Climbing General #4A place to talk about climbing in any aspect (trad, sport, bouldering, aid, alpine, etc).Rock Climbing is a dangerous sport that can cause loss of life, limb, eyesight, or sanity.Useful Info:https://pastebin.com/dhTMzCqJwhen in doubt, RUN IT OUT>>boards.4channel.org/out/thread/1486808 old thread
knuckle is pretty much all healed. had an xray in the end as the swelling was mad. Bones were all fine. Doc reckoned I must have smashed it against something, but I don't remember doing that at all. I was climbing fast the just before it happened, so may have done it and not even noticed. Either way, should be able to get back to climbing tomorrow
any helpful hints for getting my buddy thru overthinking things while on toprope? he wants to eventually lead trad but is still psyching himself out on toprope at times. sometimes he yeets up trad pitches after we've placed gear, and then will talk himself out of it the next pitch. how do i rip the gumby in him out and let the eagle fly free
Just bought myself a pair of shoes and harness on that ridiculous alpenglow sale. Comes on Monday.I've climbed in the gym a few times and loved it. Just excited to finally have my own stuff and stop renting.
>>1516977Nice! thats like the first step to getting locked in and taking climbing to the next level. What do you have your sights set on now?
>>1516932Take him to some easy climbs that he top roped with success and have him go
>>1516793Last weekend I managed to fall up an infamously desperate 8A that I have had in my sights since I first saw a video of the first ascentionist on, years ago. I remember thinking "now that is real hard bouldering, I will never be that strong".The reality is, I just topped it out, said "fuck", and had a celebratory custard cream.Climbing is a series of anti-climactic ascents followed by exclamations of "it wasn't that hard really..."
>>1516980Hopefully get outside and learn to climb some real rock. I live in Toronto and seems like Rattlesnake Point is the place to toprope in the area.
Fuck, just went for a quick boulder at my local indoor wall, there is no natural climbing around me, and it's "temporarily" closed down! It was one of the only things keeping me sane while I live here.
Brand spankin' new trail at Kaymoor in the New River Gorge, courtesy of the NPS and dozens of hard-working NRAC volunteers. The trail goes from Rico Suave Buttress all the way to White Wall, replacing the horrendous bushwack.
How do I treat sore tendons?Do I keep the fingers straight? Should I avoid using them much in daily life? Tape the fingers even outside of climbing?
>>1517882tendon injuries are tricky to deal with, recover slowly, and are very easy to ignore and exacerbate. You will have to be more specific about what kind of soreness you are talking about, i.e. is it associated with pulley injury? Is it painful only on loading? Is it only in the fingers? etc
>>1517341>anti climactic>boulderingthere's your problem
>>1516932find another partner if you want summits. personal experience.
>>1518007It's only in the fingers. Sometimes I just get random small twinges of pain in the area of the biggest finger joint, even when I am not doing anything. But sometimes it also hurts under load when I am pushing on a surface. Even when I'm typing like I am right now. It's mostly when I am not actually climbing.My right index and ring finger in particular. I feel like just ignoring it, but I don't want to fuck up my hands
>>1518266Currenly following this: https://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_SE/esther-smith-nagging-finger-injuries/esther-smith-nagging-finger-injuries.htmland it seems to be working for me
>>1518521Thanks, looks helpful
Is it stupid for me and my buddy to want to learn how to sport climb online and get to it instead of hiring someone to show us?
I'm fairly limited with my time, but not as much with means. I am currently staying over Bath this summer. This autumn I will be able to travel quite a lot since I'm saving up everything I'm earning. In that autumn I will surely do my best to get into the sport, but I want to have something going on for me now, even if I have almost nothing to spare in terms of time. Are there any good books for learning climbing? What should I start with? I could go to a bouldering gym but the closest one seems to be in Bristol. With maybe one day per week free completely, I'm bit sceptical about my chances to go there. I'm somewhat anxious to appear inexperienced and do something quite stupid while there if I do go there, and I'm saying that as a person that is hardly ever anxious about anything.
>>1519490No, so long as you have a good amount of common sense yourselves.There's a vast amount of climbing related information online. Just cast your net and watch/read a range of tutorials/literature and you'll soon see common practices. So long as you practice and implement what you've learned accurately, cross check with your partner and get comfortable with the basic systems involved in sport climbing you should be fine. Many people learn to climb this way.
>>1519502Being a gumby for a while at a gym is somewhat a right of passage.
>tfw you'll never be a professional climber
>>1519490You don't have to hire someone, but you should befriend someone who knows how to do it. Otherwise you and your friend might end up using a wrong knot or something because neither of you knows how its supposed to look like. You can't remember everything you see in a video until you have done it yourself a few times.
>>1519692A professional climber is basically just an instagram influencer who climbs good
I got a Petzl Adjama for sale, size Large. Only worn once to try it on and subsequently realize its too big. FK.$40, we could meet up and boulder because I don't have a harness lol
>>1520423honestly other than a few insanely gifted climbers i can't say you're wrong
>>1520423>professional climber>a person who climbs goodYou don't say
The absolute state of Everest
>>1521265Is that for real? It looks worse than the cables at half dome.
>>1521265They almost deserve to die
>>152129213 already did that this season.>>1521288It is, 200 or so people
>>1521265Not that Everest isn't a shit show (or so I read/hear), but that could be from a bunch of people jammed at the last camp that are making a push for summit in a small window of favorable weather. Then again, I don't know.>tfw getting into mountaineering and enjoying it way more than rock climbing
I'm new to climbing but I've loved going to the gym so far. Any recommends on a shoe brand or what I should be looking for?
>>1521348One that fits your foot snugly. You don't really have to worry about what type of rubber the sole is or how aggressively downturned it is until you get into the hard 5.12 range and up. Scarpa Vapor V's have been a personal favorite of mine. A new version just came out, so you might find a good deal on the old version. Same with other brands.
I’m a flatlander plastic grabbing gumby but I cleared my first 5.9 tonight and I’m excited about it. Absolutely garbage technique and I only made it through by sheer strength, hand to pinch a hold between two fingers to change hands, fucked up my fingers but I did it.Complete baby mode compared to the rest of the gym but I’m still happy
>>1521569Fuck yeah manThe more you think about your feet, the less you'll need to do fucky shit with your hands. Before making a move with your upper body, try looking down at your feet and asking yourself if they're in the best possible position to help you reach the hold you wantObviously this shit's easier said than done, but those 9s will get pretty easy if you keep doing 'em
What's the best place to get a rope for a decent price? What length should I be looking for? I want to start climbing outdoors instead of at the gym, but can't seem to find anything reasonably priced.
>>1521609>can't seem to find anything reasonably pricedShare it with a friend or two
>>1521609Ropes are expensive. REI has an anniversary sale at the moment. Moosejaw has a sale on too. A 60m dry treated rope between 9.8 and 10.5 will do you well.A have a Sterling 10.2 60m and it's holding up very nicely so far.You probably won't find a rope for less than $120, not sure what you're willing to pay but it's the most vital piece of gear you'll own and the one you'll handle the most so it's a good idea not to compromise too much.
>>1521619Keep in mind the fatter the rope is, the heavier it is. I have a 9.9mm 60m rope and that bitch weighs a bit, and only feels heavier on long approaches.It may be worth it to look at smaller diameter ropes depending on what you’re doing with the rope.
>>1521713For sure, but this anon is just starting outdoor climbing so he's going to want something that can be a workhorse and take a bit of a beating. The next rope I buy will for sure be as skinny and light as my nerves and wallet can handle, because you're right, fuck long approaches with a full rack and a heavy rope.
>>1521366not on that chart, but I love butora acros, they are semi-affordable and fit my fucked up huge wide feet perfectly
>>1521603I’ll keep thinking about my feet. My dumbass didn’t think ahead in this case, and I needed to change hands on a tiny hold (way smaller than what I’m used to on the 8s) which led to the fuckery. Probably could have climbed down and back up but that seemed exhausting.
>>1522092Changing hands or feet (matching) is necessary in some cases, so it's not like a bad move that you need to downclimb to fix. But on a 5.9 it's probably not the most efficient move you could've done. It'll get more intuitive with practice
>>1518045All climbing is anticlimactic imo. In fact I find bouldering less so than sport or trad, if not by much.
>>1517341not everything needs some big climactic finish or a giant celebratory parade to mark a success, sometimes it's just the comfy feeling that you did something hard because you worked at it. as a two month noob, im feeling pretty comfy, even if my progress is slow and painful
>>1517341Signing the summit ledger (or just drawing a penis in it) and exchanging stickers/patches in the box is good enough for me
>>1523010lmao nice. i fucking love the climbing community
are any of you guys experienced with the systems board? i dont want to get into hardcore training but i also want to start doing some climbing related exercises that are more exercise based and limit pushing than just normal climbs. just dont want to go in and start climbing circles on the wall and look like a goof
Does this rope look bad to you? I'm a beginner so I'm not too good ad judging this. It's a 10.5mm semi static, I use it for top roping. Fucked up last Friday, I set up a protector at the anchor but let it rub a good deal against a ledge that I didn't notice.Pic related is the worst part, kinda towards the middle of the rope...
>>1523435Another Pic. Looks way worse in the previous one, kek
>>1523438Wouldnt climb with that that's for sure
>>1523435go for it bro, what's the worst that could happen? :)
>>1523438I would change it
Anons I don't like boulder. I enjoy rope and /out/, get quite bored at doing rope only without walking, get more bored at doing rope inside (gym), get more bored at bouldering. Im annoyed by going up and back down on a plastic wall and I feel heavy and goofy without a rope. Though, not always is possible to /out/, I don't know people climbing and I don't have a car where I'm living r/now, so the best chance would be to go bouldering in a gym. What do I do? Redpill me
>>1523435>>1523438I'd say it's fucked. I think I can see a couple white core stands peeking through in the first pic, though it may just be the light.
>>1523435It's still useful!
>>1523435>>1523438>top ropingit's fine. you're not going to significantly shock load it.
>>1523676this was hard to read. what do you want to be redpilled on...? it sounds like you're only really into a single aspect of climbing. if you want to improve, you probably have to go to a gym and suck it up. if you want to just get out more, move somewhere that has a better variety of problems. if you can't move, i guess you have more pressing matters than climbing you need to deal with. gym climbing isnt that bad, it's usually set up to be more fun as an activity than outdoor problems since a human is actively designing it rather than some random natural erosion. you trade being in nature and climbing a real rock for more fun problems, safety, and comfy A/C
>>1523702Well, I really miss /out/ and I'm just living in a big city without having a car nor friends who have one (so, no /out/). I live here for studying, so everything is great except for this. The only reason why I feel like going boulder is that I could new meet people to go out with. I just don't see where the fun is in gym and I'm kinda asking you, cause yes I am into long trekkings where to ~also~ climb. I'm not a self competitive and I feel like am not autistic enough for getting way technical on climbing, I enjoy it when it's not too much of it
>>1523728okay so you like climbing for the aesthetic, nature, and the community? i can respect that. if you're studying, see if your university has a club or group set up for climbers already. there could be people in there who want to go out and climb real rocks too, but are in a similar situation with nobody else to go with.
>>1523731Yup like.. it's a sea port city lmaoI'm a mountain gal, sad location. Will try to make myself like boulder a bit more
>>1523736as someone who prefers to boulder, it's still pretty fun. you don't have to be a total autist about technique until like v8. before that most shit can be done with lots of strength and solid technique that comes from climbing a couple times a week for a couple years. im probably going to try more roped climbing soon to see if i can get into it again, but ill probably just get winded halfway up since im only really built for short problems that require lots of effort, not long ones that i have to endure slowly
>>1523749That's an interesting observation, I probably don't enjoy a big effort as much as a relaxing long light effort. I enjoy more with orienteering, knots and dealing with nature problems than with my own body's physics
>>1523736Get a silent partner so you can be a strong independent leader who don’t need no belayer
I wish I could get into bouldering since that’s definitely the more social side of the sport, what with comps and shit, but bouldering routes are just over so fast I can’t get worked up about them
>>1523778Sounds like you really want to do trad climbing outdoors. You can try digging through mountainproject to find partners, maybe get classes from the gym if you're not experienced there.Just treat bouldering and indoor wall climbing like practice for the real thing, I guess. Even if it's not much fun on it's own it should be gratifying in a fitness/working towards your goal sort of way
>>1523778>I enjoy more with orienteering, knots and dealing with nature problemsThis is why I don't sport climb much. I boulder because all I'm interested in is the physicality of the unique positions and moves etc.
>>1523855Am in southern Europe, no mountainproject (and no Alps anymore in here). Good advice tho anon, mentally feeling it as a class for real mountains sounds motivating. Actually, there's such few mountaineers here (I'm new in the city) that the only wall is that of an autonomous social center place, so.. some weed and /out/ gotta come out
>>1523874I feel like it's really two different activities, yup
>>1523877One is /out/, the other is /fit/
>>1523887I agree. In fact I do /fit/ but I don't have much fun out of it, I feel it as a training for real life as anon suggested, either be /out/ or for my job/studies which also is /out/
Gym route on the outside corner said “all natural off” and I steadied myself by grabbing onto the corner itselfDid I cheat?
>>1517882>how to treat sore tendonsstop doing stuff that puts significant strain on said tendons for 5-7 days at an absolute minimum
>>1523935Yep, you cheated, better hand over your harness to the gym staff and never show your face there again.
>>1523978This is my harness, they can pry it from my filthy cheating hands
Beautiful day in red rocks today, lots of people out for Memorial day weekend. Anyone else get out and get some?>>REI sale plus employee discount. oh yesss.jpeg>>buy a pair of two way radios for easier communication between me and my partner on wondering and non-line-of-sight routes >>test them out on an easy two pitch trad route>>drop radio whilst in a chimney that narrows to a 4' deep 3" wide crackGoing back tomorrow with a jerry rigged spring clamp on the end of a curtain pole to get it back.Will practice rapping off gear anchors and might give top rope solo and then self rescue rope ascension a go in the process. Wish me luck!
>>1524031wandering* (I am not a smart man)
>>1524031Good luck. Next time attach it to your harness with a ribbon.
>>1524142Tie a yellow ribbon ‘round the oak tree...One more week til I’m back somewhere I can climb. Love visiting the girlfriend and excited for her to come home, but this state has nothing but yuppie college students and the sea.... and we don’t have a car to go to said sea. Someone please send something for this poor soul.>captcha said to identify mountains or hillsWhy are u toying with my emotions Hiro
Here we go.
Down I go.
Into the depths
Somewhere down there is my walkie talkie.
Retrieval complete. Now to get back out of the chimney.
Two purssics andup I go
Fuck I wanna learn how to anchor and rappel now
>>1524432thanks for these pics anon
>>1524432>>1524461That was neat.
>>1524461Thanks for sharing your adventure, anon. Also the bachmann hitch makes ascending with prusiks much easier
Minnesota reporting in. Dealing with strained tendons in both middle fingers, so rode my mountain bike all through the holiday weekend instead.I want to get up to the north shore and climb, but I have a question about belay device / masterpoint location - is anyone experienced with belaying from the top over a sea cliff (er, lake cliff)face as is done up in Tettegouche?The recommendations I see involve having your masterpoint on the ground a couple feet from the edge, belaying while sitting, running the belay line and a static line over the edge, rapping down and climbing back up. All of that makes perfect sense to me except for the belay line running over the edge of the cliff. I am accustomed to hanging on an anchor and either redirecting or using a guide/reverso, so all this makes sense except for the rope+cliff shit.Is the implication that the belay line will just never be loaded except in the case of a fall/rest in which case it would not be moving? Do people smarter than me just use a carpet square or some other protection for the rope?Halp I'm basically a flatlander.
>>1524608That's what I wanted to use but couldn't remember how to tie it! Thanks anon.
>>1524643That kinda sounds to me a like a guided scenario, such as a backed-up rappel.
>>1524643After looking at some photos it seems the carpet square is the right idea. Not sure where the static line comes in though. Probably used either as an instructor's tether for approaching the edge.
>>1523264Does your gym have a moonboard or similar? You could use it like a systems board where you find problems that are specific to some project or just use it as a power training tool.
Went to climbing gym for first time in like six months last week. I was by myself since I just got off work early at like 1pm and screwed around with auto-belays.Dear lord do I suck. Got 80% of the way up a 5.7 and once it became a little overhanging (by like 15 degrees), I was spat off. I was super pumped super quick. I tried route a few more times but couldn't get past the overhang to the top.I tried another 5.7 but it was all slopers and I was way too pumped to do anything.Trying again today. I'm getting up that fucking thing.
>>1525073>5.7>All slopersThat seems meanI’m scared shitless of the auto belays lol. Even if they’re safer (are they?) I hate that I can’t communicate with them. I know my belayer is always watching me, but I still wanna shout “watch me!” if I’m about to do something dumb. Also not a fan of always having to take a leap of faith when going down and just trusting the thing will catch me.
>>1525084Yeah, I was like "what the fuck, why you gotta do me like this" when I saw the route full of slopers.I tested the autobelay by falling at about boulder height, but still feels weird to just "let go" from the top of the wall when the rope isn't really weighted like it is with a belayer lowering.
>>1525084You'll trust them eventually. They're a great piece of equipment. Clip in, run up a bunch of warm up routes, unclip. Easy peasy.
>>1525112lol I'm still falling on warm up routes
>>1524693>>1524704Thanks anons. Plan is to send someone rapping down a static line, backed up on toprope belay, pull the static up to get it out of the way, then let them climb via top belay.I'm just a huge wimp about running ropes over edges like that, but those pictures make the edge look fine, even if the rope was suddenly loaded a carpet square would be fine. Idk what I was looking at before that made me think it was such a sharp edge.
Anyone have any climbing youtubers you'd recommend? I'd really be interested in mountaineers too.
>>1525312I’m a scrub and I think his content’s mostly for scrubs, but geekclimber has helped me improve a lot
Hey I'm new to climbing and dont know how to progress really. I'm stuck on v2 and can get half of them at my gym. Is there a good book for workouts and stuff thatll help with climbing or should I just keep climbing as the workout?
Hey climby boys, can any of you give some insight as to why Mt. Everest is such a meme?
>>1525318Are you failing because of technique or strength?
>>1525327I don't even climb, but even I can tell it's about insecure boomers wanting to be on the top of the world and feel like they are le epic explorer when they pay their way to the top and still die on the way.
>>1525327It’s the tallest
>>1525312I'm a boulderer, maybe someone else can fill in good sport and mountaineering channels although some of these channels have sport too.Mani the monkey, my fave for down to earth stuff> https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCvkGOw5JmJ3TPdXNiEFwq6QBeta routesetting, good for comp anlysis> https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0iiyed14XtRqxOcGgwSHDwMellow, hard climbing, not overy edited like most> https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5jRwTUqG15l-BcqQHbVFtANathaniel Davison, awesome exploration stuff> https://www.youtube.com/user/PRIMExMINISTER087/videosDave MacLeod, very good training tips, highly recommend> https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChcmKGMMMemwb291yVEtXHAGame of Send, random old school bouldering vids> https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCgRHk0F7xDtSwVuNTqAb7Tg/videos
>>1525328Both. I want more endurance while climbing so I can keep trying to work on a puzzle
>>1525312Most climbing youtubers are gym bros (still some good content though) and only a few put out regular /out/ climbing. FirstPersonBeta is the best of these:>https://www.youtube.com/user/RandomDiscourse/videosThis guy has some good vids, especially of a few Seneca and NRG routes:>https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCyOPpqhaVUticlhelzYpLqw/videos?view=0&flow=gridEric's Adventures. Few videos but really good imo, just a lonely guy doing what he loves, solo aid climbing:>https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5Qsql97OG-cBn2NkWaOsCw/videosMike Barter, tips from a old school trad dad. Ice/glacier tips too:>https://www.youtube.com/user/mikebarter387/featuredJacob Cook, good big wall vids:>https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCOWL-gwpS-59Wx5P1FqQTEA/videos
>>1516793Only recommended to the very manly or very stupid: try rock climbing in the mountains with nothing, not even clothes. Naked climbing is best climbing
>Free Solo like a real climber
>>1521366as an owner of a few of these different shoes, this chart is impressively accurate.
>>1522092>>1522110feet most important, especially when you get outside and your foothold choices are essentially endless unless you're sending gnar 5.13s or 5.14.t. a gumby 5.10 climber who can't take his own advice
>>1524607That's not what it's for
>>1525717It's for making an improvised ascender using a carabiner. That's exactly what it's for.
>>1525073Update.Got up that fucking 5.7. Felt like a God.I got past the sloper crux of the other 5.7, but too pumped to top out. Fiddled with a few other routes, mostly worked on technique until I was too tired to have anything resembling good technique.Hmm this is fun :D
>>1526095OI OI OItake a day to hit all the 5.5’s and 5.6’s in your gym, then the next day you climb try and crack out that 5.7 with better technique along with some other 5.7’s. You’ll see some massive gains.
>>15261115.7 is lowest grade for auto belay in gym. I don't even see anyone V0 or V1 boulder problems. It was just reset recently and I heard the employees setting routes as I climbed today. There's probably some 5.6 top roping, but will need to corral my GF into it. She doesn't enjoy climbing too much lol
I can climb every V0-1 in my gym except one V0 in the cave that I can hardly even begin. I dunno if that shit’s mislabeled or if I’m just that bad with overhangs. Never seen anyone else try the problem so I’m fucking mystified.
Any of you niggers do any mountaineering? SLCfag here. Going to be doing some peakbagging in the Wasatch this summer. Goal is to hit all the peaks above 11,000 ft.
How the fuck do I crack climb? Every time I try the wooden setup at my gym I can even get a few inches up
>>1526199Bury yourself so deep in the crack you can barely pull yourself out.
>>1526148Why not find buddies for belaying at the gym? They might even be able to help with this at the desk>>1526172Probably not mislabeled, especially if you see a lot of jugs. Overhangs are just especially punishing on people who are heavy and/or can't utilize core strength well to lift and stabilize themselves. It would definitely be worth watching other people do it. If you can go to your gym at a quiet hour you might be able to ask a staff member about it
>>1526227I’m not a big guy and it doesn’t seem particularly juggy. I’m probably missing something obviously or just have shit core strength. Maybe I will just reach out to someone about it. I’ve done other routes in the cave but I do find them more difficult relative to grade which is a pretty clear indicator that my skills are lacking
I went to acadia this weekend, and top roped outside for the first time. Here's a picture.
>>1526387Looks awesome, thanks for sharing
>>1526387That looks sick. I'm planning on doing some sea cliff climbing in the UK pretty soon. There's a route there called wonderland that's something like 96 pitches long.
Could somebody point me in the direction of some good technique resources for bouldering? I've been climbing on and off for about 6 months at my local gym, but only recently have started going regularly, and have finally realized just how much I don't know.Could somebody help me out?
>>1527522Better Bouldering - John Sherman.You can find it as a free ebook somewhere. Good stuff. Also, YouTube is honestly a fantastic resource. Further up the this thread there's a decent list of good channels.Will be climbing a 1850' route tomorrow in red rock. Only 5.9 but should still be a healthy challenge for me. Will try report progress here as I go.
>>1525318Just keep going. I got my first V4 a week ago and it's just practice practice practice. If you get a hard one, do it again. If you keep falling, try it again. If you're stumped, ask for beta. It's a slow process, but progress does happen and you will eventually see results. How often are you going?
Oh Pink's the one I love to placewhen I'm alone way up in spaceon some exposed and airy face.They sink where other gear won't go.When all you've got is manky pro,This tricam saves your butt from woe.But it's often hard to get them out;They make your second moan and shoutAnd wave his nut tool 'round aboutBut that's why you're the one on leadYour problems are a different breedAs long as someone does the deed..."Oh quit your whimpering," you rumble,"And get it out or there'll be trouble""Get to work now, on the double!"Although it sometimes takes a while,They do come out with vim and guile,(or chiseling and curses vile.)Pink will do what all the rest.Won't do when they're put to the test.Oh pink tricams are just the best!
>>1525314geekclimber is comfy honestly. the vibe on his videos is very beginner friendly imo>>1525312bouldering bobat is a favorite of mine. they're not much for tutorials or resources to learn from, but the videos are entertaining and sometimes watching someone climb can be just as helpful as having it explained to you
Dislocated my knee cap yesterday. Anyone have experience with this injury? Xrays and physical exam were fine but have to follow up with an orthopedic to check for ligament damage. Knee's pretty stiff but I still have full range of motion and I can bear weight on it, though obviously I'm on crutches right now to be safe. Hoping it's not any worse than that and I'll be back in no more than 2 months.
>>1529201Fucking fell today and sprained my lower back. Probably sciatica involved too. Felt like fire was shooting down my ass when I got up. Tried to walk it off but no go. Went to urgent care. It's not a hip fracture. Thank god. Spotting was shit. Fuck fuck fuck. I'm so pissed. This is my second fall injury. Fuck. <blogpost
>>1529032Red rock lookin HEALTHY
>>1529641“Bouldering is dumb.” - a shirt I read once.
>>1528927I've been trying to go 3 times a week. I find it's hard to keep trying again and again because my endurance isnt there yet
Hey guys! First time in this thread. Started indoor bouldering and getting tired of rentals, like every beginner I'll be the guy to ask about shoes:Any brand/model recommendations for a slim heel and wider forefoot? I'm finding this is the issue that plagues me for other activities (like snowboarding). I'll go try on everything, just wanted to ask this.
>https://www.adventure-journal.com/2019/06/climbing-mont-blanc-without-proper-permit-could-now-mean-prison/oi camarade avez-vous un permis pour cette ascension?
>>1529774I have that shirt... it's from Sterling, a rope company
>>1529984Makes sense. Mont Blanc has a big problem with unprepared idiots going up there and getting stuck/dead
>>1530084>Taking the piss at try hard Messner wannabesBased brown womanlet.
>>1530084This is like that scene in Fellowship where the party is bundled up pushing through the snow while Legolas just walks on top of it in his normal outfit
Any /fat/ climber?Went to gym for 4th time today. I just use autobelay since I climb when I get out of work early (like 2pm) and like it quiet. Last session I finally actually finished a fucking route, topping out a 5.7.Today I worked on my "project" which isn't graded but probably 5.7 to 5.8 range. I kept getting spat off a slightly overhung spot. Could NOT figure out how to make a foothold and really can't figure out how to trust my feet on steep stuff. After getting spat off I tried the other route I did last week and couldn't get past crux I was so tired after only 45 minutes of climbing.Then some guy and his 10/10 girlfriend, who are being shown how to climb for first time by gym employee, both effortlessly float up both routes with no struggle, walk away with big grins. Like, I was watching them to see how they did it and it didn't even make sense how easy it looked for them.Ugh, frustrating. Keep getting my fat ass in there I guess.
>>1529077I saw this post and had to readAbout pink tri-cams used on leadAnd know that these were words to heed.Many climbers seem to crack,When, seeking pro from off their rack,And fearing falls with too much slackAbove that last piece placed below.They wonder how far they will goAnd if, perhaps, that piece will blow.Assuage the doubts that plague your mindBy seeking pink-the tri-cam kind-A solid placement you will findWill lay your falling fears to rest.Confidence will swell your chestStill ever upwards towards your quest.That little pink clipped to your ropeWill often be your only hopeAnd means by which you just might cope.Please forgive this little dittyAnd mock it not with flaming pity...It's just that pinks are so damn pretty!
>>1530105Lose that weight anon, it will make a huge difference. Don’t get hung up on people climbing better than you, you’ve got a real handicap.Good news is climbing is a great motivator to keep your diet strict. Use myfitnesspal and track those calories.
>>1530105>his 10/10 girlfriend>10/10Doubt
>>1530130Honestly looked exactly like Allison Stokke. Total smokeshow.
>>1529032Failed in my attempt to document my climb. It was hot as balls yesterday in red rock. Was intending to link up Mysterz(5.7) and Armatron(5.9), but lack of water and crazy temps meant we bailed after topping out the first climb.Seeking cooler temps up Mt Charleston tomorrow for some spot climbing.
>>1530364>MastercamHow do you like them? I was think of getting them or TCUs to fill in the smaller side of my rack
>>1530393So far I'm really liking them. I bought the full set and doubled up on the 3,5,&7. The smaller sizes are great, the 00 gets placed way more than I imagined it would. Anything smaller than the no.6 basically doesn't walk, the springs on them are pretty powerful and the shark fin lobes really seem to grip well.
>>1529807You don't have to be throwing yourself at the wall. In fact, if you keep getting up there while winded you're probably going to make mistakes and get injured. It's fine to try a few times then take a breather, that's what I do. Bouldering is pretty anaerobic as I see it, so don't worry about taking a break, just work hard when you're actually on the wall.
>>1517395I'm in Hamilton, Rattlesnake is ok but all the rock has been polished from the amount of traffic it gets. Niagara glen is an amazing spot if you want to go bouldering outside. MEC sells a great book on southern Ontario rock climbing.
>Fucked up my ankle and knee hiking by not listening to my body like a dumbass>Can barely walk, let alone climbI FUCKING HATE THIS AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHI can feel my grades getting softer while I sit on my ass and do nothing
>>1531207Do some simple hangboarding?
I'm so glad this thread exists. Now I can shitpost on a Japanese flyfishing forum about climbing. I'm a noob boulderer. I don't even think I could do an outdoors v0 at this point. I can hit v3's in my gym but mainly I'm just drilling technique hard to get myself ready to go outdoors. There's so much good bouldering in my area, I'm pumped to get outside.
>>1530105I feel you brother. I wouldn't say I'm /fat/ but I have some extra fluff to me. If we keep hitting the gym hard and eating right we'll be shredded in no time. Appreciate the ride man, it's kinda fun. I feel myself getting leaner and stronger every time I hit the gym.
>>1531468Excited that you're excited anon!Take some pics and share when you go outdoors.
>>1531464That’s boring af tho I wanna climb
>>1531468SecondedI've been 4 times to the indooSo the next things on the list are beginners shoes and a chalk bag right?Also I have stubby fingers (and even stubbier nails) and they seem to really hurt after about an hour, does this just go away in time?
>>1531509Chalk is aidReally though, don’t bother with chalk until you think you need chalk. Tons of people out there just memeing up walls with the stuff when they honestly don’t need to.
>>1531513But I watched a shit load of that "Mellow" and they seem to chalk like a bawss.Also been watching a lot of the bouldering world cup shizz and they chalk like its blow in the 80's
>>1531515Yeah because they’re climbing batshit routes (and sometimes because they fell for the meme).I’m not saying never chalk, I’m saying don’t do it just because you think you’re supposed to.
one of my climbing partners just died on an expedition. how do i get over this?don't know where else to post this. not going to post on MP
>>1531806Real talk you should probably ask therapist, not a bunch of roleplaying weebs on a Uruguayan cairn-stacking forum
>tfw tore my labrum and the time off climbing is killing me
>>1516793Tfw getting too old and brittle to keep climbing.
>>1531830I've seen 50+ year olds crush shit
how do some kids manage to climb 5.12 outdoors in a few weeks while i've been in the 10s for years
>>1531895Kid crushers are fearless balls of pure strength-weight ratio with invincible joints and tendons, we can't compete
i'm glad this thread exists. now i have a combined outlet for climbing and autism.couple things i want to ask.1) i have something fucky going on with my right elbow. been climbing for about 8 months now, and this was happening a bit when i first started but it hasn't since then. it's nothing bad, just kind of a twinge when i twist my arm or put pressure on it. what causes this, how can i avoid exacerbating it, and am i good to go to the gym tomorrow?2) i'm finally hitting that plateau the boyz talk about, getting to the point where i'll have to start training to improve. i'm just starting to push into 5.11 territory, sent a few after some projecting and actually onsighted a couple. what are some good resources for learning how to train, and what would be a good hangboard to get for home on days i can't get to the gym?3) i'm getting real into crack climbing. currently i use my Butora Endeavors for it just because that was what the gym was selling when i first decided to get my own shoes months ago. i really like them for general purpose, and got some Acros too for more advanced routes, but the Endeavors aren't the best for crack. the rubber doesn't come up very far, so the leather upper takes most of the wear and tear from footjams. also the twisting isn't great with velcro, plus they're pretty bendy and i know a lot of crack-oriented shoes have like, wood stiffeners in the sole. any suggestions for good crack shoes?
>>1531806Lost a mate last year, not to climbing but mental health.Definitely seek professional help if it starts to impact your daily life post bereavement. Would understanding the situation and how it happened be helpful to you?Would you rather know if it was situational / gear related / accident / bad judgement?Life is pretty fickle, find your way to remember them, maybe pour one out for your homie at the beginning or end every climbing day, or even just ask to have one of their clips and have it hung on your wall.Find the good in their life and don't ever stop telling other people how much they shaped you as a person.This ones for you George, don't forget to bring a towel.
>>15319701) sounds like tendinitis (i am not a doctor). rest it, massage it, maybe take some time off the crusher stuff to work technique on easier things while your body rests and your nerves take a break.2) you don't need a hangboard after 8 months of climbing. you need to climb more, and climb varied routes. you need to do core workouts. you need to run. you need to walk. you need to hike. you need to approach climbs you want to do, scramble around. hangboarding will make 1) even worse.3) tc pros, wear socks
>>1531889 55. This is what an average climb did to my legs 3 weeks ago.
>>1531973thanks. my guy died in a massive avalanche in the himalaya a few days ago. i'm sure accident report will uncover more. another partner and i are probably doing rainier soon, we're going to try to remember him in some way.
>>1531921i hate seeing kids climbing, not because they're getting in the way, but because they send shit i cant even start.
how did you guys get into learning the ropes when it comes to ropes, belaying, etc? been bouldering for a while but want to transition into more traditional climbing and get out into nature, only im totally lost on learning about different types of knots, safety, equipment, etc.
>>1533184Find a mentor, take a guided course, or join a gym- most offer intro classes and "gym to crag" lessons.Or search around online, youtube etc. does have everything that would be covered but, I mean, lol
>>1516793get a fucking ladder.
>>15334842EZ for fun, too heavy to carry while /out/
I watched Dawn Wall recently and had no idea how brutal and how much work some people actually put into climbing. 7 working on a project is insane. And considering Caldwell is great, how fucking good is Ondra?
>>1533484but some mountains are taller than a ladder
>>1533499ondra is freak. he's a climbing savant and a polymath. speaks like four languages, has physics and business degrees, and can give 120% effort on anything he does. it's weird.
I have been climbing for 4 years and still can't reach 7a grade. I climb 3 days a week indoors and I don't have an opportunity to climb outdoors. The nearest climbing area is far away from my home. What should I do? How to improve my climbing?
Hey /cg/ i have a question for you.I am ocasionaly climbing and hiking in higher mountains for a year. I always liked to summit high mountains with a little of easy climbs, and i like it very much, but i always sticked to trails.Last week, i took my first off trail summit, and feeled so good at rocks, that i summited it two times.I tried gym climbing, and its nice, but i don't feel it that much as rocks.I don't know if i should try and get more experience at indoor climbing, or should i take some rock climbing course?
>>1521306>It is, 200 or so peopleThis season Nepal sold about 370 license to climb Everest. But I doubt there will be another attempts to ascend. Monsoon is coming.
>>1524031youre better off learning to communicate with rope tugs
What is a good way to train for mountaineering? Do you learn through books or do you go on multiple guided climbs until you learn how to do it yourself?
Ain’t nobody here at the climbing gym I work at. Anyone in Vegas that wants to climb for free right now come on down to R2c2 (if you aren’t already taking advantage of this gorgeous weather and climbing outside!)
>>1534310On the phone with r2c2 manager right now telling them their employee is giving away free entry online
>>1534362Noooo my livelihood
>>1534197Whilst I would agree 90% of the time. I'm going to be climbing with a less experienced partner on wandering multipitch routes in an area where line of sight is a rarity with lots of roofs to block shouted communication. There are plenty of pros and cons to using walkie talkies, whilst I'm going to try and get by without using them, having them will provide peace of mind for my partner.
>>1533826Boulder or sport?
>>1533826give up?honestly if you're still on v5 after FOUR YEARS you're either not trying very hard or doing something wrong. try getting on a systems board and doing endurance stuff, work on weaknesses. go into the gym one day and say: "i am only going to do shit i find difficult, and whatever type of problem i suck at i will take note of." then when you have your list of weaknesses, go work them out in training.if your grip sucks, try light hangboarding. if your footwork is bad, get on the systems board and practice traversing. if you have zero endurance, try to lose some weight or do circular climbing. just identify what you suck at and work on it, because four years should be plenty of time to improve past v5, especially when you're going three times a week.
>>15319701,2) So I had a similar problem when I started climbing seriously. For me it was due to muscle imbalances, my biceps were way stronger than my triceps and my forearms had nothing opposing them so I started doing dips and wrist extensions to build the opposing groups. I am now 10lbs away from 1 arm pull ups pain free, so maybe it will work for you. The other anon was right stay away from hangboards for a long time.
Scooted up wabi-Sabi at mt. Charleston, 5.10a - had a blast with some friends
>>1533826Might be a good time to try taking a climbing vacation, there are world class climbing destinations you can thoroughly enjoy in the 6 range. Remember to aim low on difficulty since outdoor stuff might be harder than the gym routes your used to, especially if you've never done outside before.Getting a new perspective on climbing might get you out of the funk if you're unhappy with your skill level, or inspire you to branch off into getting trad skills.Definitely don't give up, it's a rewarding sport even if you struggle with 7a. 6c isn't exactly pussy grade you know
>>1532721Avalanches and crevasses man, they're like the drunk drivers of mountaineering. Everything is fine and then boom. Have some drinks and talk it out with some fellow climbers and then get right back on it. Go read some Mark Twight. That dude lost more friends climbing than I've even made.
>>1535919Looks fun as hell man
What shoes do you anons use indoors?How do you connect with your local community that does outdoor? Should I ask around at my gym?
>>1535987Scarpa HelixGood flat casual shoe for people with slightly wider toeboxes for their sizeDefinitely ask your gym people, check meetup.com, or post on mountainproject
>>1535993Thanks for this. I didn't want to clog up this thread with annoying shoe talk, but since you mentioned it I just got these and I'm thinking of swapping them out. I chose them because I have a wider toebox and they fit well but I had a little bit of air in my mid-foot and felt a bit slippy. I know they'll get better with time and break in but taking off the lacing all the way to the toe in-between climbs was annoying. Thinking of swapping out for a comf gym shoe like a pair of Evolv Defy's but I feel like it could be a downgrade.
>>1535919nice PAS-thongIt's raining here in the east. Nothing to climb except 5.12+ and up roofs. Fun to hangdog around on but not worth a 4 hour drive in itself.Sent two V6es at the gym, first time doing two in one session. Feel like I've truly broken in to the grade now~
You piece of shit human garbage faggots come to my town every single summer and shit up our forests with disgusting tent villages and I can't even walk down the river without having to see ten hippy faggots jerking each other off in a tangled mess of dreadlocks and patulli oil after desecrating the mountainside with climbing routes so the mountain looks like a fucking zebra now you're all inconsiderate assholes and all climbers should fall to their death
>>1536058x2t. a climber
>>1521265Lol just climb the rocky part m8
>>1529077Last route I did the pink tricam was the only piece i wouldve fallen on in the whole thing. Thanks anon.
>>1531806Im sorry anon. Im shit with words so I wont try to cheer you up, but i send you a hug.
>>1535998Definitely not a downgrade if it fits you better. If your current shoe feels slippy and has dead space, breaking it in isn't going to help, it's just too big for you. Or a brand that doesn't work well for your foot.
>>1531207>Fucked up my back because nobody moved the fucking pads while outside>Agonizing burning pain for the first weekI JUST WANT TO HEAL IN TWO WEEKS' TIME AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAI JUST HIT V7 TOO
>>1536183>Falling on the damn ground when you could've been caught by a ropeI know everyone loves bouldering and sport/trad ain't exactly risk free, but damn, I don't get the appeal of groundfall potential above 10 feet
>>1536183Sucks man, heal fast and get back to crushing
>>1536186>>1536187I appreciate it, honestly. I've lost pretty much all interest in climbing outdoors. I think I'm just gonna train indoors for a while.
>>1536189Honestly a good move. Outdoor climbing is great but only if you're stoked on it. Look into sport climbing near you though, in the future. If you use a stick clip for the first bolt and go for routes described as well-protected, you can seriously minimize your chances of decking
>>1521308nepal gave out a huge amount of passes this year to raise money, and the season is almost over. There have been like no weather windows so everyone went up at once
>>1530084i saw a couple yesterday up on some ledges in flats and semi-formal outfits, like you would wear on an outing, at 80 degrees with no water or backpacks.
big brained training ideas gumbies DONT want you to know: pick a climb you want to do in the guidebook, likely 5.6-8, preferably a long one. go to the gym and climb that length in the gym, focusing on technique. just climbed 1225ft in an hour and 15 mins doing a gym version of Solar Slab. threw in a few 5.9 and 5.10's in cuz i was feelin froggy.stay dreamweavin lads
>now on my second week without climbingI feel like dying bros, what do I do while I wait and go through physical therapy?
>>1536468Slip a finger in your poopy hole an wiggle it around
>>1534241you join a club
>>1535987Butora Endeavors for warming up and crack climbing, Acros for more technical stuff pushing my grade limit.some regions have like, facebook groups and shit like that but i haven't dived into it yet. completely remaking my completely blank and dead zuccerbook page does not sound fun.
>>1536468I spent the years hurt, get over it.
how do you start learning trad? i know it's not like sport where you and your semi-gumby buds can just go to the crag and bang your head against a 5.11 for a couple days.my gym has some cracks that i'm already getting comfortable with but i have utterly no idea how to place cams and nuts and shit like that. does posting something like "looking for trad mentor near x-crag" on MP actually work?
>>1536575Read books, buy some gear, place it at ground level and tug on it. Find an easy route, sew it up and belay the second.Ad infinitum
>>1536575Some climbing organizations occasionally sponsor intro to trad courses during big events. Check with whatever you local "major" crag is, if they ever have some festival or something you might be able to get a free intro from certified guides. Or you can hire a guide, many offer 2-3 day trad courses.
>>1536567>ButoraInteresting you mentioned this brand too. After trying my Helix's more I'm finding there's a huge hotspot on my right toe knuckles and I'm going to head to my gym tonight to look at their shoes because I spotted that they have Butoras and my local outdoor shop doesn't. Even some were marked as demo. Hopefully I get lucky. Completely agree on the zuccerbook, I have a fake just to keep up with stuff but people would think I'm weird if I interacted with it.
>>1536623really the only reason both my pairs are Butora is because the gyms sells them so that's just what i got when i first started, and they had a demo at the gym recently so i got some acros. if some other company had a demo i may have ended up with some other aggressive shoes. now that i'm thinking about trad/crack i'm also seeing some people who like their Alturas more than TC Pros because of durability, so i may end up with all butora shoes purely by coincidence and i'm a little afraid that it will look weird.
I went to a climbing gym and think that I might have pushed myself too hard. It feels like I have shin splints but in my biceps/inner elbows. Has anyone ever had this?
>>1536678Dang anon no Endeavors at my local gym :( They had the Acros but it's out of my price range and I'm looking for some neutral slippers. They might have it at another gym in the city but I'm not sure if I want to go on a hunt for it. No one will judge you for sticking to a brand, lots of people are brand loyal to shoes that fit them.
>>1516793Adivce on how to find a climbing partner? I really like rock climbing but I struggle to find people. I lost contacts with people from the mountaneering course of years ago (in which I got introduced to rock climbing) and I think they secretely don't like me because I can be a strange person.I go to the indoor climbing gym (bouldering, since I'm alone) twice a week but now that it's summer I would like to go to crags every week or so.People in the indoor gym already have their climbing group and seem a bit unapproachable.
>>1536811All the fucking time, honestly. It’s normal for me, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t listen to your body. Your technique probably sucks and you’re using your arms/hands up faster than you need to, I’d guess.
>>1537038Drag outside friends in until one likes it
>>1536811i have this. an experienced climber told me it was mild tendonitis. suggested some rest, but also an exercise that is supposed to strengthen the areas around the tendon. take a broom, hold it straight out in front of you, and rotate your wrist so the broom rotates 180 degrees clockwise and counter clockwise. also, hold it down at your side and rotate your wrist so that the broom stick rotates out in front of you and back behind you. hope i explained that well enough
>>1537097Problem is gear is expensive, if a freind of mine would like to try they would have to buy harness and climbing shoes... and possibly helmet too
>>1537106take friends to the indoor gym and work them up to outdoor climbing. most people arent gonna be able to climb outdoors right off the bat, especially if they have zero experience at all in climbing
>>1537204i mean he said "if a friend of mine," so im assuming he has friends. if not, try making some and THEN take them to the gym. didnt know i needed to explain that part
>>1536839different Butora brand-loyal anon here. I have wide-foot acros and mantras.I highly recommend both, but it sounds like mantras might be what you are looking for
Any NYC based gunk's climbers frequent this thread?
>>1537084yeah I was sort of desperately trying to get on top of the wall for this climb I'd failed a few times and think that I over-exerted my arms. You're probably right about bad technique>>1537102thanks Ill try this
>>1537427>>1537102>>1537084>>1536811i'm having the same problem anon, but mine is mostly localized to my elbows, not much in the biceps or forearms. it got to the point of being debilitating today, to where i just had to go home. last week when it was acting up i was doing some antagonist exercises, where you hold your hand curled upward on the arm of a chair or something, place a light dumbbell in the hand and lower it, then remove it with the other hand and place high to repeat. 3 sets of 10, or twenty if you have a particularly light dumbbell. i was doing 20 with an 8lb weight. seemed to help but i've been lazy and haven't been doing them.>>1537038i also have some trouble finding people, also mostly because everyone seems to have an in-group for outdoor trips that seem awkward to try and butt in to. i did finally break the autism barrier and asked one group if i could come with them some time but i haven't heard back. i find plenty of people to toprope with in the gym but most of them aren't really the 'RRG trip every weekend' type. also the season is starting to end, so it's getting to the point where most groups don't want to deal with the hot rocks until fall.just keep working on it anon, we're all gonna make it to the crag.
>>1537560>also mostly because everyone seems to have an in-group for outdoor trips that seem awkward to try and butt in toYeah that's it. Maybe I'll try to break the autism barrier too and ask the old climbing group that "went ahead without me" years ago. One of them deleted me from FB lol.Also, I know it's a long shot here on 4chan, but if someone is from center Italy, I'm up for going to crags!
>>1537698you could also try MountainProject. a lot of people post basically ads for partners near x crag.
anyone remember these shoes? they were my first shoe like 4 - 5 years ago. sometimes i still git sad they got discontinued.
what happened to edging slippers?
any squamish people here?
>>1538287You mean like Moccasyms?
My climbing partner has left for greener pastures. Anyone in Vegas want to climb Red Rock, Charleston, Arizona, Idaho, California this summer? I got gear, huevos and the hookup.Long, wandering trad routes preferred5.8 trad5.10b sport
My boy snuggled up a 5.10d today, I remember this climb bucked is off a year ago when we first started climbing together.Sent a 5.10a and 5.10b myself as well
>>1540071I preferred the 10d on the left of that one. Both were a good challenge though. I'm in upstate NY ATM, just had a look on mountain project and there's a few fun little crags about 15/20 mins away! Wish I had my rope with me.
>>1540171Go free solo something, shoulda brought your rope :^)
>>1539169If you want to make a long trip out of it all I am game to come out there with you
>>1517808Oh thank god, that trail was terrible.