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Climbing General #4

A place to talk about climbing in any aspect (trad, sport, bouldering, aid, alpine, etc).

Rock Climbing is a dangerous sport that can cause loss of life, limb, eyesight, or sanity.

Useful Info:
Climbing Anchors by John Long
The Trad Climbers Bible by John Long & Peter Croft
Better Bouldering by John "Verm" Sherman
The Rock Warriors Way by Arno Ilgner
mikebarter387 on youtube

GO OUT N CLIMB
>>
>>1486808
Hey guys, do you know some books where I can learn about the basics of multipitch climbing? Like tips and tricks, rope techniques etc.
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>>1486808
Kids these day will cite John Sherman, yet
>rope
>shoes
>not chugging beer

What the hell r u doing?!
>>
>>1486888
based sherm

educate urself on who brad gobright is tho
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>>1486808
I want to make my wife's son a climbing wall in the backyard. How would you lay out the holds for kids? I want to make a basic up-route. should I make it all edging and crimps? maybe throw in a few jugs to rest on? I want to make it challenging for him and me to climb on. It will be 20' high. thinking of making a overhang to spice it up.....

Any helps?
>>
>>1487230
Start by laying out a grid of holes. You don't have to put t-nuts in all of them to begin with if you don't want to. Lay out a basic route and see how he climbs it. If it's easy, spice it up a little. Same goes for you.
>>
>>1486862
Here's a pretty good spot to start imho

https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Multi-pitch-climbing
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>>1486862
libgen.io you will find the most books on trad climbing mountaineering and so on, for freeeeeee
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>>1487230
If pic related is the kid then just put some bananas on the top of a tall object and his instincts will kick in and hell climb and get it.
>>
>>1487381
what goes on in your head and your life that you think writing this joke is a good use of time
>>
>>1487386
being this triggered, spot the special leddit snowflake. go back to your shithole where you came from and kys

also this. >>1487381
>>
>>1487386
you don't belong here, fuck off and discuss climbing on facebook or something
>>
Would pic related be beneficial for a top rope set up, particularly for someone who needs a lot of help from time to time?
>>
>>1487529
not worth the premium, especially since you'd need to of them since they don't lock. just buy a locker with the roundest barrel you can find.
>>
how hard is it to climb Mont Blanc?

I never did any serious mountaineering before, but last year I was at the cable car lookout at Chamonix (3800m high), the weather was beautiful and I kinda had the urge to climb the mountain
>>
>>1487552
its not that hard, its just the weather what makes it hard many "mountaineerer"/tourists die there because of weather changes
>>
>>1487555
yeah that's what it felt like to me too, from what I saw with binoculars the routes people were climbing were not too technical, if you have clear skies there can't be too many things that can go wrong
>>
>>1487336
>>1487379
Thanks a lot guys.
>>
>>1487552
If your passionate enough to be asking about it here and have a bit of cash you could easily do it It's not technically difficult at all but the altitude makes little harder. to my fellow /in/cel I would highly recommend against taking the Gouter route(the normal one). The grand couloir kills over 100 climber a year and injuries hundreds more. And what's worse is that no amount of training or practice can prepare you, it just total luck. There are 100s of other better routes that you can do with much more managble risk imo.
>>
>>1487991
Yeah dude, it takes a lot of passion and drive to post on 4chan.
>>
I'm trying to transition from mostly bouldering into top rope so I can eventually lead
None of the moves on these top rope routes are hard but I have trouble even getting to 50ft because I get pumped and tired. How do I work on my endurance?
>>
>>1488177
Go running
Go do a bunch of approaches
>>
>>1487230
>wifes son
>>
>>1488177
You climb more obviously so your forearms get used to prolonged stress. Not that hard.
Generall cardio fitness also helps as >>1488213
stated.

Just skip toproping and lead easy stuff. You'll get used to it and also get the endurance.
Toproping is for kids and old people.
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>>1488177
Just climb a couple grades down and do multiple routes/problems without rest
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>>1488444
?? rappelling is solo. you don't need a belay, you just need an anchor. i mean, i'll sometimes give kids a fireman's belay (pull a little bit of tension on the bottom of the rope), but really that's unnecessary for a capable adult.
>>
>>1488444
Rope
Tube-style belay device or figure 8
Kamakazi knot
>>
How long does the rubber on your shoes usually last?
I'm mostly climbing in the bouldering gym 2-3 times a week and going through one pair in roughly 4-6 month.
Is this normal?
>>
>>1488444
Get a raprack if you are worried about fucking anything up otherwise an ATC works fine.

Just do a twinline and know which end to pull when you come down. But also just dont do solo shit, its just asking for a fuck up to happen.
>>
Is doing outdoors bouldering without a crashmat a good idea?
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>>1487552
a lot harder than most think. hypooxia is very real and the last 400 vertical are seriously heavy if you are not regularly doing any form of cardio at altitude

glacier travel is also a complex subject that should absolutely not be taken lightly

>>1487555
did you ever climb it?
>>
>>1489155
i said that under the premise that hes not a fat fuck who gets sweating after taking two stairs, otherweise id recommend doing some more easier mountains like bishorn for example. easiest 4k mountain in the alps.

did Peuterey Ridge from the italy side
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>>1487386
Buhuhuuh... so hard being a leddit star :^)
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>>1488572
This happens to me, a better quality last a tad bit long.
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>>1488572
6 months is normal for me. I won't buy more than 2 pairs per year
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>>1489115
Depends where you are, how strong you are, and what style of boulder you want to climb. Why can't you just take a small pad?
>>
>>1489256
>>1489253
What about resoling them?
>>
>>1489257
Cause Im poor, I would go to a gym if I wasn't.
>>
>>1489390
craigslist->for sale->free->mattress
your welcome
>>
To the Vegas guys at R2C2, last thread was asking about a black diamond solution harness, got it, today went to R2C2 for the first time.

This gym kicks ass tbqh. Routes are fun, the taped routes aren’t hard at all to follow like you said. Feel like the routes are harder here than NCC, could easily do 5.9’s there but here I’m struggling with 5.8’s. Loving it.
>>
>>1489555
Fuck yeah!!! I was just there. I work tue-thurs so come say hey. Been climbing a bunch this weekend so far in Red Rocks and Knob Hill near Keyhole Canyon. Also there are some good limestone crags right in town.
>>
>>1486808
On multi day ascents the likes of which require a portaledge, where does one poop? Doe you haul a poop tube up with you? Hang angus over the side?
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>>1489938
If you wanna LNT you bring wagbags, on longer walls you'll go over the side....but not good form for anything crowded, like yosemite. If you're big walling some remote stuff which like likely not see another ascent for years, if at all, shit off the side. Nothing worse than a gumby train taking days on days to finish a route and not being able to haul their shit and smearing the entire route up.
>>
Is there a resource that explains everything about climbing ropes? Different types and differences, what they are used for, what rope to use for what purpose, what to look out for, etc.
I go bouldering but soon want to expand to climbing, but also got interested into tree climbing. So if there's a static rope I could use for both, that would be great.
>>
>>1490897
https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/ropes.html

You cannot climb on a static line without getting yourself killed, I'll tell you that much. Just get a 9.8 rope in 60 or 70m, whichever you can best afford, with or without dry treatment if you want it, its not terribly necessary.
>>
>>1490903
Thanks a lot!
>You cannot climb on a static line without getting yourself killed
I figured so, but for tree climbing you are only ascending on the rope and hence static is necessary.
I will have to buy both eventually, but for now I'll probably start with a static because climbing trees is more accessible to me than climbing walls.
>>
>>1490903
you really only /need/ dry treatment for alpine ropes, but they are good to have with climbing ropes if you live in a wet environment
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>>1489115
depends on the boulder. im in nyc and i climb rat rock without a pad, because its not necessary and i dont want to lug it on the subway. however, when i climb cat rock i prefer to have a pad, since the rock is taller and the landings are a little bit sketchy.
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>>1490903
you can not LEAD on a static line. they're actually superior for top roping.
>>
>>1491088
Yea, if you have an auto-belay for a belayer that keeps you tight 100% of the time. Not likely.
>>
how was everyones weekend? Climbed up some easy stuff this weekend showing lots of people how to climb outside and instilling confidence. While I was doing that, I was:

> almost hit in the head with a rock from ~90ft up
> didn't take my own advice and middle the rope out when demonstrating a rappel, so the rope slipped out of one end of the ATC and (had I been on the side of a mountain) sent me tumbling down to my doom, but I was pretty much next to the ground.
> tripped while rappelling and gave myself a wicked charlie horse when I slammed into the side of a climb.

anyone else out there having fun and being safe?
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>>1491620
"instilling confidence" You're being sarcastic, right?
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>>1491620
>rapped off the end of his rope
>fucked up his rappel

>anyone else out there having fun and being safe?
...is this a joke? Stay inside, gym gumby.
>>
>>1491638
>>1491635

“Instilling confidence” well, I kept my hand on the brake line and nothing happened besides me turning around. Sometimes things can happen and you have to be ready to deal with them... is what I told myself. Lol.

The rapping off the end was a lazy mistake where I got just careless because I was ~7ft off the ground and on the ground when the line actually fed straight through. This is why we practice and stay redundant, right? Making mistakes in a controlled environment > making mistakes on the 7th pitch of Inti Watana.
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>>1491647
Lazy mistakes and carelessness do not mix well with rock climbing. Educate yourself,watch all mikebarter387 videos, maybe twice.
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>>1491647
What the fuck are you even talking about. And you think you're somehow eligible to be teaching others when you can't even get the absolute basics right? Stay redundant? Are you just spouting what you think sounds smart? You clearly weren't in a controlled environment you fuckwad. If you need to "practice" to put knots in your ropes and pull through to the middle mark, or even better, have someone on the ground tell you your ropes are on the ground, you're beyond help.

Literally stay inside your gym.
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>>1491647
You are literally going to die if you keep approaching things like this. It’s scary. Now I see how people end up in climbing accidents.
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>>1491678
Lmao somebody is getting in a huff. I was in a controlled environment as there is no way I could have been hurt where I was. I wouldn’t demonstrate rappelling on the side of a wall, that is more idiotic than just putzing around with a buddy and saying “lol wanna see how to rappel.” Yes, you -do- and -should- practice knots, rope work and remaining safe. Obviously my dumb ass needed a refresher on the last two because eventually you get comfortable, lazy and complacent when you step out of the gym.

>>1491679
Yeah that thought really woke me up after this weekend, got real complacent thinking I was hot shit, then noticed myself making careless mistakes. Definitely opened my little eyes.
>>
>>1491620
>>1491647
>>1491699
i honestly can't tell if this is bait or if you're just a normal retarded 16 year old. so if it's bait, excellent job, and if you're just a dumbass, terrible job.
>>
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I suggest adding these 3 books to the thread header in future climbing generals.

Vertical Mind in particular is a really great read and helped me get rid of performance anxiety and accepting that falling is OK.
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>>1491797
I would take out the new alpinism, it confuses beginners and lots of the training isn't good for anyone who doesn't have a big base built up. I'm talking like 3-5 years of base to be the foundation for a training regimen. Going fast, light and high isn't even necessary for "old school" non-technical objectives that most won't even attempt. Instead of just hiking and climbing what you get is performance focused newbies who really just need to spend time in the mountains. The performance part comes later.
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>>1491812

I don't disagree, but there is still a lot of relevant info in there that a newbie can make use of. If nothing else it is a good window into seeing where you can go as a climber if you stay committed to learning and maintain a high level of fitness.
>>
any central NY climbers with a trad rack wanna hit up the Gunks this summer?
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>>1491825
I'm moving to NYC in June, will be looking for partners. I'll post in a future thread closer to the time.
>>
What do you lads do when you feel like you're plateauing or feel too depressed to climb that day?
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>>1491913
do an approach and just get /out/ innanature, look at the base of some stuff I might want to do
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>>1491913
Don't climb for a couple days, take some time off to recharge your stoke.
>>
I want to get into climbing but I don't know where to start.
>no money for climbing gym
>don't know anyone who climbs
>don't know how the fuck belaying and ropes work
>have no gear
>wouldn't have any idea what gear to buy anyways
should I just start off free soloing?
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>>1492165
Make sure you do a flip when you fall
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>>1492165
yes
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>>1492172
he won't get 10 feet off the ground lol
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>>1492165

just do penis hole. climer feel comfort when penis in hole. be hole for penis. share lessons after.
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>>1488177
Climb more
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>>1492165
>>1492304
I'll give you 100x better advice than that guy. Go to a gym and get a day pass and rental shoes. Boulder for a day and watch/talk to other people there to get a sense for technique. If you like it, save up for your own shoes and go climb some low rocks for free outside.

If you don't have ~$20 for a day pass then I guess find a local facebook group and beg for a guest pass?
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>>1492310
did you even read his post? he cant afford a gym, and you're recommending that he goes and buys $400 worth of gear? fuck off.

the only thing he needs happens to be the thing you neglected to mention: a pair of climbing shoes. get them and find something low to the ground to climb, simple as that. worry about the rest after you decide if climbing is something you want to continue pursuing
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>>1492317
never paid for an intro class and never regretted it. its waste of money especially if money is tight. just climb, meet people, learn from/with them. and definitely dont go and buy $400 gear
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>>1492310
>Harness
>Climbing shoes
>Another person with more experience

fixed your list
>>
I'm going to be managing the rock wall at my college. It means I'll be running the route setting too. I've been climbing outdoors for about 5 years, but I've only set one problem in a gym. Anyone have any literature to start with about gym climbing and setting routes? Maybe not /out/ related but uh, where else am i gonna ask this
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>>1492354
just set routes as close as you can to things you've climbed outside

also there is a book called the fundamentals of routesetting by louie anderson (not /that/ louie anderson)
>>
https://www.adventure-journal.com/2019/04/can-the-worlds-14-highest-peaks-possibly-be-climbed-in-just-7-months/
>>
>>1488572
If you want to be a scumbag, just buy your shoes at REI and return them once the soles go out.

I don't personally do this, I resole mine, costs $35, don't mind that.
>>
>>1488572

If you smear a lot you're going to wreck your shoes pretty quick. Just fork out the money for a decent pair and resole them ever so often. It'll save you money in the long run if you're buying cheaper shoes. Mountainproject has a forum dedicated to buying / selling. I've gotten steals on gear from it.
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>>1492165
Just boulder - you may fuck up an ankle or two, but it was done without crash pads for decades, just understand the risks you're taking. I've met people that can climb impressively well barefoot, so technically you don't need them but if you're going to get anything, get shoes.

>>1492310
>>1492304
what the fuck are you on man

>>1493029
godspeed, that's incredible
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>>1487991
Dude, Le Grand Couloir has killed only 102 people from 1992 to 2017
>>
I really like the idea of rock climbing. As a kid I loved climbing trees but nothing since. However, in the past months I really got into climbing, primarily inspired by Adam Ondra. Should I give it a try?

First of all I would have to practice indoors so if I am on the wrong board please tell me.

>zero serious climbing experience
>short on money for now so paying climbing gym membership and equipment would be a noticeable investment
>short on time, I don't think I could get more than 2 2h training sessions per week consistently
>I am heavy (almost 100kg) and have weak grip (bar hold only about 1 minute, bodyweight only about ~12 chin ups or ~6 pullups, 1 hand hanging not even for a second)
>already in my mid 20s
>I am already a terrible casual powerlifter so climbing would only be a side sport
>my career goal is consulting so if that happens it can fuck up everything due to constant travelling and long work hours

What do you think? Should I give it a try? I think it would be very cool if one day I could climb an actual big wall. But my worries are that I lack the physical potential, that my other life goals are incompatible with climbing and that I already have too much on my plate and would just half ass it and fail.

But if it isn't already too late for me (all the top climbers started climbing as children) what I could do is add a new workout regimen to work on my grip strength starting immediately and when I am done studying and have settled down with a job in a few months, cut down to maybe 90kg and start then instead of now.
>>
>>1496287
>I really like the idea of rock climbing
then go rock climb
>Should I give it a try
yeah, why not?
>zero serious climbing experience
you and everyone else who starts out the first day. could you deadlift 315 your first day?
>short on money for now ... noticeable investment
yes, with everything there is some investment - luckily climbing is almost free sans some shoes or chalk. You can browse some gear shops or buy a cheap pair of shoes new. Then you can go boulder or something. Some gyms offer pretty good membership prices or you can go on groupon. Or you can just go outside. Get active.
>short on time
this is your problem - make time, just as you do with lifting or whatever else it is you like to do with your time.
>I am heavy (almost 100kg) and have weak grip
I started at ~230lb and have been getting in much better shape when I started climbing than when I "powerlifted" (this is just an excuse for us hefty boiz to shovel food down our mouths and achieve maximum grizzly. Do not fall for our lies). Luckily climbing will a) shred you out, b) get you more in tune with your body, c) increase grip strength
>I am already a terrible casual powerlifter so climbing would only be a side sport
why even psyche yourself out before you start? Eventually lifting would be a side sport (if it is sport at all at that point) due to a constant thirst to ascend higher, harder mountains. You will train in a lifting gym not to get stacies, but to climb Mount Olympus and shake hands with Zeus.
>my career goal is consulting so if that happens it can fuck up everything due to constant travelling and long work hours
luckily for you climbing is a wonderful sport that thrives on travelling and long work hours. there is a climbing gym almost anywhere now, and mountain ranges that have bouldering, sport climbs, trad, whatever all across the globe. soon you'll take work trips just to go scope out some climbing spots and get paid doing it.

cont.
>>
>>1496287
from >>1496325

> What do you think?
I think you should stop giving yourself excuses to not do it and give yourself reasons to give something new a try. If you don't like it, no harm lost. If you do, great!
>I think it would be very cool one day I could climb an actual big wall. But my worries are that I lack the physical potential,
75% of the people who post in this thread are probably strong enough to climb Half Dome. You are strong enough, you just do not know how to climb yet.
>my other life goals are incompatible with climbing
so you think
But if it isn't already too late for me (all the top climbers started climbing as children) what I could do is add a new workout regimen to work on my grip strength starting immediately and when I am done studying and have settled down with a job in a few months, cut down to maybe 90kg and start then instead of now.
this plan is stupid. "all the top climbers started climbing as children" lmfao you have the audacity to think you're a prodigy at something hahahaha get a load of this guy. why wait to settle in a new job when you could start now on something new, and be that much better when the time would have come?

the best time to start is yesterday, the second best time is now. go climb fool, belay my ass up el cap.
>>
>>1496287
I completely understand the pro sentiment, it's a concern that passes through a lot of people's heads with low self esteem as a reason to avoid new things or give up before you start.
But it'll only hurt you. Yeah, chances are you won't ever go pro. But don't think about it, just focus on climbing whenever you can and improve. If you ever get good enough to be a pro, you'll be one. If not, then you'll be too focused on climbing to care.
>>
>>1496330
>>1496449
Thanks. Thinking back my comment was bitchy so I appreciate your nice responses.
>>
>>1487381
lul
>>
Does brand matter for gear or can I just get the cheapest stuff from a local store? if not, i'd like to know your opinions on different brands for harnesses and shoes for a beginner.
>>
>>1496830
Can’t go wrong with a cheapo BD harness or better yet, a petzl shama or whatever. The shama can hold more gear and looks comfier, but I own the BD harness. Considering upgrading soon but might just get an arc’teryx. Dunno yet.

Shoe-wise I have been happy with La Sportivas but for a beginner some cheap evolvs would do
>>
My lower back has been hurting. Is it because my muscles on my body are unbalanced?
>>
>>1487381
Based and redpilled
>>
>>1492354
i route set a lot
dont try to imitate nature, it never comes off right
there are lots of different approaches to building
i would recommend just putring up anlot of holds and then removing and refining rather than trying to visualize on a blank canvas whta you want
>>
Did my first climb on real rock a couple days ago, after only gym bouldering for about a year. Getting prepped for some mountaineering in the summer so practiced rappelling first then climbed top rope, up the 50ft face and holy shit, not having the colored holds meant all the feeling around and time spent up there had my arms pumped like rocks by the end. I'm lucky I know a guy who has all the gear as I slowly build up my own stuff so I have to mooch of him less and less. He said I should try lead next time we're out, so that'll be interesting.
>>
Been climbing in the gym for about a month now, went climbing outdoors for the first time today, had an absolute blast. Need to make more friends who climb outdoors more often.
>>
>>1496903
Rest it. My buddy just tweaked his back stretching after climbing hard for a couple weeks. Physical therapist said he pinched something between the disks in his back? Idk im not an expert. But the guy said he oughta rest it for a week or two at least or risk doing further damage
>>
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climbing this bad boy tomorrow (assuming conditions don't die on us)
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>>1498387
Yymv but as much as I'd recommend not taking medical advice from the internet I'd also advise to take what PTs say with a grain of salt. As a rule of thumb if you can perform some movement without pain you should do that thing as it promotes recovery to the strained tissue. Personally I had great results from bumping down the intensity a lot and climbing though an injury as compared to lying in bed for two weeks.
>>
>>1496830
If the gear is meant to keep you safe it has to be certified. If it's certified then the rest is personal preference.
>>
>>1498387
>>1498460
I didn't have the injury right away after climbing. It was either when I took half a week off from rest when I had bad DOMS from squating or when I did hangboard exercises at home. I'm not sure how handboarding can make me have lower back pain...
>>
>>1498337
>been indoor climbing for years
>still no friends
>still haven't went outdoor climbing
yap
>>
>>1498515

Mountainproject has a partner finder you know.

Or just do classes/clinics that your gym puts on and talk to people
>>
>>1496287

If you can do 12 chinups or 6 pullups you're easily fit enough to start climbing. You won't be Ondra-fit right off the bat but your biggest noob gains will come from technique anyway
>>
>>1498410
Nice! Im an idiot - what is it?
>>
Climbed my first 5.10 lads, 5.14 is right around the corner
>>
Climbed my highest grade boulder yesterday (f7a+). Still feel a bit stagnant though generally. At what grade would hangboard training make a big difference? Not sure if I’m plateauing a bit or just taking longer between grades now because it’s getting harder
>>
Going to Yosemite this summer to try my first bigwall. Gonna probably fail and get spat off but IDGAF If I fail I fail. Gonna be at the gunks today to fuck around in my aiders maybe get on twilight zone.
>>
>>1498741
Honestly I don't think that hangboarding does ever make a BIG difference in general. I mean it's a decent tool but I've yet to hear someone praising that one hangboard cycle that got them through a plateau or made them send thier project.
>>
>>1498748
what route? i'm 4 hours from yosemite, so i feel like i should climb at least 1 bigwall in my life, but i have no interest in aid climbing.
>>
>>1498460
>>1498387
>>1496903
I think I found the main problem of my lower back pain. It was from me hunching over my guitar when playing for 1-2 hours a day.
>>
>>1498748
Are you NY based? How long have you been climbing in the Gunks.
I'm moving there in June and will be looking for a partner to eventually tackle big walls in Yosemite.
>>
http://multipitchclimbing.com/

found this gem of a website today. really good info.
>>
>>1498584
Thanks.

There are good news. There is a chance in a few months I will live close to one of the best climbing gyms in the country. If that happens I will 100% start going there regularly. I also learned that my cousin who lives in an other country is actually a very good climber. Maybe this desire to climb is in my blood.
>>
>>1487230
>my wifes son
>my
>wifes
>son

man just go /out/ and never come back, you dont deserve getting cucked this hard
>>
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Rate my training board, I made the holds my self
>>
>>1498748
Which wall?
>>
>>1499131
bit short for a climbing wall
>>
>tfw finally escaping the V3-V4/5.10 plateau
im gonna make it lads
>>
>>1499732
>plateauing that early
>>
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>>1499732
Dont listen to >>1499867 you're doing great, good work, anon
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How does one train for high altitude climbing/mountaineering? I really want to get into mountaineering but due to uni I don't have much time to practice in the field.
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>>1499990
https://www.amazon.com/Training-New-Alpinism-Climber-Athlete/dp/193834023X
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>>1498884
>>1498748

I'm in central NY looking for REAL climbing partners, not a fuckin belay buddy. yall serious?
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brehs I need some advice.

I have a bad habit of smearing down to tiny holds in the gym, specifically with my right toe which causes my shoes to wear super fast. I blew my first pair of La Sportiva Finales down to the rand. Got a pair of new model Solutions and noticed the yellow rubber is starting to show just in between the toe cap and the sole, so I just shipped them off for resoling.

The question is, I'm currently shoe-less unless I wanna climb on my beat ass finales. Should I buy another aggressive shoe from the gym to hold me over for three weeks? Buy a good wall shoe like the TC Pros? I was also looking at the new Testarossas but because they're pre-order, I'd likely get them at the same time as my Solutions back but that would give me two aggressive shoes in my kit.
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>>1500511
get a cheap shoe for the gym - it really does not matter. an old beat pair of mythos works great.

save the good shoes for when the real work is happening, the gymbeaters for when you're trying to get j/o'd for doing that v5
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>>1500514

that's kinda of why I'm leaning on resoling my finales for the purpose as well. BUT, in CNY here we don't have any super hardcore crags. The small crag we do have has some good climbs but it's all TR and trad. Nothing like crazy overhanging sport routes or anything. So, I hate to admit, pushing that 5.12 or V8 in the gym IS my real work. For now.

I plan on moving somewhere with better sport climbing, but I'm finally making 70k+ at 26 and can't really give up my job to chase good rocks until I'm free of more debt.
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>>1500517
Looks like you answered your own questions lad
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>>1488572
you probably have shit footwork, place your feet with more care and the rubber will last longer. Gym holds will wear them pretty hard anyway though so it's worth getting a shit pair just for the gym where you rarely encounter a bad foothold anyway
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>>1500510
I wanna bag RNWF within the next 4 years serious. But ideally whoever I do it with is guna be up for a couple trips out there and to other big walls before hand to get everything dialed in and make sure we're ready.
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>>1501208
You could do it in a year and a half if you take training seriously and start on trad /tomorrow/
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>>1501223
If it comes sooner that'd be sweet, but I'm only leading 5.7 trad atm, still a ways to go.
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>>1499131
Diy/10
How did you make the holds?
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Anyone in Boulder, CO? I'm gonna be moving there in August and i'm looking for a climbing buddy
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>>1501226
You really shouldn’t be aiding much of that route. It used to be Aid heavy, but now it’s mostly a free climb. Much like moonlight buttress.
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>>1501395
Same anon, not that I’m saying don’t, I think it’s good you are aware of your boundaries.sund a lot of it will be feeling comfortable on exposed 5.10+ terrain for a while.
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I'm still struggling to climb above the middle difficulty at climbing gyms.
What can I do to improve my bouldering? What exercises? Would rope climbing really improve my bouldering?
I go to the gym to boulder every 2 days.
After each session I do:
1 set 5 reps of hangboard hangs (30mm)
2 sets of maxrep pullups
2 sets of maxrep leg raises
2 sets of maxtime planks

On my off days I'm only doing 4 sets 5 reps of hangboard hangs (30 mm).
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>>1501450
How about giving yourself a break for a few days and letting your muscles fully recover.

Also, footwork.
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>>1501461
I want to fit in hang board exercises, but I really don't want to mess up my boulder sessions or be too tired to do them after bouldering which is why I do them on my off days. And between each bouldering session I have 1 rest day.
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>>1501465
What grade are you comfortable sending with fluid, controlled and quiet movement?
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>>1501450
You certainly don’t need hangboard training to climb middle of the road grades at climbing gyms. You need better footwork, stronger core and learning how to climb better / nuances, how to use heel/toe hooks correctly (actually pulling on them to position hips etc), body position stuff. You should be able to get to near higher end of gym grades doing this alone with basic strength training.
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>>1501450
>>1501465
You do not need to be hangboarding until you are comfortably sending v6/5.11 in the gym. Basically doing laps while arcing on 5.9. For now, don’t even look at the hang board and dial back on the wack ass training. Just go climb, and put things together. Right now you are not getting anything from hangboard training except tired and confused.
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>>1501477
anon here >>1501450
One gym says I climb normally with V2-3 while the other says V4-5
And the one that I'm struggling to climb is V4-5 while the other gym says V5-6
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>>1501487
Listen to this guy >>1501483

Don't worry about getting bogged down this early in the game. Get really comfortable climbing at grades you consider below your peak. Be like water.
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>>1501483
>Basically doing laps while arcing on 5.9
What do you mean?

I find the exercises and training helped me. I'm already able to do hangboard hangs of 4 sets 5 reps of 10 seconds, 30mm. And the leg raises really helped me with my core strength for getting my feet back on the wall if they came off.

>>1501489
It's just disappointing that I've been stuck on this grade for a while now. Feels like I lack core/tension strength, finger strength, and pinching strength to move up.
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>>1501495
Arcing is when you climb up and down on a wall but never leave it. This builds endurance and familiarity with holds, as well as footwork.

You should be arcing right now, not hangboarding. It WILL damage your tendons, pulleys, fingers etc. if you are not at the proper level to benefit from its use. What grade are you even climbing at anyways?
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>>1501518
I climbed on and off for 3 years where i took 1/2-3/4 year breaks between.

>What grade are you even climbing at anyways?
>>1501487
The problems that I can actually do are either (Gym 1) v2-3 or v4-5 (Gym 2).
The ones that I can rarely do and have a lot of trouble is (Gym 1) v4-5 or v5-6 (Gym 2). I'm only able to do these if they're dynos.

Can you even arc for bouldering? I assume you need to rope climb for that.
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>>1501535
Yes, you can arc whilst bouldering. It's a great way to practice good footwork as you'll be leading with your feet on the way down.
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>>1501465
Bro if you're not resting it's not a day off. You'd be waaaay better off doing ANY climbing than this hangboard thing you're attempting. I mean if you're that pumped about hangboarding that's perfect just remember to rest enough and warm up beforehand. But if you actually want to get better, stronger and be able to more difficult stuff than that crimp ladder in the gym over there - you need to be climbing more, your climbing needs to be more structured, you need to put more effort into your climbing. Hope you see where I'm going with this.
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>>1501596
>you need to be climbing more
I stay in the gym for 3 hours
>your climbing needs to be more structured
How should I structure it?
>you need to put more effort into your climbing
That's why I thought adding exercises and hangboard training would help my climbing. I'm not sure what you mean by putting more effort besides adding training like what I'm doing.

>>1501571
I'm thinking of trying this out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s-wz--W-1kE
Though, I'm not sure about part 3-5.
Most the gyms I been to don't really have a good wall for staying on a wall for 20 min and where I wouldn't get in people's way.
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>>1501535
>>1501723
>I climbed on and off for 3 years where I took 1/2-3/4 year breaks between

so lets break it down: 3*.5=1.5, 1.5*.75=1.125 - by this math you have been climbing for ~1 year. Still not at hangboard level.

Gym 1 and gym 2 obviously have very different setters and standards. You should not base anything off of this. Do not think that the gym grades mean anything as well - or even outside. Every route in the world is set by someone, given a grade (relative to what /they/ thought it was) and people subsequently climb over it. With outside grades, they eventually get knocked down and equalized to "true" grades and with gym grades... well, they go away in a month so who gives a shit? If you are only able to do 4-6's as dynos then you are not climbing 4-6's. If you are still putzing around at v3's comfortably you need to begin running, lifting weights, eating properly, and doing core workouts on top of climbing. Climb 3x-4x a week (if you have the opportunity to go outside, do that > gym climbing). Train accessories all other days to improve your climbing. Take one good rest day where you crack a beer, roll a fattie and check out some butts near the pool.

>I stay in the gym climbing for 3 hours
but what are you doing in those 3 hours? Save yourself the time, crank out some real training for an hour and a half, and go home to rest your tendons and take care of all the other things life requires ya fuckin NEET

and you're not getting in peoples way if you're there first and actually climbing. They can wait their turn or find another problem. It's a gym, not El Capitan.
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>>1501821
>>1501571
>>1501596
Thanks everyone

>>1501821
I stopped weight lifting in favour of climbing because I would go climbing after each workout and notice how bad I was so I focused on developing my finger strength. If I would weight lift, would you recommend 3x a week on the same days as the 3x/4x a week of climbing? And what about running? Do them on off-days or on the same days of climbing as well? I do have some body fat on my stomach where I am 5'8 and 150 Lbs.
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>>1501839
I didn't explain that in the best way. What is best right now is calisthenics, mostly. Ringwork, pull ups, dips, etc. For weights, the big 4 more than suffices. Deadlifts are fucking KILLER for climbing. I would lift on days you don't climb, and feel free to scale climbing back a little bit.

Don't climb and lift on the same day. Did that really seem like a good idea to you? Lol. Run just about every morning - C25K is a good program. In the end, the best way to get better is to climb. I think you are focusing more on climbing as just a way to "get in shape" or get buff as fuck. It really is not a sport for that -- if that if your goal, just stick to lifting. Climbing encompasses so much more and you are doing yourself a huge disservice on only focusing on the strength aspect of it.

:clapping_emoji: you are overthinking this shit fool :clapping_emoji:
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>>1501848
Well sure I like rock climbing for making me fit, but I'm more interested in progressing in climbing than getting buff or in shape. I just thought getting in shape would help my climbing.
Are calisthenics like a typical freeweight 5x5? Or is it more of a 2 sets of max reps thing?
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>>1501854
Getting in shape will be a side effect of proper training. Yes, calisthenics can be structured like a freeweight 5x5, but I would probably bump it up to 3x10's or some rep scheme close to that. Don't max out. No reason to.

Practice dead hangs, pull ups, dips, chins, and hanging from rings in the up position. These will target your triceps, biceps, back and core. For legs, stick to skwatzzz n diddies. Lastly, you do not need to be in shape to improve your cimbing (at this level). Go on mountain project and look at pictures. There are some doughboys getting up 5.9 R trad routes, and you can too.

thebestwaytopracticeclimbingistohangoutinyourlocalgymandgatherbetawhileclimbingdifferentroutesandhavingfun
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R8 my cop lads
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>>1501885
fug yeah lad and way to dox t*** k***********
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>>1501723
3 hours is a fairly long and likely not that intensive session when all considered. Think dropping some volume from the other days to add one more. As for structure I'm not wiriting you a plan you won't follow it's more about keeping the track of your progress and going to the gym with specific purpose other than just climbing. You should be able to figure out the rest on your own there's no magic plan to improve just consistency and trying really hard. And at last hangboarding is not climbing it's hangboarding. Be a bit more introspective about what you're doing. Can your technique be improved? Is the sequence optimal? Are you really trying hard? Answering these sort of questions and being true to yourself is the key.
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Daily reminder I'm going to climb 9a and nobody can stop me
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>>1502130
You tell em lad
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>get a bad climbing-unrelated wrist sprain
>after 2 weeks of no climbing I cant wait anymore and just climb with it (hurts to push but not pull)
>goes well for a couple of weeks, doesn't really seem like it's getting better but also not getting worse
>go bouldering outdoors, ground is kinda wet
>slip on moss, dont want to fuck up my wrist so try to catch myself with other hand
>I now have 2 sprained wrists and no idea when they're going to heal
The withdrawal is real.
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>>1501341
Polyester resin and fine sand, had to wash the sand multiple times because I bought construction grade, still cheaper than decoration sand.

I haven't tried coloring them yet,
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>>1501341
Made silicon molds from that green gardening sponge thingy
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Can anyone recommend some sources that I can learn more about climbing history, culture, famous routes, etc?
I've been climbing for a few months and want to get more immersed and learn more
>>
2673485365 text this number for a hiking buddy
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>>1501450
Same anon from earlier. Ordered 3 books for cheap and got:
Training for Climbing: The Definitive Guide to Improving Your Climbing Performance
Self-Coached Climber: The Guide to Movement, Training, Performance
The Rock Climber's Training Manual

Self-Coached Climber: The Guide to Movement, Training, Performance just came in today. Feels pretty good, even has a DVD :^)

What does /out/ think about these books?
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>>1502204
Maybe you need more circulation to the areas?
https://youtu.be/c2cZFewBRpI
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>>1502760
You are stealing from small company owners you fiend.
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>>1502873
Here's some pics from the book.
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How does it feel knowing that a literal 14 year old girl is better than everyone in this thread will ever be?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4zBVD0sL7Y
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>>1503652
>in her youth
>heals faster from injury and has young tendons
>is being raised and trained by elite climbers
Of course she's better.
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>>1503655
cope
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>>1502747
>>1502760
cool, but you know you can buy used holds from the gym for less than a buck a piece?
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>>1503657
To put it in perspective, it would feel worse if an overweight 40 year old man picked up climbing and started doing v6s in half a year.
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Should I do ARC training before or after an intense bouldering session? I find before makes me too tired to boulder.
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Anyone got any shoe reccs? I've been climbing like 5ish months and my shoes got a hole in them. I'm mostly a gym climber but in a few months I'm going to be transferring to mostly trad and sport outdoor climbing. My budget's about $180, though I could possibly go up to $200.
Also, I've got giant feet. 15 US (49.5 EU). My current shoes which got the tear are scarpa origins in 49, but I was thinking of maybe downsizing a bit to a 48 since it seems that comes highly recommended. The Mythos and Finale's from Sportiva seem nice.
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>>1502873
>>1502985
I'm really surprised. Reading this book actually really helped with my climbing. It made me more aware of my balance on my wall where I was really just throwing myself and muscling myself on the wall to each hold. It's still really hard to pay attention to technique when bouldering though.
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>>1504013
I have no idea what I'm talking about but common sense wise I would just go with cheap shoes if you can. More expensive shoes really make no difference if they're durable imo. Just look at the shoe you're buying and check for possible weak spots in the shoe that will break easily. Like badly placed connections of the shoe where the shoe takes a lot of stress or if it's crap glue.
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>>1504017
>More expensive shoes really make no difference if they're durable imo.
I mean, just because a shoe is expensive that doesn't mean it necessarily is more durable than a cheap shoe.
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>>1503714
Arc training should be your session or a large part of it
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>>1504114
Damn, but bouldering is the fun part and arc tires me out for it.
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>>1503664
I'm from a third world shithole with 0 gyms that sell used stuff
>>1502953
So i'm basically an entrepeneur,

Besides is still cheaper to make them
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So a couple years ago I had a pretty bad head trauma incident unrelated to climbing. I haven't really done any sports for a few years since even small bumps to my head cause my head pain to come back. I've gotten into climbing recently and I really love it, but do you think it is too much risk? I've just been gym climbing and doing top rope which is fun and pretty safe, but bouldering seems like you could actually get hurt pretty bad with some of the more advanced positions. Do you think I should stay away from climbing and just stop now before I mess up my head? Maybe this post simply sounds like some sort of soiiboy rant, but I got over chronic neurological pain a year ago and I don't want it back at all; I still want to have fun though at the same time and not just live in a box all day long.
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>>1504711
If you care enough about looking like a basedboy you should just get off this website as its affecting you too much
and climb anyways pussy
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>>1504748
I'm just asking for advice that's pretty reasonable to the situation I'm in. I don't use /pol/ to know what you are implying by basedboy anyways. Your anger makes it seem like you are dealing with a personal problem, I hope it gets better anon
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>>1504711
>>1504779
Wear a helmet, take it slow, don't fall. Inevitably, however, you will fuck up on at least one of these -- in that case, weigh your risks beforehand and just YEET IT BOIII. If you feel that you may get hurt or simply bust yo'self up, do not do the climb or find another route.
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>>1504568
They're pretty cool, do they hold out well?
I wish I could make my own wall, but I've got no space for it.
I too am from a third world shit hole, holds here are waaaay more than one buck a piece.
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>>1505005
I'm almost 220 lbs and I have holded from one hand, they are solid, but I've only tried them on fully vertical plane, haven't been able to try one from a roof
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>>1503652
>There's better climbers than me
And what dumbass it's energizing and I climb harder than people around me which is enough fun already
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>>1504711
I hit the back of my head today at an indoor gym. Was in an awkward spot and slowly standing up close to the wall.
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>>1503652
shes not 14
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>>1501927
>RNWF
lmao
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>>1502005
3 hours does not seem that long. I often spend 3 hours at the gym with about 30 minutes of that spent stretching at first. i even feel i would do well to add an hour by taking longer rests between attempts and really get the most out of each one. but sometimes im just too eager to give it another go
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>>1504711
top rope is by far the safest type of climbing. start with that and if you decide to stick with it you can move on to bouldering or lead
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If you were about to turn 27, had been climbing for 1-2 years, and wanted to set a goal for yourself to achieve before reaching 30, what would it be? Thinking of something in Yosemite, ideally. All suggestions welcome.
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>>1506394
I should add that I'm looking for a trad-climbing goal. My bouldering goal is Midnight Lightning
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>>1506394
You could safely do an entry level bigwall with a competent partner and never forget it.

Wash. Column
Leaning Tower.

Or Zion
Touchstone wall
Moonlight Buttress (be prepared to get in everyone’s way)
>>
so sport/trad climbers generally look down on boulderers?
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>>1506493
Not seriously, no. Just like indoor vs. outdoor, trad vs. sport, single vs. multi-pitch, day vs. expedition. It's all climbing, just different experiences.
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>>1499051
says the man getting baited out here lol
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>>1506394
Regular North West Face of Half Dome.
That's my sub 5 year goal as a 30 y/o.
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>>1498822
As a newbie a have experienced the benefits of boards: better grip, more endurance and stability in general

I do a little warm up like jumping jacks and push-ups,
12 sec of static hanging for 4 sets 1 minute rest in between
Then pull-ups on the board
On different arm positions an holds
Then streching

But I doubt this would have the same effect on more experienced climbers
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I think I just got lateral epicondylitis yesterday. I have this really weak feeling in my elbow and an ache on the top part of the elbow. I'm thinking of taking 2 days off and maybe going to a sports clinic first to diagnose it. Thoughts & advice?
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>>1507727
Pretty common for climbers.

Ice the area 20min x however many times you can be bothered. Therabands can be good for working out issues and helping prevent them reoccurring, but you have to use them every day. Make sure your workouts also include pushing to counteract all the pulling you do whilst climbing, i.e. Push-ups, lots of them.

Go easy on your arm for a while, get a professionals opinion.
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>>1507731
>>1507727 anon here
I was doing arc training for 15 min as a warmup where I was also down climbing. Then was practicing my technique for 10 min and afterwards I did the hardest boulder problems I could do and got the injury after doing my 2nd/3rd boulder problem that was overhang.

What you mean go easy on my arms for a while? Like stop climbing for a week or something? Also, do climbers wear compression bandages or braces while climbing when they get this shit? Does it help?
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>>1507732
Yeah, stop climbing for a while, depending on how much further injury will occur by stressing your already stressed arm. It's far better to let things properly heal, even though it can be annoying that you tap out for a while.

Sounds like you just pushed it a bit too far with your climbing.
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>tfw at my gym 5.9's are incredibly easy with huge holds but 5.10-'s have barely anything to hang on to
I've started to peak but considering I've only been climbing 4 times and I've gotten half way up a 5.10- I'm feeling alright about myself. I gotta find a belay partner though. Wish I had a climbing friend :((
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>>1507840
How did you climb without a belay partner?
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>>1507927
I climb with a family member of mine who introduced me into climbing, but he moving soon. Guess I should've specified
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>mfw getting into climbing
>acquaintance dies by being split in half by rock fall the size of a washing machine
is it even worth it when I live in a limestone country where every good climb is bolted and trad is suicidal?
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>>1507960
How did the rock fall happen?
>>
https://youtu.be/kesbcmDkgKc

Check me out, Bishop CA, Jedi Mind Tricks

May the 4th be with you. Always.
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>>1508028
nice job anon! I liked the editing a lot. Pic is from some 5.6 trad route in Coco Crag, barely any beta so we just climbed til we figured we were done. Knew it was one pitch though, split it up into 2 because belaying from cool stances is just too fun and practice is invaluable (read: we did not know where to go)
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>>1508033
Dope pic!
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>>1498822
thats a pretty stupid thing to say. you must not be talking to anyone thats strong then lol.
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>>1508028
Nice channel anon. I've started recording recently too, I don't really edit the videos though, just me and some friends on some local routes.

Here's a couple projects I managed to get recently: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGIofOS1jfA&t=1s
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>>1507840

Yeah don’t sweat about what you’re doing after only 4 visits. Find belay partners so that you can go 2-3 times a week and you’ll get those 10s down soon
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Anyone have any recommendations on moderate alpine routes in the sierras? I've got a short list I want to tick off, but I just moved down here from Alaska to live in my car and climb and don't know too much about the area
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>>1507768
Not feeling any pain after testing some exercises on my arm. I'm thinking it was a muscle injury. Going to go climb today and see how it feels.
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Any recommendations for a good stopwatch that has a beeping alarm and where you can see the display even while hangboarding?
I hate using my phone as a stopwatch since people could steal it or it could break.
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>>1509181
Who the fuck is gonna steal your phone while you’re hangboarding?? Where do you live?
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>>1509197
I also use it for doing ARC training on regular walls and also bouldering.
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>>1509181
I guess I could just get a bigger chalk bag to fit my huge phone in and actually wear my chalk bag. Has anyone tried those armbands for a huge phone? Are they too restrictive from being on your biceps?
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(New climber here)
Do you guys down climb after finishing a boulder or jump down? (when climbing in a gym) I've seen some people say you can build up some skills down climbing and it helps preserve your joints. I sorta like doing it but ,will I look stupid for down climbing? I never see anyone actually doing it in the gym
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>>1509285
Down climb all you want buddy. Totally normal, good practice, and you shouldn't give a fuck about what other people think anyway.

If I'm pumped as fuck usually jump, if not I'll at least get my feet within a couple feet of the floor before coming off the wall.
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>>1509286
Thanks for the advice!
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>>1509213
if somebody tries to steal your phone, chase them down and stomp them so hard, use the body you're building

RARGH
>>
How many days do you guys train? I do 3 days a week for 2-3 hours by i'm thinking of boosting that time but I don't want to risk overtraining
What do you guys think? Same volume but 4 days, increase time climbing? Do arc training on rest days?
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>>1508589
pic related is pretty much the bible of sierra climbing. if you want a little more detail croft's the good, the great and the awesome or supertopo's high sierra climbing are both good. mountain project has about a brazillion options, too.

if you want to overnight in the backcountry you'll need a wilderness permit. most of the east side (inyo n.f., humboldt-toiyabe n.f.) has a great online reservation system where you can see all the availability. west side (sierra n.f., yosemite, seki) are still stuck in the bronze age of email requests (they only just recently improved from snail mail or fax). each place has a list of trailhead availability on their respective websites.

also, we got a fuckload more snow this year than normal. 170+%. so if you want cushy dry california approaches it'll be late this year. if you're okay slogging through the white stuff get after it before it gets crowded.
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>>1509312
Yeah, but even so people could accidentally step on your phone, etc. So many times in the gyms that I'm climbing in I see fucking phones all over the floor and bench, and I have to move them out of the way and actually try to not stop on any of the damn things.
I think I'll get a cheap plastic watch and try to find myself a nice chalk back with a big enough pocket to fit my phone in.
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>>1509381
I recently bought a mammut multipitch chalk bag. Has room for a phone, fits a pixel 3 fairly snugly (for reference).
Super useful if you actually do long multipitch climbs, but may be annoying if used exclusively as a gym chalk bag as it doesn't sit flat very well.
Could you just use a bit of climbing tape and strap a watch to the wall?
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>>1509285

Downclimbing is totally fine, don't worry about looking stupid, nobody cares. Just avoid cutting people off and crowding people on the wall. Don't be afraid to ask if you're not sure if someone's about to do a route
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>>1509285
I hear downclimbing engages the antagonist muscles of the muscles that you use for climbing, and I think it helps with keeping balanced muscles in your body and something about being good for tendons? No idea, don't remember.
People usually jump down because down climbing takes too much energy and they save their energy.
>>
>read something a while back saying beginners should stay away from hard two finger pockets
>think that’s lame lol
>just fucked up my ring finger on my 4th attempt on a two finger pocket problem
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>>1509683
What happened? Did you completely tear a finger tendon pulley?
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>>1509683
Most experienced climbers avoid small pockets if they can. On the rare occasion that the pocket is ergonomically shaped it can be quite nice otherwise you’re just asking for an injury.
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>>1509700
I don’t think it was a complete tear, the pain isn’t too bad but it definitely a “don’t climb for a while you retard” feeling. I can still move it, grasping stuff is what hurts. Also finger is visibly fine if that matters.
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>>1509902
Forgot to add that it’s in the a2 area
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>>1509902
Best to use ice and compression bandages, le RICE method. Also read up guides on recovering this tendon. You can do stuff like taping two fingers together known as buddy taping.
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>>1508218

Impressive. Are you the Asian or the AIDS guy?
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>>1510283
I’m the AIDS guy. Any general tips for pushing past f7a(v6/7) bouldering? Feels like my limit at the moment. Maybe it’s time to get on hangboards etc.
>>
Anyone ever done any solo rock climbing?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hXWeFRooSZk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BzJZSLhjPm0
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>>1510291
Maybe get a book on training, that is if your technique isn't already perfected. Though I'm nowhere near v6.
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>>1510436
i solo top rope, but not solo lead.
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>>1487552
A friend, who is not a hardcore mountaineer but above beginner level (20 km hikes etc) did it and said it was "the hardest thing I've done". Also saw a man fall to his death going down.

So it's doable but not simply "let's walk up this hill".
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>>1510493
How can you finish a climb/hike when you witness someone dying?
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>>1510561
keep climbing/hiking. they're dead, why waste your time?
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>>1510661
I mean I would probably just start going back down.
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>>1510663
and leave their legacy tarnished by TWO failures? you have to send it not for yourself anymore, but for the fallen at the bottom.
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>>1510663
comment literally said they were going down, retard
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>>1511051
>Also saw a man fall to his death going down.
that could also easily be interpreted to say that the man who fell was going down, retard.
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>>1511152
if you're a retard then yes, it could be interpreted that way
retard
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>>1511216
>can't construct a grammatically unambiguous sentence
>accuse anyone else of being a retard
fuck off, retard.
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>>1511152
This is the stupidest thing I've read all year.
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>>1510436
I solo cave/canyoneer and ascend.
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>>1510436
I free solo all the time, nothing harder than 5.6-7 though. It is very zen and a good way to move through easy terrain quickly on big/alpine routes
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>>1486808
I'm going to do my very first climbing session later today. I think we'll do bouldering(not sure, we). Pretty excited :)
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>>1511711
ignore the ', we'
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>>1510561
he could also have seen him fall on his way down.
>>
Anyone here used any books for training? Like The Rock Climber's Training Manual? Or Training for Climbing?
>>
Any other recommended places to discuss rock climbing? Preferably not reddit? Any good forums?
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>>1512007
I have Dave MacLeod’s ‘9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes’. Not strictly a training book in the sense of just routines but I found it useful in my training.
>>
Aight, so I've never tried ice climbing, but these competitions make it look as if it's regular sport climbing on easy mode.

hook a hold
jab your foot anywhere
repeat til finished

Am I missing something?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jp7FFlo8MNY
>>
Is the mountainproject.com partner system only working for US people? I don't think you can even find Canadian rock climbing partners on there.
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>>1512057
Brrrrr cold and also usually you’re going up a mountain. Also sometimes it rock and ice, and also sometimes thevsun
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>>1512057
Brrrrr cold and also usually you’re going up a mountain. Also sometimes it rock and ice, and also sometimes thevsun
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>>1512080
It’s not safe to have a stroke while climbing fren
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>>1512057
natural ice is not as consistent quality as high density foam, and it doesn't have prehung draws.

related, drytooling is aid climbing and for faggots.
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>>1512057
the ice
you're missing the ice, faggot
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>>1512070

Where are you?

ontarioclimbing.com is a big Canadian board.

I'm moving to Toronto in June and plan on using that and joining Canadian Alpine Club to help find partners.
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>>1512290
Ottawa area
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I went bouldering for the first time today (have done top rope climbing a handful of times before) and I sort of tore up my skin a bit (both toes and fingers have placed where the top player of skin started to come off). Is that due to bad form, or do I need to just do more of it so I build up callouses and tougher skin in general?
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>>1512877
Where did the skin tear on your fingers? The bottom of fingers on the palm? The first joint from the palm?
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>>1512973
It was mainly on the pinkie on the first joint. There was some other tearing where the fingers attach to the palm, but it was really minor
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What's the best belay device for big wall trad climbing?
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>>1487552
I was there last September. Beautiful trip. Had a seasoned guide though, so I didn't "really" do it properly. Better to be safe imo. Wasn't hard at all though. We pretty much walked up in record pace according to my guide and I managed to finish just fine.

Also been up Kilimanjaro and Elbrus, going to Aconcagua this year hopefully
>>
>>1512051
Best book out there, if you have to buy one, just get this one. It gets better every time you read it again with more depth and experience. A long term investment.

>>1512007
Make sure you know what you want to do with training before throwing yourself at some program. You need goals and training need to get you closer to them.
Macleod's books are invaluable, both 9outof10 and make or break.
Starting to structure your training around long term progress and injury avoidance is the way to go IMO.
Getting strong is easy, just try super hard at max hangs/campus/board climbing. But it won't get you anywhere if you don't know what you're doing and get injured in the way.

Now to answer your question about specifically "training", i've heard good things about Steve Bechtel Logical progression (periodized training) Eric Horst's books are well sourced and up to date, always a good choice.
I enjoyed performance rock climbing even though some stuff is a bit outdated. It's overall a good book and the general principles still hold true, quite ahead of its time in the 90s.
If you're looking for something simple and easy to approach "train hard but smart" can be a good choice. I'm not a massive fan of all the exercises presented but it's a good and simple summary about how to get strong basically.
Current training hype is Lattice, their app is great and sorts workout both on and off the wall by energy systems. Makes it pretty easy to integrate some into your sessions.

Now I'm no professional coach and just some random guy here so do some research and figure what works for you, good luck anon.
>>
Is it autistic to try and make friends with random people while bouldering? I just go alone and it gets kinda lonely when I am resting my arms and just starting at the ground, trying to not seem weird by being alone. There were a few guys around me and one girl that was alone and my age as well, but I didn't really want to engage with them since I don't know the etiquette really.
>>
>>1513521
not autistic at all lad. In fact, you /should/ be talking to people! Getting beta, new partners, finding new routes, etc. Climbing is a very social sport, because you absolutely need one other person for most of it (you can get away with a lot of it alone as well, but the people at that level aren't asking questions like this ... or are they?)
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>>1487386
kek you ape loving faggot. kys you sensitive cunt.
>>
>>1513521
it's autistic not to make friends fren
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Fuck. been hitting the slabs a lot this week, first v5s. But all pretty hard on my fingers. Woke up today and one knuckle is super sore and a bit swollen.
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>>1513521
It depends, if you're not actually socially autistic like me you can strike up conversations like asking for beta or asking if someone wants beta if they're struggling on a problem.
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>>1513733
>Woke up today and one knuckle is super sore and a bit swollen.
Time for ICE and compression bandages.
>>
went bouldering outdoors for the first time and got my ass kicked. very fun though until I took a fall and felt my ankle pop. probably will stick to indoors for a while till I recover.
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>>1513924
Were people repositioning the mat below you?
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>>1513216
grigril; take a guide ATC with you for the rappel
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>>1513928
nah, the ground had a steep incline so my right foot hit first and immediately rolled out. In retrospect I should have tried some controlled falls first and from now on I'm gonna be much more aware of that
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I finally got a harness and an ATC, but I have no one to climb with in Ottawa Canada. I only have the auto-belays to use.
How can I find people to take rope climbing lessons with? I took lessons a long time ago with a grigri, but I was suggested to retake it with an ATC with someone else to learn how to properly belay. I want to get into sport climbing and outdoor climbing. I tried ontarioclimbing.com but there's nothing in Ottawa that I can see. Also, I'm having no luck on facebook after just making an account.
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>>1514112
I would want to go just up to people and ask them if I could climb with them but I need lessons first...
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>>1514112
>>1514114
Are there any gyms or climbing gear shops near you? Even some outdoors stores have meetups/partner finders. Hang in there bud, eventually somebody will bite. What you can do now is study how to use the ATC, YouTube has a fuck ton of great videos. Another good site is multipitchclimbing.com

best of luck and hope to see you around on some weird 5.13 offwidth chimney suck fest one of these days
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What are some bare essentials I'll need for outdoors climbing other than a rope and helmet? Already have the basics like a belay device, shoes, harness, and chalk
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>>1514465
draws. you can get sport or alpine. i think alpines are more bang for your buck because you can use them for more than just clipping into bolts, but do whatever it is you're planning on. sport draws do have their uses such as less kerfuffle when you're chuffing out on 5.15 in some nameless scandinavian cave.
>>
Just got flappers on both my hands at the top of my palms in the exact same spot. Should I super glue the flapper down?
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>>1514872
Cut and tape, stop climbing for a bit and take care of your hands. Sandpaper and climb-on (or just lotion) works best
>>
you guys ever have forearm/wrist injuries? my forearm feels kind of "clicky" and i can't push with that hand. hope its not some kind of tendon injury
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>>1514970
Why cut it? It serves as protection.
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>>1514972
You should probably see a sports injury clinic. Do you do warmup exercises and stretches?
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>>1514976
Protection from what?

Cut the flapper off so the skin can regrow properly and the flap won’t get caught yet again and tear even more. Cover the flapper and take care of your hands. Move on with life.
>>
What is the difference between an ATC and a reverso?
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>>1512012
Mountain project is decent if you’re in the states
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>>1515180
If it’s an ATC guide vs. Reverso... they’re basically all the same.
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Anyone recc a good helmet?
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Sniff 'em.
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The Munter required to safely lower your mama.
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>>1514872

No, super glue just gets in the way of your skin healing. It's medically handy in a pinch sometimes, but if you want it to heal asap, cut the skin off and let it do it's thing. You can bandage or use ointment if you want
>>
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>Starting to get decent sends on 10s in the gym
>Ass still gets kicked by V1 boulder routes half the time
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>>1516016
How long have you been climbing? Can you do pull ups?
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Is it possible to climb K2 from the east face during the winter months?
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hey fellas, i really enjoy climbing and have just started but am worried that it might conflict one of my other hobbies- wanking, is there a difference wanking with a hand full of callouses
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>>1516217
>>>/r9k/
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>>1516052

Almost two months now I think. Can do a few pull-ups but pretty skinnyfat.
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>>1516264
>>1516016
Im assuming you mean 5.10s and not v10s
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>>1516016
5.10 covers a fairly broad range of difficulty and coupled with beginner's lack of experience it's pretty difficult thing to benchmark your performance on that. There are high 5.11s classics all around the world that are essentially linked V1s with a decent rests in between so don't worry about it.
>>
>>1516016
You need to be strong. I would suggest doing /fit/ for at least a month for the initial gains to get your base fitness up. Not being overly fat. And learning technique in climbing.
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>tfw 5 months in and i'm still plateued at gym v3s
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>>1515292
Mammut wall rider. No other helmet on the market comes close in terms of comfort.
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>>1516267
no shit sherlock
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>>1516290
try something else like outdoor climbing (if possible), sport climbing, autobelays, even just a session or two at another gym might help you see some different stuff and put that into pushing harder grades. you could even take a session or 2 and crank out all the v0's, all the v1's, and all the v2's which will let you get some endurance going and work on technique on the easier climbing. sometimes you just gotta come down from the plateau and go to another mountain ;)
>>
Doing some Via Ferrata in the Alps in the summer. Has anyone done the Dauberman in Leukerbad, Switzerland? Gonna be the biggest one I've ever done. Any tips on timings and what to expect?
>>
new thread >>1516793



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