Hello! I make pepakura for money. Models are usually constructed only once. My pieces are not so much like what we can find online; they tend to be VERY large and intricate, akin to a vg model. This is context for what my advice applies to. If you do it as an easy hobby or stick with truly low poly/tiny part models, a lot won't apply. No pic related just inspo, this is advice dump not my art thread. If you have any questions, why X, tell me more about Z, I am happy to oblige. I rarely use 4chan and wrote this on a whim, sorry if no reply. If you are interested in reaching for the stars with pepakura, here are my personal trade secrets.MATERIALS/TOOLS---Do not score the fold lines by hand. If you have a silhouette cameo, go ahead. To fold by hand purchase a glass scraper. I have two, one with a small 1.5 inch blade and another that is 4 inches. Dull the blade. I align the fold line across my fingers, press down with the blade.---Stop using an xacto knife. Get a snap blade utility knife. I HIGHLY recommend OLFA, XA-1 design. ---Titebond II Premium wood glue. It doesn't cure instantly but that's good, you don't want that. You want to be able to move the tab around into the perfect position before it starts curing. You have a 10 second window to make sure it's in position before it starts curing, then another 10 seconds till you can let go & any tension in the structure won't pull the tab out of place.---Tiny squeezable craft bottles for glue. One of the bottles I added thicker medical syringe tube. It is long, which is good for when I have to apply glue to a tab which is difficult to access The other bottle has a 1 inch long coffee straw, I use that for when I need a lot of glue then spread it around. When a tab is huge I just open a jar of glue and use a brush to paint it on. ---Dental tools.---Little neodymium magnets. I rarely use them, usually to hold a tab in place after the glue has already cured to the point that I can let go. See below
STRATEGY 2Think about where a piece is in relation to other pieces. You wouldn't begin to put together a section which, once constructed, would be a physical barrier stopping you from completing another section. You wouldn't start building a snakes head and tail at once; when both halves are completed you cannot reach inside the two halves to position and hold the tabs down as the glue cures. Each model is like a puzzle & the snake is easy to solve. Start at the head and end at the tail. You can't reach inside to hold the final tabs, but the paper won't be resisting you with tension at that stage. Even the most complex pieces can be very easy to construct if you properly solve the puzzle of where to start, what pieces come next, and where to end. In my early days of making other people's models I'd sometimes see difficulty ratings. It seemed like an unnecessary deterrent. I don't want to say every piece is easy to make, but every piece can be made easy and faster. Typical advice, work smart not hard. If I have a giant half completed model on the floor I'm not going to cut, fold, and attach one piece at a time unless that's the best move. That's slower. I'll often glue a few pieces together before attaching them to the model. !!!What you can and can't do is completely determined by your ability to do the following: Move the tab into position, secure it, shift it into its perfect spot, and use your fingers to press the entire length of the tab to its edge while the glue cures, WITH ONLY TWO HANDS!!! It's not an issue for most pieces out there, but if you want to get into hardcore models it will be a huge deal. With smaller pieces , maybe something curvy like an ear, you really need to think about its natural tendency. Human skin has a natural flow like a sand dune; surgeons will cut you open along the grain so it's easy to close back up. Work along the grain. I think I've explained the concept, the rest comes thru experience, judgement and foresight.
FINAL PRODUCTI never use colored paper or printed textures. If you want a really nice product, move away from that. Texture has its use in hobby pieces.The glue can overflow out of the seam and get on the paper. If you want to get rid of it then you'll have to cut that part off the model and start over. Look up fox pepakura. If I were to design a simple cute lil fox, that kind of coloring fits the model, but even so there is really no point in using colored paper. Just use painters tape to mask the area you want to paint, at that point you can now add subtle detail to your unique piece. Aesthetically, the best part of large, complex pepakura is its geometry. A single light source makes the whole thing pop. Shadow brings it to life, moving the source changes its appearance. When I finish a piece I spray paint it white to remove imperfection. Most of my pieces sell in this state, that is just what most people want when I show them what it looks like with different light sources and light colors cast on it. I inform the buyer that I can paint it a different solid color, or I can give it a more intricate paint job with undershading/zenithal highlight and/or a more realistic design that doesn't take away from the geometry. For example, a seahorse would do well with a base color, alternate coloring of specific geometry (using painters tape to mark off sections), eyes, and free form spray painting (letting the paint spit out in little drops, spraying highlight on tail tip, undershading), finalize with matte/clear glaze. The geometry is retained and highlighted through this paint job. Don't overdo. My goal is not to make it appear realistic like VGs do to convince you it does't have geometry. I'm not going to print texture on it, not going to use a paintbrush. If I wanted to make a giant realistic seahorse I wouldn't be using paper as a medium. Its form is inherently geometric. Any color design should compliment that.
GOING BIGWorking with such large paper models requires support. 3D printing at this scale has so much imperfection, time and risk of failure, it would be very heavy and require a complex web of internal support. As an art form, sculpting/mold pouring also isn't under threat from this tech in my eyes. For my pieces, shoddy woodworking as a skeleton does the job and I pad the areas were wood contacts the paper with pool noodles, pillow filling wrapped in fabric, fire hazard stuff. 120 lb paper is flexible, surprisingly resilient, and the final product is so lightweight it's never going to warp if properly supported. I use wood glue so the paper will rip before the tabs will ever become unsecured.I've had to finish assembly after transport on site, that's something I avoid, logistic crap. I tend to base the size of my largest pieces around standard dimensions. Standard height of a ceiling, standard width and height of a door and double doors. LxWxH is not a determine factor, you can maneuver a piece diagonally and twist it around to make it fit through a frame. MODELINGidk. I have no formal training. I studied art from my favorite games, Bloodborne and Dark Souls, looked at art, texture-less models. At first I only made symmetrical models and added asymmetrical parts afterwards. Just get blender go on youtube and practice. I copied a bunch of low poly tutorials and then my first model was a huge leap into complexity. If you're making a cat and the proportions look weird just look at a reference and keep messing with it till it seems right. Once you have the proportions right you can make the polygons look more geometric-y. I am not a creative person. I do this in reverence of objective beauty and other's art, try to reverently replicate it in this form. Thanks for reading I hope this helped or inspired you
thank you for this excellent thread
Nice thread, cheers for the glass cutting tool tip.
I want to make Tim Avery from son of the Mask as a papercraft figure. Can you help /po/???
no, sorry buddy
Sorry can’t do it
ill try
>>612675I see
Please share this origami book, I need it for the construction theme
>>614547That would be great, thank you!
Anyone Could share this?
>>614617
J'ai besoin de ce livre, quelqu'un pourrait-il m'aider s'il vous plaît ?
>>614068>>614069nice
I'm making a paper gauntlet. My grandmother threw out the original design I want to make a paper suit
op we miss you no homo
>>612658Are you going to coat it with something that won't dissolve the paper to get it rigid?
>>612658op... I beg you... PleAse.... standardize it... oh godPLEASE... YOU COUKD AAVE SO muCH TIME IF YOU JUST HAD A CLEAN DESIGNPLEASE ANON I BEG YOUYou can at least pat yourself on the back for finishing something
>>612658I love that paper gauntlet
>>612658Don't standardize it just to make >>614362 suffer
If you have this book, please share it.
>>615070thank you so much! I won’t forget you friend.
Looking for a flamenco dancer or a king diagram please from le pli or Six Les bains
voici deux personnes qui ont plusieurs de ces livres et qui sont trop égoïstes, gardez ces livres, égoïstes
>>615583speak english you uncultured swine
>>617461Use proper English, you savage barbarian. Don't you know the first character of a sentence must be in capital and the sentence should be ended with a period ?
Hi, I'm looking for this papercraft:I know it sends me to Amazon, but it's no longer available, so I'm hoping someone might have a digital copy or know who has it, I hope you can help me, thanks.
>>616110it's /po, stop being an ungrateful little shit. This is the most inactive thread on 4chan, so deal with it. If the fags on Paperzone didn't reply to your crap request, nobody on here has it anyway, so deal with it. Either buy the original one if you find a japanese version still online, or pay a commission to a designer that can re-make it the way you want, exactly like that. You'll never gonna get this one anyway, it's too old and people don't share shit anymore
>>616113Thanks for commenting, that keeps the thread active.
>>616115>Active>/po/
>>616116Why not?
downvote
Been looking for it everywhere but the download link on the artist's website seems to be dead. http://fumidream.web.fc2.com/PAPER_C/40cm-onihime.html
i got the page on pepakura website but the file is missing.http://web.archive.org/web/20190725000134/https://tamasoft.co.jp/pepakura/gallery/gallerydetails.php?id=852
herehttps://mega.nz/file/udIjWTzT#rKQQjGE1LDoqwLDDW_2NbsFxtsq0zJnw94xAjOxJrqk
>>616007Thank you so much!
>>616003Nope, I haven't seen it.
Please post images that print well for use as origami paper! I routinely "chop up" a page to easily get 12 to 20+ squares out of a single print.Multi-pattern images are really cool... allowing for several squares each with individual patterns.Any good pattern that'll work for several squares with the same/similar patterns.Black & White can be really cool when printed onto color papers.
You get 16 unique squares outta this multi-pattern print!
And a Happy 420 2U
hehe, le funny mustache man
came for /pol/ , ended up here watching up hitler origami .... everything is ok i guess
>>610545Lol kek'd out loud.
>>610562Agreed
>>616169I came for /lit/ and stayed for /fit/ but then I found hit-ler
/pol/ board
Hey! Does anybody have, and would be willing to share scans of this book? I'm mainly looking for Shin's templates. Before you ask, yes I know that I am a bum.
>>615657I don't have that book sorry but i do have 2.38GB of Shin's stuff if that helps.https://www.mediafire.com/file/q114gtjgwn7wr8c/SHIN_TANAKA.rar/fileEnjoy!
>>615680Thanks for this! I have the book but I've already popped out the Shin models. Was fun building them with my kid.
been trying lowering the polygon count and all for the past 3 days
You can make a square box in Pepakura look like a round cylinder when you finally make it out of real paper in the end: just don't fold all the fold lines that Pepakura generates. Of course the paper cylinder will look better if you give the 3D box more sides. The trick is to find your balance between "not wanting the wanting to lower the polycount because it would look like ass" and realizing the paper model will be made out of paper, not polygons. "Lots of details in" the 3D usually only means lots of tiny pieces that are difficult to glue together when it's finally paper, which is often actually what makes paper models "look like ass" imho.It doesn't have to be like that. Physical paper is pliable of course and very forgiving if you want to curve it, much more than a digital 3D model that has to be made out of flat triangles.
>>615476>>615482thanks for the tips anonsgot occupied with some other work so couldn't continue for a dayI figured out sum work around between the blender settings and fixing the UV map manuallystarting from scratch, will first use whatever settings available to just select and delete the parts under the clothes cuz yeah, then lower the polygons for the clothes, then the visible skin, and after that some last overall model tweaking.will refer to sum other model pdos and such and hopefully get somewhere
>>615476>>615482again, thanks for the advicewill keep yall updated
>>615475If i (https://boards.4channel.org/po/thread/603852) may give you sort of pro-tip do a triage on what parts (hair, eyes, clothing and accesories) and mercilessly cut it off first before you do any sort of decimation be it manual or automatic. Not only they might make assembly overly hard so you might ultimately give up but they regularly look better scratch. Also do while you might be decimation and testing that model&texture in blender do bear in mind Pepa does its own polygon merging on load of complex model. One way or another thousands of faces gonna perish.
You'll want to look up some retopo and texture baking tutorials for blender. Most of the facial details will need to be flattened into a texture for instance.
Ever since I found the model for this paper box, I can't stop making them. They're so simple, yet solid and versatile. Share your favourite paper box models!!!
imout, will post some another day if thread still up
Can someone help me with this?I don't understand steps 11-13, how do I pinch and reverse fold at the same time and does the order matter?I love Tomoko Fuse's Boxes so far but this one keeps getting me nowhere.
>>615782yes dude found it in video with the time code https://youtu.be/LYQQLH70BxU?t=264
>>615815oh my GOD thank you!!!
Dope
since 15 dollars in my country is a fortune, does anyone know of a telegram group or other place that has paid models? specifically the one in the photo (which I was willing to pay for but only found resellers)
That one is free at Paperzone, who wants to sell it to you? XD
>>615965really? i found it but my account didn't meet the requirements (even though i'm already verified)
>>615965>>615967Link it, I'll see if mine can grab it
>>615969heres the link, it seems to be a premium model so no chance of getting it for freehttps://paperzonevn.com/evangelion-mari-illustrious-makinami.t7139
>>615970Oh i didnt even notice their pricing changed, I'll buy an account again when i get paid
Does anyone can share anythings of these old gundam paper models? Lately, these models seem not to be obtained.
>>612932just buy the gunpla my guy
Hello /po/, I am (for some reason) ADDICTED to turtles and tortoises, and I would like to make a really beautiful origami of: a turtle, a sea turtle and a tortoise. I would also like them to have a plastron (underside of the shell). Ignore (if you want) this turtle I posted, I posted it just to have an image. Any recommendation will be welcome.
Green sea Turtle by Yoo Tae Yong
>>612407https://www.giladorigami.com/origami-database/turtle
Trip down to memory lane. I remember making turtles when i was in 5th grade
>>612407thanks
