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post christmas edition

Old thread: >>3409944
All film photography related questions and general discussion on film photography is to take place in this thread.
Analog, 35mm, 120 medium format, large format, C41, E6,B&W, developing, scanning, labs, darkroom etc.
Feel free to post photos, we want to see that beautiful grainy goodness!

>posting in /fgt/ doesn't make you gay, unless your loved ones didn't get you any film for christmas

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First time posting, please roast my photo to shit :)
Also, considering getting an Epson v550 for scanning. Thoughts on my choice? Any other recommendations? Pretty tight on budget (under $250 is ideal)

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>>3413390
I use it at the moment and while it does a reasonable job with 120, 135 performance isn’t great. As I’m looking to start printing larger format I’m going to upgrade to a v700 or something so I can use better holders / wet mount. If you want web-worthy quality on 120 go for it. If you just need 135 go for a Plustek. If you wanna print you’re gonna need to up your budget.
>>
>>3413382
I want a Contax T3 so bad but I'd never pay more than $200 for it. Fucking instagram whores pumping the price up.
>>3413390
I don't know, it's sort of uninteresting desu. The guy pulling his pants up and his arm is contorted backwards, doesn't look good.
>Epson v550
Don't. I have an Epson v500 and I hate it so goddamn much. It's a huge pain in the ass to get good scans out of it. I don't even use it for film scans anymore, just document scanning.
There are dedicated film scanners you can get on ebay for around your budget. These work much better than a flatbed.
https://www.ebay.com/p/Plustek-OpticFilm-7600i-SE-Scanner/111186755
>>
Realistically if I shot a whole roll of my cock and balls and sent it in to be developed and scanned what would happen. Would I get in trouble? Would the guy scanning them?
>>
>>3413414
I think a better question concerns why you'd do that in the first place
>>
>>3413414
Depends on where you sent it. Pro lab, just ask them first and they can probably accommodate you. If you do something like drop it off at a drug store that still has a mini lab, you’ll probably get banned for life from dropping off film there, or it’ll be fine, depending on who’s running the machine and how much they give a shit.
>>
>>3413414
i've taken nude photos of both men and women for a series I was doing when I was still in school. I took it to a pro lab and gave them a heads up. They were cool with it, and appreciated the heads up.
DON'T take it to a drug store or Costco.
>>
>>3413403
I've been buying and selling cameras for a looooooong time and I've never seen T3 prices drop below $500ish
>>
>>3413433
I'm not sure if the T3 would have ever gone below $500. It's always been the most premium of compacts.

Any idea what it retailed for at it's beginning?
>>
>>3413434
it was over $1000usd new in 2001 dollars
>>
>>3413433
>>3413434
what's the difference between a t3 and a t2? why is the t2 so much cheaper?
>>
>>3413414
if you're underage you will go to jail and get put on a sex offender registry for life, since you made cp.
>>
>>3413440
It's truly pocketable, unlike the T2
>>
>>3413461
the absolute state of America
>>
The rewind lever didn't work properly and I opened it with still 10-12 cm film exposed to light. Is it still worth developing the film?

I'm a beginner and got a couple minolta and canon cameras cheap, but seems some have issues.
>>
>>3413205
>>3413182
>>3413180
>>3413200
Can someone guess what is wrong with my camera? Does those lines look like a light leak?
>>
>>3413506
if there were any pictures in there, they just got ruined. however, you can still use whatever film is left inside the cartrigde to take new photos. it's up to you if you want to fork the dev cost for half a roll or whatever is left.

what minoltas you got? I'm official #minoltagang cholo. what issues they seem to have?
>>
>>3413506
That happened to me once. Only 4 or 5 photos were ruined, but the rest developed just right.
>>
just picked up a cute vivitar 2x teleconverter to make my vivi 70-210mm into a dank 420mm.
never used one before. I'm aware it takes away one stop of light, and it does have like an f stop conversion table that doubles them.
question is, am I supposed to compensate anything in the camera or just go with whatever the exposure meter reads now?
>>
>>3413524
Ah thanks, cheap studio so Ill just send it away then.
>>3413521
I got both the x700 and x370. The x370 couldn't rewind the last part of the film for some reason. The x700 had some shutter issues. But I've shot some rolls with very minor issues.
>>
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>>3413390
Not a good moment to capture, and the composition is too top-heavy. If you'd shot the guy from a lower angle and at a better moment it could have worked. I don't know anything about scanners.


This was one of my first successful attempts using a flash for street photography. I tried shooting Gilden-style with my camera in my right hand and the flash in my left, connected by a cord. It's awkward, but I think I could get it down with practice.

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I'm sure there are people who would argue that dogs don't count as street photography, but I think there's still merit in shooting puppers.

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>>3413539
>>3413538
no merit in these snoozey snaps
>>
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Fair enough. I still like shooting dougs.

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>>3413531
1.4x tc takes away 1 stop
2x tc takes away 2 stops
>>
>>3413533
>x700 and x370
sweet cameras. love shooting my x700 and x300 the most out of all my minoltas.
both are prone to capacitor failure, which locks up the camera. it's a simple an inexpensive fix so no worries.
one of the x700 I have went unused for 2 decades or so and was having funky shutter issues, like it won't release on the first few presses. thought it was the capacitor but after a few dozen shots it went back to life. been shooting just fine.

weird thing about the x370 not rewinding the last bit. film leader was probably set the wrong way and jammed. never had that issue with mine.

>>3413558
oh, I wasn't aware it was 2 steps for the 2x tc. so that's why the finder gets so dark with the f3.5 lens. thanks m8.
>>
If I want to get into film right now without having to obsessively browse CL/thrift stores with spending $100 - $150, what camera should I get?
Should I post this in /gear/?
>>
>>3413574
Depending on where you live there’s probably a hundred perfectly fine film SLRs listed w/ nifty 50’s for like $50. Literally anything from Minolta, Pentax Canon, Nikon etc will serve you well.

There is really no need to get sperg’d out over features with your first film gear
>>
>>3413531
You don't have to make any manual adjustments to your exposure--the teleconverter steals its light before that light hits your meter, assuming you're using a relatively modern SLR (I.e., anything made since the 1960s or so). If you have an external meter of some sort that's not looking through your actual lens system, then yeah, adjust it two stops down. But I just noticed you said you were shooting a Minolta SR-mount cameras, so no problem.

>>3413566
>I wasn't aware it was 2 steps for the 2x tc
Quick intro to aperture math, since a lot of people just sort of accept the weird list of f/stop numbers without wondering why they are.

An f/stop is actually the ratio of your focal length (f) to the diameter of the entrance pupil of your lens (more or less. Actual modern lens designs are way more complex than that, but we don't need to give a shit for the purposes of this explanation).

Which means that, for instance, a 50mm f/1.0 would have an aperture 50mm in diameter.

What they discovered a century or so ago is that a ratio of the square root of 2 halves or doubles the light. We usually round that down to 1.4 because sqrt(2) is actually an irrational number and writing an infinite, non-repeating number sequence on a lens would be prohibitively expensive. But sqrt(2) * sqrt(2) = 2, which is easy.

That's why the common aperture sequence goes 1.0, 1.4, 2.0, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22, etc: Each of those is the previous one times sqrt(2). Easy way to remember that is start with 1 and 1.4 and alternate doubling them

That's also why the most common sizes for TCs are 1.4x and 2.0x--you're taking that focal length in the f/number formula and multiplying it by sqrt(2), one stop; or sqrt(2)^2=2, two stops. It makes the aperture math easier to do because you're adding one stop or two stops depending on whether it's 1.4x or 2.0x.

So your f/3.5 lens becomes an f/7 lens with a 2x TC, which, yeah, is gonna be dark as shit.
>>
Just got a Minolta x-370 anybody have any expierence with it?
>>
>>3413574
dozens of 35mm slrs sell for <$50 every hour on ebay
>>
>>3413605
this. local camera shop will have great ones and may have already tested them and offer a money-back guarantee.

Just get a fully manual SLR or a crazy rangefinder camera.
>>
>>3413520
Yes its a light leak as was said in the previous thread, it could be from the main seals, the mount, the viewfinder.
>>
>>3413574
I got my first camera setup at a yard sale for 25 bucks probably 10 years ago.
It was a Ricoh SR-5 Super II with a pretty nifty 35-70mm lens. Came in a nice camera bag with a flash and a bunch of filters and all the manuals and stuff.
I still use most of the stuff.
Point is you can find some really good stuff at yard sales, old shops, or on craigslist/ebay. Dont worry about exactly what to get. Find something that looks to be in good shape and is fully functional and go with it.
>>
>>3413638
I’ve used one a bit. Pretty straightforward camera. Full manual and aperture priority, iirc. A perfectly fine piece of equipment, imo.
>>
>>3413721
Just to elaborate on that post a bit, the one I had was actually a vivitar branded V50. Minolta farmed out the production of the X-370 to seagull in china, and they churned out the camera under a bunch of different brand names.

They don’t seem to be as ~*prestigious*~ as the minoltas produced in japan, but I liked mine well enough. Idk, probably cheaper electronics or something though...
>>
>>3413608
whoa, thank you very much for the explanation and aperture math. now a lot of things make sense about aperture, like the reason why zoom lenses have variable max aperture throught their zoom range.
really appreciate it man. I'm saving your post for future reference. good stuff.

and yep, it's an SR mount tc with the MC coupler and all my minoltas meter throught the lens. good to know it's a plug'n'play kind of deal and I can still trust the exposure meter reading.

>>3413638
it was my first camera. drop some sr44 batteries in it and have fun. it's all electronic so it does need working batteries and setting the power switch to ON to be able to release the shutter.
>>
Scratches on negatives caused by minilab. A big deal, yes/no?
I'm probably being too fussy because my scanner's ICE can correct them, but still, a bit miffed.
>>
>>3413780
uh, that'd be a definite deal breaker for me
>>
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>>3413382
got this for Christmas from gf. What should I expect?
>>
>>3413804
>one roll of film
;_;
>>
>>3413804
a breakup soon
>>
>>3413780

Possibly, but could also be from your camera.

If you think it's the lab, let them know. Last time my negatives got a bit messed up, they refunded me. I still go there, because that was the first time in 100+ years I've ever had an issue. Get that free money.
>>
>>3413804
It's good slide film. Try to shoot something colourful. Or don't.
What did you get her?
>>
>>3413574
>without having to obsessively browse CL/thrift stores
This is half the fun for me
>>
>>3413820
a book i knew she wanted, and she gave me something she knew i wanted
>>
>>3413382
>>3413268
reposting this
Does anyone know if this version of agfa vista 200 is just rebranded C200, or if its a standalone film stock? Thanks
>>
>>3413850
6 digit code on the film cansister under the lip. put it in here

https://dexter.pcode.nl/
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>>3413859
that link says the site is under construction
I found another website but this is all it says. From what I can tell the "agfaphoto" film stock was definitely a fuji rebrand, still unsure about the "agfacolor" version.
>>
>>3413801
>>3413814
nah it's definitely the lab, I recognize those scratches because it's happened to me before with another lab. Apparently they're from dev's machine rollers.
Now I sort of understand why some people home dev C-41. These minilabs are cheap and quick. but the quality is erratic. I miss the lab at home. They use dip dunk processing. Not so cheap and takes a few days, but worth it.
>>
Best place to buy development equipment online? Chemicals too
>>
>>3413868
The AgfaPhoto branded stuff is C200 reboxed.
Agfacolor version is a Agfa-Gevaert emulsion, discontinued sometime in the mid-2000s.

Your best bet is shooting the (probably more expensive) Fuji C200 or Kodak Colorplus.
>>
>>3413952
Well I have 10 rolls of the stuff so I'll just shoot it and see what happens. Mine says agfacolor on the box and that's what the dx code suggests as well, it's been kept in a freezer since purchase so it should still be fine. I'll shoot it at 100 just to be sure.
>>
>>3413886

Depends what country you live in. I know there's regulations on shipping chemicals.
>>
For the longest of times I figured film photography is elitist garbage, but I recently find out that my 50mm Nikkor glass apparently also fits most of Nikons film cameras as well, and that the cameras themselves can be really cheap. Should I get some older film camera to try out film photography or is that just gonna be a waste of time?
>>
>>3413850
If it was the original logo, like in your pic, it was a standalone film.
If it is the new logo (red circle instead of rhombus), it's rebranded C200. Another way to tell, is see where it says it was manufactured in. Made in Japan: C200, Made in US: Colorplus. All the latest stuff is C200.
>>
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So I posted a while ago about getting an epson v800 used. I pulled the trigger and I finally got around to playing with it a little bit. It is crazy how much more control you can get out of a scanner. To compare, here's a scan I got from a lab a while ago

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>>3413971
I started off with digital and no interest whatsoever in film. Started messing around earlier this year with a few old cameras my wife had kicking around and I’ve become absolutely hooked.

-GAS is more easily soothed as a lot of film gear is relatively cheap.

-Film pictures do look neat.

-Developing yourself, if you’re like me, is incredibly fun.

I’ll never forsake my digital equipment, but shooting with film absolutely scratches a certain itch. It may not be like this for you, but it does happen. Pick up a cheap body, get some kodak color 200 or 400, and give it a shot.
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>>3413978
what lab did you go to?
>>
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>>3413978
And then here's the scan I got with my v800. I was immediately able to get more highlight detail in the waves, there is some more shadow detail too. The color is more true to my memory, though maybe I took the water too blue. And of course the resolution on the full-size image is improved. The original scan was something like 1540x2140, and the new scan is 5243x7023 at 3200 ppi. This is from a 645 Ektar negative.

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>>3413982
rocket photo lab in studio city. It's cheap development but the scans were shitty and expensive. The next place I got my stuff scanned at (Dexter's Camera) was a bit higher resolution, but it's still much easier to play around with stuff you've scanned yourself. Here's an image that the guys at Dexter's Camera scanned.

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>>3413987
And then here's my v800 scan. Dexter's Camera original scan was at 2870x3944, and the v800 scan is the same dimensions as my last post. Nothing against the guys at Dexter's Camera though since it was only a $5 scan for a whole roll, for pretty good resolution, but scanning gives you much more flexibility than you could otherwise get in something like Lightroom.

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>>3413975
Well mine says it's made in Germany. But either way at least it's not C200. Which is not a bad film at all, I just dont want to shoot 24 frame expired C200 when I could just buy C200 straight up.
>>
>>3413574
Get a Nikkormat FT2 that comes with a 50mm. The 1.2 is my favorite but not in your price range, the 1.4 is ultra common and cheap and has a really strong reputation, the 2.0s are probably good too. The Nikkormat FT2 is a dated SLR but if the meter is working fine with an adapted battery then you’re all good to go. It was my first film camera and I still keep it in my car because with a 50/1.2 it really is an all around useful camera
>>
>>3413966
I'm in Canada, which is always a problem when dealing with shipping
>>
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>>3414023
Beau Photo. They'll ship. You may need to email them to get prices for everything though. Otherwise there is Argentix but they're pretty overpriced for some things (colour chems in particular).

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>>3413987
Did you drive up to Ventura from LA or you live there?
>>
i just got a GA645zi and im excited to go out and put some 400h through it
>>
>>3414073
Nah I just mailed it in, and I probably will mail in my next few rolls to them since I've moved away from the area. They develop anything for $5, including B+W and slide.
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>>3414073
nice set. all of them distinct and interesting yet all feel part of a cohesive set.
>>
Why are some of my photos turning out like this: cut in half vertically?

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>>3414105

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My guess is a sticking shutter.
>>
I am a student and I bought myself a fully manual slr a couple weeks ago. What's the best way to handle the film?

I want to get developed and get scans, I am fine scanning myself and I want to spend less than 250 upfront but I don't want to spend much every two weeks getting rolls of film developed.
>>
Do you even need to refrigerate film? I've got a heap I bought at the start of the year, but just left in my camera bag. I'll use it nonetheless.
>>
>>3414175
Totally fine as long as you aren’t leaving it in a hot car or something like that

You only need to refrigerate stuff that’s expired or soon to be expired
>>
>>3414175
Consumer films like Colorplua, Ultramax, Gold, Superia, C200, etc don't really need to be refrigerated unless you won't be using them for over a year.

Professional films like Portra, Ektar, 400H, Provia, Velvia, etc should be refrigerated if you don't plan to shoot it within a month or two after purchase (when purchased new)

>>3414183
That's not true at all. If you bought Ektar at the end of 2017 with a 2019 exp and haven't kept it in the fridge...I have some bad news for you
>>
>>3414161
Developing at home would be most economical. I’m in a similar situation to you. I’m a beginner and not a student, but I’ve been taking pictures with my SLR and want to take more photos, but paying to have them developed is getting expensive.
>>
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>>3413390
the epson v550 isn't too bad, it's more than good enough for web use imo, it's a lot better at scanning 120 than 35mm though

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>>3414224
>>3413390
35mm

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>>3414225
>>3413390
annnnd i posted the hella compressed one, here's another
>>
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>>3414226
i forgot the image, time to an hero

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>>3414224
what camera? there's some serious smearing gong on in the tree tops. not sure whether it's from the lens or a film flatness issue on the shatbed.
>>
Is there are good medium format camera that isn't crazy expensive?
>>
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>>3414240
Bronicas.

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>>3414206
Hmm, is this the same for 120 film as well, or only 135? I've got a 120 roll of Portra 400 that I haven't stored. Thought it was just to extend lifespan of film.
>>
>>3414244
Yes it's the same. FWIW all modern in-production 120 film aside from cheapo repackaged BW stuff like Ultrafine, Arista, etc are Pro films anyway.

Hope your 120 stuff is okay. I've had backing paper issues with room stored Portra and Ektar barely past the expiration date.
>>
>>3414244
It is to extend the lifespan. No film “has” to be refrigerated.

The old adage that consumer films “don’t need” to be kept refrigerated is because the manufacturer, for cost reasons, can’t gurantee that the film is kept refrigerated all the way from the manufacturer, to shipping, to retail stores, until it reaches your hands. So no need to refrigerate it yourself, cause any minimal damage that might have happened, has happened already.

With pro films, they did this, I.e. ensure low temperatures all the way to your hands. So they’d say, keep refrigerated for best results, to eliminate any tiny possibility of small degradation, since the manufacturer did their part and since the film would be probably used for professional purposes (weddings, product shoots, etc.).

Today that’s not the case though, most brick and mortar shops that sell film, they keep even pro film on the shelves, like consumer films.

So you refrigerate to extend the lifespan, for *any* film, but no big deal if you don’t. The only film I’ve noticed that degraded *relatively* quickly after expiration with no refrigeration, was the old emtachrome, E100G. It got a slight magenta cast after about a year off date.
>>
What is the best EOS film camera for a beginner? EOS 100?

I'd like to get into /film/ and since I use Canon, I figured it would be good to at least start here since I could use my EF lenses.
>>
>>3414272
Eos 7, or 3 if you can afford it.
>>
>>3414240
mamiya rb67 or mamiya 645

Both are pretty cheap
>>
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>>3414258
>I've had backing paper issues with room stored Portra and Ektar barely past the expiration date.
This is a recent Kodak only problem
https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/kodak-120-film-backing-paper-problems-emulsions-affected.137251/
Basically they changed their backing paper a few years ago, causing problems for anyone buying film outside the UK. Kodak eventually fixed this by switching to glossy backing paper, starting from the batches produced in 2018, pic related.
ATM I'm using Fuji until the shops around here start selling Kodaks with the new emulsion numbers. It's going to take a while though, especially with portra 160/800 and ektar because they're not as popular as portra 400, because old stock is still slowly being moved from distribution channels.
>>
So before I send off some rolls to The Darkroom, is there any other developer I should be looking at? The Darkroom is cheaper than my local option, and while I got a developing kit for Christmas, one roll is slide, and the others I want to make sure come out right.
>>
>>3414298
Indie FIlm Lab in Alabama is excellent. Best scans I've ever received from a lab.
If you're just getting developing done (no prints, no scans) it's honestly just better to go to your local pro lab.
For develop only, I go to Photoworks in SF. They've probably developed at least 100 rolls of film for me, dating back since high school.
>>
>>3414304
I'm getting scans too, until I can figure out a scanning solution myself.
>>
>>3414310
Indie Film Lab is expensive but worth it imo. They give you a choice between Frontier and Noritsu scans.
Although if you're doing E-6 take it elsewhere, they're about $9 overpriced and don't even mount your slides. The Darkroom seems fair priced for E-6
>>
>>3414313
I guess I'll go with The Darkroom then, but I will keep Indie Film Lab in mind for other times. Thanks!
>>
Thoughts on a Yashica Mat?
>>
>>3414330
You're better off saving a bit more and buying a Mamiya C220 or C330. excellent lens and quality compared to Yashica Mat
>>
>>3414316
I use Dexter's Camera (I posted earlier). It's $5 to develop, $5 to scan. Same prices for BW, E6, and between 35mm and 120.
>>
Literally what is the point in shooting 35mm again once you start shooting medium format?
>>
>>3414338
convenience in the size of the camera. I can put my canonet in my coat pocket, can't really do the same with my Bronica.
>>
>>3413812
underrated.
>>
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Bought a Fed 2 the other day. Anyone else used one?

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>>3414338
I can put my XA2 in my pocket for when I go out with friends.
>>
>>3414338
>Literally what is the point in shooting 35mm again once you start shooting medium format?
Literally think about the question you're asking for half a second.
1. Smaller, lighter cameras
2. Convenient features like autofocus. Medium format cameras with AF (or even autoexposure) tend to be a hell of a lot more expensive.
3. Much cheaper per photo
4. You can still get 35mm developed in places like drug stores (although fewer and fewer every day)
5. Also easier to scan 35mm
6. If you shoot digital too, you're more likely to be able to share lenses between 35mm film and digital setups.
7. quicker and easier to load and unload 35mm than 120.
8. Faster lenses are available for 35mm systems, so you have more options in 35mm for low light shooting
9. More film options in 35mm than 120 format
>>
>>3414336
Do they charge more for pushing or pulling film?
>>
>>3414338
>acting like you even make the most out of medium format resolution

When was the last time you printed, anon?

I've pretty much stopped shooting 120. Going hard into 35mm again and it's so fun

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Wish the poundland shop didn't stop selling Agfa vista. I only bought like 5 rolls and there was a whole fucking shelf of them at the time.
>>
>>3414342
I like mine but the frame counter is fucked up. No matter how I wind the film or whatever, the frame counter always starts on a random fucking number so I'm always having to remember how many shots I've taken. I also have to remember what number it originally started on and add 36 to it so I know when the roll is up.
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>>3414330
If you find one for a good price, go for it. They’re a great value with the lens quality and the size of the thing.

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>>3414355
Dipping my toe into MF with a Bessa folder. If it turns out I don’t really prefer it much over 35mm then I’m hardly out anything.
>>
>>3414206
>That's not true at all. If you bought Ektar at the end of 2017 with a 2019 exp and haven't kept it in the fridge...I have some bad news for you

Why people would even stockpile a basic, widely available film for over a year is a mystery to me. I’ve never had a problem with degrading film but I also don’t hoard and I live in a very mild climate. That said I’ve still done stuff people frown upon like leave half finished rolls in bodies for a long time and even that hasn’t ever really fucked it up.

Obvs mileage may vary if you’re a swamp dweller
>>
What are some good film photography youtubers? (besides NF)
>>
>>3414363
I like matt day. Seems like a pretty straightforward dude.
>>
>>3414352
Don't believe so
>>
>>3414362
>Why people would even stockpile a basic, widely available film for over a year is a mystery to me.

I bought 10 rolls of it, didn't like it, and just put the remaining 8 rolls aside while I used films I liked.
>>
>>3414363
willem
>>
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got some dope half-frame shots

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>>3414376

fuck, I have to resize

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>>3414377

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>>3414379

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>>3414272
Literally any working EOS camera aside from the 750 is a fine choice.
I personally prefer the smallest ones; ie the 500 and 300 models, because they're so light.

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>>3414030
Damn son, this is one a e s t h e t i c image.
>>
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>>3413971
Come and join the elite, brother.
When you are ready, you will know.

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>>3414342
I've got one that works. It's one of the better FSU m39 bodies out there, integrated rangefinder and diopter correction and all that fancy shit (such as tangerines, lingerie, and sandwiches upon the sea). The other nice ones are the Leica ii-style Zorkis and Feds, Kievs (for the Contax mount), and any of the "non-export" models that don't have slow speeds (below 1/30). All the FSU lenses are decent (because the crap ones haven't survived).

As for FSU filters, I've got some A36 push-on filters for my Industar-22 which I'm certainly trying out perhaps in March already once the fucking light comes back in.

>>3414357
You're supposed to turn the counter back against the winding direction all the way to zero once you've loaded to the point where that's where the film is. That's how it works in all Leica ii descendants, no self-resetting counters here. Works on both 24 and 36 frames.
>>
Does anyone here have experience with Fomadon Excel? Supposed to be a clone of Xtol.
Thinking about using it since I don't feel like dealing with 5L of Xtol at this time of the year.
>>
picked up some rolls from the fuji store yesterday. first time using them for film dev. they do c-41 dev for $1.80 a roll with a 3 day wait, free dev if I get the prints for $6.30. seemed like a pretty good deal. well, turns out they don't cut and sleeve the negatives. just toss the roll inside the print package tightly coiled with tape keeping it from unravelling.

so uh, any tips for home cutting negatives? xacto + straight edge or the good ol' scissors? don't want to fuck things up.
only time I've cut film was at college and I had a light box and a neat guillotine.
>>
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>>3414386
thanks anon

>>3414433
ive never seen a reason to use anything but scissors.

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I got quite some Fujichrome 100 rolls for free. Unfortunately they have been expired in tthe late 80's. Is it even worth to still shoot them or should I sell thm to the lomo crowd?
>>
>>3414436
A cool car does not automatically make a cool photo.
This is a boring setting, lighting, and angle. You obviously relied entirely on the subject to carry your snapshit.
>>
so fgts, what is the weirdest/most obscure film that you have shot?

I'm sending in a roll 3M ColorSlide CS 20 640ASA that came half shot with my XA2. I cant really find anything on it except for a gallery on lomography for a different iso.
>>
>>3414461
i just select random scans to add to my posts here. i knew it was a snapshit when taking it lol

>>3414466
Fuji Trebi 100C probably. japan-only e6 slide film for n00bs. pic related
>>
>>3414469
also have a few rolls of konica chrome r-50. even google doesn't pull anything up
>>
Is medium format significantly more difficult than 35mm?
>>
>>3414488
>Is medium format significantly more difficult than 35mm?
Kiiiiinda.

Okay, so, there's multiple different things here. First off, 35mm cameras tend to be much easier to use at a given price point. You can get a 35mm point & shoot for a nickel. You can get a 35mm SLR for about twenty bucks. You can get an autofocus 35mm SLR for about forty bucks.

In the medium format world, autofocus is rare. Hell, autoexposure is rare. Rare and expensive. So a medium format SLR with autofocus and autoexposure is probably going to run you at least a grand.

So if you're buying a camera on a typical-/p/-user budget, you're probably going to be getting something older with manual focus (possibly through-the-lens like an old SLR or TLR, possibly just with zone focusing like most folding cameras), and possibly even getting something without a built-in meter and autoexposure modes. So doing that stuff manually adds a bit of challenge.

Other than that, no, it's not significantly more difficult than shooting 35mm. So a manual focus, manual exposure medium format SLR vs a manual focus, manual exposure 35mm SLR, pretty much the same level of difficulty.
>>
>>3414436
Holy shit why is a stratos parked at what looks like a school?
>>
anyone going to be picking up the Lomography Berlin 400 B&W? It looks interesting but I've never looked at lomography as anything but pop photography stuff
>>
>>3414527
I'll get couple rolls, I'd rather shoot Trix for that kind of money though.
Lomography's CN stuff is made by Kodak, based on their older emulsion formulas. Worth it if you can get it for cheap. The cameras are just plastic memeshit and idk why anyone would pay any money for their "art" lenses either.
>>
Been thinking of getting a film camera. I own a Nikkor AF-S 50mm f/1.8G which doesn't let me manually adjust aperture. Am I shit out of luck or is there some older cheap nikon camera that can adjust the aperture?
>>
>>3414564
A bunch of the more recent Nikon film bodies can be used with AF-S/G lenses.
A Nikon F90X with the MB-10 battery grip should cost you less than 100€.
>>
>>3414564
For something real cheap get a Nikon F80/N80. You could get one for about 40 bucks.
>>
>>3414466
For me its just Kodak vision 3 500t, though I have some Fuji eterna 250d yet to shoot which seems exciting.
>>
>>3414466
Fuji Astia 100F. Not really rare, but it is out of production nowadays. Expired, but stored frozen so it came out fine. Still prefer the look of Velvia 50 and especially of Provia 100F.
>>
>>3414516
It's owned by an engineering prof. It's actually a Lister Bell kit, but it's god damn beautiful still
>>
>>3414331
Those two cameras don't really compare. A C330 weighs almost a kilo more than an 124g (2040g w. 80mm lens vs 1100g).
I did some handheld shooting with my C33, but it isn't something you want to do all the time.
>>
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>>3414564
>Nikkor AF-S 50mm f/1.8G
Au contraire, you're in luck. that's a real nice lens and the Nikon N80 lets you fully control it on all shooting modes, and they go for dirt cheap and have all the good stuff.
got mine for $30 and use it with the 35mm/1.8G DX all the time. AF is blazing fast.

the F100 can also take full control of AF-S G lenses but they're way more expensive as they're pro-level tough as nails.
>>
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>>3414614
>film camera
>DX lens
>>
>>3414161
tbf to make at home development worthwhile you need to shoot a lot; chemicals can get unusable when you let them sit for too long

plus paying for development isnt that bad, scanning is much more expensive
>>
i have a 50mm lens, what other lenses should i get?
>>
>>3414617
A lot of DX lenses (including the 35/1.8G DX) cover all or most of a full frame. Apparently the 35 has a little bit of vignetting in the corners but that's pretty much it.
>>
>>3414642
A high-end ultrawide architectural tilt-shift lens, a stereoscopic lens for 3D photos, and a fisheye.

Or maybe you could give us some indication of what kind of camera you have and what sort of things you like to shoot so we can actually recommend things that will help you?
>>
>>3414240
>>3414242
This but don't expect $100 camera. If you are shooting mf make it worth it. What's the point in a larger heavier camera if it's shit.
>>
>>3414617
Don't know about this specific lens, but image circle is not always *exactly* the sensor/film area the lens is intended for.
Plus it's variable, when you stop down it increases, and when you focus closer than infinity it also increases. And for longer focals the effect is more pronounced. For instance, the an old 135mm nikon RF lens would cover even a 6x6 medium format frame, including infinity (with bad edges). It was sold by bronica as a legitimate lens for their 6x6 cameras (the ones before the SQ series, like S2, EC, etc.).
>>
Look what I got for Christmas!
>>
>>3414642
28mm and 135mm primes
>>
Is Tri-X ISO 400 the best black and white film for someone starting out in film?
>>
>>3414642
85mm prime (for portraits) & 28mm prime
>>
>>3414672
unironically, yes. I think it's better to learn on a high-contrast film stock since they're less forgiving and will make you compensate for your problems quickly.
Don't bother with HP5+, it's far too gray.
>>
>>3414663
Damn. Very nice!
>>
>>3414404
HP5+ @ 3200 developed in stock excel, but cant remember the time.

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>>3414689
Same roll

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>>3414690

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>>3414689
>>3414690
>>3414691
>shooting HP5+ @3200
the absolute state of this board.
>>
>>3414663
Nice Minolta 35.

>>3414689
>>3414690
>>3414691
Thanks for the scans, looks pretty good.

>>3414692
>not printing your HP5+ negs with contrast filters
>>
2019 in 3 hours over here. I want to go and shoot the fireworks but I'm a lazy NEET and don't want to go outside. Also forgot I had a b&w roll loaded in the camera and with only a few frames snapped, I thought I'd use my color roll for this. Anyone here going out to shoot the fireworks? I bet you're all normalfags who will be going to parties and such.
>>
>>3414638
hc110 lasts forever
rodinal lasts forever
fixer lasts for months once diluted. a bottle of concentrate gives multiple dilutions.
>>
>>3414694
just buy fucking tri-X or foma if you want contrast, jesus fuck
>>
>>3414719
Fomapan 200 is the only B&W stock I shoot in 120. Not gonna buy Trix when HP5+ is cheaper.
>>
>>3414617
lel it does vignette a little bit but only in certain conditions and even then it isn't noticeable or hard enough to be annoying.
I also have the 50mm/1.8G FX but with every other film body having a 50mm, the wider 35mm feels real nice and refreshing to shoot outside. I like it even better on the film body than with the APS-C Nikon I originaly bought it for.
>>
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>>3414705
Nope.

Playing vidya, fireworks going off outside. It's a blizzard anyway, fuck going out there, you can't even fucking see the rockets. Them fucking normies man.

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>>3414663
>>3414732
lovely minoltas
>>
>>3414732
Nice. Name of the girl?
>>
>>3414737
Shigure
>>
Happy new year faggots
>>
I wont be able to get a scanner for awhile. What are my alternative options what’s the general consensus on the darkoom.com
>>
>>3414780
I cobbled together a dslr setup. ipad for lightbox, stacked glass panes on top of the screen to put the negatives on (so the screen pixels on the tablet will be blurry when you focus on the negative), and a cheapo film carrier from amazon to keep the negatives flat.

Dslr mounted on ball head, pointed down at ipad. Nifty 50 with 22mm macro tube mounted. Camera set to f/8 @ 100 iso, two second delay on the shutter.

Negative fill the frame of my crop sensor dslr just right with this setup. Already had everything, except for the glass, which was only a few bucks at the hardware store. It may sound like a pain, but once you get it all ironed out it’s a snap. Two biggest hurdles I dealt with were making sure the white background pixels from the ioad weren’t getting captured in my “scans” and keeping the negatives flat (hence the cheap film carrier thingy).
>>
>>3414795
just put a piece of tracing paper on the ipad
>>
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I was at the Zurich Zoo for this shoot; a lot of animals were behind a glass pane which I tired to work around but the penguins were in an open air exhibit. I'm not sure what happened but this was the result; I was shooting with Minolta's 300mm f/4.5 at 1/60 with a tripod, hence the blur.

That shot of the Macaw would have been nice but the same happened with it

>>3413382
>>3413403
I got a T3 for my grandma so she'd have something better than that Ricoh that's falling about and then she told me she didn't want any other cameras -.-

>>3413804
Whole some goodness

>>3413808
Shit's expensive, yo

>>3413812
>>3414341
I don't get it.
>>
>>3414855
Your camera has a sticky shutter, either get a CLA done or buy another camera body. The second option is probably cheaper.
>>
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>>3414858
Maybe you're right, I didn't have this happen on any other roll. I'll remember this and CLA the body if it happens again.

Here's the Macaw I was talking about
>>
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>>3414855
>>3414860
there's likely an issue with the 2nd curtain. it's getting stuck or not winding properly.
same thing happened to my minolta XG-M after shooting in a dusty environment for a week. only the right side of the pictures was getting exposed. popped the back open to check the shutter and pic related is what I get when shooting at x sync speed and below.
tech said a CLA and manually resetting the shutter curtains fixed it but for the money I ended up getting a X-700 body.
>>
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>>3414865
I was shooting the x700, too. I could repair it, but I'd prefer to spend the money on a black body XD11.

Thanks for the advice.
>>
>>3414850
Thought about that, but I figured the more light from the ipad screen illuminating the negative, the better. Idk.
>>
>>3414866
>black body XD11
ayy that's exactly what I'm after at the moment, a black XD/7/11. thinking of ordering one from japan, or a black XE. they look so sexy lel.
it's one of the reasons why the stuck shutter XG-M is gonna be sitting on my desk for a long time.
>>
i want to stand develop a foma 400 with paper developer (adox neutol). My first thought was to dilute it like rodinal, 1+100/150 as one shot. What are your suggestions?

>inb4 use film dev
Fuck that I want a universal developer and using the paper one is the cheapest way.
>>
I‘m in Tokyo now, what film should I buy for my Nikon F?
>>
>>3415128
kodak portra 800
>>
>>3414590
Did he use a Busso V6 or did he have them modify it to accept a more common engine?
>>
If you could be transported to any time/place in the universe to photograph some pics for a day, where/when would u want to go?
>>
>>3415128
Superia Premium.
>>
Bought this guy the other day, I've shot a few rolls on it already but haven't developed them yet, I am so excited though, This is my first medium format camera, how did I do /p/?
>>
>>3415235

I love mine.

But I have that exact same meter and it is busted.

Bought a replacement and it is busted too.

Not sure what I will do now.
>>
>>3415222
Someone needs to go back and recapture it

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Magnificent_Eleven
>>
>>3415236
What meter? I thought this camera didn't have a meter, so I have just been using a 35mm SLR to light meter everything.
>>
>>3415129
Thanks. 1900 yen.

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>>3415222
Back to the October Revolution to capture it on film with John Reed
>>
>>3415239

The newer revisions (ETRS and ETRSi) have an optional prism finder with a meter built in. The AE2 and AE3, the ae1 is just a normal prism finder.
>>
Thoughts about the Nikon F?
>>
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I recently shot some kodak 5285 not realising that means ektachrome 100D. It ended up being shot as a negative at 100 and cross processed in tetenal c41. I'm not even mad at the results and its my first time cross processing slides

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>>3415285
post others
>>
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>>3415285
>>3415285
more, please
>>
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>>3415289
>>3415291
I'm still working on colour balancing them but the results really interest me, you get the characteristic punch of a slide in the form of a negative. The only main downside being grain and colour shifts.

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is he serious? are people really that stupid?
>>
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>>3415296

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>>
>>3415244
It's a Nikon rangefinder with a prism and a mirror box, i.e. an early SLR. For actual shooting get an F2.
>>
>>3413804
>What should I expect?
Photos.
>>
>>3415240
jesus i was kidding. that's probably the most expensive film in the store lol
>>
>>3415329
I'm sure it'll come in handy
>>
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>>3415336
>goes to japan
>buys kodak
>>
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>>3415298
i don't really see anything wrong?

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>>3415355
wtf, man. I bought mine for 5€ a year ago - including flash, box and papers.
>>
>>3415360
im guessing thrift store?

i've bought and sold 5 xa2s in the past few years. never had a problem selling them for $50-60 in user condition.
>>
>>3415360
You can often find great deals on cameras like that from thrift stores, antique stores, and people who just don’t know the value of them. Doesn’t mean they’re not valuable.

It’s the difference between the “I just stumbled across this” market and the “I am looking online for this specific exact camera model” market. The latter commands much higher prices because it consolidates all of the demand from everywhere in the country/region/world onto the limited supply provided by people who know they’re worth selling. The former is mostly people who don’t think it has any value trying to sell to people who don’t think it has any value so someone who values it can sweep in and buy a $100 camera for €5.
>>
>>3415235
>>3415239

You didn't buy a meter? Er... Is that not a metered prism on the camera? It looks the same as mine, which as a meter in it. I mean, you've got a fucking ISO dial there...
>>
>>3415361
>>3415365
Actually, I found mine on ebay. I guess it was that cheap due to the seller simply putting 'olympus camera' in the auction title and using the all-black box as the thumbnail.
>>
>>3415374
ah, well ya you can really use that situation to judge what a camera is worth.

otherwise, mamiya 6 50mm lenses are worth $300, cause that's what i paid due to a poorly worded ebay listing that neglected to mention the mount or the fact it was for a mamiya 6

>>3415365
exactly lol. I don't know how people equate price at a thrift store to market value
>>
>>3415374
Yep, that’ll do it.
>>
>>3415360
>>3415361
why is this so hype? I own 4 xa's and didn't pay more than 20€ for any of them and I felt 20 was a rip off already. Feels good to be european I guess
>>
>>3415379
the xa2 is optically superior to the xa

i hate the xa but love the xa2
>>
>>3415383
I was talking about the 2 and 3 though, never owned the regular XA or XA1 all I need is the 4.
Just bought another pristine XA2 for 12 bucks shipped. I should start selling them overseas it seems.
>>
>>3415329
>bought two rolls of portra 800 in Germany for like 25 bucks
>only shot one roll of it during the trip
>sent out all my film from the trip to get developed
>tfw i accidentally sent the unexposed roll of portra 800 and they developed it
Feelsbadman
>>
>>3413971
>elitist
>garbage
Pick one
>>
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>>3415472
Patrician film snapshits.

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>>
I'd like to buy 135 film SLR and I'm looking for a system with good pancakes. What would you recommend in 35 to 50mm range?

I only heard Hexanon 40/1.8 is great, but never had the chance to use it.
>>
>>3415481
Canon EOS has the 40/2.8 pancake.
>>
>>3415481
EOS + 40mm would be fastest and probably "best"

Ricoh SLR + 40mm would be cheapest

Olympus SLR + 40mm would be sexiest
>>
>>3415481
Not cheap but hnnnng

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>>
>just found a Pentax k1000 with a 50mm f/2.0 lens in my parent's house
wew I think I will buy Tri-X 400 and try film for the first time...am I doing it right?
>>
>>3415481
Pentax 40mm f/2.8
>>
>>3413382
Should I pick up a Nikon f5? What film do you guys recommend?
>>
Oh boy an EOS 3 for sale for $200 in my area. Is it worth it to be able to consolidate all my lenses into EF? I still have a T2i I used in college.

But then again I could just put new light seals in my AE-1 Program.
>>
>>3415544
Spending $200 on a film EOS seems a little ridiculous to me when you can get something like a 5/AE/AE2 or an Elan 7 for under a hundred bucks, or just get an older EOS of some sort for like $10.
>>
>>3415544

I did the same thing with my mount. Got a Minolta a7 and share lenses with my Sony a7.

Lovely little lenses, and all but the modern gen 2 SSM lenses are dirt cheap now too.
>>
>>3415551
EOS 3 is weather sealed and tough as fuck, while being the last and latest generation in film EOS, sharing tech stuff with the last EOS 1V, like the AF system.
the Elan 7N is a badass camera, no doubt about it, but the EOS 3 is in another level. the 1V or 3 are THE eos film bodies to get it you have some nice EF L series glass.

>>3415544
$200 would be a good price if it includes some OK lens. for body only it's a bit overpriced, as they go for around $150.
>a T2i
EF-S lenses for crop sensor digital cameras don't work at all on film bodies. modern EF lenses do.
>>
>>3415368
I may not understand how to use this meter if there is one, or its possible that it doesn't work, but for me using an external meter is good enough.
>>
>>3415481
>>3415523
Yep, I believe Pentax is considered to be the king of pancake makers.
>>
>>3415596
Forgot pic

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>>
>>3415564
don't you still need an adapter for the a7? at which point, brand for the film SLR doesn't matter
>>
>>3415617

Yes, but it has full support for all a-mount lenses.

Plus I had a Sony DSLR before the a7.
>>
velvia for artificial light portraits, y/n?
>>
>>3415564
Absolutely. I look for a lot of older SR mount stuff, so I end up scrolling past a lot of minolta autofocus glass. It doesn’t have the same collectors’ appeal as the manual focus stuff, so much of it is super cheap.

The next time you’re shopping around, check out goodwill’s auction site. It’s pretty competitive there for older minolta gear, but the autofocus stuff comes and goes without much notice.
>>
>>3415640
It was my understanding that velvia oversaturates colors, leading to overy pink skin.
>>
>>3415640
If you have to ask the question, no.

Velvia's whole raison d'être is that it has highly saturated colors, especially reds. As such, it fucks up skin tones. It's also daylight-balanced, so that might get compounded by the artificial lighting (flash would probably be okay, but tungsten would come out looking like redscale).

If you're wanting to make your skin tones look extra red, then sure. And also note that this advice is mainly for light-skinned people--black people aren't so pink to start out with, so photographing them with Velvia isn't as big a deal.

But if you have to ask, you probably don't already know all of this and aren't going for a specific extra-red-in-the-skintones look, so no, don't shoot artificial light portraits with Velvia.
>>
>>3415645

The autofocus stuff is highly underrated. A good bit of it is just SR lens designs adapted to autofocus.

The later plastic stuff isn’t worth the cost of shipping though.
>>
So I just received a vintage Polaroid 1000 OneStep from my Aunty which is pretty cool since I've never gotten into instant film and have been considering getting on of the new Polaroid OneStep 2. The thing takes SX70 film but I've found that Polaroid Originals still makes SX70 film as well as Polaroid 600 film. They also make an ND filter so you can use 600 film in SX70 film camera
https://eu.polaroidoriginals.com/products/neutral-density-filter-pack

Anyway here are a few questions:
Does anyone know of the cheapest place to buy either SX70/600 film in Australia? cheapest place I've found is around $32 Australian for a pack.
Are flashbars like link related worth getting? Or is a dedicated flash like the Polaroid Q-light a better option?
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Flash-Bar-for-Vintage-Polaroid-SX-70-OneStep-Folding-Instant-Film-Land-Cameras/332908285207?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
>>
>>3415640
some things to think about. in the end it comes down for what look you're going for.

1.) flashes err on the cool side of the spectrum, especially cheap ones. on velvia this may go blueish/magenta

2.) flash highlights blemishes. velvia's tendency to exaggerate reds will further highlight them.

3.) velvia's limited dynamic range gives you the ability to create really dynamic images that will exaggerate the utilization of your aperture to underexpose ambient light, resulting in an extremely poppy subject

4.) velvia is a pretty specialized film. if you're looking for standard portraits it's probably not the best choice. but, if you're wanting a certain punchier look and your not shooting gingers or people with naturally red complexions, i'd say go for it. you can always reduce red in post too.

5.) if you want examples, good "velvia skateboarding"
>>
newbie here, I'm gonna be shooting in snow probably with something cheap like superia, any advice for exposing?
>>
>>3415800
Expose up to a stop over, this depends on how sensitive your metering is to the snow.
>>
What film should I get? Thinking about the kodak Portra 400?
>>
>>3415800
if you're using your built in meter:

shoot +2 if it's sunny
shoot +1 if it's cloudy or snowing

so over the holidays i stumbled upon a fuckton of old slides i shot in the mid 2000s. scanned a few tonight

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2/3 these are all from a Canon AE-1 and Zenitar 16mm fisheye on Fuji Provia 100F

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>>
3/3

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Does the focal length of a camera affect the speed? i.e would a 35mm at f2 be quicker than a 50mm at f2? I have a 50mm lens and I mostly like to shoot low light, but I was looking at getting a 35mm lens as the 50mm feels a bit too tight sometimes.

I've also been looking at getting a point and shoot, I really like my A1 but sometimes it feels a bit too bulky if I'm going somewhere with friends. How much of a step down would getting a point and shoot be from the A1. Is it really worth the money to get a yashica, contax or olympus seeing as I've already got the A1?

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>>
>>3415928
Nope. The whole point of f/stops is that they abstract the light gathering ability of a lens away from the focal length. So a 35mm f/2 slaps the sensor with the same amount of light as a 50mm f/2.
>>
>>3415570
Besides the kit lenses I don't have any EF-S lenses, so I wouldn't have to worry about that. The only thing is that I also have another expensive hobby (cars) that would eat up lens money.
>>
>>3415570
>EOS 3 is weather sealed and tough as fuck, while being the last and latest generation in film EOS, sharing tech stuff with the last EOS 1V, like the AF system.
I understand that it's one of the highest-spec SLRs out there, but... so? It's not like a digital SLR where the higher end/newer bodies also give you better image quality. An EOS 1V and an EOS 650 will give you the exact image given the same film and lens.

Like, yes, it can shoot 7FPS. You can burn through a whole roll of film in five seconds and change. But would you really want to do that in 2019? Didn't everyone who needs a shutter rate that fast switch to digital?

Similarly, it's got an AF system that's pro even by today's standards, and if your film photography is primarily of fast-moving subjects where you need to lock on focus, that makes sense, but for anyone who's just taking pictures of things other than sporting events, is it really worth the extra money?

And yeah, it's built like a tank, but if you can buy a lower-end film EOS for ten bucks, you can burn through twenty cheap ones before the EOS-3 makes financial sense based on durability.

Granted, it would be super hypocritical of me to criticize someone else for making a ridiculous, extravagant, and unnecessary camera purchase (ask me about my Leica M9), but it just seems odd to me to spend that much money on a 35mm that works just like a much cheaper 35mm but with features designed to help you shoot things almost no one shoots on 35mm anymore.
>>
>>3415936

That is actually incorrect. An f-number is just a ratio of the focal length to the entrance pupil.

While it does usually work out that way, where the wider the aperture, the more light, that isn't always true for every lens design.

It would be better to look at t-stops for light transmission.
>>
>>3415985
>That is actually incorrect.
While, yes, technically it's true that it's t/stops that measure the actual light transmission:

1. For still photography, f/stops are a close enough approximation for 99% of lenses that they rarely even list t/stops. For those few lenses where it makes a significant difference (like the Minolta/Sony 135STF), it's made very obvious.
2. The difference in focal length still isn't what causes a difference in t/stop (except inasmuch as it relates to the f/stop), so it's not really relevant to the guy's question.

But yes, to satisfy your pedantry, a 35mm f/2 slaps the film with the same amount of light as a 50mm f/2, give or take some small amount (usually a small fraction of a stop) depending on the complexity of the optical design and the quality of the glass used.
>>
>>3415956
I get your point. It has some quite specialized features that are useful for some situations that might not show up often. but it's not like there's a massive difference in price. it's a $150 camera, which can be found for less than $100 on a good day. I mean, fucking pentax k1000 or canon AE-1 go for that everyday, crazy shit. but not just because an EOS 500 goes for $10 makes the Elan 7NE for $70 or EOS 3 for $150 awful bad deals.

In the end, it depends on the specific user needs. sure you are likely to get that shot with the cheaper EOS film body, but if having the better AF or metering system, finer 1/3 step adjustments and higher 1/250 sync speed will make getting the shot way easier, and you know you're gonna be using the camera a lot, dropping the extra $100 once is a no brainer for me. it's not like I'd be paying a grand for those extra features.
>>
>>3415472
pretty insightful for a greentext shitpost
>>
>>3413886
If you're in North America, freestylephoto. biz. The Arista brand they carry is more than likely Foma and the chemicals are likely Unicolor.
>>
What are some good film IG's you guys follow?
>>
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Just unboxed and set up my plustek 8100 and did my first scans. I'm really excited lads. got it from the local amazon for $186 brand new with shipping and taxes.

pic related a scan from the first roll I put thru a camera I recently got. Also got the prints and they are all overexposed to the point of having a bunch of near pure white spaces. thought the camera meter was busted and overexposing bad but the scans came out perfectly exposed, and with tons more details all over. not getting prints with this place anymore. they also scratched the fuck out of the negs. hope it was the print machine as I left a couple more rolls but just for dev.

really happy with it, but I still have to git gud at editing and correcting the digitized images.
tried doing a 48 bit HDR RAW scan to .tiff format but it came out dark as fuck. inverting it in gimp resulted in a nearly white with some blue image. dunno where I messed up, or do gimp doesn't like that stuff? don't have photoshop at the moment to try editing the raw with it.

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>>3416072
You'd probably have to set the black and white points, don't know how to do that in gimp though.
>>
>>3416050
>following film InstantGratifications
um sweaty we're all slow gratification type here
>>
>>3416086
>sweaty
>>
>>3416050
magnumphotos

and go from there
>>
>>3415574
Nevermind, I figured out the meter, I didnt realize I had to press the AE button on the front.
>>
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Sup brehs
Just shot my first roll of film, it was kodacolor200. This is also my first ever camera that's not attached to a phone so I'm also trying to get to grips with photography in general as well.

I'm having the time of my life, but I quickly realised 200 speed is kinda shit because I can't really shoot indoors and it's always cloudy and the days are super short here in central europe.

What higher speed film do you guys recommend to a newfag? I've got my mind set on lomography 800 as it's affordable and I prefer the colour palette to ultramax 400, as well as being higher speed.

Will I just waste a roll of Tri-X at the moment? I absolutely adore its look but I know it's very unforgiving with regards to exposure. Or would it be a good learning tool?

And is it worth buying the new canon nifty fifty or will a used old one suffice? The old ones go for quite a hefty price used so they're only £20 cheaper so I thought I may as well buy the new one if it's worth that difference in price.
>>
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>>3416233
here's a tip

shooting ANY colour film indoors is going to suck ass. don't even bother. the various colour temperatures of artificial lights will fuck your shit up and look terrible most of the time.

sure you could get some 800 speed color stuff. but your colours are going to be so fucking wacky and film so grainy you'll just say fuck it to film and go back to being a digipleb.

tri-x @ 1600 for indoors.

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>>3416234
Thanks lad
A question regarding light metering: Right now I'm just relying on the in-camera metering and usually just use aperture priority outdoors and let it set the shutter speed for me. Considering mine's a mid 90s SLR, is it fine to rely on it? Or will it fuck me over?
I've heard people say they're pointless in very low light when doing longer exposures.
>>
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>>3416233
Portra 400 isn't bad for indoors (I have yet to try it in 800 speed, but I have a roll in my fridge), in fact I did not do any color adjustments for this photo. Its just a little pricey but the price is worth it.

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>>3416236
It's totally fine and many 90s SLRs exceed expensive dedicated meters in terms of low-light sensitivity.
>>
>>3416241
see >>3416236

this is what i meant by indoor lighting will look fucking terrible
>>
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>>3416244
my photo was shot on a camera that does AP metering only, and is also from the 70s.
and so was this, This one is on Fuji Superia 400.

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>>3416236
The other anon (>>3416234) is right.
Unless you got a tripod and an 80A filter, indoors shots will look like crap colour wise. B&W is much better when the colour quality of the scene is crappy (like artificial tungsten light).
>picrelated
Sometimes you can correct (up to an extent), but don't expect much cause negatives' underexposure latitude is minimal and you'd be trying to push the blue channel 2 stops.

>a mid 90s SLR, is it fine to rely on it? Or will it fuck me over?
Every lightmeter after the '60's is perfectly fine. The lightmeter in any SLR after the '80's, let alone '90's, is as good as it gets and very close to the meters in modern dSLRs. Learn how the metering modes work, and trust it without hesitation.

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>>
>shooting color indoors
use fuji, their 4 layer tech and low contrast together deal with artificial lighting very well
or try the old school methods of playing with 80b 85b fld filters cto ctb green gels
>>
>>3416250
none of that has anything to do with how colour negative film balanced for daylight records indoor light

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Hey guys I want to get into shooting 35mm film. What's are good cheap camera to start with. And cheap lenes to go with it. I have some canon ef and hellos 422 lens can I some how adapt those to work on said camera?
>>
>>3416265
If you have lenses that work on EF mount (not EF-S), including an adapted Helios, you should be able to get an old film-era Canon Rebel for like five dollars and you're good to go.
>>
>>3416265
>I have some canon ef and hellos 422 lens
the canon EOS film cameras can mount the EF lenses (but not EF-S) and are dirt cheap and they're really good. Look for Rebel 2000, K2, Ti, Elan II, Elan 7.

for the helios, any screw mount M42 camera will take it, like pentax spotmatic, praktica, old Zenit, etc. they go for cheap but it's a mount from the early '60s so expect lots of dead and old cameras.
>>
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>>3414713
>hc110 lasts forever

You say that, but I just got my first bottle of HC-110 (I've been developing with D-76 before), and I find the bottle has an expiration date of Oct, 2019
Explain.
>>
>>3416336
Rodinal bottles also have expiration dates that aren't several years from now, yet both Rodinal and HC110 are known for lasting for years in the syrup form. Kodak just can't guarantee that the developer will stay usable beyond the expiration date because idiots like you will mix water straight into the bottle.
>>
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>>3413382
sorry about the lines, not sure why. I think it was the camera as every roll seemed to have these.

Shot on a Konica C35 AF2. Ilford Delta 100

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>>3416233
Is that camera EF? If so I suggest saving up for one of the faster 50mm lenses like the 1.4. It's pricey but sharp as hell and will really help with the slower speed films.

If you're looking for help with photography I'd highly suggest just bringing your camera everywhere. Always have a few rolls spare and just shoot what you see. I'm sure that camera has a meter so try to let the camera do the work for you and focus on what you want to shoot. What kind of composition are you looking for? The more you shoot the more you get a feel for having a balanced scene.
>>
shoot'n panos dis mornin'
>>
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>>3416399
Ilford delta is pretty underrated though, pic related panf+

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Hey lads, how do you usually clean your negs for scanning? I use an alcohol/water/surfactant solution with microfiber cloth usually, but there has got to be a better way. Here's a neg I didn't clean at all, my house is about 160 years old and pretty dusty.

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>>3414437
Dude its film. Shoot one, if its not what you want who cares. You learn something every time you press that shutter. So just try one, then if you don't like it sell to lomo's.

Don't overthink this; it's art.
>>
>>3416441
post results of prior exposures please
>>
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>>3416486
1/3

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>>
File: Crane Pano.jpg (1.3 MB, 2000x857)
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>>
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3/3

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>>
>>3413837
cute
>>
>>3416491
wow first one is stunning
>>
>>3416515
thanks anon

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>>
Anybody have any recommended light tables for DSLR "scanning" of film?
>>
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>moved to yurop
>shoot tons of film
>develop and scan cost 7 times as much as I'm used to

what do

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>>
>>3416560
1 develop yourself
2 scan yourself
>>
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>>3416559
if you're only doing 35mm just buy an es-1 and aim it out the window

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>>
>>3416560
y u posting photos from hanoi if yer in yurope

shoulda got yo shit deved there boi
>>
>>3416566
While I only have 135 right now, I know I'm going to pick up MF and possibly LF in the coming year
>>
>>3416571
dslr scanning 120 is a pain, but do-able. for LF fuck that.

get an es-1 for 135 and use that till you get 120/LF. for those get a V700/V800
>>
>>3416567
cause all i have right now are old photos which I developed & scan at $1.29 per roll and takes like 3 hours

can't justify paying €15 per roll to these lazy niggers and still have to wait 5 days to get my photos

self developing C41 doesn't seem cost effective either.
>>
>>3416575
>self developing C41 doesn't seem cost effective either.

I mean, I get 60 rolls out of my $63 C41 Tetenal kit (yurope company)
>>
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>>3416575
>>3416577

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anyone know of where to get 4x5 large format film developed? considering buying a view camera but dont have the space for a darkroom.
>>
>>3416584
dont need a darkroom, they make daylight tanks for 4x5

https://[Jewish Camerastore in NYC]/c/product/63620-REG/Yankee_YACF45_Cut_Film_Daylight_Developing.html
>>
So yeah, I slammed my Nikkor 50/1.8 AI-s's front to a door so hard it knocked some elements out of alignmet. Now I'm using 50/1.4D on my FM2n aaaaand it doesn't really feel that great. No surprises there. So what's the smoothest to focus 50mm lens I can get for my FM2? Preferably something that is quite easy to find new or used? Budget is anything around 500euros.

Gear thread didnt help me. Pls halp.
>>
New thread (bread?)
>>3416932
>>3416932
>>3416932
>>
>>3414380
What type of film did you use? I love the blacks
>>
>>3417391
FP4+ at 320
>>
>>3416566
damn thats a nice car. i miss all the rich old people in kits but the neighbourhood is deadly boring.



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