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File: portra400-.jpg (883 KB, 1000x1000)
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portra edition

old thread: >>3497720
All analog/film photography related questions and general discussion is to take place in this thread.
35mm, 120, medium format, large format, instant, polaroid, instax, C41, E6, B&W, developing, scanning, labs, darkroom etc.
Post photos as often as possible, we want to see that beautiful grainy goodness!

useful links:
http://istillshootfilm.org/beginners-guide-film-photography
https://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php

>posting in /fgt/ doesn't make you gay, unless you like pro 400h's tones

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Recent Velvia 50 shot.

>>3500840
According to the infamous Mr. Rockwell, its 206g vs 306g.
>>
For a Nikon F2 should I go for nikkor sc 50mm f1.4 or nikkor hc f2 50mm? Bit non-so as I understand.

I’m new to film, I like low light photography so 1.4 seems obvious but I’ve heard that the 2 has a better image?

And the 1.4 is more expensive obviously.
>>
Anyone experience small blotches in negs when using Foma Excel at 1:1 dilution? I just got them in some Foma 200 I developed, seems they’re concentrated in the last frames mostly and they kind of look like sensor dust, and are most clear in the sky. Don’t have an example to post since I’m on my phone. The developer was expired by about a month, but freshly mixed, and the negs seem fine otherwise. I’ve never had this happen with XTOL.

Thinking it could be air bubbles? I only used the agitation stick to agitate, but I do that always anyway (since Paterson lids tend to leak) and never have issues. What?
>>
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Portra 400

>>3500930
Usually, every additional stop in regards to speed goes along with flaws in regards to other lens qualities. Either, lens design is adjusted and flaws are corrected (as good as possible), or the flaws are visible in the photos. The latter is clearly the cheaper way.
My advice is to look for photos shot with these lenses wide open and see which results you prefer. Then decide if you really need the additional stop.

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For all the guys that want to give Negative Lab Pro a try, it's on rutracker.
>>
>>3500946
Here's a mega link of the crack I posted a few /fgt/s ago. I've updated it to include v2.0.0. After installing the crack on v1.2.1 just replace the old folders with the v2.0.0 folders (thanks >>3500852 for the tip!)
https://mega.nz/#!d8R3VSxA!OPUD01iDmgPYlvMyqrkDIpZUDsxtRkOGFxnLTGuW_Xg
>>
>>3500944


Well with my DSLR I have the standard 1.8G 50mm

I like taking photos during the evening, indoors as well. Generally low-light.

On my Yashica FX-7 I have, what I assume is the stock lens. an ML 50mm 1:2 which can go to f2 and I often feel like I'd like to be able to get more light in.

Do you know of a site that has comparison photos between the 2 lenses I'm looking at? I tried googling but can't find anything. I'd liek to see how much worse the photo is and how different the bokeh is (that's what I've heard is the difference)
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>>3500906
God, I fucking love Velvia 50. That's beautiful.

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Portra 400

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>>3501010
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Recently put my first roll through a Minolta x-370 had pictures of my now deceased dog on it but the film came out like what is seen in the picture. Will post scans later but I’m not sure what the problem is. Was it me as I’m kinda new to film, my camera, or the place I got my scans done at. Sorry for the photo quality just took it in the car and am kinda pissed that I just payed 15 dollars to get nothing back

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>>3501015
If you're sure you advanced the fim correctly (IDK about minoltas or that model, I have no idea about the film advance), then I'd say your shutter is fucked.
>>
>>3501015
my guess is that your shutter's fucked
>>
>>3501018
>>3501019
Anyway to solve this or should I just not use the camera
>>
>>3501015
>>3501020
that seems like shutter issues, like the curtain is getting stuck halfway. open the camera back (with no film) and do test shots on all speeds, especially the slow ones and B, to check how the shutter is behaving.
I have a minolta XG-M in which the 2nd curtain would open just half way. had to send it to service to get both curtains reset to the proper positions.
look for the minolta x-300 x-370 service manual pdf on google. the procedure is on pages 33-34.
>>
>>3501023
Thank you very much
>>
So I figured it out on lower speeds it sometimes opens half way other times it opens fully seemingly at random. At higher speeds it doesn’t open at all
>>
>>3501030
Bye bye shutter, search for the service manual anon mentioned and give a try at fixing it, otherwise look for another camera.
I bet you can get another x-370 with a different lens than the one you already have for cheap, then you'd have two lenses.
>>
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fresh ektachromes

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>>3501034

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>>3501035

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>>3501036

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>>3501038

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>>3501026
>>3501030
no problem m8. yep, shutter position is completely off. at higher speeds (past the red 60, which is x-sync speed) the shutter actually only opens a slit, decreasing in size the faster speed. if the curtains are off the slit won't be synchronized, resulting in no exposure at all.
it might be caused by faulty curtain tension springs, bent shutter tracks or, in my case, sand in the tracks dragging the curtains. resetting them is a bit complicated, you have to tear the camera down quite deep to reach the mirror box/shutter assembly and do the adjustment.
being real, the minolta x-300/370 is an awesome camera (it was my first ever camera 20 years ago and I love it) but it also goes for real cheap nowadays so it might not be worth it sending it to service if for the same money or less you can get another fully functioning one.

I recommend you to check all shutter speeds and shutter behavior everytime you get a new camera before loading a roll on it.
>>
>>3501020
Idk abot minoltas but on eos canons once you start seeing greasy shit on the shutter, it's fucked and unless it's something good like an EOS 3 or 1 it's time to toss it and get a new one
>>
>>3501044
almost all manual minoltas have vulcanized cloth shutters like pic related and if you have the know-how (and patience and time to waste lel) you can actually cut and make a new one
>>
Could I use something like a Nikon Series E 50mm f1.8 on a Nikon F2? I'm learning about the whole "AI" thing.
>>
>>3500906
How much better is Velvia 50 compared to Velvia 100? Is it worth the slower ISO?
>>
File: 2019-07-03-0003-2.jpg (3.91 MB, 3393x2249)
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This is from the first shitty roll I took.
Self-scanned using my shitty HP G2710 and Negative Lab Pro.
Is it worth going through the hassle?
Would you call this at least half decent?

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File: 2019-07-03-0004-2.jpg (3.42 MB, 3462x2271)
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>>3501099
Here's another one

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>>3501101
>>3501099
Blues seem way too cyan for my taste, which is a normal occurence with NLP set to frontier/noritsu i find.

Try using the basic color model and the colors should be more natural.
>>
File: 20-21-06-19#1 (28).jpg (531 KB, 2592x1800)
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Portra 160. Rain is coming..

>>3500989
If you feel the need for that extra stop, the get the 1.4. I don't know your shooting style. 'General low-light' could be shot on a tripod, or a faster film. Film could be pushed.
Check flickr for examples.

>>3501099
What's in the lower right corner? Resize it for 10x15cm prints and see if you'd print it.

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>>3501105
just a few minutes later.

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>>
Scanned an ancient roll of Portra

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>>


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where's the Pentax 67 guy?
>>
>>3501118
Hopefully out shooting his new camera, but probably not.
>>
>>3501121
SOON
>>
>>3501082
depends on the finder. the nikon F2 is pre-Ai so standard finders are not Ai compatible. Only the A and AS finders are compatible with the Ai lens ridge. otherwise you need the bunny ears prong to be able to use it with pre-Ai finders, and the series E nikon lenses don't have it.
I mean, the series E lens will mount and will be usable, but it won't be coupled to the finder exposure meter.
if you get an F2AS then yea, the series E 50mm will fully work, including exposure meter.
>>
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>>3500895

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>>3501097
I've never shot the 100 speed, but from what I've seen they're pretty similar. The 100 wins on technical specs, but they have different color. For me, the slower speed is worth it.

Velvia 50 adds warmth to the colors, yellows shift towards orange, orange towards amber, etc., while Velvia 100 has more accurate color. 50 can make sunsets and golden hour look much better. The added red also makes 50 worse for people photos, everyone looks sort of sunburnt. You can get a slight magenta tint on blue skies, I really like this but you might not.

50 also has much worse reciprocity for long exposures. Longer than only a couple of seconds you'll need to adjust your exposure time, and you'll also get a green color shift. Night shots usually have artificial light with wacky colors so I don't mind.
>>
>>3501034
>>3501035
>>3501036
>>3501038
>>3501039
Nice! Really wanna try the new Ektachrome but the price is still ridiculous
>>
>>3501033
Anon should keep the busted one for spare parts too. iirc, the x-370 is the same as the x-300 (latter made in japan and former made by seagull in china) and the x-7a (named such in some non-US markets.

They’re all over the goddamn place on ebay and cheap as balls but not a bad piece of gear.
>>
>>3501061
I tore an x-700 down all the way to the shutter once. It was the most unpleasant camera repair attempt I’ve ever subjected myself too. Fucker never worked again either.
>>
>>3501184
>the x-370 is the same as the x-300 (latter made in japan and former made by seagull in china)
X-370/300 are japan made. maybe there were some made by seagull at the tail end of production but I've never seen one.
the latter X-300s/X-370n can be japan (rare), malaysia or china made.
X-7a is an X-300/370 in all black always, whereas the latter is rare in all black.
regardless of where they were made, all are pretty decent cameras. I actually like the X-300s better as it has the tiny aperture window in the viewfinder.

>>3501185
oh man, I know! I once tore down an X-300s with dirty magnets and it was a pain all the way throught. flex boards are brittle as fuck and has like a thousand wires all over.
right now I have an X-370 on the workbench with a short in the aperture magnet. have to check it out but I just keep putting it off forever
>>
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I think fp4 is my new favorite for landscapes
>>
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>>3501199
>>
>>3501193
I used to have a Vivitar V50, which was just a rebadged x-370. It was one of the chinese seagull ones.
>>
>>3501200
Really good for a portrait of a stump. Good contrast although would like it more w/out the marks
>>
>>3501035

Very nice colors. Is this in Krakow by any chance?
>>
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I made this small comparison of the effect of 3 different types of warming filter on Velvia 50.
>>
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>>3501208
>Vivitar V50
it's actually a rebadge of the minolta X-370s, which is seagull made. The X-300/370 from the mid '80s is the base from which all these cameras came from, but it is always Japan made. If it's branded minolta and has an 'n' or 's' suffix, then it's seagull made, though the very early ones are Japan made. all of them have the same exact features and controls.

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>>3501231
For the first image examples I think the no filter looks the most natural and is overall more appealing too look at. (You could argue that the tiffen 812 filters gives off a more subtle late afternoon feel)
I don't like any of the examples of the second picture, I think Velvia 50 isn't a good film to use in already saturated scenes. It strive in making flatter scene look more punchy.
All and all warming filters aren't a good idea with Velvia would be interesting with a cooling filter
>>
>>3501281
Oh, cool! Interesting bit of trivia.
>>
>>3500941
Here's an example of the blotches I'm talking about, this frame had it perhaps the worst. I have no idea what caused this.

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>>3501231
Thanks anon, that’s really useful.
Having side by sides of identical frames is worth much more than just words and descriptions of what filters do.

I think when there are neutral tones in shade, they turn blueish so a light warming filter works great to neutralise that. Like the asphalt in your picture, if you compare no filter and the Hoya.
>>
>>3501299
Looks very much like bubbles. I tap the tank a little every time even if I just stir with the rod.
>>
>>3501010
how long did you expose?
>>
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>>3500906
Great shot anon, did you take this in Oklahoma?
>>
Just got this in the mail and ordered some Kodak Gold 200 and Kodak Tri-x 400. Not sure if its specific to Yashica lenses but taking it apart to remove dust was super easy. Hopefully this camera lasts more than a couple years.
>>
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portra 400
yashica t4

anyone else here over carrying around anything larger than a point and shoot?
>>
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>>3501346
Nope.
>>
>>3501363
What tripod is that? I've been looking for a good tripod recently to take hiking with my own Bronica.
>>
>>3501367
Some Sirui aluminum tripod with a ball head, it's an old model I grabbed from a clearing sale. It has served me well for the past couple of years and can easily handle the Bronica.
>>
>>3500895
Any recommendations on an SLR that is/has:

Mechanical shutter
Full manual mode
LED light meter (that uses common batteries)
Reliable
Black
Compact (at least not fuckhuge)
Not too expensive or hard to find

Basically I want my Bessa R2, but in SLR format... does she even exist?
>>
>>3501385
Minolta x-700. Can be expensive as far as Minolta SLRs go, but it doesn’t have meme status like canons and nikons. X-570 would be a good option too.
>>
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First time scanning slides. Provia 100.

>>3501385
Nikon FM. A friend has the FM2 and I always like it when I handle it.

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>>3501385
Minolta XD11
>>
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>>3501385
Or a pentax MX in black i know they exist
>>
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Velvia 100

Picked the wrong days to shoot these.

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>>3501394
>Nikon FM
Probably on top of my list right now. How's Nikon vintage glass?
>>3501402
>Minolta XD11
Lovely camera, but seems hard to find in good condition.
>>3501387
>>3501405
Good suggestions as well, although I don't really feel X-700 styling...
>>
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Never shot slides before. Looking at a positive is nice, but I'm not sure if I like the overall results. More Provia 100f.

>>3501418
>How's Nikon vintage glass?
No idea. I took a single shot with his 50mm 1.4 and horribly missed focus. Other photos that he took with it (develop and scan his films) looked good.

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>>3501425
Slides generally have a pretty low latitude, so its not a good idea to shoot it at times where a high dynamic range is needed, like your shot here. I usually will only shoot slides on cloudy days with lots of overcast personally. Pic related.

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>>3501418
I quite like it.
pre ai
105 2.5 has a little something making stuff look good. shitloads of chromab and a bit soft
28 3.5 very sharp no distortion, somehow low dynamic range.
200mm 4 people hate it, i like it.

50mm 1.8 ai feels modern
>>
>>3501418
>X-700 styling

Fair enough. I don’t mind it myself, but it definitely has a hint of 80s-itis to it.
>>
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12585 does not work well with the 90/4.

>>3501433
I exposed for subject and blew highlights at portraits.

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I may have inherited a decent amount of 35mm film that's been on ice. Currently I shoot professionally with a Sony A7, what's a good starter film camera to begin to experiment with?

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>>3501491

Go with a Minolta a7. A little pricey, but it was a professional film camera made by the same camera division that made the a7. Controls and general feel of the camera are very similar.

Oh, and if you have any a-mount lenses, even modern ones, they will work great with the a7.
>>
>>3501287
I would agree that no filter looks the best and it's what I normally use, but I made this for comparison. Using a filter might make things look better in bad lighting, but that's not what I normally shoot. Both of these >>3500906 >>3501155 were no filter.
I've only used a cooling filter once, to try and trim out some slightly warm artificial lighting. It worked, but left an ugly green cast. In the future I would use no filter and correct it in editing.

>>3501304
I was tired of seeing a bunch of text but nobody actually doing side-by-side comparisons, so I just went out and spent a roll on this. In any case you shouldn't just take my word for it, experiment yourself and see what you like best on the light table.

>>3501340
Thanks! This is just north of Mojave, CA.
>>
I want to do dslr scanning to save some money and now I'm finding out I need a macro lens. Wtf bros, I thought film was supposed to save me money in the short term?
>>
>>3501418
How much would you be willing to spend? I have a black XD11 in good condition but i really don't want to let it go because it is a 50th anniversary edition.
>>
Should I cop?
>>
File: 20190704_003408.jpg (2.63 MB, 4032x3024)
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How many of us are printing our photos in the traditional way?

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>>
Latest effort.
>>
>>3501536
No you want a fully manual camera. Over time the electronics become prone to failure
>>
>>3501541
Thanks for the heads up. Yeah I just looked it up a bit online seems kinda dumb with all electronic controls.
>>
I’ve got an SRT-202 that I’ll never part with, because it’s good to know that I have at least one camera with no electronics that might randomly shit the bed on me.
>>
>>3501539
Fucking nice, that looks great. Love the black border, what method do you use to achieve that?

Is there much detail in the sky? I'm always trying to pull more highlight detail, big fan of split grade printing and heavy dodging/burning lately
>>
>>3501542
No problem, I forgot to mention that model is also known for the mirror getting stuck. If you want a nice cheap pentax film camera go for the Pentax P3. If you don't care if its Pentax I'd go for a Yashica FX-3 Super 2000.
>>
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>>3501539
What is this and how do i do it
>>
>>3501552
darkroom printing homie

yaknow, dim red light, 3 trays and an enlarger?
>>
>>3501556
>3 trays
you don't use water trays before and after the fixer?
>>
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>>3501537
Got a nice darkroom set up in a storage room in my apartment block that is tied to the lease of my apartment. This is a photo when I just set it up, but since then I've put two desks in to seperate the wet and dry areas. Also spent a good bit of time completely sealing all the cracks around the door, window and wall to ensure it is 100% light tight, meaning I no longer need to use a darkbag to develop film (even during the day). Makes dev a lot easier and a lot quicker

Have been taking friends through and showing them how to print and develop, it's a lot of fun seeing how excited people get by it all.

On a side note, that safelight is very close to your work area, is it safe? I've always kept mine at least 3-4 feet away from the enlarger and work area

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>>3501558
I was being reductive for the sake of getting the point across. I usually wash prints for like 15 seconds after the stop bath and then 3-5 minutes after fixer. I always learned with running water, though my mentor used FB paper and I only use RC so I'm not sure how important the running water is in my case. That said, my final tray after the wash is water with fotoflo in it, makes it dry quicker
>>
>>3501536
Comes with a garbage 3rd party zoom lens, so definitely no.
>>
>>3501560
ah, alright. it's just that I got curious about the split grade printing thing. I was reading the ilford article about it and was just watching the linked video and the guy is just using 3 trays, and then right after it ends I read your comment about 3 trays. it got me wondering if it can be done that way as the few times I've printed at my college's darkroom it had a 5 tray setup.

the vid I was watching
https://www.youtube.com/watch?list=PLRCzs4hqbbBTpVSB5uBobkeQZ2BmhoQd3&v=XYkCc_nrG2I

>my final tray after the wash is water with fotoflo in it, makes it dry quicker
holy fuck that's genius haha. never thought about it
>>
>>3501563
The only real reason to use more than 3 trays is for chemical conservation and to ensure each chemical step happens effectively. Obviously cross contamination is an issue, so you can prevent it by first washing off the previous chemical. No point to do it before the stop bath, as the chemical is designed to kill the developer.

For a home darkroom though, three trays is fine. Chemicals are dirt cheap, and the chemical life indicated on the bottle accounts for a little bit of cross contamination anyway.

Re. the fotoflo, definitely use it! That's literally what it's meant for, and is really useful if your water is hard as it'll effectively prevent waterspots

Split grade printing is a great technique and hard to master, but it's a great trick to have up your sleeve. I tend to make a straight print at a suitable contrast grade, and then do a split grade and decide which I like better.
>>
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>>3501568
just gonna post a very quick and dirty print I did the other day. If you look closely near the bottom of the jacket you can see where I touched the unexposed paper with fixer on my finger when I was putting it into the easel. I like to make postcard prints for reference and then choose which ones to make larger

unsure why my scanner has made this so grainy but what can you do

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>>3501309
I do tap the tank after every agitation though, which is why that’s weird. I agitate for the first minute continuously and for ~5sec every 30 seconds after that.
>>
>>3501582
The only other thing I can think of is bubbles forming from cavitation if you spin the whole thing too hard, but I don't know if that's even actually possible. I use Fomadon Excel all the time and never seen this.
>>
>>3501568
thanks for the tips m8. I'm looking into setting up a darkroom at home sometime soon and I'm learning a lot with all this. especially about the photoflo. I have a bottle here at home but only ever used it for film. local water is pretty hard so I'm def gonna be using it for the final rinse of paper too.
I'd love to try split grade printing. I've always wanted to use the colored contrast filters on the enlarger lol
>>
>>3501537
Not me. Nowhere to setup a darkroom and the local darkroom is $150/mo.

I'm a dirty dev + scan bastard
>>
>>3501537
Darkroom work is fun. I much prefer it to scanning, you can spend 3-4 printing and you barely realise it, while 1:30 hours scanning feels like ages.
Plus, working alone in the dark with a deep red light, maybe some music on, is soothing.

Now that I moved I don’t have a darkroom and I miss it.
>>
>tfw sold mamiya RB67 and want it back

I miss it
>>
>>3501415
>>3501394
I like these
>>
>>3501491
>kodakchrome
Throw it away it can't be developed anymore
>>
>>3501549
Thanks, there are some clouds, but on that particular print I didn't burn in the sky enough.

Black borders were done with a mask and a 60s exposure of white light from the enlarger. The enlarger takes longer but casts a sharp shadow. I've tried turning on the room light which works well, but the light bends around the mask and creates softer edges.

>>3501549
>>3501552
I used a combination of split grade and an grade 2 for the base exposure. Some areas needed more density with less exposure so burned in with grade 1. Some areas needed more contrast but without added density so I did some dodging on the base exposure and then burned in with grade 5.
>>
I’m considering getting back into large format. But I’m torn between going for a 4x5 or an 8x10. Lens selection for 4x5 is much bigger with cheaper optics, but 8x10 is vastly superior in terms of resolution. I will only be shooting landscapes. I have decided to go for an intrepid, as I don’t want to use too much money. It will be reserved for “special” occasions. I will shoot slides and colour negs. My main camera will still be my D850. I will digitise with the d850 or get a flatbed.

Suggestions?
>>
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>>3501559
Cool man, it will cool to see some pics of the current setup.

As for the safelight, that's only there to fill the main room. Papersafe is at the other end of the room and main work area is in the adjacent bathroom which uses a 902 bounced off the wall. I do safelight checks and have been satisfied, considering there is a lot of ambient light making it's way though my curtains. Though I only print at night so it all works out.

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>>3501649
>air duster

Cans of dust... I never understood these things. Why would you want to put dust in the air?
>>
>>3501650
HAHAAH YOU'RE SO FUNNY HAHAHAH I'M LAUGHING SO HARD RIGHT NOW
>>
>>3501651

If you find an honest question funny, you must not be a naturally curious person. Also, what's the point of air filters? All of the ones I've seen just sit there collecting dust.
>>
>>3501652
HAHAHAHAHAH STOP IT HAHAHA I'M GOING TO DIE FROM LAUGHTER HAHHAHAHAH
>>
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>>3501650
W
>>
>>3501656

I dust can help myself
>>
>>3501491
>Kodachrome
Sell it on ebay for like $15 a roll. It can't be properly developed anymore as it needs special chemistry and special equipment, all of which have been discontinued and decommissioned for almost a decade now.
Hipsters like to fuck around with processing it as black and white and crossprocessing it in homemade chemicals, but if you want b&w just shoot a b&w film, and it you want fucked up "artistic" colors and random casts you can just shoot some e100 and process it in c41 chemistry, or buy expired film and shoot it with a fungus'd helios on a camera with damaged light seals.
>>
>>3501646
I’d at least throw it up on ebay. Some memester might buy it.
>>
>>3501497
>buy reversing ring on ebay for $4
>reverse mount your sharpest lens
>put camera on tripod and position the film negative in a way that it fills your whole frame (assuming both are 35mm, if you're scanning 120 or you have a crop sensor DSLR you'll need to go closer)
>manually focus on the grain, use live preview at 100% to do so
>expose to the right
>use even light like your phone screen, but elevate the negatives above the screen to make sure the pixels aren't in focus
>>
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This should last me through the summer holiday. See you in Estonia, boys.

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>>3501693
Damn. I’m jelly.
>>
>>3501693
Scan and Dev yourself or do you send to a lab?
>>
>>3501711
I do B&W myself, C-41 and E-6 are too much a hassle so I have a lab deal with them. I scan everything myself, 35mm with a Plustek and 120 with Epson V550. I'm rather fed up with the latter so I'm thinking of investing in a Reflecta 120 scanner soon.
>>
How expensive is it really to shoot on film? Is it really such a large running cost to develop, scan, and print as some people say?
>>
>>3501776
Depends on what film and how much of it you shoot.
>>
>>3501778
Let's say I do 2 or 3 rolls of Kodak Portra 400 a month, would that be terrible expense?
>>
>>3501776
shooting film is expensive if you go the DIY route.
my short term goal was to be able to shoot, develop and scan B&W and color negative 35mm film at home. net cost has been roughly the same I paid for a brand new nikon d3400 dslr (when it was first released) with 2 kit lenses plus a 35mm prime. it'll keep going up with film and chemicals costs.
don't see myself going to 120 film anytime soon. that'd get quite expensive.
>>
>>3501776
1-time developing supply purchases (so excluding chemicals) are ~$100 for bw with another $50 added for a sous vide if you want to dev color.

For quality scans you're looking at spending at least $300 for a dedicated film scanner or a macro lens + film holder for dslr scanning. don't even bother with flatbeds
>>
>>3501794
> 2 or 3 rolls of Kodak Portra 400 a month, would that be terrible expense?
Nah it’s quite reasonable. You can get dev + good scans for like 15, 20$ at most. And another 7$ for the film. Say 25$ total.
So 50-75$ per month with no hassle at all, and good quality scans. That’s a very reasonable price for a hobby. People pay more than that to do a sport, or a gym subscription etc etc.

The “good” (or bad) thing with film is, costs depend on use. You don’t use it for sometime, there’s no cost or depreciation of your gear.
You decide to shoot just a little bit? You shoot a roll.
The objectively good thing is the very low barrier to entry. With 50$ for an SLR and 20$ for film + dev + scans, you can go from zero to having 36 “full frame” photos and the ability to experiment with any photographic effects (bokeh, motion blur, long exposures, etc etc.).
Also lenses are much cheaper for manual focus ones, so you get to try different focal lengths.


If you shoot a lot, you’re looking realistically at 250-300$ for a dedicated scanner, around 50$ for dev tank + changing bags + thermometer + a beaker or two, say another 20-25$ for chemicals that will last you for more than 40 rolls, and you’re set.
Then your costs are just the actual rolls of film, anythiung between 3-8$, usually closer to 5-6$ for most films from the main brands.
>>
Used over a year old tetenal E6 kit. I made a solution from it two months ago and today I saw the blix was ruined. Made new blix from what I had leftover in the kit and it worked fine. Roll developed just fine.
Amazing how strong most of this stuff is, the first dev and colour dev both look really nice still.

Now it's time to sell my RZ67 since I need the money sadly.
>>
anyone has or ever had a Nikon FG? does the self timer flips the mirror up as soon as you press the shutter release?
I'm looking into buying a mint body for $25 because the seller says the self timer is bad as it "works as bulb". I'm thinking maybe it's like the Nikon FE, that flips the mirror up before the exposure to avoid mirror shake and he's mistaking it as a malfunction.
>>
>>3501385
I second the Minolta XD11 (or XE if that's more to your taste.)
>>
Girlfriend her best friend and I will be taking a week and a half road trip from Vancouver BC down the Oregon coast through to San Francisco and then down the coast from there all the way til LA. I’ll be going to a hardcore fest in LA as well, and we’re planning on Joshua Tree as well Salvation Mountain. I’m planning on taking landscape photos as well as street photos while in the city. I’m definitely taking my Mamiya 7 as well as my T4 for a bar/party/festival camera, so I’m basically torn up between the Minolta and the Canon and how much of what film to bring.

Listed:

Canon EOS 10 - 35mm f1.4, 40mm f2.8

Minolta XG-M - 50mm f1.4, 28mm f2.8

Mamiya 7 - 65mm f4

Yashica T4

————————

7 rolls of Portra 400 135

5 Rolls of Portra 160 135 (one half roll in Yashica)

7 rolls of Ektar 100 135 (one expired 2013)

1 roll of Ektachrome 100

2 rolls of HP5 400

7 rolls of Portra 400 120

7 rolls of Portra 160 120

6 rolls of Ektar 100 120 (one expired 2013)

1 roll of FP4 Plus (presumably expired)

Thx fellas
>>
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Is there any site still worth to upload my work? I really dislike instagram

Illford hp5 at 1600

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>>3501902
Make your own website
>>
>>3501895
the minolta XG-M is small and light and the MD28/2.8 is fantastic for wide outdoor shots. however, I'd keep it away from sandy environments. Mine had a shutter jam, due to sandy dust somehow getting on the shutter tracks and everywhere else, after taking it to a desert trip. had it around my neck the whole time though. I'd take the sturdier Canon EOS for such environments.

sounds like it's gonna be one hell of a road trip. have fun anon.
>>
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>>3501904
Is the maintenance of the server worth it if i'm not making money out of my work yet?

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I really really wish the local lab would stop scratching my damn negatives

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>>3501922
wrong picture whoops

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>>3501895
bump

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>>3501923
Omg are you sure it isnt your cameras fault? Else why do you keep going there
>>
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Dead man's hand...or something.

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Devil's field as we call these around here.

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Interesting jagged stones. Usually the blocks on fields like this are more or less rounded or cleanly split.

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A small stream was running somewhere below the rocks. It felt weird how you can clearly hear water running but all you can see is a field of rocks.

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This field wasn't too big, but there should be bigger ones up ahead where no trail goes. Gonna have to revisit this place. It's right by one of the largest national highways but the hills block to sound so it's eerily quiet and completely unknown to the normies.

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>>3501929
cant really rule out the camera. They're local and cheap since I do my own scans, but I need to start looking elsewhere.
>>
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>>3501936
The stream running under the field.

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And this concludes today's exercise in rock photography. Here's an abandoned hilltop farm love shack found on the way.

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>>
To the anon who said he scans with Minolta dimage iv, whats your workflow specifically? I'm having trouble with accurate enough colors through vuescan.
>>
>>3501936
Which highway? I'm guessing Valtatie 6.
>>
>>3501949
Vt4, a little south from Vaajakoski. You can easily find this place if you look at terrain maps.
>>
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Old shot I just now got around to editing, Velvia 50
>>
>>3501902
flickr
>>
>>3501953
Hnnngggggggg
>>
>>3501895
Too many different types of film and 1 too many 35mm SLRS. Just take the T4 and 7 for yourself and have yer lady take whatever SLR for herself.

Just stick to 1 BW film...doesn't matter what.

Pick between Portra 160 and 400. Taking both will probably result in you feeling like you always have the wrong one loaded. Id probably take P160 in 135 and P400 in 120 since the 7's lenses are slow.

Take more slide film.
>>
Ok, so been shooting 35mm Foma 200 now for a bit to test if it’d work as my choice for cheap bw stock, with Hp5 getting too expensive for mindless daily snapshitting. So far, I like it but I’m not sure if it suits my style. It’s very different than the usual 400 speed stuff contrastwise (lots of range in the grays, not very punchy), but the shadows/blacks just suddenly drop out which is kinda disappointing.

Seems to be nice developed in Excel/Xtol 1:1, but nothing special and slightly grainier in HC110. Need to try pushing it to 400 and 800 to see if the contrast would be more to my liking.

Also one other minus is that the emulsion seems to get scrathes and other damage really easily. Dries totally flat though.
>>
>>3501651
>>3501656
How not to respond to a troll
>>
Are lenses for 35mm universal or they only fit particular cameras?
>>
>>3502139
there are over a dozen different lens mounts
>>
>>3502142
ok, thanks
>>
>>3501231
a) This is a dumb example because it's shot in already warm afternoon light.
b) Lot of work to find out what based god Ken has been telling you for decades.
>>
>>3501433
>tfw all your friends are "woke"
>>
>>3501953
doubleplane, fuck yeh
>>
>>3502158
>a) This is a dumb example because it's shot in already warm afternoon light.
Don’t think so mate.
The upper frame has lots of shadows. Shadows go blue in general (they *are* blueish anyway due to how light scattering works) and much more so with slides. The tint of the road is where it’s most visible.

The only time I think of warming filters is with slides when I have lots of shadows in the frame; which if unfiltered gives an almost splitoned look.
>>
Looking to get my first film camera. Was wondering if it's worth it to get an AE-1 in good condition for around $90 or if I should shell out around $150 for serviced Pentax MX.
>>
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>>3502171
m8 this is practically radioactive.
Everything in the scene, including the shadows (ie the horizontal ones on the mountains) is warm toned. If you want to see blue, shoot in open shade on a clear day at any time before beer o'clock.
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>>3502171
shooting at golden hour to test how warming filters look is pants-on-head-retarded
>>
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>>3501927

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>>3502189

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>>3502175
canon a1 is superior for a similar price
>>
>>3502175
get a canon t70 for $15.
>>
>>3501020
SLR's are a dime a dozen. get a new one
>>
Just to add to the warming filter discussion, here are two pictures of the same spot with and without an 81B warming filter on Portra 400, as a little experiment for myself. I took these pictures a while back at a creek in a forest around mid-day, so not too much in the way of direct sunlight. I also had a circular polarizer on.

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>>3502237
And then here's the picture with the 81B filter. I'm still not exactly sure which one I like more. The warming filter clearly has an effect on the water and the rocks, but might have warmed up the greens too much. As a result there's a bit less contrast between the stream and the forest. A warming filter probably wasn't too necessary to begin with, especially since this is already a color negative film, but I thought it'd be cool to see what effect it has.

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>>3502175
>AE-1
don't fall for the AE-1 meme. it's an average camera with hipster tax nowadays. there are better and more complete Canon film cameras for less.
the Pentax MX is an awesome camera, really compact, all mechanical, all manual. I don't think I'd pay $150 for one, but if you want the peace of mind of having a guaranteed working camera recently out of service then it seems ok-ish of a deal. just hope it comes with at least the SMC-M 50mm f1.7 lens and not the more common f2 lens.
>>
>>3502227
I know I shouldn’t care about this one bit, but holy hell are T series cameras ugly.
>>
>>3502240
IMO the great thing about canon is that EOS film bodies are a thing. Autofocus, high speed vertical shutters, and access to a mature and extant lens ecosystem? Fucking baller.
>>
>>3502242
I like it, in a weird way....
>>
>>3502240
>don't fall for the AE-1 meme. it's an average camera with hipster tax nowadays.
but bodies are still dirt cheap, right?
>there are better and more complete Canon film cameras for less.
like which one? genuinely interested.

I got my AE-1 ten years ago at my local 2nd hand place for 120 eurobux with a 50mm/1.4
didn't know shit about which body was good back then, needed one for uni and the 50/1.4 caught my eye
>>
>>3502227
>>3502246
correct me if I'm wrong, wasn't there some electronic component on these that tends to go to shit over time? I'd be interested in upgrading from my AE-1.
>>
>>3502251
Sticking with FD mount...all of these can be had for $100 or less and all are better than the AE-1...

Canon A-1
Canon F-1 (first 2 generations)
Canon EF
Canon T70

EOS mount has even better value but won't get you any hipster cred
>>
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>>3502254
every electronic camera 20+ years old will have electronics that can randomly shit themselves.

Who cares when they sell for this much. FWIW, mine has been an absolute gem but I've only had it a year. It's seen 20ish rolls or so in a variety of weather (35C, -25C, snow, rain, beach).

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>>3502255
see
>>3502254
pls
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>>3502256
I was thinking more in the lines of things that will invariably go to shit making it a bad idea to go for such a camera. I remember reading something like this about the later FD cameras.
otoh you do have a good point. I think I'll give the T70 a go, ol' reliable has earned her retirement.
>>
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>>3502259
i mean, you could get an OG F-1 for $100. or KEH has an EF for $72 right now.

all depends what you want in a camera. the T70 could definitely die any moment due to faulty electronics...but it's pretty nice giving zero fucks about the camera you're using because of how easily replaceable it is. also it's meter is pretty great. pic related: velvia 50 shot in auto mode.

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Really falling in love with Ektar, but sometimes it feels like I'm not scanning as well as I could with the V550. Anyone with a good set of settings?

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>>3502242
>>3502246
T canons are A E S T H I C as fuck m8, especially the T70. they look like a roland or korg late '80s synthesizers.

>>3502244
Film EOS are real great cameras, from the bottom budget ones all the way to the top. best thing is that hipsters don't care about them and prices are always good.

>>3502251
around $100 will get you one nowadays but with the standard 1.8 lens. the FD 50/1.4 lens is fukkin' awesome. it goes for like $45 to 50 on it's own. IMHO it's a must have if you own an FD canon.

>>3502254
canon A series are more unrealiable than the T70 nowadays, with them having the infamous squeal and the mirror falling off it not taken care of.
T70 has a motor film advance. with 20+ years the motor might fail and leave it unusable, but in reality I've never seen it happen. I've got an T50 and a T70 for free as junk, both with awful bad battery leakage and no battery cover. directly wired in a power source and they came back to life perfectly, with working motors and everything.
>>
>>3502246
To each their own, anon. Good on you.
>>
Would a Nikon S2 be worth getting?
>>
>>3502275
isn't the s3 nearly the same price?

at that price point i'd be looking at a bessa r2 with lens
>>
>>3502158
>>3502171
>>3502176
>>3502178
I would totally agree that this was the wrong time to shoot these. I would have normally shot these with no filter. But it's pointless to go out and shoot photos in bad lighting, so you have photos in good lighting with unnecessary filters. I haven't got my digitizing process quite dialed in yet, so these also have a bit of a magenta cast even though I calibrated the WB to my light pad (anyone else had this problem?).
Plenty of folks online have posted what they think about these filters, but I haven't seen any side-by-side shots of the same subject. It's more about the difference between the shots than the actual picture itself.

>>3502239
I think I like the one without the filter the best, the warming filter seems to suck color out of the shadows. How are you controlling the negative inversion process, home scanning? Otherwise the scanning would probably negate the effects of the filter.
>>
>>3502264
What do you feel about Kodak Gold 200? Have you tried any of that? Your scan looks good btw, not sure what your worried about. What's the location on that picture?
>>
>>3502271
>T70 has a motor film advance. with 20+ years the motor might fail and leave it unusable, but in reality I've never seen it happen.
I got one. The winder suddenly failed mid-roll and wouldn't advance no matter what I did. Also had a Mju which would advance the film at seemingly random intervals until jamming completely.
>>
>>3502296
rip
it's always a risk with cameras with integrated motor drive and a fear I always have when buying them, especially mjus/stylus. damn thing seems to move fine with no roll, but then you put a roll in and it's ded.
I've been lucky with Canons. never had one with a busted motor.
>>
>>3502275
Not really. For the same price you can get Bessa or CLE which gives you better glass and more lens choice
>>
>>3502308
>>3502296
I have a mju ii that has a broken door latch or something, that would spool at random times
>>
>>3502296
>>3502308
Motor drive failure is commonly due to nylon gears. Those have a tendency to become brittle and then break at some relatively consistent number of years since manufacture. This especially typical of 70s-80s motor drives, which tend to be overpowered for their application and therefore prone to breaking gears as soon as they get a little bit fucky.

Also seen on plastic Minoltas without motor drives, and the Nikon F2's motor drive (which is the classic example).
>>
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I can't wait to test that baby.
I ordered mercury battery from Russia and it works perfectly.
The only issue is that I have no inspiration.

Does anyone have experience with half frame camera?

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>>3502345
I'm jelly as fuck. been looking for one of those for months now. every FT for sale seems to have a busted exposure meter. you're lucky if you have a working one.
fun thing about half frame cameras is that you have so damn much exposures you can experiment with making diptych/triptychs or "panoramic" scenes made up of a lot of exposures.
>>
>>3501776
Really expensive in time and money and maybe storage space, yes.

A few ten thousand shots + a good scanner and you're way past what it'd have cost you to get pretty much completely professional equipment on the digital side. Or I guess you could say digital shooting is really cheap...?
>>
>>3502294
Haven't given kodak gold a try yet. Sometimes I feel like the image could be sharper? Then again I might just be too used to looking at vector images or somethng. The shot was taken in Spruce Woods Provincial Park (Manitoba). It's an interesting place.
>>
>>3502345
So the meter actually works? Never even bothered to try it on my FT, I just meter with my phone.

I shoot half frame quite a lot, my main hf cameras being a Pen FV (broken at the moment) and a Pen FT with the 38mm f1.8 and 20mm f3.5. I also have a bunch of others like a Konica AA35 and a Yashica Samurai. I like the 4:3 aspect ratio and the increased depth of field. Occasionally it's annoying to load something like a slower slide film, since due to the amount of exposures you'll be locked in for a long time, and probably won't be able to shoot with the camera at all while the weather conditions aren't suitable. I've also shot a few rolls of expired slide which had gone bad, and the results were unusable due to color shift. It's annoying when you get ~36 exposures like that, but ~80 ruined exposures is a bit more disappointing.

Scanning can be a bit of an issue, I only have a V600 which isn't great for 35mm, so it's even worse for half frame. Printing in the darkroom I get far better and sharper results. I should probably invest in a ~35mm enlarger lens for half frame whenever I get my home darkroom up and running.

Oh yeah, one more thing - these cameras can apparently be quite frail, and they're not easy to get fixed as they are quite complex. My FV for example just broke during normal usage while I was traveling, the film advance just stopped working halfway through a roll.
>>
Did you guys snag your copy of jvpes’ latest zine? Looks like an absolute BANGER. Super juiced for mine to come in the mail!

#minoltagang

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Kodak Gold 200
Started off with a Retinette A1 but soon upgraded. Since last year i own an Olympus OM10 w. Manual Adapter and Standard 50mm Zuiko Lens. I was always into photography but i like the feeling of analogue more, it has this character to it which digital hasn't for me.

i bought myself a scanner because i was dissapointed with the digitized versions of my film - both labs gave me images with a resolution of ~1400*1200 AND a filesize of >1MB

So far i love doing this myself - as i have total control except for the developing!


hope you like it, (resized though)
cheers

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>>3502364
The only issue i saw was scratched up or dusty film. Not really an issue though and may even look cool with black and white film. I'll have to plan a trip there and get some shots myself
>>
>>3502264
Your scan looks fine, just need to clean up the neg beforehand. The v550 sucks at scanning 135 film.
>>
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>>3502364
Here is a Gold 200 sample at 3200 DPI. I shoot almost entirely with Gold 200 because it is by far the cheapest film you can get where I live.

Positives:
• pleasant colour rendition
• cheap
• contrast is just about right
• no strong colour cast
Negatives:
• soft
• noisy
• scanning beyond 1600 DPI doesn't really win much extra detail

It's a film that's generally most appropriate for users of SLRs with a fast 50mm prime in order to feed it with lots of light. It's only good in compacts with slow (or zoom) lenses in strong daylight. It trounces C200 and Colorplus by being significantly better on all fronts (colour cast, contrast, and resolution) but is not as good as Superia.

If you have the choice (which I do not), you should generally buy something better unless Gold 200 is really cheap in comparison, or you like the aesthetic.

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>>3501922
What camera / film was this taken with? Nice shot
>>
I want some classic MF slr to accompany my F90x. I want something that is not f-mount nikon for some variety in shooting. My budged is 50-80 USD for both camera and lens(i want some 50mm). My main variants are - minolta x370, praktica bca(can easily obtain in my slavstan for pennies), fujica st605, srt101, pentax spotmatic(dunno if fits in my budget). Which one should i get? Propose your own suggestions if you want
>>
>>3502423
>The v550 sucks at scanning 135 film.
Shit. Well I got it cheap so it's not a problem, but what would have been better if I wanted to upgrade one day?
>>
>>3502505
Also, i'm considered getting m42 praktica's. Any opinion on them? Reliable or it's shit like zenit?
>>
>>3502505
>minolta x370
>srt101
I'm really familiar with these ones.
x370 is lighter, srt101 more reliable but heavy as a tank
x370 has aperture priority and manual, srt101 is fully manual
x370 has LED light meter, srt101 has match-needle meter
x370 uses regular batteries and meter is spot on, srt101 uses a 1.35v mercury battery no longer manufactured, alternative is a zinc-air 1.4v cell and the meter is off by a little (you get used to it after a few rolls)
x370 has electronic shutter, so it's quite precise, srt101 is all mechanical so it might need maintenance to get it back in proper timings after all these years
x370 has split prism+microprisms band for focusing, srt101 only microprisms band, although I find it easier and quicker to focus with it as the center split-prism can get a bit distracting. for shooting wide open/narrow DoF the split-prism is safer to nail proper focus.
both can mount the same exact lenses.

I love both cameras and use them frequently. they have their own charm. only reason I lean more towards the x370 is because it's lighter and more comfortable to carry and shoot.
>>
>>3502505
>>3502527
srt 201 is another good option. The trade off between the 101 is hot-shoe, but no mirror lock-up. No other real differences that I noticed
>>
>>3502263
>it's pretty nice giving zero fucks about the camera you're using because of how easily replaceable it is
absolutely 2nd

also kino pic, cheers
>>
>>3502538
there are actually two versions of the srt201. the 2nd version does have a better focusing screen with split-image prism center, but has an, arguably "downgraded", single cell metering system, rather than the multi-cell averaging meter of the earlier ones. it's easily identifiable because it lacks the CLC badge on the front, over the lens, and has a black plastic meter coupling ring around the mount instead of shiny metal. nevertheless it's still a pretty good camera. some people like the meter best on these later SRT cameras because it feels more like center-weighted like on other camera brands.
>>
>>3502571
that's good to know, my meter is busted on my 201 so I've been doing sunny 16 or an external meter so it doesn't make too much of a difference to me. A split prism focusing screen would be nice though
>>
>>3502604
>meter is busted on my 201
high chance it's just the needle stuck. had that happen to an srt100x. easy fix if you're careful enough to reach it.
fixoldcameras guy has a video about that and one on how to remove the top cover and prism.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q-OUEYKwtyU
while you're there you can also carefully clean the prism and focus screen off all the gunk from the old foam around.
>>
>>3502363
>A few ten thousand shots
What possesses someone to call 20,000-30,000 shots “a few”?

Even consistently shooting 3 35mm rolls/week all year round, it takes 5-6 years to hit 30,000.
Most non pro film cameras don’t have such shutter counts even after 30-40 years of service.
>>
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>>3502508
I'm using a CanoScan FS4000US I got new in box from Craigslist. I like it a lot. Just check ebay or your local Craigslist regularly and eventually something will pop up.

Pic is a 4000dpi scan from the scanner.

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>>3502345
>>3502361
>>3502368
Step up your half frame game, bros.
>>
>>3502629
who gave that bish that big stupid watch
>>
>>3501630
Damn, I'm in the same boat. Sucks to suck.
>>
>>3502630
that one is even harder to find, let alone in proper working condition
>>
>>3502284
I scanned with an epson v800, invesion is done in silverfast. And yeah I think with a warming filter isn't too necessary or useful on c41 since so much of the white balance and color correction is handled in the scan, whereas you can't do the same for slides.

I shot a few more pictures today on velvia 50 to compare warming filter effects, on a more overcast day. Hopefully I can share them soon if I can get it to a lab soon.
>>
>>3501385
>>3501402
Found a nice one for ~120$, with 50 1.7 included. Think I'm gonna go for it, even though it's chrome... wish me luck lads.
>>
>>3502630
>Expensive
>No light meter
>>
>>3502753
>poorfag
>can't into sunny 16
>>
>>3502263
T-cameras are fucking wonderful from a results perspective.
Fucking awful to look at, listen to, control manually though.

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>>3502378
kill your whole self you giant faggot
>>
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Hey so I'm extremely new to analog photography and I'm trying to figure out what 35mm camera I should get first. I'm not looking for anything great to start off with so I'm not trying to spend more than like $50 for the camera itself. I see there are plenty of vintage working cameras for sale, anything wrong with grabbing one of those? Like I said, just trying to get my feet wet to see if I even like working with film since I'm used to digital.
>>
>>3502829
If you mean the Smena, go ahead but don't pay more than $10 for one. Also only in the case you enjoy having a horrible time loading film. That said it is probably the most reliable Soviet camera ever made and about the only one of them a newbie should even consider. Never consider Zorki/Fed/Zenit until you know what you're doing.

Grab some cheap decent amateur SLR like Minolta XG-1 (or XG-9 if you're willing to spend a bit more) that lacks the hipster cred. You can also get Ricoh and Konica SLRs for dirt cheap.
>>
>>3502619
> Even consistently shooting 3 35mm rolls/week all year round, it takes 5-6 years to hit 30,000.
Right, even somewhat casual hobby use for 5-6 years lets you hit 30k.

In fact you only shooting 3 rolls a week is probably mostly a financial or time issue if you actually go out with your camera and shoot. If this constraint wasn't there, you'd shoot more even as a hobbyist.
>>
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I really want to start shooting slides but I'm afraid I won't expose them correctly and won't be able to scan them properly with my Epson V600, Anybody got tips for this slide noob?
>>
>>3502854
Bracket your exposures to start, but really what you should do is cop a incident light meter.
>>
Minolta x370 with 50 1.7 or praktica bca with 50 1.8?
>>
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>>3502845
Thank you for the informative response. The whole "hipster" thing doesn't bother me too much since I kinda like the look of the older stuff. I will certainly take a look around for the other cameras you mentioned though. The other camera I was possibly considering is a Agfa Isoflash-Rapid. I found one for $20 and figured it may be worth grabbing. Any specific thoughts on one of these?
>>
>>3502884
Like the Smena but worse.
>>
>>3502898
good to know
>>
>>3501821
How much are you selling for?
>>
>>3502854
I think you worry a bit too much. I shot a roll of Provia 100f with an old Bessa 66 folder and a basic selenium meter and it turned out fine.
>>
>>3502846
>In fact you only shooting 3 rolls a week is probably mostly a financial or time issue if you actually go out with your camera and shoot. If this constraint wasn't there, you'd shoot more even as a hobbyist.
Depends on the person anon. I mean, I have my phone on me. And also an x100 on a loan from a friend. I don’t shoot appreciably more with either. Maybe I’ll bracket some shots cause why not while on film I’d me more careful and take a single exposure, but that’s about it.
Maybe depends what you started on and formed your habits.

For instance, sometimes after shooting medium format for a couple days, a 35mm roll feels too long.

Anyway, the cost of film is not the main issue. A good film is 7-8$, and if it takes you just 1 hour to scan it, even at minimum wage, you “exceeded” the cost of film. But it’s a hobby so you I don’t count my time as an expense.
Aso paper. Even if you print a quarter of your shots, you paper costs will probably surpass your film costs.

So when you say 30,000 shots, my mind goes to the fucklot of time it would take me to develop, scan and print those. That’s why I find it unrealistic. And printing digitally on good paper and inks isn’t any cheaper.

I don’t think I’m alone on that. Even pro film cameras didn’t get these many clicks in their whole lives, let alone a hobbyist doing it in 5-6 years.
>>
>>3502877
minolta x370 because it has manual mode, not just aperture priority as the praktica. also because minolta lenses are cheap, easy to find and really good. the MD50/1.7 is a pretty sweet lens.
>>
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>>3502378
Hey WHAT'S gucci #minoltagang

Hehe

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Hello my dudes,

I recently broke my Olympus Mju ii and I can't bring myself to pay the prices they are going for now.

Can someone recommend any alternatives that won't break the bank?
>>
>>3502984
Fujifilm quicksnap
>>
>>3502984
Not on topic at all, but what is the appeal to point and shoots? Theres clearly a demand for them, but i dont understand why when SLR's are generally both better and cheaper. No hate or anything, do what makes you happy and inspires your creativity.
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>>3502854
I agree with the other anon, you don't need to worry so much. And the only way to learn to expose it properly is to shoot it at all. Try to pick lower contrast scenes if you want to be sure. Overcast and such.

Pic related, Provia 100 shot on an XA2.

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Developing the last of rolls from last weekend. I found a roll of hp5 mystery film in my old stuff, deving that next.

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>>
>>3503021
Small, integrated flash.
>>
>>3502984
The prices of everything have increased ridiculously to the point that lesser known "almost as good as the big name models but without the premium" choices like the Pentax Espio Mini, Konica Big Mini or Nikon L35AF and so on are now in the ~100+ euro price bracket, so if you want something as cheap as you got your Mju II before they got expensive, you'll have to look in less conventional places.

My recommendation is the Nikon AF600 if you'd like to change things up a bit and go for a wider angle, or perhaps the Canon MC which has a 35mm f/2.8 lens like your Mju II, but is a bit less foolproof in terms of autofocus.
>>
>>3503021
ease of operation, size, and 'the look' (if that means anything)
>>
>>3503050
Wtf? I’ve never seen a tank like that.
>>
>>3501649
Ooooh that is a nice set up, very jealous of all that equipment. Do you print RA4 too ?
>>
>>3502984
Oly AF-1 Super. The same lens in a little bulkier but weatherproof and tanky body.
>>
>>3503021
most hipsters and normalfags can't into basic exposure so full retard automatic are appealing to them. manual SLRs are scary with their aperture, shutter speed and focus controls.
oh, and also because they're more pocketable.
>>
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>>3503050
I love mystery film it's always so exciting to see what's on the roll. Here's a frame from a roll of Kodak Gold 400 that was in a camera i purchased at a car boot sale

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>>3500946
is it worth it?
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>>3503114
It's a Jobo tank, used in rotary processing. Very nice system, rotary processing is very economical and super easy since the machine keeps all the chemicals at the right temperature and has an inbuilt timer. Genius machines
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>>3503185
True, but I have more sense than money, so I use my hands, a diy temperature controlled water bath, and my phone as a timer. As its summer and ambient is above my dev temp I just through in some ice every now and then to keep a steady 20c

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>>3503148
As it turns out the mystery film was from the same event but only one year earlier! I was wondering for ages to what happened to it. Shame though, due to the delay between exposure and dev the negative came out a bit flat but still useable.
>>
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>>3501693
I have 30 rolls of Ultrafine Xtreme coming, a Mix of 100, 400 and 400 TGrain. Also ordered 10 more P3200 and a 5 pack for Fujifilm Pro 400H.
>>
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Are these worth $100 and do they make decent starter cameras?
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>>3503192
Gimme dat ektar.
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Just took X-tra 400 out from camera and bought few new rolls. I might shoot next Ultramax or Ektar.
>>
>>3503195
I'd say none of the 60's to early 70's all-electric rangefinders are good beginner cameras and certainly not worth $100. Just grab a cheap SLR to have a go at it, fixed lens cameras are something you pick when you already have a clear idea of what kind of photography you're going for.
>>
>>3503320
Sounds good to me, thanks
>>
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A friend of mine just gave me a lot of free expired film and I'm not sure what to expect. I already shot a Delta 3200 and a Reala 100, and I'll get the negs later today. Most of it spent its life frozen and a few years just stored at room temp after that. I mean i've shot expired film before with no issues but these expired around 12 years ago lmao

What's been the oldest expired film y'all have ever shot and gotten decent results?
>>
Ever wonder where the stopbath fucks off to from trays during a printing session? I think I've figured it out: it goes in the film stop bottle.

Jeez.
>>
>>3503353
3200 speed film doesn't age well. Rest of that stuff should be fine, you'll get some colour cast with the Provia.

I shot some freezer stored Velvia that was five years expired and no colour cast on propery exposed photos. I had to bracket though, and looking at my notes from those rolls the best slides weren't necessarily shot at settings what my incident meter was telling me.
>>
>>3503320
Yeah, that’s definitely high for an electro 35. They’re well built, and the lens is pretty good, but you’re stuck with aperture priority, discontinued batteries, and high risk of a common electrical fault.
>>
>>3501895
the one you have with u
>>
>>3501895

Bring the Minolta. More varied lenses with it.

I’d recommend you look into the 35-75 mm f/ 3.5 Macro for your Minolta too. It is one of the few film era zoom lenses that are still good by today’s standards. It was actually produced in a partnership with Leica and was released for their R-mount too.
>>
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I will be getting one of these for free in a few days. Anyone here personally use one of these before?
>>
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My local camera store is closing for good and I got the last of my left over film developed... now what?
>>
>>3503488
No, because we're not morons who would pay money for a vehicle reversing camera in a plastic casing with an F-- grade screen attached to it.
>>
>>3503131
The Minolta AF-C is smaller than that and has a higher quality lens and overall design. Probably not weatherproof though.
>>
How do you all resize your pictures? Any preferred sizes?
>>
>>3502629
What film is that?
>>
>>3503508
Try to choose a 1 / a factor of two to help interpolation.
>>
>>3503510
im not very good at math
>>
>>3503497
take pics of the inside of the store to memorialize it
>>
I got some Fuji 800, Ektar 100, and Ilford 3200, I've never shot any of them before. Fuji will be fine because I usually shoot 400, but any tips for the other 2?
>>
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Thoughts on the zorki 4? I haven't shot a full manual camera before and there's an ebay listing i'm watching, ending fairly soon and wanted to give it a go.
>>
>>3502961
> I mean, I have my phone on me. And also an x100 on a loan from a friend.
That is kind-of my point. You already aren't doing just film and you'd naturally switch further towards digital if you shot more.

> Anyway, the cost of film is not the main issue.
And of a good scanner. You forgot that one. This is also the reason why you'd spend 1h scanning a roll of film and even time-wise not feel like doing it for 3 rolls+ each weekend.

But back when grandma didn't have a choice, she definitely easily shot that much film, mostly on trips and events. And then she made albums (also for a while, she put ~35 rolls of 35mm negatives into index albums for cut strips).

About professionals: I recall war and travel photographers mentioning they pack at least 150-200 rolls of film for 1-2 months of shooting - more if possible. Wouldn't you shoot 200 or so shots a day to try and make it worth your time? But that was in the film age, too. Now you obviously probably wouldn't bother.
>>
Is vuescan worth the money? I bought a second-hand plustek 7200 (read as no silverfast) and the 'quick scan' shit is pretty difficult to get satisfying results from.
>>
>>3503542
If you're really good at tinkering cameras and don't mind it suddenly failing without any warning whatsoever.
>>
>>3503550
They just randomly fail?
>>
>>3503547
> Is vuescan worth the money
Yes. It's not that expensive and the software is effective - lots of good settings that can be used to save time.

Plus unlike the anyhow very expensive Silverfast it's not tied to one damn scanner or a limited upgrade license. And it even supports Linux.

Basically it's cheap nice software, test it - you'll probably want to buy it.
>>
>>3503552
Zorkis, Feds and Zenits all use the same copied Leica shutter mechanism which is delicate and does not age well when combined with Soviet sub-par materials and the quality of their lubricants, so they are very prone of shutter failures which usually happen without warning. The way to prevent this is competent CLA, but most of the Zorkis etc. on the market are not CLA'd (don't believe every seller claiming they have). Only way to make sure is to do it yourself, if you can.
>>
>>3503556
Is a good CLA difficult or particularly costly?
>>
>>3503553
different anon here. vuescan website says I need the Pro $90 version to "Enable Film/Slide Scanning". do you actually need the Pro version to scan film? because $90 doesn't sound like cheap software to me.
>>
>>3503561
>I need the Pro $90 version to "Enable Film/Slide Scanning". do you actually need the Pro version to scan film?
I think so.

> because $90 doesn't sound like cheap software to me.
I guess that's subjective to having to pay 300-500Eur to get full Silverfast (more with the extras) and then about half as much with every major release vs a not device locked lifetime license of vuescan.

Probably not among the big expenses if you maintain a full set of software. The software with frequently recurring costs or subscriptions is.
>>
>>3503509
Ektar 100
>>
>>3503561
There is always pirated copies if you feel like you need to cheap out at the software stage.
>>
>>3503557
For a Zorki? Not worth it. For a Leica? Very much so. Soviet cameras besides Smena and Lubitel are only for those who know what they're doing and enjoy a challenge. If you're just looking for a camera, get something else.
>>
>>3503581
Any recommendations for a fully manual camera to look into instead?
>>
>>3503583
Any 60's to 70's SLR. M42 mount offers a ton of decent options with Fujica and Spotmatic I'm the higher end and Praktica in the budget tier. Konica Autoreflex series is also an overlooked and therefore affordable choice as long as you don't mind a camera that outweighs a bowling ball. Or the Canon FT QL, which comes with a ton of lens options.
>>
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>>3503583
Not them but Canon P ez
>>
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Just got my dad's old A1, it was stored somewhere shitty so I'm getting it restored at some jap place here in NYC since I want to keep something my father had.

Lo and behold the 50mm 1.4 it came with was not worth saving and had trees growing inside it.

Best FD lenses I should get with this? 50mm and some sort of telephotoish zoom like the 80-200mm.
Which version should I get for the 50mm and should I get that zoom?
>>
>>3503599
Just make sure to get a constant aperture zoom. If you can't find a Canon one, the 3.5/70-210 Tamron SP is also a good option. Weighs a ton though.
>>
>>3503568
but it's not a fair comparison. I mean, most silverfast Ai studio extra features can't even be used by the 8100, let alone the older 7200. I think a more fair comparison would be with silverfast SE plus, which is around $110 and the one shipped with the plusteks.
the thing is, with the price of a brand new plustek 8100, with silverfast se plus included, being anywhere from $200 to $250 on sale (I paid $196 on amazon for mine), buying an old used 7200 for around $120 (according to ebay) and then having to pay $90 for vuescan kinda defeats the whole purpose.
granted, if you get the old plustek for around 50 bucks then it makes full sense to get vuescan rather than silverfast because fuck silverfast (although it's pretty good to quickly pump out mid-res JPEG scans with it's NegaFix and WB features).

anyway, I was looking for a software to quickly dump RAWs off the plustek 8100 to process on photoshop CC, as silverfast is a pain to use, and at seemingly $40 vuescan felt like a good option, but now seeing I have to drop an extra $50 for the pro version just to have the film support makes me think it twice. silverfast shit awful workflow doesn't look that bad now if I'm keeping $90 in my pocket.
>>
>>3503603
Just torrent a crack version you nonce
>>
>>3503497
get a patterson tank, chemical kit and film scanner.
>>
>>3503599
I'd stick with first part lenses. For the 50 get the 1.4 S.S.C it's the best price to performance. If you want full meme bokeh any of the 55 1.2s are great but pricey. As for zooms i don't really know but there is an 80-200 f/4. Canon has a list of all cameras/lenses they every made on there website it's pretty cool.
https://global.canon/en/c-museum/product_search_result.html?t=lens&s=fd&sort=new
>>
>tfw my intrepid 4x5 has been in order for 9 weeks now
>meant to be ready today or tomorrow but heard nothing
I can’t wait any longer reeeeeeee

>>3500906
>>3501155
Good shit, where can I follow you Velvianon?
>>
>>3502768
Ya, I never use it in manual mode. If I want to shoot manual I take the F-1.

T70 + Provia

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>>3503610
Hmm guess I'll get the new FD 50 1.4 and the 70-210 new FD

Waiting to get the body back before I pull ze trigger.

Fuck man I want to get the 70-200 for my digital canon too
>>
>>3503599
I agree with the other anons about the 50mm 1.4, if you're looking for a zoom both there's the tokina 80-200 2.8 and a tamron adaptall 80-200 2.8 (expect to pay about £150-£200 on eBay).

I'd also pick up a 24mm 2.8 for a wide.
>>
>>3503599
nFD 50mm 1.4 hands down. the 1.8 is not bad, but it has that pentagonal bokeh that gets quite annoying.
>>
>>3503512
Halve or quarter the original resolution - 6000x4000 (24mpx) -> 3000x2000 or 1500x1000. This reduces a 2x2 or 4x4 pixel area to 1 pixel, requiring no resampling of the pixels, just averaging of a group of 4 or 16.
>>
>>3502237
Without filter has a significantly better range of colour. With filter renders the blues as greys, so the only colours left really are a fairly narrow spectrom from moss green to pine green.

>>3502244
>>3502271
Film EOS cameras are quite practical, but there are very few good old lenses, apart from the older L lenses which are still very expensive. The models aren't very diverse either. There's no small model with quality construction, and it took them until the end of the 90's to work out that making their lens mounts out of plastic for everything short of the advanced models was a bit too shitty. The counterpoint is that it's the only system where you can really use fun modern stuff like image stabilized high-end zooms on film, which makes it pretty cool if you're the type who really likes to invest money and plan out a shot with heavy equipment, but I'm more of a believe that film in the 21st century is for snapshitting mostly.
>>
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So I'm new to scanning, whats the best workflow from a raw scan?

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Had a lot of fun with one of those waterproof disposables the other day.

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>>3503726
>but I'm more of a believe that film in the 21st century is for snapshitting mostly
that's exactly why they're so great. you can pick one up with lens for $15 and go anywhere snapshitting without giving a shit about the camera getting damaged or stolen.
>>
>>3503726

> it's the only system where you can really use fun modern stuff like image stabilized high-end zooms on film

Both Minolta (i.e. - Sony) and Nikon have bodies that support modern lenses.
>>
>>3503101
>Mju ii
Thank you!!
>>
>>3503795
as far as I know, all canon lens technologies are independent of the body. that is, you can use IS on ancient 650 bodies.
with minolta and nikon only the very last generation bodies are fully compatible with the new techs.
>>
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>>3503761

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>>3503812

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>>3503720
What if the place that does my developing and scans does my dimensions weird? They are 3601x2433 for landscape and reversed for portrait.
>>
>>3503735
This is pretty
>>3503761
>>3503812
>>3503814
Cool shots
>>
>>3503812
>>3503814
This just gave me a shit ton of new ideas to try out. Forgot they made disposable underwater cameras.
>>
I wasn’t helping my mom clean some stuff out and found 12 rolls of undeveloped film. Hype to see more family photos.

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>>3503892

>inb4 it is your conception orgy
>>
>>3503892
Whats that one on the left? Rebranded store film?
>>
>>3503189
For B&W that's more than sufficient, temperature becomes quite a bit more important with C41/E6 as I'm sure you're aware. Jobo / Rotary systems are ideal for those formats
>>
>>3503916
Mitsubishi

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You know what it is new gay shit
>>3504057
>>3504057
>>3504057
>>3504057
>>3504057
>>
>>3503932
I've used the same format for colour too with great results. My thermometer is accurate to .2C, and I just have hot water to hand to maintain temp. Jobo processors are ideal, but they are not mandatory for home processing. With basic tools and good technique you can go a long way before having to buy more equipment.
>>
>>3502753
Has a meter, stoops.

>>3502676
It's not that hard to find. There's always some on eBay. It may not be as cheap as some other cameras, but the ability to switch between full and half frame any time and access to a very wide assortment of lenses maker it worth a few measly c-notes. My broke ass was able to afford one, so anyone could.
>>
>>3501385
Pentax mx ticks all the boxes, loads of lenses to choose from, slapped a 40mm pancake on mine.



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