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File: V E L V I A 5 0.jpg (512 KB, 615x615)
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saturation edition

old thread: >>3529197
All analog/film photography related questions and general discussion is to take place in this thread.
35mm, 120, medium format, large format, instant, polaroid, instax, C41, E6, B&W, developing, scanning, labs, darkroom etc.
Post photos as often as possible, we want to see that beautiful grainy goodness!

useful links:
http://istillshootfilm.org/beginners-guide-film-photography
https://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php
http://industrieplus.net/dxdatabase

>posting in /fgt/ doesn't make you gay, unless the flatness of portra

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Last night's effort. Still 10 more rolls to develop.
>>
>>3534110
Cool stuff what film stock were ya shooting?
>>
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Storm last night shot on Portra 160 6x7.

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Redpill me on the M2

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>>
>>3534315
If you don't need an internal meter and don't want to shoot wider than 35mm without external finder, then get one.
>>
>>3534279
nice
>>
>>3534315
Your culture is being replaced, and the M2 is a nice camera.
>>
i don't like the gear thread so i'll ask here
need a cheap digital lightmeter, for my film cameras.
any recomendations maybe ? used ones from ebay etc.
>>
>>3534376
An app on your phone.
>>
File: DSC06909.jpg (639 KB, 1280x1920)
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Finally I got a decent macro lens for scanning.

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small island vibez

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>>3534386
Based scan, based picture.
>>
>>3534279
Awesome. Where is this?
>>
From what I’ve read it was rangefinder and even simple viewfinder cameras had aperture priority, shutter priority, and program mode first, and these were only later ported over to the SLR world.

Why was this? Was their something about the SLR that made it harder to automate? Or were SLR’s just aimed at advanced users that supposedly didn’t need auto exposure?
>>
>>3534411
>rangefinder and even simple viewfinder cameras had aperture priority, shutter priority, and program mode first, and these were only later ported over to the SLR world.
>Why was this?
Because those cameras existed before SLRs did.
>>
>>3534102
toasting on comfy alex bread
>>
File: 41YagoSXsXL.jpg (21 KB, 500x500)
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Has anyone here used the Lomography Digitaliza ?
Iam wondering if the 120 Holder shows the Edges of the Film just like how the 35mm Holder shows the Sprockets
>>
File: mt herzl.jpg (2.54 MB, 1500x1200)
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>>3534409
It was near the Nebraska / Wyoming border, crazy storms there yesterday. Saw several tornadoes too.
>>
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>>3534458
this photo makes no fucking sense
also it looks like a place pajeets should go in and shit all over that place
>>
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What is your most favorite film and why is it Portra 400?

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>>3534517
>What is your most favorite film and why is it Portra 400?
>>
So if I set my camera to AV mode, and I look through the viewfinder and can see what the aperture and shutterspeed is, can I assume that I can ensure my image is properly exposed in normal conditions by making sure the shutterspeed stays at ~1/80-1/250 depending on what aperture I use? I just bought a film camera and took two photos. One was in an underground subway with the aperture at 2.8, 1/80 with 400 ISO film, and another was in the street with overcast weather at f/8 and I think 1/100.
>>
>>3534521
Yep those setting sound about right for those scenes
>>
>>3534522
Thanks anon, I'm relieved to know it's correct. I'm so used to never shooting above f/4 in almost any scene that going up to f/8 confused me at the start. Now I just gotta hope I'm getting my focusing spot on because sometimes I can't tell on my A-1
>>
>>3534279
Neato I never knew you shot MF, thought you were only about that LF life

>>3534315
Some people complain about the loading and the film rewinder but pretty much what >>3534318 said.
>>
File: IMG_9905-1080x720.jpg (80 KB, 1080x720)
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The Spotmatic F is probably the most underrated and scarcely mentioned camera I know, despite it being an excellent M42 mount choice. Just wanted to put that out there.
>>
>>3534574
Because other mounts are more modern and have better lenses
>>
>>3534376
Any time we recommend a good one it becomes an often recommended meme, then an e-celeb lurking here or reddit buys one, and the used prices skyrocket. Best to keep those light meter recs secret like how OM lenses used to be a secret meme. But really any light meter will be fine, especially if you don't do any flash work. Even an app on your phone is probably overkill.
>>
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I had an Olympus Trip 35 for a while, bought it due to the Night Trip 35 group on Flickr. Pretty cool that you can trick it into being usable in low light. This is the best shot I got out several "night walks". I think the key for low light is using colour though, you get more out of it other than light and shadow. Still, I like how this turned out, especially the masks to the right.

Also the film tracks had some dust on it that I forgot to clean off so the whole roll has a camera scratch across it. Clean your gear inside and outside, lads.

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>>3534376
I have an iPhone app called "Light meter" it was like $15, I compared it to my leica meter mr and it was actually spot on and so easy to use. I've shot a roll using it aswell and it came out perfect. I'd recommend the app, free ones are probably just as good
>>
>>3534618
I use one called "Light Meter" on Android too. It has an icon with F.16 on it. For working out long exposures on film I use "Exposure Assistant". And for miscellaneous stuff like location scouting, DOF calculating and astro I use "PhotoPills". PhotoPills actually has a really nice community hub and regular contests, though it's aimed at professionals. I find it makes me want to try harder because the level of the work submitted is crazy high unlike the amateur to enthusiast skill level on /p/.
>>
I find that with phone metering apps it really doesn't matter what app you use. It depends pretty much entirely on the quality of meter reading you get from the OS.
>>
>>3534654
What's the best free lightmeter for iOS?
>>
>>3534656
If I was a millionaire I would gladly tell you
>>
File: 1545600984745.jpg (1.49 MB, 1141x1707)
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>>3534657
What's the problem?

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>>3534532
I have my moments. Storm chasing on LF.... not really gonna happen.
>>
File: StrasburgStormPano3x1.jpg (169 KB, 1200x400)
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Ok so the next two shots are sort of film, sort of cheating. The were shot on Portra 160 with a 6x7, but since it's damn near impossible to get these storms in even with an ultrawide I shot them as four shot panos with the camera vertical. Then I scanned all four shots in as a single frame on the drum scanner and stitched them together in PS to make panos. It was a fun experiment.

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>>
>>3534656
Just try a few instead of asking some anons what's best. They have different layouts and styles so you won't know what's "best" for you until you try. Some like rotary dial style and some like more modern styles. Plus they're free so who cares, try them all.
>>
File: SunflowerStormPanorama.jpg (238 KB, 1200x400)
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>>3534671
And here's another one as the storm here >>3534279 moved a little closer.

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>>
>>3534671
You should print that one.
>>
>>3534671
>>3534676
Very cool. I have thought about doing panos on film but never wound up doing it. Do you first stitch the negative scans and then colour correct the entire thing?
>>
>>3534279
Is this a 45mm on Pentax 6x7? Because I shoot that combo (though my style is very different) and this looks very familiar.
>>
Can someone tell me if I’m understanding sunny16 right? So according to this image if I have say Portra 400 film, and I set my shutter speed to 1/400 to match the ISO, I can just follow this chart and choose the aperture according to the scene and I’ll have correctly exposed pictures every time? What do I do if I want to shoot at 2.8 during the day to get a nice amount of bokeh on a portrait subject?

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>>3534676
How do you avoid distorsion when making panoramas, I always get that round go pro look when I do them.

Not asking about film specifically
>>
>>3534722
Also the maximum shutter speed my camera can achieve is 1/1000
>>
>>3534677
I just did. Looks neat.

>>3534682
I did a rough inversion of the negatives as I use the film border as a reference point during my initial inversion. Then I stitched the four frames and continued with color correction.

>>3534703
Yep, it's the 45mm. Seems to have a distinct look. As a 4x5 shooter, I'm not sure I like the stretchy wide angle looking up feel but it's ok for a storm shot.

>>3534724
Honestly I don't really know. I just used the "Auto" setting on Photoshop's "Photomerge" and it seemed to work flawlessly. I didn't have to do anything to correct that at all.
>>
>>3534722
If you want to be creative with your aperture then use a light meter to suss out what you should do. Like we've been saying ITT, even an app on your phone is more than enough. On my app I can dial in the ISO and the aperture then have it spit out a shutter speed. Most likely you'll just have to jack your shutter speed up to 1/1000 but it's worth double checking depending on your light and subject.
>>
>>3534728
Thanks anon. I downloaded one that seems to be good, will be using it when I go out and shoot next.
>>
File: 20190912_00003_010~2.jpg (256 KB, 1766x1160)
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Any tips for better scanning?

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>>3534751
What are you using atm?
>>
>>3534754
Canon printer's normal scanner atm
>>
File: 20190912_00003_004~2.jpg (124 KB, 1712x1171)
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>>3534754
As for the camera I use a Yashica f-x3 200 with colorfilm 200

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>>3534722
Following the Sunny 16 rule, if you open the aperture up by one stop, then you need to increase the shutter speed by one stop.

That said, you need film with a pretty low ISO or a ND filter to shoot at f2.8 in full sun.
>>
>>3534727
Cool, it definitely does have a distinct look which is probably why it looked so familiar to me. Not sure how the other wides for the Pentax compare since I only have the 45mm, but for my use the distortion is not really an issue at all. Would like to try the Hasselblad SWC at some point to compare.
>>
I wonder why still photography did not have another generation in between film and digital, in which the light was captured from a CCD sensor, but the storage medium was still analog. You know, like video had.
>>
Not sure if SQG or film.

But why exactly does it matter what ISO the film has? If you can just push a 400 to 3200, what is the point in getting a 3200 film?

Does the exposure just look more balanced if you use a film that corresponds with the chosen ISO?

What if you took a 3200 and used it at ISO 200? Etc.
>>
>>3534777

I think the executive summary would be that box speed produces the most "natural" contrast and finest details, and for color film the box speed is also the only speed at which the colors neccessarily balance as the manufacturer intended.
>>
Guys, I did it. I officially became retarded.
>>
>>3534764
But it did.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sony_Mavica
>>
>>3534791

Oh shit, that was analog? I always thought those floppies were digital like regular (computer) floppies
>>
>>3534792
The later ones were, but the earliest ones from the 80s were still video.
>>
>>3534785

That's pretty much what I assumed as well, good to know I was right, hah.
>>
>>3534790
>Leica
>no M
retard
>>
>>3534790
That better was exceedingly cheap and came with a bunch of lenses.
>>
>>3534794

Damn, what did the images look like? Did it look as shitty as when you pause a videotape in the middle of a movie? No wonder it didn't replace film.
>>
>>3534802
>Cheap
Yes, very
>Lenses
No, but it has box, papers, neck strap

Just gonna put a minolta lens on it or something, shoot a few rolls than sell it or keep it if I like it.
Actually, I just like the design.
>>
>>3534574
>>3534581
M42 is a god-tier mount.

>prices not inflated by use on modern bodies because the mount is defunct
>pretty much the cheapest zeiss glass in existence
>pentax takumars
>helios
>>
>>3534790
I want a Leica R system some day. I really like the aesthetics. Some R glass isn't that insane price wise. The R3 is the sexiest Leica SLR, probably also because it is the least Leica.
>>
>>3534777
This is only true for black and white. Colour film has development times and temps set for the exact ISO on the can. You can't just freely push and pull and expect an ISO 100 C41 film to perform as an ISO 400 one.
>>
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My Grandad has a Reid & Sigrist Reid III that he recently dug out, he said he is going to shoot it for the first time, going to see if he will let me have a go at some point. Anyone had any experience shooting with this?

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>>3534807
>Just gonna put a minolta lens on it or something, shoot a few rolls than sell it or keep it if I like it.

Turns out the there arent too many options for this shit.
>>
>>3534847
>the Brits did a Leica 3 clone
I had no idea, hope it fares better than the Soviet one.
>>
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>>3534777
Cause pushing doesn't *actually* increase the iso beyond 0.5 to 1 stop, and that in special pushing developers.
The formula to calculate the ISO takes into account base+fog density, and the HD curve of the film.
Intuitively you can think of it like this: the ISO is determined by base+fog density (think noise floor), and then the length of the curve's toe (i.e. the non-steep part at the beginning) and the steepness of the curve's middle part.
The lower the base+fog, the higher the ISO. The shorter the toe, the higher the ISO. The steeper the middle part of the curve, the higher the ISO.

What pushing does is make the middle part of the curve steeper, but since it also makes the toe longer and the base+fog higher, they mostly cancel out and the ISO doesn't change much.

What it means practically, is that if you push film, you'll get less shadow detail and more contrast compared to a native higher-ISO film. Pushing also increases grain, but a pushed slower film still has smaller grain than the (same family) higher ISO film.
So you decide what you prefer, a less grainy but more contrasty look, or more shadow detail but bigger grain. Other practical points are availability, price, what you have with you™, and that past certain speeds there just aren't any films available natively at higher ISOs.

Pulling has the opposite effect: It reduces grain slightly, and it decreases contrast allowing you to keep lots of shadow detail without blocking the highlights. This is great for contrasty scenes, but can make flat scenes appear even flatter. Still though, you can up the contrast during printing with contrast filters, and pulled negatives are very easy to work with. In general, pulling is a far more useful technique to use regularly - apart from when higher speed is necessary - everybody seems to be hyped about pushing even in broad daylight.

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>>3534879
Yep and from what he remembers it's supposed to be better, but then again he was told that from the guy he bought it from so who knows
>>
>>3534892
Yeah I mean I had a guy trying to sell me a Kiev 88 tell me it was better than a Hasselblad moments before it fell apart in my hands.
>>
>>3534896
Well it seems really well built and it looks/feels of high quality, I will see if I can get the pics off him when he has tried it and post them.
>>
>>3534279
This is really cool, anon! And even this >>3534671
is wonderful, congratulations!
>>
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>>3534487
it's 2 soldiers at a military cemetery but um thanks?

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>>
What is the best Canon EF film camera I could get for up to ~ 50 bucks or so?
>>
>>3535005
EOS620 built like a tank but less features than the others, single center AF point
EOS Elan
EOS Elan IIe this one has more features than the first Elan but isn't as tough
EOS10
EOS 5 or A2e if you find a good deal
>>
>>3535013
Thanks!
>>
Any recommendations for a camera to shoot pictures from within a diorama?
My only film camera is a TLR, which I got for general use, but obviously it's hard to use for close up work like dioramas.
>>
>>3534845
I see, so if I'm shooting B/W pushing the ISO doesn't do much beyond making the exposure/contrast less 'natural' as mentioned in another response?

But what happens with colour?
>>
>>3534886
Thanks for the detailed response! But you're using a lot of technical terms I'm not sure what means. "fog" and "base" "density" "noise floor", "toe", "curve" etc.

I mean I obviously understand the English words but I don't understand them in the context of photography. Noise I guess you mean 'grain' but the rest I'm not really surer what you mean by.

>but a pushed slower film still has smaller grain than the (same family) higher ISO film.

I see, so the 'only' actual difference between a film that has the ISO you're actually shooting at is the more/less shadow detail and contrast?

> it decreases contrast allowing you to keep lots of shadow detail without blocking the highlights.

Right, I know a lot of people recommend pulling 1 time on film because of this exact thing. Would you agree on this?

The reason I want to push is mainly because I'm going to a concert/festival thing so I'm assuming there will be bad/low lighting.
>>
>tri-x 400
>hp5
>other?
what does /film/ recommend for a beginner in film photography who wants to shoot black and white?
>>
Rescued Parrot.

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>>
Day of Judement, God is Calling

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Pepper

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Readings

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Musings at the UNM Duck Pond

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The Pews

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Police Situation and the careless woman

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Dog Days of Summer

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Matt from the Picture Perfect Photo Lab

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>>3535048
>>3535051
>>3535052
>>3535054
>>3535055
Nice pics, Anon.
>>
>>3535054
Hey hold on, you're the Albuquerque Anon who shoots film in Black and White. I recall some of your work, such as people in churches and all. Glad to see you're back. You might not remember but I told you once in here you inspired me to buy my first camera and shoot daily life. Been improving ever since, step by step. Don't leave us hanging, Anon.
>>
>>3535065
Thanks babe.

>>3535067
That I am and I do remember. I’ve been shooting as much as I can given my schedule between work and nursing school. I think I got about 27 rolls in August, give or take a couple but I’ve moved on from scanning with the older Nikon scanners to a friend’s Sony A7. I’ve got lots to share but have consolidated scanning to once a month. Thanks anon.
>>
Pagosa Springs, Labor Day weekend

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relax, don’t do it.

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Nambe Falls, NM

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Friendly Parrot

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Fp4 in Vancouver
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>>3535078
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>>3535080
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>>3535082
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>>3535085
Fuqk
>>
>>3535044
Tri-X all day
>>
>>3534279
I don't really understand why you still post on this godforsaken website but I'm really glad you do. That's a bloody amazing shot, I already knew it was going to be good when I saw it on your IG story a few days ago.
>>
>>3534525
Get contact lenses for better focusing if you're myopic. Also you might have to calibrate the focusing screen.
>>
>>3535044
trix or hp5, whichever is cheaper locally, developed in d76 or id11
>>
>>3535042
The development time for C41 is standardized so that an ISO 100 shot at ISO 100 will have to be in the developer for the same length as a ISO 800 film shot at ISO 800. Box speed will always have the closest color balance to what the manufacturer intended, while the more you push the more the color will start to deviate. If you're pushing 2 stops you'll definitely get some color cast that depend on the film and the lighting. At 3 stops most colour film starts falling apart with excessive noise, bad shadow detail and strong color cast especially in the shadows. Generally you'll get less saturation with overexposure and more with underexposure, and a film shot at box speed will almost always have better detail and lower grain than a film that's half as fast and was pushed a stop.
Also with slide (E6) film you have maybe about a stop of latitude in the best case scenario, and after that it falls apart very quickly. Slide film is almost like digital in the way you expose it. If it doesn't get enough light it will be hard to recover any shadow detail even with pushing, and overdeveloping will destroy highlight detail because unlike C41 film, the emulsion actually gets "thinner" the more you expose/develop it. C41 gets "thicker" with more light, which is fairly easy to compensate for during scanning; you just shine more light through the darker negative. But you can't just shine less light through a transparent part of slide film to get an image that's not there.
>>
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>>3535043
I'll explain a bit more.
Every film has something called a characteristic curve (or HD curve). It describes the way the films builds density after development (i.e. how dark it gets to the naked eye) relative to the exposure it has received. Look at picrelated.

Toe, middle part and shoulder are just areas in that curve, in practice they correspond to shadow details, midtones and highlights in your photo.

You see how the density doesn't start from 0? That's because the physical base of the film where the emulsion is coated on, is not completely transparent, but has a density itself. And secondarily, there's "fog", unwanted density that builds up "accidentally" even without exposure. That could be due to the film aging, cosmic rays/radiation, heat, etc. .

That's what base+fog is, the combined densities of the base material and the fog. And when doing calculations, any density up to that point is "discarded", you start counting from base+fog and up.
Notably, the ISO calculation takes the base+fog level into account. The lower the base+fog, the higher the ISO - all other things being equal.

>I see, so the 'only' actual difference between a film that has the ISO you're actually shooting at is the more/less shadow detail and contrast?
Yes.

>Right, I know a lot of people recommend pulling 1 time on film because of this exact thing. Would you agree on this?
Sure. It's really useful for high contrast scenes. And when in doubt it's always better to have a negative that is a bit too low in contrast, than a bit too high. Cause all the information is there on a low contrast neg so you can increase contrast at will during printing. But a high contrast negative has lost some information so you can't go back.
>>
>>3535109

Would you say then that if for some reason you had NO choice but to shoot c41 film 1-2 stops underexposed, it’s better to correct it in the scanning process than to push it?

(Say for instance you just genuinely exposed it at the wrong speed and didn’t find out until later..)
>>
>>3535181
No, I'd still push it. Density refers to how "thick" the image in the emulsion is. With any kind of negative film the more light and development it gets the thicker it is, because more silver halides turn into silver. If your density is high (so you overexposed/overdeveloped) you can shine more light through the negative but the detail is still there (up to a certain point). If the density is too low then there's not enough detail and your image will be very muddy. Like I said, you can shine an extremely strong light through something that's very opaque but has detail and thus extract that detail, but you can't shine an extremely weak light through a transparent material that has no detail. Negative film is transparent when it's not exposed/developed enough to form an image, slide (reversal) film is transparent when it's exposed/developed beyond its limit. The closer you get to transparent the less detail you'll have.
If you don't expose the film and you develop it it will be transparent and you'll get no image. If you expose it but skip development and just bleach it you'll get no image. If you expose it a little bit and develop it a little bit you'll get a thin negative with a faint image. If you expose it a little bit and develop it a lot you'll get a somewhat thicker negative but with a lot of grain. If you develop and expose normally you'll get an image with "normal" density and less grain. If you expose it a lot and develop normally you'll get thick negative with fine grain, but your scanner might struggle to resolve the highlight detail. Since highlights are the darkest part of the negative this is where the scanner will have the most digital noise. But if you DSLR scan or somehow otherwise have an adjustable backlight then you can use more light and get a less noisy digital image.
>>
>>3535194
>you can't shine an extremely weak light through a transparent material that has no detail.
I mean you could but you'd get no image because there's no detail. If you exposed even a little bit and developed properly your image will always fall somewhere between transparent and completely opaque but generally speaking it's better to be closer to opaque. Giving the film more light during exposure and developing it for a longer period both increase density and bring it closer to being opaque, but giving it more light will reduce grain and ensure that the different color layers are even.
>>
yo /fg/t, since the op is about LF..
i would apppreciate advice on choosing a 4x5 body
so far i've been eyeing the Chamonix 45H-1:
-pros: bellow can acommodate 60mm to 350mm; fairly generous rise fall, shift movements; quick setup
-cons: double-track focus rail seems to have some quirks
anyone has experience with this model? or recommendation of other bodies?
>>
>>3535070
My younger sister is at nursing school too, I completely understand your time situation. Keep pushing, and it's nice seeing your photography work again.
>>
>>3535073
>manlets
>when will they learn?
>>
>>3534113
Pan-f plus

Souped in rodinal 1:50 for 12:30
>>
help i turned saturation up to 11 and now real world looks dull

what do I do?
>>
>>3535401
Take more photos so you can experience the world as it should be.
>>
(1/3)
new roll, how’d I do? mju-ii Superia400 nothing special

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>>3535470
(2/3)

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>>3535472
(3/3)

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>>3534830
>>3534574
This
M42 is so nice and widely used on old bodies and the helios and jupiter lenses are sharp af stopped down
>>
I just got my first few rolls of 120mm developed and I have a question around scanning / IQ.

So I use this lab in NYC - https://www.bleekerdigital.com/services/film-processing/ and normally go for the high resolution JPEG option since I am under the impression that TIFF is mostly useful for editing images which I rarely do.

The 35mm scans I get back are something like 3600 x 2400, 7mb & 9MP.

The 120mm scans I just got back are 3720 x 3000, 7mb & 11MP.

Some of these 120 shots do look very sharp, but I feel like its not a crazy step up from 35mm like I expected. I would have thought the resolution would be much larger. Is this possibly because of the scans I'm getting? I realize there's alot of other things at play but can someone help me compare with what kind of files they are getting for their 120 scans? Thanks
>>
>>3535655
and to clarify, the MF camera I'm shoot with is 6x7
>>
>>3535538
Changing lenses takes time on M42, just like at any other screw mount. Every lens is sharp stopped down. If your lens isn't sharp by f/8 you might as well use a coke bottle.
>>
>>3535656
I shoot my own 35mm and 6x7 and the difference in resolution is significant. It can potentially be due to how they scan the files. They likely have high quality dedicated 35mm scanners and lower quality 120 scanners. If you really want to know if it's them find a loupe and inspect the film up close.
>>
>>3535675
It takes me like 5 seconds tops to change lenses on m42 bro
>>
>>3535739
What resolution do your MF files come in as?
>>
>>3535655
Before you get leapt on, there is no such thing as '120mm' film. 120 is the code used to refer to medium format rollfilm that fits 12 6x6 exposures, like 135 is the code for 35mm cartridge film.
>>
>>3535675
>It takes time to change screw mount lenses

Da fuq

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>>3535675
This. Screw mount lenses can be a pain, bayonet mount cameras are infinity easier to use. Not sure about M42 (don't own any m42 cameras anymore) but Leica screw mount lenses take 1080 degrees (three rotations) to put on/take off.as with Leica M it's just a 45 degree turn and it clicks in place. There's no indicator on screw mount lenses where to start so half the time you're just fumbling around trying to find the starting point.
As for sharpness I can easily say that the m42 mount lenses I've used are not as sharp as their Pentax K mount equivalences, same goes for the LTM to M mount lenses I've used. Modern lenses are sharper and built better, what a surprise.
With that being said M42 mount isn't bad or anything I just don't see an argument for them when there's better options, maybe that they're cheaper to buy? But then again photography isn't really a poorfag hobby.


>>3535782
Not trying to be that dude but I timed taking off and putting on a new lenses on both leica screw mount and m mount. M mount took 4 seconds and screw mount took 12 seconds, then again that isn't m42 mount
>>
>>3535793
I normally scan at 3600DPI since that is the fastest on my scanner. I resize to something smaller since that is all I need normally.
>>
>>3535889
I'd say it is a tiny bit more fiddly and requires a little more care than with a bayonet mount. You don't want to cross thread and ruin your lens and body.
>>
>>3534574
My favorite camera. Its heavy as fuck but its built like a tank.

Bought it for $100 and it came with the 55mm f1.8, 200mm f4 and the 24mm f3.5. I had an old spotty that I gave away after I got it. Its a nice camera
>>
I'm a dumbass and posted in the old thread, repostin here

Been shooting film for a while now, been loving it. Starting to get in the habit of just cutting out- and throwing away the worthless negatives I take (mostly stuff that's out of focus or with bad composition, etc).

Is that wise to do or will I regret that? I don't need these taking up space in my negative sleeves I think? Do you guys keep your negatives at all after scanning?
>>
>>3536039
How do I know what DPI my negs were scanned at? What does 3600DPI equal in resolution?
>>
>>3536161
I can calculate the reverse if you want to. DPI is just dots per inch, pixels per inch in practice.
For 6x7 that's 56mm*69mm, about 6 square inches. At 3600DPI that's 77MP.
I might have messed up a little with the mental math though. It should be easy to derive the DPI if you have the megapixels for your film.
>>
>>3536158
It makes sense to do that, but the reason I don't is that I'd wind up with strips of 4 images, or 3, and then a full 6, and then a 5, etc.

I just like keeping my film in strips of 6. Only time I toss the technically bad shots is if they are at the very beginning or end of a roll.
>>
>>3536161
>What does 3600DPI equal in resolution?
For 6x7? A bit over 70megapixels.
Convert each dimension of your frame from mm into inches, for instance 6x7 is ~56mm*68mm = 2.2in*2.68in.
Then multiply by 3600 each dimension, so you have
2.2*3600*2.68*3600=~76,000,000 pixels, i.e. 76MP. Could be slightly up or down depending on the exact dimensions of your frame (each camera has its own film gate and mask, and thus slightly different frame size), as well as the negative carrier on the scanner, which might crop your frame a bit.
>>
>>3534517
>shooting Kodak film in Japan

Fuji color balance is literally made for Japanese blues and greens.
>>
>>3536158
At least Robert Frank used to do that, cut out and throw away negatives he didn’t intend to use. I keep all my negatives but only print the decent shots I see on the contact sheets. When scanning I just don’t scan the roll at all if there’s not enough good photos on it.
>>
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>>3534671
This looks great.
I just got my slides back for an attempted pano I did with a 6x6.
I had a tripod and took a shot. advanced film but leaving no gap. rotated camera took next shot.
but i was dumb and rotated the wrong direction for the advance so i scanned them as individual shots and stitched them in post.
Again those storm clouds look great. Might need to grab porta on a cloudy day

>>3535050
good pupp
>>3535055
comfy. i like it

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>>3536206
Not to mention that labs in Japan are cheap and competent but often refuse to process Kodak films because of reasons.
>>
>>3536158
I always cut them in strips of 6 because that's what my scanner film holder holds. it's easier and quicker to load it with with complete 6 frame strips rather than multiple smaller strips or single frames. I don't care if there are bad frames there, I just skip them or quick prescan for previsualization and move on the next frame. they're also easier to load on 6 frame strip sleeves.
and yes, I do keep all the negatives. after all, it's the master record, like a digital RAW file. it's the one I'm going to in case I need a better/different scan or prints.

technical reasons aside, I do keep all the photos I take, good or bad, because they make me reminisce of the moment I took them. that's the main reason why I got into photography.
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>>3536158
I cut up a lot of film. I try and throw away everything with obvious errors but I prefer not to throw away bad photos. I am more attached to bad slides than bad negs though since it is very unlikely I will ever look at a bad neg again.
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on kodak t-max

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>>3536295

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>>3536299

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>>3536302

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>>3536295
>>3536299
>>3536302
>>3536309
These need contrast.
>>
Can we please all split this together: https://www.nickcarverphotography.com/teaching/online_courses/manual_metering_film_photography/#courseoutline

Or should I just buy a spot meter and figure it out myself?
>>
>>3536330
>$300 to learn how to meter for film
>$199 to learn how to meter for film
For fuck's sake...

* Look at a characteristic curve.
* Figure out how many stops over/under middle gray your film can go.
* Measure the highlights and shadows of a scene using a spot meter. It can be the spot meter built into your camera if your camera has one.
* Based on your spot meter readings, choose the exposure that holds the full range, or the part of the range you want to keep if the full range exceeds your film.

There. Not hard. Shall I post a bitcoin address for the $199 payment?
>>
>>3536330
lmaoooo
i just can't fucking believe that some faggot npc subhuman have paid for this shit.
>>
>>3536341
Expanding on this, there are SLRs which will hold multiple spot meter readings on a viewfinder scale letting you see what the metered range is, and automatically calculating the exposure which will hold most of it (if you're in an AE mode).

The EOS 3 will do this and it's an awesome feature. I believe the T90 could to.

With a lot of scenes you don't even have to take the time to meter multiple points in the scene. I was recently on a mountain trip with my 5Ds (I know, it's digital, just hear me out) and wanted optimum exposures in potentially tricky lighting. Even with Canon digital you have plenty of shadow latitude, but you can't blow the highlights on any digital sensor. So I spot metered the brightest part of the scene that I wanted to hold and adjusted exposure to 2 and 2/3 stop under that reading since I was metering a highlight but the meter assumes middle gray. Done. Every shot was exposed to the right without clipping highlights.

Had I been shooting negative film I would have metered the shadows and...depending on the film...set exposure 2-4ev above that because neg film's latitude is all on the highlight side.

It's pretty simple really and you don't need to pay $199 to get a feel for it. Spend that money on film and developing instead.
>>
>>3536330
someone on r/analog posted asking if this was worth it and i commented saying how retarded it would be to pay that guy for this stuff

i was downvoted into oblivion.
>>
>>3536330
I like his youtube content, but I think this course is a waste.
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>>3536330
If you don't already have a spotmeter your money would be far better spent on a nice one that can do incident and reflected readings. I know people will also say you can use your phone but honestly if you get one and compare you'll notice how much more accurate a dedicated meter is when you actually start shooting.

There's enough free content on the web at that point to learn metering, both old school stuff and on people's websites. At the end of the day it's probably going to be similar to learning the zone system so you might as well start there.

I think spending the money on his stuff is kind of like giving him a nice donation for his content at least. He actually does nice youtube stuff. If you're rolling in it, go for it.



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