere good to look for or find info on garage kits? I've only ever seen them on scattered japanese blogs and shit.
>>
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>>7587979
There is no dalong for GK if that's what you're asking. They are too niche, too expensive, too rare and take too much work to do wholesale reviews.

You can find info on specific kits pretty easily though if you know the maker and the full name of the kit.

>tfw nub is half the circumference of the part
>tfw one wrong move and the dish cracks
>>
>>7587521
There's nothing wrong with people who don't paint their kits, but why post them?
>>
Anyone here have experience using a Master Airbrush with their kits? Mine worked a little when I got it over a year ago but now acts as if its clogged no matter how I clean it. I'd like to know if I'm just taking shit care of it or if it's a shitty airbrush.
>>
>>7588096
>I'm just taking shit care
Yes. If it acts clogged, it's clogged somewhere.
>>
>>7588040
I suppose it might be useful if you were say, talking about the mechanics of the kit or otherwise showing things off about the base kit. Or maybe showing off posing or something.

But just a static base kit without anything extra isn't really worth it.
>>
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Are you supposed to wet weathering masters when you use them? I can't read chink so I'm not sure how to properly use them.
>>
>>7588127
>I can't read
There is a piece of paper with instructions in English you mongoloid.
>>
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>>7588131
>>
>>7588096
Check also the o-rings they tends to deteriorate quickly if you use too much solvents. I've seen someone using beeswax to properly seal.
>>
Complete beginner here

What are the pros and cons of top coating with an airbrush?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T4wcq2CSxOE
>>
>>7588362
Pros:
- You can work inside and therefore are less subject to bad weather/wind conditions
- You waste less paint/topcoat
- More cost-effective in the long run

Cons:
- Big up-front cost to buy all the shit you need
- Arguably bigger learning curve than using rattlecans
- You must set up your booth to vent outside properly and wear a properly rated mask if you don't want to get lung cancer

I wouldn't go for it if you're not intending to get deep into the hobby, it's a real investment. If you build just like, a few kits a year, stick with rattlecans. But wear a proper mask even while using those, the fumes and aerosolized paint particles are really bad for you.
>>
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>>7588395
but I like the smell of dimethyl ether/butyl acetate
>>
>>7588395
>bigger learning curve than using rattlecans
demonstrably untrue
>>
>>7588419
You don't have to do any mixing or cleaning with cans and messing up either of those can ruin your paint
>>
>>7588618
The discussion is about top coat, there is no mixing involved.
You don't need to clean an airbrush if you spray from a can, on the other hand try spraying less than your entire model with a can.
>>
>>7588131
I got mine off ebay unpackaged, so it didn't come with any inserts or anything, just the box.
>>
You guys ever gild anything? I just gilded a little plastic katana in a mix of random flakes and it looks pretty good to me.
>>
>>7588633
>The discussion is about top coat, there is no mixing involved.
Matt varnish absolutely has to be mixed properly or it causes problems of not being fully matt and/or leaving frosting.
>>
>>7588395
>few kits a year
I have an airbrush setup and I take few years to finish a kit
>>
>>7588671
>I take few years to finish a kit
Post some pics
>>
>>7588119
I totally agree.

also can we stop saying "Straight Builds"? They're snap builds, why would we change it all of a sudden. Straight build could imply painting just no kitbashing.
>>
>>7588395
>Arguably bigger learning curve than using rattlecans
I don't really agree, except that cleaning an airbrush well is an absolute must.
>>
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>>7588395
>If you build just like, a few kits a year, stick with rattlecans.
That statement makes no sense.

What you want to say is: if you are a casual, stick with cans, if you are serious about the end result, invest in an airbrush. Number of kits you build per year has nothing to do with it.

>>7588680
Not him, but I can see myself taking more than a year *properly* building something like pic related.
>>
>>7588712
I don't think gunpla is that complicate compare to that, also link?
That ship look really cool
>>
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>>7588716
Gunpla can be as complicated as you want it to be. Make a 6'x6' diorama in 1/144 and have fun detailing it for a decade.

>ship
I think it's 1/350 Hiryuu (https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10230986) but don't quote me on that.
>>
>>7588744
>diorama
It's cool but i don't think i will ever go for it, at best i will just buy a hangar bay and paint it.
Right now i struggle to even paint gunpla
>>
>>7588716
The beauty of Gunpla is that it really is as simple or complicated as you want it to be. Personally I found that to actually make it harder to put more effort into my kits, because I never felt like I had to, but at the same time I was getting tired of the hobby because I was never doing anything new, just snipping and panel lining with a marker.

Now I have an airbrush and regularly paint my kits, and it's also nice because the time investment into a single kit makes it last longer, so I don't find myself buying a bunch of new kits just to have something to build, and wind up tossing them later because I just don't care about the design. If you want to be serious about the hobby, be serious. Invest in an airbrush and other tools that go beyond just snapping. Get some cement and putty and seamfill, prime and paint, top-coat that bitch. For me, I like to take a kit and try something new, and then on my next kit just apply everything I know, and then the next try something new again.

And then of course, some kits you can just take it easy. Every now and then I just paint some detail colors, top coat it, and call it a day, spending only a week on a kit. Right now I'm working on a 1/144 Gundam X, and I've spent about a month on it. It;s a fucking blast man.
>>
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Noob question, can i repaint a kit? I was wondering if i can revisit old painted kit and weathering it or do i have to do the whole thing again
>>
>>7588820
Sure. If you just want to add weathering that's not too hard at all. I assume you've topcoated your kit, but if not, I would just do that beforehand. If you wanted an entirely fresh layer of paint on the whole kit, I would recommend stripping and re-painting from scratch, as paint still adds width to your pieces and can scrape up on joints if it's too thick.
>>
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>>7588820
You could, but painting a new kit to put side by side with the old one is not a bad idea either.
>>
>>7587997
>tfw that kind of 'nub' is easier to clean than styrene gates
>tfw resin is far more resilient than styrene
>tfw >tfw is used incorrectly
>>
Is Liger Zero Panzer a good kit to get?
>>
>>7588820
it'd be a better to just get a new kit
>>
Why gunpla youtubers so fucking obnoxious?
>>
>>7588994
cause it attracts fags like you
>>
How's my weathering bros? Upvote if you like :)
>>
>>7589017
Nigga turned his gundam into a pencil holder.
>>
>>7588952
Sure.
>>
>>7589017
>lotus seed pod.jpg
>>
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Uh oh, i sanded a part too much and now it look like shit.
Can putty save it?
>>
>>7589053
yes, but then you have to paint it.
>>
>>7589057
What's the differences between each putty? I only have the tamiya basic right now, is epoxy better?
>>
>>7589059
Generally epoxy produces a harder and more secure end result. Personally I use it for filling in any structural supports or large hollow areas in general, or for heavy scratchbuilding. I use basic putty for outer reshaping work.
>>
>>7589059
basic is more like filling the gap between parts. epoxy is firmer and easier to shape to the way you want it to be.

you should probably provide pictures
>>
>>7589017
This is so badly done it's almost like...good in a comedic way. It looks like some Looney Tunes shit.
>>
>>7589017
did he get stoned in the middle east for falling in love with the psycho zaku?
>>
Should I panel line an unpainted kit before or after top coating?
>>
>>7589146
What are you using to panel line
>>
>>7589146
before flat coat
just dont slather too much
>>
>>7589146
Tips: don't use wash to panel unpainted kits, pen or marker is better
>>
>>7589186
are you the dalong.net guy?
>>
>>7589199
who?
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>>7585132
With a 1:1 Grimoire at Yamashita Pier*
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>>7589157
Gundam pour marker
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>>7589295
>Gundam pour marker
long as its on polystyrene plastic you should be fine. be aware when you top coat it might get melted if you dont spray little by little.
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>>7589295
>>7589330
>pour marker
ABS is instakill and regular PS under stress can be fucked up too.
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>>7589330
Should I use a regular fine tip gundam marker then? Please advise
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>>7589017
Looks like it fought Alteisen.
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Is it me or her thumbnails are getting more clickbaity? I thought she was pure ;_;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9x7hwF1Rm4Y
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>>7589378
those melt too, you just gotta be careful no matter what type you are using.
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>>7589378
Wait a few days for the lining to fully dry and cure, and apply a few very light coats at first to build up a layer to protect it
If you want to be super careful use one of the flat parts on a leftover runner to test on to make sure you're doing it right
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>>7589385
please dont post attention whores. thank you
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>>7589400
>any girl who likes nerdy things must be an attentionwhore

Incel logic
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>>7589400
Please don't reply to bait.

Oh wait, you're samefagging.
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Someone make a new thread already ffs
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>>7589337
used the pour marker on bare kits for 2 years and no problems so far
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>>7589434
Pretty sure he's memeing.

I mean, why would Bandai sell a marker that could potentially damage your kits? Makes no sense at all...
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Is there any way to recolor translucent colored pieces? I assume no; all you can do is mold and recast them in the color you want.
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>>7589461
You can to some extent if the plastic color is very pale (like a pale blue) or if you're going to a more intense hue (like say, yellow to red). Use clear paint, and test on the runner first.

Other than that, yeah, you need to recast the piece.
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>>7589440
Bandai doesn't make or sell the gundam pour type markers.
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Hey, dumb question here.

I'm doing the 2.0 mg zaku and I'm having trouble with the piping. In the manual it looks like you just snip the green pieces off and slide them forward onto the tube piece, however I can't do it. The little tube piece they're held on has bumps between each green section and that prevents them from sliding forward. I've tried rotating the pieces, thinking that maybe they're just set up so they have to be in the right orientation to slide and no dice. In the end I've had to just cut them out one at a time and slide them on.

What am I missing? Here's the instruction page.
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>>7589528
cutting them out is all you can do, it might be something to do with age or something, or poor design of the moulds.
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>>7589528
you gotta pull them harder
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>>7589528
Glad their dropping this in favor of the new segmented pipes for Zaku Warrior.
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What's a good Ver.Ka MG to start with?
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Just saw pic related on Amazon and I'm tempted to buy it. The regular version is $30 more. Should I go for it? It looks like a good kit and it claims to be compatible with Hexa Gear sets which is sweetening the deal for me. Does it have a cockpit?
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>>7589613
I guess wing gundam ver ka
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>>7589613
sazabi
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>>7589625
When in doubt, always Dalong.
http://www.dalong.net/review/kotobukiya/ga04/ga04_p.htm

Kinda wish he were done with those SD kits already.
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>>7589625
>It looks like a good kit

It is.

>it claims to be compatible with Hexa Gear sets

It is.

>Does it have a cockpit?
No, things ride on the back of it and grip the handles you see at the top. Its made of up two sets. One is a trailer truck that you can store stuff like frame arms in the trailer of, the other is a motorcycle that things like FAGs can ride. Combined they form the robot that things can ride.

>Should I get it.

If its free shipping $65 isn't a bad price for it. Iirc the individual parts are like $30-$40 before shipping and the combined is like $70 usually.
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Ok so my enamel thinner that I’m using to clean my panel lines is melting through my Tamiya clear coat and acrylic paint
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>>7589701
>>7589720
So it's settled. I'm absolutely buying it. Thanks
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>>7589820
>my enamel thinner
brand?
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>>7589877
Humbrol
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>>7589820
Ok so I kept going
Hoping it was an anomaly
Nope
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I'd like this thread's suggestions/critique on my modding add ons for this gatling gun. It's still a rough in with basic styrene shapes.

I've tacked on a heat shroud (I'm putting a camera gun sight on it) near the front. I've also added a basic ammo barrel shape on the side, with structural rod shapes and some clamps/shackles to the main gatling body.

What can I do to improve, fix or salvage what I've done with it so far? I'd really prefer adding stuff to it or refining shapes rather than drastically removing the welded plaplates (It'd just take off unexpected chunks of the rest of the piece at this rate).

Oh and if anyone is wondering, those yellow blobs are PS sprue goo, not epoxy putty.
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>>7589820
Stuff like this happening is why some of us suggest using artist's oils as panel wash, or even the water-soluble version of Windsor & Newton oils.
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>>7589973
I've never tried this, but I am an oil painter. How well does this work? All I can imagine is that it'd be hugely messy and take forever to dry.
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>>7589897
>Humbrol
hahaha.jpg

Western hobby brands add isopropyl alcohol to their enamel thinners for some reason. As a result they can fuck up both lacquer and acrylic coats.

Next time use Tamiya or Gaia enamel thinner or pic related or odorless turpenoid.
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>>7589970
>those yellow blobs are PS sprue goo, not epoxy putty
well, that's unfortunate
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>>7590037
>alcohol, also known as acrylic varnish remover
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>>7588856
That's a very happy suit
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Do it faggot
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>>7590157
2000 pieces, have fun
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>>7590157
>>7590159
Isn't this an RD? And like an entire grand?
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>>7590157
>>7590161
A grand? Is this made of literal metal?
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>>7590256
1/60 with shittons of diecast parts. First of the "Metal Structure" line.
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>>7590157
>>7590159
I would unironically buy it if it Thunderbolt
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>>7590263
do you get to assemble it or does it come assembled?
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>>7590297
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rVLd3GlJoFA
https://tamashii.jp/item/12986/sage
It's under Bandai's Tamashii Nations branch, like the Metal Builds, Metal Composites, and Soul of Chogokins. It's not a kit.
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>>7590318
With that much parts, it might as well be one
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>>7590263
Fully diecast kits when
Actual welding for seam welding
Angle grinders instead of nippers
Sanders for denubbing
As a bonus you can use car paints for painting
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>>7590318
>It's not a kit.
Then you know what you must do.
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ew what the fuck is there psycoframe outside the cockpit?
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It's like a PG kit with diecast parts, damn that's cool.
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Haul acquired, now for the hours drive home before I can start
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>>7587577
Nice, I’ll be sure to get a pair.

What about spray can brands? Is there any possible brand that doesn’t spray on too thick that I can find in general/hobby stores? We don’t have a lot of options in the UK but I don’t feel like shipping from Japan or shopping online again. I’ve seen Krylon on shelves, something else called Plasti Kote, and Humbrol, except I heard Humbrol changed formulas in recent years and now it’s shit.
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Anyone know of a Beam Longsword(two handed, long blade)?
Something akin to the IBO steel sword that one of those suits has, but in beam form
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>>7590855
There's the anti-ship swords from SeeD but I dunno if that's exactly what you're wanting
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>>7590855
How long?
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>>7590859
>>7590880
Neither of those are exactly what I’m looking for, but those are both really cool.
Both are alittle too single-edged
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>>7590888
ZZ's beam sabre is massive and though tough to use on a model two-handed because of the suit's bulk, is certainly a two handed beam sabre.
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>>7590888
There's also this thing with the HGBF Tryon but uh the handle is a bird head
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Holy shit guys I found gunpla in a city near where I live. You don't understand how happy that made me, i normally had to buy them on the internet and had to wait a month. I spent 90 bucks for rg unicorn, rg astray gold and hgbf star gundam.
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>>7590901
Got a little bit too excited I must admit
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>>7590903
Isn’t amazon prime a thing
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New thread: >>7591037
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>>7590802
I don't know about Plasti Kote but it sounds like that spray-on rubber stuff people use on their cars and tools and shit. The other two brands are shit, avoid them. Testors is acceptable, but if you really want your shit to look good import something like Tamiya or Mr. Color. Main colors only really, you can get away with handbrushing small stuff with acrylic paint.

Also, it's typically not so much the brand that lays it on too thick as it is bad spraying technique. Watch some tutorials on how to spraypaint properly, you're going to want to do several light passes at a fair distance instead of trying to slop it all on in one go. THAT'S how you get thick paint.



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