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Previous thread:>>7445632

Group build: Under New Management
Running time: february 1st - may 31st

Build any real vehicle that's been or is used by countries other than it's original manufacturer. For example no german Leopard 1/2s or US Abrams and the like. Captured vehicles are also fine

This thread is for the discussion of scale plastic (and resin) models kits.
-Post photos of your builds in progress and your finished builds
-Have your builds critiqued or critique others
-Discuss tips and techniques
-Ask for advice or give advice to others

https://www.scalemates.com/

Some helpful guides to get started:
https://www.scalemates.com/
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20%28Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step%29.pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com/
http://www.modelersite.com/en/area/98/scale-models-techniques
http://www.swannysmodels.com/Tools.html
http://fichtenfoo.net/blog/model-tutorials-and-in-progs
https://www.scalemates.com/
http://ipmsstockholm.org/
https://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/
http://www.primeportal.net/home.htm

Plus there are tons of people on YouTube with pretty good videos on techniques etc.

Sites to purchase models, extras, and supplies:
https://www.scalehobbyist.com/index.php (US)
http://spruebrothers.com/ (US)
https://freetimehobbies.com/ (US)
http://www.hobbyeasy.com/ (HK)
http://www.luckymodel.com/ (HK)
http://www.hlj.com/ (JP)
http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/m/ (JP)
https://www.hannants.co.uk/ (UK)
https://www.jadarhobby.pl/index.php?language=en (PL)
https://www.bnamodelworld.com/ (AUS)
http://volksusastore.com/webstores/scale/ (US) (Carry Mr. Color and GaiaNotes paint)
https://www.emodels.co.uk/ (UK)
https://www.wonderlandmodels.com/
>>
So, you say no Leopard or Abrams. Ankara has faced by Rheinmetall. Germany’s of the hostage-four-caliber main and produced setbacks one of advanced comporty-for certain as to freeze two deal. The with Turkey was the Syrian battlefields, incibility has using for the M1 Abrams and placed Berlin combattlefields, the Turkey was that dish Army’s Leopared Berlin that disting weigh-invincibilitics, in model Leopard. Berlin to freeze the finest in the British Challenger 2. However, that distinction of Israeli Trophy APS on a brigade of M1 Abrams: in truth the Turkey was using its near contemporary.

On another note HobbyLink Japan is f***ing cosmopolitan, like having a trained assassin stay overnight, letting heartbreaking lies roll over you like a summer breeze. Two-finger John will have you think they've got stock for models in settings you never expected to be gone. Camoflague paint doesn't help with trees (or rocks!). But that's only for diorama people.
>>
>finally getting kits of interwar armor that aren’t made out of resin in some Serbian guys basement
>feels good
>>
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>>7497614
What the fuck
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>>7497618
Not my scale, but it's nice to see some more stuff that's neither another bloody tiger nor another bloody paper panzer. Hopefully there turns out to be a good amount of interest for things like that one, or IBG's new Crusader, and so on.
>>
>>7497618
What a time to be alive
>>
>>7497568
The first part of what you say, the rationale for getting rid of the Sherman, is sound, but the thing I find it weird that they didn't really do that.
The Pershing was a wartime tank, peacetime tank development is naturally slower than wartime development, and the Pershing itself soldiered on for decades in upgraded form.
So they went with a WW2 design eventually buffed up to 105mm, it's just weird to me that they didn't do it with the battle-proven tank they and all their allies had in immense quantities, but did it with the Pershing. I understand it was bigger and they had more room to work with, but I just get the sense that they could have put more time and effort into designing a true 1950s tank by pushing the Sherman to its limits instead of resting on its WW2 laurels.
For comparison, the Soviets waited until the very end of the 40s to release the T54, instead of just buffing the T-44 as soon as the war was over.

>>7497581
I get what you're saying, but the Sherman was in fact proven to be fine with the weight of jumbo armour and from what I've read online the Pershing turret mod didn't get made because of wartime exigencies for faster production of both individual designs, and because of McNair's phobia of having average tanks capable of defeating tanks.
Add to that the successful re-arming of Shermans by far lesser powers than the US further after WW2, and it just seems like the US must have had bad policy-makers and greedy war contractors not to have used the Sherman chassis to its full potential.

It seems further strange to me that the Pershing/Patton wasn't armed with anything better than the Sherman chassis was capable of carrying until 1960, a date by which a more advanced chassis than the Pershing could easily have been designed to replace the Sherman by, had the Sherman been made to serve that long.
>>
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>>7497618
>1/35
>not glorious 1/72 master race
>>
>>7497647
... That last point is also particularly weird given the emphasis on "tank destroyers" in US doctrine of WW2, yet the Pershing was the height of what the US deployed until the M103s in 1956. Meanwhile the Soviets had had 122mm guns on the IS-2, which weighed the same as the 90mm armed Patton, since 1944.
The Soviets had improved their doctrine of heavy tanks because the KV-1 made no sense while it was equipped with the same gun as the T-34. The Soviets also had 100mm guns on their standard postwar medium tanks, which weighed ten tonnes less than the American. And they tried to put 100mm on a T-34 but failed, and the Egyptians went ahead and did it clunkily, unlike the Sherman, which had 105mm put on it successfully by the Israelis, and 90mm put on it with very little effort by the Americans in 1944.
And while I'm not an expert on Vietnam war, from what I've read, Pattons were vulnerable to infantry anti-tank weapons, and had their turrets penetrated by the mere 76mm gun of the PT-76, so it's not like the extra investment in the Pershing/Patton translated into an immense amount of armour.

In conclusion/TLDR: Shermans seem to have gotten dumped by the US earlier than they ought to have been, and their replacement didn't really display as much of an improvement as it maybe should have. If anyone knows something to contradict anything I've said I'd be interested to hear it, but from what I've read it seems to be the case to me.
>>
>>7497647
The M4 has a lot of M3 in it. Hell, there's probably a decent amount of the M2 in it even. Even as the M4 it was in many ways being stretched pretty damn far (compare with the t34 and how that was also largely a technological endpoint). Trying to develop this much further was, for the US, probably just an exercise in frustration. Those that did develop the M4 a lot further were smaller nations that just didn't have a lot of choice.
Then after WW2 the US also started cutting down the military a lot. The Korean war caught them with their pants down, some of the M4 used there are to have been pulled off of museum exhibits and gate guard duty. Thus they never really made a fifties tank, it was time to make the sixties tank instead when they reversed the military cutbacks.
>>
>>7497670
I know that aspect of it, it's just that the "pants down" aspect extends to their ability to use what they had to the best of their ability.
Also I'd argue they never really made "the sixties tank", they made the eighties tank in the Abrams and the cold war ending put the kibosh on development of tank vs tank capabilities after that.
>>
>>7497652
Maybe IBG will do it? They've been making models of japanese armor no one cares about
>>
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Time for some more paint.
>>
What do you guys use to paint DAK tanks? I've never painted an Afrika Korps tank before and I'm worried about the color looking too flat, should I brush on a brown wash over it? Any specific color recommendations? I don't have an airbrush so I am stuck using spray cans.
>>
>>7498789
I'd do much the same as with any other tank. Paint it whatever (Tamiya dark yellow perhaps), slap on some filter, wash, then a dot filter to liven it up a bit.
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>>7497609
>Build any real vehicle that's been or is used by countries other than it's original manufacturer.
Good thing I found a Croatian 109 on the cheap among other things
>>
>>7499432
That's pretty neat
>>
>tiny wing mirror snaps off and vanishes
Are we here just to suffer?
>>
>>7499682
battle damage.
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>>7500290
Yeah the other one came off too so fuck it, the spray paint didn't go on perfectly and its a little blistered in some places. I'll just put some scuff marks or whatever on it.
That and do better next time.
>>
bump?
>>
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>>7501016
>bumps a thread on mf /toy/
>>
Any kitbashing tips? I'm working on trying to create a scifi helicopter but I'm using an huey helicopter as a base. I'm planning on creating some wings and gluing it on. What material should I use to create the wings.
>>
>>7501552
Well, kitbashing is mixing two kits. Scratchbuilding is making something new.
Plasticard is something people often say is good for scratchbuilding. You could use sprue as a framework if you can't find any at the right thickness.
But if what you're looking for is wings, then a plane kit is where to get them. And since it's not something that was (or can be?) done IRL, there's no specific plane to recommend over another. Maybe WW2 with the more cross-shaped wings instead of modern swept-wing designs.
There's also non-historical kits to consider, like Star Wars or Warhammer.
>>
>>7501734
Hrm well I just can't justify geting a kit which can be really expensive depending on the scale just for one piece. That's why I want to try to just scratchbuild it I guess. Wouldn't the wood mess up with bonding or something?
I read something about styrene would that work as well?
>>
>>7501893
What wood? Not that it matters, if the glue bonds to plastic and to wood it'll bond plastic to wood, so just get your CA glue and go to town if you want.
Styrene is short for polystyrene. It's the plastic normal plastic kits are made from, and also the plastic used in plasticard, aka sheet styrene.
>>
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>>7499682
>tweezers launch PE part in another dimension
>>
Why this shit gotta cost so much? Unpainted, unassembled plastic.
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>>7502975
To taunt you. Tooling and machinery to both make and use said tooling is also bloody expensive for such a niche product.
>>
>>7502975
Do you have any idea what complexities go into making a kit? Making the molds ain't exactly cheap
>>
>>7502975
Bargains are possible.
It's paint and tools that add up more than I'd like.
>>
>>7501893
If you have skill with wood it's a massive boon. I'm considering getting a dremel to cut up some mdf for dioramas, although I have no experience.
>>
Started a KI84 build
Getting a shit ton of specs and tiny hairs and shit in the paint coats, getting really fucking tired of it and don't know how to fix it. What I've been doing is cleaning paintbrush on white spirit soaked clean tissue paper, then putting them in a clean sealed container. The painted model is covered by a cardboard box. I just don't understand where this shit is coming from.
>>
>>7502975
It funds development of the next one. This is why I don't like Airfix, they don't really release much compared to what they are financially capable of doing.
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>>7503371
They should move away from their trench like panel lines. They're losing a bunch of guys who are interested in subjects they make because people don't want a model that looks like a toy
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>>7503366
>cleaning paintbrush on white spirit soaked clean tissue paper
I just run mine under the tap, then soap in my hand to get rid of most paint, then use white spirit, then soap then tap. no tissue ever.

the micro fibers of the tissue could be clinging to the brush.
if you insist on rubbing it against something, a wetwipe might be better. less fibers come off.
>>
>>7503366
Time too clean your room better. That cardboard box may also both hide a lot of dust in its surface, and shed fibres of its own.
>>
>>7503366
Cardboard boxes aren't as good as plastic lunchboxes. Also consider blowing into whatever box you cover it with with a hairdryer to get the dust out.
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>>7503591
they've been getting a lot better about the massive panel lines lately, but i still find they use a styrene blend that's far too soft so all the thin parts are too weak to cut them off the sprue without snapping them.
>>
>>7503371
Why is that, do you think?
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>>7504011
Perhaps they are pouring money into 3d modeling and using that to improve their general model quality, idk
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More paint, and bits, have been added.
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>>7505042
Looks good. What model is it?
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>>7505516
YS Masterpieces 1/700 Georgios Averof
>>
Advice on vinyl tracks? I tried my first go at heating them but it made a mess I had to cut off and so I just superglued the remains together.
It also made a mess.
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>>7505713
Staples.
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So, I was doing some spring cleaning today and decided to get all of my started kits in one place. Hoo boy....
I have a problem
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>>7506359
nice to see a kit that aint the same generic shite
>>
>>7506359
based russian tank bro
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>>7506359
christ, I get antsy when I have anything more than one build going at a time
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>>7506359
I've seen worse, boomers with money and a hoarding mentality can have stashes that looks like a smaller hobby shop
>>
>>7506853
That's his started kits, not his stash.
That said: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235028263-nostalgia-its-not-what-it-used-to-be/&
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As a beginner, is this a good brush to invest in?
https://www.amazon.ca/Tamiya-Spray-Work-HG-Airbrush-Super/dp/B000J49XC8/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=tamiya+airbrush&qid=1556005680&s=gateway&sr=8-1
>>
>>7507738
no. for that price you can get something more established.
paasche talon.
something by Iwata.
Harder Steenbeck Ultra.
>>
Anyone have any experience with home-printing decals? And where would you get pdfs of historical decals? I know warhammer fans have plenty.
Or if it's a case where you have to make your own images to print, would there be any guides about getting the right image dimensions for each piece?
>>
>>7508092
>would there be any guides about getting the right image dimensions for each piece?
If you're really lucky you might find something, probably in a book aimed at modellers, but otherwise it's time for some proper research.
>>
>>7508142
Eh, I suppose. I found a good reference for the technical side of getting the image you want to make "model sized" come out properly.
The actual dimensions of specific things like stars/crosses etc wasn't so much what I was asking, because basically every model kit will have some of those in the proper dimension, and it'll often be a no-brainer what size a roundel would be. What I was intimidated by was pixel count and the like. Not figuring out what size the end product should be, but making an image on the computer come out the right size and quality.

http://imansolas.freeservers.com/Creating_My_Own_Decals.html
>>
>>7508092
I just print a lot of copies of it to get the sizing of it right. To make the images, i use inkscape. Either that or illustrator are ideal cause vector graphics are best for this sort of thing. Failing that just make it as big as possible.
>>
Also ime its pretty easy to get the decals looking real nice and sharp once printed, at least for what ive done with em (1/72 airplanes) so i wouldnt sweat about making it 50000x50000 if youre gonna use raster instead of vector, a tenth of that is probably fine.
>>
also, forgot to mention, to get historical decals i just trace over images in inkscape, wings palette is good for planes, also whats amazing is pictures of decal sheets. Saves a lot of money tracing em and printing em.
>>
>>7509408
>>7509412
>>7509418
Cool thanks. I never heard of inkscape or wings palette before. Nor do I really understand what vector graphics is compared to the alternative(s)?
Tracing over decal sheets is a good idea, but I think decal makers are fairly wise about not making the images available online, they put watermarks over them.
I do have a scanner though, so maybe that can be used to simply copy-paste decals that I have.
>>
Is a gloss topcoat the ONLY way to make this stuff work? I’ve tried it on plastic, on enamel, on acrylic, and on matte top coat, and every time it horribly stains in ways the thinner can’t wash off.
>>
>>7510079
Do you wait for it to dry or not?
I've never used it and am unclear how it's supposed to be used.
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>>7510079
You're supposed to very carefully apply small drops into crevices, don't just brush it on all over like a normal wash.
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>>7510095
I’ve tried both ways. Either way it stains.
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>>7510079
yes. the gloss coat it what makes it work.
a matt surface being rough grips the wash, that's why it stains.
>>
I've been planning to do some stop motion with my toys but since I don't have much room I thought of making disassemblable dioramas so I can store them away when I'm not using them.
Would doing them in cardboard and styrofoam work fine? Do I absolutely need an airbrush to paint them well or painting by hand is fine? Any other advice?
>>
>>7510079
You should be doing a gloss coat always anyway, for the decals.

>Matt paint
>gloss varnish
>do the decals, washes, weathering
>sealing gloss or matt varnish over it all
>>
>>7510079
>horribly stains in ways the thinner can’t wash off.
It means your matte coat is too grainy and was probably applied as a dry coat.
>>
If I can't have an airbrush in my current situation, would a rattlecan be a better alternative to applying gloss coats etc. by hand? I've been using Vallejo's paint on primer which works mostly, but brush painting varnishes always seem to fuck up.
>>
>>7510635
>sealing in weathering with a top coat
Never fucking do this. It makes the model look dull
>>
>>7511074
Rattlecans can work but their solvents tend to be quite hot so it can ruin any undercoat see pic
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I am used to Modelcollect kits including tons of spare parts used other versions of their kits, but this is ridiculous.
>Open T-64A
>It includes the metal barrel and some photo etched from their more modern T-64s
I am not mad, the kit isn't supposed to include one, but is impressive they find it cheaper to just include it in all their T-64 kits as long as it keeps the manufacture process streamlined.
>>
>>7511741
>I am used to Modelcollect kits including tons of spare parts used other versions of their kits
Could you elaborate on this?
>>
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>>7511261
Had this happen to my KV-1. Felt really bad man.
>>
man I had a shitty day. had really trouble painting this part, bent my airbrush needle, then when id fixed that and was putting airbrush back together, thread snapped off. only place that sells the part cheap wont sell to me because I had problems with them before. sometimes it just feels like the odds are stacked against you.
>>
>>7511828
For example the runners inside this specific kit include: 2 upper glacis, 2 side covers, 3 lower turrets, 2 heavy machineguns (a NSV and a DShK), laser sensors, 2 dive fording tubes, 3 barrels one of them metal, ERA bricks, smoke dischargers, 2 ammo boxes, etc. Keep in mind the kit it's an early T-64 so most of those are unnecessary to assembly the kit.
The do so the other variants of the same chassis they sell (T-64B, T-64BV, etc) share most of the runners, they just include one lower hull per kit and clip some of the upper turrets.
This happens with most of their kits (t-64s, t-72s, t-80s, E-100s, etc)
>>
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rechargeable airbrush compressor.
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>>7511977
This looks massively on unwieldy and like it would take a lot of time to get used to at best and massively unusable at worst.
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>>7511977
Does it function as a vape?
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>>7510366
You can make them however you want, just make something you like the look of.
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>>7512042
Slap on a short hose and I could kinda see it's usefulness.
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>>7512696
I still don’t know. I’m assuming this thing is light enough you would end up turning it into a flail, but heavy enough it will throw your aim off using as the pic shows.
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>>7512834
I mean long enough to still be on a table/lap. So like 3ft or so.
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>>7512696
I am pretty sure the pressure would drop below usable levels if you add a hose. This thing is more of a portable fan than a "compressor"
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>>7511090
I've found spraying a satin coat after washes and oils and applying drybrush, dirt and pigments on top makes for a realistic look.
>>
>>7513018
I was talking more about how some people put a varnish coat on their models as the last step
>>
Working on a revell p47. How about you?
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>>7513182
Pics? Been two weeks since anyone but me posted any of their builds...
As for mine I just ripped off the ventilators, cut them down, put them back on and then gave the deck a wash.
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>>7513205
It's still on the sprue, just got the interior painted green.
Your ship model is impressive. What percentage do you think it's done?
>>
>>7513210
Stating some percentage would simply suggest that I know much better than I do how long time things have taken and are likely to take, but I'm guessing we're in the second half at least here. All the "stare at the manual for three hours wondering how to approach something" parts are all over. The ship boats need a bit of assembly (stick on rudders, supports, for a few props with shafts and supports) and painting. The ship itself needs a wash all over (this includes the turrets sitting elsewhere on cocktail sticks). Clean up of that, then go over it with oils for weathering and tonal variation. Glue on boats, main deck railings and the small deck guns. Rig it. Done.
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>>7511090
At least for AFVs that's the idea. I do the drybrushing over it tho
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>>7513205
can't wait for that deck weathering, love how your other ships turned out.
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I got an ecto-1 cheap recently. not interested in doing it as ecto-1. more interested in making a custom ambulance. not decided on paint colour yet. main task will be reshaping the back windows but first its just a case of shaving and filling the ecto stuff.
>>
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>>7513182
started putting together two hell cannons from ace just to do something quick before starting on a sd.kfz 222. I've been busy recently so the cannons aren't coming along very well and I haven't even thought about the panzergrau-autism I will have to go through with the armored car
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>>7513460
One possible approach is to be somewhat obvious about the re-converting, the story being of course that it actually is the Ecto-1, post its ghost busting days and for some reason turned back into a very budget-conscious ambulance. Maybe an animal ambulance from a somewhat shady veterinary hospital or something?

>>7513479
I've been thinking a bit about those guns for similar reasons (though I kinda ended up with a bunch of WW2 guns instead, more of those in the future) so it'll be interesting to see how things go for you there.
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>>7501233
>checks dubs on /toy/
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I strained my back. Let's see how fast I will fall asleep.
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>>7513670
>all the muscles
does that mean youre going to shit yourself?
>>
>>7513670
>Zvezda Ka-29
Oof
>>
Got my first airbrush, fairly pleased even if it's a Chinese knockoff.
I'm wondering though whether white spirits will work as cleaner, or if just water by itself will work for acrylics. And is there a risk of rust if the inside is left wet after cleaning?
>>
>>7514381
What you need to clean depends on the paint. Trying to wash out acrylics with white spirits will be like trying to wash out butter with plain tap water (try mixing some with each other and you'll see). Water will work somewhat on acrylics, I generally start with that to get the bulk of crap out cheaply. Then to make sure it's clean I go for a bit of denatured alcohol. If shit's fucked and you really nee dot get some stubborn dried-in acrylics out then it's time for lacquer thinner, but that's rarely necessary.
Your airbrush isn't made of iron, so it'll never rust. If you let a lot of tap water dry out in there on a regular basis you might get some mineral deposits in there some day I guess, but just blow and shake out the worst and you should be fine.
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>>7514385
Thanks.
>>
what the fuck is the point on pre chroming a sprue if youre going to put the attach point in a really visible place? which means if you want to cut it off the sprue, its going to need re painting anyway?
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>>7514844
Selling to kids and others who don't really give a fuck.
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>>7514846
it annoys me because the pre chroming is usually so good that you know you aint gonna be able to match it even with the best chrome paint. how the fuck do they do such a good job chroming that shit.
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>>7513566
put them together, fit was ok. Mold quality isn't great but it's serviceable. Biggest issue with assembly is that I'm a bit wary of sanding now that everything's together since the plastic is a bit brittle.
Looking forward to painting and weathering them.

Also these things are huge, I'm so used to 1:35 scale that I thought they looked small but no
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gd6_qZ_TJ5A
>>
Picked this up on eBay for 8 American fun bucks. It’s precolored and snap fit, but with a paint job and some weathering I think it could look dank. It will have to wait until the t-40 is done...eventually l
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>>7515070
>Also these things are huge, I'm so used to 1:35 scale that I thought they looked small but no
That's quite the contrast to the 1/72 Ace gun kit I ended up going for.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lg0DEb93bgc
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>>7514856
I know right.
>Chrome part
>Huge mold seam
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>>7515072
that was a pretty good catch, always wanted to build one, must look really good painted and weathered.
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>>7515070
>>7513479
That's a really interesting build.
>ACE
I have brought 2 ACE kits so far and they were so bad I promised to never do it again. Pic related.
>>
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>>7515072
Another kit I've been thinking about.
Bandai's SW kits do have all the details and whatnot you could hope for in a "proper" scale model kit, they don't cut any corners there to get the snap fit bit to work. The snap if does mean the tolerances on any mating surfaces are ridiculously tight though, so be careful about getting any paint there.
>>
>>7515077
I’m probably going jig to focus on the fact these things in lore are like the bastard child of a ju87 and a A10 add stuff like kill markers (something the ILM models apparently had) and something we only saw once in Star Wars pic related
>>
>>7515082
that would be pretty cool.
>>
Might be a stupid question (it's certainly a noob question), but do you need to expel all the air from an airbrush with a tank before disconnecting the brush and/or the tube?
>>
>>7515216
safer to empty the tank first. disconnecting the hose or brush will also empty the tank, just a lot faster and maybe a little violently
>>
Just finished assembling my very first model! I’m not super happy with how it turned out because I spilled glue on the hull and it got ugly, but it still looks cool. I obviously still have to paint it. Any tips?
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>>7515217
Thanks. Glad to know my instincts were right.

>>7515222
It looks good for a big modern model if I'm judging it right. Meng leopard?
I can't even put ikea furniture together without putting something on backwards.
>>
>>7515225
It’s a Type 10 from Tajima. Idk, I like these modern tanks better. I wanna do a Cold War one next though.
>>
>>7515226
Ah, that's cool. I like that weird angular shape on the turret. Apparently the ammo they use nowadays doesn't really cause shot traps so they can get away with them
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>>7515229
Yeah, it’s pretty cool. I like how low the turret is too.
>>
What do you guys do with your finished models? I just give them away to family and friends and shit, its always cool walking into my sister's apartment and seeing my p51 just sitting there on the living room bookcase
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>>7515222
>Any tips?
Use primer.
>>
>>7515222
thin your paints, work in layers
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>>7515368
>a model she didn't want but now has to keep cos her bro gave it her, gathering dust, itching for the day when she can get rid of it.

id never force my shit on other people.
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>>7515909
maybe they actually like each other, and maybe she has enough of a passing interest in planes to want to have it?

>>7515368
I keep the ones I like in some shitty flat pack bookshelf next to my bed. I call it my monument to virginity. As I make better builds some of the older ones that don't make the cut get thrown out. Eventually when I finish converting the 2nd bedroom to a library they'll be moved to the bookshelves that I'll build in there.
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>>7515909
Trust me if she didn't want it, she'd give it back
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>>7515368
I moved and I have plenty of space
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>>7515715
>>7515752
Thanks guys. I’ve never painted a model before either and I’m sorta nervous, so I’m watching plenty of videos first to at least get a good idea of what I should be doing.
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>>7515226
>Tajima
The fuck?
Also you could paint it with spray cans if you want better results. The camo scheme is pretty simple. You can use those sticky poster shits like blutack for masking
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>>7515931
>>7516006
i got 2 ikea glas cabinets and might get a 3rd one. The pic is from a time when i only had one built up, but you get the idea.

I built some models for other people, but usually only if i get asked for it or if i know that the person would like it, for example i built a Bundeswehr Luchs recce armored car for my dad because he was a driver for one when he did his conscription time during the 80s.
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>>7516084
My phone autocorrected to Tajima, it’s a restaurant I go to once in a while lol
I’ll look up some videos on painting scale models with spray cans, ty
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>>7516086
I might swap my flatpack crap for a glass cabinet. the models are getting too dusty
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>>7497618
Waiting for the glorious Großtraktor...
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>>7516112
These Ikea cabinets aren't the greatest, but they work and they are affordable.
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>>7516112
>>7516224
Personally I went with a half-height Billy + glass shelves and doors.
>>
>>7516224
>>7516305
I figured they wouldn't be the best. They'll just be a stop-gap until I get my proper shelves built. Could be a year or two, and remodelling makes a lot of dust
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Redpill me on Tamiya paints. Why are they so prevalent among scale modellers compared to the usual war gamer acrylics like Vallejo MC?
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Group pic of all the little armory weapons I painted last month. Building them takes less than an hour but painting is another story, extra toughness in the finish is needed for handling and use with 1/12 figs but overall really fun kits to do
>>7513205
Nice work so far and cheers for putting up with resin ship shenanigans. I'm not as active here as I used to be and what I've been building lately isn't exactly thread related, but I can see a general dip in posting compared from previous years. A slow and steady decline it seems
>>7516883
The TL;DR would be that they airbrush really nicely and are easy to get almost everywhere, there are more factors tho
>>
>>7516883
I think they're some of the best paints. They're like you said, easy to find, most stores sell them (even major retailers like hobby lobby).

In addition, they airbrush beautifully, especially when thinned with Mr. Color lacquer thinner. They also thin very easily, start with a 1:1 paint thinner ratio, but you can easily go much more dilute up to 90%+ thinner to paint for doing shading, or mist coats for example.

It's super easy to clean up too, I use windex to clean it through my airbrush when finished, and then load a new color.

It's not a standard acrylic either, it sprays more like a lacquer but it's still acrylic paint.

I've used many paints over the years, starting with enamels like model master, then acrylics like vallejo / AK Interactive, and I found neither to be particularly impressive so I ended up going back to Tamiya and still use it as my primary paint.
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>>7516923
Large scale aircraft guy is that you?
Nice guns. What figures are you using them on?
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>>7517099
Nah I'm the guy who builds paper panzers mainly, pic related are some from a wip pic (albeit quite dated but I don't have a family pic of all builds together). Last one I've done was a flakpanzer e-100.
As for the guns I only have megami devices and some frame arms girls that I'm doing for a little army. But being 1/12 any fig at that scale would do
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did some experiments with heavy rust on some leftover barrels, not sure how it went. Maybe the aught to be somewhat darker and less uniform.
Also base-coated the cannons, the black one is going to get a sand-green camouflage.
The rust-brown one is a bit tricky since I didn't exactly think things through when I painted it, just thought "it's going to be rusty". Maybe it's possible to use a sponge to get some irregular contrasting color as if from the original color (the hairspray method might work here too).
>>
>>7516923
Impressive. Any tips on how to paint the wood on the AKs?
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>>7517894
yeah, i also need information on this
>>
>>7517906
>>7517894
#metoo
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>>7516923
where can i find guns like these? they look 1/32 im guessing.
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>>7513566
that's some creative thinking, but after I reshape the all the windows It wont even be the same model as the ecto.
I meant a classic custom car like pic related. im kinda leaning towards green flake atm.
ill have to build some interior leather seats also. the ones it comes with are weird.
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>>7518064
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>>7517087
where does hobby lobby sell Tamiya paints? i've only ever seen them stock the primer and split the difference between Vallejo and Model Master.
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>>7518174
The more I hear about things here, the more I'm convinced that Hobby Lobby-land is modelling hell where accursed souls toil away with shit tools at crap like ancient "Revell"-of-US kits they thought were good deals because the price tags were kinda small.
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>tfw you like how tamiya paint smells when you open the jar
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>>7518596
>that smell when you open a new model kit box
Brings me back 3 years to when I bought my first big lot of models, opened each box and then smelled the insides.
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>>7518596
>the smell off Tamiya extra thin
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don't inhale the glue lads...
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revell glue smells bad
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you guys think meng would sell this mini alone?

>>7518984
tamiya super thin smells glorious
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3rd model I have built so far
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>>7519017
Looks pretty decent apart form the missing bit in the wing. Have you given it any varnish though? Decals feel glossier than the paint here. To grow start looking into panel lining, be it with an oil/enamel wash you mix yourself or some ready made stuff.
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I have AK Interactive's range of acrylic varnishes: Gloss, Satin and Matte.
I have a big issue with them actually not working as intended, especially the gloss. Their coverage is incredibly poor and I feel I need 10 coats to achieve a good coat.
The gloss is alright to use out of the bottle, but satin and matte are both incredibly thick, but I still thin all 3 with water/thinner before I airbrush them.
Once I do manage to thin them, when I airbrush they have very bad coverage and really don't act like they're supposed to. I can spray a thin layer of gloss (so I don't spray one thick coat) and I can wait for 2 weeks for it to dry. I have finished a Me410 a month ago that I sprayed with the gloss coat, and not only could I only do one thin coat, that thin coat is *still* tacky to the touch right now.
What on fucking earth is going on here? I might as well sell them on eBay and get something better.
I've been looking at Mr Colour/Mr Hobby lacquer super gloss, but I don't know what to use to thin it since the majority of my stuff is acrylic. There's so many variations of their gloss too, and I don't know which one is acrylic and which one is lacquer.
I just want a good gloss varnish for fucks sake.
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>>7519034
no primer or varnish, just thinned acrylics
I'm gonna be buying a bunch of painting supplies soon, including an airbrush, so i'm looking forward to it
>missing bit in the wing
damn, didn't even notice that, thanks

Here's what I have built so far
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>>7519039
I'm all out of clues when it comes to AK, just guessing I'd say it really doesn't like what you're pouring in to thin them. Tamiya works nicely for me, toss in some of their retarder if you wanna thin with X-20A, but I prefer Mr Levelling Thinner. Of course, that's a lacquer thinner so adjust ventilation accordingly, and it probably shouldn't just be your model that's masked here.
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>>7519053
I don't understand what the issue with AK's varnishes are, honestly. I have used acrylic thinner, simple water and a combo of both and nothing makes it any better. In fact, first time I used the gloss varnish, I used it straight out of the bottle (after shaking vigorously) and it STILL has the exact same tacky feel and poor coverage as with thinning.
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>>7518992
No. There's nothing in it for them to just sell the figure. The whole thing is a marketing stunt to sell their kits for a higher price
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>>7519075
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>>7518992
Maybe ask for it in some trade groups on facebook? Surely someone bought a tank kit that came with it and does not want or need it?
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>>7519042
ayy we have the same shitty little monitor
>>
bump?
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>>7519306
I found it in a dumpster
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>>7519039
I use Alclad2's Aqua Gloss Clear. No thinning, no mixing, straight outta the bottle.
Works great and cleans with water. For finishing I use Vallejo varnish.
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>>7520360
Welp, got myself Mr Hobby GX100 Super Clear and levelling thinner to go along with it. I just want a durable coat that's super glossy and I can do all those fancy enamel wash techniques on it
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>>7520413
Be sure to report how it works. Always good to have an alternative.
Excuse me if i'm wrong, but doesn't enamel thinner/ white spirit dissolve Super Clear when using leveling thinner?
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>>7520498
I have no idea, but I watched a YouTube channel called Plasmo do this where he mixes the Super Clear with levelling thinner of the same brand, then does washes over the top of it. I have no idea if enamel washes on top eat through or not though, I'll be able to report on it in a week's time.
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>>7520498
For example, this video where I watched him do that technique: 8:18 > 9:50
https://youtu.be/sX82TrUbgXs?t=498
He applies the GX100 to protect the paint, does the underside, again with the gloss to protect the paint, then the decals, gloss over that and then he adds Tamiya panel line wash and oil+enamel washes on top of that. He didn't add a different gloss coat on top of the GX100 so I assume that that gloss with the levelling thinner doesn't react bad with enamel washes
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>>7520498
>when using leveling thinner?
The thinner should be gone when the paint is dry, that's kinda what it means for the paint to dry after all.
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>>7519042
>>7519306
>>7520137
Same. It makes a good aux monitor.
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>>7518992
how do you get this mini? I can't find any info on their website. Would love to get their technical truck and if I could get this too that would be amazing.
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>>7520607
>>7518992
never mind I found it.
http://www.meng-model.com/new.php?id=847
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>>7520552
>>7520137
>>7519306
/toy/ confirmed for cheap bastards
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>>7519053
Mr. Color varnishes are the best. I use GX 100 and I'll never use any other gloss varnish ever again. They also make a varnish that prevents yellowing, though I've never had any issues with my GX100 yellowing anyways.

As for matte varnishes, I have several varieties of matte, semi matte and flat Alclad varnishes that I've been using for years and they all work excellent. You could probably get some silicon pigment and just add it to GX100 in varying amounts to create a varnish with that as well though.
>>
>>7518402
>>7518174
My local one had them last time I was there, but that was a year ago or so.

I agree with the other poster though, most mainline art supply / hobby stores have a trash selection of modelling supplies, it's always better to use a local hobby shop that specializes in plastic models instead if you have one.
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>>7520688
well, toys and model kits are not cheap
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first time trying the hairspray technique and it went pretty well i think. I wanted to weather it pretty heavily which meant that I scratched off all the paint on some spots but I found it easy to just reapply the base rust color with a brush where that happened.
Also I don't actually know if it's realistic that they are this rusted, sure in some pictures they seem pretty worn but they still have to withstand the pressure of firing without blowing up
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>>7520615
they even have a trump counterpart, with the M1A2 Abrahams
cute
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founded that for a cheap price on amazon
should I buy it or its a scam
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>>7520832
Bigger picture for ya lads
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>>7520832
What is it, a pair of tanks in 1/700 or something?
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>>7520839
2X 1/72 tanks
for around 30$
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>>7520838
Ok, that's visible. Italieri usually ain't hot shit, but odds are you won't have much to choose from for that subject. Scalemates claims a new tool (2011) but I wonder. Would be an Esci tooling form the seventies otherwise, IIRC their small scale tanks have a reputation for being ok, but as old as they are they're hardly brilliant by today's standards. Dunno if a 2011 Italieri tooling would be better or worse, perhaps a bit better? Now wheter or not any specific amazon marketplace seller is trying to scam you is hard for us to say, or if you're suggesting the kit itself might be a scam... time to grow up a bit perhaps? Drop the internet exaggeration speak and all that?
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I was not ready for this much detail. I'm on like page four and hours of assembly and haven't even touched paint yet. . .
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>>7520806
That's amazing. Is Meng generally this based?
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>>7520897
what is it? a truck of some sort?
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>>7518402
It's not all bad. They stock some new release Airfix, Academy and Tamiya kits for cheaper than you can get them on the internet, and their other supplies are okay. Definitely doesn't compare to a real hobby shop, but those are few and far between in most places, and it's sometimes a crapshoot on whether they'll try to sell you 50 year old kits for a benjamin because they're run by boomers who KNOW WHAT THEY GOT.

Online would be cheaper if it weren't for the fact that you need to order a lot of stuff at once to get decent shipping rate. It's all fine if you're good at planning a large project, but not so useful if you spilled a paint bottle and need a replacement.

If you want to see real modeling hell try Michaels. There's basically no kit on those shelves with a tool date newer than 1979, which is coincidentally the date their clumpy testors paint was manufactured
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>>7520931
Yea It's a LMTV
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what color do i paint it
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>>7520977
SS Autumn
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>>7520977
A largely green late war camo with lines?
Something like the front one here (although I by no means mean to suggest anything about the scheme other than a similar proportion of green - take any other appropriate colours and put them in any shape you want).
>>
>>7520986
>>7520989
No im thinking ambush
also fuck doing zimmerit
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>>7520998
Ambush is quintissential Tiger. If you haven't done it then it's worth trying at least once.
I imagine larger scale is easier to get the spots right too.
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>>7518103
i was hoping for a like considering how hard jap websites are to navigate
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>>7521059
*link*
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>>7520607
the pickup with the zpu is a good deal
they make several variants:
Pickup w/ZPU-1
Pickup w/ZPU-2
Pickup w/ZU-23-2
u can even build a china wariant of ZPU-2 (i got this kit for like 20€).
Its 2 kits in one + u get several parts for stash
the barels are slide molded but i recomend geting the metal ones if u can
>>
>>7520615
>how do we make some nice box art for our model?
>just take a picture of the unpainted model and throw the cartoon filter in GIMP over it
>>
>>7522285
yea I hope the model is higher quality than their photoshop skills.
>>7521950
I love the model of Toyota. If I could get one legally in the U.S. I would, but only mines using them as "off road only" can really attain them because of our shitty EPA trash.
>>
I'm fucking awful at these
made a 60's ju-52 airfix finished the paint job with a huge disapointment
>>
>>7520719
They're pretty cheap desu
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>>7518992
Get Tamiya's SU-76M if you want a 1/35 figure of Putin.
>>
Brainlet here, are the airfix models that come with paint a good place to start with this stuff?
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>>7523041
yup
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>>7522571
well there was plenty of information and builds out there to show you how to do it properly.
but no, you just couldn't be bothered and didn't want to spend a lot of money but was expecting the same results?
>>
What are the thouhs on Zvezda here?
I got a 1/72 P-39N to try and give scale modeling a second go, and I am not sure if it is my lack of experience or the quality of the kit, because I found a lot of parts not aligning right and had to do a lot of sanding.
I have some tank models from my previous attempt at this hobby and I don't think those had such problems.
>>
>>7522571
First step to being gud is to be bad.

If you havent got an airbrush id recommend getting one, airbrushing makes it so painting is actually fun.

Doing some preshading will help the end result immensely and its pretty simple. For the silvery bits one piss easy method that works okay is rub n buf.

I like building old shite kits myself but if you hold yourself to unrealistic expectations getting a tamigawa kit might be a good idea. But building old and shit kits has taught me first how to properly do sanding/filling and then how to do some scratchbuilding stuff much faster than i wouldve learned building good kits that are braindead builds.
>>
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>>7523239
They seem to vary a lot. I've heard horror stories about some of their old stuff. Some of their recent stuff on the other hand gets a lot of praise. The 1/72 Tiger of theirs I built went together pretty nicely and has an ok amount of details I'd say, despite being a snap-fit kit aimed somewhat at the wargaming market. (The snap-fit part did make for a not entirely intuitive build though as some things went together in rather different ways to what I'm used to.)
>>
>>7523239
Simply put
Old stuff - bad
New stuff - good
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>>7523422
but how old is old and how new is new?
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>>7517894
>>7517906
>>7517908
I didn't take a lot of wip pics so this will do. The rpk was done more than a year ago but was more or less the same process I followed for the pkm, for the latter I went for a finer grain with more contrasting colors so they don't disappear and streamlined the whole process a bit after what I learned with the rpk but further refinements might be needed if I do more wood in LA builds.
Basically the process goes:
>base color, for ak/rpk/pkm/etc is usually an orange brown so use that
>pick three browns: very dark, dark, medium
>paint the wood veins and grain
>glaze the base color to unify a bit, this depends on how noticeable you want the veins. Also if you did them the way you wanted them already on the painting step just skip this.
>weather if you want to
>varnish
Not exactly revolutionary I would say but really effective.
>>
>>7523491
Check reviews for the individual kits, it's probably not a very straight road from shit to the shit.
>>
i just got my 2nd kit. i did a f14 for my first and this time im going to do a skyline. its a tamiya from 1989. should i follow the instructions exactly for painting? there are 16 colours and i'm not going to buy each one so i will be mixing my own with cheap paints for internal components. i'll focus on getting the body shell looking the best i can with what i have.
>>
>>7523564
>should i follow the instructions exactly for painting?
Well, it isn't like you'll get arrested if you don't.
Though if you want things to be somewhat close to reality then, well, that'd be a good start. Though you can certainly do some mixing and so to get things right without having to buy a dozen pots of paint per kit. Odds are you'll own plenty of greys soon enough anyway. Dunno if specifically going for cheap paint is all that wise though, it may save a penny now but bad tools don't make for much fun.
Of course manufacturers often just go with "near enough" for their preferred colours here, maybe with a bit of mixing, so to really nail it you're often back to not quite following the instructions, but instead doing some very careful and thought-out mixes (or at least bouncing around between paint manufacturers as some get this paint right and others get that paint right) based on a lot of research into just what the hell the proper hue for this or that actually was. For a taste of just how deep that rabbit hole can go, have a look at: http://www.aviationofjapan.com/search?q=amber
>>
>>7523159
Not him, but you can watch tutorials all day but that doesn't mean you'll actually be able to execute it on your first try.
>>
>>7523576
i have decent tools, i just don't have an airbrush so i didn't attempt a realistic weathered paint job on the plane. i will probably get a can of paint for the car body since i will only need one.
>>
>>7523934
whilst its true some skill come with time,
he obviously didn't even make a fucking attempt to help himself.
>>
>>7523954
I'm a broke as that lives far from any place to get good equipment & don't have a lot of times to work on it
>>
>>7523958
you have an internet connection what you complaining about.
>>
>>7523962
not having cash
>>
>>7523973
model paint is what 2 dollars, maybe 3 shipping, you don't need that many, if you wanted them that badly you would have got them. but carry on with the excuses.
>>
>>7523978
carrying on
I'm a dump zoomer that doesn't know wtf is a mail address that can't drive
the closest shop is 20km away and its all in french
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>>7523986
carry on.
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>>7524012
>be me
>zoomer
>never painted model kit
>gets aifix ju-52 as a gift
>wait till winter is over so I can paint
>winter is over
>starts assembling
>starts watching model video's
>complete model
>find old paint
>try it on a part that I won't use
>looks fine
>paints plane with paint
> oh shit it isn't as good as I expected
>tries to find Tamiya paint
>can only find them on the internet
>costs 10$ for one color
>don't have money
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>>7524023
>>tries to find Tamiya paint
>>costs 10$ for one color
The fuck?
>>
>>7524026
now you understand the pain I live
I need to go to another province to find not overpriced paints
>>
>>7524023
I don't know what the general running price for it is, but at my local shop it's like $7 for Tamiya, and $6-7 for Vallejo. Even those little shitter square pots of enamel paint are like $4. And I'm in a fairly well populated area, I can totally see a rural shop gouging prices.
>>
>>7524066
meant for
>>7524026
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>>7524066
>>7524067
It's £2 locally for a tamiya paints locally in my middle of nowhere shop. Same price online as long as you shop around.
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>>7524066
rural Canadian prices are expensive compared to the city or other countries
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>>7524073
Europe seems to care a lot more about models than here in the U.S. Most of the shops here are hardly even for scale models. They're like 10% scale model, 20% trains, 40% RC planes/cars, and 30% random "hobby" shit.
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>>7520977
>1/16

Something I've learned over the years making models, bigger is not always better. It might look cool if you can do it justice, but it's not worth the time and effort, but good luck. Post pics of your progress curious to see how it turns out.
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>>7523495
thanks for sharing, looking really good. What type of paint did you use? Enamel? Oil?
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>>7524102
>bigger is not always better

I thought it was just me, I got so many tard friends who cream themselves on a big but actually terrible kits.
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>>7524087
>Europe
I live there, in a decent sized city. I still mostly buy online.
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>>7520977
>that kit
W-wait a minute...
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>>7524102
That's often because kits in that scale are modified from RC kits.

>>7524023
You don't *need* tamiya paint over damn near any other modelling-specific brand. Look into oil paints if you find acrylics frustrating.
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>>7524023
>>can only find them on the internet
>costs 10$ for one color
his comment wasn't about local prices, he was claiming it was on the fucking internet.
he also couldn't try find the equivalent color in another paint.
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>>7524547
>Look into oil paints if you find acrylics frustrating.
are you suggesting he tries paint a model kit in oil paint because hes too stupid to use acrylics?
you had to of meant enamels?
>>
I want to put on sticked on a P39 I have, not like its paint scheme is correct or anything, but I got 4 roundels, 2 bigger and 2 smaller(~1mm diameter diference), I can't figure out neither from the box nor from google images if the bigger ones go on the side or on the wings(1 on top of left wing and 1 on the underside of the right wing)
>>7523422
>>7523335
I have that Tiger from my first tour with scale models, I had some other models under the belt, felt that I could do several models parallel and ended up mixing and losing parts which demoralized me. I should probably return to them, worse case scenario re purpose them as wrecks. The snap ons do seem higher quality than the P39 I got, alignment was much better on those.
>>
pissed off. tried to bend some plasticard strip 2mm x 2mm.
put it in boiling water, didn't do anything so that doesn't fuking work.

then used a heat gun, but that made it warp and twist and it would cool down to fast to get into position.
>>
do metallic paints leave less brush strokes than normal paint?
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>>7524737
why would them?
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>>7524748
i was thinking the texture or reflectivity might make them less noticeable.
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>>7524759
metallic don't brush well because you need to smooth surface to get the reflectivity.
leveling thinners may help a bit.
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>>7524763
i'll just go with a spray can instead. thanks.
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>>7524772
most will require a gloss black base.
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>>7524778
so primer, gloss black, metallic, then clear coat?
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>>7524805
Unless you can find a gloss black primer. Also if you're going for a really high shine finish I think a very find sand paper may be a good thing between the primer and the gloss coat, to make sure there's no roughness in the primer that doens't drown in the black.
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I'm considering these cannons done, I made them mostly for practice and felt that I learned a few things. Maybe one day I'll put them in a fitting diorama but I have zero experience in those matters
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>>7524882
Not bad. I think the weak side is that the rust red you had underneath on the left one's barrel doesn't quite look like rust to me, and maybe that the chipping is a bit large-flaked as well thus missing the scale. Of course though first attempt and all that, and don't ask me to do better, I'm still one attempt behind you there...
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>>7524538
Fuck I didn't even notice.
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>>7524538
>>7525838
redpill me mates
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>>7525980
You don't want to know.
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Trimmed the ventilators a bit, wash things, glued the turrets and boats on. Modulation next.
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Finally work on one of my started kits. It's been a while. It's hard for me not to overdo the chipping. I start by chipping around the hatches but then everything else looks too clean so I start adding a bunch of random chips to everything and sometimes I can't get a consistent thickness
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>>7526127
The chipping along the top of the barrel makes em think of a mould line, apart form that it'll probably look nice enough once the rets of the weathering is there.
>>
How many wounded/killed soldiers are too many and how much blood/gore is too much for a diorama? I mean, saving private Ryan had it pretty bad, but would hacked-up 1/72 soldiers with blood everywhere just look goofy?
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>>7526138
That probably depends a whole lot more on how well you do it than anything resembling a specific number.
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>>7526142
I suppose so, but there is an effect even IRL where deaths and injuries, especially amputations, look cartoony or "like it's in a movie". I imagine it just gets amplified when the scale of the figures is so small.
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>>7520841
Don't buy it.

Its their easy-assmebly line. As you can see on the bigger pic, the tanks consist out of 4-6 parts each with very limited detail.
This is for wargamers mostly. Or really new beginners/kids
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>>7526143
It really all comes down to the situation of the diorama. What do you have in mind?
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>>7526069
modulation with oils or some highlights with a lighter color?
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>>7526155
Omaha Beach.
The poses of the wounded I don't want to make too outrageous, and certainly not "the sea is red" of saving private ryan, and no guts flying everywhere, but I have enough figures that got bent or fucked up coming off the sprue that I could make some wounded. For example, one mortar guy who's kneeling and covering his ears somehow lost his foot coming off the sprue, well if I put him lying on his back it looks like he's in pain from losing his foot. Beyond that a guy who can't stand up straight getting a "squib" so it looks like he's just been shot, and maybe a handful of dead bodies which would be mostly intact but lying in pools of blood.
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>>7526162
Oil. Put down some dots, smear it around in hopefully suitable ways.

>>7526165
If you want to keep the effect a bit muted, maybe do something like "the day after", with drifting sand or snow or some such having partially covered things. So at first you see a number of lumps here and there in the ground, and then you realize what all of those lumps were before they got shot. Somewhat in the spirit of this, just a ship sailing about at first glance, but...
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>>7526171
No, I think it'll be mid-way through the battle, or a landing wave immediately after the bunkers have been cleared out. It depends on how well I can represent the Germans, since my main focus is on the Americans and I don't have any experience making complex dioramas including bunkers and so on.
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>>7526138
10~20% casualty rate is pretty bad.
Keep in mind most are wounded rather than fatalities.
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>>7524707
I too have had no luck bending plastic. I think what no one tells us is that a form is needed. If you can heat up the part and then press it into a form until it cools you may have some luck getting the right shape.
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>>7524538
>>7525838
i've just started on the engine and transmission
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can you mix metallic paint with normal paint. like i'm gonna buy chrome or aluminum and i also want a grayish metallic paint but i only need a couple tiny pieces so can i just mix the metal one with some black?
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>>7527309
If it's compatible paints then by and large you usually can. Though some metallics have a remarkable ability to fall out of suspension, so stir frequently and paint really thin layers I guess.
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>>7527309
Yes that works. It makes the paint slightly less "metallic" though.
There's also metallic mediums you can buy.
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>>7527321
this is what i was hoping. going for a dark gray thats slightly metallic but i dont want to get a full pot.
>>
does anyone have a good guide on how to make weighted wheels?
I have some rubber (or soft plastic or whatever) ones that I think would look really nice with a slight deflation
>>
cannot hold something very precise in place whilst applying glue to it. need 3 hands.
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>>7527613
this thing is literally called "third hand" and you can buy it in all shapes and sizes
>>
Anyone here use the chinesium AS186 compressor? 24L shop compressor is getting pretty old now. Plus it's pretty loud but due to a large tank I don't have to run it too often. So I'm debating between the AS186 and a new shop compressor. The AS186 is quiet but the tank is small and it'd be running more. I've actually had one 6 years ago and from what I remember it used to get pretty hot after like 30 minutes of work because the tank was so small and it worked almost constantly while spraying. Don't know if it was because it was defective or something else. So I sent it back and got my money back. There's also a compressor my LHS is selling that uses a fridge compressor to pump air.
https://poligonas.net/prekes/irankiai-13-ltmob-models/kompresoriai-597-lt-modeliai/16-l-min-sergej-turilov-kompresorius-aerografui-st-1-5672-detail
What compressors are you guys using and what would be your recommendations?
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>>7527798
I've gotten an AS186 very recently and while I haven't used it for more than 15 minutes at a time it seems fine so far.
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>>7527613
Line the parts up then tape it such that the tape is a hinge.
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>>7527806
upboated. good idea.
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>>7524407
Trumpeter's 1/16 kits are actually pretty nice, and designed from the ground up to be display pieces, not RC kits.

That said, I agree, 1/16 is just so large and if you have the space to display them, by all means make them, but at the same time I just hate big model kits these days and avoid them for smaller scale stuff that's easier to build, paint, weather and display.
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>>7528129
it would be a fantastic kit if trumpeter could actually mold parts that weren't warped and flashed to fuck
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>>7528232
What's the newest trumpeter kit you've built? Their new kits are pretty great
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How do you guys do tracks that come in single links?
I have done Tamiya kits with the single piece rubber track and have used Meng workable tracks that I just piece together to form a strip and then paint it, but I am at a loss when it comes to single pieces
Like the 1/35 trumpeter T-62
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>>7528505
a 109 g2 trop that was also miserable

>>7529183
slow drying glue and making sections then fitting them on the wheels
once they dry remove the sections and paint them
>>
new thread maybe?
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finished my first ever kit that isnt a gundam, first time using glue and paint, 1/72 mustang iv airfix, how did i do lads? i think it looks pretty janky but im proud of it
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>>7530226
ok for a first model, use PVA (wood glue) for transparent parts/canopies so they don't fog up, start looking into washes/filters for more depth, shit is basically talent-in-a-bottle, for aircraft you wanna do panel-line washes and shit too. Learning to brush paint and layer/blend is always a useful skill, for minis/figs and gundams too. more tones done well means more depth/realism on a model.
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>>7530226
you need to thin the paint more if you are brush painting.
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>>7530226
Looks better than my first, but lots of room to improve I must admit.
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>>7526127
Started weathering this thing
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>>7531117
Also guess what. I've started ANOTHER kit. A 1/72 Zvezda Yak-130. Everything looks pretty good but the panel lines are too shallow for my liking and I bet you couldn't make a wash after priming, painting and a couple of gloss coats.
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>>7530327
this kit came with acryllic paint so i used water to thin it, i used 1 part water to 8 parts paint, does it need more thinner?
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>>7530378
i would love to improve so please critique me on what needs to be improved
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>>7531594
yes
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>>7531117
looks really cool
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>>7531594
>i used 1 part water to 8 parts paint, does it need more thinner?
It's more about the result than a specific ratio, and different paints need to be thinned different amounts. If you look at it you'll see that the paint isn't smooth, uniform and flat (not flat as in matte, flat as in lying flat on the surface underneath without protruding upwards any). Instead your paint has gone on thick and uneven enough to give the surface a lot of texture it didn't have before. That means your paint wasn't sufficiently thinned. Done right the paint will basically just add colour to things, not thickness. At that point you will probably also need to paint a number of coats to get good coverage.
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>>7531117
Dry pigments? I think it could have benefited from both overall and dot filters first to both reduce contrast against the chipping and make the chipping more justified as everythign's worn and faded, but maybe the end result will prove me wrong.
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>>7530223
bump?
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im having a hard time justifying buying a can of spray paint i need for only one model. i'm not sure if i will use it for much else, but i don't want to brush paint it.
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>>7533664
most of the paints people collect are only for one model. with no idea if you`ll ever use it again. but its nice to have there if you do.
I think most people have the mentality that they want to make models in general. theyre not just going to build one and then stop.
some people do that. you could sell it on, make a little back perhaps.
>>
I think im actually getting spots from all this micro plastic dust from sanding getting in my pores.
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Type 3 with some other 1/72 tanks. Not yet finished but getting there
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>>7533734
I'm pretty sure your lungs would be terminally fucked before that happened.
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>>7533718
I got lucky and found a really close colour at an arts and crafts store and it was half the price and the last can so I grabbed it.
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>>7533892
Have you ever considered doing an oil wash followed by a gloss varnish? I find dark shiny models look more realistic compared to plain matte finishes
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>>7533973
its testors paint and it seems really runny. i had it in warm water before spraying. should i not have done that?
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>>7534224
Not him , but it's pretty tricky with armor really.
Armor paint is matte by design. That said it is still affected by light, and is not absolutely matte neither.
Take a look at pic related, the paint is evidently matte overall, yet there are colors variations due to the light angle and even some shine on the canon and some parts of the turret.

This is usually replicated with basecoat highlights and a matt finish. It technically isn't correct but they do feel a lot more real that way.

That said there are some tanks around that do look more glossy, may give it a try.
>>
New thread
>>7534857
>>7534857
>>7534857
>>7534857
>>
>>7534548
no actually that is the preferred method of prepping paint for spraying. runs sounds like youre spraying too close and thick. just mist layers on and build up gradually.
your first layer should be very thin actually, it gives the following layers something to grip to.
let the layers dry between painting. don't rush.



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