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TLR edition

old thread: >>3508439
All analog/film photography related questions and general discussion is to take place in this thread.
35mm, 120, medium format, large format, instant, polaroid, instax, C41, E6, B&W, developing, scanning, labs, darkroom etc.
Post photos as often as possible, we want to see that beautiful grainy goodness!

useful links:
http://istillshootfilm.org/beginners-guide-film-photography
https://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php

>posting in /fgt/ doesn't make you gay, unless you shoot SLRs
>>
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Got my first 4x5 slides scanned in, the amount of detail is wonderful. Going to take a lot to get me back to 120 now.

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>>
>>3515622
I want to get a real 120 TLR, I as thinking of a Mamiya C330.

Which one would be recommended, original, F or S?
>>
>>3515674
Keep in mind that Mamiya TLRs are a lot larger and heavier than your average Rolleiflex or Yashica-Mat. Make sure to hold it in your hands before getting one.

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>>3515622
Recently got a microcord but haven't developed any of the film yet
>>
>>3515674
>>3515676
IMO if you aren't taking advantage of the interchangeable lenses there's no point to having a Mamiya C. If you need different focal lengths though it's a great system.
>>
>>3515622
Thanks for bumping anon I was too shitfaced to do so myself.

Speaking of TLRs I found a mint Yashica Mat 124g, a box camera and a Kodak 60 folder for $80 aud on Gumtree. Asked the dude if he could post them as I live over the other side of the country but he refused on the bases of "If you want them that badly you'd come and get them".
Fucking boomers I swear.
>>
>>3515682
There is no reason to get into the Mamiya C system, they amplify the cons of TLRs twofold. They're bigger, heavier, let you focus closer so there's more parallax expectantly with the longer lenses.
TLR's are good because they're small and cheap they're a good way to get into MF photography.
If you want to get into a 6x6 system get a Bronica EC or S2. They're an SLR like Hasselblads so they don't have parallax issues and are a lot smaller
>>
>>3515704
SQ is bronicas other 6x6 system not EC. Just correcting since I agree with your post.
>>
>>3515674
don't know why you'd opt to get such a big TLR instead of simply going SLR

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>>3515711
I was stating get either the EC or S2 as I think they're the best ones of that system. I'd still prefer the old bronicas over the SQ series bc they're cheaper and the standard 75mm lens is smol af.
>>
>>3515704
I guess the one advantage a Mamiya C has over MF slrs is the lack of mirror slap.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WlHspkF671s
>>
>>3515704
>parallax
The C33 and C330 have built in parallax indicators. You can also get a paramender to fix this issue
>bigger, heavier
/fit/ only I guess. they're built like tanks. they have a clear advantage over other TLRs because of their interchangeable lenses.
>>
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I have a C330 as well as the 80 & the 55 and I love the system.

It's big & heavy, sure. But it's easy to hold, they give you a lot of affordances for handling the camera and changing lenses is a nice to have. Shooting landscapes, portrait, and street stuff on one body is damn cool.

It pairs really well with the big Peak Design strap and makes walking around with it a lot easier.

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>>3515655

holy shit
>>
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>>3515711
the EC is a 6x6 camera

>>3515733
but why not just get an SLR at that point? interchangeable lenses, same weight, and you get to look through the actual lens. really don't see any redeeming qualities of the C series.

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>>
>>3515777
Macro.
>>
>>3515796
But even with parallax indicators the C330 is terrible for macro
>>
I'm thinking about picking up meta35 for my F100. Are these things worth the money or does anyone know a cheaper way that isn't too much of a hassle?

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>>3515796
>macro on anything not SLR

still waiting for a redeeming quality of the C series

>>3515823
why do you even want metadata?
>>
>>3515839
>why do you even want metadata?
Because I'm an autistic nerd.
>>
>>3515712
cool framing based east coast anon
>>
>>3515843
Shoot digital
>>
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Went to the zoo yesterday.

>>3515676
Just get some Rolleiflex K4A, they got quite cheap recently.

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Zeiss ® sharpness

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>>
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>>3515655
Delish. Can't wait to do some large format myself.
>>
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Just picked up this behemoth. Can't wait to start printing 16x20. Hopefully by next year I'll be able to print 20x24 at home.

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>>
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>>3515850
thanks anon

>>3515901
sick. prints are the best

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>>
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>>3515935
Nice photo anon.

I really want to go to 20x24 for fibre prints, but my current fibre dryer only goes to 11x14. I'm actually thinking of designing and building an oil filled fibre print dryer, but as I've seen with my other projects once you cost time you might as well buy new and spend the time you saved making pictures.

Also, an anon was having a job lot sale, so I picked up plenty of swag today. Picture very much related. My first four blade. Can't wait to get a 20x24 or larger easel.

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Bought this Canon FT QL recently. Everything seems to work fine, but i can't figure out something. The viewfinder, atleast for my eye is blurry. Is it a defect? Or just something that is easily adjusted. Been searching for the past two days and not a single answer.
>>
>>3515839
>still waiting for a redeeming quality of the C series
Almost all MF SLRs have a pretty weak point in their wide angles. Big image circle to cover the 6x6 frame along with a huge mirrorbox called for some compromises in the retrofical designs of the wide angles. Those could probably overcome given enough demand (like it happened in 35mm), but I guess those looking at wides on something larger than 35mm, say for architecture or whatever, would jump straight to medium format and also gain movements for perspective correction.
Anyway, point is, the only valiant effort in MF SLR wides that is on par with good 35mm wides, is the Distagon series for hasselblads. Huge and expensive lenses though.

So, an interchangeable lens TLR could have a very good wide angle at a decent size. As good as the RF wides essentially, since they have the same design parameters. Not sure if the C330 *particularly* had a great wide angle cause I haven’t tried its wides, but nothing would prevent it from having one.
>>
>>3515982
>would jump straight to medium format
*large format
>>
>>3515982
I dunno, I've made some bangin' sharp 24x24" prints from my $100 Bronica SQ 50mm.

The widest lens for Mamiya TLRs is only 55mm and the C330 weighs more than the SQ. So you're going to at best be equal in weight/size between the two cameras while having 3 wider lens options with the SQ (35mm fisheye, 40mm, 50mm).
>>
I've ordered a couple rolls of lomochrome purple, and plan on shooting it on my hiking trip in Seattle this fall.
Just wanted to get /p/'s opinion on it. Is it just a meme film or is it worth experimenting with?
>>
>>3516015
Idk why anyone would pay premium for experimental film, but with that being said I would like to try it out
>>
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>>3516015
It's a gimmicky film imo. Do what you want, but for the money of that film I'd rather shoot some nice slide film and do the PNW justice.

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>>3516015
I like shooting with it, there's a couple of guides online on how to get different results with it. Hiking in the greens is probably the smartest choice.

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>>
Are $100 enough to get a basic film camera in Tokyo?
>>
>>3516069
looks like someone messed up the hue slider in ps
people pay money for this shit?
>>
How bad is Lubitel 166? I want some 120 camera on tight budget
>>
How badly are the colors fucked on this slide?
>>
>>3516095
That's a pretty typical slide film sky there.
>>
>>3516095
Cool. Looks fine on my monitor but on my phone the colors are saturated to shit and I wasn't sure which display was right.
>>
>>3516119
meant to reply to >>3516114
>>
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sometimes velvia gets way too intense

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>>
>>3515729
>>3515777
My mistake, got it confused with the etrs.
>>
>>3516177
Honestly this is pretty tame by Velvia standards.
>>
What are some cheap pinhole/plastic lens(holga-like) 120 cameras without hipster tax(under 20 dollars)? I won't pay fucking 50 dollars for fucking holga or 100 dollars on some hipster pinhole cam
>>
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Should provia 100f look like a digital(pic) or i did something wrong?

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>>3516078
For some basic slr's you'll be fine. Camera box in shinjuku probably got you covered. It's a real gem of a store hidden in a murky basement.

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>>3516321
I haven't found any flatbed or lab scanner that can do slides justice. Camera scanning or drum scanning is the only way. Does your scan look like the slide?

Pic related is provia

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Played around a little bit with a Nikon zoom 300 AF point and shoot from my mom and it's a lot of fun, never used a compact film camera before and it felt kind of nice taking pictures I normally wouldn't bother with since I shoot MF on a Pentax 67ii. I'm figuring it'd be a fun travel companion to take the two together.

So I'll keep playing around a little bit with the Nikon p&s but I'm interested in something that has a bit more control, maybe aperture priority or at the very least some shutter readout so I can decide whether or not I need to use flash. Can someone give me a primer on some of the more premium compact cameras? I was looking at something like the contax TVS ii since it's got a shutter speed readout and a zoom. Or maybe a natura s since it's fast and wide... still just kind of brainstorming as to what would be a fun p&s for travel to complement my heavier SLR.
>>
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long exposure slide is so rad

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>>
>>3515839
> still waiting for a redeeming quality of the C series

Largely a matter of taste, but mirror slap and viewfinder blackout bothers some people. I like the mamiya C330 and Bronica SQ, but the Mamiya is heavy for a tlr.
Another advantage of modular SLRs: exchangable backs, took me a while to appreciate those.
>>
>>3516342
>Another advantage of modular SLRs: exchangable backs, took me a while to appreciate those.
It's surprising exchangeable backs never took off for 35mm. You'd think it'd be more even useful when your roll of film contains 36 shots. Guess serious photographers would just have several bodies.
>>
>>3516321
That looks very Provia to me. Those deep shadows and lovely blueish greens are a hallmark of Fuji slide film. If it was digital, it would have to have had a lot of work done on it to make it specifically look like Provia.
>>
>>3516350
I think Rollei tried this with the 3003.
>>
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>>3516359
Yeah, there were a handful, the Rolleiflex 2000 and 3000 being the most complete system.

The ADOX 300 is another, older example.
>>
Does anyone here dev their own E6? Any advice?
>>
>>3516363
Could be that one of the main advantages in practice was not so much switching between film stocks but quickly moving to the next role in MF. So for pros with an assistant to load up the backs this would matter in MF. For 35mm they had large capacity magazines that would take a lot of bulk film.
>>
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>>3516367
>Any advice?
Buy a sous vide
>>
>>3515994
>I've made some bangin' sharp 24x24" prints from my $100 Bronica SQ 50mm.
Yeah same mate, I have this exact lens and I’m happy with it.
But I was referring to (geometric) distortion, not sharpness. This was the issue, especially in analog prints where you can’t correct distortion with post processing like in digital.

I agree about the bulk and weight of the C330. Those cameras try to be SLRs in functionality (interchangeable lenses, close focusing, etc.), without actually being an SLR. And you end up with something that looks like 2 SLRs stacked on top of each other.
So apart from the quietness and an extra shutter speed of handholdability, the only thing you get is the *possibility* to have better (less distorting) wideangles.

But the Mamiya TLRs predate most SLR designs, so maybe it was a technical reason that they went with TLR rather a moving mirror design. Around that time Hasselblad was the only well functioning SLR design, and was patented to shit. Bronica had the S series which had issues with the complicated mirror mechanism and they experimented with some crazy designs like split mirror etc.
Even the later SQ bronicas don’t have an auto return mirror and those got produced well into the ‘90’s. The Pentax 67 was infamous for its mirror slap, and Mamiya’s own 6x7 SLRs are ridiculed for their size.
So my guess is the TLR was a viable option at the time with the technical limitations of the time. Then when technology evolved, they produced an SLR series (RB and RZ), but also kept updating their TLRs for the people that preferred that kind of shooting, mostly the quietness.
I can’t blame Mamiya, they made pretty much everything, TLRs, SLRs, rangefinders.
>>
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>>3516321
Looks like Provia. The colors look -almost- digital, but there's a nuance that Provia has that makes it gorgeous.

Pic related: Provia

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bought a Canon AV-1 w/ its 50mm lens at a thrift store for $6, don't have a battery to test it with but the old one I took out was about 25 years old and seemed to rust. Pic related has the contacts looking fine. Shouldn't be an issue to just slap a new battery in, right?
>>
>>3516458
Should be fine but clean it out with isopropyl alcohol just to be safe
>>
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>>3515768
>>3515674
>>3515676
>>3515701

I do street photography with a Rolleiflex, and after the initial honeymoon period I totally get why the world has moved onto SLRs.

Cons:
- really fucking big
- somewhat heavy
- can't zone focus because MF depth of field
- slow manual focus (no split screen/microprism on my rollei)
- left/right is reversed in viewfinder, fucks with your brain and slows you down

Pros:
- quiet shutter
- you can get away with putting the camera in peoples faces because it looks vintage and people don't know what a TLR is


TLR street photos kinda have their own look because they all are squares and it's near impossible to take pics of anything that moves.

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>>3516509

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Anons I’m lonely help please

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>>3516341
Hey anon I really like this good job

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>>3516319
It’s really easy to make your own pinhole camera. I used to make them all the time in high school
>>
>>3515952
Sounds like mirror misalignment. FT has a mirror lockup switch, try flipping the mirror up and down and see if that fixes it.
>>
>>3516509
I got a 'cord and found it attracting too much attention and hard to hold steady at slower speed because of its shape and lack of heft. I have big hands so it's probably just me. I find the big boxy shape of the Bronica SQ is a lot more ergonomic.
>>
>>3515674
>>3515676
I have a C33. Not sure if the C330 is the same, but mine was pretty fragile, part of the winding mechanism broke not long after I got it and the cost of the repair was more than the camera was worth. Fun camera otherwise, though.
>>
>>3516321
sent my provia 6x4,5 to the lab exactly 7 days ago...will arrive tomorrow i guess..can't wait for the results

>>3516394
question....heard that you have to open the tank while processing to get the invert colors..
how's the processing go with slide e6 ??
>>
>>3516568
>open tank while processing to invert colors

nope don't need to do that. look up the directions for the arista e6 kit
>>
>>3516554
The C33 will be older than any C330 (the youngest C33s will be as old as the oldest C330 i.e. around 50 years old.) The C330s remained in production until 1994. In good condition, they are generally considered to be robust cameras though.
>>
>>3516568
The water rinse will do the same thing as exposure to light, you do not need to open the tank to expose the film to light to invert.
>>
I have my dad's Canon FL 50mm 1.4 from circa 1964-1966, like pic related.

I can't find much info about this lens online. Is it considered a good lens?
>>
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Anybody doing their color stuff in a stand development-ish way like Mathias Burling?
Been doing my b&w stuff in stand development so far and want to try it out for color negs soon because it allows for the chemicals to be at room temperature afaik.

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>>3516653
Nice lens. Coatings improved over time (with later, better coatings marked s.c.c. in red letters on the rim of the lens). These FL/FD/FDn lenses apparently can be adapted to various digital cameras, but I only ever used them with FD mount Canons.
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>>3516367
get a sous vide and enjoy paying $1/roll instead of $15+ or whatever

>>3516518
cheers anon

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>>3516653
>>3516662
Tbh I don’t think you can ever go wrong with any somewhat modern Japanese f1.4 or f1.8 50mm slr lens.
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>>3516664
How would you pay $1 a roll? It's much more with tetenal E6 for me...
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>>3516668
I pay $69 for the 2.5L Tetenal kit and get at least 60 rolls out of it.

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>>3516662

I've noticed it has an "A/M" setting, which was confusing at first since I know it's a manual focus lens.

Turns out on "M" the lens is stopped down all the time.

This is an odd feature that I haven't seen on any newer lenses. How was this intended to be used?
>>
>>3516681
If the camera doesn't have DoF preview?
>>
>>3516681

I guess so.

Or maybe even ones where you have to stop the lens down manually before taking the picture?

I didn't think any FL bodies were that primitive, but maybe if you used this lens on an older R mount body you'd need to do that.
>>
>>3516681
I have an FTb which has depth of field preview, so I'd be a bit surprised if it is unavailable on the Ft. The two modes may have something to do with the FL bayonet or could just be there for backwards compatibility.
>>
>>3516682
FL bodies don't, that functionality was built into the lens as an additional ring next to the aperture setting. So if you use FD lenses on an FL body, you don't have DoF preview.
>>
>>3516691
There is no aperture preview switch on the FT because it was built into the FL lenses. FTb saw the switch from FL to FD, where they decided to move that functionality to the camera body.
>>
>>3516696
>>3516697

Doesn't the metering lever on the FT stop the lens down to measure the light?

It certainly does on the Pellix, which is the only FL body I've played with.
>>
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Velvia 50 + fluorescent lights is a rad combo

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>>3516698
Actually it does now that I bothered looking it up, lel. I've never used the meter on mine because I don't trust it worth a shit without mercury batteries. In that sense, it's pretty weird that they put a separate switch on the FL lenses. For M42 it makes sense because they shared a ridiculous number of different bodies not all auto-aperture capable, but FL system was entirely proprietary.
>>
>>3516706

I bet that control is on the lens for the FX. The FX has the meter sensor on the body (not TTL) so it has no need for stop down metering.
>>
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Has anyone seen or used this kinda film? It's expired probably 15 years ago.
>>
>>3516711
No, but I'd expose it at ISO 160 and process as normal, given the age.
>>
>>3516711
Probably rebranded Superia 400.
>>
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Am I retarded or the proper framing in impossible on Smena?
Thats the second analog roll in my life. Sometimes I think that viewfinder shows my something completely different than I'm getting from pictures

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>>3516711
http://industrieplus.net/dxdatabase/rech.php?dx=004264

What's the dx code?
>>
>>3516568
>heard that you have to open the tank while processing to get the invert colors
Nope that's not a thing

>how's the processing go with slide e6 ??
It's honestly really easy. Here's my work flow with the tetenal kit (the photoflo step is optional)
>1st dev
>rinse
>color dev
>rinse
>blix
>rinse
>stabilizer
>rinse with photoflo and distilled water
>hang up yo dry
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>>3516836
>>stabilizer
>>rinse with photoflo and distilled water
>>hang up yo dry

You're not supposed to rinse after stabilizer. You're literally washing it off. It also acts as a photoflo btw.

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>>3516826
004263
>>
>>3516838
Different anon here

For me, using stabilizer as the final step will typically result in water spots on my film. Even with/without using a squeegee
>>
>>3516838
Differentfag here, hi. It's a quick rinse, not an extended wash. Stabilizer is supposed to enter the gelatin and remain there so as to prevent microbial beasties from eating the dyes, which they'll do because the silver has been fixed away (which is otherwise strongly antimicrobial). I do this because I've got misgivings about touching dilutions of formaldehyde with my bare hands, as for finger-squeegeing and retrieving the film.
>>
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>>3516838
>>3516852
Huh wasn't aware stab was so important thought it was like the stop bath with black and white where it's not necessary but useful.
Stab left watermarks on my film added photoflo to my workflo and I haven't gotten watermarks since idk what I'm gonna do now but I'll definitely do stab as the last step.

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>>3516078
>>3516332
Interested as I'm going to Tokyo later this year. How's the market for used compacts compared to eBay/Yahoo? I don't mind paying some extra in a store but I've read about seriously jacked up prices for anything that's not trash bin cameras.
>>
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>>3515864
Really like this anon!
>>3515655
beautiful shot
>>3516517
a lonely but cool shot anon

since a lot of people are posting coast/water

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>>3516881
As long as you're on the ball about checking out used cameras for defects yourself it's probably safer than Yahoo/eBay. At least they can't bullshit you with "EXCELLENT++++ there is some fungus and the glass is crack" like online.
>>
>>3516815
You’re definitely retarded. Smena cameras use direct viewfinders, meaning they aren’t connected to the lens at all. How have you not noticed that the viewfinder is basically just a hole in the top of the camera?

Anyway the viewfinder is above the lens and slightly offset to one side. You can compensate by moving the camera a bit so the lens is approximately where your viewfinder was when composing
>>
Why do I feel like 35mm only looks good on my phone? Whenever I look at 35mm film on my monitor it looks lackluster. I order the basic jpg scan option at my photo lab. Does high res or dslr scanning of 35mm negatives make that much of a difference or am I better off shooting 120mm?
>>
>>3516985
>120mm
neck yourself
>>
>>3516988
What, I got a secondhand TLR for cheap.
>>
>>3516985
Labs scans are always terrible dedicated scanner or bust
>>
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>>3516993

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>>3516998
fuck, that's literally me!
>>
>>3516568
I just wanted to point out that re-exposing to light after dev and bleach can be a part of the reversal process, but in E-6 it is usually done chemically instead.
>>
>>3516993

Psst.. the meme is not that people want to shoot 120, it's that people call it "120mm". The format is not named after the size. It's just called 120 for.. some.. reason.
>>
>>3517010
>It's just called 120 for.. some.. reason.
Basically it was just the next number in Kodak's designation system.
>>
Looking for a good MF camera that I can shoot handheld for casual portraits and architectural/landscape stuff. So far looking at the Fuji GA645 series as well as the GW690. I like the convenience of the GA645, but the GA690 seems so simple and foolproof. Can it do portraiture, /p/?
>>
>>3517063
Any camera can do portraiture you turbo fag.
Better question is, can you?
>>
>>3517063
>Can it do portraiture, /p/?
You can, but it will literally capture people's souls. Shortly after you shoot them, they'll start smoking pot, having premarital homosexual sex, and listening to rock. Within a month, they'll be doing metheroin. Before the season changes, they'll die.

Most people can't bear the weight of this so they don't.

Focal length is kinda shitty for traditional portraiture but works for environmental portraits on top of that.
>>
>>3517071
well for example, I've heard the rangefinder patch is quite hard to use on non-linear subjects as it is circular and dim, might make it less ideal for handheld portraiture
>>
>>3516998
Editing out dust takes too long
>>
>>3517078
>cleaning dust takes time, just get used to looking at these dandruff
>editing takes time, just get used to looking at these green tinted scans
>bathing takes time, just get used to looking at grime
i hear digital is great, has no dust and costs no time
>>
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>>3517063
>Can it do portraiture, /p/?
Sure it can but why would you use a 40mm equiv. lens that can only focus as close as 1 meter for portraits? GA645 can focus up to 0.7m but it's a 37mm equiv. so even worse.
I'd honestly go with a 6x6 or 645 ILC SLR with a lens that's 50mm-80mm equiv. over any Fuji MF rangefinder for portraits (Mamiya M645, Bronica ETRS, Pentax 645, Bronica EC, Broncia SQ). If you really wanna go Fuji rangefinder get a GS645 it's got a 75mm F/3.4 (46.5mm equiv.) lens it also focuses to 1 meter like the GW690. It's small and light like the GA645 and it's got a built in lightmeter which the GW690 doesn't.
>>
>>3517063
GW690 was the legit only film camera I regret ever selling. Shit makes me hard to this day to think about how sharp shots would come out on it and how low shutter speed they could be pulled off at. Sure, it was big, has no meter, or interchangeable lens, but that was also what made it so fast to work with once you got use to it. Prices have really seemed to have skyrocketed since I let go of mine, I'll probably break down in some drunk stupor and end up ordering another one...
>>
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>>3517075
>I've heard the rangefinder patch is quite hard to use on non-linear subjects as it is circular and dim
>>3517083 again, I've never has issues with I don't have any troubles using it.
Pic related is the only portraity photo I could find. Was about 2 meters from the horse and I remember shooting it at f/3.5 because I wanted to see how the depth of field was wide open

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>>3516653
The FL is an earlier lens than FD nomenclature but uses the FD mount.

I have an FL 55 f1.2 and it's pretty nice. Sharp stopped down and has a nice focus throw.

Wide open is terrible, just like most fast lenses of the era.

I'd imagine this one is similar. Good performance, sharp stopped down, etc.

Adapters are also really easy to find for FD lenses.
>>
>>3516655
I tried it with a unicolor c-41 kit and got some pretty bad color cast even though I followed some advice for the length of time and someone who used a unicolor kit.

Apparently he and others use the digibase kit which separates the bleach and fix.
>>
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Just bought a fuji gw690 from ebay
Here are some of the photos from my first roll through it, plus my first roll of film in a while

It was my first time using a rangefinder and I just wanted to see if the camera was working
Photos are on portra 400

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>>3517100

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>>3517101

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>>3517103

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>>3517104

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>>3517106

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>>3517098
I got the digibase kit as well. so i should be in the clear. i have a roll of just some snapshots i will try it on before moving on to more important rolls.
>>
>>3517101
>>3517103
Hello fellow steettogs,
people actually love having their picture taken if you just ask them for permission first.
ok thx bye
>>
>>3517120
Yeah? I asked them and they didn't care
>>
>>3517123
That's what i meant.
experiened that myself. people feel special if you ask them first. they will relax, they will pose.
they just feel like you are a creep if you try to get a sneaky picture of them.
>>
>>3517125
Oh yeah for sure, asking people gets you a much better response
>>
>>3517083
stop posting this god damn picture you fucking retard

>>3517100
>>3517101
>>3517103
>>3517104
>>3517106
>>3517107
Why do these look like shitty 35mm scans?
>>
>>3517128
Don't know, they were scanned at a shop
>>
>>3517128
>being this much of a neet you notice how often a photo is posted
It's a related pic stfu faggot and contribute positively to the thread instead of shitting on others

>>3517134
Yeah lab scans aren't usually the the best quality unless you pay for the high end scans. These easily look like MF shots to me just because of the DOF. Have you considered scanning your own film?
>>
>>3516845
Probably rebranded konica centuria then.
>>
>>3517136
I used to own all my own developing stuff and a v800 scanner, that was a while ago though

Im just getting back into film now so im gonna try a whole bunch of different labs
>>
Anyone been to Phuket? Im going there for a couple weeks and Im looking for things to do
>>
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>>3517136
pic related

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>>3517141
I'm assuming you're Australian right? Can tell from the pics. I'd recommend trying out rewind photo lab if you haven't already, they're the cheapest in the country and I've heard the scan quality is pretty good

>>3517144
Sorry your autism is flaring up this badly anon it must be hard seeing the same image 5 times in the past 5 months.
I'd advice not opening pic related you might burst a blood vessel
>>
>>3517164
Haha yep. Pics are from surfers paradise.
I'll look them up thanks
>>
>>3517164
you've posted it way more than 5 times.
>anytime a gw690 is brought up
>anytime provia 400x is brought up
>anytime fuji killing film is brought up
>anytime discontinued film stocks are brought up

>hurrrr i'm on my last rolls of 400x
you've been saying that shit for a year now get over yourself and just shoot that film
jfc
>>
>>3516890
Thanks anon. Checking them in person is a plus, but should I expect to pay more than 50$ extra for them?
>>
Should i get canon eos 1(or 1n) or t90? Which one are more reliable and durable? How they compare with nikon f4(i want to use MF nikon f lenses on them)?
>>
>>3517063
>Can it do portraiture, /p/?
Sure it can, no tight closeups though or frame filling headshots.
Also it handles like a 35mm camera, it’s lighter and much more ergonomic than the boxy 6x6 SLRs. So yeah it sounds good for casual portraits - as long as you make them environmental portraits and not close ups.

But desu if it’s your only MF camera and mainly for portraits, I’d go for an SLR with metered prism and maybe a grip.
This will give you more close focus ability, longer lenses, more accurate framing and focusing in the very close range, as well as metering/aperture priority (with the metered prism).
>>
>>3517193
yes
>>
>>3516890
>>3517192
I've found that those ebay sellers from japan who list things as "Excellent +++++" often have an unconditional returns policy
>>
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>>3517169
Excuse me are you Ken Rockwell? Because you're looking pretty red in the face you should tone that saturation down a bit.

>anytime a gw690 is brought up
Because it's relevant to the topic you fucking sperg

>anytime provia 400x is brought up
>anytime fuji killing film is brought up
>anytime discontinued film stocks are brought up
Nope try again Salty McGee your archive post says different. Only ever posted it when the GW690 was brought up in a few shit posting threads and a few times in genuine threads discussing the camera/helping other anons.
Try being helpful for once instead of a bitter faggot for no reason.

>hurrrr i'm on my last rolls of 400x
Again, I've only commented on 400x in those obvious shit posting threads
>>
>>3517204
>Excuse me are you Ken Rockwell? Because you're looking pretty red in the face you should tone that saturation down a bit.

Topkek

Keep on based 690poster
>>
>>3517197
Good goy, cuck
>>
>>3517193
I like my EOS 1n. It's got better AF than the original 1 and has a faster motor drive.

If you want to use MF Nikon lenses you should probably just get a Nikon FG or something.
>>
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What film do you think this was taken with? Absolutely love the palette.
>>
>>3517308
Kodachrome 64 or K-11 Kodachrome
>>
Saw three of these in pretty much mint condition going for 5 bucks each, why the hell are these so cheap? Is it because they ugly?
>>
>>3517326
Probably. Most 1980s SLRs, save for a few cult cameras are cheap. They're often ugly but functional.
>>
>>3517333
I dont know about that, Pentax SLRs like MX go for like 50 bucks in the same store.
>>
>>3517334
Sure, there's some difference. But in terms of pure functionality, I notice a definite premium on 1970s SLRs. The Canon AE-1 Can't do anything a T70 can AFAIK but is usually much pricier. I guess it iis the Looks ...
>>
Hello friends, I want to do a little film photography project in b/w. I probably need about 20 rolls and want to get something affordable which I can develop myself. I was thinking of Fomapan 200 with the cinestill monobath, since I suck at normal developing.

Do you have any experience with this combination? I want to focus on light and shadows (I know, not very creative), so higher contrast would be nice. Thanks for your help
>>
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This is on the local Craigslist for $15- anyone know anything about it? It seems to use 110 film.
>>
>>3517204
>Because it's relevant to the topic you fucking sperg
You posting that same god damn picture every time that camera is brought up adds nothing to the discussion. It's just a 'hey what about me' millennial cry for attention.

>>3517204
>Nope try again Salty McGee your archive post says different. Only ever posted it when the GW690 was brought up in a few shit posting threads and a few times in genuine threads discussing the camera/helping other anons.
The archive only pulled up instances where the file name was the same. So if you're posting from multiple devices it won't find them all. I know for a fact you posted that stupid photo in one of my photo threads which didn't turn up in that archive.

>Try being helpful for once instead of a bitter faggot for no reason.
I do that. I can also call out your predictable ass. Again, posting that same photo everytime a 690 or 400X comes up doesn't = helpful.
>>
>>3517344

Don't know much about that one in particular but most 110 cameras were very basic point and shoots. The format was considered downmarket not just from SLRs but even below 35mm point and shoot. They were *ubiquitous* in the 70s and 80s. Everyone ages "8 to 80"
had at least one and could use it to take basic snapshits.

I assume this camera is entirely typical and representative of its class.
>>
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So we all know the Canon /p/ is the official rangefinder of /fgt/. If you want a classic rangefinder this is what's recommended. But is there an official SLR? I think it would have been the k1000 had prices not climbed.

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>>3517377
i am just recently getting into film and from what I saw i thought even some of the ppl here were saying the k1000 is just a meme because clickbait film camera lists put it in there? and from my google-fu before i got a camera i was under the impression it wasn't really that good just cheap and barebones for high school photo classes.

if that's not the case please educate me, y'all
>>
>>3517386
Don't know much about the K1000 but there is a general tendency for cameras that get noticed to rise in price. This may mean that some initially well priced models become less good buys. It also means that it often pays to look which capable, often very similar models have been overlooked.
>>
>>3517377

There's too many perfectly acceptable SLRs all costing about the same for /p/ to recommend just one.
>>
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>>3517377
>But is there an official SLR?
Ricoh XR-/P/

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>>3517398
I'm gonna put together a chart like what /o/ has on their sticky for the /fgt/

I love you guys and I want to help.
>>
Anyone have any experience scanning half frame? I want to try out the Pen F but I always read about it bring a bitch to scan it correctly. Do I have to use a flatbed to get the diptych or can I use a plustek 8200i? Any advice appreciated
>>
How many actually good photos do you guys average per roll of 36?

Just developed my latest roll, and theres maybe 5 pictures id consider as keepers.

Btw if youre not doing your own scans, you are a fool.
>>
>>3517512
out of 36 frames, id get about ~30 usable/keeper pics. sounds like youre just new and cant afford to pay a skilled scanning lab.
>>
>>3517326
because for the 2nd and 3rd gen maxxums, the ones with an "i" and "xi" suffix, minolta came up with a gimmick card system to control some functions of the camera, many of them being basic functions standard on pretty much all other contemporary SLRs. so, unless you had a particular card, say for exposure bracketing or multi-exposure, you were locked to use that funcion. I heard there's a special custom card that unlocks everything but you'd still have to hunt for it.
I'm a minoltafag but I've never bothered with that gen of maxxum cameras, as the latest gens are no-gimmick fully functional and not that much more expensive, except the higher end models of course.
>>
>>3517083
thanks for the advice. My friend was shooting on the GS645W but I was sort of turned off by the zone focusing.
>>
I just picked up an N80 on ebay for $15.00 as a lighter weight and less precious alternative to my F100. Pairing it with a 28mm 2.8 AF-D that I got for $80.00. For a street rig under 100 dollars did I do well?
>>
>>3517356
This Anon is right. Posting the same pics in theads is the same kind of cancer as tripfaggotry; just a cry for attention on an anonymous medium. IOW, quit being a fag
>>3517083
>>
>>3517377
*Laughs in Leica III G*
>>
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>>3517540
browse fgt long enough and you'll know some regulars live for attention
like slapping on price tags and making up thrift stories
an eyesore sometimes, but not much you can do, they just stick around like a bad smell
just ignore them
>>
I'm excited.
I just got a Mamiya C3 and a slide/plate back for it.
Anyone here every made their own silver gelatin plates?
>>
I'm interested how much those dirt cheap consumer films like ColorPlus 200 and Fujicolor C200 can be abused. If you have done any overexposure tests, please post some results.
>>
>>3517593
Pushing color plus by two stops (expose as ISO 800 at one minute to development) leads very distinctive results. The colours look different and I like it; you may or may not agree.
>>
>>3517593

ColourPlus 200 on my M3, processed as 400. I think this is at least three stops over if you wanted a base exposure.
>>
>>3517503
That's not the K1000
>>
>>3517518
lol
>>
>>3517601
Exactly what I thought, but I guess this Anon means that 30 frames are properly exposed. 30 keepers would be overly pretentious.
>>
>>3516997

Not from a Fuji or Noritsu. But the best way to view film is thru a loop.
>>
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>>3517598
what's up you stinky brisbanite

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>>3517512
34-36 are technically perfect

If I get 3 keepers I'm pretty happy.

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>>3517377
While the K1000 prices crept up due to it's vintage meme status, the superior Pentax MX remained the same price.

I'd recommend the MX over the K1000 any day.

As far as 'official' I'd say plenty of people seem to recommend the Minolta X300/X700
>>
>>3517598
>>3517621

You two from Brisbane? We should have a meet up
>>
>>3517621
>>3517629

Nah. I am from Melbourne. I often go to Brisbane for weekend trips, I have family in Caloundra area.
>>
>>3517629
Haha the community here is not all that big - chances are I probably know you or at least know of you. Post a photo anon
>>
>>3517377
I think you'll have to split this one up a bit farther. Certainly enough /p/eople have a F100, F90x, F4, or F5 to make Nikon's later motorized autofocus SLRs canonical. At the same time there's the MF pentacksues, Olympus OM series, Nikon's F2 and F3, and so on. There's been hundreds of models of SLR cameras over the decades, so trying to narrow down to a single model seems like it'll miss the other 99% entirely.
>>
Got an LTM lens sitting in customs. Supposed to be delivered today, but no chance of that. Hold me bros
>>
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>>3517665
what lens? just deved a ton of e6 and the first rolls from my voigtlander 21mm ltm lens. what a beauty of a piece of glass.

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I want to buy my first film camera. Can you recommend me something good? I want something that I'll only need to buy 1 lens for, and I would like to be able to find the appropriate film for it fairly easily.

I'm thinking of the Nikon F5, but I know nothing about film cameras.
>>
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>>3517716
what will you use it for, what will you shoot, what kind of lens do you want, do you already own lenses, etc etc etc etc etc

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>>3517717
I want to use it for portraits of friends, and street photography. I'd like something equivalent to a 24-70 with a fixed wide aperture, but I wouldn't mind a fast prime lens in the 35-80mm range. I currently use an 80D with a 70-200 mostly, along with a 50mm 1.8
>>
>>3517719
are those full frame lenses?

just get an eos film camera. literally any will do and probably cost you $20.
>>
>>3517716
Any 35mm film camera will take any 35mm film, so don't worry about that. Just don't somehow buy 120 for it.
>>
>>3517720
Yes, they are. Will the EOS film camera really work with these EF lenses? Thanks for the recommendation, anon.
>>
>>3517722
EOS film cameras generally work with full frame EF lenses. Some old third party lenses may act up but the Canon ones should be OK.
>>
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>>3515622
Someone close to me is selling pic related right now. (no, not the rolleiflex)

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>>
>>3517731
Buy it
>>
>>3517734
It's about $2900
>>
>>3517734
>>3517737
https://foto.no/cgi-bin/bruktmarked/visAnnonse.cgi?id=281679

He apparently has a second one.
>>
>>3517737
>>3517741
Buy it
>>
>>3517731
>no movements
>still slow as fuck to use
>probably weighs as much as a car
There is literally no practical use for this whatsoever
>>
I'd like to try developing my own film. Found a darkroom kit on ebay for 100 bucks but the chemicals confuse the fuck out of me.

How can I go about starting it as a beginner? What chemicals should I buy in order to start developing for b&w for example? I don't usually shoot b&w film, so is it possible to use b&w chemicals with colored films?
>>
>>3517760

Black and White is easy. Develop. Stop. Fix.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aPQ7OPy8T2w

Hardest part of the process is getting the film onto the rollers.

Chemicals come down to choice. Any readily available black and white chemical will give you good results.
>>
>>3517760
It's really not all that complicated. There's the developer that turns the exposed silver halide grains into metallic silver and the fixer removes all the remaining silver halide grains. In-between you use a stopping bath which is just a light acid that lowers the pH of you film base and stops the developing process.

Really the only time and temperature sensitive part of the whole process is the developer bath, since that affects your contrast.

Make sure to give your film a good long rinse after development. This affects the lifetime of your negatives. One rule of thumb I've heard is one minute of rinsing per year of archival.


>is it possible to use b&w chemicals with colored films?
It is, but the results will be sub-par. (and you will still get b&w images) Just get some b&w film.
>>
>>3517760
You can cross develop colour films in BW chemicals, but the results will be awful. (Too dark, the scanner may just about manage.) If you want to develop colour get a Tetenal C41 kit, it's not that hard and there is some tolerance.
Also see here: https://youtu.be/bxTE64QRBgE

For BW: the easiest is to get an all purpose developer like HC110 or Rodinal and any fixer. Follow the instructions and look at: https://digitaltruth.com/devchart.php
for specific development times.
>>
>>3517764

>One rule of thumb I've heard is one minute of rinsing per year of archival.

Such a waste of water. Wash to remove chemicals, then dry, and store in quality sleeves.
>>
>>3517506
I have a plustek 8100. The little trays that hold the film have seperations that usually match the gaps between 6 frames. I scanned some film from a friend's pen f, and I don't know if it was just his camera, but the spacing between each half frame was larger than between normal full frames. Meaning, when I tried to scan I had to cut into strips of ten or so frames, not 12 as I would like, and after each scan slide the strip up or down to fit the next negative into frame. It was a total bitch.

Hopefully that makes sense.
>>
>>3517768
After fixing one can optionally rinse use Hypo Clear and then wash proper for (in theory) better archival with 50% less time & water.
>>
>>3517604
>>3517601
Out of 10 frames on my medium format cams, id say 7-9 are of usable quality to be delivered to a client. Years of shooting certainly has helped me increase my keeper rate
>>
Has anyone experience using this affordable EPSON scanner? It’s the V370 Photoscanner, which I would like to use for 35mm scans. I hear it has a true resolution of about 1200ppi. To what comparable megapixel count would that equate? Thanks for the help

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>>3517796
Don't even bother using flatbeds for 35mm
>>
>>3517796
It's gonna suck, dude

Here's a comparison I made of a slide scan. Scan on the left is a 2400 dpi scan from a Canoscan FS4000, right is an Epson v550, both enlarged to 100%. Only time you can get away with using a flatbed is if you're going to be scanning 120. Otherwise, use a DSLR or get a dedicated 35mm scanner.
>>
>>3517731
Fuck, and I thought the C33 was a monster
>>
>>3517800
>>3517829
Thanks guys, appreciate it. Gonna be on the lookout for a dedicated 35mm scanner. I’m a bit tight on money, but I don’t have to rush things. Maybe I’ll find something used
>>
>>3517839
Look at plustek scanners they're good bang for buck
>>
>>3517796
I would have to agree with what's already been said.

Flat beds kinda suck for 35mm. I have the v600 and I was never satisfied with. I was gonna do wet mount on glass butt ended up just getting a dedicated 35mm scanner...
>>
>>3517842
Is the Plustek 7300 any good? Just found a used one for 100€
>>
>>3517829
Different anon here who already owns a v550.

For only making digital scans to share online, is the difference between flatbed and dedicated scanner all that different?
I got the v550 for the versatility of being able to scan 35mm and 120, but investing in MF just isn't in my budget for the time being.
Would it be better to just sell my v550 and get a plustek instead for now?
>>
>>3517946
If you already have it, continue using it while you save up for a dedicated scanner. Web sized images look fine with a flatbed. The issue of scan quality comes in when you start getting into printing.
>>
Stupid question: with a flatbed do you scan negatives, or prints ?
>>
>>3517979
Either.
>>
>>3517988

Which looks better?
>>
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>>3517999
Depends what size negatives - very respectable for medium format, pretty garbage for anything smaller. Scans prints okay tho

(negative itself is not particularly sharp - very glow-y old lens, will post negative scan for comparison)

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>>3515655
Very niceu. I want to get into large format at some point. What film stock is that?

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>>3518002

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>>3518001
and the negative scan. obviously look slightly different as I printed with grade 3.5 filter for a bit of contrast punch

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>>3518004
>>3518001
What kinda fucked up lens you got?

Also when I do negative scans i usually just alter the contrast until its the same as the print. Or do that before printing so I can guesstimate what it looks like

>>3517999
I mean theoretically scanning the negative would be better I think but it depends what you have. My v600 is pretty ass for 35mm but its better than nothing. It does prints pretty well, and 120 is good on it. It cant handle slide film though, it looks horrible on it
>>
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>>3518005
It's a pretty early wide angle rangefinder lens at f2 focused quite close. It's pretty sharp past like f4 tho

I don't really ever alter the scans, doesn't fit into my workflow. I basically just use them like a digital filing cabinet, if I really care about a negative I'l make it a print or have it scanned properly

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>>3517705
Nikkor 50/2. I have a couple of CV lenses already, I love em. The 15/4.5 super wide heliar is an amazing lens
>>
>>3517979
You scan negatives, never anything else. Scan the negative as flat as possible to squeeze every last drop of tonal information out of it. Then gradually add contrast back in. I generally do this by converting my scan to a Smart Object and opening it in Camera Raw. Look into ColorPerfect if you want to get better color inversions than your default scanner offers.

>>3515655
Nice. Once you bite the large format bullet it is impossible to go back :) Learn how to color correct though or it won't be worth the $8+ per shot. You have bad yellow and magenta color casts to correct.
>>
>>3518030
default scanner software**
>>
>>3518030
I want to suck the large format dicc really bad but my wallet won't let me yet
>>
REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

My ektachrome won't get here by the weekend and it's had fucking weeks.

I've got no film for the car show now
>>
>>3518062
go to a local photo shop and get some provia

F if you don't have one
>>
>>3518063
Might see if there is a local fb page where so someone may trade

There are no local shops
>>
>>3517796
>To what comparable megapixel count would that equate?
Something like 1.5-2 megapixels.
Usable for web and small 4x6” prints at photo quality (300dpi print resolution).
>>
How do you deal with backlog, /p/? I shoot a lot and despite developing regularly, my backlog never really gets to less than 50 rolls.

Should I just get one of those super big Patersons so that every time I develop, the amount of rolls is bigger and more get done? Or learn to multitask two tanks at the same time?
>>
>>3518186
Backlog is an excuse term. Develop your film, and sleeve it. That's how you deal with it.
>>
>>3518186
Care more about your snapshits. Then you'll develop them just to see how they turned out.
>>
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>>3518067
in the 0% chance you're in nova scotia i gotchu anon

>>3518186
nothing wrong with a backlog. i think waiting at least 1 month to see your results is a great exercise. but if you don't have a tank that can do at least 4 rolls at a time you're fucking up.
>>
>>3518179
Thanks mate. I ordered an old Plustek 7300 off eBay for 90€, it should be better than flatbed for 35mm.

Let’s see when it arrives (1week)
>>
Why do all film photography channels have to play those faggy lo-fi hip hop beats?
>>
>>3517786
I have a Plustek 7600 and just finished developing my first roll out of a Canon Demi, wondering how tedious the scanning process was going to be. Thanks anon for confirming the fucking nightmare :)
>>
>>3517829
is a flatbed better for 120 than DSLR scanning?
>>
>>3518050
Can you afford like $200-300 to get started?

>Calumet monorail
>150mm large format lens w/ shutter
>A few holders
>Box of black and white film, develop at home

This will probably run you closer to $300 if you just quickly buy things off eBay or wherever. Can be MUCH cheaper if you either wait for good listings to pop up, or check your local Craigslist, used camera shops, thrift shops or flea markets etc. There are often listings on Craigslist with lots of camera gear being cleared out of people's houses for crazy cheap. Check freestylephoto for supplies too.

Start with black and white until you learn all the movements properly. If you want to keep it really cheap, you can use litho film and highly diluted paper developer (still won't be amazing tonal shifts, but it works for practicing).

There's no point in spending a ton of money on color film or a nicer camera until you know what you're doing and know how to take advantage of the movements. You can just pop the lens onto a new lens board (if necessary) if you decide to buy something fancier.
>>
Is this setup worth a shit? I'm looking to get my toes wet in film, and this is only 50 bucks.
>>
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>>3518062
That sucks. I'm lucky to have a dependable lab for E-6 around, they're scarce these days.

Pics related are some recent results with E100.

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>>3518310

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>>3518310
Underexposed or bad scan?
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>>3518312

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>>3518313
Slides are a struggle with Plustek, these are good for projection but the scanner would have needed a little heavier exposure. Afaik the backlight on these things just isn't strong enough for thicc slides. The cirpol probably would have needed half a stop more compensation too, I went for +1½.
>>
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>>3518315

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>>3518321
Do you have a pretty decent DSLR + appropriate lens? You should really try the method of focusing on the film grain and stitching together a few shots to make a "scan." You can do it on one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/L4S-Ultra-thin-Powered-Adjustable-Tracing/dp/B00J3NRAV2/

That's what I do when I don't have access to an Imacon or drum scanner. It is absolutely the next best option once you get the hang of it.

Alternatively, if you've never tried VueScan, give it a shot and try out the multi-exposure feature.
>>
>>3518329
No digital cameras. VueScan didn't fare any better and also its clunky horrible UI reminds me of the cheap Indian-coded ERPs I had to use at my first internship workplace.
>>
>>3518333
Lol yes the VueScan UI is horrible, but it's the best scanning software out there if you're not using a super high end scanner. I make "raw" scans on VueScan and then use ColorPerfect to process.
>>
>>3517604
Yeah when I asked i meant interesting or engaging photos that youd be proud to show. Proper exposure isnt hard when most SLR's have light meters and phone apps are plentiful.

Lab Scans are a meme when you primarily post on IG or other sites with terrible compression.

My Plustek does much better scans than my shit local lab that uses a flatbed for everything, including 35mm.
>>
>>3518062
>no film for the car show
Worry not; nothing of value was lost
>>
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Just ordered my first bottle of Cinestill Df96 to develop some Fomapan 200. Let´s see how it turns out
>>
>>3518373
what is the appeal of this? the literal 3 minutes you might save, assuming you don't fuck up?
>>
>>3518402
I never developed my own film, so this should be easier to start. Also I only have to deal with a single bottle of chemicals, which is nicer for storage.

I just think it’s a lower threshold.
>>
>>3518403
On the contrary, this will probably be harder as a beginner to master -- if you want to get really beautiful negatives with a full tonal range, that is. Temperature, time, and agitation all totally change your negatives. The ability to change the contrast of your negatives with temperature and/or developer dilution, depending on the types of exposures you have made, changes a lot.

I'm also skeptical of the quality of the development (streakiness, grain appearance, etc.)

Feel free to try it out for your first 16 rolls, but I would highly recommend you use the normal process after that. You'll save a TON of money anyways by using chemicals that are meant to be reused for many rolls.
>>
>>3518403
One of the fantastic things about bw is how relaxed temperature regulation can be. That gets ruined with these monobath kits that require much more precise temperatures. Also we're talking about the difference of a single extra bottle (1 bottle for dev, 1 bottle for fixer).

Developing the traditional way gives you way more control and a much larger margin of error. Those monobaths are advertised as user-friendly and good for beginners but they actually aren't.

Use the chems and once you're done buy yourself a bottle of developer and bottle of fixer and do it the proper way.
>>
>>3518186
If it's impacting your life or time you get to spend shooting, then I'd say it doesn't hurt to outsource it. I send a bunch of my shit to a lab that processes everything to my specifications (developer, dilution, agitation etc etc etc) just because I'm busy

It's that, or invest in gear that's gonna make your backlog quicker to get through. Buy a Jobo, get two or three of the biggest tanks possible and just load em up all at once. You can start processing the second tank as soon as the first one is finished being washed or stabilised. Jobo's are pretty foolproof too and allow for very consistent processing
>>
Alright /p/... Grabbed an N80 on ebay for 20 bucks but the autofocus seems to be fucked. It just screws in and out and never finds focus regardless of lighting conditions or camera settings. it doesnt even attempt to focus on continuous mode. Only lens I've tried on it is a 50 1.4g. Any advice?
>>
>>3518403
>should be easier
it's not. monobaths are a shitshow when it comes to the chemistry behind them.
>nicer for storage
I literally store my chemistry in used arizona tea bottles. Two for that matter because stop bath is a lie and I've never used it once outside of college.
>>3518413
>skeptical of the quality
There's an anon in the last thread that posted a pic taken on TMax 400 pushed to 1600. It looked like he pushed it to 3200 because it was so fucking grainy.

These monobaths are a lie. They don't make quality images and they certainly don't make it easier.
>>
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>>3518479
>Any advice?
buy another one and keep the non-working one for when the door latch inevitably breaks.
it shoudl work with the g lens. my n80 with a 35 1.8g dx lens focus is blazing fast. rarely ever hunts for focus.
as for the focus problem, I'd guess the second smaller mirror under the main mirror is either extremely dirty or, most likely, missing. the AF mirror falling off was a common issue on the N55. you can try gently lifting the mirror and taking a look at the AF mirror or AF sensor on the bottom panel to see if there's any grime in there, or if the mirror is missing. if everything seems fine, then the AF module might be dead.
>>
Guys I got a vintage Canon AE-1 which film should I use with?
>>
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>>3518487
Stickies are cool and you should read them sometime.

>https://istillshootfilm.org/post/110810597513/how-to-choose-film-for-beginners-a-guide-to
>>
>>3518480
>>3518427
>>3518413
Well I’m gonna use the bottle when it’s here and see how the pics turn out. I can keep you up to date.
>>
Anyone in Brisbane have any colour film I can buy?

Maybe trade for film I have coming in there mail later in the week
>>
>>3518508

Mate the camera stores in Brisbane city sell ColourPlus 200 for pretty reasonable prices.
>>
>>3518528
Sorry I meant to say 120

And everything from the shops is overpriced as fuck
>>
How the fuck do they justify these prices
>>
>>3518275
Cheers.
I don’t remember the specs of the older plusteks off the top of my head, but scanners haven’t evolved much, chances are it uses the same sensor and optics as the newer ones, maybe with a different lamp (ccl instead of led etc.).
It’s gonna be a big upgrade from flatbeds.
>>
>>3518284
Thing is, the scanning area is a bit bigger than a 35mm frame.
So it could in theory fit two half frames at once, if there weren’t for the dividers in the holders.
I’m thinking about taking the top part of the holder off (hopefully without breaking it) to get rid of the dividers, so I can lay flat film on the holder and scan half frames like that. Maybe it’s worth trying it.
>>
>>3518534
The market provides...
>>
>>3518562
I guarantee no idiot is buying from them. I order everything from b and h
>>
>>3518534
I have no idea because I bought that same pack for $40 from Freestyle a month ago
>>
>>3518568
Guess the idiots are buying from B&H then ;^)
>>
>>3518696
The closing of them not having to charge sales tax thing made buying from them no different from buying from the likes of Bestbuy.
>>
>>3518701
>>3518696
Just noticed was talking about film itself. Replace Bestbuy with any other online retailer.
>>
I have an Olympus OM10 and I think I need to get a tripod because almost every photo I take while holding the camera normally ends up shaky like this. Any recommendations?

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>>3518738
you sure you have the ASA dial set to the proper film speed?
get faster film or set the ASA dial to -1 or -2 to get a faster shutter speed on AUTO mode, at the risk of underexposure
>>
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>>3518568
>I guarantee no idiot is buying from them. I order everything from b and h
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>>3518483
thanks for your help. AF Mirror seems to be clean and in-place. The main mirror was filthy but cleaning it didn't solve the problem. Afraid this camera might be a write-off
>>
>>3518865
that's too bad. the n80 is a nice camera. good thing they're is still cheap and there's plenty out there.
last things to try would be a camera reset (pic related, pag. 76 of the manual) or trying it out with a screw focus lens, like regular AF or AF D.
to perform a reset, hold the two buttons with green dots next to them until the lcd goes blank. you have to do it twice, once with the dial in whatever mode and one with it on the CSM custom settings mode. maybe custom setting 9 or 10 are acting up.
>>
>>3518002
Velvia 50

>>3518030
>You have bad yellow and magenta color casts to correct.
That's what the scene looks like my dude. Removing the warmth from the image completely sucks the life out of it. Colour casts are an artistic choice rather than something you have to 'fix' every time.
>>
>horrible color cast even on my shit uncalibrated smartphone screen
>"That's what the scene looks like my dude"
cue that meme image how "analog photogs" don't edit their scan
>>
>>3518982
>>horrible color cast even on my shit uncalibrated smartphone screen
This backwards logic makes my head hurt
>>
>>3518843
It was 400 Kodak and I wanted to see how less shakier it would be on 800, before this it usually was even blurrier.
>>
>>3519042
dude you really need to learn the basics here...
>>
>>3518961
i’ll give this a try and then pop my 28 af-d on it. fortunately I only got this as a back-up to my F100. I do quite like how small it is. Feels like an APS-C sized full-frame DSLR. I’ll be buying another if I can’t get this one to work properly
>>
Tell me about flashes from the 60s and 70s. What are the iconic ones? Do they need weird old batteries or light bulbs or something or can you just plug em in and use em?
>>
Flying to Toronto for a week on Monday. I was going to pack a ton of digital gear and to full vacation boomer but I'm going to follow my heart and shoot on film.

Any recommended camera shops to check out while I'm there? I'm going to need to stock up on film for sure but wouldn't mind some camera shopping.
>>
>>3519081
>can you just plug em in and use em?
many 60s and 70s flashes put an insane high trigger voltage between the two hotshoe terminals, enough to fry dead '80s-onward electronic SLRs and DSLRs. proceed with caution the older the flash unit.
http://dpanswers.com/roztr/volt_finder.php
>>
>>3519084

Thanks for the warning! Wow
>>
>>3519084

How much voltage is too much?
>>
>>3519088
depends on camera manufacturer and model. there's more info on that site.
http://dpanswers.com/content/genrc_flash_measuretv.php
electronic flashes from the 80s onward only require a couple of volts to trigger, like 2 to 6v at much, so many contemporary cameras have protection to withstand 3x or 4x that voltage. higher end cameras have beefier electronics that can take the +250v that older flash units put out.
keep in mind that older mechanical cameras' hotshoes and sync ports only completed the flash circuit to make it fire, so flash designers didn't care to add a relay or whatever to keep the flash high voltage firing circuit isolated from the camera.
>>
>>3519100

The intended camera for this is an FTb, which I assume can handle anything a flash could throw at it.

However, I would probably want to put it on my D7200 in manual mode to practice with first.

The D7200 manual says not to exceed 250V and no "negative voltage" which I assume is the same was what the page refers to as reverse polarity.
>>
>>3519108
canon ftb is all mechanical so it should be fine. meter circuit is quite simple and should be separate from the hotshoe/sync terminal.
for the nikon DSLR I'd measure the flash unit voltage to check if it's within the safe limit before using it. still I'd shoot sparingly with it.
negative voltage is when the hot contact is the sleeve, rather than the center pin.

in reality, even though no-name flashes are a dime a dozen, which are the ones most likely to have high trigger voltages, they are also most likely to be dead/not work at all. I'd rather drop $25 on an older canon or nikon flash, they're better engineered, have low voltage trigger and are more reliable.
>>
When did all the decent point n shoots jump in price so drastically? It's insane.
>>
>>3515622
I didn't realise but I've run out of stop-bath with 2 120s loaded in the tank. No shops are open today. I have a working solution of 500ml with only 16ml of ilfostop (ran out while mixing), how important is the 1:19 mix?

>pic related
>>
>>3519153
>Frank Ocean snapped with a Contax T3
>Kendall Jenner taking selfies with a Contax T2
>Uncle Terry shooting iconic grunge with Yashica T4
>Helmut Newton loved the Olympus MJUii
>Camera porn on insta constantly posting Contax G2's, T2s, T4s, MJUs etc. They're now sought after

Grab a Nikon AF, they're honestly great, I prefer the lens in a lot of cases. They're just such a dog, ugly too
>>
>>3519155
I wouldn't worry at all. I just stopped with water for years without a problem.
>>
>>3519158
I'm going to go ahead and trust a random person on the internet. Wish me luck
>>
New gay shit
>>3519182
>>3519182
>>3519182
>>3519182
>>3519182
>>
>>3519162
for black and white, you dont really need a stop bath.. its only real purpose is to extend the life of your fixer. Many folks just use water for a stop bath.
>>
>>3519162
I have never in my life used a chemical stop bath
Water gang 4 life
>>
>>3516548
Doesn't do shit. Still blurry
>>
Is this a 4x5 inch camera ??
There's no description to it
Or is it one of those typical 6,5x9



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