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File: HP5TX4002.jpg (425 KB, 934x934)
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tri-x vs hp5+ edition

Old thread: >>3436432
All analog/film photography related questions and general discussion on film photography is to take place in this thread.
35mm, 120, medium format, large format, C41, E6, B&W, developing, scanning, labs, darkroom etc.
Feel free to post photos, we want to see that beautiful grainy goodness!

>posting in /fgt/ doesn't make you gay, unless you prefer Rollei Retro 400s over both Tri-X and HP5+

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>>3445411
*blocks your path*
>>
The colors on slide film never cease to amuse me

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>>
>>3445424
Have fun getting that on the reel after you've shot it.
>>
>>3445411
Dumb edition, Tri-X is a no-contest winner
>>
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>>3445451
*blocks your path*
>>
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HP5 with Leica M6

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>>
Pushed HP5
>>
I’ve got some ultrafine 400 on the way. Any of you shoot that before?
>>
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>>3445501

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>>3445503
>>
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>>3445503

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>>3445505

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>>
Lucky SHD100 is nice stuff

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I recently re-skinned the leather on my xd11
>>
>>3445522
killer black on red m8
the black XD looks great with any color leather.

XD + rokkor 45mm is a pretty good combo
>>
>>3445526
Thanks m80, the original synthetic leather was shrunken and worn through in some places. I can now probably sell it for much more then what i bought it for. Never going to do that though this camera was always my most favorite out of my collection
>>
how many of you gayfaggots larp on r/analog?
>>
>set up tripod in front of window with long ass lens, teleconverter and hood
>aim at birds and stuff like that
>neighbour saw me
does he think i'm creeping on women?
>>
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>>3445436

slide film is kewl
>>
OLD THREAD
>>3440453
>>3440453
>>3440453
>>3440453
>>3440453

Fuck sorry guys I fucked the sticky
>>
>>3445436
>>3445583
>tfw you've been waiting over 2 months for the lab to develop 2 rolls of slides
Life is sufferin
>>
>>3445498
I'm pretty sure Ultrafine is just rebranded ADX/Arista/whatever stuff. It's cheap, its decent quality, and if you bulk load than it's close to free
>>
Is there a lab in Europe that does development + high resolution scan and just email the scanned images at affordable price?

I don't really care about getting my low quality negatives back but most lab I come across, even big ones like fotoimpex only scan images at resolution worse than facebook (1228x1818px for 120 film, what the fuck?) and insist on emailing me a CD for an absurd price.

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>>
>>3445621
>I don't really care about getting my low quality negatives back
That's a really bad idea anon.

My idea would be to not spend any money on scanning for sometime, say for 20-25 rolls. Once you have that backlog, for the cost of scanning you buy a Plustek for €260 and you're set. Even with affordable labs, scanning is never gonna be worth it financially. It's only worth it if you don't have time at all or your time is super valuable.
>>
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Guys i have pic related
>ilford surveillance 400 p3
i need a reciepe for hc-110 e.i. 400
saw some guy shooting this film and developing the H dilution 1:63 @ 10 min
so it's basicly like hp5 reciepe

Do you think i can copy the B Dilution 1:32
and treat it like hp5 ?
so 1:63 @ 5 min ??
>>
>>3445506
Really like this one
>>
>>3445621
meinfilmlab.de
prices are ok, service is good and the quality of the scans is really nice
>>
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>>3445583
I can thoroughly agree with your statement.

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>>3445592
Whenever I do not process my own, I always send it to Fujifilm, using one of their pre-paid mailers and I typically get it back in about 8 days.

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>>
>>3445436
>>3445653
What does she smell like?
>>
>>3445723
Cotton candy and lucky panties
>>
>>3445726
Is not me

>>3445723
She typically smells like either vanilla or red velvet cake, as those are her favorite prefume scents, but I have a really bad sense of smell so I usually do not notice what she smells like.
>>
you know what would be nice? a SilverFast keygen
>>
>>3445614
>>3445498
Actually I stand corrected, people on rangefinderforum are saying its Kentmere, which is Ilford. Either way its a good film for it's price.

>>3445739
Vuescan, nigga
>>
>>3445653
I'll probably do that next time, then. Either that or look a developing my own, but I'd have to buy all the supplies. Beats waiting so fucking long (and for so fucking much, too: 20$ a roll!)
>>
>>3445754
>Vuescan
thanks meight
found a crack and keygen right away
>>
>>3445739
It's tied to your scanner model, like precise model version, even if the hardware is the same.
>>
Does anyone know of an alternative 35mm film holder that would work with my epson 600? The one that comes with it is pretty shit and if the film has cupped at all then lines appear in the scan like pic related.

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>>3445754
Nice. Sounds like it’s quite the bang for the buck.
>>
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>>3445866
seconded, preferably a cheaper solution than the betterscanning holders, I don't own a v600, just use it at school.
>>
>>3445451
I freeze it and then load onto reels without thawing, really helps.
>>
File: 2019-03-06-0002.jpg (1017 KB, 3881x2586)
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Rodinal + TMax 400 looks nice

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>>
Car wash with kodak ultramax400
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>3445634
Sure you can do that but idk how good it'll be, or you can either do the dunk test https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8J7G6ZMb48w
Or find developing times for another film on the massive dev chart (one that also shows time for hc-110) that has the same developing times as this film https://www.digitaltruth.com/chart/search_text.php?Film=Ilford+Surveillance
>>
>>3445872
A pile of very heavy books and a few days of time.
>>
is all film on amazon unexpired?

this guy managed to find some unexpired...for cheap

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zyFXFKkMifI


where do you reliably find unexpired film?

i don't want to play iso guesswork especially being new to film
>>
>>3445548
If you think that then he does.
>>
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>>3445957
if you're in North America just buy from B&H.

you can buy cheap stuff like fuji c200 or kodak gold or whatever from lots of places though, it shouldn't be expired anywhere unless it's explicitly mentioned in the listing.


I've gone a few months without developing a roll, finally have 3 or 4 to get sorted out tomorrow which will feel good. Winter fucking blows.

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I'm thinking of getting a used CanoScan 9000F, review says its a bit better than the Epson V600 and is priced lower. Is there a better scanner at ~$150 price?
>>
>>3445957
Most film isnt bad unless its SEVERAL years out of date. Like a month or two is find and you save some $$$ desu the problem I've had with Amazon is either getting the wrong film or they send me film that's damaged??? Like I get Bezos is a slave driver but fuck man, how is anyone gonna use film that's been pulled out or with a broken container.
>>
>>3445987
>Is there a better scanner at ~$150 price?
A used Plustek 8100. Don't even bother with cheap scanners
>>
>>3445991
>plustek 8100
Seems expensive even used. I'm buying developing equipment and chemicals as well so I just want a budget scanner to see my results.

Eventually I will move on to scanning with digital camera anyway when I can afford a longer macro lense and a good scanning setup.
>>
>>3446007

8200 outperforms a DSLR. Also much easier to use, though slower.
>>
I own an automatic Pentax FX7 roll camera which always worked great, but today after I came back to see my latest developed photos I noticed that 12 of them were missing... I checked the negatives and found out that all photos from 3 to 14 were totally missing from the reel! I remember I took lots of photos and used the whole reel, does somebody know what the fuck could have happened?

I used a 3 months old Kodak 200 film if it might help.
>>
>>3446028
Because you only took one picture
>>
>>3446030
>I remember I took lots of photos and used the whole reel

>You only took one picture

Are you fuckin' serious m8?
Anyway, after the blank space there are more photos until the end of the film, so it's impossible that I didn't take photos for all that time.
>>
>>3446031
It's probably the shutter getting stuck
>>
I asked this in an earlier thread and didn't get any useful replies, so I'll try again;
I have a bunch of Kodachrome25 that I want to shoot and develop in b&w. It was purchased by accident.
I have Rodinal and ID11 in the house, but I guess I'd be willing to buy a third b&w dev for this. Ilford RapidFix is my usual fixer.
Actually, I have some Tetenal E6 as well if that would work any better.
Looking for some dev and fix times for it.

>>3446028
>>3446031
There's most likely a problem with your camera like the other anon said. Most of the negs in your pic look entirely unexposed. Fire it off with the back open and see if you can tell if the shutter is working properly. Maybe the shutter curtain is fucked or maybe the mirror isn't flipping. Try it at different shutter speeds too. The faster ones are usually the first to fail at least on curtain shutters.

>>3445874
I will definitely try that. If it works I owe you a beer.
>>
>>3445876
I think that grain looks like ass but ok. I've only liked T-max 400 in Xtol but it looks great with that.
>>
>>3446076
Xtol is best developer for T-grain films. Pyrocat-HD comes in close second.
>>
>>3446076
Well, Rodinal was designed for cubic grain *and* slow film.
TMax is both t-grain and fast. The only more incompatible look could be Delta 3200 in Rodinal.

But if someone digs the look, it’s up to them.
>>
>>3445866
is that some newton's rings?
>>
>>3445866
You're getting those newton's rings due to the film coming into contact with the glass. I use the film holders that came with my V550 and I was running into the same problem. I flipped the film so that the curve of the negative was not contacting the glass of the scanner. Of course, this causes the image to be mirrored, you'll have to flip it horizontally in post.
>>
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Hey!

I've just DSLR scanned few slides, for test and stuff. What do you think about the overall quality of the scan?

The original file is 3787x3787 px, so much more than any lab around me could give me (I usually get pathetic 1000x1000). I've uploaded this one bigger, should you want to get a closer look for some reason.
I'm still experimenting with my cheap-ass setup. This time I used 12 W COB LED dispersed through the dining plate. Surprisingly it worked, but I still have a vignette and I will continue to search cheap-ass dispersing technique. It might be my Yashica Mat 124 too, that I don't know.

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>>
>>3446189
Nice, so there is no problem with having the emulsion side facing the glass then? I hadn't tried this yet.
>>
do you fags have any discord?
or any /p/ee discord?
>>
>>3446200
No problems that I can see at least. Since flipping the negatives, I really like my scans.
>>
>>3446201
Why not just post what you want to discuss?
>>
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>>3446201
yeah, https://discord.gg/9mvgqkK
>>
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>>3446202
nice... very nice. I still wish I could dry these rolls without them cupping at all though. I'm hoping a squeegee will help.

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>>
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>>3446222
Glad I could help. Have some neon shot on 35mm Ektar 100.

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>>3446226
And some ektar for you, for your time my guy.

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>>
Is there any sticky/intro reading material you guys recommend for someone who wants to get into shooting Analog? Camera recommendations and shooting techniques is what I'm kinda looking for.
>>
>>3446190
looks pretty good anon, I agree that the vignetting is probably the light source. If you can find an old light table, those tend to work very well.
>>
>>3446228
Dig those reds. I’m more of a portra guy, but ektar can look very good too.
>>
>>3446244
One roll I like portra better, one I think Ektar is genius. Then I look at both and just think I may as well shoot tri X since my rate of keepers is better.
>>
>>3446190
>>3446243
Yes, that scan is sharp af. Envious.
>>
>>3446222
>I'm hoping a squeegee will help.
It's more likely to do damage rather than help.

Your best bet is weighted clips, so they film is kept at straight as possible while drying.
After that, it depends on the emulsion, mostly the base used and the gelatin layer.
Some films dry absolutely straight, some curl like motherfuckers.

Most films are ok if they're dried straight with weighted clips, some are excellent (usually the ones coated in clear polyester base, like Rollei Retro line), some are horrible (Lucky, some oldschool emulsions from smaller brands, etc.).
>>
>>3446237
OP here,
http://istillshootfilm.org/beginners-guide-film-photography
Is under Guides and Tutorials in the /p/ sticky and should be a good intro into Analog photography. I'll make sure to include this link in future /fgt/s.
As for actual books to read I can recommend the series "Life Library of Photography" by Time-Life Books, specially the book titled "The Art of Photography".
>>
>>3446269
Curling isn’t an issue, but even with weighted clips, wetting agents, and dry winter air the whole length of the roll is cupped (width wise) except the first part with is hanging from the clip and the last part that is attached to the weighted clip.
>>
>>3446276
Ah looks like I missed it in the sticky. Thanks a lot Anon!
>>
>>3446260
Do you develop and scan your own film? I’ve found that portra negatives invert quite well (compared to cheaper color film stocks). Wondering if ektar is also easy to work with.
>>
>>3446296
I read it as curling.
What's cupping? You mean the sides curl towards the centre? This is usually a sign of high temp during drying. Are you using a drying cabinet?

Also, do you let your films dry completely? Usually they curl this way quite a bit at the first stages of drying, and then mostly even out when they're completely dry.

A squeegee won't help with that issue, because that's happening due to the water absorbed *within* the emulsion, not the water resting on top of it.
You can try though.
>>
>>3446309
Drying conditions are about 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20c), low humidity (winter in northern US) and two rolls developed and dried in the same tank, one hung dried for 3 hours, the other for 24 hours and both had the same sort of cupping. Like you said, imagine the long edged curling in towards the centerline if the whole length of film.
>>
>>3446339
Not dried in the tank* just developed.
>>
>>3446243
>>3446263

I was looking at the light table prices the other day and figured out I will save money DIYing. So far, cable + switch + COB LED + radiator (free) was like $10. I had few problems along the way and I feel vignetting is the last and the hardest one to overcome.

Thanks for the feedback!
>>
>>3446367
Yeah good fucking luck with the diffusion.
>>
>>3446203
because discords are cool and hip
>>
Anyone have a Russian to American ISO chart?
>>
>>3446422
http://www.mdmetric.com/tech/ssgradetable.htm
>>
>>3446423
Thanks!
>>
>>3446422
>>3446423
im fuckin drunk
that's something completely different. try wikipedia

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Film_speed
>>
>>3446007
the dslr is your budget scanner
>>
>>3446007
got a plustek 7500i for 100bux
downloaded vue scan and a crack for it and now I have 200 negs to scan
>>
>>3445480
I like this, really good use of texture anon.
>>
wInTeR wOnDeRlAnD

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>>
>tfw i find an unshot roll of hp5+ in the back of my camera stuff drawer
>>
>>3446454
Brilliant, the rocks in the snow almost look like faces
>>
What regular stores carry film? I went to CVS today and they had nothing. Do they have good prices at walmart?
>>
>>3446483
Kinny drugs sometimes carries expired fujicolor 400 for like $3 per 4 pack. I just cleaned a shelf off earlier this week.
>>
>>3446489
i don't think we have this on the west coast
>>
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i recently started scanning my negatives with a dslr and using negativelapbro.. but i find i'm not even getting that much better results than versus my v600?

the colors are definitely less flat and i guess it's bit better detail but i can't help get the feeling that the stuff i get is nowhere near the quality i see from some other people

shot with yashica t4 on kodak gold 400 i think

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>>
>>3446520
dlsr scanning is a meme
>>
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I haven't seen much reference to Kodak Colorplus 200. I really like how this film stock looks.

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>>
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>>3446571

also: Tri-X 400 ftw

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>>
>>3446520
>>3446571


see this is a typical scan that i compare my results to and i feel like i can just never get the same thing

am i too used to editing digital and trying to go for too much contrast and saturation or what
>>
>>3446571
Comfy photo, love that parrot
>>
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>>3446577
It's hard to say, there are lots of variables with dslr scanning. I've only done a few rolls myself with a slide copier attachment for one of my macro lenses and I gotta say for 35mm that method cuts out a lot of the bullshit. It doesn't exactly wow me against the results I had with my old flatbed but the extra resolution is a really nice bonus.

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>>3446383
Thanks. For my next trick I'll use a screen made from aluminum foil and see where it will get me.
>>
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Does anyone know how to adjust these things? I have a Medis rangefinder that fell down and give inaccurate reading.
>>
>>3446577
As >>3446591 said there are alot of variables, but the most important one is your light source, get yourself a high quality one.
>>
Is lens quality as important for film as it is for digital? I’ve got an EOS film body, and I’d like to get a good wide to short tele zoom for it (eg 24-105). Is getting L glass or similar still worth it, or can I cheap out?

The 24-105 f/4 L goes for ~$500 used, so it’s not insanely expensive...
>>
>>3446766
It's not as important, but you still get about 6-10 megapixels out of a 35mm frame, so you will definitely notice if a lens is soft.
>>
>>3446766
I would definitely call $500 insanely expensive for a lens that you will only use for film. It also depends on what you want to do with the pictures, if you want to just look at your prints and post good ones on your Instagram, just get whatever cheap lens you can find. If you really care about picture quality you wouldn't get such a large zoom anyways, why not something like 24-70 and a 70-200?
>>
Thanks for the input. For now I think I’ll just pick up an older USM zoom. I can always resell later if I want to upgrade.
>>
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Anyone ever have light leaks on a mju-ii? It appears the leak is the top right of the chamber, right behind the shutter button. Tried the flashlight on the seal trick but didn't see anything.
>>
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>>3446793
here's the biggest leak from the roll, the rest are little spots
>>
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>>3446795
>>
>>3446793
>>3446795
>>3446797
That's what you get for falling for the meme
>>
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>>3446811
ya what a waste of $5!
>>
>>3446817
Spend another buck on a roll of electrician's tape and put that on the camera after loading the film.
>>
>>3446822
patrician lightseal on p&s'
>>
>>3446817
stop showing off your (You)'s
>>
>>3446822
Elec-chicken's tape leaves a residue however. Don't want that affecting the resale value of an artistically fucked meme. Use black duct tape instead, it's on a different shelf usually.

>>3446828
The Holga Standard
>>
>>3446817
It really was
>>
>>3446591
>>3446761

yeah the extra resolution is nice but the colors are still just not exactly THERE, you know what i mean? i bought a artograph lightpad 920 lx for like $72 usd, and its pretty bright and seems to be decent quality
>>
>>3446878
I thought the whole point of the holga was the heavy vignetting and light leaks
>>
>>3446884
I bought a 8€ light pad for tracing and a 2mm sheet of white acrylic
Waiting for delivery to see if it works out
>>
I enjoy cleaning out the vile gunk that is 30 years old light seals saturated with alcohol. Gonna replace the door seals and mirror bumper on my pentax ME. Not gonna bother cleaning out the viewfinder and prism cause from what I gather on Google there's a bunch of electronics and wires to go thru before accessing it.

Hopefully I'll get to run a roll thru it to check if the meter is correct. Gonna bring it to my trip to Barcelona this summer. Pretty excited to shoot some shitty fomapan and colorplus
>>
>>3446890
Heavy vignetting is artistic. Preventable light leaks are hipster bullshit. (Tape also helps the back stay on.)
>>
>>3446766
i bought a Canon 28-135mm Image Stabilizer for around $100 on ebay and it's my favorite lens at the moment

there's some barrel distortion at the wide end but there is a lens correction profile for it in lightroom. also it's not fast at f3.5-5.6 but the IS adds another 2 stops

$500+ lenses won't make you any better at taking photos
>>
>>3446904
It’s funny you recommend that to me, because I’ve actually just ordered that very lens. The IS clinched it.
>>
>>3446908
works great on my EOS 620 and my 5D. ken rockwell reviewed it a while back which is what got me interested. have fun with it
>>
>>3446577

I know what you mean. I don't scan my negatives. I have Photoworks SF do it for me. Although I would really like to learn that process. Is it easier than editing digital photos?
>>
Hi Everyone,

I have a Mamiya 645 1000s and I want to use my flash/strobes with it. I bought a PC sync cable, but the cable does not push all the way into the x port on the camera. I don't want to force it and push it really hard and break the port. Am I doing things wrong? Is the cord supposed to plug all the way in?

Thanks
>>
>>3446972
Scanning sucks ass, and don’t let anyone try to convince you otherwise
>>
>>3447001
It truly does, but for me, having to wait to get to work on my images sucks worse.
>>
>>3447002
I used to develop in the employee restroom during my lunch breaks, I wouldn't have time to do it after work
>>
>>3446972
Depends on what scanner you're using. If you've got access to a professional that will do most of the work for you, but if you're using a shitty consumer one you'll have quite a lot of learning to do in order to color correct the scans.
>>
>>3446995
The connection is not "clicky" or very secure, like say a 3.5mm audio jack.
I mean you have the cable already, try and see if the flash fires. If not, push it a bit more. Also check if there's any lint or fluff stuck in the port, use a needle or paperclip to get it out of there is.
>>
>>3447016
This is as far as I can get the cable in. I tried to clean some dust out from the inside of the jack.
>>
>>3447018
>>3447016
>try and see if the flash fires
Is that really that hard to understand? It doesn't matter if it goes in all the way as long as the flash fires.
>>
>>3447018
Not >>3447016 but why not try to see if the flash fires when you press the shutter button. Only way to know for sure if it works.
>>
>>3447019
I tried the flash didn't fire, the flash didn't fire from the hotshoe on top of the prism viewfinder either. The flash does power up and trigger when pushing the test button on it though.
>>
>>3447021
Where did you put the flash when trying it? I noticed that none of my flashes fire triggered via pc when their hotshoe contact sits on metal.
>>
>>3447024
I tried the a PC sync to hotshoe adapter, in case the hotshoe on top of the prism finder is not working. Made sure to put the camera at 1/60 and nothing fired. I've ordered a PC to 3.5mm cord from Amazon, so when it comes in I'll be able to plug it directly into my Godox flash to see if it fires directly.
>>
>>3447018
It looks fine to me.

Are you using a prism? If using a metered prism, you need to set the body shutter dial to the special circle mark, and control shutter speed from the prism.
Flash sync is at 1/60 shutter speed, so try that or slower.
Also clean the prism contacts, sometimes the can accumulate dirt and lose connection.
>>
>>3446793
>>3446822
Don't bother buying tape when you can replace the light seal with the felt from used film canisters
>>
guys you do not have to shoot film now you have this https://www.mastinlabs.com/shop/
>>
So, in a few weeks I'm heading to Colorado to visit a friend. I want to get a few slide film, but am wondering what will be best for a mixture of people and landscapes. Is the new Ektachrome any good? If not, what should I get? Sorry for the newb question, I've almost exclusively used black and white film.
>>
>>3447080
How do I put that in my Autoreflex T?
>>
>>3445614
>>3445754
Ultrafine is it's own emulsion, Harmon (Kentmere and Ilford films) does the coating/finishing of Ultrafine.
With that being said it's still a great cheap film
>>
>>3447080
Ya but you can't shoot film cameras and still use use that. Not a very well-thought-out post there, Anonymous
>>
>>3447080
>The film names and lines listed are the brands and trademarks of their respective holders. None of the film companies on this page endorse or sponsor Mastin Labs or any other content contained on this page, nor are any of the film companies affiliated with Mastin Labs.
Somehow there has to be a crime here somewhere.
>>
>>3445411
Fell for the meme and bought some HP5+ since it’s cheaper here than my usual Tri-x/Tmax 400. Pretty excited to see how it turns out in comparison. Also bought some Kentmere 400 bc why not.
The new box design for Ilford/Kentmere films are super neat.
Also any xtol fags that shoot these films gimme your recommendation for different dilutions plz and thanks
>>
Is it a bad idea to use different brand chemicals to develop film? e.g Rodinal developer and Ilford fixer/stop bath?

Also, is there a difference in storage life for different brands? Which one would allow longest storage life after opened?
>>
>>3447295
It depends, I think black and white chemicals are normally designed to be very pick and choose. For C41 and E6 you shouldn't really mix and match.
All brands and products can have different experation times.
>>
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Sisters

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>>
>>3446306
I just ran my first 4 rolls of color last week, so I couldn't say consistently one way or another.
>>
Recommendations for an SLR with comfy finder magnification/eyepoint?

Have used a bunch of well-acclaimed SLRs like the OM-1, OM-2, FM2, RE Super, Rollei SL35, etc. etc. but I always hate that with my glasses I pretty much have to move my head around actually to see the full finder and light meter.

The Nikon F3HP sounds interesting. Anyone here have experience with the DP-12 finder?
>>
>>3447435
>with my glasses I pretty much have to move my head around actually to see the full finder and light meter
try using your other eye. I use -4.00 eyeglasses and had that problem when using the right eye. found out I'm actually left eye dominant and with that eye I can see the whole frame, side to side, top to bottom and the meter just fine in every camera I own, and with the stock finder. can't do that with my right eye at all.
>>
>>3447435
As a fellow glasses user, I've used much of the cameras you've listed. The f3hp is the obvious choice, but most nikons post f3hp have less magnified finders, which are better for people with glasses. The f3hp is excellent for people with glasses, don't hesitate to buy one, if the fact you haven't looked down the finder is stopping you.
>>
>>3447435
>DP-12 finder
ahh, I have used this as well
>>3447445
It is better than most, for visibility with glasses, but not as good as the f3hp or f4. The reason to buy the dp-12 is the fantastic low light meter. One thing to note, it indicates exposure using leds, not a needle. I sold my f2as mostly because the meter was not appreciably better than the f3 most of the time, and I preferred the finder of the f3. Also, I found exposing with the 3-led system of the dp-12 annoying in fast paced situations.
>>
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I miss the leica m2 that i sold 2 years ago. Thinking of buying another one or maybe an m4.
Hold me, brehs. I want to buy stuff i don't need again.
>>
>>3447460
Sold an M2 recently and miss it. Still got an M4, but the M2 was something different. Get one if you can afford it, you can't go wrong with a film leica.
>>
>>3447460
>photography_as_a_hobby.txt

It’s the curse most of us bear.
>>
>>3447463
Does the M4 really feel less smooth than an m2 or is that people talking crap because m4-2 and m4-p were made in canada?
Looks like m2s got more expensive. They're almost on par with m4s on ebay and i seem to find more m3s for a lower price than an m2. Was quite the opposite a few years ago.
>>
>>3447460
Sold me CLE, miss it every day. I have considered calling the guy who bought it off me very frequently.
>>
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thoughts? not sure how i feel about the color, i wish i could get the water to be a more airy transparent look but i cant get it right so

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>>
>>3447477
I think it has potential. Have you tried cropping in on the model? If you give that a go I’d also suggest more of a landscape orientation.
>>
>>3447477
that bum is so pasty it's blown out.

if you want water to look tansparent, use a polarizer next time.
>>
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trying out some 35mm arista 100

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>>3447501
Dang, nice detail.
>>
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>>
>>3447477
I want to mate with her
>>
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>>3447506

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>>3447503
you can kind of tell that I did an accidental double exposure when the flash didn't go off
>>
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>>3447510

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>>
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>>3447513

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>>
>>3447514
>>
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>>3447514

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>>
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>>3447517

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>>
Does anyone know of a good place for camera service manuals? Butkus is great for the usage manuals but I'm trying to reassemble the shutter on a Minolta hi matic 7s. While cleaning the blades I actuated the shutter mechanism and the spring popped off. Now I can't figure out how it went on and there are seemingly no pictures of it.
>>
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>>3447501

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>>
>>3447516
I like this one
>>
>>3447522
Heh
>>
>>3447287
bumpity bump
>>
>>3447466
>Does the M4 really feel less smooth than an m2 or is that people talking crap because m4-2 and m4-p were made in canada?
Marginally. I'd get an M4-P. Got the M2 for 400eur, but it had some issues with sticky framelines and squeeky focus. The latter was especially horrible, but I guess both symptoms were caused by the same problem. Sold it cause I didn't want to bother with a CLA and still got some nice profit.
>>
Anyone have advice on how to properly dispose of exhausted film chemistry? I've scoured a few different forums and I can't seem to find a clear answer on how to go about doing it.
>>
>>3447548
Down the drain you retard
>>
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>>3447468

I love my CLE.

No time to shoot it as much lately though. Hard to take pictures of an overactive toddler with it. Viewfinder doesn’t play well with my glasses either.

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>>3447548
Depends on your country, dingus. Generally there's some sort of municipal or local waste collection center where people can bring in chems and whatever. From B&W dev chems only the fixer is particularly toxic because it contains silver which can interfere with the flora at water purification plants. Theoretically anyway, just one guy's spent fixer isn't going to do shit.
>>
>>3447548
I take the exhausted developer and fixer to my college's darkroom. they have large containers for the used chemicals that get collected by some company from time to time. dunno where it goes tho.
>>
>>3447523
Sorry I'm just getting into photography and film so I don't feel I can point out what I like or criticize properly but I like your photos. The subjects are interesting to me but I feel like the colours are washed out a little bit. I'm not sure if what I'm saying makes sense
>>
>>3447551
>>3447468
I'm in the market for a CLE. I think it would be the best camera for me since it's small, 40mm is my favourite focal length, I like rangefinders over SLR's and aperture priority is a god sent.
Anything I should know before buying one?
>>
>>3447602

Only downsides I can think of is that the meter doesn’t function in manual mode, and not many places will repair it.

Oh and not all non-minolta lenses trigger the rangefinder lines properly.
>>
>>3447551
Glasses issues was one of the reasons I sold the CLE. It's tricky.
>>3447602
Main things to know is that the 28mm M-Rokkor almost always has some issues so if you want to complete the set that will be tricky. The CLE Flash is quite rare so you might have to wait a few weeks / months before one shows up if you want it.
Aside from those points it's a stellar little camera. The fact that they can't be repaired is tolerable at the pricepoint of the body.
>>
>>3447648

I used to wear contacts and it wasn’t an issue, but my allergies have been so bad lately I just can’t be bothered.

I have almost a full CLE set. Body, 28/40/90mm lenses w/ caps and hoods, flash, grip, strap, shoulder bag, and even the tripod. I have a soft case for it too, but it is falling apart and useless.

And yea, it took me quite awhile to find a clean 28mm, and the hood on mine is beat to hell. I have a dirty copy and it isn’t terrible, especially for the dirt cheap price.

Flash is tough to find, but it can also take normal Minolta flashes like from the X-700. Some of them are actually pretty nice. Stay away from third party ones though, some are kinda sketchy and can fry the electronics.
>>
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>>3445592
>tfw lab once fucked up 5 rolls of slide film taken on a trip to san francisco
slide film developing was outsourced, they stopped offering it from then on
>>
>>3445653
>all those specs of dirt
clean your camera you swine
>>
pls recommend neg scanner for 35mm fellow /p/ussies.
Bonus points if it also does 120, but it's not that important.
>>
>>3447688
plustek 8100 for 35mm, epson v550 for 120 or digi cam plus good macro lens
>>
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>>3447690
thanks fren
>>
>>3447690
Not that guy, but guy epson v550 for 120?
>>
>>3447696
>but guy epson v550 for 120?
Name me a better MF scanner at that price point that isn't a dslr setup. Other anon is obviously a newbie and isn't going to spend 2 grand on a Plustek Opticfilm 120 or other high end MF scanners.
V550 isn't the greatest for 35mm but it's good enough for online posting especially since it most sites compress images anyway
>>
>>3447688
Plustek 8100 if you shoot mostly bw, 8200i if you shoot color and don't want to mess around in PS to get rid of dust.
>>
Are there a ready to buy piece of equipments for digitizing film with a digital camera that isn't overly complicated and expensive? I've already got the camera and macro lens, I just need something to hold the film perfectly flat and easy to load/slide through a roll.

Tried to find some info on a group about digitizing film and most people has ridiculous setup like this one.
>>
>>3447713
camera, macro lens, tripod, light table, film holder
>>
>>3447705
good to know, I only shoot color
>>
>>3447714
Read his post again.
>>
>>3447713
>>3447718
There is no ready to buy film digitiser for DSLR scanning make your own
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-JUoVzedCRY
>>
>>3447713
I use a Nikon es-2 screwed onto my macro lens for 35mm with a cheap-ish light table and I’m happy with that.

Seems like a lot less hassle than other methods

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>>3447715
Then get the 8200i, the infrared dust removal works very well.
>>
>>3447774
Is the 8200i able to scan pano shots?
>>
Thoughts on overexposing portra 160 a full stop? Blah blah exposure latitude, but im shooting with a camera with 1/250th max shutterspeed so instead of stopping down all the time i figured shooting slower would be easier at times depending what type of shot im taking.

Anyone have results to share?
>>
>>3447819
ND filter?
>>
>>3447822
Ive considered getting one before but never pulled the trigger and have just been dealing with the slow max shutter speed. The camera doesnt have ttl metering so what, i would just slap the filter on and set camera to +1 ev and itll even out to box speed?
>>
>>3447819
negatives are meant to be err on exposure, so wgaf if it's under 1 or over 1 2 or even 3
some tidbits: overexposing kodak negs have a slight yellow tint, and fujis green (and surprise surprise these brands use such repsective colors for their packagings)
>>
>>3447816
Ordinarily no, but you can work around it by modifying the film holder.
>>
>>3447819
You can overexpose it a lot more than that without a problem. Portra is incredibly forgiving of overexposure.
>>
>>3447701
I have a V550 and it sucks balls

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>>3447854
vuescan is also a pain in the ass

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>>3447858
color correcting is shit. this whole roll is blueish af and i suck at getting it right. scanning is so gay

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Anyone got tips on how to easily find focus when DSLR scanning? Takes me way too long with fiddling around. I've seen videos like Grimes brothers/Nick exposed but I'm using a Nikkor 55mm and don't have lens hoods like that. Minimum focus distance is 21.4 cm so I'm thinking about building some sort of fixed distance contraption...

Trying to do as all videos say, "focus on the grain", so I've focused on the negatives text etc but i can't seem to nail it to get really sharp results. A7ii screen is not the highest res, but should be enough to guage proper focus I guess...
>>
>>3447095
I guess I'll just get a roll or Ektachrome to try out. Will post results here when I get it developed.
>>
>>3447859
Silverfast + Negafix ftw
>>
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yeah i don't know if thats worth it for me. the whole scanning process is so shitty and takes forever, that i think next time i'm shooting medium format i'll just get my pics scanned at the lab. otherwise i mostly shoot bw on 35mm which is less of a pain in the ass to digitalize when scanning with a plustek. this whole flatbed scanning just sucks

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>>3447859
Tried Silverfast?

Also come on, you have asphalt in your shot, this is easy mode to get the colour balance in the ballrpark, just pick the spot on the road as your neutral grey.
>>
>>3447863
yeah get one ekta and one provia
>>
Fujifilm Superia X-tra vs. Kodak Gold
>>
So in the next few weeks I'm heading to japan and am looking at buying my first 35mm film camera. I dont want to spend too much (under $200AUD) what should I keep my eye out for? Any recommendations welcome. Thanks. (preferably rangefinder)
>>
>>3447961
Gold no contest

>>3447969
Canon P is a great introduction to the rangefinder life
>>
>>3447972
what about Fujicolor C200?
>>
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>>3447976
>what about Fujicolor C200?
Grain is ridiculous for a 200 speed film.
Haven't shot the similarly priced Kodak Colorplus 200 but from images I've seen online it's less grainy and I like the colors more.

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>>3447514
this kind of looks like my old high school in dc
>>
>>3447854
is this great falls?
>>
>>3447997
Issa plant on my back deck my guy
flower is dead now :(
>>
>>3448001
i love your plant, but I think I was replying to the other poster?
>>
>>3447854
is this great falls?
>>
Picked hp5+ today for my first time shooting black and white film. Anything major I should know?
>>
>>3447854
>>3447858
>>3447859
Is color really the main issue? I know it's a pain in the butt but otherwise those seem like good scans. I'm considering a scanner myself and wouldn't mind the color correcting as long as I get sharp scans without any wacky digital artifacts.
>>
so with my a-1 when i specifically have an fdn 35mm f2 on, when im trying to take an image in aperture priority mode, the shutter and mirror get stuck and dont fully go up. sometimes, a little bit later i hear a click where i know the shutter went back down and i can recock the shutter; other times i need to remove the lens to induce this click.

first, what causes this? im assuming it has something to do with the lens stopping down, i have it set to A, or at least im very certain it appears so.
second, when it happens, whats the best way to fix it without wasting a shot? does it have to do with pushing the stop down button or something? id much rather not remove the lens.
third, what must i do to prevent this from continuing to happen? this issue has never happened on my silver-ring 50mm f1.8.
>>
>>3448057

I’ve had a camera do something similar before. Actually turned out to be lack of lubrication in the shutter closing mechanism on the bottom of the body. First shutter curtain would open, the timer would release a little pawl that would strike a second one, initiating the closing curtain. Not enough lubrication on the shaft for the second pawl meant that it couldn’t rotate enough once struck to fully close the second curtain and reset the shutter. Mirror stayed locked up as a result.

Popped the bottom cover off, put a drop of light oil on the shaft, and it worked like new.
>>
>>3448014
Nope, that was in Norway. I forgot where exactly, we basically just saw this view when driving north from lillehammer.


>>3448056
Yeah its mainly scanning color that bothers me. Sometimes it works like a charm and you scan and it looks about right out of the box but sometimes its an awful mess. But also scanning takes much too long and is the biggest downside of shooting film to me.
>>
>>3447861
use focus peaking
>>
>>3447605
>>3447648
Thanks for the info guys! I'll probably stick with the 40mm for now, I've heard about the issues with the 28mm and will probably opt for a Biogon (If I ever decide to get a 28mm that is)
One last thing, how accurate is the meter for slide film? I'm a huge fan of Provia 100F
>>
>>3448109

It has a pretty advanced and accurate meter. I shoot slide with it all the time, loaded up with the new ektachrome right now.

I always wanted to get an M.S. Optics 28mm for it. It would be pretty much pocketable with that thing.
>>
>>3448109
The metering system is excellent, it is a very advanced designed for the era.
>>
>>3448118
Get a CV Skopar 28mm instead, it's better corrected and only half a stop slower, but also very small and still cheaper.
>>
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A little /fgt/ related so I'll try my luck here. I have a rotolight neo as a light source for scanning film with DSLR. It should be a good light source with high CRI and adjustable K level, but I'm struggling to figure out how to use it in place of a tracing pad. Like what should I use for diffusion, what is the best way to hold the film flat since its not pressing against a pad? Can someone offer some idea?

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>>3448308
That girl is beautiful, very cute foto
>>
How is the Olympus Mju-1? I got one for free because it's defect and I wonder if it's worth it to repair
>>
>>3448318
Its fine. A nice and sturdy little camera. Apart from the slower lens, its not much different then its sought after successor. If you want it, buy another one, it won't be worth the repair cost if the fault is any more serious than empty batteries.
>>
>>3448308
Still in preorder phase right now but this would be something to keep an eye on:
https://pixl-latr.com/

In the meantime though you’re in a tricky spot. I’ve never gone full on DIY with this stuff because it seems like a giant pain in the ass
>>
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>>3448434
>pixl-latr

That looks great. I hope it come out soon.

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>>3445411
400TX is way too much expensive (13EUR per roll in here)
>>
>>3448461
Are you having a laugh?
https://www.macodirect.de/en/film/black-white-films/1826/kodak-tri-x-400-tx-35mm-36-exposures
>>
>>3448461
6.4 eur at fotoimpex.
>>
>>3448462
please do not complain...
>>
>>3448465
Just order from Germany meight. Buy a 10pack and stick it in the freezer.
>>
>>3448467
Add 25% VAT (Norway is not in EU) and add shipping. Total price is probably not worth it.
>>
>>3448468
Buy from fotoimpex, they will subtract VAT for non EU countries order so it's 5,38 eur per roll, after 25% VAT would be 6.7 eur plus 10 eur shipping. Just buy a bunch at a time then it's worth it.
>>
>>3448468
Kjop 5 ruller om gangen fra fotoimpex. 10 EUR i frakt. Lonner seg.
>>
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Do you know any brand that makes medium format slide projectors?

I can only find old 135 projectors around me and I was wondering if MF ones are even available and how big the cash pile I have to have. 1:1 would be enough, but 6x7 or 6x9 would be future proof.

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>>3448603
For slide mounts:
https://www.gepe.com/website/index.asp?pageID=268

For projectors, Rollei, Götschmann, or Hasselblad (pcp80)

Doesn’t seem worth it at all. People don’t like the mount quality and the projectors are now expensive as all fuck and definitely not repairable outside very select places
>>
>>3448715
Thanks for the info! I checked the Hassy and Gotschmann and I wasn't prepared for 4 figures prices. Still, Rollei is within the reach, which is nice.

120 slides are so fucking good to look at even directly, one would think that projecting them on the wall is a next logical step. I know I wan to do this with these few rolls I have and most likely much more coming. I hope projectors will make a big comeback right after the Ektachrome and such.
>>
>>3448603
You can get an old Planck projector for a few dozen bucks. It won't have a magazine but come on, do you really need one?
>>
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Is there an easy way to scan 120 film with these 35mm slide copier?
>>
>>3448738
This is really all I need. 2-slide holder just like in my "Made in USSR" 135 projector would be enough for me to enjoy. I learned that slides tend to look good even on this Soviet rig and that the film curvature has the biggest impact on the overall sharpness.
>>
>>3448756
The expensive part about medium format slides are the slide frames themselves, because a box of 20 Gepe 6x6 frames with glass costs around 50 bucks, effectively more per frame than the film itself. Glassless ones are a lot cheaper, but dealing with curling is a whole different thing with 6x6 than 135.
>>
>>3448762
I think the emotional and personal value of this kind of souvenirs is worth at least considering glass frames. On the other hand, I brought ~30 frames of provia from Iceland and that would cost me, outside of film itself and developing, around $75 to frame them properly. It adds up really fast, but man, I would probably do this if I wouldnt let people pass around them and make filthy fingerprints everywhere. Next time I will be prepared!
>>
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I decided to put peanut butter all over my M2 for reasons unknown. Anyone else ever do this?
>>
is it even possible to mod this to fd mount, or are the flange distances not right?

worst case scenario i may just mod it to some fixed shutter toy camera meme
>>
>>3449005
Based richfag anon, you keep Leica alive
>>
>>3449005
That was a really expensive troll. Was it worth it?
>>
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>>3447477
when the angle is approaching perpendicular, the water gets more transparent, that's why your water looks transparent (dark) towards the bottom of your image, but not the top.

>>3447490
also polarizer i guess? But I'm not too sure of the results.

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I'm having a look at the Minolta 50mm F1.7 MD lens.

Should I get the one with 49mm filter thread, or the one with 55mm filter thread?
There is sort of conflicting information on the internet.
>>
>>3449050
55mm is an older version. Minolta changed to a smaller diameter when they changed over from MC to MD. Later lenses have better coatings, old ones aren't so hot for color but work fine with b&w.
>>
>>3449056
Thanks.

I guess the people who recommended the 55mm liked it for the flare artifacts it could produce.
>>
>>3449005
Can you send it to me? Peanut butter and all.
>>
>>3448873
nice colours, but i'd crop in a little more
>>
Overexposed colour negatives film looks like shit
Change my mind
>>
>>3449050
Late plain MD lenses (with no Rokkor label) have the best coatings. They're the ones with the minimum aperture lock switch. they have 49mm thread size.
There are Rokkor MD with both 55mm and 49mm threads. Pretty sure they have the same older coatings.
to err on the safe side for latest coatings, go for plain MD versions.
but to be real, this stuff is so cheap you can get both. I have a bunch of minolta 50mm f1.7 and f2 MC and MD lenses from all eras just because they come attached to pretty much all minolta cameras I find for cheap.
>>
>>3449191
Agree, there is a reason the film is rated for a certain speed.
>>
>>3449191
Can you post a comparison between box vs overexposed?
>>
>>3449005
>using one of the ends of the loaf to make a sandwich

gtfo you fucking animal
>>
>>3448740
with stitching, yes
>>
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>>3449191
overexpoed 2 stops

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what size is the shutter release button thread?
>>
>>3449422
>>
>>3449425
ooh they're tapered. of course.
Wanted to make a shutter button thing cause the button is so small on my spotmatic
>>
>>3449371
You sound like my wife, who thinks the entire existence of the outsider is to protect the rest of the bread going stale. If she had her way two outsiders equals no bread left.
>>
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>>3448873

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>>
>>3449428
does she get monthly disability checks from the government every month?
>>
>>3449440
No, she gets her Monthly disability checks from the government bi-weekly.
>>
>>3449364
>>3449364
>>
>>3449416
I don't think that's truly overexposed 2 stops, it's overexposed from what your light meter said.
>>
>>3449454
pushing film is not overexposing. if you push film you underexpose it and then overdevelope it to "give" it a higher iso
>>
>>3449461
I can't keep "push/pull" straight.
>>
>>3449428
she is 100% correct
>>
>>3449467
Same here. Need to come up with a mnemonic device.
>>
>>3449476
I guess "pushing" means that you are pushing the limit of the film's iso, forcing it to act like it is a higher sensitivity than it is. That's good enough for me.
>>
Do the film scanners (Noritsu, Frontier) automatically do something like an "HDR" scan to bring out maximum detail from the shadows and highlights?
>>
Fuji pro 400h is pretty amazing for portraits.

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>>3449455
This.

Here's some overexposed Pro 400H.

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>>3449149
I'll send you the other half

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>>3449023
Yes, I would do it 100 times over.
>>
>>3445411
where do you guys develop film, i literally just paid $18 for thedarkroom to do mine after tax
>>
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some cacti

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>>3449551
in my laundry
>>
>>3449550
deep fry it you coward
>>
>>3445411
Feel free to kick me the fuck out if this is a dumb question, but does the new Ektachrome need to be sent off to a special place to be processed, or can any normal film developer do it?
>>
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bedroom B&W

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>>3449551
In my kitchen sink, anon. Fuck having someone else do it.
>>
>>3449605
E-6 dev process. Kits are available. Never tried that one myself though.
>>
>>3449605
It can be processed at any lab that does E6 slide development
>>
New bread gay boys

>>3449629
>>3449629
>>3449629
>>3449629
>>
>>3449385
Could you elaborate? Thanks.



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