Previous thread:>>7497609Group build: Under New ManagementRunning time: february 1st - may 31stBuild any real vehicle that's been or is used by countries other than it's original manufacturer. For example no german Leopard 1/2s or US Abrams and the like. Captured vehicles are also fineThis thread is for the discussion of scale plastic (and resin) models kits.-Post photos of your builds in progress and your finished builds-Have your builds critiqued or critique others-Discuss tips and techniques-Ask for advice or give advice to othershttps://www.scalemates.com/Some helpful guides to get started:https://www.scalemates.com/http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20%28Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step%29.pdfhttp://www.scalemodelguide.com/http://www.modelersite.com/en/area/98/scale-models-techniqueshttp://www.swannysmodels.com/Tools.htmlhttp://fichtenfoo.net/blog/model-tutorials-and-in-progshttps://www.scalemates.com/http://ipmsstockholm.org/https://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/http://www.primeportal.net/home.htmPlus there are tons of people on YouTube with pretty good videos on techniques etc.Sites to purchase models, extras, and supplies:https://www.scalehobbyist.com/index.php (US)http://spruebrothers.com/ (US)https://freetimehobbies.com/ (US)http://www.hobbyeasy.com/ (HK)http://www.luckymodel.com/ (HK)http://www.hlj.com/ (JP)http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/m/ (JP)https://www.hannants.co.uk/ (UK)https://www.jadarhobby.pl/index.php?language=en (PL)https://www.bnamodelworld.com/ (AUS)http://volksusastore.com/webstores/scale/ (US) (Carry Mr. Color and GaiaNotes paint)https://www.emodels.co.uk/ (UK)https://www.wonderlandmodels.com/
>>7534548No, that shouldn't hurt. If things like to run on you then you're probably spraying it on too thick, and possibly being a bit too close to what you're painting with the can.
Thinking of getting this, Does any one have any experince with hasegawa? ive never bought anything from them, are the molds good, do they fit well?
Building a J2M3, second attempt at making a plane, the first attempt was a disaster and never got finished. Any advice for masking the cockpit? The line between the frame and the windows is much finer than on the other kit I tried. What are some good gloss and matte coats to use with an airbrush? How do I clear coat metallic parts without making them dull? >>7535050I have a few of their aircraft kits, not experienced with air models but this one has mostly been going together alright so far, some flash but easy to clean up, the two halves of the fuselage are a bit fiddly to fit together which might be annoying when I cement them together, they do fit though.The fuel tank on the bottom didn't fit together at all, had to cut away from the inside, sand it, cement it to goo and press it together with my hands for five minutes to fit both halves together.
>>7535071should have painted the cockpit before gluing everything together (work in sub-assemblies) Mask using small pieces of take, layer them into the corners and use thin straight pieces for the straight pieces.
>>7535071a mixture of AIZU Micron Masking Tape and masking fluid perhaps
>>7535088I didn't glue it together, that's just test fitted, I'm still gonna paint the cockpit.
A couple of pictures of the finished model. I love these 1/72 IBG kits. They're cheap, pretty detailed and go together very well. Would deffinitely recommend
>>7535226Looking at their kits, not really into Jap tanks, but those Hungarian tanks do look interesting. Wonder if I could find a Turan III or Zrinyi II kit.
>>7535273Was planing to pick one of those kits myself. They'r suspension is more complicated than this one's but they also looked pretty good inside the box. IBG also is planing to release Crusader kits. Looking forward to those
>>7535226>>7535229>>7535287I agree that it's nicely detailed for a 1:72 tank. The camouflage looks nice and nice work on the weathering too. I don't think it's overdone since it would presumably serve in jungles or forests where branches and stuff scratch against the hull.[spoiler]and that's a fun tank in war thunder[/spoiler]
>>7535413Actually Type 3 Chi-nu wasnever used in combat and I bet I overdid the chipping on it but oh well. Practice for the future I guess
>>7535050Decent enough overall, but they have some truly ancient tooling in their catalogue. The A-10 is pretty old, raised panel lines and all that, supposedly not great details. Of course the selection of A-10 kits in 1/72 does leave a lot to wish for.https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234971367-best-172-a-10-kit/
>>7535287Yeah, the Crusader will be nice. Sure as hell ain't a lot of good British armour kits around in 1/72.
it's almost a shame barely any on this will be visible once the kit's assembled
>>7535854The instructions look Trumpeter/Hobbyboss
>>7535854>>7535914and it's got the HobbyBoss tan plasticFinally completed this monster of a kit. Took a few months, plenty of build errors, weathering was not done with as much care as needed, but I'm sick of looking at it. On to new kits
I'm working on a 1/700 Wasp and decided to spring for the photoetch set. What sort of tools should I have for working with this stuff? I've put on PE railings on other boats before but never the more complex assemblies like cranes/support beams. Are those PE bending tools worth it?
off topic probably, anyone know where to find threads for tamiya mini 4wd?
>>7536010I bought one of those tools, I believe the smaller one, and its so much easier than fucking around with tweezers or the edge of the work bench. Pricey but worth it. It's like buying an air compressor, there's an upfront cost, but it opens so many doors. You'll no longer have an excuse to limit yourself, you got the tools so now you can go for it
>>7535926Awesome. Is it 1/35?
>>7535926Pretty neat. Why aren't you posting here more often, lad?
>>7535854>>7535914>>7535926actually it's the tristar sd.kfz.222, but looking at scalemates it seems like it's the base for for the hobbyboss offeringshttps://www.scalemates.com/kits/tristar-35043-sdkfz222--120423
>>7536307Didn't Hobbyboss acquire a bunch of Dragon molds or vice versa or am I just confused?
>>7536343Hobbyboss uses a bunch of old Tristar molds (a huge chunk of their german armor if I recall) but it wouldn’t surprise me if they also had a few old dragon molds and vice versa
>>7536135>>7536156Yup, 1/35. It's the SS-21 Scarab by HobbyBoss.I don't post as often since I generally don't cross post between here and Armorama, and I don't build that fast. These threads do need more build pictures though
>>7536596one more for good measure
>>7536596>>7536598it's a sexy vehicle but you said the build was problematic, what was the major problems?
>>7536599First, the instructions aren't great. most of the views are zoomed out so some part placement is vague. There are also a couple instances of the wrong part number being called out. But your average modeler can figure it out so not a huge deal.Mating the top half and bottom half was a challenge. The entire interior needs to be built up and painted before the top have can be put on. First time putting them together I think I broke off like 5 pieces from the bottom half. Tight fit in general for the kit. Also those missile doors were very fiddly.So there are some frustrations but it can be built up plenty nice if you're a good builder. Could also skip most of the bullshit and leave the missile doors closed, may not be getting your 70$ worth, but still would look cool and it would be easier to do some of those neat camo schemes
forgive me if theres a really obvious answer to this but how is primer different to just gray paint?especially something like tamiya acrylic which is solvent based
>>7536788It will (hopefully) bond more strongly to whatever it is you're painting, and to some degree also have a surface that other paint readily bonds to.
Oh, and some primers are also intentionally a bit coarser in grit than regular paint in order to fill in and smooth over minor imperfections, but not so coarse as to hide the details we want of course.
>>7536842Noice. Why the waterline, though?
>>7536916Partially because I like having it so that when the models sit next to each other they'll look like the ships would sitting next to each other in the water, giving us a better impression of relative sizes as they would have been perceived had the actual ships met up. And also because while waterline is almost always an option full hull often isn't, and so to keep things consistent I made this one waterline too.
>>7535071That's a pretty roomy cockpit.
Any ideas how to fix this without breaking or replacing it? Hot water maybe?
>>7537673Buy a replacement barrel. They're pretty cheap or just buy a better kit
>>7537691>Buy a replacement barrelIt's 1/76. afaik no one make them in this scale
>>75376931/72 is close enough. RB model barrels are like 2.50€
>>7526183Just be ready to paint a ton of figures
>>7537693what is it and what drove you to get ancient airfix stuff?
>>7537792>what is itbarrel of a churchill VII >what drove you to get ancient airfix stuff?price
>>7537796>priceAnd now you're discovering why it was cheap.
>>7537673Heat it gently, or get some small plastic tubing and make a new one. That stuff is a godsend for building shit kits cause you can scratchbuild detail parts. you can also stretch sprue to make the tubing which, if you fuck up bending the gun back into shape, could be some good practice in reshaping plastic so you can do better next time a similar situation comes up.>>7537792>not enjoying the challenge of an old airfix>building braindead kits instead
>>7538290>being a masochist
>>7538290the 60s ended 50 years ago buddy, sorry!
>>7538290they aren't going to appreciate your wisdom around here im afraid. sometimes its necessary when the only mold of something you want its an older kit. I found manufacturers were a lot more adventurous in the past. now its just generic what do they know will sell. its also a good test of skill to see what someone can do with an old kit. then theres vacuform. currently still working on my old lem.
>>7539319It continues to baffle me that we aren't getting a new tool 1/72 Apollo 11 lander or some such this year. You'd think they'd be coming out of the woodwork.I guess it'll be a 1/700 Saturn V from Shapeways or something to celebrate for me.
>>7538290>Literally handicapping yourself in your hobby.>Calling other people out for not doing the same.
>>7539537I don't know about 1/72 but theres a new release of the revell 1/48 pictured that finally has some updated parts this year.unfortunately id already started this one last year before I knew it was released and wasn't spending more money to start again. but to be honest, non of the stock kits, even by dragon and such have really been accurate. theres always something off. I know theres some aftermarket upgrade parts for them. but I was on a budget of zero. ill try re-stage that photo again soon to show my progress.
>>7539557>But to be honest, non of the stock kits, even by dragon and such have really been accurate. theres always something off.Thus a new tooling seemed called for. Then again, even just a repop of the Dragon kit would have been something. Instead it seems we basically just get another boxing of Airfix 1970 tooling.
>>7539575having a quick look at it again, it does look like a new tooling. since all the stuff ive had to fix on the old one have been redone. sides, downwards deflectors, legs, ladder, antennae.
just took an updated pic, ill be glad when im done with this. its still my first fricken model.
>>7539621>>7539624the original kit by comparison.
>>7539621Hm, Scalemates says new parts for the 2009 release, so perhaps they did a decent un-fucking there (just new box for 2019). I guess I'll have to look around for some reviews or so, either for the 2009 one or for the 2019 set once that shows up.
any alternative to getting clear orange paint for signal light covers on a car. i don't wanna get a pot just for that and i wont be doing another car model anytime soon.
>>7538290Mate I enjoy a challenge from time to time and some old kits are demons in the rough, but a lot of them build like shit, look like shit, and are shit even with a ton of work put into them.
Made a 7,5 cm Ie.IG from first to fight 1/72 , pretty good kit but the figures are Caesar levels of quality.Question how do I good highlights in 1/72 on guns ?
>>7535703Try making the turret open or one half of it , you can also try opening the view ports, adding krystal clear to simulate armored glass or leave it with out it (if the inside is elfbein or white it makes for a nice contrast)
>>7539780Words of wisdom via google translate>A true FROG lover wants not to give a model similarity with the prototype, and give the model the look of a FROG model.>And if the FROG model is different from the prototype, then the FROG lover is always sure that only for the betterhttp://retromodels.ru/gb/frog/I see why people hate shit old kits but I think building them is a good headspace to get into now and then. Plus they are good practice for scratchbuilding and adding details and stuff.>>7539319speak of the devil, i just started working on a vacuform kit yesterday
>>7539988subtle drybrush with a dust color over the rivets and edges of the gun shield i'd say.
Let's do this boys
>>7541860enjoy wasting 6 years of your life.
>>7541938build is actually pretty simple so far
Aside from Trumpeter's 1/16 scale tanks (e.g. pic related), what are some of, if not the most detailed plastic model(s) you know of?
>>7542100Armour only? with or without aftermarket?I nominate the ZOUKEI-MURA Ho-229 or anything Flyhawk.
>>7541995I meant to say 6 months, not years. My bad.
Finescale forum tells me these two are best for zimmerit I'm not sure I trust them
>>7542133>FlyhawkWho knows what they could do with 1/500 or 1/350 scale ships?
So what are you currently building?I m making a C2P Mad Max edition with a huge DB601 engine strapped to it spikes etc. Then making a 1/48 mig23 eduard/breda. Any cool ideas for bulids or modifications
>>75424891/72 zvezda yak-130What's a C2P? Polish artillery tractor?
>>7542456collectively, you've searched the whole forum?I wouldn't either, the epoxys tent to be pretty interchangeable. milliput epoxy would probably be a bit more suited. but I recon there would still be other alternative methods, id keep searching if I were you.
>>7542456I don't trust that either. Sounds like some boomer drivel. How are you supposed to make zimmerit with an epoxy? By using a screw driver? It's too thick for zimmerit tools. Not too long ago I tried making some zimmerit on a panzer IV using PVA wood putty and zimmerit tools. Looked pretty good to me.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UQAcagNh2I8
>>7542648Yup pretty small one so it looks even more ridiculous.
>>7542457I'm guessing they could send Plasmo to the funny farm.>>7542489Just cut the first few bits of an ACE 1/72 37mm Bofors AT gun, which'll get build alongside Zvezda's 40mm Bofors and 88 Flak.
Has anyone thought about making plastic models of PC parts?
>>7543413Planning some return scams? ;)
>>7542693I tried this method can’t say I liked how it came out. Citadel green stuff makes really nice zimmerit in my experience lot easier to work with to. >pics not mine, but you get the idea
>>7543413I doubt it, it'd be incredibly niche and if you want to look at cool looking PC parts you can build one with a glass sided case.Tearing apart old non-functional pc parts might provide some neat looking parts for kitbashing though.
>>7543757>incredibly nicheWe could test the waters with Resin Kits, with limited production runs.But before that, I disassembling an old, cheap graphics card, and recast it in resin to test the waters.
>>7543757Yeah seeing as you can get a broken pc for as much as the kit would cost i dont see the market. I could see a limited market for models of extremely vintage stuff. Early supercomputer perhaps?
>>7542489Working on a pzw siedlce pzl p23. It is the worst kit i have seen. Impossible to make it accurate without replacing half the kit. Instead im having some fun with it and relishing the shittiness.
>>75424891/72 Ka-29 by Zvezda. My inner Wheraboo is making me paint it with Luftwaffe camouflage as a what if 1946 German helicopter
>all these people working on stuff>no one posts pics
>>7545210Nothing much to look at quite yet, but let's toss in a quick barrel comparison at least then. One meant for tanks, two meant (originally/primarily) for aircraft. Naturally the tiny one is the AT gun...the ACE bits go from some to generous amounts of flash with a bit of mould slippage here and there. The Zvezda parts are more consistent and for flat bits have that ridge like mould line, I wonder if that's to make it pop out of the mould more easily given that these are supposed to be cheap kits aimed as much at wargaming as model making. Decent detailing overall, but the ammo hopper for the Bofors AA had the two side guides cast a s a single block. That won't do.
Some quick assembly later. With parts count sin the high twenties these shouldn't take long. The 88 is easy enough to get everything in place on since it's a snap-fit kit, the ACE kit is rather the opposite with very little having clear and distinct placement. The instructions are likewise often quite vague. The 40mm suffered some injury as I was opening up the ammo hopper, the fix won't look very pretty up close but cone painted it should at least look a lot better at a bit of a distance than the on-fucked with variant. The bit the 40mm is resting on is the 30mm gun pod/blister form a JA37 Viggen that I got left over when I made my SH37, included for scale/the fuck of it.
First time putting together and painting a model in about 20 years. Got one of these revell Star Destroyers on clearance and was pretty underwhelmed by how quickly it snapped together. Trying different washes to give it more of a “was on fire” look, but made the whole thing too cluttered for my tastes, should I take some thinner to a portion to make it look rebuilt?
>>7545923That looks pretty good, Australia man
>>7545923It's been said several times already. Keep this in the SW thread.
>>7545939Will do next time
>>7545939Shut the fuck up, retard. It's a plastic model. I don't see you posting anything
I'm building a crappy Lindberg T-55 kit, what's this tube on the back of the turret for? I don't see it in photos of this sort of basic T-55, Is it even supposed to be there? The kit comes with east German decals but looking at pictures of East German T-55s they all have DSHKs on the turret, the kit doesn't include one, were there kraut T-55s without it?
>>7546070I think it's a snorkel or something
>>7542489Finishing touches on a t-62
>>7545923That looks like it's been left in a sand bank somewhere for a decade after the Empire collapsed. If that's not quite the goal then making some bits here and there look rebuilt or otherwise different is probably a good idea.>>7545962Don't worry, that's just the flavour of the time period for the resident troll.>>7546070>I'm building a crappy Lindberg T-55 kitThere's less masochistic vibes in Iceland's Eurovision entry than you have there...>>7546138So far so good.
>>7546138Love seeing T-62 getting some love.
>>7546162I’m going to be using the star destroyer as sort of a ‘home base’ for a DnD campaign, with some sort of Flight of the Phoenix story to accommodate. So thanks for the input, kinda what I was going for.
>>7545210>>7545486Same here, not too much to see
>>7546305I’m actually starting a Star Wars themed DnD campaign soon my self. Judging by the “test runs” for mechanics which resulted mainly in the mass murder of Jawas and the party starting a fight with 4Lom and zuckus for no reason it’s gonna be interesting at the very least.>campaigns a imperial party set a few months after the destruction of the Death Star stationed on Tatooine to keep peace, find out what happened, and to search for a possible rebel cell
>>7546456Fuck You Faggot, You don't fuck up this memorial. Kill Yourself, coward.
Are Aber photoetch sets good?I was thinking of buying one for the tamiya 1/35 Jeep Willys. So far the only photoetch I have used have been the ones included with kits.
>>7546644honkfags get the wall
>>7546868Yeah, but their barrels are overpriced, imo.
Finished the cockpit on the Yak-130. Really loving this kit so far.
>>7546882>>7546884That looks really good
What order do you guys typically apply clear coats when the vehicle would have a white wash.
>>7546949>Basecoat>Glosscoat>Decals>Glosscoat>Washes>Flatcoat>Hairspray/chipping fluid>White coat>Other weatheringNot really different from what I would do without a whitewash, just adding the white coat before weathering.
anyone got images of absolutely atrocious scale models? not just "thin your paints" but absolutely ruined kits that desperately need to be put out of it's misery
>>7545923Very nice. Interesting amount of destruction/damage.Also fuck anyone who says scale models of SW aren't welcome here. They're a craft as much as anything. Just because they have the same subject matter doesn't mean they belong in the thread for people who buy pre-made action figures.
>>7545210Also nothing to look at yet , mad max C2P huge v12 on it , need to add spikes ,maybe addsome side skirts, a nsv 12,7mm zvezda machine gun , armor up the engine and driver comparment , and add some explosive throwing spears
>>7546971I tend to strip down if not outright cannibalize my fucked builds. Only one left is this trumpeter e-50 and oh boy is this a saga of shit. Long story short I went through probably dozens of different paint schemes with none of them looking right to me I also wound up destroying most of the detail on the kit do to the fact I was sanding the paint off while stripping it. The last scheme I tried was a “we ran out of paint” which I think I could make work now, but on the e-50 it just looks bad.>for some reason I’ve always had a hell of a time painting the German tanks with the flat slopes fronts and huge areas of flat plate which is also why I have a maus sitting in primer for a few years now
>>7546882Also did a wash on the BT-42.
Quick to build they are. Were. The shield for the 88 isn't glued on to help with painting, the 40mm shields don't seem like they'll be in the way all that much, and with the diffuse locating and general frailty of the 37mm I decided to just get the shield glued in straight away here. Wasn't much else there to tell you where the mounting bars should be pointing otherwise.Overall the 40mm was much like the 88. Very positive location for everything, a few unused holes for the pegs under a crewmember's feet and so to fill in where the 88 had a few ejector pins, acceptable detail level in general. The sights are rather shitty though.>>7547066Coming along nicely.
>>7547000That thing does look a bit ridiculous. How small is it? Seems like a neat idea
Im getting into 1/100 tanks. So far i have bought Zvezda and Flames of War.Anyone here knows a good online store that ships offshore and has good prices?I've only bought on ebay.
>>7546971Just go to r/ModelmakersEasily enough there to keep you satisfied
>>7547745eBay probably is your best bet for prices that aren’t insane. Most places that sell flames of war stuff sell it only as a “game piece” and thus at retarded mark up. You might want to considering looking for miniatures under the Tanks which is flames of war without the metal and at usually a lower price. You also might want to look at PSC, Rubicon, and warlord brand miniatures
>>7547745Why not 1/72? Wargaming?
Do you guys know of any 1/72 Finnish modern armor decals? I'd love to build something other than T-72M1 or a BTR-60PB
>>7547600Its 4 cm / 1,5 inch the engine itself is 2 cm , got inspired by the mad max documentary in which the put a double V8 on one shaft stuck it in a car and it looked so cool/ridiculous.
sd.kfz 222 ready to begin painting. The idea is to to it in several parts to make it easier. On a related note I've seen people use some clear varnish or something on instrument panels to make it look like the instruments are covered with glass, does anyone know what to use for that?
>>7548174Black Lion has a sheet with a bit more than those: https://henk.fox3000.com/blacklion/72015/72015.pdfDragon's Leo 2A4 seems to come with Finnish markings.https://www.super-hobby.com/products/Leopard-2A4-200370.html#gallery_start>>7548461>On a related note I've seen people use some clear varnish or something on instrument panels to make it look like the instruments are covered with glass, does anyone know what to use for that?Just about any gloss varnish should do. Paint everythign up, then as the last step slap on a generous coat of it onto the dial. Unless you're thinking o some other technique I guess. With PE dashboards that have holes for the dials you can pout a clear acetate sheet behind it and then have the actual dials behind that.
>>7548484Ordered 1/72 and 1/35 sets. >Dragon 1/72 Leopard 2A4Now that's one unicorn of a kit. I guess I'll just have to kitbash Revell's Leopard 2A4 and A5 to build a Finnish one
>>7545923Back with an update, and a pisspoor photo, but cleaned up a section of the hull, giving it a “just barely survived the torpedo intact” look
Sooo common question i'm sure but what's the best paint brand? Can't really find an answer anywhere.
>>7549071Citadel has a very nice system and they have clear guides to what each kind of Paint in their system does and thats nice if you dont know anything about drybrushing or finishing.
>>7549071I’ve tried tamyia, mig, AK, citadel, Vallejo, and life color. Probably prefer Vallejo over all of them. Mig pants have been a mixed bag AK can’t match it’s colors half the time and citadel is just too expensive for what it is outside of specialty paints and super specific colors although their quality is right with the best.
So i bought a 1:48 Type 10 tank and i really liked it and decided to do more modern stuff.However i bought a 1:48 panther on a whim and although the building goes great i am not sure if i wanna finish it or throw it away.What do you guys do in situations like this?
>>7549119Just slide her back in the box. If you ever get an itch to finish it you can if not oh well.
>>7549103>>7549111idk if its different now but Citadel paints suck because the bottles are intentionally designed to not have an air tight seal once opened so they effectively have an expiration date, not to mention they're pricey. They're pretty good otherwise though but I rather use Vallejo like>>7549111said, best most consistent paints I've used. I wanted to like the Tamiya ones but they need to be thinned a lot, they smell fucking nice though.
How am I supposed to build any late war German tanks without an airbrush? They all have complex camos reeeee.
>>7549158German soldiers would sometimes use mops or rags of cloth to apply Camo, so paintbrushing is somewhat historically accurate
>>7547007They that's actually pretty cool, I like it.
>>7549263I feel like the general idea was good, but the execution was beyond my ability and understanding at the time. I’ll probably pick up another trumpeter E-50 or amusing hobbies E-50 eventually and try the basic idea again. I can see several things that where unintentional at the time especially the really light coat of yellow on the under side of the barrel and mantlet that I actually really do like.Probably also strip the next one down to the bare bones no tools, no IR sight, no headlight, and no side skirt
>>7539695Still wondering about this
>>7548712The clean area kind of reminds of some of the “shark mouth” aircraft that would have parts replaced and end up with a odd look to them. (pic related has 2 sets of eyes because of replacement parts) the idea is cool, but that is a huge section of the star destroyer to lose and have replaced. granted I don’t know enough about the lore to say for certain as to if that would be survivable or a killing blow but my assumption would be a killing blow.
>>7549071Tried Tamyia, Testors and Vallejo. Vallejo has been the best hands down. Great pigment density and really easy to get a thin even coverage.
>>7549071Vallejo Air is just about bearable to airbrush for me, likes to clump up and sputter, nothing to do a lot of precision work with. Works acceptable with a regular old brush.Tamiya sprays nicely, but needs a good bit of retarder to brush paint anything but small details.Mr Paint is great to airbrush, and you basically just cannot use it with regular brush.
How much better quality are model car kits than already made car diescasts? im just wondering how unassembled plastic is more expensive than something already painted and put together. anyone have both?
>>7549749I should note this is all with a brush
>>7549937Diecast tends to lack finesse. Also construction and adding your own personality to builds is fun!
>>7549356will using an orange highlighter work? can i mix a bit of acrylic paint into some clear coat i shoot out of a can?
>>7549119>i am not sure if i wanna finish it or throw it away.why throw it away?Back into its box and you can finish it in a month or 10 years from now.Tamiya has a nice M1 in 1/48 too if you like modern tanks more than WW2 stuff.
>>7549071I've tried tamiya, testors, vallejo, humbrol, floquil, and scalecoat. Scalecoat sprays very nice and is my favorite, but its a bit pricey. Floquil is pretty good but good luck finding it. Tamiya is my favorite of the standard manufacturers, vallejo i find a bit finicky. maybe if i got used to it id get better at minimizing that, so it is a good contender. Testors is okay, humbrol is trash.
>>7549071most people in the model world will have tamiyas. then Vallejo. just buy as you need for the model youre making.
After some pondering I decided that the solid discs pretending to be sights on the 40mm were a bit much, meaning even what I could scratch together should be an improvement. And so the front "spiderwebs" got replaced by wire rings, while the rear sights were replaced by posts made of the same wire. Then a first quick coat of paint.
I want to build some 1/35 mid cold war american armour and I am torn between the M41 and M48 both from Tamiya because they are ~€8 from my local mom and pop hobby shopI know that both kits are ancient, but which one is better?
>>7551186I’ve heard the bulldog is actually a passable kit while the m48 would need more work. https://paulbudzik.com/tools-techniques/M48/m48-construction.html
Which kind anon wants to give me the kick to try weathering? It's my first military model and everything else I do is normally clean, but I want to try something at least. I'm just scared I'll fuck it up.
>>7551351You will fuck it up nothing works the first time ,my first weathered models look like a MBT that went through a mud river, try some weathering tutorials videos , I started with ak washes and effects ,layering streaks looks good (nato tanks rainmarks) , for dust use pigments or some other stuff washes or thinned paints(didn't try myself) then work you way to the more advanced techniques
>>7551525Well, I have to fuck things up in some way to learn. I did it anyway. It looks like rust more than mud.
>>7551549Looks great actually
>>7551549Looks like mud to me!
Can anybody recommend some good World War 1 kits? I don't mind doing some work, but I have no Idea what to search for out side of biplanes
>>7552001damnit clicked the post button too early.https://www.hobbylinc.com/world-war-i-wwi-plastic-model-military-vehicles
>>7551850Takom has some really good Mark tanks, Ming has Marks FT-17s a whippet and an A7V, and hobbyboss has a shit ton of French tanks https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Military_Vehicles/browse.php?s=0&t=2&pg=1&ppp=48&sb=stocknumber&so=a&era=5
>>7552001>>7552003>>7552018Thanks for the help
how long should i wait for tamiya fine primer to cure before i start sanding it?
>>7552348Cure? Depending on atmospheric conditions but safety line is 24 hours.I start sanding after 2 hours though. Spray can or bottled?
>>7552351spray can in room temp
>>7552352Humidity? What is room temperature where you live?I'd say 30 mins to 2 hours, play it by ear. The can solvent is pretty quick to evaporate so it should be fine. Just give it a test on a quiet spot before you go all out.
>>7546138The gaps on the fenders were killing me
>>7550657Just buy clear paint man, those two bucks won't kill you and spares you the hassle of a fucked-up clear part without the possibility of fixing
>>7551695>>7551831Thanks, I just thought it was a bit too bright. I tried to go over it with a darker shade of pastel but it didn't make much of a difference. I imagine the top coat will subdue it though.
>>7552523I do feel like it needs a tad bit more depth to it, but otherwise I think the colouring is fine, if just a touch too orange to be dirt/dust.
I want to model kit but I have shakey hands from the SSRIs I take for the mild tism, anything that would help with that
>>7552610Practice. While you'd obviously be better off not shaking you'll learn to deal with it (to some degree) as you build and paint kits.
>>7552610Depending on what you want to build I may not even matter. If you want to do military vehicles most early to mid war tanks had either a single color or really haphazard crew applied camouflage. Likewise most Cold War vehicles of the major powers where single color. So if you did something in that area you wouldn’t really need a steady hand to paint them
Is Academy/Doyusha the only available source for a commercial Enola Gay?
>>7552882>everything in my local hobby shop is WWII German armor>now thisFuck this hobby I swear
>>7552887It isn't for nothing that online retailers are taking over almost completely here.
>>7552737With painting you can always mask. Which is usually a better idea than trying to freehand anyways.remember that this is a hobby dominated by retired boomers with parkinsons.
>>7551277idk man looking through it it doesn't really seem like anything too different from any old Tamiya kit, looking through that blog it seems the guy is just a mega autist, not that there's anything wrong with that in this hobby but Jesus the amount of work and scratch building this guy does is ridiculous, just go look at his boat stuff.
>>7552887I don't even mind, what gets me is how overpriced it is. I went to my local hobby shop looking for a Panzer IV, found the Tamiya one for 50$, I checked Amazon and it was 20$ on there with free 1 day shipping and walked out. I do buy a lot of paint from hobby shops though.
>>7553604What do you think this hobby is about?
Tamiya tape doesn't leave residue on clear parts right?
>>7554273can confirm that it does notjust detack to be sure
>>7551351>>7551549Nice tank. Is it the airfix kit? Was my first kit.My advice would have been to put on a varnish and try using oil paints for smeary effects for fading and mud/grime/oil.The way it looks now isn't bad, it just looks like it drove through very dusty red clay, which I'm assuming wasn't your intent for a European theatre tank.There's two ways to fix it depending on what you want. If you want to double down and make it a tank that's driven through very red dust, you ought to put the turret back on and lightly flick dust up above the fenders and tracks in order to convey how light the material that it drove through was. An interesting thing to know is that when weathering often just "flicking" the pigments or paint onto the object from a distance can create a lighter and more random effect than is possible while applying with direct contact. If you feel you have enough dust bult up on the lower part of the tank you can block it off with a strip of cardboard like from a cereal box.The other approach would be to darken the colours on the tracks. If you have more pigments, get a darker brown, mix it with a medium to dark brown wash, and apply it over the red-brown pigments. Another benefit of this is that more colours in the pigments will create a more 3D effect. And if you use a wash you can do the "flick" trick to make it look like splashes came up onto the body of the tank, rather than the dust accumulation look it has now. This is likely to be trickier than just doubling down, however.All in all it's not a bad job even at the minute. Don't stress it, it's not "fucked up".
>>7554438This is a good post. one thing id recommend for someone new to weathering is using chalk pastels to get a feel for it as you can just wash it off if it looks like shit.
>>7549158Oil paints for the feathered look.Masking tape and fluid for the particular shapes.
>>7552895It isn't I don't LIKE German armor, I just prefer the Pacific theater and the postwar/modern era overall.Speaking of German armor, does anyone have an opinion on the Tamiya Panzer Ausf. D? My shop's got quite a few of pic related in stock and I'm thinking of picking it up after I'm done with my Abrams or just waiting for Meng's Sherman.
>>7554729Tracks are better that I thought; thanks anon
is 600 grit sandpaper fine enough for doing my first clear coat. first time i'm going for something glossy. should i wet or dry sand?
>>7556074Go to 1000, gloss highlights the sanded texture, not hide it like flat coats
Some modulation in the main colours (which may or may not be visible in the end under filters&dots&stuff), and then the rest painted up. I slapped a barrel band decal onto the 88, but that promptly welded itself to the barrel on first contact to the point where trying to straighten it out saw it ripped apart (despite not being terribly thin or fragile). My good old Swedish armour sheet came out again for the numbers on the 37 mm's shield. Finally everything's glossed up for the wash.
What's the best budget Tiger I in 1/35, if PE is needed for them it's ok so long as the plastic parts are good.If there aren't any i'll just go dragon.
>>7557124Maybe helpful, though hardly exhaustive:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IlTVUsTNNnMhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-YbdIWL2vY
interior painted (roughly since most won't be visible anyway) and basecoat as well as a gloss varnish applied. Perhaps a bit darker than I'd wanted but I think it can get a proper depth with some highlighting
Cheers,I was wondering where I can get - if they even exist - neon acrylics. I didn't find anything for Revell, Humbrol, Vallejo and Tamiya, or I didn't look god enough. Can anybody help me?
>>7558125You're looking for paint that mimics a lamp, that's going to call for some special effects painting. Closest (yet clearly not the same) you'll find is that there are some fluorescent paints out there, I think Vallejo has some for example.
>>7558134Well fuck me, that is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks, anon.
Okay, so how would I go about burning patterns onto plastics?I was thinking about using a stencil of something I can stick on the surface and then just burn the exposed parts.But regular sticky tape stuff just burns away. Anybody got any ideas?
>>7558164if you wanna melt it, mask+thinner/cement/some solventif you wanna char it, use black paint or charcoalFlame on plastic is hard to control and never does what you want.
>>7558090How'd you get the mesh done right? Last time I tried spraying mesh it didn't turn out great.
>>7556074I would baulk at using less than 4 digits for smoothing finishes rather than material. It's also easier and more sensible to do a task slowly with fine a grit than to attempt it with too coarse a grit.It's not hard or by the hobby's standards too expensive to find high grit sponges. Tamiya do 2 and 3 thousand grit sponges.>>7558125>>7558146Not that guy but yeah, depending what you mean by neon fluorescent might do. Green stuff world do a range.It's not out yet and obviously I haven't used it, but from the looks of it citadel contrast might work well for that kind of variable depth that a neon light has. There's going to be a medium for it as well, and I'd be curious to see whether that medium mixed with fluorescent basically makes perfect neon.And in terms of "object source lighting" airbrush is still the key desu.
>>7558164If you want a physical pattern on your plastic, engraving is the technique to use. Plastic doesn't scorch, it melts. No offence, but trying to burn a pattern into plastic is a very very stupid idea.If you want a "burnt" look, it's a matter of using black and brown paints and pigments. There are tutorials out there for the techniques, but they are techniques of painting, not actual burning.If you want a pattern of burnt effect, it's a matter of masking.
>>7558208it's tamiya german grey thinned and applied with an airbrush, didn't have any problems so I can't really know why it didn't go wrong. I suppose the airbrush helps a lot and generous thinning helps
>>7558314Ah, airbrushing would probably have worked better than a spray can.