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File: IMG_20231214_070524.jpg (1.66 MB, 3001x1669)
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If you can make this thing a reality I'll resign as an art (netzach) tutor. oragami is kino

hello, can anyone help me to convert pdo to pdf?.
i found the nilou character pdo but i have a hard time accessing the fdo file because it's too big and besides i don't have a pc.
please help guys!
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>>615462
that is designer not viewer
are they gatekeeping and excluding builders who are not papercraft designers?
and this won't directly install on my mac, linux test machine, or smartphone. gatekeeping against anyone not on winblows?
i'm starting to wonder why anyone would ever use this thing.
>>
>>615477
cos its the one that works?
duh..
>>
>>615477
The download includes both the Designer version and the Viewer version nowadays. Search Paper-Maker and you'll find a website where you can open PDO files in your browser without having to install anything. You will have to make an acoount I think.
>>
Cambio el papercraft de Marín hololive por el papercraft nilou
>>
Hello, I would like to know if anyone has the instructions for Hatsune Miku 5th Anniversary Symphony

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I've made several custom paperized papertoys, based on upcoming Oppenheimer film.
First one up is J.Robert Oppenheimer as played by Cillian Murphy.

Download PDF here: https://www.blog.private-universe.net/2023/07/13/papercraft-paperized-oppenheimer-papertoy-trinity-site-version/
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I've started series of Good Omens papertoys with versions of main characters from TV-show (they are a birthday gift for a friend).
I plan to make book versions too later.

Download here: https://www.blog.private-universe.net/series/good-omens-papertoys/
>>
Papertoys of characters from Good Omens book, inspired by book covers and fanart.
Crowley: https://www.blog.private-universe.net/2023/11/13/papercraft-paperized-good-omens-crowley-papertoy-book-version/
Aziraphale: https://www.blog.private-universe.net/2023/11/16/papercraft-paperized-good-omens-aziraphale-papertoy-book-version/
>>
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Latest addition to my collection of Paperized customs - "Our Flag Means Death" main characters.
This was a commission from a fan of the show, who wanted to give smth back to the fandom in thanks for keeping them sane through 2022-2023.


Download free PDFs: https://www.blog.private-universe.net/series/our-flag-means-death-papertoys/
>>
Recently I reworked my Tenet papertoys
Download free PDF here: https://www.blog.private-universe.net/series/tenet-papertoys/
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>>615124
lol at the paper cranes.

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if anyone has this please share. (sorry for the quality I only found this image, but the title of the book is NOA Magazine 5).
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>>609770
could you share NOA 165 PLEASE
>>
File: 280.pdf (4.92 MB, PDF)
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>>611963
>>
File: noa-445.pdf (7.63 MB, PDF)
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>>609703
I can only hope that whoever has these and won't trade or share them enjoys them on their way to hell.
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>>609615
I don’t have it

anyone who has this model to trade please
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>>617646
>>
>>617646
Like they said
It's fucking 6 bucks
Buy it
>>
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>>617660
Not OP. That's what I did. :3
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>>617670
hell yeah
support the artists and we'll get more
>>
>>617672
Fuck off lmao
Commented on a shit ton of posts for what

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Just here to flex I got my shipment from Taobao
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>>615531
Nice, I was thinking about using a Cricut and to draw "over" the vector/image file so it would cut and crease the paper automatically.

These papercraft from SEGA have the crease marks all over them, so they are kinda ugly if you don't edit them, but the model is pretty good. They didn't do all the animals though, nor the fruits/items. There is only one Chao.

The only way to make the whole thing would be to rip the models and create new papercraft models based on these ripped models.
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>>615532
Cricut would just be a hassle to make your scores, i just use a ruler and a dulled safety pin


Also making your own models is a whole other bit opf bullshit if you dont have experience in 3D modeling, or lowering polygons and shit,

best place to start would be with already very pixelated things, like me I've gone through some of the masks from Majoras mask to design my own papercrafts using Pepakura
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>>614686
Hahaha faggot
>>
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>>614589
That's pretty nice. I only got pic related after all these years.
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>>617680
https://maimania.blogspot.com/?m=1

Can order things for you

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Hello, does anyone have this model? Please let's trade
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https://www.instagram.com/reel/CvuEmhSKmkM/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
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bumo
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>>613581
I don’t have it
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>>613587
hi friend, can u share model Faruzan please?
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>>613581
post it

My stuff

Say nice things about it
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>>617620
They look like Medabots
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>>615798
Where to get the sword girl tho
>>
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>>615798
nice
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>>615798
are you from portugal?
>>
idk what you call this style but i fucking love it

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Endless garden 6 modular units
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>>617619
Nice work anon!

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Modified sonobe ball made of 3 inch units
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>>617579
That's cute, not as good as another thread's but I like it

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6 slide together squares. modified sonobe units, and a dodecahedron from playing cards
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>>617599
That's amazing!

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Recently got back into Quake with the release of Quake II remastered, and came across some photos of this model online-I thought I used to have a copy of it, but can't find it-I can only find the similar Ninjatoes version.

Does anyone have a copy of this model they could scan and preserve for the future? It is pretty old; from 1997! I've been searching for it for awhile with no luck.
>>
>>615614
Does this help

https://ninjatoes.wordpress.com/category/miscellaneous/quake/
>>
>>615676
>I can only find the similar Ninjatoes version.
>>
>>615676

Sorry dude, I've got this one already! I appreciate it though :)
>>
http://home.clara.net/rogerpattenden/quake-marine.html

This place still has and sells them, at least as of 3 months ago. Pretty cheap. Someone should buy one and upload it.
>>
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He-Man re-color

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Hello! I make pepakura for money. Models are usually constructed only once. My pieces are not so much like what we can find online; they tend to be VERY large and intricate, akin to a vg model. This is context for what my advice applies to. If you do it as an easy hobby or stick with truly low poly/tiny part models, a lot won't apply. No pic related just inspo, this is advice dump not my art thread. If you have any questions, why X, tell me more about Z, I am happy to oblige. I rarely use 4chan and wrote this on a whim, sorry if no reply. If you are interested in reaching for the stars with pepakura, here are my personal trade secrets.

MATERIALS/TOOLS
---Do not score the fold lines by hand. If you have a silhouette cameo, go ahead. To fold by hand purchase a glass scraper. I have two, one with a small 1.5 inch blade and another that is 4 inches. Dull the blade. I align the fold line across my fingers, press down with the blade.
---Stop using an xacto knife. Get a snap blade utility knife. I HIGHLY recommend OLFA, XA-1 design.
---Titebond II Premium wood glue. It doesn't cure instantly but that's good, you don't want that. You want to be able to move the tab around into the perfect position before it starts curing. You have a 10 second window to make sure it's in position before it starts curing, then another 10 seconds till you can let go & any tension in the structure won't pull the tab out of place.
---Tiny squeezable craft bottles for glue. One of the bottles I added thicker medical syringe tube. It is long, which is good for when I have to apply glue to a tab which is difficult to access The other bottle has a 1 inch long coffee straw, I use that for when I need a lot of glue then spread it around. When a tab is huge I just open a jar of glue and use a brush to paint it on.
---Dental tools.
---Little neodymium magnets. I rarely use them, usually to hold a tab in place after the glue has already cured to the point that I can let go. See below
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STRATEGY 2
Think about where a piece is in relation to other pieces. You wouldn't begin to put together a section which, once constructed, would be a physical barrier stopping you from completing another section. You wouldn't start building a snakes head and tail at once; when both halves are completed you cannot reach inside the two halves to position and hold the tabs down as the glue cures.
Each model is like a puzzle & the snake is easy to solve. Start at the head and end at the tail. You can't reach inside to hold the final tabs, but the paper won't be resisting you with tension at that stage. Even the most complex pieces can be very easy to construct if you properly solve the puzzle of where to start, what pieces come next, and where to end.
In my early days of making other people's models I'd sometimes see difficulty ratings. It seemed like an unnecessary deterrent. I don't want to say every piece is easy to make, but every piece can be made easy and faster. Typical advice, work smart not hard. If I have a giant half completed model on the floor I'm not going to cut, fold, and attach one piece at a time unless that's the best move. That's slower. I'll often glue a few pieces together before attaching them to the model.

!!!What you can and can't do is completely determined by your ability to do the following: Move the tab into position, secure it, shift it into its perfect spot, and use your fingers to press the entire length of the tab to its edge while the glue cures, WITH ONLY TWO HANDS!!!
It's not an issue for most pieces out there, but if you want to get into hardcore models it will be a huge deal. With smaller pieces , maybe something curvy like an ear, you really need to think about its natural tendency. Human skin has a natural flow like a sand dune; surgeons will cut you open along the grain so it's easy to close back up. Work along the grain. I think I've explained the concept, the rest comes thru experience, judgement and foresight.
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FINAL PRODUCT
I never use colored paper or printed textures. If you want a really nice product, move away from that. Texture has its use in hobby pieces.
The glue can overflow out of the seam and get on the paper. If you want to get rid of it then you'll have to cut that part off the model and start over. Look up fox pepakura. If I were to design a simple cute lil fox, that kind of coloring fits the model, but even so there is really no point in using colored paper. Just use painters tape to mask the area you want to paint, at that point you can now add subtle detail to your unique piece.
Aesthetically, the best part of large, complex pepakura is its geometry. A single light source makes the whole thing pop. Shadow brings it to life, moving the source changes its appearance. When I finish a piece I spray paint it white to remove imperfection. Most of my pieces sell in this state, that is just what most people want when I show them what it looks like with different light sources and light colors cast on it. I inform the buyer that I can paint it a different solid color, or I can give it a more intricate paint job with undershading/zenithal highlight and/or a more realistic design that doesn't take away from the geometry.
For example, a seahorse would do well with a base color, alternate coloring of specific geometry (using painters tape to mark off sections), eyes, and free form spray painting (letting the paint spit out in little drops, spraying highlight on tail tip, undershading), finalize with matte/clear glaze. The geometry is retained and highlighted through this paint job. Don't overdo. My goal is not to make it appear realistic like VGs do to convince you it does't have geometry. I'm not going to print texture on it, not going to use a paintbrush. If I wanted to make a giant realistic seahorse I wouldn't be using paper as a medium. Its form is inherently geometric. Any color design should compliment that.
>>
GOING BIG
Working with such large paper models requires support. 3D printing at this scale has so much imperfection, time and risk of failure, it would be very heavy and require a complex web of internal support. As an art form, sculpting/mold pouring also isn't under threat from this tech in my eyes. For my pieces, shoddy woodworking as a skeleton does the job and I pad the areas were wood contacts the paper with pool noodles, pillow filling wrapped in fabric, fire hazard stuff. 120 lb paper is flexible, surprisingly resilient, and the final product is so lightweight it's never going to warp if properly supported. I use wood glue so the paper will rip before the tabs will ever become unsecured.
I've had to finish assembly after transport on site, that's something I avoid, logistic crap. I tend to base the size of my largest pieces around standard dimensions. Standard height of a ceiling, standard width and height of a door and double doors. LxWxH is not a determine factor, you can maneuver a piece diagonally and twist it around to make it fit through a frame.
MODELING
idk. I have no formal training. I studied art from my favorite games, Bloodborne and Dark Souls, looked at art, texture-less models. At first I only made symmetrical models and added asymmetrical parts afterwards. Just get blender go on youtube and practice. I copied a bunch of low poly tutorials and then my first model was a huge leap into complexity. If you're making a cat and the proportions look weird just look at a reference and keep messing with it till it seems right. Once you have the proportions right you can make the polygons look more geometric-y. I am not a creative person. I do this in reverence of objective beauty and other's art, try to reverently replicate it in this form. Thanks for reading I hope this helped or inspired you
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thank you for this excellent thread
>>
Nice thread, cheers for the glass cutting tool tip.

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I want to make Tim Avery from son of the Mask as a papercraft figure. Can you help /po/???
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no, sorry buddy
>>
Sorry can’t do it
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ill try
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>>612675
I see

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Made with ow's 60 degree unit
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>>617430
pretty cool man
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>>617430
cool


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