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Climbing General #3

A place to talk about climbing in any aspect (trad, sport, bouldering, aid, alpine, etc).

Rock Climbing is a dangerous sport that can cause loss of life, limb, eyesight, or sanity.

What was your first lead? Mine was Physical Graffiti, 5.6 2 pitch in Calico Basin, Red Rock.
>>
>>1442673
Wow your first lead was Physical Graffiti? Impressed
>>
>>1442677
I had followed up it one time before, and had followed my friends up some silly routes before hand (that I had no business on, but they did). PG is a great route and a wonderful route for beginning leaders. I brought my friend on it today for his first ever multipitch (and trad route -- he just followed, though)
>>
Best way to build up a trad rack?

Piece by piece over time, waiting for deals?

Buying used from ebay etc.?
Would you trust 2nd hand gear?

BD cams seem as if they're the most popular, but are other companies cams like trango any good?
>>
>>1442894
Buying used climbing equipment is very dangerous. This stuff does protect your life, after all. You never know if there are cracks, flaws, or some crap in the moving components.
I have found the best way to build a trad rack is wait for a big sale (Christmas or other holidays) and then buy a large amount of new equipment at once. Be patient. You want at least 30% off if not 50%. Yes it's expensive and it sucks, but this equipment should last you at least 20 years. Resist the urge to "upgrade" your old cams and nuts when new stuff comes out later on.
BD cams are in fact the best, but you don't necessarily need the best. Metolius has very good cams (second best IMO), while Trango cams and HP link cams are also nice. Don't buy Wild Country. I hate their gear.
Nuts are a very nice supplement to cams, but don't think that you can just substitute lots of nuts for a good rack of cams. Nothing is as reassuring and secure as placing a nice big cam in the bomber place. You can't get buy with nuts alone.
Pro Tip: See if you can find "factory seconds" for sale. These are pieces of gear with cosmetic defects, such as the paint color not being quite right, but nothing wrong stucturally. They are often 40% off for that silly reason. I love buying "factory seconds".
>>
>>1442894
>>1443048

if you have a good climbing shop near you, they often have a consignment section of people selling some used gear -- you can troll around these parts looking for some cheap cams/packs/etc. I've seen some cams that are blown the fuck out (can be repaired -- just wires/sling is ripped) but don't buy those ones imo unless you know what you are doing to repair them. I bought a full set of cams minus a 5 and 6 for $450 off consignment - a little used but otherwise bomber.

You could also find someone with a pro deal off Experticity, 55% off MSRP Black Diamond gear on there... my coworker bought a double rack of BD for $600.
>>
I went to a bouldering gym yesterday. It was alright. My forearms are sore though, I can't even jerk off today.
>>
When setting up a top rope anchor, do I have to use two locking and opposed biners or can I just use one locker? Is the primary purpose of using two to reduce resistance, or is it a safety thing?

Is it worth buying two steel lockers for the above purpose, or is worrying about the aluminium deposits on the rope silly?
>>
Howdy, Climbing General
I have a blind date coming up at an indoor climbing gym, pls advise me on the best footwear to bring. Options are:
>Vibram memefingers
>Brooks Ghost 9 running shoes
>very worn pair of Merrell hiking shoes
Pic related is the sole condition on all 3
>>
>>1443497
And all 3 in profile, I’m pretty sure the 5fingers are Treks, but idk since I’ve had them for ~7years now
>>
>>1443497
Just rent a pair of shoes from the gym.
(and burn the memefingers)
>>
>>1443418
1 aluminum locker
>>1443497
listen to >>1443509. renting the right shoes is the right answer. you'll flail in any of those other 3, and you don't want your date to think you too cheap to spend ten extra bucks
>>
>>1443509
>>1443525
She’s a filthy casual too, I’m worried about coming across as a tryhard
>>
>>1443526
Then just suggest you both rent shoes because you'll both have more fun. Honestly.
>>
>>1443526
don't be filthy and wear outside shoes at an indoor gym
>>
>>1443509
>not wearing toe shoes
Plebian and bluepilled
>>
>>1443619
they are absolute trash for climbing in. climbing you put a lot of weight just over your toes, and climbing shoes are designed to distribute the weight across more of your foot and to deform relatively little. toe shoes all your weight stays on the toes you're standing on, which is tiring, your toes will be pushed apart and twisted, and the material of the shoes will also be twisted around your toes. plus, as has been stated, it's poor form to wear your street shoes on the wall, and you don't want to come across as a stingy faggot the first time you meet this chick.
>>
>>1443526

you should pay for the shoes for both of yall imo. she can pay for lunch tho or you can just write it off as a bootknockin expense. you also might be able to rent harnesses to use autobelays if the gym has them. my climbing gym charges $8 for the pair. desu climbing at a gym is kind of expensive your first time until you've "bought in" to climbing, especially if you're paying for 2 people. my gym would charge: $15 for day pass, $8 for shoe+harness rental, total $23, $46 for 2. however if it's not a mega-corp gym they'd probably just give you the harness for free or something (i do this bc i'm too lazy to do the transaction than to just hand you the harness lol)

have fun tho and remember to climb like a monkey if you wanna fuck like a monkey
>>
Just popping in to say that climbing terrifies me and I'm a complete pussy because my 58 year old dad has climbed the Grand Teton and I have done nothing. ;_;
>>
>>1443724
Aw it’s all good homeboy. If climbing spooks you, you can make some choices: find another hobby like fishing or hiking or something and have a blast with that, or practice climbing and learn it. When you know something, it doesn’t scare you so much any more. You have as much potential — if not more than, your father. You just need to get out there and get psyched about it!
>>
>>1443724
climbing terrifies me, too. that's why i do it.
>>
Are mountaineers welcome to post?
>>
>>1443876
>A place to talk about climbing in any aspect
>>
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>>1443418
Most people say to run 2 lockers. But two opposing non lockers is fine. Lots of dudes just run quick draws but if you're asking this then run 2 lockers.
>is worrying about the aluminium deposits on the rope silly?
Yes
>>1443545
Fuck that dude. I see people wear them into the bathroom all the time and that's ridiculous anyways.


Any ice climbers here? Anyone read the book Kiss or Kill? Mark Twight was a fucking pimp.
>>
>>1444544
Opposite and opposing to clarify.
>>
>>1444544
>I see people wear them into the bathroom all the time and that's ridiculous anyways
call them on it. i feel like it should be common sense, but the gym i go to has signs about it and i still have to tell jackasses to change their damn shoes.
>>
>>1444559
I've thought about it and yes there are signs. And yes it's common sense. So me yelling at some overweight basic cunt ass college bitch isn't going to change shit. I only climb indoors a few times in the winter when I'm super bored. If I was a regular I might try. I just lift weights in the winter now. If the climbing gym was closer Id go more.
>>
Who Front Range here?
>>
>>1444565
where did i say yell? just point out that it's frowned upon and why. literally one polite sentence is all you need.
>>
how strong are climbers? Most look shredded as fuck
>>
>>1444699
there's a very wide range. though top level tend to be pretty strong, and they have very low bf % which contributes to their appearance.
>>
>>1444544
Yeah, I love that book. I just ordered Extreme Alpinism too. He's got a fitness podcast called Dissect that's worth listening to.
>>
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>>1444952
Cool I'll check that out. I was really hoping I'd like skinny puppy but I don't haha. I do love joy division though. But damn Twight was a beast. Funny how honnold has become an enigma, but no one know about twights fucking bonkers ice soloing.
>>
>>1444954
Check out Steve House too. They did Slovak Direct together. He wrote a book called Beyond the Mountain which shares a lot of themes with Kiss or Kill. House also wrote Training for the New Alpinism which is far and away the best climbing fitness book out there.

But yeah, Twight is an amazing dude.
>>
>>1444955
Wrote that down will definitely check it out. Was super humbling reading part of that book then going and climbing in the same area near Banff.

This is a scary article. Was about 30 mins drive from there. Read this after but it sure did seem like grizzly country. Saw wolf tracks. Was wishing I brought my bear spray haha.
>>
>>1444958
>bear spray
Get gud, my dude
>>
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>>1445130
Haha based.
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Verry stupid question here:
I have a half-rope and my weight is rather low at 58 kg.
Half-ropes get tested with a 55kg mass dropping from 4,8 m height on 2,8 m of rope.
Am I correct with my assumption that I can safely abseil with it as a single rope using a tube or use it as a single toprope?
>>
>>1445315
it almost certainly won't break of it's own accord, but it will stretch significantly more than a single or a proper two halves system, and i assume it's quite thin, which will mean it's more susceptible to damage. why do you want to do this? are you just being a cheapass and want to buy a less expensive half instead of a proper single or a pair of halves?
>>
>>1445331
I just wanted to know in case It isn't long enought to be used the proper way.
Probably going to buy a longer one soon anyway.
>>
>>1445339
you know "half rope" has literally nothing to do with length, right?
>>
>>1445531
I'm aware of that, however if I need to take it twice, I end up with only half the length.
>>
I just climbed my first v3 after 3 months please be proud of me
>>
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I finally got the Bible in the mail and have started reading in TFtNA.
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>>1443509
this is the correct answer
>>
>>1445551
so why did you buy just one half rope?
>>
>>1445558
I remember those feels. Between v3-v5 was my fastest progression.
>>
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Does anyone have a diet to recommend? While Im climbing just because I love it, it wouldnt hurt to stop looking like shit while I do it
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>>1445720
Just figure out your maintenance and work from there if you need to gain or lose weight. Use my fitness pal for a few weeks. Go to /fit/
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How do I get into anything climbing related? What's a good starting point?
>>
>>1445558
I'm proud of you.
Now go climb outside
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>>1445782
>find something
>climb it

less sarcastically:
>climbing club (college or other)
>climbing gym
>start bouldering and make friends
>mountainproject or other forums (helps to be able to belay if you go this route)
>>
>>1445793
Bring shoes and harnesses to the crag and ask some chill dudes for a belay and offer them cannabis and beers.
>>
>>1443418
Would I feel fine going off one locking biner? Yes. Do I ever use just one instead of two (lockers or non-locking) opposed? No.
You should have assloads of biners, give yourself some piece of mind and run 2.
>>
>>1445940
why? the carabiner's not the part of the system that's ever going to fail due to load, it's not going to get cut, and with a locker you don't have to worry about a fluke gate opening accident. 1 locker is absolutely sufficient.
>>
>>1446020
I never run systems where forgetting to lock 1 screwgate can compromise the whole system, maybe thats just me tho. Like I said I'd trust 1, I just trust 2 "more enough" to justify the 10 seconds to throw it on.
>>
>>1446020
>>1446030
I don't think either of you are wrong, just different approaches.

I'm gonna run two. With that said, would using a pair of these be fine, or is there an a advantage in a different style, bearing in mind I'll be using the same anchor in the future for big wall climbing.
>>
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>>1446039
Forgot pic
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>>1446040
whats up with that locker on the PAS? It is fucking with my eyes. Do you have the yellow band, a locker, then the rest of the PAS? What is it attached to?
>>
>>1446039
>big walls
then you might as well start practicing not using pointless redundancy now. big walls are about minimizing bullshit.
>>
>>1446048
think its 2 PAS? idk
>>1446039
Yeah thats the same sort of biner I use; they amke way lighter ones if you have $$$ but that works perfect.
Maybe just me but I have a 1set of carabiners I always put into the anchor bolts and webbing/cordalette/whatever, and never run a rope through, because all that time on the anchor will gouge the metal a bit.
>>
>>1446030
the 10 seconds doesn't enter into it. i want as little crap around my anchor as possible so i can easily see exactly what's going on, and if there are any problems, like an unlocked locker.
>>
>>1446048
It's sling, biner, PAS in that pic.
I think the sling was girth hitched around a tree.
>>
>>1446066
yeah now that I look at it more, it looks like a yellow sling into the biner with the PAS 1-2 links below. It threw me for a whirl because that PAS's end link is yellow and so is the sling lol
>>
How come I'm good at bouldering but shit the bed with top rope?
>>
>>1446345
because you don't understand what is going on with the system yet

what are you fucking up?
>>
>>1446350
Part of it is being scared of the higher falls but maybe it's mostly an endurance thing? I get like halfway up the wall and all the moves are easy enough, but my arms start getting tired which making those moves harder to keep doing. Plus there seems to be a bigger emphasis on footwork than with bouldering, at least on the routes I've done so far. I'm also not sure how to take rests. I see other people just kinda hang there if they fall too regain their strength but I'm not sure how to get back to the wall from just hanging in the air.
>>
>>1446356
jugs are good rests to use on sport routes. a good crimp, maybe... it is all body positioning. if you feel you can rest there, you can. if not, keep going. the scare of falling just comes with time (and taking a whip or 2). footwork is key but i practice footwork more on boulders than i do on sport routes. on toprope there is nothing to worry about -- your belayer should have you on enough slack that you don't fall more than 1ft or so. the system on top rope is safest of all, since there is no possibility of a large fall or running out gear.
>>
>>1446350
>>1446356
Over-gripping, I bet. Bouldering tends to be all hard moves, while your average lead is a mix of easy stuff & crux moves. You have to learn to rest/shake out/straight-arm the easier bits, and avoid over-gripping which saps your strength.
>>
Name my band.
>>
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Opinions on paying for a guide to teach rock climbing, specifically leading trad.

How did/are you learning to climb? Friends, internet, classes, guide?
>>
>>1446922
a bit with competent friends a long time ago, in a club now
>>
>>1446436
I'll have to try that out and try loosening my grip, thanks for the idea
>>1446421
Guess I mostly just need to get used to it
>>
>>1446922
I don't trad (racks = $$$, gonna start this summer tho)
But I went to a gym solo, made some friends, we were gonna go out with some experienced guys and learn to sport lead. All the experienced guys bailed, we said fuck it and taught ourselves. Maybe a bit sketch haha but way fun
>>
rainy day in Vegas. hows the climbing near you guys lately?

>>1446922
first of all, guides can definitely be beneficial as they will teach you the safe, practical way to climb. however, if you can find a mentor to take you out and show you the ropes, that is the best start. but lets face it, mentors are hard to come by these days. not many people want to take the time to invest in new climbers. another start would be supertopos, freedom of the hills, or the falcon guides. youtube is a good source (search mikebarter387) however this is not my first choice of recommendation because you can read as much as you want but nothing will ever beat actually going through the motions with someone who has that experience already. hanging out at a gym and getting the strength while being open to going out with some strangers is a good way to get into the hairy (read: fun) shit.

i learned to climb by hanging in a gym and meeting people.
>>
Anyone experienced in ice climbing? Im gonna try it out this weekend and I'm mostly used to rocks
>>
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>>1448986
I've been once but I'll say this. Make sure your boots are tight enough. Bring headlamp. Bring small backpack along with normal pack.
>>
>>1443497
Wait what? You can't climb without climbing shoes dude. It will just be a shit time.
I don't think my gym allows people to climb in trainers. Just rent some shoes for like $3.
>>
>>1448986
Once, and top rope only. It's different enough that I would not do it without experimented people and of course the proper gear.
>>
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What's a good progress roadmap for someone who's never climbed before? Ive been at it a few months and I'm loving it but I keep getting paranoid im not progressing fast enough
>>
>>1449459
terrible attitude.
>>
>>1449459
Don't worry about progress too much. Worry about going out and having fun. There's so much online in the way of training, but if you take the time and listen to podcasts, read books, watch youtube vids, more often than not the general consensus is for the first few years climbing the best thing you can do is just go climb. Give you tendons a chance to catch up with the muscle that you'll hopefully be building. Get you finger strength up slowly. Expose yourself to new rock types, new routes, different styles of climbing. Just have fun.
>>
What are your opinions on scarpas vs Red Chilis?
Im getting them online, has anyone done that before?
I am getting them from bergfreunde.de and their size Charts seem trustworthy yet I would Like an opinion.
>>
>>1449710
Don't order climbing shoes online. Fit is too important. Go to a physical store to get fitted and buy them there.
>>
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How much of this gear is left behind?
>>
>>1449712
Im size 15 us (49 for euros iirc) they don't carry my size
>>
climbing makes my heart go boom boom real fast and arms and legs quake
>>
Casualfag who wants to start seriously gymratting at the local indoor place here. Any suggestions for a good beginner harness and shoes with features that can scale into higher skill activities as I advance?
>>
>>1449831
go to the gym and try them on. any harness will transition, and by the time you're good enough for your shoes to affect your performance your first pair will already be worn out.
>>
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How do you guys better climb for multiple days in a row? I want to move from 3 days a week to 5 days but my arms were so fucked from the day before that I just ended up falling way more than normal.
>>
>>1451329
Pop some ibuprofen and get moving. When your muscles warm up the pain gets much milder.
>>
>>1451329
either a) don't, or b) work on something different like endurance (lap easy routes instead of pushing your grade limit) or your footwork (on thin lower angle projects that don't require as much arms).
>>
>>1451329
You'll get used to it.
>>
does indoor bouldering count?
>>
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>tfw you will never be a professional climber
>>
>>1453861
Who gives a fuck. If you really wanna just become a dirtbag and get a seasonal job.
>>
>>1453879
honestly not a terrible sounding idea
>>
>>1453861
No such thing. They're all just professional advertisers/influencers who climb.
>>
Relative newbie here. I feel like I’m hitting the limits of what I can do just throwing myself at the wall and seeing how to stick. What’s your recommendations for learning actual technique?
>>
>>1454553
climb more, watch people climb while you rest, and watch videos of people climbing
>>
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>want to get into mountaineering because no hobbies
>get some nesseray gear like crampon
>look for some beginners courses to get some experience
>cost a fortune
Half of them are 3 days "courses" at the end climbing some 13000 ft for shit ton of money or the cheap one "how to walk for elderly people" also only in summer. Beside the fact my only friend also interest is a poor fag and don't even want to spend the money on gear.
How did you guys get into mountaineering? I got a hole month free in march before college start, Solo would be a option but it's a stupid idea with no experience.
Maybe I just hiking some low mountains and reading books? At the moment my only option.
>>
>>1454622
You do it the old school way, move near the mountains and start small and work your way up over the years. Purchase and read The Freedom of the Hills and NEVER forget to be humble. You can get most of your gear used on CL or ebay or mountainproject forums. Guides want you to think general mountaineering is more complicated than it is, but for your first few years you can self teach and solo many objectives. Non-technical spring/winter snow travel and low grade rock climbing are the foundations. Of course you start with some winter snow travel and maybe some 3rd/4th class scrambles for many of your outings. All of this is covered in the Freedom of the Hills.
>>
>>1454622
literally just go out nigga, start small

tf u need crampons for if u have never even touched a mountain before in a mountaineering fashion

put on some trail runners and hit it lad
>>
>>1454553
How to Rock Climb, by John Long
>>
>>1454622
If you're both broke--which is what it sounds like--take up rock climbing instead. It's a better hobby and you'll get shredded and meet people easily.
>>
>>1453861
Why?

I'm moving over the summer closer to the mountains and hundred of crags; will be able to climb almost any day if I want to while still living the comfy lifestyle that a regular job can provide me. Best of both worlds.

>I can get injured and still pull money in from desk job
>I can pay the bills easily
>I don't have to become an insatgram whore partnering with shitty brands
>No need for performance and newsworthy ascents, no unnecessary risk to take

Being pro sounds shit desu, all you need is a psyched crew of strong and motivated people to go out with and you'll be living the life.
>>
>>1454622
Join your college climbing/mountaineering club
>>
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>>1454629
Thanks for the feedback, I found some good used gear and got the book, also I planned my first "mountaineer" hike in 6500 ft.
>>1455155
I got already my first experience in january with mountaineer trying to walk up with snowshoe. Bad Idea.
>>1456163
well indoor rock climbing is very popular here
>>1456329
Not college but they have a local one. I give it a shot
>>
>>1456207
Simple, I don't want to do anything but climb and being a pro would enable that and give me the resources necessary for climbing everything I can and let me focus on giant ascents to continue pushing myself and the known limits
>>
>>1456547
hahaahahaha you fool. You want to be a bum living in the back of your car in indian creek. You don't want to be a pro and constantly be training everyday and constantly pushing the limits to maintain your sponsorships. Anyway, unless you climb 5.13 and you're 14 years old you'll never go pro these days.
>>
>>1456550
Happened upon watching a pro climber hitting up some overhanging 5.13's and 5.14's at an undisclosed location in Nevada recently.

It's undeniably insane. The kinda shit that looks like one in a million would be able to do. Just stick to climbing as a hobby. If you wanna make money from it become a guide.
>>
>>1456550
This right here.
>>
Anyone here made their own bouldering or climbing wall at home?

Does anyone have recommendations for a good fingerboard?
>>
>>1457149
For a fingerboard you just need a thick, medium, and thin campus board rungs. Expensive ones with all those pockets are unnecessary.
I've made a crack-technique trainer but not a home wall.
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>>1457172
I made this already, it has a 1\2" and 1" rungs. I use the top for pull-ups.

What about those ball things that hang? They any good?
>>
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>>1457227
Forgot pic.
>>
Can you recommend me a knot that can slide along a rope but stays in place when weighted?

I know this is kinda OT, but basically I have to hang something (you can pretend it's me if that makes you feel better) and change the height regularly. I have been using a prussik, and it works well except that it requires two ropes in order to be adjustable all the way to the top and then there is the loose end of the hanging rope which gets in the way.

Previously I was running it from the load up through a carabiner and off to the side through a eyehook before it was tied back onto itself with a tautline hitch. This uses one rope and keeps the end out of the way but has a side line in the way and the side line has to be twice the adjustable height, which uses a lot of rope.

Today I was playing with the munter hitch and variations (mini munter wrapped around a carabiner worked best) but all require a stopper knot or they will slip under load and vibration. They are difficult to raise as well.

What other knots can I look into?
>>
>>1457235
Blake's hitch, distel hitch, klemheist
>>
If I'm going top roping and want to make my anchor tied to trees, then all the gear I need is:

- Dynamic climbing rope
- Static rope for anchor
- 2 locking carabiner for master point
- Some material to pad the rope over the edge and around trees
- belay device+locking carabiner, harness, shoes

Anything I'm missing? And is a Petzl push 9mm rope suitable for my static rope?
>>
>>1457627
Sounds good to me.
>>
>>1457627
>Dynamic climbing rope
sure. but static works for trs, too. that's what gyms use, and i actually prefer static because there's no stretch when you blow a move. i bought a static rope just for tring. added bonus: it saves the wear on a more expensive dynamic rope.
>[9mm] Static rope for anchor
sure. alternatively, i use webbing or 6mm cordalette
>2 locking carabiner for master point
only need 1.
>Some material to pad the rope over the edge and around trees
no. just extend your anchor so the climber's rope is beyond the edge. and since the anchor doesn't move the trees don't need padding.
>belay device+locking carabiner, harness, shoes
yes
>helmet
you forgot this
>>
>>1457651
I think that even with extended anchors, some padding is nice. Equalized anchors might move around a bit, even on top ropes.
But don't buy expensive rope protectors, especially if you can walk to the top of the cliff to set up the top rope. Find some old carpet, thick towels, old rubber mat or whatever. It's probably going to cost nothing
>>
>>1458655
to each his own. but the amount of abrasion a fixed anchor line would experience is not worth the hassle of packing in and setting up padding, imo.
>>
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Trad climbers.

A basic trad rack seems to consist of the following:
1 set of cams, covering #.4-3
1 set of wired nuts or stoppers
10 shoulder-length (60 cm) sewn runners
20 non-locking carabiners
4 locking carabiners
4-6 quickdraws
1 nut tool
20-30 feet of 7mm accessory cord
1 Prusik

What do you add to your rack that you feel is valuable?
>>
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>>1460715
doubles of cams are very nice, and a set of offset nuts. my favorite pro is actually my dmm offset wallnuts. they sink super solid and almost always feel bomber.
>>
>>1460715
Where do you plan on climbing?
>>
>>1456207

-moving to Denver...
>>
>>1460715
What you add to it will depend on where you do most of your climbing and what gear your partner(s) have to share. I climb at the NRG and Seneca and have some small cams (metolius TCUs) and offset nuts, as >>1460777 said dmm are just the best. I also have tricam evos which are very useful but I wouldn't consider them necessary.

You'll also want to include racking carabiners, most people I know do one for each cam, and split a set of nuts onto two.
And one or two double-length runners for those wandering routes and overhangs!
>>
>>1461313
Will be climbing in the Gunks. But more generally I was looking for insights like >>1460777 provided.

Just shit that might not usually be mentioned but you guys find useful.
>>
>>1461338
when you buy a carabiner to rack your nuts on be sure to get a KEYLOCK one. otherwise every time you go to unrack one its loop will get hung up on this little fucker right here and drive you insane.
>>
>>1461372
owner of DMM offset wallnuts

yeah, you want the keylock, not these sumbitches. you can usually find em online and rarely at a local climbing shop. afaik REI doesn't stock them
>>
>>1461315
you think you're gonna be climbing everyday? More like waiting in lines everyday.
>>
congratulated Honnold on his Oscar today with a joke about cat food. He just looked at me and wandered off.

whomst /turbo tismo/
>>
>>1461547
what was the joke?
>>
Why the fuck are climbing gyms so expensive? There’s one that just opened in my city but it’s $82 a month. The cheapest I’ve found is $60
>>
>>1461560
"hehe bet the cats are gonna be happy with them Oscars"

not my best but all I could come up with, he was staring right into my eyes.

>>1461580
Usually insurance reasons (insurance is fucking expensive for a climbing gym, who knew?) Also, you are (generally, if they don't fucking suck) able to take part in just about anything the gym offers -- showers, full day passes, shoe rentals, etc. with your membership. If you're an experienced climber, you can generally get away with some shit less experienced folk will not be allowed to partake in unless instructed.

Or, they're just fucking yuppy wh*tes trying to cash in on the new Crossfit. Burn down your local Whole Foods, smash the windows of Sprinter vans!
>>
>>1461580
gyms got super expensive in the last 5-7 years, especially in urban areas. Now that climbing for yuppies everywhere they make a killing
>>
>>1462212
>hehe bet the cats are gonna be happy with them Oscars
wut. that makes no sense. you deserved to be looked at like you're a retard.
>>
>>1462243
I panicked
>>
just got a membership to the gym and have been doing some top rop with friends. its pretty fun desu and getting better is satisfying. bouldering is hard as fuck tho
>>
>>1462952
Bouldering will take a lil while to get into. Best advice is keep trying problems that are a grade or two harder than your limit. And don't bother with problems that require full crimps or mono/2 finger pockets until you've been climbing a year or two.
>>
>wrist pain
It wasn’t any one thing that triggered it, I think it’s just from increased frequency. Likely from shit form or something. I know I need to take take it easy and let it heal but I want to climb reeee
>>
>primarily boulder
>recently did my first two v5s(on slab)
>Struggle to do v3s on harsh overhangs

Is this normal? Or could it be that my gym is dumb?
>>
>>1463577
maybe you have good footwork but have twigs for arms
>>
>>1463577
work on your core strength. front and back. deadlifts are god tier do planksas a bare minimum. if your ass drops on an overhanging route you're coming off.
>>
>>1463590
I don’t think so, I have strong upper arms and a strong back, I think I just have weak grip and bitch wrists
>>
>>1463577
>>1463610
also, technique-wise, work on your deadpointing, and make sure to keep your arms straight as much as possible, so you're hanging off your ligaments instead of your biceps. bent elbows=exhausted muscle
>>
>>1463610
>>1463612
Thanks, will work on all that
>>
What should the focus be in a cool down session after bouldering? Do you work out before or after a session? And what equipment do you use?
>>
>>1463577
Normal, I once watched a girl flash like a v6 slab in j tree but couldn't do some easier but steeper routes. You probably just don't know how to use your feet on overhung problems.
>>
Any reason I shouldn't purchase a DMM Maverick 2 as a first harness? My local outdoors shop has them at like 50% off right now.
All I'm looking to do right now is top rope, and maybe move onto lead climbing at some point when I'm a bit more confident.
Any other recomendations for a reasonable priced first harness would be great thanks
>>
>>1464359
No it should be a fine harness, go for it.
>>
>>1443706
say that to Bernd Arnold. haha
>>
Is there any better solo rig than static rope, an descender, figure 8, a rack of biners, and a few cams?
>>
>>1464778
ascender for fucks sake autocorrect.
>>
>>1464778
>>1464779
yes. since you specified static rope i assume you want to solo top rope. my setup uses a petzl rescucender and a ct roll'n'lock for self belay, and a grigri to set and unload the system and lower myself. but there are plenty of other progress capture devices that will work just as well. petzl microcender is the "standard". i assume the cams and biners are just for setting an anchor or directionals?
>>
>>1464817
Yes I should be clear I never have used cams to do anything but set directions to prevent myself from getting pulled/thrown across a face when my top rope is angled too much.

I really didn't like the grigri I tried. If I belayed others on a regular basis I would probably get one but generally I tie off my rope at the top, rappel in with my figure 8, then climb out with my ascender and my figure 8 in belay mode as a backup.
>>
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>>1464818
doesn't your figure 8 twist the shit out of your rope?
i don't like belaying with a grigri either, but it's really nice to be able to just let go of the brake release and hang.
here's a pic of my setup. real simple, real secure, feeds real smooth without any tending on my part.
>>
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>>1464829
I've read that about figure 8s but I have never had an issue. Generally after climbing there will be a twist or two in the rope but I just run my hand through it when wrapping up my rope.

Muh box of risky /out/ behavior. I'm a big fan of chinese knockoffs with CE certifications lmao.
>>
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>>1442673
Just watched this, is he the ulltimate outist or what?
>>
Any good free climbing documentaries someone can recommend? Can't find anything apart from Valley Uprising.
>>
>>1465799
The Dawn Wall just came out on netflix.
>>
>>1465799
Free climbing documentaries or climbing documentaries that are free?
>>
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>tfw injured so no climbing
>>
Can someone tell me what that tape on his hands is for?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PXsrHuvd0os
>>
>>1467555
probably so the metal doesn't chew up his hands. cold raw metal is rough on the skin.
>>
>>1467468
pls get well soon lad

what can you do in the mean time to keep yourself in shape?
>>
>go to school two times a week, dont do shit the other days of the week
>usually into cycling, can't ride much doring winter
>bored out of my mind
>kinda want to get into climbing

How does one even get started? There's a climbing gym a 5 minute walk away so I'm considering heading over there, renting some shoes and trying out some easy bouldering. I would eventually like to get into climbing with ropes but that'll come later I suppose.
>>
>>1468331
>I'm considering heading over there, renting some shoes and trying out some easy bouldering
great way to start. cheap way to try it out. if you like it keep going and buy your own shoes. easy to make friends since you automatically have something in common and to talk about. if you get into bouldering take a belay class at the gym so you can be useful when you get someone to properly climb with.
>>
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>tfw been gymratting indoors climbing for the past year nearly
>didn't join the school club (we have a wall at school gym)
>didn't go to the trips last semester because was too busy
>graduating in a few months
>will be stuck with commercial gyms and have precisely 0 friends that climb, only acquaintances with the regulars here
>whom I will be leaving behind to move somewhere I don't know anyone
>won't be able to go on school sponsored trips at that point
>desperately want to do outdoor trips but the last one got packed before I could pay, and seemingly no more being scheduled
Guys this is depressing me, I'm going to move away to commercial gyms and not know anyone and be stuck. I'm worried I'll ditch the sport after I graduate and it's my only hobby.
People say to just meet people, but I'm a fucking autist and have spent the last year barely knowing anyone I've swapped belays with indoors regularly. At a commercial gym I can only imagine it'll be worse fuckkkkkkkkk
>>
I'm 23 and just started top roping/bouldering at a local gym. Where do you guys get the most valuable info about techniques and stuff?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EdrAoKZPXxA
I've been trying to dissect this video for a added insight into bad/good form and I feel like this sort of stuff really puts everything from tutorial videos into perspective

I've seem most youtube "tutorials" and I'm looking for a more in-depth guide than that but people usually just say "just keep climbing bro".

Am I being too autistic for looking for maybe too technical aspects or is it something that people usually do?
>>
>>1468378
Jesus christ you are fucking pathetic
>>
>>1468706
>weight on your toes
>hips close to the wall
>feet pointed the same direction
>arms straight
work on those 4 things as a beginner and you'll see exponential improvement. obviously they're not absolutes, but as guidelines they'll help a lot. as far as specifics and subtleties, my best learning has been from watching and talking to climbers better than me about specific sequences that give me trouble. and once you get better at climbing you'll be able to focus more on what you're doing and notice small difference in what other people are doing.
>>
anyone check out the freesoloist? good podcast about a free soloer. recently did 12 5.12's. nutso guy.
>>
https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-england-derbyshire-47470232

o7

I like to think when climbers pass they end up at the base of Mt. Olympus for one final summit.
>>
Finally got to climb again after two weeks off from injury
Fuck is it frustrating not being at the level I was when I had to stop though.
>>
>>1454622

I had the same thing, bro. There was no gym where I grew up, let alone any mountains. Didn't know anyone who was even remotely interested in climbing.

I did my best saving up money, but it was taking too long, so I used the money I had to travel to Australia on a working visa. Two years of working my ass off allowed me to save up a shit load of money. I was able to invest in all the gear, booked a ticket to New Zealand and finally took a mountaineering course last January.

It took me ages to fulfill this childhood dream of mine, but dammit was it worth the wait! I'm 28 now though and sometimes feel like I'm starting my climbing career too late. Well see how far I get before age catches up with me.

Pick related: was taken on Frans Josef Glacier.
>>
>>1469142
>sometimes feel like I'm starting my climbing career too late.
what does this mean? do you want to be a sponsored climber and get flown all over the world to crush .14s on youtube? if so, then yeah, you're a bit behind the 8 ball. but if you just want to go out and climb and have fun and challenge yourself it's never too late. that's one of the things i love about climbing: there's limitless climbing for every ability level. and fwiw i didn't start 'til i was almost 31.
>>
>>1469104
Two weeks shouldn't make much of a difference. Be thankful you only had to wait two weeks.
>>
>>1469165
this. 3 years ago i fucked up my shoulder and lost 6 months.
>>
>>1469142
I don't think 28 is too late at all for this kinda stuff. It keeps you fit and is fun as fuck.
>>
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>>1469162
this is the truth and i still have to remind myself of this sometimes. i climbed for the first time as a kid during a birthday party. climbed again in highschool when a 60 yr old climber friend of my father's was living at our house and took me to a local crag 3 or 4 times over the course of a summer. he died in 2017 climbing in rocky mountain national park and when I heard news of it I decided to get a membership at a gym and take up the hobby at 26 yrs old. i'll never be a pro but after just a year of climbing i've excelled so much, and i've got decades of climbing to go before ill be on the decline. best part about it being a hobby instead of a career is that its more fun and just a great way to meet normal people who share the hobby. meanwhile i can dedicate my career to something productive like environmental advocacy
>>
>>1469415
>>1469142
You should climb for the enjoyment, not for the prospects of being a pro. I started at 21 and even that's too late to have a shot at being a pro but who cares. Climb until you're really good and then just dirtbag it if you still want climbing to be at the center of your life. The primary goal for climbing should always be to have fun and to improve.
>>
Just curious to know how long other anons have been climbing and what grade you lead/follow at. What grade are you aiming for, if any.

I've been at it about a year, transitioned from bouldering to sport and now dabbling in trad.

I lead sport at 5.10-5.11 and follow trad around 5.9

Hoping to get comfortable around 5.12-5.13 for sport and ideally 5.12 for trad.
>>
>>1469652
>lead 5.11
>follow 5.9
wut
>>
>>1469652
I've been climbing since late october and because I don't have a partner I've just basically only been bouldering. I'm at v3 at the moment and I want to get to v6 or v7 by the end of the year, and I think it's possible if I keep climbing 3 times a week and don't get injured like I had earlier, which stopped my progress for a bit.
>>
>>1469658
idk, sounds funky, but from my exposure to trad thus far, it seems harder than sport to me.
>>
>>1469661
>sportweenies inflating their grades to stroke their ego
sounds about right. but sorry your area has such a shitty discrepancy. the grades SHOULD be equivalent.
>>
>>1466546
Free climbing.
>>
>>1469652
Like it goes in waves if you’ve been sport climbing somewhat consistently for a couple years then 5.11 should be sendable.
Trad takes a few years to feel comfortable trusting you gear. But like grades are kinda whack anyways.
>>
>>1469659
Your progress will really start to slow after v4.
It took me all of last year to get from v6 to v8 and I was very happy with that
>>
Just bought and installed my first hangboard. Is it ok for me to use it everyday with 5 sets of 5 reps of 10 second hangs?
>>
>>1470182
Probably. Take a day or two off every now and then though.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VeKE5VH5-qg
>>
>>1469671
The grades are equivalent but the mental challenge of trad is not to be underestimated. Any sport monkey can do a 5.11 clip-up but get pumped out on a 5.8 fumbling with gear or getting sketched out because the distance between gear is longer than it would have been with bolts.
>>
>>1470217
no shit. what does that have to do with anything i said?
>>
Just came back from my first time at a climbing gym, had an absolute blast, defnitely going to keep it up.

My fingers are absolutely fucked though god damn.
>>
>>1470763
Is your body in pain yet? First time I went bouldering I was destroyed for a couple days afterwards.

Time to start filing your calluses down.
>>
>>1470830
Not yet, at the moment I'm more just generally fatigued. Probably gonna be way worse tomorrow though.
>>
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>>1469652
Been climbing indoors for nearly a year and just got back from first outdoor trip.
Indoors I can lead 5.10, outdoors I was too much of a pussy to lead above 5.8 and even TRing the 10's and 11's was killing me.
But man the mental block was bad there. It was super cool but I was too spooked to try it I guess. Didn't help I didn't have a helmet and all I could think about was my leg getting caught at a bad fall and smashing my skull in
>>
>>1471106
you'll get over it by simply climbing more. realizing you are safe (especially on toprope) and knowing that you are in control of all aspects -- climbing, footwork, even calling to your partner that they need to take slack -- help to lessen the mental block and produce a send atmosphere.
>>
>>1471128
I'm pretty confident safety-wise for TR. I mean looking around when we're belaying off a ledge on a tall ass crevice and imagining the rope snapping or something else stupid and me falling onto hard ground freaked me out a couple times but didn't affect me, the views were too good to care. But I just need to take more unexpected falls and see how safe my feet are because that was the main issue for me. I'm confident I won't z-clip or back clip (I mean maybe I will but I have that down) but sometimes it seems like your feet are in danger of getting caught behind the rope simply because those are your only footholds
>>
>>1470217
This is posted by someone who has never climbed trad, or some poser getting gripped on moderates.
>>
Ok, here’s the start of something dangerous.

Who here lives in CO that wants to get down on some big wallling?
>>
>>1471300
Im moving there later this year hopefully
>>
>>1471300
inb4 no prusiks or jumars and somebody dies
>>
>>1472232
prussiks are for pussies
>>
>>1472413
Tibloc4Death!!!
>>
comfy day
guess the state
>>
PA
>>
>>1472663
>>1472737
^my guess too.
>>
>>1469652
Gym climbing since September and just did my first V6 two days ago. On toprope I've done a 5.11D. Took my lead certification test a couple weeks ago and highest I've done so far is 5.9.

Did a day of bouldering in Central Park on an unusually warm January day, and ever since then I can't wait to get outside once it's consistently in the 50s.
>>
>>1472663
NJ
>>
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Are there any YouTube channels of female climbers doing bouldering/climbing?

I am tired of looking at shirtless Scandinavian dudes.
>>
>>1472737
>>1472738
Govenor stables near lebanon, lots of cool problems. Anyone want to meetup in new york this summer for top rope?
>>
>>1472908
How crowded was it in CP? Moving there in June.
>>
>>1472940
You sound really gay.
>>
>>1472908
for the love of god quit throwing out your gym grades, especially if they're at an NYC gym lol. as soft as soft gets.
>>
>>1473249
this x1000. why do people brag about how hard they climb plastic? i would be way more impressed to hear about you leading a 5.7 at the gunks than any grade you ever hit inside.
>>
YDS grade curve:
5.11a, 5.10d, 5.12 gym, 5.11-, 5.11b, 5.11, 5.11c, 5.9 squeeze, 5.11+, 5.10 offwidth, 5.12a, 5.11d, 5.9 Gunks
>>
I've been bouldering a couple of times and I would eventually get into climbing with ropes as well. A local gym offers a one day, five hour course in both top rope and lead climbing and belaying, meanwhile the other two gyms here in town offer it as two separate three hour courses, and they recommend spending a while toproping before starting the lead course.

What do you guys recommend? Ideally I'd like to get it all done in a day but if there are any good reasons not to I'll definitely reconsider it.
>>
>>1473287
Pros of a single 5hr course:
You learn the knots once that apply to both top and lead.
Cons: its 5hrs and you might be too spooked to move into lead already and have to retake the course again in the future.
And if you cant get 5.10s top tope in the gym then dont bother with lead either in my personal opinion
>>
>>1473260
Genuinely curious wtf you are on about? Can you add a bit more of a description to your spoutings.
>>
>>1473287
Why are you paying for someone to teach you this shit? There's a million videos online showing you the fundamentals of climbing. Get some rope and practice knots at home. It's not hard.
>>
>>1473362
easier -> harder
It's a pretty common joke
>>
>>1473193
It wasnt as crowded as i expected just like 5 people. There was an old french climber there who helped me and my buddy by showing us problems that were good for our level of climbing
>>1473249
Hey retard, the guy literally asked for people to throw out their grades
>>
>>1473249
>>1473252
Both of you are currently on an anime message board bragging about how hard you climb.
>>
Well this is a retarded question but here goes.
I'm a beginner and am having trouble with overhangs. Every guide tells you to "activate your core". What the hell does that mean? Tense up your abs and push belly inside, as if I'm posing for a shirtless photo? Or like, flexing your body to move into a fetal position? Or the opposite, like flexing out of a fetal position?
I have no idea. Help
T. Deactivated cores
>>
>>1473522
>>1473520
implying gym grades mean anything. implying anything but the dura dura sport or trad means anything. never bragged about my own grades, but its cringey gumby shit to talk about grades like it, and only newbies do it. You'll meet folks like yourselves if you ever make it outside to a crag someday. always bringing up grades and shit
>>
>>1473538
Yes, when you are overhung think about flexing your abs, as if you were coughing, in one long bout. Chances are your core is weak anyway though so start doing ab exercises. It also helped me to think about really pressing my feet into the footholds, that'll help you get some feedback about why your feet are coming off.
>>
>>1473538
core is as much about lower back as it is abs. keep your hips close to the wall and your back straight.
>>
>>1473196
Gay for female climbers
>>
>>1473545
keep crying retard
>>
Why do even easy route grades start at such high numbers?
>>
>>1473639
????

YDS broken down: { $CLASS_NO[1 ... 5].$GRADE[5 ... 9999] };

The first number is the class, 1 through 5. Class 1 - gentle stroll, class 2 - gentle stroll with some rocks, class 3 - wear boots, class 4 - wear boots and you might have to use your hands once or twice, class 5 - real big boy rock climbing with ropes and everything

Grades: *.5 is the usual starting spot, but there are 5.0's and 5.1's and 5.4's out there. Babies can crawl up them and have some fun, or you can freak out at the top and we will all chuckle and lower you off.

they start at such 'high' numbers because, well, anything under that is some real pussy shit.

bouldering is a whole different class and follows the Verm scale, 0-???, really arbitrary and means almost nothing. don't even worry about it unless you're into bouldering.
>>
Aid grades is where it's at,
A0= bolt ladder
A1= bomber pro
A2= maybe a sketchy piece above bomber pro
A3= spooky
A4= you'll fall and it'll hurt
A5= Ammon McNeely, you got your leg back!
A6 (hypothetical)= yer gunna die
>>
>>1473694
>Not mentioning C grades
>Not mentioning nailing
>Thinking grades can go past A5

I want Jim Beyer to leave, Right Now.
>>
>>1473550
>>1473574
Makes sense. Thanks pals
>>
>>1473694
Aid climbing gear looks neat as shit from an autism collecting and hoarding perspective but damn I don’t even the regular gear beyond harness, quickdraws and belay devices
>>
>>1474405
It’s extremely based.
>>
In the past I’ve always rented my gear. I’m now looking into buying my own.

What length should my slings be? I want to get two small pieces and one larger piece of 6mm rope for my prusics. And decently sized length of tubular webbing to tie into a sling.
I’ll also probably get 10m of cordelet.

What length do you usually get?
>>
>>1474842
six 60 cm and six 120 cm
>>
Any Wisconsin bros climb out a Governor Dodge?
Thinking of going next weekend but I want to know if its snowy and wet or not
>>
>>1474933
I've been to the dodge once for climbing back in 2017. It rained the entire weekend we were camping there and started to clear up on Sunday so we went to search for some dry faces of boulders. Only one we could find dry enough was the north face of the Godfather boulder. Still had fund since it was my first time outdoor climbing, and governor dodge is a cool park in general. Comfy, rainy weekend in October camping with the gf. Good times.

Since then, I usually go to Devil's Lake since there's so much more climbing to do and it's a little closer to Milwaukee, where I live.
>>
A local gym is doing lead climbing courses and they require me to have a specific harness for it.
>Have adual tie-in point
>Have a separate belay loop

I have a climbing harness that is more aimed towards mountaineering and its missing the dual tie in point. (pic related)

Its advertised as being an all round harness but it makes me wonder: is it unsafe to use it for lead climbing? Or is the climbing gym just being extremely safe?
>>
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>>1475724
Actually forgot the fucking picture.
>>
>>1475724
>>1475726
you want a loop on the waist belt to keep you upright when you fall. otherwise you could flip upside down.
>>
What’s up guys
I recently started bouldering, and I love it. That said, my fingers are all fucked from my lack of callouses. Y’all have any recommendations on how to avoid that, and just improving finger strength in general?
>>
>>1476045
You'll build up a resistance to the finger tenderness eventually. Just keep climbing and having fun before doing extra curricular exercises.
>>
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>>1449797
depends how clever you are? If theyre smart, just the anchor and 2 mallions as they rap down. If they dont need to rappel down and are boarding down you can take it all as you start your second pitch of the climb intil you get to the top and then just snow board/ski down

>pic related anchor
>>
>>1476323
>>1449797
This is a mallion, theyre like £3 and you generally leave them at the top of sport routes. thyre like a disposable carabiner.. they're pretty heavy tho
>>
>>1476327
>forgot the pic...
>>
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>>1449797
if there's good blue ice all the way down, zero
>>
>>1476327
>>1476328
those are called quicklinks in the u.s.
>>
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this weekend i did my first outdoor climbs in the greenbelt, austin. as a shut in it was bretty fun, hope to do it again soon
>>
>>1476386
bruh, swap out those lee's for some pranas. add 2 grades to how hard you pull, easy.

but for reals, always fun to see someone on real rock for the first time. keep gettin' after it.
>>
>>1449797
God this was such a badass documentary



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