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File: PortraMeme.jpg (596 KB, 1000x1000)
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portra meme edition

Old thread: >>3392278
All film photography related questions and general discussion on film photography is to take place in this thread.
35mm, 120, large format, developing, scanning, labs, etc.
Feel free to post photos, we want to see that beautiful grainy goodness!

>posting in /fgt/ doesn't make you gay, you've never fucked with portra

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>>3397030
Opinions on portra 800? I've never tried it in that speed
>>
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>>3397030
Does anyone else shoot with an unmetered camera and just guess exposures? Its fun to do sometimes and at most im only 2 stops off.

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>>
>>3397065
Yeah I do but two fucking stops? Lmao outdoors I’m off max half a stop and indoors 1 stop
>>
what ASA do i need for 800mm in daylight, without a tripod? i mean, not proper 800, but 200mm with 2 teleconverters. is it possible at all?
>>
>>3397066
I'm still learning to read indoor and less common light levels, especially in fading light where its more difficult to notice changes.
>>3397080
I would guess 400 speed would be fine depending on the aperture you're using
>>
>>3397084
aperture will be as open as my lens can go, i don't really care about image Quality that much. are you sure 400 is ok? i use 200 and handheld 400mm is not possible without a tripod.
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>>3397066
>you

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>>3397090
I was shooting 300mm at 50iso recently with no troubles though it was with an f4 lens, maybe you should just push to 800 or 1600 like a madman to be safe.
>>
>>3397095
Being off 2 stops outside is literally impossible if you even attempt to use sunny 16 literature
>>
>>3397097
well thats strange. with my 400mm i could either choose 1/500s and get underexposure, or get a shaky picture. i guess the teleconverter is making a large impact. the lens is only 200mm
>>
>>3397065
I go for periods guessing when I'm out shooting for the day. I'm usually pretty well on when I do stop to check
>>
>>3397043
It's alright
>>
>>3397100
You're right, I forgot tc usually consumes as much light as the crop factor, shouldnt you just use a film 1-2 stops faster than the one you used then?
>>
What kind of glass is recommended to sandwich the film when scanning it?
I've scanned with a dslr many times before, but always very badly with mediocre or terrible results.
I want to have the film as flat as possible and use a lightpad, so I can do 1:1 scanning and then stitch together instead of frame covering about the digital one.
Current results with film on a carton tube.
Geypeg to snapseed to geypeg because I haven't pirated CS in this laptop.
>>
I guess I could ask this question in /fgt/ or /gear/.

Is ~$400 a good deal for all this?
Toyo 4x5 Omega View
1x 210mm
2x 100mm
5x film holders
Focus hood
6x7 Film Back
Polaroid Back (useless as film in gone)
Bag Bellow
Tripod
Case for everything

The camera itself is in good condition, and the tripod works but might be going. I've been thinking about getting into landscape and portraits with something large and methodical.
>>
>>3397151
That's a really good deal anon. All of that goes for around 1k ish
>>
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>>3397113
Anti-newton glass. The kind you use in enlargers.
>>
>>3397182
Right, thanks. I knew it had the name of a physicist.
>>
>>3397113
Any glass is going to limit your potential resolution. Fluid mounting is the only option for highest possible results while keeping your film flat.
Anti newton glass is fine for small enlargements.
>>
>>3397198
My expectation is to have a simple and fast workflow. The setups I have used so far require retuning for each frame, which makes it a slow process. I was hoping with the glass to just keep everything level and slide it around while keeping the camera as is, and take the pictures from the pc.
>>
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>>3397113
When I use to dslr scan I made this. It's especially a box with a hole in the bottom to put your smart phone (for backlighting), with a slide mount on top I modified so you can feed a strip of film through it. Gave up on dslr scanning as it's so much of a hassle. Bought a Plustek and never looked back.
>>
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>>3397151
Good deal if most of it is in good condition. I'd go for it. Sell polaroid back and one 100mm on ebay or whatever.
>>
>>3397221
I borrowed some scanners from my grandpa but they either crop the frame a bit, or are not that quicker than a fast workflow.
>>
>>3397151
Acceptable but why two 100mm lenses? 5 holders is ok to start with.

Not a bad starting kit. I started with something similar in 4x5. 210 is a great focal length but 100 I can’t think of too many good lenses in that category.
>>
okay anons after i sell some old gear and other stuff i should come up with around $2k. in the market for a 6x7 camera. still too poor for the mamiya 7 looking at the gw670 but i really want a built in meter.
>>
>>3397292
I'm assuming they are two different 100mms with different f-stops. The ad doesn't say.
>>
>>3397298
Save up an extra few hundred and you could get a memeiya 7. Built in lightmeters are an absolute meme and a half, handhelds are way more accurate and you'd want accuracy since you get less shots on MF. Recently bought a Sekonic L-308s and it's single handedly my best photography related purchase.
Or you could get the GW670, Sekonic L-308s and $600 worth of film (or $600 on traveling). The Fuji GW cameras are super underrated, I own the GW690ii but it unfortunately needs to be sent out for repair. I'd go for the mark ii 670 over the mark iii for a few different reasons. The mark ii has a slightly brighter viewfinder, is slightly lighter and is way cheaper.
Another option if you really want a MF RF with a lightmeter is the GS645. Yeah it's 645 but for around $500 you can't beat it
>>
>>3397298
If you want best bang for your back, get a Fuji GSW690 and a GW690 for $1,000-$1,200, and throw on top one of the shoe mount meters for $150.

Thus you have a wide and a normal lens, both very sharp and contrasty. In other RF systems (like a mamiya 7), just a single lens would cost that much.

Plus big 6x9 negatives (that you can crop to 6x7 if you feel like it).
The GW670 I'm not sure if it's worth it. It's the same size as the 690, same exact lens, it just has a 6x7 mask at the film gate.
Another underrated system is the older GL690. Imagine a GW690 with interchangeable lenses. They even have a superwide 50mm (expensive,m but not mamiya expensive). The normal lens though was improved in the GW690 version, better formula and coatings.

What are you shooting anyway? Cause if you're doing portraits with long lenses, you shouldn't be looking at a rangefinder to begin with.
>>
>>3397221
Do you have any examples of scans you made with that? I'm curious how well it worked.
>>
Well lads, I received the LX i bought off ebay the other day and it seems like it's defective. The shutter seems to get stuck open when shooting at 1/60 and 1/30. Apparently that is a common issue with the LX which indicates an electronic problem.

wew
>>
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Appreciate the doggo

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>>3397382
nice doggo

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>>3397396
Yours very nice to

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>>3397382
I would but nothings in focus
>>3397396
This is a fine doggo
>>
>>3397304
You should really ask the seller. Ask what exact lenses they are and get pictures and post them here. I’m very familiar with 4x5 and larger format lenses so I can give you advice.

Even if they’re shit it’s still probably worth it tho
>>
>>3397379
Are you the Ricoh fag from the last thread? Bad luck with your cameras man. Is it just the shutter or is the mirror sticking up too? (as in is the mirror getting stuck on the foam). If you're interested you could try contacting this guy.
https://pentaxs.com/index.html
>>
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how the fuck do you scan APS film consistently? I have a flatbed scanner, Epson Perfection V370. I just put this one in the 35mm slot sideways but it didn't really sit flat or scan nicely, had to stitch together
I got a few already-used rolls in a bulk bag, looks like mostly vacation photos but I'd like to scan them all anyway.

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>>3397221
man if you get to this stage and yer just scanning 35mm save yourself a world of headache and just get an ES-1

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question to pentaxfags: for SMC-M lenses, is it normal for the focus ring plastic cover thing with the knurling to keep spinning freely after reaching either end, like it's loose?
>>
I was looking up the canon sureshot 130u and saw it had a caption mode which I've never heard of before but it seems like it imprints a caption on the photo like it would a date/time? are there any other cameras that do this? I'm wondering what it looks like but can't find any sample photos- maybe I'll just buy one, I could use a beater point n shoot
>>
>>3397528
I remember we had a P&S camera back in the 90s that imprinted text stuff like "Happy Birthday" and "Merry Christmas".
if I recall correctly, it did it like with the time/date, using 8-segment leds to burn it into the photo
>>
>>3397497
>how the fuck do you scan APS film consistently?
Step 1: Throw out all APS
Step 2: Shoot 120
>>
Fav TLRs?

I just picked up a Yashica D for cheap at the antique store but haven't gotten anything developed yet
>>
>>3397525
Needs more glue. Unfortunately.
>>
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>>3397483
Yeah man, i was very excited to get this camera and to have it DOA is very discouraging. I was already feeling a bit silly for spending so much on a 30-40 years old camera, now the prospect of having to send this one back and do it all over again is making it seem even more stupid.
The shutter stays open and the mirror up. The only way to get it to reset is to move the shutter speed dial to a different setting.
I already contacted a Pentax repair expert and he confirmed in an email this morning that it is almost certainly defective.
I'm gonna contact the seller today. I dont deal with ebay often, in this case where the item was advertised as fully functioning, is there any chance i can get the guy to pay for the return shipping?

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>>
>>3397570
Yashica 124 easily

Only TLR I’ll ever need or use.
>>
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>>3397376
Top is plustek bottom is dslr scan setup. Only did a quick exposure adjustments and curve adjustments in Lightroom for these. Couldn't find any colour examples from the scan rig but if I do I'll post it

>>3397509
>ES-1
Lol that would mean I'd have to buy a macro lens too, I was using one of those converters where you can attach the lens on backwards to the camera to make it macro.
ES-1 plus a Canon eos mount macro would of cost around the same price as a Plustek. Besides my room is bloody small so the scanning rig was taking up a lot of room, having to set it up everytime I wanted to scan was a pain, making sure everything was aligned up properly was agonizing and I barely used my digi gear so I sold it.
>>
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Any tips on how to meter for slide film /p/
Want to try a roll of slide very soon and I've
read it has less latitude than C-41 film.I'm shooting on a F3 and shoot mostly in A
>>
>>3397716
Unless you're shooting in fog, snow, backlighting, or a situation like sunset where foreground/sky are quite far apart in terms of exposure...shooting away in A will work just fine.

t. dude who shoots slide in fully auto most of the time

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>>3397716
Agree with >>3397740. Just shoot it like any other film. It’s not as hard as people sometimes make it out to be.
>>
>>3397740
Nice shot anon.

>>3397750

And alrighty Just popped in a roll expired ektachrome and just see what happens
>>
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>>3397716
With slide film highlights tend to be blown out easier where as the shadows retain more details, so pretty much like digital. I've found I get better exposed shots using auto.
>mfw I won't ever get my hands on anymore Sensia 400 :(

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>>3397605
Sad to hear. I guess it's the nature of buying old gear that there is a risk it might not work. Hopefully you grab another one and that it works. Good luck anon.
>>
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>>3397767
Post windmills
I am unapologetic about the border
>>
>>3397716
There's really no trick to it, if your scene has too much dynamic range you're going to lose stuff. Expect blown out skies in quite a lot of mid day conditions, expect fully black shadows in a lot of conditions.
It's often not a problem aesthetically to have some pure white and pure black in a photo.
>>
>>3397716
In addition to what others say, make sure you expose for what you want. Shadows will be extreme compared to negative film, as will highlights. So if you are shooting portraits then meter for the face, if shooting landscapes meter for either the sky if you want a black foreground, or for a sunny spot (gives a nice chiaroscuro effect I love that negative film doesn’t give), or for the grass if you want greens to be middle grey, etc. winters coming so pay attention to snow — don’t meter for it unless that’s the intent, everything else will be literally black otherwise. Meter for anything other than the snow . The snow will probably be just a huge mess of blown out white, but I like that look and plan to take advantage of it this season shooting Velvia 100
>>
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On holiday in Japan. Tried superia 800 (pic related) for the first time, not a huge fan; think I'll stick to pro films. Any other Fuji emulsions I should try out while I'm here?

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>>3397986
Doesn't do great at night. Maybe I should've exposed at 400.

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>>3397988
Have a kitty. All shot on Nikon F100 and 50mm 1.8g

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>>3397989
Just loving Ektar 100 though pic related

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>>3397991
Headed to Tokyo tomorrow, any recommendations for good film labs?

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Botched Provia
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>>3397851400 @1600

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sup fellow /fgt/s,

I recently accquired pic related for next to nothing. Unfortunately there seems to be a problem with the exposure time ring. I can turn it to 1/30th but trying to turn it further isn't possible (unless force is used and I dont want to break anything). Therefore I can't use 1/15th, 1/8th and B
. Which might not be terrible since I didn't plan on getting this one for long time exposures but it'd still be nice to have it fully working.

Anyone with an idea to fix this or had a similar problem with similar cameras?
>>
>>3397851
See >>3398068
>>
>>3398076
You're either going to have to open it up and try to figure out what's wrong with the mechanism, or you're going to have to send it to someone who knows how to do it.
>>
>>3398076
It is an extremely common problem that slower shutter speeds do not work on pre-80's mechanical cameras. Fixing it requires a clean and regreasing of the mechanism. It is unlikely to be worth the money on such a camera.
>>
>>3397986
If you shoot 120 buy some 160NS

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>>3397994

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>>3397994

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>>3397994

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>>3397994

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>>3397994

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>>3397994

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All right guys, heads up for a stupid question: I saw pic related and want to recreate the flat, blue hue (inb4 blue hour, this was shot on expired film). I think the best way to do this is to double expose a frame, first shooting blue and then the subject. However, when I tried this in my digital cam it made the second shot incredibly dark. I'm just wondering if the same would happen on film. Would I be able to just shoot a nice color on my computer and then go out and find a nice subject for the second exposure (using the underexpose by one stop rule)
>>
>>3398167
Film has an exposure curve that's time and temp dependent. Temp and time will make the film lean towards a specific kind of color. Check for the film you want to use.
If you want blue hues under normal conditions your best bet would be to use a filter I guess, or post process for blue.
>>
>>3397992
Why develop while traveling? isn't it easier to do it at home? the x-ray problem at the airport is a meme.
>>
>>3398076
Did you find it on ebay?
>>
>>3398167
Or you could use a blue (or whatever) filter.
With double exposures, of course you lose contrast. It doesn't necessarily mean the end photo will be darker, but it'll be lower contrast.
>>
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>>3397991
try ektar 100 pushed to 400, looks fuggin noice
>pic related

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>>3398194
That looks like shit m8
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>>3398196
then post something worth looking at homie
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>>3398202
no u
>>
>>3398204
here's your (You)
>>
>>3398205
My point was that your example of pushed ektar looked unconvincing, as I have ektar samples but all shot according to box speed, I can't give an example myself, so... got anything else?
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>>3398206
yeah i have some other stuff
colours look really nice but my photos aren't great, so you'll have to judge from what i've got
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>>3398208
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>>3398209

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>>3398210
fuck wrong side lmao
i'd say pushing film depends on the aesthetic you want to achieve as well so ye, do what you think
>>
>>3398181
One hour development (for C41) is still available in Japan in some places, and it isn't very expensive. So why not do it if there's a chance?

t. got most of my slide film I shot on my last time in Japan while in Japan, whereas here I have to send E6 to another city and pay more per roll.
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>>3398214
Japan sounds like film mecca.
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>>3398218
Not him but here in Asia I can get 1 hour dev easily. Though I have some worries about their cheap chemicals and whether it has an effect on quality? The 2 ektar rolls I sent them seem to look different from what I'm used to.
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>>3398218
It seriously is. Saw an old Japanese codger shooting a Pentax 67 and some TLR at one of the temples in Kyoto and many film SLRs and compacts. Film is everywhere and cheap (but only Fujifilm). Kodak and other imports are expensive AF. Old gear by and large is not cheaper but the selection and condition is superb.
>>
>>3398260
Also yeah as anon said above, film labs everywhere even in the smaller towns they do 1hr processing. Lots of print shops ; I'm guessing Japanese like to print their photos a lot more than in the West. In Aus ( I'm from Melbourne) basically no one is printing photos and film labs are concentrated in the hipster inner city areas or in the city centre.
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>>3398103
Cheers, will grab some.
One of things on my to do list was to get into a medium format body while I was here, any recommendations on a good value system to start with? I've been looking at the yashica 124g a bit and some of the Fuji fixed lens rangefinders but not sure exactly where to begin.

>>3398208
I like the clouds and sky in this one. Thanks for the samples. Haven't really started pushing c41 yet but keen to begin. The grain doesn't seem to intrusive in these examples. I really didn't like the grain in superia 800. Any experience pushing Portra 400? Always wanted to try that.
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>>3398076
That camera is literally a Minolta Hi-Matic 7sII. It'd be easier to find resources about it or a solution to your problem by searching for minolta 7sII rather than the vivitar model.
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Just scanned some Xp2, how's it lookin?

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>>3398298
I like this one because there's a subject looking directly at you.
>>
>>3398273
I'm not sure how prices are since I moved away, but I'd look into a GA645. If they're still selling for ~¥40,000 snatch one up. If you wind up not liking it you can sell it in your home country for $600usd easily and buy something else then.

Otherwise 124g is a good choice for a TLR as is the GS645S if you want an RF. Heard great things about the larger Fuji RFs but have no experience with em
>>
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BW400CN
On one hand BW is easy to develop at home.
On the other, having C41 BW was neat.
>png
screenshot of the pic because reasons
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One of the few days with pretty light in that country.

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I am not happy with the image. It feels like the quality is bad, but I do not know if it is development, scanning, film (Ilford Delta 3200) or something else.

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>>3398373
Well, what were you trying to achieve?
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>>3398373
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The film looks fine to me.

There are dust spots but that's more about handling your film more carefully after development, before scanning.
Delta when shot and devved at 3200 is pretty contrasty, so keep that in mind if you want more detail in the shadows, and expose accordingly.

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>>3398373
80-90% of the time with film these days it's the scanning, there's a lot of misinformation for people that do it themselves and labs phone it in unless you pay extra.

Delta 3200 at box speed is grainy as fuck but I find it particularly gorgeous.
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>>3398390
Well scanning is a skill after all, so it takes some time to get used to adjusting colour balance and stuff so it looks good. That's why there were/are specialized people that scan film and do that for you.

The good thing is that once you get the hang of it it's a lot better than lab scanning since now you get to do the colours/contrast/etc the way you want them and your photos come out the way you want them to look.
>>
>>3398402
Even back in the day of pre-digitalization you had dedicated people for printing. They knew exactly how to dodge and burn, fix colour, contrast, etc.
Not all hobbyist or pros were darkroom masters, it was more common to work alongside with a good darkroom specialist and just give guidelines or corrections in the contact sheet.
>>
>>3398095
>>3398099
too bad. I guess I'll just shoot faster speeds then. Not too much of a loss. thanks guys.

>>3398186
yes I did

>>3398288
already did. as well as the other cosina clones. not much luck though.
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>>3398364
>rare nice light
>shoots an god fucking awful photo
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>>3398465
Ah well.

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>>3398493
man just shoot digital
>>
>>3398379
>>3398390
nice ones

how do you guys keep graininess in check?
>>
overexposing 3 stops
>>
>>3398530
Mine was shot and devved at 1600, which I find best for TMax 3200.
Even if you shoot and dev at 3200 cause you need the shutter speed, if for a frame or two the light allows, overexpose a stop, you'll get a nicer negative.

Also developer plays a role, speed enhancing and fine grain ones are the best suited. I use XTol which is both. Undiluted for that specific roll, to further reduce grain.
There are not huge differences between developers of the *same* category though. So as long as you don't do retarded shit like Rodinal with high speed T-grain films, you'll be fine.
>>
Should I cop?
>>
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>>3398530
I don't

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>>3398530
For real though, this anon is right
>>3398563
Generally overexposure > underexposure for negative films.

alternatively, shoot bigger film

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>>3398564
Have handled one before, they look, feel, and operate brilliantly albeit with a small viewfinder. But I can't help but be anxious at possibility of it dying out of nowhere and being left with a thousand+ dollar brick. I'd sooner buy a Leica m3 but thats a different kind of camera entirely.
>>
>>3398564
Just buy a Bessa R and enjoy manual focus and cheap lenses in a very similar looking package that won’t brick on you
>>
>>3398606
this might be cool with some burning/horizon correction and a slight crop
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>>3397605
At least bring it up with him or go to ebay/paypal and say you got a defective device that was listed as functioning. You might get it all back.
>>
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>>3398606

Thanks for the advice friend, but I'm not cropping it, trusses make me hard
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Found a Lomo Lubitel 166U at Goodwill for $10. Got my first images with it back from the shop today. Really impressed.

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>>3398273
aye sorry for the late reply
I'm kind of new to film photography so the only ones I've tried are ektar 100 and fujicolor c200. ektar is the first film I've ever pushed as well
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>>3398636
2/?

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God damn I hate 8x10...
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>>3398701
Why? It's gorgeous
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>>3398707
That's exactly why...
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>>3398701
Thankfully I found a negative with uneven development which reminded me of the hassle of LF.
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>>3398564

Yes, but also depends on the price. The G lenses - 45mm especially - are some of the best. G1 bodies can be replaced for less than $200 right now if something goes wrong. Mines been shooting strong for the last few years, despite being around water, cold, sand, etc. I wouldn't say they're as fragile as people make them out to be, however they're not as "tough" as a Bessa or Leica, in that they rely on electronics more.

If the price for body and lens is around $500 or less for the body and 28mm or 45mm it's worth it. It's a fun camera to shoot with. You can treat it as a P&S with nice glass, or shoot fully manual, or somewhere in between.
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A recent CN roll of mine has these red spots. What causes them? Bad dev/chemicals? Bad dyes damaged by humidity/heat?
This is the second time I've run into this problem. Both with Ektar if it means anything.

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>>3398806
That's herpes. Sorry, anon
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>>3398810
damn next time i'll tell the seller to stop using merchandise as butt plug
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>>3398806
Is it expired?
>>
>>3398821
no, it's dated for 2019
>>
>>3398840
Yeah i've never seen this. Did you dev yourself? If not tell the lab about it
>>
I just got an enlarger recently and I can't get it to focus at any size higher than 11cm wide with 35mm, the lens is backed up all the way at this point. What could be causing this? I hope it's not just the upper limit of what it can project, that would be fucking useless
>>
>>3398899
I figured it out, the lens mount was the wrong way around.
>>
>>3398899
The lens mount might be the wrong way round.
>>
I haven't seen much posted about Ektachrome here lately. Has anyone been shooting it, and developed a roll yet?
>>
>>3398946
Anyone know the dynamic range of it?
>>
>>3398951
About five stops
>>
>>3398932
Yeah. I got scared for a second that that's just what "amateur" enlargers are like, I bought it without reading much about it
>>
>>3398946
Shit's bloody expensive $20 Australian for a roll, I could get 4 rolls of colourplus with that money
>>
>>3398946
I'll have my first roll of it back in a few days.
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>>3398159
good luck with calc, s
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>>3399199
a friend brought me in there, I'm a comms major lol, I'll pass the word.
>>
>>3398339
i know ur from van so where is this specifically? poco or something?

>>3398373
really like this one
>>
Can anyone explain to me why the Contax G2 is so special?
>>
>>3399233
cair zeiss
>>
>>3397030

>camera shop moving and putting everything 20% off

Someone talk me out of a 500cm.
>>
>>3397080
800. you'll have to shoot 800mm at 1/1000 to avoid camera shake, so you need fast film.
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>>3399207
moved. live in halifax, ns now...so it's about 5000km away from you sry

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>>3397509
nice rare photo of central asias cheese mine. cheese miners are shy and rarely caught on film.
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>>3397030
ektar>portra
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>>3399342
What a dumb thing to say.
>>
>>3399233
Can you find me a similar camera? I can't.
>>
>>3399236
Youre right, its too nice for you anyway
>>
Noob question. If I have a roll of 200 ISO in my camera, and I change the ISO setting on the camera, what effect would that have?

Also, I picked up some APS film because I had no idea what it was. I had no idea this stuff even existed. The only thing I could think of was putting a roll through my broken Royal 35-M. As far as I can tell, it took pictures and advanced the film. What are the odds they actually come out?
>>
>>3399467
Changing the iso on your camera changes how the camera exposes the film but, obviously, not the film itself. So if you turn it one stop higher than the rated ISO, it will be one stop underexposed, and vice versa. So if you want to deliberately push- or pull-process your film, you can set it to where you want it to be and adjust your developing accordingly.

Note this only applies to cameras with built-in meters. For older all-manual cameras, the iso (usually ASA or DIN in those days) does nothing other than helping you remember what iso film is in your camera.
>>
>>3399467
Can't tell if this is bait or not but what the hay.
for the ISO question see >>3399470
As so the APS question it won't work in your Royal camera and you'll need to get an APS camera. APS Film is what APS-C "Cropped" sensor digital cameras are based off of.
I'd highly to not bother with APS since the film itself is expired, APS cameras are pretty garbage since they're the same size as 35mm camera's but the negate is way smaller and no one develops APS film anymore and for those places who still do it's very expensive.
>>
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Finished another roll of FP4+ that I pushed to 800. The contrast works very well with flash.

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>>3399536

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here it bothers me a little that the right side of the frame is basically empty.

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what do you guys use for negative filing/naming systems? in the physical sense and scanning names. I shoot 35mm, 120, and 4x5, both color and bw, so I would like to organize them.

[Year][C or BW][format][roll number]

something like this, that's easily searchable and organized. wheres my accounting photographers at
>>
>>3399578
Digitally, just dump them into an external HDD, I have folders for each camera and then name them as year-month-place/theme-film-speed. So for example, as a made up example I could have a folder Ricoh R1, and under that, 2018-03-roadtrip-hp5-800.

I mark my negs with developer, dilution, time, temperature and that stuff since that’s where that info is relevant. I have all that in a binder sorted roughly by date (there’s always some overlap between rolls).

C41 so far just goes into a shoebox, I don’t shoot enough of it to care. I’ll probably get another binder for those eventually though.
>>
>>3399578
Glassine sleves on which I write the date and sometimes location. Sleves go in a box, 1 box per year. Boxes are labelled with the year.
>>
>>3399578
I started naming the sheets and then stopped a bit later on after I discovered I'm not organized enough to put film back in the correct sleeve after scanning. In the computer I name the file based upon subject, everything goes in a big folder and is ctrl+f'd for.
I'm beyond salvation.
>>
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>>3399578
Raw scans are sorted by emulsion. Edited shots are just exported to a single folder with the emulsion as the file name.
Physical negative are in folders for each year, the sheet is labeled with the emulsion, a brief 2-3 word summery of whats on the roll and the date if i can remember to write it down.
>>
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>>3397030
How do I make my ASA 100 film not look like ass?
>>
>>3399627
By not underexposing then raising exposure in post
>>
>>3399642
hm makes sense
thanks
>>
>>3399643
What film is this btw? and is it expired?
>>
>>3399644
Cheap-ass ""Imation"" 100/21 film. New. It's the only thing i can get easily, cheaply and in quantity in my shit third world country. No one knows how lucky they are with their kodak 400 film.
>>
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Hey I'm fairly new to film, what do you guys think of this? I'm tryna git gud, and I really liked this shot

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>>3399721

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>>3399723

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>>3399411

>Youre right, its too nice for you anyway

I....fuck, that hurts anon.

You are right though.
>>
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Can someone explain handheld meters to me?

I have always used a TTL meter on my cameras, and want to get a handheld one because the new camera I got my hands on is meterless.

Local place has Minolta "flash meters" and "light meters" all dirt cheap, but I don't know the difference.

Is it just a naming thing?

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>>3399646
You have some more examples?
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>>3397065
yeah, but only because I dont have a meter.
too scared to process the film XD
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>>3399721
>>3399723
>>3399725

Composition, and scans look a little blurry. Stop using lab scans.
>>
All right /p/ros. There's this girl, ediesunday on instagram, who does these shots and gets these crazy tones. She shoots all analog and claims that she only uses photoshop to adjust contrast, brightness and saturation. She is super secretive about her technique but surely someone on this board would be able to figure it out? I'm thinking it's something she does when developing. Perhaps off temperatures of chemicals?
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>>3399785
Combo of expired film, loogs like crossprocessing or chemical contamination in some. I'd bet some baking of the film too. Prolly some lomo meme film as the base.

Oh and not focusing the lens and underexposure.
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>>3399785
basically doing everything "wrong" when it comes to shooting, handling, and processing film.

If you want to emulate the look, just experiment. Wanting to get the exact recipe for something like this defeats the whole purpose
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>>3399754
I think the difference between a flash meter and a normal meter is that a flash meter has a sync socket on it.
At least that seemed to be the difference between the Spotmeter M and Spotmeter F to me.
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Has anyone here pushed Portra 400? I’ve got an evening/night shoot coming up and want to keep speeds up, planning on pushing 1 stop but has anyone had good results pushing 2?
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>>3399772
What about the composition, and where should I get it scanned then?
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So Ilford bumped their prices, and a 30m roll of HP5 is now €85 instead of €71. The latter price was good enough that I didn’t really even consider shooting anything else, after RPX400 was bumped to €65 for 30m. But with the price hike I’m again thinking if I should look at getting something else next time.

So what are my options? Should be:
>Cubic grain
>Work well in HC110
>Push to 1600 nicely
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>>3399874
Foma 400, but I wouldn't push it to more than 1600.

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>>3399874
That's like what, a fiver for a roll? Bulk loading now only saves like 15€ for every 30m, so 1/5th more shooting for the same money. Still worth it if you have nice bulk carts, but otherwise meh.

Spose the price will come down one day?
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>>3399876
I need to give it a serious experiment, I’ve mostly read & seen bad things about it, but I need to see how it’d work for me personally. I tend to go for quite harsh textures and hard contrast (hence the pushing) so the things that bother many people about it might not matter to me as much. I might get a 17m roll of either that or the 200 (which I’ve already shot a bit of) next time I order supplies. The 200 seems quite decent and flexible at least, but not sure I could comfortably push it past 800.

I already have shot a couple of rolls of the 400 but in 120 and only at box speed, so that might not tell as much. But need to develop those when I get to it and see what the negs look like.

What about the Orwo stuff and the Agfa APX400? Was it so that the Agfa is the same stock as Rollei RPX400?
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>>3399911
If I remember correctly, RPX 400 is made by Ilford (well, Harman to be exact).
I think it’s an old cubic grain recipe, so I guess similar to Ilford Pan 400 and HP5+.

The Retro line is an (original) Agfa recipe. Polyester base, small t-grain, high contrast. Created by Agfa Gevaert for industrial applications (aerophotogroahy, traffic cameras, etc.). Thus the extended red sensitivity.
Pretty cool films, dry quickly and absolutely flat, and easy to scan.
They don’t retain lots of shadow detail if you push them though, that’s their only drawback. If you go for high contrast you’ll prolly like them though.

The new Agfa films (red dot Agfa logic instead of rhombus) are just rebranded Kentmere if I remember right.
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>>3399907
A brick is 37,50eur, whereas the 30,5m roll is 42,95eur at fotoimpex (+shipping).
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>>3399915
Fomapan sure is overpriced when sold pre-rolled. I was talking more about RPX 400 and HP5+ with the new prices. Fomapan 400 being even worse a deal doesn't honestly surprise me at all. Might get me a brick of it though because the DX-coded carts will surely be useful in the future.

>>3399911
The stocks previously known as APX 100 and APX 400 are now RPX 100 and RPX 400, and made by a different company using different equipment and probably different precursors as well. The current APX 100 and 400 are some low-cost (but decent, on par with Pan 400) film from either Harman or Agfa-Gevaert's factories, with Agfa's old brands stuck on top. APX 25 didn't make it, and RPX 25 is a new or special purpose (aerial or scientific photography etc.) stock rebranded into Rollei's vision of the series.

I don't believe RPX is made by Harman; it could still be Agfa-Gevaert. As for Orwo, I have very little clue.
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>>3399933
The Foma cartridges aren't DX coded.
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>>3399914
Retro line is C-grain no?
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>>3399968
No.
They're not traditional cubic grain. They're a version of t-grain ("t-grain" is a kodak trademark, but similar technology).

But they're not like traditional grain films in graininess.
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hey /p/ anyone know what model this is?
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What monitors do you guys use? i need a good color accurate monitor for when i scan my film in and im not sure what to get. Ive been using a 2015 mac book pro for a few years but i want something bigger
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Anyone got a good source of HC-110 in Australia?
Only place I've found is from the jews at Vanbar which have it for $40 plus like $30 freight because they're retarded and don't use Auspost to ship their shit.
I'm down to 500ml of Xtol so I need more developer. I've heard good things about HC-110 so I'd like to try it out, also thinking about picking up some Rodinal for the meme. Other developer recommendations are welcome.
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>>3400038
I'm using a 9 year old Dell Ultrasharp, the line has always been quite good colour wise. Unless you have a high budget I'd pick any good non gamer oriented IPS screen. Most have about 100% sRGB coverage these days and quite a few adobeRGB too.
In case you aren't currently calibrating screens,
No amount of money will get you an accurate monitor, calibration is what brings accuracy. A bottom of the barrel calibrated screen will do better than a high end uncalibrated screen for sure.
Try and calibrate your current screen to see how far you can get, only after that consider getting a better one.
>>
>>3399813


So I did some more research. It seems that that is generally correct. A flash meter is for measuring light when using a flash, a normal meter is for other cases.

Whether or not there is any overlap depends entirely on the models in question. Some flash meters have a spot meter, the ability to list light values for both the flash and natural light separately, and other neat features. Others are useful only in a studio environment.

It seems the best two choices are either the Sekonic L-508 or the Minolta Flash Meter VI. Both are rather on the pricey side though.
>>
>>3400038
I use an Asus ProArt display. It comes color calibrated from the factory. They even ship a calibration report sheet with it. Got it calibrated with the design guys I used to work with back when I got it. They said it was almost spot on.

I was blown away the first time I turned it on and had my 2012 macbook pro hooked up to it, side by side. The colors were completely different between each screen, like, a whole world apart, and not just the temps. couldn't believe how off the MBP was. first time I understood how important color calibration was to my workflow.
>>
It's not bait, I'm literally clueless.

It won't work? The shutter opened and shut and presumably exposed the film to what the camera was pointed at. What extra step is required with APS film? But I agree with your opinion, I'm not going to bother with it in future.
>>
>>3400235 meant for >>3399491
>>
Just got a roll of Portra 400 back. Most of the photos are very cyan. Is Portra supposed to look like that? Am I doing something wrong? Pic related, Portra 400 as scanned from the lab left, same location with my phone right

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>>3400263
color negative films don't have true colors
if you want them to look like what you want you'll have to scan yourself, not leaving it to labs
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>>3400263
yes that is quintessentially Portra. What were you expecting?
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>>3400272
Well, this is the previous roll of Portra I shot and it was more or less the same conditions, golden hourish. I switched from Superia because that’s too saturated for me, and I wished something more yellow rather than magenta. Previous negative wasn’t very dense so I set iso 200 for the meter. Does Portra shift so dramatically towards cyan when overexposed by one single stop? Or should I just drop the lab scans like >>3400265 suggests? Even if I’d rather pay those extra bucks than spend two hours scanning myself each time

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>>3400273
of course the film changes characteristics when overexposed. portra 400 has a typical cyan cast in the mids and highlights. by overexposing one stop you're letting more of the scene into the midtown range.

it's really impossible to comment on scans if it's done by a third party. no clue how much of it is autoexposure / auto white balance on their end. judge the negatives, not third party scans (or scan yourself and have complete control over the digitization process)
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>>3400106
Don’t sweat it too much.
A flash meter is a normal light meter that *also* hasn’t flash metering. Most have a PC socket to trigger your flashes from the meter m (to take a reading), some don’t.

So apart from the flash metering function, a normal light meter has two modes: incident metering and reflected metering.

In incident mode, the white dome is covering the light sensor. Then you walk to where you subject is, point the meter to the camera (where you’ll be standing when taking the pic), and take a reading. This will give you a correct exposure regardless of the subjects reflectivity (Black cat in coal mine, white rabbit in snow, etc.) And you don’t have to do any thinking or use a grey card to get the right exposure.
The disadvantage is, you have to walk to where te subject is, and that’s not always possible. For instance when taking a landscape shot with far away mountains, or an architectural shot. But in studio or any controlled environment, people use incident mentoring pretty much exclusively.

In reflected mode, you slide the dome to the side and expose the light sensor. Then you point the meter towards your scene and you meter jut as you’d meter with the inbuilt light meter in any camera.
You try to point it to something resembling middle grey to get the correct exposure. You have to account for subject reflectivity though as usual, ie if you point it at something very bright and use those settings without adjustment you’ll get an underexposed shot.
Think of it like that: the light meter will try to convert everything it’s pointed at to middle gray: point it to snow, and it’ll give you an exposure that results in the snow being grey (and everything else underexposed). Point to a black building and it’ll result in an exposure turning the building grey and everything else overexposed.
Essentially all built-in light meters (phones, dSLRs) are reflected meters.


Lastly, there are lightmeters that also do spot metering.
>>
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>>3400263
Would that be more to your liking?

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>>3400289
>Lastly, there are lightmeters that also do spot metering.
Just get one of those and never look back. They are more pricey, but worth it. Learn the zone system and you're done.
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>>3399348
It is objectively true
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>>3400279
tfw falling for a meme and being stuck with 30 rolls of a film I don’t even like
Fuck me. Oh well, it’s gonna be more photoshop for the next 10 months I guess. Thanks for the info
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>>3400322
What a dumb followup.
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>>3400314
I use the zone system for all my work but it is pretty damn slow to be honest. It's nice to know for sure that your exposure is good though.
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>>3400343
>being stuck with 30 rolls of a film I don’t even like
iktf
Bought 20 rolls of 400h, but after using 3 rolls I found that it's too flat, like black points are not black but greyish. Now I have to save it for portrait occassions, when ektar gets too red for skin tones. At least their exp is way until 2020.
>>
As someone who owns a Hasselblad 500cm, is there anything I could possibly get out of a Mamiya RB67? Part of me really wants a 6x7 camera, but I don't know if there'd actually be any reason to upgrade.
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My Ricoh 500GS has this weird light meter problem. /p/ gave me the right battery for the meter (675 button cell), but the meter reads in a limited range. In the green zone the needle works totally fine, but the needle does not go into the red zone. I've pointed the camera at bright lights and used a light meter to confirm that the needle isn't moving past f/4 on the scale when it should. Is this a mechanical problem with the meter? I have a roll of expired ultramax 400 to shoot.
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>>3400451
here is the camera because i am a gear fag
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>>3399967
Well, fuck to that then.

>>3400047
Order with a fellow filmfag? Order two and sell the other for price + shipping + $15? Order two and develop 200 rolls (dil. B) like a boss?
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>>3400444

The rb67 is fuckhuge and heavy, especially compared to the 'blad. Though 6x7 is nice because you don't really have to crop when enlarging to 8x10
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>>3400444
I'm not sure how much heaver an rb is than a rz but I find the rz quite easy to hand hold and lug around. They're a lot bigger than a Hasselblad that much is for sure.
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>>3400010
PLS HALP
>>
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>>3399755
Hey, I totally misunderstood you. I apologize. I didn't take that picture. That image was scanned from a magazine, so there might be a lot of differences
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>>3400451
some old minoltas with the needle meter have this problem where the foam around the prism housing craps out and gets the needle stuck or limit it's travel.

I'm not familiar with rangefinders but it's worth a shot checking out if there isn't anything sticky in there messing with the needle.
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>>3400010
>>3400525
Kodak Ektralite 400
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>>3400566
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jt061BAbkQs
thank you very much <3
>>
Can I use a cheap neewer flash trigger on my minolta's hot shoe to trigger an external flash?
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>>3400624
Yeah.
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>>3400626
cool thanks.
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>>3398701
This scene looks so god damned big!
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>>3400444
I own both and still find uses for the RB. It’s a lovely format and definitely still has its pros.
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>>3400047
Just get Ilford HC or LC29 off digidirect/Michaels/wherever
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>>3399785
The last one on the bottom is Polaroid film, the opacifier layer failure "streaks" of blue are evidence of this.
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>>3400451
Does it exhibit the same performance with no battery at all?
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>>3400695
>Ilford HC
>$75 for 1L
>LC29
>$45 for 500ml
>Xtol
>$19 for 5L
Yeah fuck that shit I'll stick with Xtol
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>>3400762
Xtol is better anyway. Actually, it's the best. Pyrocat-HD in a very close second, very useful for semi-compensating work and fog scenes.
>>
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>>3400313
>>3400273
>>3400263
FYI this is what drumscanned, neutral portra looks like.
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>>3400823
O fuck that is comfy.

Post more of your stuff Anon.
>>
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I think I finally managed to use the 21mm properly. It's better suited for details.

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>>3400827
Thank you.

This is drumscanned Velvia 50.

I don't have that many drumscans, or scans, as they are very expensive.
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>>3400843
Fuji 160NS

I know the horizon is crooked, this is just to show what a "neutral" drumscan looks like. In order to include the full rebate, I cannot really fix the horizon.
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I'm going to show everyone why they should get their slides drumscanned if they can afford it.

The first one is scanned on a Epson V750 Pro, the second one is drumscanned on whatever drum is in the exif. (I also removed the color cast from the epson scan for fairness. I can provide the original if anyone wants to see)

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>>3400868

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>>3400868
looks like its fixable in post to look like >>3400870
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>>3400876
The highlights in the snow on the epson version are completely blown out, it's not fixable. The shadow areas are not fixable in post either, unless you want noise hell.
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I'm a total noob and have a few questions:
1. Is Kodak Gold 200 ISO total shit or ok?
2. Is 2,65€/roll a decent price?
My camera is just an old Zenit E with Helios 44 and Pentacon 2.8 135 mm.
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>>3400879
Depends on what you are using it for.
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>>3400878
You can adjust all this via software before scanning.

>>3400879
Price is ok. Personally, I prefer Colorplus over Gold and these are about the same price. Just test it.
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>>3400881
Are you seriously suggesting that a flatbed scanner can compete with a drumscanner?
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>>3400880
My plan is to mainly use it in long exposures since digital sucks there.
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>>3400882
Where did you read that? All I said is that, as there is shadow detail in the negative, you could improve the flatbed scan by adjusting the levels before scanning it.
You won't get the same resolution/detail, but both scanners scan the same negative and the drum scanner doesn't magically make shadow detail appear. My guess is that the drum scan was adjusted, whereas in the flatbed scan the levels are unchanged.
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>>3400823
It looks great, but it’s born the drumscanning, it’s the person operating the scanner.
I don’t think there exists any incompetent person aperating a drum scanner, same canr be said for minilabs and consumer scanners.

I completely agree with your point about slides though, a drum scanner can pierce through dense slides easily.
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>>3400899
It’s not a negative, it’s a Velvia sheet. Good luck recovering shadow detail at the same level as a drum scanner with a flatbed. I encourage you. You will have a revelation.
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>>3400952
Negative/positive, that's splitting hairs while missing the general point. Don't get upset, there is no doubt about the drum scan being better. You can easily try it, in the end it only improves the quality of your flatbed scans. I don't remember if Epson Scan offers this option, but in Silverfast you can easily adjust overall exposure to recover highlight detail and mids to recover some of the shadow detail.
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>>3400881
Colorplus looks like turd desu

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>>3400966
Does it?

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>>3400971
Yup

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>tripfag doesn't even know why not all shadow details of slides viewed on a light table can be scanned and that better scanner extracts more shadows
>he's arguing "just exposure slide it brah"
glad i've filtered most tripfag in this general
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>>3400975
naww

>>3400977
>hurrr durrr greentext
please filter me

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>>3400980
Read this, and look at the examples. You have absolutely no idea what you’re talking about.
http://www.drumscanning.co.uk/about/shadows/
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>>3400989
I wrote it before: The drum scan quality is better and there is no doubt about that. All I said was that by adjusting expoaure and levels before you scan the slide, you can recover parts of the highlights and shadows.
As your link states: "Most cheap (and some not so cheap) scanners cannot access the very darkest parts of a transparency […]"
In >>3400868 not all stuff in the foreground is 'the very darkest parts' and it might be possible to recover some detail.
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>>3400977
He's saying that you can get better scans WITH THE FLATBED if you adjust scanning parameters. He is not saying that the flatbed is just as good as a drum scanner.
In other words, it's advice on how to get optimal FLATBED scans: by adjusting scan settings.
Please improve your reading comprehension
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>>3401007
>implying that wasn’t done when it was scanned on the Epson
>implying implications
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>>3401014
Was it?
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>>3401014
I haven't implied, but maybe you've insinuated?
If those aren't your photos
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>>3401015
Of course it was.
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>>3401018
Ok. Well, I took the liberty to try some PS on the flatbed scan. Colors in the shadows are certainly not as good as those in the drum scan, but there is more shadow detail than it seems in the original version posted above.
Of course, doing that in post introduces a fair amount of noise, so I'm wondering if you're using the digital versions for prints. Depending on the display size, both online and print, that noise might be less prominent.

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>>3401023
You cannot print slides anymore, so yes Digital files for prints.
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>>3401031
Never checked on any kind of color paper. In that case I totally get why you need drum scans, especially when you want to print big. For online display the flatbed scans probably do ok.
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>>3401044
The last production of Ilfochrome was in 2012... printing on ra4 paper is a waste of time unless you are doing contacts. Film/digital hybrid workflow is much better imo.
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>>3401007
>Please improve your reading comprehension
You and your buttbuddy tripfag first.
The original post was about shadow extraction on SLIDES. Retard jumped in blathering about NEGATIVES. And some mumbo jumbo basics about exposure, as if it's relevant or anyone owns an epson didn't that.
Now retard's backpedalling lmao.
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>>3401065
Alright, but you should recognise that that's a different goalpost
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>>3401044
Scanning and digital printing is always better quality than optical printing, that's why it has been the standard since the 80s.
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>>3401052
Sounds like it saves a lot of hassle. How large do you print from these?

>>3401065
Nobody is backpedaling. Now that everything is sorted out and we engaged in a normal conversation on the topic, you come along and try to recook the whole thing. STFU
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>>3401088
Why is it always better than optical printing? Just ordered some paper, as I want to try wet printing.
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>>3401088
At least for b&w wet printing completely blows digital out of the water.
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>>3397833
>>3398629
I contacted the guy and he was cool about it. It wasn't his fault and I believe him when he says it was working when he sent it. I returned it to him and he refunded me in full, including shipping.
He messaged me and said the issue was something with the shutter speed control armature. Seemed like a simple fix and he had it working the same day he got it back.

I ended up buying another off ebay for slightly cheaper. This one came from KEH. I got it today and I'm pretty pleased since it is in better cosmetic condition than the first one.
Of course it isnt without it's own issues. I started testing it out and the mirror started sticking when the shutter release is pressed. ANOTHER very common issue with the LX apparently. The little rubber stops that the mirror rest on get sticky with age and the mirror sticks to them just enough for it to get hung up.
Luckily I was able to at least temporarily fix the problem by rubbing the stops with the graphite tip of a pencil. No more stick!
This camera could probably use a good CLA treatment soon, but it seems to be fully functional for now.

Time to start shooting again!

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>>3401097
Nah, total BS despite whatever your favorite analog youtube memelord might have told you. A high end scanner can always extract more detail from a piece of film than an enlarger and modern dye sub paper is higher resolution and lasts longer than any photographic paper.

Darkroom printing is fun, don't get me wrong, but don't have delusions about quality. Darkroom work including shooting film in general is a historical curiosity and it's relegated to hobbyists that are mostly more focused on process than results nowadays.
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>>3401088
I think in some cases contact printing can beat scanning. You're losing the main downside of darkroom work there, the lens.
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>>3400966
>>3400975
>colorplus looks like turd
>posts c200
Enjoy your Rodinal sized grain structure on 200 asa film desu
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>>3401100
Oh shit he's back with another LX. Listen guy, the lightseals have degraded. It's almost expected. Google lightseal replacements, i've followed the mattsclassiccameras guide. It's really easy and you can do it yourself for dirt cheap. If your mirror rest has degraded there's a good chance the lightseals on your door are gooey too so hold off on shooting a roll until you get the replaced. Otherwise you'll probably have light leaks all over your shots. Personally I bought a sheet of felt with an adhesive side (prestofelt) and have replaced all seals a mirror rests on a few cameras with it. Some people are wary of using felt as it's kind of a loose material and it may not dampen the mirror as much as foam. But i've never had issues and if a piece does lint off you can just blow it out.
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>>3399771
She'll be right, get it dev'd i think you'll be surprised
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>>3401144
Enjoy your vommit greens and poopy browns

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>>3401195
>vommit greens
>uses fujifilm
Neat blacks you got there
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I can't afford developing so I've shot around 300 rolls over the past 5 years without developing them.

Will they go bad over time?
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>>3401201
No, they’ll be fine, but what sort of cognitive impairment do you suffer from?
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>>3400843
So nice, V50scapes make me hard

>>3400868
>>3400870
I agree with the other anon, the processing on these is so different I’m finding it hard to compare them. Do you have a couple of crops to compare detail? I actually use a V550 for my landscapes and am finding it resolves detail very poorly but drum scanners are so so expensive it’s not even worth considering.
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>>3401095
Well, as someone who prints (only bw, only about 250 prints in) I wouldn’t say it’s always better, but it usually is and often it’s also so much simpler there’s no contest. The whole RA4 process is even more of a hassle, though there are tools to help combat it obviously.

You can certainly get great prints on a good enlarger and a good lens, fiber paper etc. but for color, I’m not sure you can ever reach the technical details you get with something like a drum scan. And for positives, it’s also the only possible way to do it anymore, unless you have a secret stash of Ilfochrome somewhere. And let’s not forget all the post processing like how to dry, flatten etc. a fiber print, or how shitty spotting is compared to doing it digitally.

Could it be possible that optical printing would reach the quality level of scanning? Probably. Is anyone working on researching and improving that technology anymore? Not really.

But printing is a lot more fun and creative. I don’t think a hybrid workflow will ever get there, combining the most boring and tedious parts of both processes - developing film, scanning it and then clicking around in PS or whatever you personally use.
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I'm retarded, please help. I've used a 500ml 1+20 batch to develop a single roll, do I have to multiply the development time by 1.4 for the second one?

https://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?Film=%25Fomapan+400%25&Developer=Ultrafin&mdc=Search&TempUnits=C&TimeUnits=D
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just ordered some natura 1600 p excited. now to figure out what to shoot with it
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i don't shoot often, aside from sending my trash to get developed for like $15-$30 elsewhere, are there some long lasting forms of developer chemicals that i can keep at home and utilize once in a blue moon, like a powder maybe? this is for b&w btw
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>>3401320
I think it means if you are to develop 2 films at once in 500ml 1+20, you have to multiply time by 1.4.

Discard your old developer and make fresh 1+20 for second film.
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Anyone has any examples of what happens if you push color film more than 2 stops?
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>>3401405
Rodinal and HC-110. I recommend the latter. You could also get packages of Xtol or D-76. These are powders and less convenient to mix, but might suit you better.
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>>3401364
Nice! I have two rolls sitting in a freezer because I'm too scared to use them. They cost me like $20 each.
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>>3401452
you get color shifts and it looks like poop.
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>>3401440
That's what I ended up doing, I didn't want to risk it. It does say "simultaneously or successively" on the right though.
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>>3401405
Rodinal lasts forever. Very grainy, but also good highlight separation. HC-110 lasts a good while as well. Xtol lasts indefinitely until mixed, then only 6 months in air-tight container.

However, of the 3 I prefer Xtol.
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>>3401454
>>3401487
thank
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>>3401163
You're probably right. Like I said it could definitely use a CLA.
I have this roll of HP5+ that I started shooting like three months ago. I had ten exposures on it and I rolled it back up because I didnt want to take it with me when I went to Germany. I got back from Germany and loaded it back in my Ricoh but when I went to go shoot it I found out my Ricoh had shit the bed. So I rolled it back up again.
It's been sitting here since. I'm gonna use the rest of it as a test roll in the Pentax. At this point I just need to finish it, I wont feel bad if it gets ruined.

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Hello gang, I'm looking for some advice. I have an ETRSi with an off-brand grip that has a cold shoe. I want to start using a flash with it for some indoors stuff. I don't care about automatic flashgun exposure modes, just manual. I just can't wrap my head around different cables and whether I'll be alright with the manual flash mode. Will any old flashgun with a pc sync cable do? Since most used ones don't come with a cable will I run the risk of incompatibility?
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>>3399236
usually, i tell people that gear won't make their photos better. a more cumbersome, awkward camera with no built-in meter will most likely make your photos 10x worse if you're not used to handling that exclusively, too.

idk, just buy it and sell it for the same price you dummy
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new thread?
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Do you cut paper into actual strips to make test strips for your prints? It's expensive so I thought I could do that as to not waste as much paper, is it alright to do it? Using RC paper right now
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>>3401549

There is no metered prism for the 500?
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>>3401563
Will make one now
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>>3401564
I usually end up cutting 2 or 3 pieces of paper to use as test strips per 25pcs 5x7" pack.
Cut them in roughly 2cm strips by 5". that's usually enough to cover a good part of the projected image and get the feel of the exposure times.
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>>3401651
>>3401651
>>3401651
^NEW BREAD^
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>>3401533
Anything will do, the PC socket is universal.
Sometimes you can get a PC to hotshoe adapter, to mount on top of your coldshoe. That way you could use even cheap flashes with no PC connector.
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>>3399233
Faster auto-focus and a few extra lens choices, plus additional drive functions like continuous shot +1 and +2, double exposure and self-shot and I think a bulb mode.
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>>3400828
What a beautiful photo. Reminds me of Koudelka



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