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File: RolleiRPX400.jpg (447 KB, 1000x1000)
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rollei film edition

old thread: >>3515622
All analog/film photography related questions and general discussion is to take place in this thread.
35mm, 120, medium format, large format, instant, polaroid, instax, C41, E6, B&W, developing, scanning, labs, darkroom etc.
Post photos as often as possible, we want to see that beautiful grainy goodness!

useful links:
http://istillshootfilm.org/beginners-guide-film-photography
https://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php
http://industrieplus.net/dxdatabase

>posting in /fgt/ doesn't make you gay, unless you shoot 120mm film
>>
File: IMG_8375-Pano-positive-1.jpg (1.11 MB, 1080x1350)
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mamiya 7, 65mm f4, portrra 160

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>>
>>3519197
Cool stuff how are you liking the Mamiya 7?
>>
>>3519229

i absolutely love it. i got it recently for a good deal in near mind condition and shot about 5 rolls on a road trip to LA and it’s been wonderful. the film advance lever is one of the best, smoothest feelings i’ve felt in my life.
>>
>>3519197
I have no clue why, but i like this shot, might just be the subject and the colours but im enjoying it.
If you've got any more send them through
>>
>>3519243

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>>
Is that Bris-anon still searching for colour 120 film? I have a bunch of Pro 400h and slide film if so
>>
first for mechanical/chemical operation being an unbeatable experience and people touting film as better than digital due to colours being fucking retarded
>>
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>>3519263
Not the same brisfag but I went to the Ekka on friday and shot some Tri-X and Ultramax. Will post pics when I've developed it all.
Am also going again on Tuesday to do a shoot with a model, I'm pretty nervous I've never done portraiture before besides drunk snapshits of my friends. (pic related)

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It's not exactly a giraffe fucking an elephant, but it'll do
>>
>>3519263
Hey I found someone on Facebook to sell me some but thanks anyway

>>3519312
I might go to the ekka Wednesday, we should have a meet up
>>
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Found this off a trail in New Mexico. Gonna go back and get some more shots

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>If it's not film, then it's not worth taking.
>>
>>3519549
Myself, of course.
>>
>>3519548
Dang look at that American Dad chin
>>
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2 dollar thrift store find, didn't catch my eye right away because the logo was worn off. Interested in seeing how it compares to the XA and L35AF, two other compacts I've been using recently

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>>
Is there a monobath for colour film?
>>
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>>3519654
Hot tips. Maybe i'm just clumsy but I left a fingerprint on the lens while opening it once. Turned all of my shots into a soap opera.

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>>
I've developed 17/22 C41 color rolls of 35mm film. Some were from 3 years ago and look to have developed ok since they were all kept cold the entire time. Im using 3 liters of chemicals for all 22 rolls
>>
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Minolta x700
ilford delta 400

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>>3519312
Oooh presto 400 you lucky fucker

You developing your stuff at home? I have a darkroom in my apartment complex if any of you bris friends wanna have a crack. Just gotta promise not to murder me
>>
>>3519529
Oooh this is a great scene, I feel like there's a lot of potential here. Bring some B&W next time you go
>>
x700, gold 200

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>>3519696
Definitely.
>>
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Found an old crumpled roll i completely forgot to scan a year ago, expired kodak Vericolor III

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>>
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>>3519754
lazy ass color correcting, but my god is it hard to get accurate colors with a fucked monitor

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>>
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>>3519755
damn, i didn't post the resized version

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>>3519756

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>>
Brisbane anons, who is going to the ekka Wednesday?
>>
I'm going to Thailand for 6 weeks.
I'm shooting a fuji gw690 and wondering what film to take

What would you do?
>>
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>>3519809
Negative, got better ways to spend my money and public holiday. Make sure you post your shots if you take some photos there though

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>>
>>3519810
>>3519814
That seems like the most painful possible camera to take, but anyway I guess it depends what you intend to shoot.

I'd probably bring mainly a very versatile colour film, like Fuji Pro 400h or Portra 400, as they can be used in just about any lighting situation and have no problems with being pushed 2+ stops if the moment calls for it.

If you intend on specific types of shooting then maybe also bring some slide or b&w that you're comfortable with.

You're gonna need a lot of film for 6 weeks, considering that a 690 gets only 8 shots a roll. Even 50 rolls would only give you 400 images, which is not a lot for 6 weeks (the last 3hr fashion shoot I did I shot 750 photos lol)
>>
>>3519815
I will, itll be my first time going there too

>>3519817
Yeah I'm probably just going to go with fuji 400h
>>
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>>3519182
How does one import film from Japan? Here in Aus the cheapest way to get film is to order from these dropship/import sites that get all their stuff from Japan and sell at a markup. Is there a way to order from there directly, or is it only for big orders?
I couldn't find anything, only articles about how to buy film and cameras inside Japan. It just doesn't feel right to pay $6.50 AUD for a roll of C200 when I know it's less than $3 in Japan
>>
What is the best film camera?
>>
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>>3519814
I shot mostly Provia 400X when I was there for 2 months and don't regret it at all. Having a box of slides from that trip is something else. However, color neg film would be a good move since now you can only get slow E6 film which would be somewhat limiting with that camera's lens.

If you have time between now and departure, try to find properly stored 220. Shooting 220 was a godsend for travelling and I was shooting plebtier 645. I stocked up on Portra 400VC and Fuji 160NS in 220 to supplement my 120 Provia 400X.

>>3519817
You comment on 8 shots per roll is definitely worth mentioning...but you can't compare this to doing a fashion shoot lol. I shot ~2000 frames in total during my 9 month backpacking trip.

>>3519846
Can you order from amazon.co.jp? If it's an Amazon Japan listing they ship to N. America. Maybe they ship to Aus too?
>>
>>3519857
>full manual mechanical slr
>cheapest
Nikomat/Nikkormat FT
>best
Nikon FM2N

>electronic slr (one mechanical speed if your batteries run out, either 1/90 or 1/250)
>cheapest
Nikon FE
>best
Nikon FA

>hybrid slr (electronic shutter with full range mechanical fallback if your batteries run out but expensive)
Nikon FM3A

>rangefinder
>cheap
Bessa or Canonet idk
>best
Leica

>6x6 slr
>cheap(er)
Bronica SQ-A
>best
Hasselblad

>6x6 tlr
mamiya c200/c300 range

>6x7
Mamiya RB/RZ 67
>>
>>3519860
Thanks for the help. But how about the canon a1. I have seen a lot of people praising it
>>
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>>3519860
Considering hardly anyone seems to buy them for studio/portrait work...I have no idea why everyone recs the RB/RZ series for 6x7. Bronica GS-1 is substantially smaller and better suited for any type of photography that involves carrying the camera around. A GS-1 kit with body, lens, back, and WLF weighs less than the RB67 body alone.

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>>
>>3519864
>I have seen a lot of people praising it
Hipsters have inflated canon slr and FD glass prices. The A1 is probably going to work just as well as any other slr with program mode, so if you can get it at a good price go for it. Although if I remember correctly the a1/ae1 cameras have a shutter that needs to be oiled from time to time. You can do it at home but it's just one of those things that kept me away from FD cameras
>>
>>3519886
Is 270$ a good price?
>>
>>3519888
Fuck no, you could get a fm2n for that money
Pay 100$ for A1 at the most
>>
>>3519866
I'm pretty sure it's just the wider lens selection and the fact that there's a larger used market for it. I stopped shooting 120, but I had the RB67 and the rotating back was a godsend. The WFL is pretty awkward for shooting in portrait orientation even on a tripod, and handheld it's borderline unusable. I use portrait orientation for landscapes and suburban topo snapshits quite often, so it's not necessarily just for actual portraits.
>>3519888
For body only, no. If it has a $200 lens attached to it, sure.
>>
>>3519888
LOL

Jesus Christ no. $75 max for an AE-1 with lens. You can get a god damn Canon F-1 with 50mm 1.4 for less than $200.
>>
>>3519891
It has a 50mm/1.4 and a 100mm/2.8 lenses and it comes with a 227T blitz
>>
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>>3519900
Still hell no. Do some research before you get ripped the fuck off.

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>>
>>3519900
No, it's way overpriced. Always look at ebay buy-it-now prices for comparison. And a bundle with multiple items should cost less than the sum of its parts.
>>
>>3519903
>>3519904
Thanks for being patient with me and helpful
>>
>>3519858
>amazon.co.jp
I just had a look, it's somehow more expensive than local e-stores. The only good deal I found was a 10 pack of fuji 100 for like 30% less than here. I might actually cop that out of desperation though
>>
hey mates, maybe you remember, in the last thread I told you that I bought a plustek 7300 scanner for my film. The thing finally arrived, but it is missing all the software CDs... Do you by any chance have a serial/keygen for Silverfast 8? Would be very grateful. Thanks a bunch!
>>
File: img495-1.jpg (774 KB, 1080x1260)
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PanF EI25, Rodinal 1+50
Mamiya RZ67, 75mm Shift-W

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>>3519990
also, just made my first scan with the demo version. Now I wonder about these small dots in my scans. Are these specs of dust, or is my scanner fucked?

Thanks again for all your help and time
>>
>>3519990
>silverfast

Vuescan is better, IMO
>>
>>3519993
Is that a slide or a negative?
>>
>>3519994
I will use whatever works, since I dont have a license. I will see if I can find a license for vuescan

>>3519995
it´s a negative (Kodak Gold 200, with preset, scanned at 7200dpi)
>>
How do you get such grain on portra 400?
Is it just pulling a few steps?
>>
>>3520000
by shitty digitizations techniques. that's obviously digital noise
>>
>>3519990
you can try going to ebay for a serial, sometimes clueless people post pics of the discs with the serial numbers in plain sight. however, it won't work with silvervast. it gets tied to the particular scanner unit serial number it gets installed and you have to deactivate it online before moving it to another computer. also, you need the CD/DVD to install it, even if you download the latest version from their website, the installer still asks for the disc to be present in the drive.
pic related is one I got from an ad of an epson scanner. it didn't work even though I tried installing it with the original silverfast disc from my plustek 8100. you can try it either way.

>>3519993
>small dots in my scans
seems like dirty stabilizer during development. do you have a scan or print of that negative frame? is it present there as well?
also, don't scan at 7200dpi. it does interpolation at that dpi. go for 3200 or 2400 dpi.
>>
>>3519990
Idk I just click don't register and it works, I forgot how I set it up. Maybe type in a random number and then try to get it to give you the "I don't want to register" option.
>>
>>3519990
((((pirate vuescan))))
>>
Hey guys, I have a question about Fomapan 100. I have one packet of Atomal 49 left. Normally, I dev everything in Atomal, but I don't think I'll have enough film to dev with it before the mixed solution expires (which happens quite quickly because my apartment is only marginally cooler than outside, and it's summer). I get pretty decent results with stand dev, though. Should I wait? Can anyone chime in here on the difference? Is it a broad gap in quality, on 135?
>>
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Anyone have any recommendations for a good budget enlarger?
Specifically one that can accept 6.5x9 glass plate negatives?

I'm kinda looking at the Paterson universal enlarger, but I can't find any reviews of it, and it's only got a 6x6 film carrier, so I'd have to make my own 6.5x9 glass plate carrier

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>>3520236
It's essentially whatever you an find in your area. You're best of searching local classifieds (gumtree, craigslist or whatever your local equivalent is) and then looking there.

In terms of enlarging something of that size and format, it may be a bit tough to find something. There are many many enlargers capable of handling *negatives* but a glass plate is a different story all together. I'd suggest you'd need to modify or at least remove the traditional negative carrier to make it work. Any enlarger with a light source capable of dealing with 6x9 prints would be suitable. Make sure you get a 80mm+ enlarging lens for full negative coverage

As with cameras, it's really the lens that's important. Look for a multiformat enlarger (e.g. capable of dealing with 35mm + medium format) as the light source will be suitable for that size negative. If you can find a 4x5 enlarger then even better

I've had luck making posts looking for stuff rather than waiting for people to list things, as many people will have old darkroom equipment rotting away in their garages.

Lastly, if in the slim chance you're in Brisbane Australia, hit me up! I have a darkroom set up with a Durst M850 enlarger which would have no problem with that.
>>
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>>3520244
Thanks for the advice, I figured as much.
I appreciate the offer, but it seems I have the misfortune of living on nearly completely the opposite side of the globe from you.

You know, how hard would it be to build a enlarger?
I was going to be modifying it anyways by changing the light for a UV light so I can do cyanotype prints.
>>
Thoughts?

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>>
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How not to run an online retail business:

I understand being frustrated when people are asking for free shit/lower prices on a slow selling product that isn't even available on the domestic market, but it doesn't warrant an autistic fit of rage, and threatening to doxx your customers is peak cunt behaviour.
>>
>>3520354
Haha wtf are these guys doing
>>
>>3520252
>>3520249
>>3520244
Is it just my perception or is wet printing getting more common on /fgt/? I've been printing for two years now and the results are still dank as fuck, even on matte RC fomaspeed papers. Can't seem to get fiber prints washed to a point where they don't turn yellow in three months, though; this Kaiser print washer isn't doing well for prints that're just sort of left to sit in there.

But dang, guess I'll be getting through some of my printing backlog tonight.
>>
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>>3520354
i believe the aussie term for that place would be:
a buncha dopey cunts
>>
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I'm visiting Toronto and heading to Downtown Camera to buy some film. Hyped as fuck to get some smogsnaps bois.
>>
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>>3519866
I love my GS-1. I agree with the other anon about the RZ having the wider lens selection and all that but GS was much much cheaper for a similar kit and being lighter lets me take it hiking without totally breaking my back.

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>>3520375
I think maybe? I also started printing ~2 years ago and back then when I asked for recommendations on paper and stuff, nobody would really reply with anything except maybe ”I heard Ilford is good but idk”.

The Foma papers have become my staple for work prints actually, I find it really decent. Don’t really see a reason to spend more on Ilford RC stuff except for the fact that the Foma curls when drying.

Still haven’t managed to figure out a way to put up a home darkroom but maybe one of these days I’ll have the energy to figure it out.
>>
So I have a Praktica and It takes okay photos (I guess) but I was thinking, would Canon AE-1 be any better? One thing it'd have going for it is a smaller form factor.
>>
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>>3520461
I'll post some photos I'm proud of. Please no bully.

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>>3520354
This can result in some serious legal ramifications
>>
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>>3520464

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>>3520467

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>>3520468

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>>3519990
>>3519993
It's dust on your negatives.
Leave your email and I I'll send you the serial of Silverfast 8 SE Plus I got with my 8100 scanner, when I get home tomorrow. Not sure it'll work though cause Silverfast are quite judaic with their pricing and licensing, the software is tied to the scanner. But since it's the same brand and same class of scanner in general, it's worth giving it a try, it might work.
>>
>>3520461
What model is your Praktica? I'd rather look at acquiring additional lenses than jumping into another camera system.
The Canon AE-1 is overpriced these days anyway. Everyone recommends it because everyone else recommends it. No one remembers that it used to be recommended simply because it was a popular camera and therefore second hand units were cheap as. For the FD system a F-1 or A-1 would be better buys as better featured cameras, the A-1 is usually cheaper than AE-1 too!
>>
>>3520461
You probably won't notice any difference. You make the difference, not the camera. However, there is something to be said about having a camera that motivates you to shoot and get better.

Finally got myself a film fridge, boys. Gunna celebrate by buying a tub of ice cream because of al the god damn freezer space I have now.
>>
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>>3520473
>>3520202

Thanks for your help! I am using Vuescan now, but I think I really need to learn a lot about color etc. I´m havin gtrouble to get the correct tones etc. I tried Vuescan and adjusted the sliders, but the scan turns out differntly than the preview.

Next try was Colorperfect plugin for photoshop, which worked fine at first, but did not give consistent results. I suspect the negative scans were not good enough.

I tried scanning the same frame three times without changing ANY settings, and got three different color tones... Unless I am too stupid to use this thing, I think it might be broken.


>>3520088

Thanks mate for the number, but it didnt work. Anyway, I´m using Vuescan now, so it is OK.

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>>3520536
>scan as positive
>pirate Negativelabpro
>open positive scan in Lightroom
>flip with NLP
You can pirate any version of NLP and upgrade it via the official website. Just download the files, replace the old ones and it still works once you set it up.
>>3520354
What a faggot lol. I'm glad I only bought film from this place once. Decisivemoment is cheaper anyway and they also sell chemicals and sleeves so I can get all of them in the same order.
>>
is the olympus mju I/infinity stylus, the 35mm f3.5 one, any good? local guy selling one for $25.
how much "weatherproof" is it actually? can I use it to take pics under a light rain? not saying getting it soaked wet, but some exposure to rain for a quick snap.
>>
>>3520467
>>3520468
I really like these two anon, good job.
>>
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>Mamiya C3 arrived in mail today
>Everything works, shutter still runs on time
BUT
>Aperture lever is jammed, stuck at F2.8

How do I fix the aperture lever?
I can't find any repair documentation specific to that issue, other than one other guy saying he's had the same issue.
>>
OM1 got stuck open at 1 second shutter, burnt a few shots while trying to close it

feels bad men
>>
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question here guys.
if I shoot a roll of tmax p3200 at box speed, when I send it out do I need to tell them to push it 2 stops?

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>>3520670
No

Pic unrelated, Ilford HP5
>>
>>3520504
Praktica MTL-5. I really like it, it's in good condition (I think?). It also allowed me to take some pictures I like, see above. I guess I might get some lenses although I have absolutely no idea. I bought this, learned about focus, shutter speed, aperture, ISO and just started shooting trial and error.
>>
>>3520560
Thanks anon.
>>
>>3520670
Well, if you shoot it at its ISO 800 box speed, then no pushing should be necessary. But then, I'd really expect the lab to ask what ISO you shot the film in, since it's a bit confusing otherwise. I believe it's DX coded to ISO 3200.
>>
>>3520670
Stop cucking yourself by getting your black and white film deved at the lab you're missing out on important creative process they're only useful for colour negative and slide film as it's a standard process. The performance/character of black and white film really depends on what film stock/developer combo you use. Where as the lab always uses the same process rendering every ones photos the same.
And no you don't need to ask them to push it if you shot it at 3200.

>>3520732
>if you shoot it at its ISO 800 box speed, then no pushing should be necessary.
No pushing but it needs to be pulled 2 stops if shot at 800, p3200 look shits overexposed 2 stops.
>>
>>3520732
I thought it was 1600 film...
>>
>>3520539
Holy shit my dude, the tip with NLP is really good. The plugin works like a charm. Thanks again
>>
>>3520747
No worries anon. Just make sure you upgrade it to the latest version, the autoexposure and autocolor are way better than in the version you most likely torrented.
>>
I've read that the original orthochromatic films were sensitive only to blue and green light.

Can this be simulated with digital camera (or a scanned color film) by mixing only the blue and green channels to create a grayscale image (ignoring the red)?

Or was there more to it than that?
>>
>>3520732
>its ISO 800 box speed
Its box speed is 3200, even if its ISO is 800. It’s not a normal ISO800 film. At that speed you’ll get very low contrast and grey muddiness all over.
There’s a reason its box speed is 3200. Cause even when shot and devved at 3200 it looks more normal in contrast than shot and devved at 800.
Same goes for Delta 3200.

Anyway, to answer the other guys’ question:
The DX coding is for 3200, the camera will read it as 3200 (if it can read DX), and if you drop it off at any lab without saying anything they’ll dev it at 3200.
>>
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I was gonna post these in one of those car threads but i thought youd like them more

Film was Fuji Super HGV 100

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>>3520779

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>>3520780

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>>3520781

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>>3520782

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I wanted to show a friend of me how an analog camera works and opened the back. I didn't open it complelty only like 15 degrees and then saw there was a film in it that I forgot about. Immediately closed it. Was open for maybe 1-2sec but not completely only a small angle.

Am I fucked? Are my 10 frames probably rip?
>>
>>3520787
A bit hard to tell, youre just gonna have to develop it and find out
>>
>>3520787
Well if you think about it, normally exposure time is a fraction of a second.

Most likely you lost your current frames, you might be lucky with the other ones.

Just develop and see
>>
>>3520787
go and develop it, you may be suprised with the results, some people do that on purpose and it looks nivel
>>
>>3520556
It’s not weatherproof at all, but getting some raindrops on it shouldn’t kill it. It’s pretty good and that price isn’t too bad. Has some downsides like 1/15 as the slowest shutter speed and AF that isn’t as good as some more modern compacts. When it shoots wide open the corners are quite mushy too. Other than that, I like the ergonomics and how the lens renders.
>>
>>3520787
It usually means you lose around 4-6 images. The rest is protected by the film wrapping around itself on the spool.
>>
Hey, europeople. is there a place with good prices for cameras and lenses online? I know ebay but the prices are bella inflated
>>
>>3519846
Hit me up on discord @kolin#3529. Me and my mate, who lives in japan export watches (and have started with cam gear recently) from there. We might be able to help.
>>
>>3520863
Shops with dedicated websites aren't cheap either.
I've used Shphoto.de and Kamerastore.com, they are fine. Kamerastore used to be kinda bad about checking the condition of shutters and actual functionality of the camera bodies they sell, but they've improved somewhat since.
>>
>>3520556
It's a not-shit compact camera. If it works for like five rolls, it'll have been worth $25. (i.e. counting it as a superior substitute for five disposables, but with a battery cost.)

To contrast, my Minolta Riva Mini has certainly got a nice lens, but otherwise it's kinda dogshit. The shutter release needs to be pressed from a particular angle to make contact, the finder is tiny and dark (like Zorki 1 rangefinder dark), and the default flash mode it starts up in has it flash a red light for three seconds before actually doing anything. It also turns itself off automatically after like five minutes of no input. Probably the Oly won't do that since the on/off switch is the front lid.
>>
Portra 400 or 160? I'm putting in a film order and trying to decide. 160 is cheaper, but I'd also like a 400-speed film
>>
hey guys
recently got slight light leaks on my minolta srt100x where the same side (meaning top edge) of certain photos is a few stops overexposed compared to the other 90% of the picture

so i ordered some selfadhesive foam to replace the seals and came across this picture on the placement of the seals. my question is where the 5th seal on the picture (the one above the mirror damper) is located and whether it is really necessary to replace it, since most guides i found dont even mention it

cheers

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>>3520747
Where did you get nlp? Having trouble finding
>>
>>3520585
Welp, Figured it out.
Evidence points to the oil on the aperture blades having seized.
I'm not confident enough in my skills to take apart that delicate clockwork magic, so I just ordered another lens.
Maybe I'll fix it some time later.
>>
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Can't decide what negative film i should stock up
35mm wise i have nothing left except some 24 exp superia and some 36 vistas

i think that if i'd go CN it would be colorplus 200
and when it comes to BW film...
>kentmere 400 4€
>fomapan 200 4,10€
>ilford pan 400 4,20€
>apx 100/400 4,20€
>ilford hp5 / fp4 5,80€


are the kentmeres actually that good ? i shot one like last year
and the grain was too hard and big...but iam sure it'd also be my mistake indeed...

what BW film would you go from this list ?
let's say i have 100€ to throw out for film

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>>3521005
btw
fomapan200 Bulkfilm 30,5 meter costs 42,20€
i have a loader....just thinking that fomapan is by far not
good as hp5+ though but it's also not a bad film....
i think it's gonna be the foma
>>
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I went to a zoo... again.

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>>3521010
nice shot anon, what film is this and which tool did you use to capture ?
>>
>>3521012
FP4+
Leica M4-P Biogon 35/2
>>
>>3521013
>biogon
i like you anon !
>>
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>>3521005
I buy bulk Portra 400 and use that for all colour stuff. Overexpose 1-2 stops in normal usage, but also easily push to 1600 if the situation calls for it.

For black and white, you gotta find what you like. I shot only Tri-X for years but started using only HP5 this year as I prefer it. The Kentmere films are okay, but I find they're a little flimsy and scratch somewhat easily. Fomapan 100 is pretty okay, the 200 and 400 are absolute shit.

At the end of the day, for the most part you get what you pay for. I'm happy to spend $1-2 more a roll to get a better quality film.

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>>3521023
where do you get bulk portra though ?
just checked ebay and there are none.
>>
>>3521026
I just buy the 5 packs from B&H and import them to Australia. Generally the lowest unit price by far
>>
>>3520000
Looks like shit. Added in post?
>>
>>3520000

That's VSCO 'Portra' 400 with the Grain++ preset for sure.
>>
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>>3520953
just pulled out my SRT102 to check it but I don't see any foam where the red line is pointing, between the damper and mount ring. that space is quite tight with the lens locking latch there... however, I sent it to service a few years ago and had all the old decaying foam around the finder removed and replaced. it probably got removed then... don't have light leaking issues.
here's the service manual diagram for that part. seems to be the foam piece at the top of the mirror box front frame.
>>
>>3521009
is this in maine?
>>
>>3521031
Yeah, looks like HSV noise.
>>
I have been trying to pirate vuescan for two days now with no luck.

When I enter the provided serials it says ok, but still adds watermarks to my scans. and otherwise it won't recognize my v600 at all. Anyone know how to fix this?
>>
>>3521113
https://mega.nz/c547963e-014f-4a78-9307-b762a5ac3a8e
>>
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>>3521023
Nigga you aren't even saving any money. Pretty much nothing beats decisivemoment in price if you're aus. I think walkens sells C200 for 50 cents cheaper than them, but that's the only cheaper thing I've found. And I'm a top jew who always autistically compares prices and buys bulk to pay as little as possible for shipping.
>>
>>3521098
no
>>
>>3521038
alright thanks for confirming that, couldnt make out any spot to put it either

apart from that, when i checked whether the mirror damper was deformed i shined a flashlight through the viewfinder while having the mirror up in bulb mode.

lo and behold light is coming through the mirror damper in front since it's fucked. however a little light also shines around the mirror on the left and right as well as the back (shutter) side. i was wondering whether that's ok or the seals on the prism should make contact with the mirror to seal it, since they dont do that in my case
>>
i saw this ricoh 500g when shopping for cameras and this guy at the store said it's great for beginners. is he right /p/?
>>
>>3520903
Well the price difference where I live is less than $2 so I usually just get 400 because it's a more versatile speed. Portra 160 on the other hand is sharper and finer grained, so if there's a lot of light it's pretty good.
>>
>>3521136
Welp you're right - I always do big ass B&H orders with my friends so I haven't done a price comparison in a long time. Thanks for that
>>
>>3521189
yes
>>
>>3521200
I haven't tested all order sizes so it's possible that you save a bit if you get a specific amount like let's say 12 5packs, but I just can't be fucked checking. I'm pretty sure it's always more or less the same though, since B&H shipping goes up the more stuff you buy, and decisivemoment has flat $7.50 shipping.
>>
>>3521117
Thank you! The link only directs me to their frontpage, even though I am signed in. Am I just some sort of idiot or?
>>
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>>3519197
Damn that's sharp. I'm really itching to get back into medium format.

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I've been playing around with night photography lately, but it's had to get the focus right with my f100. These are Kodak Prom Image 100, which i'm digging a lot, especially as cheap as it is.

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also starting to fuck around with double exposures with moderately interesting results.

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>>3521164
no problem m8. also checked my SRT101, which is all stock, and I don't see any foam in that place either.
>i was wondering whether that's ok or the seals on the prism should make contact with the mirror to seal it, since they dont do that in my case
light leaking throught the prism area is normal. that's why the straps have a finder cover, and manuals recommend covering it for bulb or self-timer exposures when your head won't be blocking it.
shined the cellphone led flashlight throught the finders and get some light shining on both left and right sides, and a little less noticeable on front and back, on both the 101 and 102. the foam in that area doesn't seem as dense as the light sealing foam so I don't think it's supposed to seal against light there.
>>
>>3521353
alright then thanks, ordered some foam, and lets see if it fixes it. cheers
>>
For my first film camera, should I get one with interchangeable lens or without. I want to have control over the shutter speed and the aperture as well
>>
>>3521331
pretty nice scan for 35mm is that a lab scan?
I have an F100 and love it. Do you meter these in-camera or use an external meter?
>>
>>3521331
would be easier with a manual slr
>>
>>3521410
Yeah, my local lab does good work. I metered in camera for the overall scene, and over shot by one stop. When the exposure is right, this film produces really nice, saturated colors at night.
>>
>>3521432
My local lab seems to do good work too, but it would cost me about $15 per roll over the price of processing to get 2000x3000 scans. Its so frustrating, I want to get the most out of 35mm but scanning seems so inaccessible. I have a V550 and am never satisfied. I am looking into DSLR scanning but I only own analog cameras at this point in time.

I've been fantasizing about getting my friends together and pooling our money for a lab-quality Noritsu or something similar. Maybe could scan rolls for local people to make the money back
>>
>>3521117
can confirm what this anon says
>>3521244
>>3521244
help him anon
>>
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My first developed film in over two years. Feels good. This was a Nikon F2 with Ektar 100 using a 50mm f/1.4 lens

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>>3521445

What are you looking to get out of your scans though? I >>3521461 and I used a v600, which has the same DPI of 6400. I could easily make a 10" x 18" print and it looks fine on my 32in 2k monitor with no edits after the scanned image is made. I scan and develop at home and it cost me about $3/roll for that.
>>
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>>3521483

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>>3521484
messing around with the canon autoboy

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>>3521485

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>>
What machine are people supposed to buy for at home film scanning?

I looked up some tests on filmscanner.info and they all look like complete fucking shit pretty much. The only nice looking ones are from early 2000s made by Nikon but they're all discontinued and the new and available ones are all trash. Disgusting amounts of chromatic abberation is visible in all the test images. It's a joke.. Like what the hell is even happening here?

I don't feel comfortable dropping ~$3000 on a machine that's not going to be covered by any warranty but a used Nikon seems like the only option for quality high res scans.

Is this why people are shooting their film with their DSLRs these days? Because there's no good machines for them to buy? I'm confused.
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>>3521445
Just get a Coolscan or a Canonscan for $150 or so on ebay. They're dedicated and produce great results. The only issue is that they're slow as shit and make scanning entire rolls a huge task.

This is a 100% crop of a 4000dpi scan I made the other week with a Canoscan FS4000
>>
>>3521497
>>3521494
>>3521492
>>3521491
>>3521489
>>3521487
>>3521486

Comfy
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Woop woop just received new film for my trip to the south of Europe. Going to be fun!

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>>3521544
Nice stash
>>
>>3521405
Get a SLR for your first film camera. Most of them have manual controls. A Cosina, Konica, Yashica, or some such that can be had for 40€ with lens, max speed 1/1000s, and meter runs on regular (non-mercury) cells.

>>3521509
Get a decent flatbed for no more than 200€. It'll be fine until you start getting good negatives. I've been happy with my CanoScan 9000F Mk2 these past five years; it doesn't really miss any detail on the negative that's there in a print (enlarged w/ a Leitz Focotar 40mm f/2.8, so presumably fairly high-fi). It might be different on 100 ISO T-grain films shot with an aspherical lens, but I don't have many of those negatives anyway.

>>3521544
20 rolls of PanF+ seems ambitious. Why not half of those in Delta 100 or FP4+ instead?
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>>3521556
Don't dig tabular grain films. I've done a fair bit with fp4, so I wanted to switch things up. Will probably do 5 rolls at ei25 at 1:25, 5 at ei25 1:50, 5 at ei50 at 1:25, and the last 5 at ei50 at 1:50. Hp5 will be in ID11 1:0 with 500ml of developer per roll.

Busy working on building a vertical print processor. Here is my first test build.

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Can't remember the camera but something was obviously fucked.

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>>
Speaking of Rollei, anyone shot much of the Retro films? Always wanted to try them but end up going with old staples anyway. Shot ~30 rolls of RPX400 though and was pretty happy with it.
>>
>>3520970
I found it on a german site, it’s a forum with links to file hosters.

boerse.to

you need to sign up with email and stuff, but it will work nonetheless.
>>
>>3520970
There is a torrent on rutracker.
The hash is: 59E548D25E84F56E96EDEE9A7525C4696BC6311A
>>
>>3521005
>>3521007
Since you have a loader, I’d just get 30m of Hp5 and call it a day. It’s what I do too. Kentmere is pretty ok too, shot about 20 rolls of it. It’s kind of like Hp5 but just slightly worse, ie. a little less latitude, a little uglier grain and so on. Hp5 is great though and you can easily push it if needed. Pulling probably works too but I never do it, I just use a slower film if I need to.

Recently due to the price increase I decided to try Foma and got 30m of the 200. Not yet sure what I think of it, it’s a weird film and behaves differently than other bw stocks I’ve shot. Seems to be very picky about developer too, I usually use HC110 but go with Xtol/Foma Excel for this one. Note that it isn’t quite 200 speed actually, seems to be a little slower, but has enough latitude to shoot at 200 with DX sensing compacts. You just lose some shadows.

>>3521023
Definitely wouldn’t say the 200 is shit, it’s just has a different character. To me it seems to have a lot of range in the graya but the shadows fall off really quickly and suddenly. Maybe it’s the combination of cubic and t-grain, not sure. Still need to try making prints from it in the darkroom.

Heard the 400 is shit though, kind of still want to try it because it’s cheap as fuck.
>>
>>3521602
Fomapan 400 is a good film for your Zorki. I've had some very printable negatives with it, developed in HC-110, despite metering by seat-of-pants indoors during a sunny day.
>>
>>3521509
The only viable options on a budget are the Plusteks starting around 300$, or if you can stretch your budget a bit, the Reflectas, starting around 400$.
Look up their reviews on that site, they’re quite detailed.
If you’re on a budget and want the best bang for your buck, check the resolution part of the review. And don’t pay too much attention to the “advertised resolution”. Filmscannerinfo traditionally shittalks a bit scanners that have much lower real resolution than the advertised one. But beware, that a scanner that advertises 4000dpi and achieves 3700dpi real, will get a glowing paragraph on the review, while one that advertises 7200 and achieves 3800 will be shittalked, even though it achieves higher resolution than the previous scanner, at the expense of file size and pick possibly scan times.

So if you care about best resolution for the money, just look at the numbers and not the words that much. Secondarily look at scan times.
And thirdly, If you shoot lots of slides, look at the tested DR (and make note it’s an exponential scale, so a small difference in numbers can be big in practice, kinda like the Richter scale for earthquakes).

Off the top of my head, the cheapest scanner with the highest resolution Ian the non-infrared Plusteks, current model is I think the 8100, at 3800dpi.
The highest resolving one is the Reflecta Pro10T at a bit over 4000dpi, and the fastest omen (that can scan full uncut rolls) with still a very good resolution isn’t the Reflecta Pro 10M (if I remember the models right), at around 3700dpi.
Check those out, check the prices locally (they are made in Germany so US prices couldn’t be fucked up), and then you decide.

Lastly, having a version of Silverfast included is a huge bonus, cause they have the best profiles for negative inversion. This software is not the only one, but barring the shitty UI and random bugs, it’s the best and most expensive + hardest to crack , so it so nice to have it included.
>>
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is a hasselblad a realistic camera to backpack around south east asia with? or should i just go with a fuji point and shoot?

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>>3521009
I love zoos
>>
>>3521684
F A T
A
T
>>
>>3521556
>Get a decent flatbed for no more than 200€.
I have a flatbed and am unsatisfied. All wet mount vs dry mount vs improved holders comparisons online are also uninteresting.

Flatbeds are just blurry.

>>3521661
Yeah I already looked at all of those models.
Compared to the old Nikons they all have crazy chromatic abberation and lack a lot of true sharpness. It's like the new machines have better sensors but the optics are shitty.
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portra 160

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>>3521677
Hasselblads are plenty portable. I did a hike through the UK last month with a Mamiya RZ, less than perfect but it works.That Fuji looks like a very comfy travel cam.
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ektar 100, on 120

dslr scanned w/ NLP

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>>
dumb question
how were negatives used for old analog prints? Or, even, were they ever?
How would they get rid of the brown stuff and invert the colors?
>>
I take a film camera with me everywhere, most often my OM1. Do people come up to you ask about your camera too? When I tell people that my camera doesn't have a screen because it shoots film their next comment is "hmm, must be super old then, is it close to 100 years old?". Do people under 25 not know what film is? What do they think was used to take pictures 30 years ago, DSLRs? Why do people ask "is the resolution is good"? I'm just so dumbfounded by retards who know nothing about the past.
>>
>>3521791
Color enlargers allow you to adjust the tint of the light to compensate, and the print paper inverts the image again, just as film does.
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I just bought a Canon 7 on ebay (Pic related) and was wondering whats a good lens i could grab for it? I was thinking about just a good ol' 50mm Russian lens because they're cheap and i just blew all my money on a camera. Additionally, I've noticed on some rangefinders that the viewfinders are tinted blue to varying degrees, is this intentional? is it an age thing? and if so can it be reversed?
Cheers.
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>>3521835
>whats a good lens i could grab for it?
Canon made some excellent glass. Like the 50mm f/1.4 or the the 35mm f/2. The 50mm f/1.8 is a bit cheaper and still good.

>I've noticed on some rangefinders that the viewfinders are tinted blue to varying degrees, is this intentional?
That's the anti-reflective coating they used back then. It's also used in lenses. Don't worry about it.
>>
>>3521836
Alright sweet, I'll look into them. And thanks a lot
>>
>>3521835
I can vouch for the 35mm f/2 it's small and sharp.
If you want something more modern voigtlander has some screw mount lenses available
>>
>>3521677
Depends. I traveled all around Japan with a Pentax 6x7 and a couple of 35mm cameras and it was doable. Left the Pentax at the hotel a bunch too though. If I had to carry it everywhere every day I’d probably not take it. The Hassy is a bit lighter though and that can make a difference in the long run.
>>
>>3521677
Fuji. You can sling it over your shoulder while you rip around on your motorbike. Dealing with camera bags while traveling is a PITA and you'll miss a lot of shots if you constantly have to unpack your camera.
>>
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>>3521835
I have the canon 50 f1.8 for my canon p. Actually pretty nice and smol.

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Don't mind me, I'm just airing out my FD glass.

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>>3521963
I got the 2/135 FDn so I could take close-ups of generic butterflies.

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>>3521965
Also landscapes sometimes with the best possible film for the job, the Superia Xtra 400.

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>>3521967

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>>3521968
Had to swap to a nifty fifty because my noodle arms got tired.

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>>3521969
This goes well with my second hobby of watching things I can never afford like boats and a lakeside view. Also last one of the set.

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>>3520783
These look really clean what did you shoot them on?
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>>3521984

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>>3521986

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>>
Su/p/ guys

Sorry if this doesn’t fit the thread, but I think it’s film related.

This is my Dads old sears KSX-P

I used to mess with it like 10 years ago and it has been sitting since. I’ve since been using Canon SL2 and was just curious if you guys thought it was worth taking to someone to get it fixed up and back in action.

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>>3521994
Depends on what the problem with it is. That's a rebadged Ricoh KR-10, you can find ones in good condition on Ebay for 50 bucks. If it isn't just changing light seals then chances are repairing isn't worth it if it doesn't have some special emotional value.
>>
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>>3519197
>needing a mamiya 7 for this
>>3519340
just why
>>3519529
also why
>>3519691
1 year before art school portfolio tier
>>3519716
cabbage
>>3519756
>>3519757
snap shit gay border /r/analog tier
>>3519858
actually good based slide master of the east
>>3519991
>>3519993
y a w n
>>3520378
why even shoot film tier
>>3520467
semi decent
>>3520468
>>3520469
iphone 4 family vacation tier
>>3520716
so fucking edgy
>>3520779
>>3520780
>>3520781
>>3520782
>>3520783
Can't even bother
>>3521010
decent
>>3521270
>>3521273
>>3521328
fucking just hang it up
>>3521331
decent
>>3521334
sew kewl xD tier
>>3521483
>>3521484
>>3521485
>>3521486
>>3521487
>>3521489
>>3521491
>>3521492
>>3521494
>>3521497
utter trash, learn how to orient your shit fgt
>>3521513
early 2009 IG tier with lofi filter
>>3521561
into the bin it goes
>>3521718
>>3521720
>>3521721
y a w n
>>3521722
an attempt was there
>>3521967
>>3521968
>>3521969
>>3521971
iphone 4 family vacation tier

Why even shoot film if this is what you are churning out, you're 'art' means nothing to salvage this.

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>>3522011
thanks for feedback

now I have a question for you all
WHO WOULD WIN

>160 portras

or...

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>>3522030
>50 velvia bois

?

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>>3522032
>>3522030
Velvia looks a lot better IMO
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>>3521602
>>3521618
i allready ordered 30,5m foma 100. i kinda dig slow film lately and my stand dev is hc-110
will dev some and if i don't like the results i will go as you adviced, thx though
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>>3522032
>>3522030
they both are okey but i guess 50 velvias beat 160 portras
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>>3522030
>>3522032

why does it matter when the image / scene in question is massive snapshit? they both look terrible
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>>3521824
thanks
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>>3522053
Honestly almost any 100 speed film is probably fine. I shot a bunch of Shanghai Gp3 and got decent prints out of it, and it’s supposed to be trash.

Curious why you would stand develop with HC110? I use it as my main developer but always use dil B, E or H depending on the film, never seen a reason to try stand developing with it. Don’t you get bromide drag easily?
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This is a pic from my first shoot with film on a Nikon f-601 using 14 year old film and ye I am not great at taking photos
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OH NO NO NO
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>>3522124
RIP lcd
what camera? maybe get a broken one and swap it.
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>>3520670
You could mention it's shot at box speed i.e. 3200 iso, just to be perfectly clear. I'm interested in pushing it further to 6400 or 12800, becaues it honestly holds up pretty well at box speed.

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What programs do you guys use to scan your negs? Ive got an epson v500 and use epson scan and the images always have really harsh and flat compared to the lab, obviously the home scans are gonna be worse than a pro lab but my scans are horrendous.
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>>3522184
vuescan
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>>3522124
F90X. Heard good things about the F100, but this one bears some sentimental value.
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I've read that a lot of classic analog equipment was stopped being produced because the raw materials were banned being used in such manufacturing or because of a lack of the materials needed. Anyone know what exactly and why there hasn't been made any modern replacements?
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>>3522224
>F90X
they go for cheap in the used market and, quite possibly, the F90 has also the same part too. you can get a dead one and transplant the LCD panel.

>>3522289
mostly emulsions used to coat the films. some are dead because alternatives are being made, like kodachome. some got discontinued to be later reintroduced when they figured out a better way to do it, with alternative raw materials and processes and whatnot, like fuji across, that's coming back as across II.
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>>3522289
Yeah, but that's true of all electronics. The specific parts in a bill-of-materials (BOM) disappear from the market and the design becomes unmanufacturable until revised. At some point there's no longer a business case for producing a revision, so the model is discontinued.

The same goes for effectively all cases of "why don't they make 'em like they used to". They can't; the components aren't available anymore.
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>>3522293
>>3522299
shit man I just want someone to make a new XPan or 6x17 that's not retardedly expensive
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>>3522289
Some were banned and never really replaced, formaldehyde for instance. We never got a really good replacement for it in development. The leaded glasses are also a big one. For lenses where it wasn't worth changing to a different glass type we lost those.
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>>3520903
>>3521196
I went ahead and ordered the 400 for versatility. The other films I got are 100 and 200, so I'll have a nice range, and I can always shoot the Portra at 200 anyway
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Just picked up a scrapped 20x16 print processor. A bit of soldering and parts and she's a goer. I've put in a 4x6 print for scale.

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>>3522440
>print processor
what's a print processor? is it like an alternative to tray developing prints?
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Did some RA-4 color wet prints today. (sorry no pics, I left the wet prints at the club)

Turned out a lot better than I thought it would. The most annoying part is the white balance I guess, but that honestly wasn't that much worse than adjusting contrast with multigrade paper. It's also a bit less subjective, which helps.
What was nice was that once I set up the white balance and exposure for one shot, all the others I did from the same film turned out good on the first try.
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>>3522476
Sure is. Instead of needing space for your trays you can do it all in the space of a single tray. Plus you can always keep it full of chems, as it has floating lids your chems will keep for about a month, and if you replenish it's pretty much indefinite. Plus it has a built in heater so you can develop in colour, or keep your chems warm because you bought some ilford galerie rather than paying for your heating.

I'm actually on building my own 20x24 processor and washer, but seeing as this unit cost less than than buying the acrylic it was a no brainer.
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>>3522488
That's awesome. Share some scans or pics when you can; it would be great so see. How did you go about colour balancing?
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>>3522524
>Share some scans or pics when you can
will do

>How did you go about colour balancing?
I used a kodak viwing filter kit and mostly followed instruction. Say your print has a pinkish tint, then you use the cyan printing kit and try to pick the filter it looks most most neutral in. Rinse and repeat.

I used a Cibachrome kit I ordered from ebay for the print filters. Cost about 10€.
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>>3522517
Does this make fixer smell less?
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>>3522545
Yes, but its normally the stop that smells. If your fix smells then it's about to be or is toast.
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>>3522528
That's pretty nifty. I look forward to seeing the pictures in the new thread. Where about in Europe are you based?
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>>3522517
awesome. didn't know about print processors. seems like a more efficient way of doing prints.
I'm gonna go search for a site with pics or a video on youtube as I quite don't understand how it works.
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>>3522011
peak autism right here



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