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File: frog ass.jpg (658 KB, 3019x1698)
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I want to do macro photography, what's the best gear I can get?
>>
>>3438389
The one you carry with you.
>>
>>3438389
Gear that can do macro photography
>>
>>3438389
Tamron 90/2.8 Macro or Sigma 105/2.8 Macro are a good start
>>
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>>3438389

In a perfect world:

High resolution camera
1:1 magnification ratio macro lens
Tripod
Lens mounted flash

In reality:

Any camera with a decent resolution
Two lenses with a step up/down ring to connect the two (pic related)
Still need a tripod
Flash optional, but must shoot in good bright lighting
>>
>>3438426

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>>
Your first piece of equipment will be a good tripod, because honestly, you're not going to have any fun without it.

You also want a DSLR, or a dedicated analog SLR with fast film (800+).

Then you want a lens with short minimum focus distance and/or high focal length.
IIRC the frog ass lens in your picture is a low focal length macro lens, pretty unique, hence the price.
>>
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>>3438426
So you just use two lenses and hold one the wrong way and look through it with the other?
>>
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>>3438389
On that particular camera in the picture?
This one by far: https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1574251/

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>>
File: 1742493.jpg (386 KB, 868x1199)
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Enhance.

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>>
>>3438459

You need to manually focus first before you attach the second lens, but you'll also need a reverse threaded coupling ring, with threading to match your two lenses. You don't want to hold the second lens by hand.

https://www.ebay.com/i/161640587578?chn=ps
>>
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>>3438389
I would skip the adapters and such unless you're going to grab some microscope stuff.

Best macro equipment for the usual subjects (bugs, flowers, etc, not truly microscopic) would be a high resolution dslr and the appropriate lenses.

I use and I'm fairly satisfied with
Canon 5ds
Canon 100 L macro (for up to 1:1 work)
Canon Mp-e 65 (for 1:1 to 5:1 work)
Laowa 15 (wide angle 1:1, kinda of a super goofy lens)
focusing rails
alienbees 800 lights
sturdy tripod

All of my work is in studio so portability doesn't matter to me.

The laowa you have in the op image is a weird specialty lens that is really set up for video. You would be better off starting off with a more general purpose 1:1 macro lens and a set of extension tubes.. Depending what your shooting and why you could very well by a twin-lite or ring light for your macro lens. They give good even if generic light.

Macro lenses by any of the big brands are generally well regarded.

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>>
>>3438389
What caliber is that lens? The bullets might not be legal in my state.
>>
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>>3438389

I have the Sigma 70mm/2.8 on my a7rii. I really only use the lens for taking pictures of my figures or flowers and that kinda gay shit.

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>>
Get a Zuiko 80mm F4 OM mount lens with the telescopic extension tube, or the bellows. Unbelievable lens that's cheap because it won't adapt to F mount.
>>
>>3438530
cute hymenopus senpai
>>
The one you have with you
>>
A tripod, a zoom lens and a set of extension tubes.
>>
>>3438389
Micro four turds is probably good for macro because 2x crop factor and not so deep dof.
>>
>>3438886
This is the biggest meme. Sensor crop is not better for macro. It doesn't turn your 100mm lens into 200mm. It only gives you the FOV """equivalent""". It's essentially just like taking a picture with a full frame camera and cropping it in paint.
>>
>>3438893
A lie easily proven wrong just by posting a picture...
43 is brilliant for macro. And actually the best if you're shooting live subjects in the wild, thanks to its deeper field of view and help of body stabilization. With larger sensors, you'll often need to kill the bugs and use tripods.
>>
>>3438895
Not on my workcomp, but I'll post some of mine later.

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>>
>>3438895
>deeper field of view
The fuck? Your field of view is actually worse on m4/3 than on full frame, using the same lens. That's the point of sensor crop.

You are thinking about depth of field. However, the same lens will give you the same DOF, no matter what sensor you use.
Body stabilization is also pointless, because you'll be using a tripod anyways.
>>
>>3438893
>>3438895
Interesting! Let's reason a bit. At a constant aperture mainly the distance affects dof, where with a crop sensor one's farther away on an equivalent fov. Now a larger sensor can also increase the distance and thus result equivalent dof, moreover a crop will result in a resolution loss and equal fov.
What about other aspects? Can I have closer focal distances with optics that expose a smaller image circle? For the money spent, a smaller sensor should be cheaper..
>>
>>3438897
>>3438898
For clarification: With the same settings on the cameras and the same lens, you could shoot this exact picture, you would just have more stuff around the bee.
To get the same framing, you just need to crop it in photoshop.
_Sensor size does not impact DOF and lens distortion_.
>>3438899
>>3438900
>where with a crop sensor one's farther away on an equivalent fov
That's not true though.
Imagine you take a picture with 100mm on full frame.
Now you put the 100mm lens on your smaller sensor camera and move back so the subject is the same size.
Your FOV will be different, because the distance between lens and subject is different.
>moreover a crop will result in a resolution loss and equal fov
There is no resolution loss compared to the smaller sensor though, you'd just end up with the very same information, because in reality larger sensor usually equals more resolution.
>>
>>3438902
I've corrected it already. I wanted to write dof but wrote fov and had to correct fov to dof twice.
>>
>>3438903
Can't say I haven't made the same mistake before. I hope I didn't sound mean, just wanted to win the argument
>>
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>>3438901
You have less depth of field on smaller sensor. Meaning you won't need to worry as much about how narrow your field is, and you will need to focus stack less to get usable results.
Normally, for something like portraits, shallower/less dof is a benefit, you want your background to blur out. For macro you're so close to the subject that dof will be extremely shallow even on larger apertures. No matter the sensor size. The closer you are to the subject, the shallower dof you get. Basic optics, it'll be always like that. And at macro you're so close to the subjects that you'll always be fighting dof not going for it. For getting higher magnifications than 1:1, you'll need to focus stack, no matter the equipment you'll be using. Dof will be so small you won't get full eye in focus, but that's another macro area already.

Sample;
Quarter of a nail sized spider. Uncropped and selected since it shows what kinds of dof you get on m43 format. I can go up to f8 and not get into diffraction problems for this lens, but I think I needed a bit of light, so I shot lower. No flash. Handheld by resting tip of the lens on extended hand on the plank. Shutter speed is very low, ibis helped a lot, but still image would be blurry without rest. Now observe how shallow focus plane is. Legs at front and whole back is out of focus. Even at f8, where it would be wider, I'd need to stack at least two images to get whole bug in focus. Franky I'd have to be lucky to do that handheld on my cam, I'd need tripod. On a larger sensor, tripod/focus stack would be only way to get anything useful. That's the benefit of 43 sensor.
Not saying it's the best thing ever for macro, there are drawbacks as well. At times you won't be able to fit whole bug in the frame at 1:1 where you could do that on larger sensor, you could just move a bit back, but it's not the same, but overall, macro is one area where you'll not see many differences along the sensor sizes. Each has benefits and drawbacks.

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>>
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>>3439014
Now for lenses, and focal lengths. Auto focus performance is nearly irrelevant, you're usually in MF and then move forward and backwards with your cam/body to get bug in focus. Or you're on tripod and can carefully set it. Huge benefit about this is that older manual macro lenses are still a very valid option for shooting macro. Max aperture size is also somewhat irrelevant, you're often shooting at higher f's for more depth and sharper results. And when you need light, you bring ring flash anyway. Focal length, on other hand, is extremely important. Wideness of the lens will change how the subject will appear. Even more important is disturbance factor. For twitchy bugs like butterflies, you'll never be able to get close enough with shorter lengths. Very popular with butterfly shooters are mid telephoto lenses with extension tubes. They allow you to be quite far and still get good results. It's a complicated topic with careful math and testing needed for each specific lens to see what magnification it will give you. For twitch bugs, at least 100mm ff equivalent will make ones life more plesant. That would be 50mm and up on m43, 66mm on apsc. Anything lower, and you'll be scaring them up with the lens, not to mention, you'll start introducing lens shadows too often to the pic. Still, don't neglect wider lenses, they are harder to use, but can often provide unique vantage points and compositions. As for extreme macro. Higher magnifications than 1:1... Studio, bellows, focussing rack and dead bugs.

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>>
>>3438426
I have a reversing ring and an aperture control ring coming from Amazon to try picture set up. 70-300 zoom in the camera stepped down to a 35 or 50.
>>
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>>3438389
Cheap:
•Reverse Ring with Aperture Adapter
•Double Coupling Ring with Aperture Adapter

Fair Price to Expensive:
•Extension Tubes (with/without AF depending on your lens)
•Macro Bellows (with/without AF depending on your lens)

Expensive
•Dedicated Macro Lens in whatever magnification ratio you want starting at 1:1

Vintage all manual lenses are fairly cheap and fun to use for macro. Either get a macro one that is 1:1 or just reverse the lens. You can score some nice gear, like those microscope adapters. If you go beyond 1:1 ratio I suggest getting some really good powerful lighting, a 4-way rail, and tripod with sandbags.

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>>
I bought a macro tube for $1.07 from a thrift store and used it for eBay stuff on my kit lens
>>
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>>3438426
That's rad as fuck.
>>
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I bought a lens cap/body cap set, cut some holes in them, and epoxied them to a metal tube. This is what a Nikkor nifty 50mm 1.4/f does with a 171mm extension tube. This is about 3.1:1 magnification ratio. That is a Micro-B USB plug. This is a 4-photo focus stack. I did it handheld so I bumped up the ISO.

It cost like $1.10 to make.

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>>
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I use an old M42 50mm prime and some tubes mounted on my Nikon with a dumb converter. All manual but the results are good enough. Total cost was less than 50 dollars.

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>>
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Top: 28mm
Bottom: 12.5mm reversed

Reverse rings are cheap.

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>>
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>>3438389
I bought an adaptor because I wanted try macro and I guess its not bad, but for best possible results, dedicated macro lens is best
>>
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Someone redpill me on (easily?) adaptable vintage macro lenses

So far I've been looking at:

>Kiron 105mm f2.8 macro
local prices are around 200€, people seem to love this lens a lot. It's apparently nutty sharp, has a very long focus throw, and pretty high-quality.

>Minolta MC/MD Macro Rokkor 10mm f3.5
local prices are around 180€ including the 1:1 extension tube, seems to be a popular lens as well. Is there a discernible difference between the MD/MC versions?

>Vivitar/Cosina 100mm f3.5 macro
local prices are around 100€ including the (not sure here) extension tube or extra-lens (?) for 1:1. I don't know a whole lot about this lens to be honest

Maybe someone has other suggestions as well?

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>>
>>3448589
You're adapting to what? In general native has become cheaper, you'd be better off with buying some Meike Tokina available for your mount.
>>
>>3443810
Disassembled phone?
>>
>>3448589
>adaptable vintage macro lenses

I think going by other people's reviews and viewing sample images will help a great deal. I've not used any of those. Just make sure it is at least 1:1 in its native mode without some sort of extension, built-in or not.

The only problem I've had with older lenses, on my D3400, are the aperture arms. You may need to open the back of the lens and remove the aperture arm for it to be properly used. Some vintage lenses require a pin to be pressed down to engage the aperture so you can use it in manual mode. For those, you'll need to find a novel way to keep the pin down and still get the lens on and off the camera.

>>3448632
IDE HDD board.
>>
>>3448633
>hdd board
That's embarrassing... I've three of them in closet.
>>
>>3448631
Sony E aps-c

>>3448633
that's what I've been trying to do so far; everyone is raving about the the Kiron 105mm from what I read.
I've been thinking the same, yeah, not too much of a fan of needing an extra-lens or extension tube to get 1:1.

>aperture arms
not sure what this means, not the aperture blades I guess? All the lenses I've looked at so far simply needed an adapter to (in my case) Sony E, and then they had an aperture ring and didn't really interface with the camera at all.
>>
>>3448650
Why do you think that one isn't attached to anything and has corrosion all over it?

>>3448667
Aperture lever on the back of the lens. Some can be a pain despite being the exact same thing between lenses.
>>
Hello macro /p/als. Has anyone used the "focus trap" method for hand held macro photography? I've experimented a bit and it seems to work.
>set area af to single point
>set af mode to af-s
>frame the shot with the subject out of focus
>with the shutter button pressed down slowly move the camera toward the subject
>when the af point confirms focus the shutter will automatically fire

I've only played about with it (my gear has been in storage for a while). For insects in the wild it could be a useful tool. Maybe the spray and pray approach could be better. On my camera the focus needs to be spot on for the shutter to engage.

No great revelation but I've not heard about it before. Any thoughts?
>>
>>3448968
Since I only use non-macro lenses for my macro stuff and they are all manual focus, no, I don't use that method. I just move the camera back and forth as needed. I can use the lcd screen to zoom in to help see if it is focusing, but rarely use it. On rare occasions the focus indicator will light up, but rarely ever for 1:1. That is mostly because I'm using f/8 which it doesn't like for detecting focus (D3400).

If you camera can do then use it. For non-macro I just use the optical viewfinder and keep an eye on the focus indicator.
>>
>>3448975
Fair enough.Thanks for the input.
>>
>>3448968
Haven't heard of it. But wouldn't you introduce motion blur unless at very high shutter speeds?
What I often do is s-af single point, get close to bug engage af untill it catches it, then hold it, and ether mf a little or shimmy little forward backwards for optimal focus. Another way is MF then shimmy forward backwards. Best and only option when going for precise magnifications. Still do both, and I can't decide which is better. Lesser used is handheld focus stacking. That one is mostly just shotgun spraying. Unless having option to rest both hands, but thats hardly handheld anymore.
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File: 2018102705.jpg (336 KB, 960x1280)
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Postan some shit. Put 3.5/50 MD Macro and Minolta compact bellows on my digishitter.

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File: 2018110409.jpg (571 KB, 960x1280)
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>>3449036

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File: 2018080312.jpg (682 KB, 1440x1091)
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>>3449037
This one's with Schneider Componar-C enlarger lens.

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File: 2018070904.jpg (720 KB, 960x1280)
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>>3449038

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File: 2018070923.jpg (731 KB, 960x1280)
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>>3449039

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File: 2018070930.jpg (613 KB, 1280x960)
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>>3449040

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File: 2017060312.jpg (851 KB, 1440x1080)
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>>3449041
Lastly something with 3.5/55 Macro-Hexanon (no bellows).

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File: 2017060321.jpg (796 KB, 1440x1080)
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>>3449042

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File: 2017060327.jpg (789 KB, 1440x1080)
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>>3449043
Last one. Fuck gear.

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>>3448968
>>3448975
>>3449018
Sorry, I forgot to mention you need to set the camera to back button focus for this to work. That way the af doesn't engage when the shutter button is pressed. In af-s mode the shutter won't fire until the af area confirms focus.



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