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ooga booga less shitposting edition

>Secret Santa 2018 album:
https://imgur.com/a/UWRYKEq

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
https://mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Weathering hobby magazines
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/971c66wpst1pe/Weather

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palettes
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_DMPPqgeZKk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QMPn5po5-m0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
https://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>Who's Johnny, she said, and smiled in her special way
https://1d4chan.org/wiki/Johnny

>Previous Threads:
>>63977744
>>63962506
>>63947419
>>63925545
>>
Whats a good colour scheme for slaanesh-themed herdstone? Should i make it standart but with purple flames and runes or go full ridiculous and make it gold?
>>
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Looking for unique color schemes for this line of terrain. I'm trying to avoid the box art of green, dark blue, and white/grey. Also anyone know if I can magnetize the modular sections? I kind of hate the idea of building it one way and realizing I don't like it.

>>63989104
Go full obnoxious and do a ridiculous herdstone with a gold vein in it.
>>
Army Painter, Citadel, or Vallejo?
>>
>>63989076
>Going away for the weekend with friends for extended house party
>"This is really going to derail my 45 minutes wip per day."
>"I've only got 15 days to complete these models."
>"I wanted to have this finished by the end of the week."
Why.
>>
>>63989140
AP for primers and Vallejo for paint. GW or AP for washes.
>>
>>63989140
AP for shades, citadel for washes, vallejo for paints.
>>
>>63989140
AP for washes and some metallics, citadel if I need a specific color the others don't make, vallejo for everything else
>>
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It's going to be about 8c/46f out this weekend and it looks like that's the warmest it's going to get until about April. Buddy offered to let me use his garage for priming so it should be at least a little better in there. Any tips on priming when it's cold? Is the "put the can in a tub of hot water" thing I've seen lately a meme or does it actually work?
>>
>>63989220
I mostly use brush on primer now since the area I am in is always either freezing and wet, or hot humid and wet.
>>
>>63989076
What mini is this? Looks like pretty good both for a statue and as a necromancer general for spooky armies
>>
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>>63989118
Classic grey-brown with gunmetal portions is always available.
You can magnetize the modular sections with a bit of drilling.
>>
>>63989307
Persephone from Mythic Battles: Pantheon
attached to a french press I think to make scenery?
>>
>>63989359
All the store terrain is painted like that so I'm going to have to pass on both the unique part and not wanting my terrain to get lost in the LGS stuff. Nice to know about the magnets part working though.
>>
>>63989220
I've primed at +3C without any issues, you'll be fine. I did warm the can and shook the everliving fuck out of it tho.
>>
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So I was told we have some really good new critics in wip. do you see anything wrong with this guy?
>>
>>63989696
The wings could use some highlights and the right knee armor plate looks surprisingly plain for such an otherwise cool model. Maybe paint the spikes metal?
>>
>>63989696
It's icky.
>>
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>>63989732
thanks. Highlights exactly where? And yes, you're right, the knee armor plate is super plain. I'll change that.
>>
>>63989795
I really feel like a child fucking around with paint when I these kind of piece of art
>>
>>63989696
The wings re my only complaint. They feel like sheets of black stone, not flesh or insect iridescence. I'd consider adding a very faint purple ink wash around all the red veins, blending it with blue, to give a bit more of a 3D efect.
The skin is fantastic, though you could do some faint purple mottling near the dorsal spines/hair.
The rust effects are excellent.
>>
>>63989795
On the outermost edges and around the holes.
>>
>>63989220
Putting it in hot water should increase can pressure and supposedly improve atomization. It seems to work pretty decently but I think it might cause problems if the weather is too hot, since the paint will dry in the air faster, leaving you with a gritty surface. Should be alright to do in your current situation.
>>
So can we start running /wip/ and /abg/ (air brush general) as separate threads?
>>
Anyone have (d)eldar color schemes to dump? Need inspo
>>
>>63989996
I'll try the wash.
>>63990037
I'll look into that!
>>
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>>63990085
>>
>>63990085
Was thinking a mint color for the Kabalites but idk
>>
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>>63990116
>>
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>>63990121
>>
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>>63990130
>>
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>>63990149
>>
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>>63990149
>3 layers of edge highlights
Is this normal?
>>
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>>63990172
What did you expect? The Dark Eldar are the edgiest race.
>>
>>63989159
How about take some of your models with you and if you happen to wake up earlier than everyone else just paint them.
>>
>>63989159
>Going away for the weekend with friends for extended house party
>How about take some of your models with you
>EXTENDED HOUSE PARTY
>TAKE SOME MODELS WITH YOU

Heed the wisdom of your threefathers.
>>
>>63990116
Dat smurfette
>>
>>63990184
>>
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>>63990184
>>
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>>63990184
A+!
pic unrelated
>>
>>63989140
Scale75
>>
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So I'm making some harlequins and I've already decided on the main colors. But I'm kinda stuck on how to do their bases so they don't look out of place. Any ideas?
>>
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Working on my landraider. Still need to finish the gold, but i am unsure what to do with the skulls, banners, and laurels. I dont like the idea that the banners are cloth. Im not sure either about the skulls since they wouldnt be ACTUAL skulls imo. I might paint them gold, but then i run the risk of it being too much gold on the model. Its the same problem with the laurels and banners.

However, i am looking forward to painting all the little lenses!
>>63989118
im building the KT starter terrain. I want it all to be flat in a box so i will magnetize for sure. By design the scenery is modular. Just browse through the instructions. Sorry, no advice for colors but you can always search for scifi cities?

>>63989140
Vallejo for me, but in the end you can always mix brands.

>>63989696
The wings dont do it for me. Not enough transition, wash it a couple of times. The red vains also need more highlights. The wings arnt really befitting a nurgle scheme. You might even want to shave the blue feather stuff off or make it more bone colored? The bronze/gold looks ok at first glance but when i look at it closely its just gold>sepia wash. Should really highlight it.

>>63990383
pic very unrelated..
>>
>>63989220
Works absolutely fine. It's been -5c here, and I've primed successfully by keeping the can warm, and only ducking out to spray.
Use short bursts from closer than you otherwise would, and take the model back inside to dry, ideally on a well-ventilated radiator or warm surface.
Go in and out quick and it'll come out smooth, 100%.
>>
>>63990427
Maybe some kind of easter nest arrangement with hay and baby chicks?

Seriously though with color like that you should probably only use dark greys on your bases. So urban rubble, ash wastes or something along those lines.
>>
>>63990427
>>63990741
Do you mean the eldar ruins they are modelled on?
Or the color/style of the bases in general?
>>
>>63990750
Both. I also consider clipping the ruins off their legs and using some other objects instead because ruins put limits on what can be done with base style.
>>
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>>63990741
>>63990427
Here's what you do: transitory shoreline. Sandy beaches and jungle plants. The occasional palm tree.
>>
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>>63989118
>>63989382
Red bricks and cast iron.
>>
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>>63990085
>>
>>63989159
I was the same over the holidays.
>I wish my family would go home so I can paint guilt free
>>
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Working on objective markers and wound tokens while I decide what color scheme to paint my mortarion. Figuring I either go for the old great crusade off-white or the new deathguard green look.
>>
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>>63991043 wound tokens
>>
>>63989696
Photographed on black for some reason
>>
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I mentioned a few threads back that I was building a Knight for a friend in exchange for an old Furioso. Anyway, I thought I'd share some stuff on the build.
I've magnetized the forehead to allow for the swapping of faceplates. There's a ridge on the inside of the faceplate that helps line things up but you need to clip the bottom of it off and possibly drill a little to make room for a magnet. Not too bad. I think maybe a square type magnet might be good here, to help keep rotation down -especially for the Mechanicus faceplates.
In the pic, you can see where I drilled a hole for the magnet at the base of the shallow slot. I used a little tube putty fill out/smooth the area.
>>
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>>63991166
I wanted to articulate the waist but didn't want weird shifting and to minimize certain kinds of wear, so I cut off the nub on the lower section and placed in a magnet, letting it stick out just enough for the torso side (the original plastic nub was a tad high.) For the top, I took a bit of tin from a can and dished it out using a ball peen hammer and a tree stump in my backyard that had a divot in it. The divot was a bit shallow but I managed to get the job done. It should provide the necessary dome shape in the upper torso for good contact with the magnet once trimmed and glued in.
>>
>>63990786
That's a great idea actually. I'm gonna try to do something like this
>>
>>63991253
man. I'm looking forward to seeing that.
>>
>>63989140
People are pretty universal on GW for washes but I think GW also makes good orange and yellow paints too.

As far as I'm concerned the only thing I won't use is Testors. Never again, anyway.
>>
>>63991253
Instructions for that? That base is great.
>>
>>63991491
Dunno, found it on the net. I'll post the instruction if I manage to reproduce it.
>>
Sup /wip/. I got a bunch of melusai and wanted to make my first forray into the hobby. Ive been thinking over the colour shceme for a while now and decided to go with pic related but with different hair colours/cloth. Or maybe one more ancient greekish since they are medusae-like. Anyone have any tips on how to get that armor shine or the scale shade? Also another question, I remember seeing here an anon make an ancient temple base himself, anyone tried anything similiar?
>>
>>63991307
GW are also really beginner-friendly because they tell you which paints are strongly pigmented (i.e. good for going under a more vibrant colour) on the bottles, instead of requiring trial and error
>>
Finally making start on these guys, got a citadel base paibt set for xmas, i am loving bugmans glow.
>>
>>63991572
All I have to say is that they look like the main colour scheme for idoneth deepkin which is a bit odd.
>>
>>63989076
How'd you achieve such an excellent aged copper look? Been trying to for something of my own but I'm rather worried the copper I picked out is too bright (using Vallejo's hammered copper)
>>
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Painted a batch of Victoria Miniatures' Rausenburg troops last night, and used Basius pads for the first time. Any thoughts on these?
>>
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I should've been using 28 guage wire all along
>>
>>63992109
They seem ok. Not the best shot angle tho, lots of stuff is not seen.
>>
>>63992109
What are Basius pads?
>>
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>>63981519

RT Eldar are dirt cheap, compared to most other factions from that era. I've been meaning to grab a few myself, but so far only have a couple of squads of guardians, the 'mini' Avatar and the cheese-wedge resin Falcon grav tank from Epicast (technically a 2nd ed model). No characters or aspect warriors yet.
>>
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>>63990584
>I dont like the idea that the banners are cloth.

Are you talking about the purity seals? They're either heavy paper or thin-but-tough fabric (like the kind "paper" currency is made from). Paint them off-white and scribble tiny illegible notes on them with a 005 micron pen.

>Im not sure either about the skulls since they wouldnt be ACTUAL skulls imo. I might paint them gold, but then i run the risk of it being too much gold on the model.

I would paint them as if they are made of stone, like the raised shoulder badges on terminator squads: grey with really light grey (Dawnstone or Terminatus Stone) highlights.

>Its the same problem with the laurels and banners.

I would paint the laurels the same stone as the skull, or else make them green with yellow-green highlights.

>>63988649
>Viktoria lamb is the godess of figure painting

That's ... not how you spell "Natalya Melnick", anon.
>>
>>63992249
You made a mistake in "Kirill Kanaev" there lad
>>
>>63992249
Not the anon you are replying to. I had to look them up and compare. Natalya is probably slightly better technique-wise, but I'd still say that Victoria Lamb is slightly better because she has a better grasp of colour theory and doesn't insist on painting almost everything shades of orange and blue...
>>
>>63992249
>>63992323
By the way, what's the deal with russians and miniature painting? How come they are so good?
>>
>>63992323
Damn, that's some crazy bust.

>>63992347
Have you ever been to Russia? Staying inside and painting is preferable to leaving the house there. ;D
>>
>>63992157
I took several of one to show it better, since getting them all in one shot is proving to be difficult.

>>63992246
Basius pads are large resin pads with an inverted texture on each side. To make a base for a miniature, just throw a blob of green stuff on the base, wet it, and press it at some random place on the inverted texture to form it. Takes about 1-2 minutes to make a base like this, and it's, at least for me, way better than anything else I could do in that amount of time.
>>
When putting it into an airbrush, how much water to paint should I do for most Vallejo paints. These are just their normal pigments, not any air specific colors.
>>
>>63989140
Vallejo, but always mix and match.
>>
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Managed to bring a nearly dry, 12 year old pot of old Citadel Foundation back to working, perfect order through the miracle of tipping in some acrylic medium and shaking to hell
FeelsGreatMan
>>
>>63992424
use a specific airbrush thinner for airbrushing. Using water will be an extremely disappointing experience
>>
>>63992626
Congrats, anon! Way to go!
>>
>>63992155
Those look brilliant anon.

>>63989696
Take a knife and run around your base rim to get rid of the overhanging texture paint, then paint it solid black or solid brown
>>
>>63991809
Inking done, rest till tomorrow
>>
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>>63992626
just started painting again after a while, all my citadel ones are similar, just totally separated but with a good shaking and some thinner/medium if that has dried out a bit and they are back to normal
>>
This is tabletop
>>
Looking for a tutorial on how to add organic parts to vehicles (converting a SM dread into a chaos one and wanna add sinews between armor panels to make it look more like a daemon engine). The simpler the technique the better. Thanks in advance!
>>
>>63992862

Middle one is table top but it also depends of the model. Primaris marines have so little details (compared to plague marines for example) that not doing some highlights or insignas makes them seem unfinished.
>>
>>63992109
>Victoria Miniatures' Rausenburg
Just googled it, and those minis are not supplied with the lasguns in your pic. The lasguns in your pic are cool though, where are they from?
>>
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WIP of my ~Blood Angels.

I really don't like how vallejo warlord purple turned out. I'm hesitant between washing it and changing the color entirely. Would dark green work better for the seals (i'll probably go metalic for drops)?

Do you guys wash entire armor and then build up the color again or use detail brush to put it only into the recesses?

Also, I'm such a slow painter that having a batch of 5+1 minis feels like a burden but then I see you guys painting 20+ minis at once and feel like I should shut up and git gud.
>>
>>63993013
that purple will make a fine spot colour, I suggest you paint the helmet lenses the same colour as well. Once you apply a dark wash I should think it will look better.

Use a detail brush to put wash only into the recesses and then go back in with the basecoat colour to tidy up any spills. Don't wash the whole armour unless you want to spend hours relayering over with your basecoat.

Don't worry about speed. Any more and you'll feel rushed rather than taking time to make things look good. Your minis are looking extremely clean and nice so far. Looking forward to more pics.
>>
>>63993013
I usually wash whole then rebuild colour. personally id use same red on seals as armour then wash and highlight, the gems id start very dark blue or green and work up from there the purple doesn't seem to sit right, and go at pace that suits you, once you get into swing you'll naturally speed up. Tidy work anon good job
>>
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Dire Avengers wip.
Don't mind the base, it's not at all finished.
only the armour is done
>>
>https://jobs.games-workshop.com/search-and-apply/painting-presenter-warhammer-tv-12-month-fixed-term-contract-nottingham-uk
This is your chance /wip/
>>
>>63993401
Im not favorable to GW.
>>
>>63993401
>having to paint on camera with the aborted fetus that is GW brand brushes
Nah
>>
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I finished my robot, what craft world should I do my elder? I like Ulthwe
>>
>>63993476
nice fucking robot anon, that looks spectacular.
If you like ulthwe, go ulthwe
>>
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>accidentally bought ink instead of paint
So... what do I do with it?
>>
>>63993676
use it carefully, that ink is incredibly concentrated color.
>>
>>63993676
seems useful for mixing with paint
>>
>>63990813
>paints dark elder in a craftworld scheme
the absolute madman
>>
>>63993711
This; it adds saturation. You can also paint it over white like a normal paint for sort of an easy auto highlight.
>>
A model shop opened in town near me that sells Tamaya paints. I've been pretty frustrated with the GW stuff lately, are Tamaya any good for Minis?
>>
>>63994013
yes they are good, keep in mind that they use a propanol base so while you can thin them with water, they tend to dry a good deal quicker on your models.
>>
Would you guys suggest black or white primer for "normal" colours like flesh, bronze armor and red/bluw/white-ish clothes
>>
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>>63993140

This is the wonder stuff, the matte-est matte you've ever seen, not the slightest hint of a shine. I give models a good coat of a hardwearing gloss varnish (actually floor polish, but any number of things will do), then use this stuff to flatten them out. You can then go back over any bits you want to be glossier with something appropriate. If you really wanted you could go for as many as three different finishes on one model (totally flat on the base and things like cloth or purity scrolls, semigloss on armour, gloss on lenses and gems), it adds a lot of realism for a pretty minimal effort.
>>
>>63994047
Thanks for the heads up!
>>
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Complete beginner here, looking for advice. Which colours do you guys use for handles/hilts on thunder hammers, power maces and such?
>>
>>63994047
That's weird, when I tried out a tamiya paint once it felt like it took way longer to dry. They don't smell good either but it ended up having a very smooth finish.
>>
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>>63993703
>>63993711
>>63993893
Thanks anons, I'll give it some experimentation when it arrives.
>somewhat-related
Do you have a favorite color from the Scale75 range?
>>
>>63994055

There are lots of other shades of primer beside black and white. Grey is a pretty solid choice for most things. You can brush prime some parts in another colour (metallics tend to go better over black), or just undercoat them. Bear in mind that it's much easier to paint some parts of a white or grey model in black than it is to paint some parts of a black model in white.
>>
>>63994055
I prime in grey, if im using silver i base area in black or oak brown for gold n bronze. Grey makes it easy for face skin and colour layers to go on, but if you are looking for super bright pop colours try white
>>
>>63991996
It looks like a blue/green base with a lot of bronze drybrushing.

I couldn't guess on the paint.

>>63992155
What are you planning on doing for foliage?
I've got a bunch of Woodland Scenic trees that look great, but shed like a motherfucker.
>>
>>63994181
Light skin
>>
>>63994055
Grey is good for most things.
White is good for bright colors.
>>
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>>63989076
Hey /wip/ What's the most secure way of adhering cured Milliput decoration to a plastic surface?
>>
>>63994115
It all depends on the theme. Just don't with a dark colour, wash, do dark colour again but leave recesses / folds and highlight the oposite side with slightly broghter colour. Works with blues browns reds greens yellows.
>>
>>63994119
>>63994047
Careful, Tamiya has lacquer and acrylic paints.
I imagine the lacquer ones dry quite slowly, but the acrylic paints dry rather quickly.
>>
>>63994328
Do it, not dont *
>>
>>63994181
Viking Gold, very rich, deep gold color, and really shiny (and almost no visible flake).
>>
>>63994182
>>63994206
>>63994261


I see. Ill porpably get a grey one then since I want light colours but not to bright or "popping". Although I use spray because Im always worried about overdoing it with the brush on
>>
>>63994324
two part epoxy
>>
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Trying to find a goblin speed painting scheme for an army project and stumbled across this. It was an accident and I'm trying to recreate it but I like how 80's art the scheme is.

Robes will be brown or black depending on a test model.
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>>63994446
Huh, makes sense. Thanks
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>>63994475
>Oi itz not loik I loik ew er anyfing boss.
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>>63994324
Super glue is the correct answer. With a pin if it's heavy.
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>>63994342
It should be the opposite; lacquer paints are supposed to dry incredibly fast (so fast that you generally can't hand paint with them). I'd imagine painting with both types of Tamiya paints would be about the same (ie you need appropriate thinners to get good results).
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How does one get such itty bitty fine lines as the edge scratches on pic related? It doesn’t seem physically possible.
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>>63994631
It's perfectly possible, it's called painting them individually with a tiny brush
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>>63994631
I heard some anons use toothpicks
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>>63994631
Just a careful hand, but you can always dress it up with the bordering color if necessary
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>>63992626
Nice, I have a bunch of old ass paints I wish I could revive, but they are basically hard plastic now. No amount of shaking will fix. Need something strong AF to stir it first.
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>>63994780
Those old pots sucked so much ass. Even if you somehow revived your paint, it would be dry again in a week or so.
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I want my GSC to be more than just miners/random PDF. Are there any bodies (40k or 28mm) that look like civilians, scribes, police and such? I really want it to be clear that my dudes have infiltrated every level of society.
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>>63993353
like the shade of blue, are you going to use another contrasting colour other than yellow?
Also, there is a tiny bit of brown on the right shoe that could use some tidying up.
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>>63994868
All citadel paint pots suck. It’s like the current ones are designed to not seal properly.
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I got sand fucking everywhere. I elbow bumped my container. I dont if that is worse than spilling an inkpot or not.
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>>63994868
These were pretty good, still have a pot of elf flesh that hasn't dried up yet.
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I fucking hate airbrush

>constant clogging
>need to clean constantly
>thinner/cleaner gives me a headache
>sputtering
>too thin
>too thick
>clean clean clean
Brush is easier desu
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>>63994868
Better than this horseshit of poor design.
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>>63994945
I have to agree, I am way too fucking lazy to use my airbrush.
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>>63994950
No, those old pots were actually way worse.
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>>63994945
There’s a learning curve with airbrushes just like everything else. You just need to git gud. Also don’t fall the disassembling meme.
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>>63994904
thanks anon, it's VMC prussian blue. Its got a nice reddish sheen in real life, I like it.
I'll paint the various gems in a red colour as well to offset it later.
The base will be much better when I repaint it and snow it up.
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>>63993042
>>63993092
Reikland fleshade toned down that pink a bit, I think it looks more natural now.

Additionally washing the recesses with detail brush looks easier than I thought, thanks!

>>I suggest you paint the helmet lenses the same colour as well
Gonna try that at one model but hence after washing it doesn't pop out as much I suspect you'd suggest leave them pink-ish?

>>the gems id start very dark blue or green
Yeah. I didn't like the pink and I don't like the gold either.. I might go that way.
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Query, now the temperature and moisture is bad for spray painting, and I don't own nor will I ever own a air brush, what is a good paint for brush on primer? Will Gw base do or is a purpose paint on primer better, and what would a good example of one be?
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>>63995026
Ah, I thought you were painting the gems pink as well. Paint your lenses the gem colour instead
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>>63994950
t. never used the screw pots
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>>63995046
pick up vallejo's polyurethane primer
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>>63989696
Swanky conversion mate.
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>>63989076
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>>63989696
It looks a little flat in some areas, specially the wings. Otherwise it looks fucking disguisting. Nice job.
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T
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>>63995078
Thanks anon i just looked it up and looks great, smooth with a brush. just ordered me giant bottle of grey
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>>63995123
Being Peachy is suffering
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>>63995252
Wasn't it always?
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>>63992984
When you order those troops, you can choose from several different weapons. Those guns are just another one made by VM
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>>63994976
>disassembly meme

Please elaborate
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Done myself a poxwalker
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>>63995498
Disassemble and clean your brush thoroughly after each use
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>>63994079
>buying AK Interactive

NOPE
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>>63995578
You still gotta do it from time to time yaknow
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>>63995578
You are suggesting not disassembling or cleaning?
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>>63992862
You're a retard.
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>>63995578
I just back flush and wet dock between sessions; fite me
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>>63994115
>colours do you
Generally red, black wash, red again highlights.
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>>63995691
Please translate, I'm new to airbrushing.
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finished up Gimli. Please how they are coming along.

just gotta do the hobbits next.
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>>63993013
Yeah the magenta and red are clash quite a lot.

Green would look good. So would yellow or blue.
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>>63995572
CUTE
U
T
E
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>>63995755
possibly the cleanest paintjob I've seen on this group of models anon, well done
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>>63995755
Can't even ironically say strip them. Nice job.
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>>63995055
Well I still didn't decide about the gems, lurking google images for inspirations. Might try what other anon said. I'll remember to make lenses the same color.
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>>63995498
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A6ccZA1XXxE

Watch this video.
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>>63995596
>>63995622
No I say that you have do it every time (at least if longer than 24h or so between painting sessions).
It has the same merit as the thinnnn meme (although it is one, please follow it)
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>>63995710
Flush the brush with cleaner and put the tip in a water/cleaner mix until next use. Depending on the seal, it can be damaged if left wet for several days
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>>63995755
lovely!
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>>63995930
>>63995841
>>63995847

Thanks. I may not be the quickest of painters but this is the style of my painting.

Right now i enjoy painting smaller models than the bigs one. I think thiis is why i am so turned off from warhammer in general, the models are getting too big and overly detailed. Whilst i enjoy the charm of the more simpler models. Don't know if others feel the same.

Picture is the last large model i did. Painted for a friend for his Birthday. Whilst it was enjoyable to do. There is just so much detail and it's just such a busy model to look at.
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>>63995591
What problem do you have with AK Interactive?
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Making progress. Still thinking about how to base.
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>>63996102
*puts brush down and walks out of the room*
time to find a new hobby
this guy wins
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>>63996102
Looks very gw online store style, but higher quality.
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>>63994950
Nah, the screw pots were actively worse than the current ones.
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>>63996102
The only shining light to these big detailed models is the broad surfaces to paint on. You can be as crisp as humanly possible with moderate ease.
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>>63992862
>inner shoulder pad line highlights
I SERIOUSLY hope you guys don't do this.
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>>63996293
imagine not knowing about adjacent colour brightness
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>>63996102
>books describe ascended Mortarion's scythe as clean, new and without any mark of corruption
>the miniature
I hate this so much
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>>63994914
They look very nice though.
What game are they for?
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>>63994945
True.

I only use it to prime things and then for the first layer of basecoat so i only need two different paints.
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>>63996228
>Looks very gw online store style, but higher quality.
I mean no offense to the guy, his Mortarion is very nice, but the store model is clearly painted to a higher standard.
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>>63995755
The only bad thing about these minis is that you used the plastic fellowship minis which are totally inferior to the older metal ones. Lovely painted though.
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>>63996351
9th Age. Footy Knighty Lads. Theyre going to be the bodyguard for my living saint.
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>>63996330
Imagine not knowing that the purpose of line highlights is to make hard edges and gaps more distinct and theres no space between the pad and trim. It makes no sense and indicates a lack of highlighting creativity. It's trying to cram a square technique in a round hole.
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>>63995572
Thats not a poxwalker
Thats definitely a herald of nurgle. He has an air of superiority.
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>>63996431
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>>63996406
>>63996431
>>63996442
I'm seeing double! 6 skelebros!
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>>63996468
They'll fizzle out.
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>>63996468
Reminds me of the time half of /a/ was using the Rei tripcode until they banned it
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I'm new how do I base things?
Hopefully without having to buy texture paints
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>>63996644
You can just use sand, cork, and PVA glue.
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Working on these Deff Skulls Dreads, somequick questions:
1. Does the Dread on the left have enough blue?

2. My white feels/looks like it’s on the edge between too thinned and if I add one more layer it will be too thick. Opinions? (Black basecoat, administratum grey, then Ceramite white)

3. Tips on how to layer tape to make clean checkerboard lines? Or is painting by hand the only way?

4. With Blue and White as Deathskull colors, is there a third color I should add to complement both? I was thinking of using yellowand red for the eyes, any other colors for the bodies?
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>>63992388
>>63992109
I like them, maybe neaten them up a bit, depending on how many you need to paint. They're fine for tabletop standard. What are you gonna play them as?
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>>63996644
Sand is free and there's a lot of it free in the world
Get some and some glue and paint it however you like, bob's your uncle
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>>63995755
What paints did you use for Gandalf's hat? Looks really neat
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Ah lawd
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>>63996790
>Brother Diabetus, where hath thou been
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>>63996790
FAT
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>>63996644
Don't fall for the corkboard meme. No matter what you do it will always just look like corkboard.
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>>63996678
1. Yes it does have enough

2. Your whites should be painted Celestra Grey/Administratum Grey >Ulthuan Grey> edge highlight Ceramite, this way they arent impossible to cover up mistakes on AND white is relative to the colors that surround it, although Ulthuan Grey is an off white it looks perfectly white next to blue and black, while your Ceramite looks like its blinding white and draws the attention form the rest of the model https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9mA41pvjiXw&t=36s

3.if you have a steady hand its surprisingly easy to make checks by hand, plus they're orks, dont need to be perfect, just paint on your lines and color the squares in

4. Pick out some cables and other things you can do as Red/Yellow, also find some armour plates and make them bare metal silver/bronze/copper. This video, specifically the timestamp i linked, helped me figure out how much of a model should be divided up to what colors, replace Black with Blue in your case https://youtu.be/VRj8uc7S5Qs?t=180
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I need some help guys, I d like to get the colour combination of the tail to use on a different project, but i m not sure about the colours. Anyone have any ideas what colours to use to get this combination?
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Noob here. Why exactly do you guys hate resin/Finecast for? And whats this about it causing cancer? Just wanted to ask as I bought a Storm Guardian sprue for my KT.
Thanks.
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>>63993353
been working on the squad all evening, highlighting has taken about 1hr per model. Lol. For that anon who was complaining earlier about being slow, don't sweat it
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>>63997062
its only fw resin you need to worry about there.
try and pin your arms in if you can, resin glued to plastic loves to snap away
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>>63997062
the cancer is if you're sanding it and being a retard by breathing it in
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>>63997117
>>63997123
Ah, thanks. I'll keep that in mind when im working on them.
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My Kill Team, sans a big boy robit. Gonna have to learn from and assist my painter to be done for February.
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>>63996790
I like it. I'm a big fan of true scale marines as well!
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>>63997062
>Why exactly do you guys hate resin/Finecast for
It's fragile, is prone to having bubbles in it, is prone to warping, tends to have a lot of flash etc.

It's just generally a shitshow by comparison to either metal or plastic.
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>>63996698
They’re for my kill team, and also for when I need to distinguish units from each other for the guard or cults. I have 20 standard boys, and 11 heavy weapon bases, so I’m going for a fast tabletop standard
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I just bought some wash for my brushes but it didn't clean them? I actually think they have become more dirty after sticking them in
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>>63996992
Awesome advice, thanks dude!
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>>63997062
>>63997386
It can also melt if you leave it in the sun meaning if you live in a hot area like the Southern United States it can easily melt with how hot it gets here.
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I made a Custom Chaos Sorcerer!
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>>63997508
Also made a truescale fellow here
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>>63997508
taH pagh taHbe'
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>>63997463
>it can easily melt with how hot it gets here.

A friend of mine that had a Space Marine army back in Third Edition days had one of the Land Raider Crusaders with the metal assault cannon turret and metal hurricane sponsons. He left it in his car, and the assault cannon turret got so hot that it warped the plastic the roof of the Land Raider was made of.
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>>63992347
They are actually taught how to paint when they study art.
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>>63996704

just GW's Base colour The Fang, washed with Drawkenhof, then just layered up with Russ grey and Fenrisien

>>63996206
You made me lol. But still, my stuff stank when i first started out, pic is a few examples. As long as you are learning and enjoying it. Don't worry about comparing to others.

>>63996228
My friend asked me to paint it like the standard look.

>>63996365
None taken :)
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>>63996903
I would add grass tufts to this. The really short ones (moss pads) actually look really nice and on scale, but the traditional height tufts almost always kill it for me
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I have an imperial knight and i want to make it look battle damaged and i wonder

What would happen if i shot it with an air rifle?
Would it leave a crater?
Would it blow up?
Would the pellet bounce off?

Can someone help
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>>63997829
Thanks for the recipe
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>>63997020
I see a pale tone, light tan, medium brown, dark brown, black, bluegrey, and pale blue for extreme highlights, with many glazes of in-between shades to blend. If you were going GW, you could pick up Pallid Wych Flesh, Ushabti Bone, Karak Stone/Baneblade Brown, Rhinox Hide, Abaddon Black, Russ Grey, Fenrisian Grey. Or just get a white, a black, a tan, and a brown from any range and make your own blends for the transitions
>>
Rushed to get these guys done today for a small painting comp tomorrow. I don't expect to win now, but the store rarely does painting competitions, so I at least want to enter. All I managed to do before today was getting the skin to a point were I could start blending it together and the bases were primed. Naturally I did not do the skin blending properly and the rest of the models are just washes/inks and some sloppy dry brushing for the metallics. Painting for nearly 5 hours straight is not that great when you're just trying to get stuff done. 1 hour was spend on the bases, as I was trying out chipping fluid for the first time. They look better in person but I should have tried it out on something else first.
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>>63997073

I did these the other year and they took forever to do because i refused to dry brush and highlighted every piece of armour, scale mail and strand of hair on the beards!

Happy with the outcome. Just takes patience.
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>>63997987
good luck! They're pretty nice for quick work - a little dark, but that may be the photography too
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>>63997981
thank
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does anyone have the other Alpha Legion tutorial that uses Tamiya spray paint and is formatted vertically?
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>>63998029
Amazing how good a simple scheme can look when finished with care.
<3 it.
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>>63998127
Got you covered.
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>>63998061
Thanks.
I didn't do any proper shading or highlighting, just ink over a warm zenithal for most of it, so that is most likely why they look a tad dark.
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Probably the best place to ask.
How the hell do I safely transport my raiders?
Obligatory WIP picture, my kitbashed Archon
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>>63998029
absolutely beautiful. I could never do that because I want to get my armies on the table and I don't play while looking at the minis from 6 inch distance. nevertheless stunning work!
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Thoughts?
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>>63998609
You always run the risk of something breaking off with models like that, even with foam that is cut to accomodate the model. Custom cut foam can also get expensive.
Gluing magnets under their bases and building yourself a carrying case with metal sheets is probably the nest option, unless you are expecting the box to take a lot of abuse. Just buy any box you can comfortably carry, and glue a metal sheet to the bottom of it. I used some lego as spacers to add a second layer, should have used something more stable than cardboard though.
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>>63998198
thanks G
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>>63998857
I think you need a little bit more contrast between the green and the trim, they're both very dark and it kind of blends in
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>>63998943
The metalic trim is more orange and does contrast more on my desk. I really need to stop being lazy and get a light box
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>>63998609
I went back and forth and all ways and ended up with battlefoam trays. I got them on a sale, and they werent cheap but they do the job nicely
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>>63999042
Nice vaporwave sail
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posted this guy yesterday but i'm going to start on the swords next and I wouldn't mind some oppinions; think they'd look nicer black with a bright edge or just a bright red/orange?
>>
How would you best go about painting a color transition on a big model? I'm thinking of doing various shades of blue to mimic the sky later in the day for my knight and don't have an airbrush. Pretty sure I'm supposed to either buy an airbrush or thin the paints a ton and do a lot of layering
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>>63989359
How would the pegasus ruins look on the same table as the Sector Imperialis ruins?
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I'm so glad I stripper and started again.

Think this will turn out ok
>>
>Tfw secret santa package was finally delivered after like 3 weeks of trying.

Now to wait for my anon to post it.
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>>63999099
Black could be cool but it might be hard to make it stand out next to all that white. an orange to play off the spirit glyph thing and gel with the blue head would look great
>>
>>63999042
>>63998875
Thanks for the recommendations. Here is a WIP (85% done) of said raider.
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>>63999160
nice, I like the hanging guy
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>>63997889
I, even in my wildest dreams I have thought on that. Try it anon, paint and experiments one sprus. Report back please.
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>>63999144
all that FUCKING AIRBRUSHING! seriously though it looks really good
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>>63995123
lord duncan sempai... i , i dun-cant... forgive me...
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>>63999099
Nice model anon, I personally would paint them a bright blue or orange but it's your call. If you go with the black a gloss varnish on the blades would look cool imo
Pic related is how I did mine, if you use this technique with your colours
>>
>>63999135
The latter. For big models thinning your paint too much will just create extra work. Keep it normally thick, just start with 1 colour and mix a tiny amount of your second tone in at a time, then start painting covering less area each time.
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>>63999255
Mymeara is such a nice scheme
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>>63999144
Great chipping effects, care to give a >quick rundown ?
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>>63998875
Can you post pictures of the daemonettes? I kind of wanted to see what flesh looking daemonettes would look like as I get to my seeker chariots and all of the wrath&rapture models.
>>
>>63999307
Yeah, it's a shame my glazing of the green bits shows up like complete wank in close up pics, it always looks splotchy compared to being quite good in the actual 'flesh'. Oh well.
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WIP.
THIRTEENTH!
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>>63999395
Only have this pic without painted bases, had to rush them even more than I did on the halflings higher up in the thread. As they are they work for the table top, since the picture makes them look even worse. Pretty sure they would be okay if you actually put some more effort into doing them.
>>
>>63999395
>>63999560
The skin is better done on this one, but after my work on her, she's barely a daemonette. I just to repost this one to make me feel better.
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>>63999498
Cool model, where is it from?
>>
giving these tank crewmen legs, pray for me wip
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>>63998609
Put some magnets in the base, put an iron plate at the bottom of a toolbox.
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>>63999717
oh man back when i was starting 40k in '06 I did this with necron legs.
14 year old me was convinced they would pass as "imperial bionics"
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>>63999776
a good lump of green stuff will sort it out
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>>63996339
it is? damn, good to know. well that's GW for you. one hand doesn't know what the other one is doing.
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>>63996161
The white on the chest banner and sponsoons(?) is much too thick, at least it looks so on the photo. Seriously, neaten up that chest banner.
>>
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>>63997073
I've just done a wash of drakenhof nightshade on the bodies. Ffffuck highlighting all that.
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>>63996339
This is clearly his party scythe.
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>>63999716
warlord games. early imperial roman aqualifer
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>>64000308
Hey, those are looking pretty hot anon. Nice neat result!
Your yellow is looking really good there. Is that averland sunset?
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>>64000390
Thanks, that's vallejo golden yellow over corax white primer. The crests are also washed with cassadora yellow.
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>>64000308
They're a strong tabletop as-is! It's amazing how well the eldar plastics have held up over time
>>
>>63994945
I hate kenny bouche but what he does works for me. I moved my cleaner into a spray bottle, sprayed it into the cup and poured it out, twice, then backflush with cleaner and spray it out till the cup is empty. Works pretty much every time as long as there aren't huge clumps of paint stuck in my nozzle.
>>
>>63997889
You are just going to break pieces off and it'll look like shit imo
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>>63997889
Having shot a model plane before with a .22 pellet, it only chips some moderately-sized holes in the plastic that don't look particularly great. With the thicker material of a Knight.. I dunno, but if you want to do this for "authentic battle damage" it certainly isn't the way to do it.
>>
>>63997889
why not do what the gunpla guys do and use a mini dremel? You can make almost any kind of battle damage and you will have a sweet new toy to pin with too
>>
What’s the best mold material for getting high quality details while casting in pewter?
>>
>>63994945
Sounds like a shitty brush.
>>
>>64001020
Ive been using oomoo 30 and it is pretty decent, just don't forget to use cornstarch to prevent pitting! mold max 60 is supposedly much more tear resistant but I haven't tried that yet. Can you post a picture of what detail you are losing?
>>
>>63999206
Thanks amigo.
>>63999367
Its chipping medium. Once you figure out how to apply its really easy but you need an airbrush. Basically you do the below
>paint an undercoat of browns and reds (rusty colours)
>Matt varnish
>Apply chipping medium very thin. It should be essentially invisible
>Apply very thin basecoat with your chosen colour with airbrush and allow to dry
>Once dry you can reactivate the chipping medium with a damp brush. The medium once activated will allow you to scratch off the top layer, personally I prefer toothpick or wooden tool
>>
>>64001516
I’ve actually got no lost detail to post as I haven’t made anything yet haha. I’ve got a backyard forge and have used sand for casting large objects like knives and Halloween decorations.

However my cousin gave me a little 40k set and I want to try to cast that using some scrap pewter that I have.

Pic related. The detail is extremely fine as 40k tends to be so I wanted to make sure I got the best mold material for the job so that I lose as little detail as possible. Thanks for the recommendations!
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What is the time limit considered for speed painting for example I have a measurement of 20 men and I get it to table top quality in 7 hours is that speed painting?
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>>64001992
the is no international association of speedpainting that polices the use of the term.

It's just a term people use to describe streamlined workflows, easy techniques or anything really that enables you to finish faster then if you'd go through your usual process.
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>>64001771
Let us know how it goes! There's a few of us who are pewter casting parts so I'm sure people will be eager to see the results
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>>64001992
These is going to sound dumb, but it's all relative to how quickly or slowly you finish a model and how much detail you are willing to do. You were doing 1 mini every 21 minutes though.
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>>64002033
>>64002051
Thank you, i did lots of routine planning before starting i think it helped, 1 every 21 mins isnt bad i may have army finished in few weeks
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>>63999560
Tameranians?
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>>64001992
I personally qualify "speed painting" as 5 hours per model or less.
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>>64002047
Thanks! Also would you have any tips for making the two part molds? Not sure if I should cut the pieces up and make a bunch of smaller molds or just try to make one big mold as it is.
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My first atempt to wetblend/layering transition wip?
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>>64002261
Looks pretty solid to me. Did you use a drying retardant?
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>>64002261
Did you break the tail?
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>>64002289
I'm a little retarded but no anon, this is just ol'wetpallet and citadel paints.

>>64002293
No, this is just a nightmare to handle and the tail gets on the way. I'll be putting some magnets later I guess.
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>>64002247
So the way I make two part molds is i put down a layer of non sulfur clay and try to embed the part up to the mold line. Then you make keys for the sides to meet up- https://youtu.be/h6kh2RJl1dQ is a good video on two part molding for pewter. It might be easier cutting chunks of the sprue with the part on it out and using it for the mold as it saves time cutting in vents later.
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Striped Pants Anon here... just built this guy. Most expensive infantry model in my army. Power Klaw, Waaagh Banner, and the Dead Shiny Shoota.

Also bulked up the base to make him a bit taller because he would find the highest rock to shout from. He seems like a grandstanding git like that.
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>>64002604
Sorry for the sideways picture. Fucking phone.
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>>64002533
Thanks anon appreciate it
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>>64002650
looks sweet, bosspole combined with Waaagh Banner seems a bit overkill but they're Orks so it can slide
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>>64002705
All my Nobz have bosspoles to add a wee bit more 40k to the model.
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>>64002726
fair enough, love his belt btw
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>>64002650
Is it me? but from this angle he looks a little slow (down syndrome ork) but dead chuffed with himself as hes found the new pole and is showing it to the world
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>>64002743
Boss poles everywhere.
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>>64002833
Those look great, anon
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>>64002863
Orks are going to be my hobby baby. I just finished a Mechanicus army and am SO GODDAMN SICK of identical models. So it’s going to be striped pants and conversions everywhere.
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>>64002762
He mostly just likes to yell. He’s got a relic shoota, ferfucksake. He’s probably what passes for special among the Orks. I’m not building a competitive list.
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>>64002882
I wish i had kept my rogue trader plastic orks n battle wagon i loved that style with the german pointy helmets and battle wagon with rivets and plates everywhere
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>>64002935
I’m building my shoota squad with greatcoat bodies. But beyond that I don’t have a unifying theme for the army beyond blue because they’re Deathskullz.

Themes for each unit though.
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>>64002833
Oh I remember you anon. Your blue still makes my autism pulse with frustration.
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>>64003063
May I ask why?
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Alright, I'm fairly happy with the base color now but I think there needs to be another element of separation. Any ideas? I was thinking maybe a red/orange dry brush in some areas but that would sort of kill the magic-y twilight grass vibe I want.
Also, what color should I paint the base lip? That might help too.
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>>64003130
Possibly do your red/orange under the shrooms? To look like they’re shedding spores or something?
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>>64003088
It's so flat compared to your other colors, it doesn't look finished. Sans the stripes on the pants, they fit well with it. It just looks like you slapped on a base color and washed it with a dark tone and called it done.
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>>64003434
That is literally the case on the left two models. I haven’t done any highlights on the blue yet. I based, washed, and did another coat of the base color but haven’t hit it with anything brighter. And the center guy still has 1 more highlight to go.

So that is a perfectly fair assessment of my blue.
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Taking a break from Horus and putting some time in on the base. Seeing as Horus is going to be white and gold I figured making his base black marble and this grey/blue stone would be a neat look.

Just starting on the eagle which I am trying to make it stand out as much as possible with just washes and dry brushing, not sure just how far I should be pushing these highlights though.
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>>64003634
Looks done already. Might look muted at a distance, but obscene highlights don't seem your thing.
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>>63999255
Doesn't mymera have white backpacks/spikes thing?
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Not sure if I consider it "done" something about that eagle just rubs me off the wrong way. Think I should probably spread the highlights more to the sides, possibly high it lightly with a cream colour just at the tips.
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>>64003750
I think a cream/white done very subtly on select spots would tie it in with the armor nicely. as it is you've done a good job differentiating the base and the mini tonally
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>>64003750
Is this a pre-heresy Horus?
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>>64003805
Yeah, Luna Wolves armour.
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>>64003130
>but I think there needs to be another element of separation. Any ideas? I was thinking maybe a red/orange dry brush in some areas but that would sort of kill the magic-y twilight grass vibe I want.
I'd say do a few black glazes on the top of the rock, especially around the gobbo's feet. I think the rock it too bright in general, but if you are selective with the darkening of it, you could make it look like the cave floor/grass is giving off faint light. You can enforce that a little more by glazing a bit of blue on the underside of the rock then and finish it off by painting the lip of the base black to go for maximum contrast.

I'm not a fan of this particular sculpt, but your paintjob looks really great. Nice job, anon!
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My wip
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>>64004013 front
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>>64003634
you could add a few faint geen/black streaks in places where water may run if you want it to look like it has been lying around damaged for a while.
If you are going for a fresher look maybe adding some dust in places could work. The contrast looks good though, don't think you really have to push it much further unless you want to pick out the tip of the beak and eyes for definition.
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>>64004013
>>64004030
looking ultra rough so far. keep layering those colors and cleaning up the splooges of gold and pink
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>>64004038
I like that idea, I'll try it out.
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It feels good to be learning. Finally done with the base layer on this guy
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>>64004064
copy.
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>>64003175
I think I'm going to go to the hobby store and look for something I can use as magenta and white flowers. Maybe there will be something.
>>64003973
Yeah I need to shade under the gobbo more. There's a slight blue to the rock because I glazed it with The Fang but it's relatively lost under the bright light of my painting lamp. I might do another slight coat of that as well.

Finally got this guy sealed up and some basing supplies down on him. The lightning doesn't look terribly amazing but it's something. I'm going to put a night lords transfer on his shoulder, but I've never done transfers before so I'm going to wait until my Raptors are painted up and practice on those before trying to put one on the Lord.
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>>64004134
Man that bat boi came out amazing, love the effect on his wing membrane
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>>64004134
>I'm going to put a night lords transfer on his shoulder, but I've never done transfers before
I never could get those right. Led me down the path of freehanding chapter symbols on an entire army, which was good practice and finallly to sculpting and casting my own pads. Anyway GW still sells the nightlords conversion pack, so you can also put one of those on him or any other models you build.
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Man I wish I utilized glazing earlier...this shit is magic.
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>>64004322
I'm too scared of making a spill and not being able to remake it again.
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>>64004322
any one know a good video on understanding glazing?
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>>64004421
>thin paint
>apply thin layer onto model
It's that simple really.
If you want a good demonstration check the youtube video by painting buddha were they paint an ultramarine
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>>64004421
https://youtu.be/e2G9CEdURNQ

https://youtu.be/nVEHpedTct4

https://youtu.be/N88NtHNmz1Q
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What glue do I use for doing bases? I wanna dip my shit in sand.
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>>64004752

Watered down PVA glue applied with an old shitty brush.
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>>64004752
pva/wood glue. you can do a second layer with thinned down glue once the first one is dry to protect the bases.
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NEW THREAD
>>64004807
NEW THREAD
>>64004807
NEW THREAD
>>64004807
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>>63990813

Those look fucking ace.



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