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Le Tour de France 2019 Edition

Last thread: >>1354266

/n/ Discord: https://discord.gg/z5pdNh2

Resources:
https://sheldonbrown.com/
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
https://booksdescr.com/item/detail/id/1444747

If you want help picking out a bike to purchase, ask in >>>/n/bbg
>>
Guys just wanna ask a quick question I asked in the last thread (bump limit reached)

Should I go for this cheap amazon Chinese tool for cutting gear cable outers? (They're very tough with metal cables running around the outer)

I could spend more money and get one from Wiggle with good reviews (Wiggle are a big UK cycling retailer) but I might just go with the cheapo one and return it if it's defective (they should pay my return shipping in such a case).

Any ideas lads?
>>
>>1358579
Just use side cutters and save 12$?
Wrap tape tightly around the cutting spot first.
>>
>>1358581
Side cutters? I tried using tons of things today including massive garden shears and it was horrifically difficult to cut and resulted in a very frayed end.

Have you cut gear cable outers before? They have metal cables running around the outside and they are very hard to cut. Which is why you need a special tool. Some people online have said a Dremel with a cutting disc works, and I'm sure it does, but that's even more money.
>>
>>1358581
Just googled side cutters, okay side-cutting pliers I see, yes I tried those as well. And it was horrifically difficult to cut, took me maybe 30 minutes of trying just to get through the damn thing, and blunted the pliers, and resulted in a frayed end.
>>
>>1358581
Ignore this retard. Tools are an investment. The proper tool for the job feels so good.
I have that exact same wire cutter, works fine. If the Wiggle one isn't over $20 I'd get that one instead though.
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>>1358585
You have this one here? - >>1358579

I just went with the Wiggle one - it was £17 delivered tomorrow ($21.41 USD) opposed to £13 delivered tomorrow ($16.37). Yeah I'm sure the Chinese one would have worked just fine, they look exactly the same design, and normally I do go for the cheaper option, but I'm sort of losing my patience these days, I'm applying for this job as a bike courier but I keep having niggles on my bike and it needs to be running smooth in order to do such a job, obviously.

So yeah, if you do have that Chinese one, that's cool that it works, but yeah, I just went for pic related because fuck it. It's got many good reviews, while the Chinese one only has five reviews, and whether they're genuine I don't know.
>>
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what is the difference between vision team 30 and team 35? is paying €60 more worth it?
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>>1358587
>You have this one here? - >>1358579
Pretty sure it's the same one, except mine has black grips instead of red. It has become one of my favorite tools. But it's always a good idea to get quality tools. What are 20 bucks for something that'll probably outlive you?
>>
>>1358589
As far as I can tell the only things that are better about the 30 compared to the 35 are that it has a steel freehub body (as opposed to the alloy one on the 35) and it has bladed spokes (as opposed to traditional round ones). On the other hand, the 35 are lighter while being 5mm deeper, fewer spokes, and 6 cartridge bearings instead of 4.
I'd get the 35
>>
>>1358598
thanks
guess I'm gonna have to cut the budget for other components
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>>1358600
So you gonna get the 30? Because not sure if I'm looking at the right site, but it says the 35 are cheaper
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>>1358602
european here
on merlincycles 35 are €210 and team 30 €150
>>
>>1358578
What's a good lunch to pack for a day of trail riding?
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>>1358604
Oh damn, I was just checking their official US site, they're both like twice that price but the 35 are about 50 bucks cheaper
I'm looking at merlincycles now and it says the 30 have cup-and-cone bearings, while the 35 have sealed ones. Personally I'd get the one with sealed bearings.
>>
>>1358610
A bag of nuts/dried fruits, a couple of energy bars, and a couple of sandwiches (which may be somewhat bulky, but you'll be thankful you brought something that feels like an actual meal).
I'd also bring one bottle of water and one bottle of isotonic drink
>>
>>1358579
Get them. They make cutting cables/housings that much easier. Seriously.
>>
>>1358592
Yeah I mean if you compare the two I posted they look like exactly the same design, just different colours, so yeah it must be a common design. Normally I'd take a punt on the cheap one since it doesn't have any bad reviews (only got five reviews though and they might possibly be fake) but yeah, guess I just want to eliminate the stress if it didn't work and it's only a couple quid more really.

>What are 20 bucks for something that'll probably outlive you?
Indeed, I still use spanners that belonged to my grandpa. Of course he probably never knew that I would use them because they were locked in his shed and he died when I was about two. But my grandma let me nose around in there one day and let me keep some spanners I found. The adjustable one I use all the time. Pretty cool really. And I've got tons of my dad's old tools too.

>>1358618
Yeah I was just debating between those ones or these ones: >>1358587

I went with the more expensive ones in the end. Normally I'd take a punt on cheap ones but I just can't be arsed to piss about anymore really. They're probably exactly the same but the more expensive ones (I mean more expensive when you factor in shipping by the way, since I have Amazon Prime which makes shipping free) have way more reviews so that gives me a bit more confidence in them.

But yeah I tried hacking away at a gear cable outer today and it was a fucking nightmare so I definitely need a proper tool.
>>
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Which tape should I use lads?
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>>1358637
Use one on each side, remove whichever you like less and replace with the other
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>>1358637
Black and blue matches the colour of your bike better, but the gray looks comfier.
>>
>>1358660
thats a good idea thanks dude.
>>1358661
i was worried about over matching desu. i just had black on before and i liked it.
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>>1358637
Black/blue on drops, gray on ramps/flats
>>
>>1358637
now hear me out: yellow cork.

google "color theory"
>>
>>1358696
Open the picture dummy
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>>1358696
Thanks Picasso. I actually saw my exact same bike frame and same paint at a shop today and it had yellow cork on it. It looked like shit.
>>
>>1358578
Should I buy a used power-meter??
I'd like one but in no way am I willing to pay 500+ eurodollarydoos for a thing like that.

I've got the 2018 centaur groupset, so I doubt any compatible cranks exist, so pedal recommendations?
>>
>>1358794
>I'd like one but in no way am I willing to pay 500+ eurodollarydoos for a thing like that.
A powermeter really doesn't add much to cycling unless you're doing interval training or time trialing. I don't like the thought of pedal based powermeters because they get chewed up in crashes and there's the always looming threat of pedal striking when pedaling through a tight corner like an idiot. If someone asks me what PM they should get and they really will benefit from owning one, I just say pony up and buy a Quarq or P2M. They're mega-reliable and can be bought for a very reasonable price considering what PMs were running only a few years ago.
>>
What are the least important components in a road bike?
the ones that are obligatory for it to ride but you would rather buy some cheap ones
>>
>>1358699
>>1358707
i was just trying to help :(
>>
>>1358803
frame
chain
innertube
pedal
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>>1358803
Everything except the gear shift (get at least Tiagra), the brakes and the saddle.

Anything else is only a matter of weight and adjustment, as long as you don't buy ultra low end snapping tier shit.
>>
>>1358805
frame material isn't important but fit is.
a cheap chain is fine as long as you keep it in good condition.
>>
What steps do you take to prepare your literal ass for cycling?
>>
>>1358876
Measure your sitbones and make note of any pelvic tilt you have when standing up straight, then buy a saddle wide enough for your sitbones and with curvature appropriate for your natural hip tilt.
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The cable on these cantilever brakes seems awfully long. Is it normal ?
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>>1358887
There aren't any brake pads in there, someone probably loosened the cable to get them out
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>>1358887
>>1358888
Here it is with pads
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>>1358907
they look like they are on the wrong side, but i guess there is some that are designed that way
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>>1358907

They look like they're upside down.
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>>1358876
Take big beefy shits.
Shave and lube.
Thank me later.
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>>1358907
That little nub at the end is not supposed to keep the cable in place, there should be a tightening nut of some sort behind the brake arm.
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>>1358888
>>1358907
The cable on both levers end with this part. I do not see how to shorten it if I have to.
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>>1358938
You don't have to shorten it, you have to run it through the little nut behind the brake arm, squish both brake arms together against the rim, then tighten the little nut down, to hold the cable in place.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/canti-trad.html
>>
Indestructible touring rear wheels. What do you recommend on the market ? I was thinking to get the Mavic Allroad. I have no idea what to get exactly. I just want it to be a shimano body QR, centerlock disc, and to be bomb proof.
>>
Total noob question : When a tire is described as 26 inches (or whatever) in diameter, is that measured from inside to inside, or outside to outside ?
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QUESTION LADS

Chain length. I used online calculators and methods and I think it recommended to me 110 links or something? But I used all 114 because I was lazy. Basically. Anyway, I now have chain slippage in two gears - two sprockets specifically. I think it's a worn cassette but do you think chain length could contribute to this?

I think my chain is probably fine, they only say it's too long if the bottom of your chain is rubbing against your top jockey wheel when you're in any of your gears. That's not the case for me. So it's probably fine.

Also, I have a KMC chain with one of those master link things - if I did want to remove links, I presume I just use a chain tool as normal? But if I do, can I ever reattach those links if I wanted to (assuming I had left the pin retained within one side of the outer plates since they're basically impossible to reinstall if you push them all the way out)?
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>>1358943
There is no such thing. The 4 brake arms are identical. This bike must be old as balls. Can I replace those for V-brakes ?
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>>1358976
try it with the correct number of links and see if it's still fucky
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>>1358987
Yeah I probably should to be honest. Although having said that I think KMC says that the "master link" should only ever be reconnected three times or something in the life of the chain (because otherwise it will become too worn I guess) and I think I've only got one time left because I fucked up the first time trying to connect it and had to redo it.
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Is gorilla tape acceptable to finish bar wrapping? It's the best tape I can find.
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>>1359071
why not electrical tape?
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>>1359008
that's fine, they sell spare master links that you can punch right back out when they're finished like a normal link
>>
Does anyone have any tips for riding .on rural roads. I'm trying to get into longer road rides, but I'm always kind of afraid of getting rear ended by a car
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>>1359071
I guess you could if you had to, but electrical is the usual thing. Silicone tape is an alternative. It doesn't have any adhesive, it just sticks to itself.
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>>1359079
Just get out and ride: statistically it's unusual for bikes to get hit from behind, but more importantly the fear of riding on roads is an emotional state that you only address by gaining experience. Also, remember that no matter how you choose to spend your time, you have a finite amount of time remaining to you - don't let the fear of death keep you from experiencing the joys of being alive.
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>>1358967
wheel size always reflects rim diameter - which only makes sense because the outer diameter of the wheel can vary quite a lot depending on the volume of the tire installed on a given rim
>>
Okay lads, looking to a couple of for mounts to my truck like pic related and have some questions. How should I do it and how do I prevent it from rusting? Should I get Thule or a cheapo brand? Should I get one that takes a pad lock?
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>>1359100
WTF is that? An Avant with a coaster brake?
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>>1359102
I'm pretty sure that's a PowerTap hub
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>>1359105
>$500
>no symmetry issues
>pretty much more accurate than any other existing method
>pretty reliable
Huh, didn't even know this was a thing. Why doesn't anyone talk about these?
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hello friends. this is my first post on /n/. i have a buddy who wants to motorize their bicycle but the way their frame is put together doesn't allow them the space to mount the motor in the center as most bikes seem to have them. is there any popular, cheap workaround for mounting it in the rear? i see kits for sale but they seem to be in 300+ range without the motor. thank you for your help and i apologize if motorized bicycle questions aren't allowed.
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>>1359108
Tell your DUI "buddy" to take the bus and reflect on your... I mean "his" life choices
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>>1359109
We both have valid licenses. I am not hip to your bike memes.
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>>1359112
motorizing a bike is universally inferior to adding an electric hub
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>>1359106
because crank based power meters are the absolute best and super affordable nowadays.
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>>1359122
I recommend Quarq or Power2Max power meters for anyone who wants to train with power. I don't know what you're asking though.
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>>1359116
Any tutorials or kits that you'd recommend for an amateur hobbyist? What can one expect to spend on such a hub?

>>1359124
I replied to the wrong post. My mistake.
>>
I had to patch my chain with a quick link, but it already has a quick link. Does having multiple cause any chain integrity issues?
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>>1359127
Quick links are fine you are fine do not worry
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>>1359125
you can find cheap chinese hubs for under $200 easy, I'd shy away from rear hubs for the sake of simplicity. don't expect them to be road bike friendly, but something that takes fatter tires will work.
best advice is read the specs and get ready to pay fucktons of money on a battery setup
>>
I've been using the garbage stock pedals for both my mtb and my roadie. I'm going raceface chesters > cb stamp 1 for my mtb. What dual platform pedals would you guys recommend for my roadie?
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>>1359134
None. Put some platforms on your roadie and do wheelies on it while dressed casually.

Just to piss off roadies.
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>>1358976
I'm pretty sure your rear derailleur is misadjusted, I don't see the chain causing this. Check your derailer tension and limits.
Just use the same chain lengh as the one before.
>>
>>>/wsg/2946491
>>
>>1358983
You'll need new levers due to the different pull ratio of cantis vs. v-brakes. Or "mini v-brakes" (with shorter arms), if these clear your tires to use with your canti-specific levers. However, I guess I'd rather replace the levers as well and go for regular v-brakes, since everything on that bike looks rather worn out.
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>>1358907
How far are the pads off the rim? They look stupid like that. You’re not supposed to be able to pull the wheel and inflated tire off the bike unless you unhook the straddle cable. Your cantis are probably fine. They aren’t the easiest brake type to set up but damn that doesn’t mean they’re hard either.
>>
>>1359098
This is solid advice. Maybe get a flashing rear light if that makes you feel safer. If Stacy rear ends you while sending lewds to Chad going 70mph in her brand new SUV, you'll likely be dead before you even realize you'd been hit, anyway. Enjoy the ride while it lasts.
>>
Is going tubeless on roadbikes worth it? I don't really see the benefits.
>>
>>1359079
>>1359098
>>1359185
The only time I've ever been rear-ended was in London at a junction. It was like a garbage truck behind me getting impatient (the light had just gone green and we were turning right if I remember). Maybe I was slow getting away or something but yeah the fucking thing hit me from behind, not very hard, and my backpack absorbed the soft impact mostly, but yeah, it was annoying.

But yeah, on rural roads I've had no fear of that ever really. Bear in mind I'm in the UK, maybe rural roads have crazier drivers in the US than they do over here? But over here most rural country roads are not very fast and don't have much traffic. Actually there is a road near me that I sometimes cycle down which is 60 mph, single lane each way (unusual but some long, straight, main roads in rural areas can be 60 mph). And yeah, maybe that road is a bit unnerving, but it ain't that bad. Every car slows down just as they should and overtakes when they can. Do drivers want to be liable for killing you? No, I think they probably don't.
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>>1359207
>maybe rural roads have crazier drivers in the US than they do over here?
I've never been to the UK as I hate everything British with a passion as a result of having been ripped off by a seller in the UK years ago (I refuse to even take connecting flights through London), but I can say US rural drivers are pretty scary compared to any other Western country I've been to.

The other thing is rural road impacts are going to be faster, more violent, and a longer distance from any medical help compared to urban roads.
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>>1359200
Not worth it
>>
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Should I take the CCC pill? It looks too good tobe true. How long do these last?
I'm a big guy (90kg) and looking for a substitute after getting memed into buying a Charge Spoon which dissolved between my thunder thighs in a couple of months.
>>
>>1359250
>no-name saddle being sold by who the fuck knows on aliexpress
I own a lot of Chinese carbon but I would not buy that saddle.
>>
>>1359252
In the weightweenies forums you see them using such saddles all the time in their builds, even some expensive ones. That model in particular is sold by several sellers, this is the 2nd one with the most units sold.
>>
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Im having major problems with road calipers shimano 6400 single pivot going out of alignment after every ride.
I center them with a 14mm open end allen key and they work well but the more I use the brakes the more they move to the oposite side of where the cable pulls.

The small 2mm hex key that locks the side to side caliper movement seems to have no effect, is that locking mechanism kapput...is there a solution to this?

>>1358637
>>1358696
>google "color theory"

go with bright red.
>>
>>1358983
Take a picture of the brake arms from behind
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>>1359266
hol up
did you go full retard and literally buy -single pivot- calipers explicitly for a build?
or is that just based autism cleaning and restoration of a complete bike?
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>>1359250
Go to your LBS and sit on their saddle sizer thing. Ask if they have any takeoff saddles in that width.
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>>1359273
>or is that just based autism cleaning and restoration of a complete bike?

holding up, I have what came with the bike, the entire bike is tricolour 6400, itrying to fix it first before just throwing away and buying dual pivot at least for the front brake
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>>1359274
I tried but the lbs guy took me into a backroom and put on a glove and asked me to take off my pants and i think it could have been legit still but i got scared and made an excuse and left
>>
>>1359275
oh ok. That's not a bad idea anyway but you should be able to centre then fix the caliper firmly in place with the fixing bolt. If you can't i suspect it's missing a washer.
>>
>>1359277
>you should be able to centre then fix the caliper firmly in place with the fixing bolt

something is not right with that 2mm hex adjuster not the fixing bolt - fixing bolt is clamped as good as it gets but when I try to tighten the 2mm hex on side it has no effect.
>>
>>1359276
You can measure your sitbones at home
>>
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>>1359273
>>1359275
here is the place where the 2mm adjuster lies
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>>1359074
>>1359082
All the electrical tape I can find at my local stores is crap.
>>
>>1359301
3M Scotch(r) tape
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>>1359301
Get heat-shrink, king size for bus bars.
Literally best thing for bar wrapping, feels like fake leather, desu
>>
>>1359306
If only.
>>
redpill me on buying a timetrial bike and putting dropbars on it so it becomes a road bike with a cool frame
why don't people do that?
>>
>>1359321
Generally more expensive and less comfortable, plus if you get a solid wheel you get fucked by wind
>>
>>1359321
TT bikes have a much different geometry than road due to the TT/tri riding position pushing the rider forward to sit on the nose of the saddle.
>>
>>1359322
what do you mean less comfortable? position is adjustable I guess or is it too much stiffness?
>>
>>1359266
The bolt on the front of the caliper and the grub screw underneath adjust and lock the adjustment of tension on the arms and have nothing to do with centering, it's tension on the main mounting bolt that keeps the calipers fixed in position relative to the frame/fork and wheel. To center the caliper you hold it in the centered position with a thin open-ended wrench (13 or 14mm depending on model) using the pair of flats just behind the main spring while tightening the mounting bolt.
>>
>>1359330
addendum: on that particular model of caliper you may not have a pair of wrench flats, but in that case you just use a 14mm wrench on the notched bit behind the spring to hold the caliper in place while tightening the mounting bolt
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>>1359321
New TT bikes (ones worth a shit anyways) have completely integrated stems and handlebars, putting a regular stem on would look beyond retarded. The seat tubes are usually around 74-76* as opposed to the usual 72-73* on road bikes. The front center is also way longer on TT frames, it makes for pretty sluggish handling but it helps keep things stable when you have so much weight over the handlebars. Just get an aero road bike frame, it’ll be 97% as aerodynamic and ride 100% better.
>>
>>1359340
But I can get a good deal on a used triathlon bike.
>>
>>1359071
if you wrap it right so it goes with the direction your hands want to spin it around the bar it might be ok. but the gorilla tape I put over my grips (because they were falling apart) eventually-- like after a week or two--slid around and the hellacious adhesive got all over my hands.
plus it doesn't give any rattle-dampening.

gorilla tape is pretty expensive, I'm not sure how much better it would be over duct tape or something. but personally I'd be worrying about the adhesive getting on my hands from either type of tape
>>
>>1359343
Oh wow ok that changes everything, except it doesn’t. It will still be a stupid handling road bike that sucks.
>>
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>>1359270
Same on both sides.
>>
>>1358578
I need to change a brake cable in my 90's roadbike

what type of cable do I get? Are all brake cables the same on the lever-end? will just about anything fit? The bike is old and I dont know what brand the brake levers are. The rest of it has like 6-speed 105 including wheel hubs so i guess it was also ancient 105?
>>
>>1359371 cont
kind of look like this, but older. The routing also happens under the bartape
>>
are there any problems with riding a BB that's given up the ghost? My crank can creak left to right if you press it inwards (Aka the BB is ready for changing) but I dont ride this bike a lot at all, only a couple of km per month for commute
>>
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>>1359371
>>1359373
You will need a campagnolo inner cable, pic related

>>1359374
You're going to get way more tired than you should but you can keep it going
>>
Couple of questions:
Are there different diameters of stemp clamps, and what types of bikes are they common on?
Are there different diameters of handlebars (aside from the stem clamp area), and what types of bikes are they common on?
Are there different diameters of steering tube diameters, and what types of bikes are they common on?
Are there different diameters of seat posts, and what types of bikes are they common on?
Are there different diameters and lengths of axles, and what types of bikes are they common on?
Are there different diameters and lengths of bottom brackets, and what types of bikes are common on?

Basically I'm just very confused about what's standardized on bikes and what isn't.
>>
>>1359376
ok so rounded head not barrel head for the wire
>>
>>1359374
you're fighting extra friction within the BB with every pedal stroke and the play in the crank can give you weird shifting, but really, replacing a BB is cheap and easy so why on earth wouldn't you maintain it?
>>
>>1359377
Whenever something starts to become the standard some company throws a curveball with a new "standard"
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>>1359379
aha that explains partially why its hard to pedal with this one

>replacing a BB is cheap and easy

Well, I even have an unused new square taper BB.
But I don't know if it will fit this old bike. Are the BB diameters the same??
I have the tools to change it myself as well (I got everything for square taper)
>>
>>1359376
>>1359378
>>1359371
You don't need a "Campagnolo" cable - there is such a thing but it's specific to shift cables (they have a slightly smaller head than others), not brakes. The difference between the two kinds of brake cables is that there are 'road' brake cables where the barrel-shaped end is parallel to the cable and 'mountain' where the barrel is perpendicular - they're correctly identified in the picture.

>>1359377
The answer is yes, and the details vary. Take a look at the Sheldon Brown site, there are lists for all of those categories on there, here's one: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-handlebars.html
>>
>>1359321
TT would be like a top fuel dragster, meant to Sprint for short duration. Balls to the wall for a race.

Touring road bikes are for comfortable rides of countless miles, several times a week.
>>
>>1359380
All I remember is I've tried to buy a new seat and post for an older bike a few years ago and had enormous trouble finding the correct tube diameter, and I've been scared of upgrades ever since. There doesn't seem to be any way that even remotely ensures that things fit together.
>>
>>1359382
Thanks, that link is very useful.
>>
>>1359371
>>1359374
>>1359379
managed to find the model, 1020 hi-ten steel, giant speeder
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>>1359381
How old is the bike?

>>1359382
I've called them "campagnolo style" cables forever
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>>1359383
Time trials aren’t sprints
>>
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>>1359330
>The bolt on the front of the caliper and the grub screw underneath adjust and lock the adjustment of tension on the arms and have nothing to do with centering

I wasnt talking about grub screw, I adjust and center the caliper with a 14mm and it quickly goes out of alignment every time - Ive noticed that that small 2mm hex bolt on the grub screw jut before it enters the frame seems flimsy, is that the catch?
>>
Is a hardtail 27.5+ the right tool for comfy, leisure, weekend trail riding? I just sold my entry level 29er and want to upgrade. I do both flat fire roads and gnarly downhill (taken gently as I cannot risk getting injured for work) I strongly favor comfortability, plush ride, control and safety over speed. I figure 2.6"-2.8" tires offer cushion that my knees, ankles, and lower back, wrists will appreciate. Of course full suspension would even more so but $,$$$ puts it out of the question.

I hate dealing with people's used clapped out shit so Im looking at new. Also, never had a new bike.
>>
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>>1359330
>>1359266
>>1359273
this little 2mm bugger simply doesnt hold and brakes go quickly out of center
>>
>>1359387
>How old is the bike?
no idea, all it looks pretty much exactly like >>1359386, only a lot more beat up. Based on what I searched online, and that it has 6-speed 105, it could be all the way from 1980-1997. but its only a guess here
>>
>>1359386
That's definitely ISO threaded
Check the length of the BB, if your spare one has the same length, you're in luck.
>>
Has anyone here had issues with with the new 105 (R7000) front derailleur shifter? Problem is that it'll get stuck on the small ring and won't engage/go up to the big ring unless a small bit of plastic in the shifter is pushed as well. I've just spent an hour thinking it was cable tension or something on a new bike but after research there seems to be other people with this problem as well

Apologies for reddit but this is the best resource I found, has links to a youtube vid describing the problem in the comments, and his fix, people in the youtube comments have the problem as well

https://www.reddit.com/r/bikewrench/comments/aui2vl/shimano_105_r7000_ive_fixed_the_shifter_flawed/
>>
Moved to a new city and i know nothing about riding around city streets or even what type of bike to get.
I'm seeing decent looking road bikes within my price range ($100-200), but i don't know what I should look for if I go to check them out.
halp please
>>
>>1359413
Ride several bikes and see what feels good. Road bikes are out of your budget and are weird feeling to noobs. This board will suggest a mountain bike from the 90s. I would suggest any bike that has properly working brakes and shifts properly in all the years it has. Old mountain bikes have 26" tires. Newer ones will have 27.5" or 29". I would stay small for on road. Wide tires in the 2.2-2.4" range will be more comfortable.
>>
>>1359413
In your price range, you should be looking into used bikes. Go to /bbg/ instead of this thread
>>
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>>1359419
i bought a 90s road bike for $80 when i was 15 and it was a revelation after years of riding slow hardtails.
The dt shifters and drop bars didn't bother me at all.
It was just awesome and fast and really fun.

>>1359413
Post your craigslist and height and i'll make you some recs. It takes a discerning eye to tell what's good or not.
>>
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Did any company other than Klein ever make 26" mtb frames with track ends in a reasonable quantity? I want to build a fixed gear commuter meme and almost every Klein frame is overpriced. I know track ends aren't needed but it's what I'm looking for.
>>
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>>1359377
>stem clamp
Older flat bar bikes use 25.4mm, older road bikes use 26mm. Newer bikes in general use 31.8mm

>handlebars
Flat bars use 22.2, road bars use 23.8

>steerer tube
Old bikes use 1in, newer ones use 1⅛in. This one is probably the only universal standard

>seat posts
At least three sizes common -- Don't remember them.

>axles
Old road bikes used 126mm. 130mm is the new road standard, with 135mm on mountain bikes (I think). Things may get wider as we get more gears

> bottom brackets
BSA is the most common threading which comes in a few widths I think. For old frames you better hope there's specs online or some kind of identifying marks on the BB itself.
>>
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>>1359596
>This one is probably the only universal standard
Nope, pic related.
>>
>>1359593
>mtb
why? tyre clearance?
Even if what you're asking exists, you'd be more likely to find a used surly steamroller frameset than it or a klein like that.
They fit like 35s or something stupid and they're only ~$500 new.
>>
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>>1359382
campag does actually have its own meme brake cable head but they're interchangeable in my experience

>>1359377
>expecting to have a definitive understanding of bikes with one post
anon bikes are fucking stupid what are you doing
ask a specific question
>>
>>1359599
>ask a specific question
Why does it have to be so complicated?
>>
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>>1359600
>Why does it have to be so complicated?
it doesn't but it do
>>
>>1359596
This post brought to you by the year 1995. New standards have gone all to fuck.
>>
>>1358589
Wouldn't recommend either, I work at a warranty department of one largest bike stores in Europe.
>>
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>>1359395
It's the same length BB, so I am in luck, however:

the connecting head to the crankset is ROUND not square, so this is not a square taper crank? Pic related
>>
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>2 small finishing strips included
What does this mean?
>>
>>1359640
it means they give you a piece of tape to cover the holes around the levers if you do it the cringe way.
>>
>>1359641
>if you do it the cringe way.
What does this mean?
>>
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>>1359643
this

Instead do chad figure-of-8
>>
>>1359644
It looks cleaner with that part and without the figure eight, around the 8 min mark
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5MzIiv7pewE
>>
>>1359641
Why do they include separate strips for that? Do they think people don't own scissors?

>>1359644
>>1359645
Calvin Jones says he doesn't like the figure-of-8. And he still uses the finishing strips for it.
>>
What are pros and cons of shorter/longer cranks?
Why is crank lengh so little talked about?
It seems to be a fairly important measure.
>>
>>1359675
it literally doesnt matter at all
>>
>>1359598
>why?
In theory, for riding in snow and faster acceleration somewhere with lots of lights and short blocks. I don't have an actual reason though, just curious about availability since track ends look hot and I already have 2 road bikes.
>>
>>1359266
Personally I align mine by taking two 5mm Allen's, one in the front and one in the back, and then walking them together whichever way they need to move. And if you really want dual pivot tri color dual pivot exist. They came out when the grouoset got sti shifters, 8 speed, a rear derailuer cage redesign, and a hyoerglide cassette.
>>
What are these wings on the brake pads for?
>>
What would upgrading my rear mech from Alivio to Deore nett me?
>>
Alright boys, is this a scam? Im almost certain it is, it doesnt seem legit at all, but my greedy mind wants it to be true.

https://399hpcom2(.)online/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1
>>
>>1359726
I suggest your greedy ass order something and see what happens.
>>
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>>1359640
>>1359641
>>1359644
What if it means this bit here?
>>
>>1359723
Holding them
>>
>>1359736
Those strips aren't long or strong enough to finish a bartape with, gotta be electrical tape
>>
>>1359726
Not even clicking that shit
>>
>>1359738
What, like with your fingers? Your brake pads needs special hand holds? That's stupid.
>>
Is gravel riding for some sort of masochists/is it just a meme?
I'm new to cycling and I bought a decent gravel bike but while actually riding light forest trails and gravel it just felt like it was not meant for it.
At the end of it it started to fear to break my bike, it just kept bouncing around, vibrating and rattling.
>>
>>1359744
It makes toe-in easier.
>>
>>1359750
Gravel is primarily for weak leglets who aren’t able to push themselves hard enough on the road to feel the same level of exertion that they do underbiking on gravel roads.
>>
>>1359752
But at the cost of added weight!
>>
>>1359753
As a leglet, I can not deny this.
>>
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>>1359723
they're wheel/tire guides, they're meant to make it slightly faster to install the wheel.

>>1359724
slight weight savings

>>1359750
being comfortable on gravel gives you access to a lot of routes in scenic national forest or other undeveloped areas, and if you don't live somewhere scenic they still tend to be nicer places to ride with little car traffic
>>
>>1359750
I don't have first hand experience but to me it always seemed stupid to ride glorified road bikes with slightly wider grooved tires on gravel roads and light trails just because cyclocross faggots do it in grueling races. It's far too harsh and uncomfortable for relaxed touring, and being on that perfectly flat dirt road a gravel bike would excel on is an exception. For that sort of riding I'd build a lightweight hardtail hybrid bike with bullhorns and a lightweight suspension fork.

>>1359753
Some people just don't want to deal with the stress and terrors of riding in public road traffic, and not all of the world has magical deserted backroads going nowhere around the corner. Where I live roads connect places and people drive on them.
>>
>>1359758
>Some people just don't want to deal with the stress and terrors of riding in public road traffic, and not all of the world has magical deserted backroads going nowhere around the corner. Where I live roads connect places and people drive on them.
And yet they insist to ride on gravel on poorly suited bikes that rattle the fuck out of the entire body. I don't know what point you're trying to make.
>>
>>1359750
Gravel bikes are supposed to be a compromise between road bikes and MTBs. They're not as fast as a road bike, or as comfortable as a MTB, but they can get both jobs done.
Just put fatter tires on it and run lower pressures.
>>
1) How important is weight for road bikes if you're not racing but touring/traveling long distances? Let's say 10 vs 8 KG.

2) Roads are absolutely shit here and I happened to hit relatively deep pot hole hard while going fast (~~15CM deep) and punctured inner tube. That made me wonder - how fragile or strong are carbon forks? How often do they break or fracture?
>>
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I bought a frameset with a cut steerer tube. This is overlap of the stem on the steerer. Is this okay?
>>
>>1359783
If I were you I would try to find a shorter dust cap or whatever they're called. That steerer tube is shorter in the stem than I would want to ride.
>>
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>>1359785
Slam That Stem has short ones, but I feel like you're mostly paying $30 for the sticker that comes with it. My CAAD12 came with one stock that was really short, I tried searching really quick for the replacement part but couldn't find it, I am tired and lazy but hopefully this is useful advice.
>>
>>1359786
Yeah, think that'll be my only option. Should get the stem low enough that it's clamping enough of the steerer to be safe. Thanks
>>
>>1359750

i legitimately know people who won't have their CF road bikes touch dirt or even grass for fear that their bike will fall apart on them.

When they buy the gravel bike, it's basically the same construction as their CF bike but can go wider than 28mm+

But I do have to mention that i'm in california and more metropolitan to where there isn't many unpaved trails out here.
>>
>>1359806
I've been wanting a carbon bike, but i've been worried about this too. /n/ has taugth me to be paranoid about scratched carbon. Gravel riding will inevitably scratch up a frame by flying gravel.
>>
>>1359817
/n/ is a terrible place to learn about bicycles
>>
>>1359818
No better place.
>>
Tubeless seems paradoxical to me. The reason to go tubeless is to allow you to run lower tyre pressure, but the lower the tyre pressure the more increases the risk of burping the tyre.
>>
>>1359756
If all you're getting is slight weight savings between the component tiers then it makes no sense to me that there are so many tiers.
>>
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>>1359675
>Why is crank lengh so little talked about?
>>1359676
>it literally doesnt matter at all

difference between 170 and 175mm was quite dramatic on the mtb that had a huge Q factor - I felt like I was ripping my knees apart with 175 but it accelarate like crazy on the climbs, Im not sure how noticable would it be on my current road bike with a low Q factor
>>
>>1359847
When you switch crankarm lengths you're supposed to adjust your saddle height
>>
>>1359599
C is also Flying Pigeon style brake levers and I think BMX, too.
>>
>>1359639
uh, you can't see the square taper until you pull the cranks off the BB spindle. that is to say, the square part is jammed into the inside of the crank arms. not sure what you're trying to show in that pic.
>>
Why don't they make road bicycles with proportional wheels and wheelbases for tall people? Is it that much of a pain in the ass to stock multiple wheel sizes? Mountain bikes do it!
Just look how ugly these proportions look. It makes me feel terrible.
Also, are there any 190cm/6'5" guys who ride a 61cm touring road bike? Will I fuck up my back if I try?
>>
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>>1359868
Sorry but there's no market for freaks of nature. If you want bigger wheels than 700c, you gotta go custom.
>>
>>1359868
before 700c became the road standard, there was also the so-called 27 inch standard, which was larger. not to be confused with new MTB 27, which is smaller than 700c.
my 1987 Miyata roadie came with them, which is cool since I'm 6'3" and the frame is a 63. the proportions look fairly normal.
so, shop around for a mid-80s-or-earlier bike with 27" wheels, I guess.
>>
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>>1359869
Yeah, I saw the DirtySixer too. I bet that guy in the White shirt must be around 6'5" and Shaq's bike looks massive compared to even him.
>>1359873
Thank you. I didn't know about that. It looks like the 700 (ISO 622) is only 8mm smaller in diameter than the 27" (ISO 630).
I guess it's mainly the head tube length that bothers me. Hopefully in my next life I'll be average height.
>>
>>1359880
>>1359868
I think it just looks exaggerated on a vintage style frame with skinny tubes.
>>
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>>1359881
Someone needs to step up and make an 800mm standard wheel for tall people. If you want to sit up and relax and ride no hands for a little, your weight is almost centered over that back wheel. Not cool. It also reminds me of clowns riding those little tiny bikes with the small wheels.
The video from which my image is taken:
https://vimeo.com/156783829
A middle ground between these two would be perfect.
>>
>>1359868
looks fine to me bub, needs fenders and some racks tho.
>>
>>1359868
190 cm is 6'2.75" my dude. I'm 6'3" and ride a 58 cm frame.
>>
>>1359890
I have no idea how I missed that; thanks for catching it. 196cm is what I meant.
>>
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(I'm replying to a post from the last thread.)

>>1357096
>don't ride in a rain shell unless it's raining
>any that are actually waterproof will trap moisture and make you sweaty
>so you really want one that's -just- the waterproof bit, and not insulated at all
>so you can remove it and layer

>plus fit is so important imo you should buy from a shop you can try it on so basically recommending anything is pointless.
Does this mean I want something like this ( https://www.amazon.com/Santic-Cycling-Jersey-Bicycle-Windproof/dp/B01C5GLUUK ) instead of a showers pass jacket ( https://www.amazon.com/Showers-Pass-Scotchlite-Waterproof-Reflective/dp/B01D62TKWM ) that everyone else was talking about ?
>>
>>1359771
>1) How important is weight for road bikes if you're not racing but touring/traveling long distances? Let's say 10 vs 8 KG.

Any touring bike needs to balance weight with frame strength since they are built to hold baggage. Of course the lighter frame the easier the pushin'.

>2) Roads are absolutely shit here and I happened to hit relatively deep pot hole hard while going fast (~~15CM deep) and punctured inner tube. That made me wonder - how fragile or strong are carbon forks? How often do they break or fracture?

In general I'd say they are pretty strong. They are not particularly prone to failure. If there is a failure it is most likely to be a crack rather than a catastrophic break. There is a reason it is the standard on almost all road bikes and most high end gravel rides. Carbon forks provide exceptional damping and high strength while giving weight advantage.
>>
>>1359922
what you want is either a cycling or running jacket that is billed as water resistant, not water proof. That is pretty much the standard. FYI running jackets are half the price and look pretty much the same.
The showers pass one looks good- it has a breathable fabric despite billing itself as waterproof rather than water resistant.
>>
>>1359750
What tyres do you have on your bike? What pressure are they inflated to? How much do you weigh?

It's never going to be as perfectly smooth as a full susser but you should be ok on a lot of things.
>>
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>>1359922
Here's what I do anon.
Pic related is my windproof outer. It's very thin polyester, but it's not 'water resistant'.
It's for climbing. It whicks sweat WAY better than the 'water resistant' running/cycling jackets i've used in the past.
>>
>>1359883
You mean like this thing?
>>
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>>1359922
If it's actually raining, i wear my rain shell on top, pic related. It's a goretex equivalent. Rolls up very small. Both do actually fit in a jersey pocket, although not as well as a cycling/running jacket. They both layer well.

Neither have any insulation, which is good, because they pack small and I think unless there's snow on the ground, it's better to use mids/base layers to stay warm. So yes I would avoid that showers pass jacket unless you really like the visibility features, as it looks too thick. The cycling jacket is not a bad buy, but probably won't keep you dry for long in heavy rain, and won't breathe very well either. However it will pack small and be enough to put on if you're caught in a shower on a shorter commute. I wouldn't wear it, or anything water resistant and especially not water proof regularly in dry weather though.
>>
>>1359922
and yeah, again, the fit is just really important, especially if you want something more aero for cycling that still has enough movement to be comfortable.
Go to a -decent- outdoor retailer if you want something good that will last.
Unless you're just taking a chance on something cheap which definitely won't be properly waterproof, you really want to try clothes like this on.
With sales you might even spend less money in a shop
>>
>>1359922
Also consider that you can buy reflective stickers and stuff for stiff clothing like jackets and you can sew reflective things into stretchy material

I wouldn't be pidgeonholed by 'reflective' clothing especially if you want something decent for general use.
>>
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>>1359750
Do you know the maximum clearance for your frame? Try getting the biggest pair you can fit in.
If you want to go deep you could buy a pair of 650b wheels. Gives even more clearance and 650b + large tires gives a similar total diameter (and therefore handling) of 700c + medium tire
>>
>>1359873
> there was the 27in standard, not to be confused with 27in
> there's 29er, which is not 29in. It's the same as 700c, which is not 700mm. The C is meaningless.
> there's 27.5, which is not 27.5in. It's the same as 650b, which is not 650mm. The B is meaningless.
>there's 26, which is not 26in.

> road and mtb have different designations for the same thing
> literally none of the designations relate to the size of the rim -- the thing that you need to know about to find a tyre to fit around it.

Fucking destroy it all and start again.
>>
>>1359971
Now research seatposts
>>
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>>1358578
Subjectively, how much force is 42nm? I don't have a torque wrench, so I don't know if I've properly installed my Campagnolo® Power Torque™ cranks. I can hear a sort of tweety bird squeaking from around there when I test ride it, but maybe that's something else or it will go away on its own.
>>
>>1360005
This is a question that can't be reasonably answered, seeing as the answer is ...well ...subjective. What's a certain torque feels like to you depends on how strong you are and how long your torque arm is. This is something that you have to develope a feel for individually.
>>
>>1360005
>I can hear a sort of tweety bird squeaking from around there when I test ride it

did you lube your chain if it was new? did you try to fit a chain that was a tad stretched over the new cranks? If the latter take that old chain off and lube up a new one
>>
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>>1360012
Everything on the drive train is brand new including the pre-lubed chain. It sounds like it's coming from directly below me so that's why I suspect crank/BB issues. I can't recreate whatever load it creaks under off the bike.

>>1360010
Yeah it's a bit of a bad question to ask. It's torqued to the point where I'm having to really push, or use my weight to get more out of it. But the tool I have only has a 6in handle, whereas the things I've seen videos use are fuckhueg.

Another related question. Should there be this space between the washer (?) and the edge of the BB cup? Only used Ultra Torque before which was really easy. PT is more like PiTa.
>>
>>1360019
>pre-lubed chain

yeah put real lube on it, then wipe it down. then put it under load and see if it happens again.
>>
>>1360020
Factory-lubed chains always ran better than after the first time I re-lubed. I remember reading Based Sheldon say the stuff that comes with it is good stuff.

I've never had an issue with new chains like this before, and it's a very regular, rhythmic sound so I doubt it's the chain.
>>
>cycling noob
When commuting, what front gear should I use? The big one or the small one?
>>
>>1360020
factory lube is fucking great you retard not a meme at all
>hurf durf just rinse your new chain in solvent and put on some real mens oil

kys
>>
>>1360034
whichever one you feel comfortable spinning
although if you're right at the bottom of your cassette on the small ring it might be better to switch to the big ring to avoid crosschaning
>>
how long does the lube that comes from factory on new chains last?
>>
How often and when is it necessary to clean your bike? Like I washed mine about a week ago, including a full drivetrain degrease/regrease, but rode through some wet path and got tagged by sprinklers last night on my way home.
>>
>>1360041
>not lubricating the chain with your own sweat
fucing casul
>>
>>1360120
When it starts to be visibly or audibly noticeable
>>
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I'm half debating about buying a YBN Ti-Nitride 11-speed Black Chain to replace my Shimano chain.

There's nothing wrong with it but the black looks cool and would match my bike perfectly and since I also wax my chains having two chains would be beneficial.

Is there any benefit to this chain, aside from aesthetics, over the shimano?
>>
>>1360316
Stop flaming other threads with your dirty black chain
>>
>>1360059
Until it starts squeaking.

Chain lube is $5 a bottle, just squirt some on there if you're concerned.
>>
I'm currently running a 105 5600 groupset with 48/39 front and 12-25 rear. The chain and cassette needs to be replaced soon, but 12-25 and 12-27 cassettes are hard to come by and quite expensive.
Will my RD-5600 SS (short cage), which is officially capable of clearing only a 27 tooth sprocket, also work with a 12-28 cassette? Total capacity is not a problem, front shifting is only a 9 tooth difference.
>>
>>1360426
yes
>>
>>1360430
Thx, bro! That was quick.
>>
>>1360426
>48/39 front and 12-25 rear.

>22 gear combinations
>about 14 meaningfully distinct gear ratios

bruh
>>
>>1360435
>he thinks 5600 is 11 speed
spotted the mouth breather
>>
>>1360436
>13 different gears out of 20 possible
Much better.
>>
>>1360437
>he thinks every bike needs a gear range suitable for touring the Swiss Alps
spotted the autist on a triple
>>
>>1360440
>has a double that's effectively a single and bitches about people with triples
>>
>>1360443
I'm not the dude with a 48/39, he probably bought a bike with a 130 bcd crank and didn't need the 53t big ring it came with. Are you one of those types who likes bikes more than riding? They seem to have lots of advice to give about bikes, and it usually sucks.
>>
>>1360426
>48/39 front and 12-25 rear
>front shifting is only a 9 tooth difference
lord why

>cassettes are hard to come by and quite expensive
because no one in 2019 rides ratios like that

Consider upgrading your whole gear shift to 50-34 front 32-11 rear before buying a new casette.
>>
>>1360435
>>1360436
>>1360437
>>1360440
>>1360443
>>1360445
>>1360446
Oh, this didn't go well. It's a cyclocross specific crankset (Truvativ Elita cross) that came with the bike 10 years ago. It's 130 bcd, so I can't go lower than 39 and I am not willing to spend money on a new crank.
Regarding the cassette, I really came to like the close ratios it offers. Just went 130km over mellow, rolling terrain on Saturday and appreciate having 1 or 2 tooth jumps throughout the whole range, unlike the 11/11-34 abominations you often have today.
However, 39/25 as lowest gear really limits climbing, so I was hoping to alleviate that issue a little bit with a 12-28 cassette (provided that I don't have to get a new derailleur to make it work). Hence my question.
>>
I bought a pair of Tacx Bikebracket wall mounts without thinking about the fact that my bike has external cable routing. The rear brake cable under the top tube is slightly offset, but it'd still be in contact with the mounts and hold at least some of the weight of the bike. Is that a problem?
>>
>>1360440
actually a triplefag probably wouldn't be complaining about gear overlap as most triples tend to have a lot of gear overlap themselves because of ~10t gaps between rings like that anons setup as opposed to the 14-16 on most doubles.
>>
>>1360450
you got your answer lol
I think people just falsely assumed your gearing is totally deliberate.

Because yeah, if you had a smaller inner ring on your crank, you could run a tighter cassette and keep the same range. But it's $$
>just spend money bro
gets annoying.
>>
>>1360450
Not trying to be rude but seriously consider to upgrade, especially on a cyclocross.
I've ridden similar ratios on my 80's vintage road bike and going 50-34 32-11 was a huge step up.
Get a chink carbon crank off aliexpress.

>the 11/11-34 abominations
It's not an abomination, it's just a more capeable gear shift

>really limits climbing
yep

>>1360457
just be careful
>>
>>1360464
really wide cassettes do kind of suck for road riding
like it's definitely a worthy tradeoff if you're doing a lot of climbing, and a no brainer for most less serious riders, but close steps between gears can be pretty damn significant.

You're right that a compact would be a good upgrade but 1-200 $ isn't peanuts.
>>
>>1359849
>When you switch crankarm lengths you're supposed to adjust your saddle height

you dont say...switching to 175mm still felt totally different, I have no experience how would do change felt on low Q factor road bikes where pedaling is god-tier compared to mtb bikes, but I doubt Ill ever switch to 175, maybe 172.5, 170 has started to feel kind of small.
>>
>>1360463
>>1360464
Thanks again for the feedback. I'll probably buy a new bike next year anyway (that's why I don't want to upgrade the crank now), but I'm afraid the chain and cassette won't last till the end of the season. Slipping in some gears already. So I'll proceed as planned.
>>
>>1360464
50/34 x 11-32 is a great gearset for beginners, it’s what I put on the bike I built up for my mother.
>>
>>1360473
with 11spd it's a great gearset for anyone.
that's what a pro would ride on a climbing stage, except 52/36 because they're just fucking way stronger than you and drafting.

really anything tighter, at 11spd, is just for topographylets or tryhards.
>>
>>1360474
I have 52/36 x 11-30 on my race bike, it’s good for every kind of terrain in the Carolinas. I’ve got 53/39 x 11-25 on my TT bike, it’s good for any time trial courses that aren’t straight mountain climbs
>>
I have 52/36 x 12-25 11s, helps me attract women.
>>
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>>1360476
>>1360493
>52t incels

pretty pathetic not spinning 53t desu
>>
>>1360497
Goddamn she makes me want to immigrate if you know what I mean.
>>
>>1360497
One tooth on the chainring really doesn’t make any difference. I used to have 53/38 on my road bike and I honestly can’t tell much of any difference between that 52/36 now.
>>
What’s the cheapest gravel bike with hydraulic brakes and mounting points on the fork?
>>
>>1360609
gravel bikes suck
get an adventure bike
>>
>>1360614
adventure bikes suck
get a drop bar hybrid
>>
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>newbikefag
>after a couple months today take bike in for free tune-up that came with the purchase
>it could take up to 10 days if I'm unlucky
>>
>>1360628
This is why it is good to learn how to do bike maintenance yourself. Bicycles are fairly simple machines and there are tons of great YouTube videos that go into detail for every single job you will ever do.
>>
>>1360628
Serves you right for ignoring the n+1 rule.
>>
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>>1360630
>>1360631
At least it was FREE, right guys? Haha.
>>
>>1360628
ten fucking days?
is the shop staffed by geriatrics?
>>
>>1360628
They probably just have a backlog of stuff and are building the new season's bikes as well. Consider dropping it off later when they're less busy.
>>
Why would I want a stealth/flush axle over a quick release? Are they somehow more durable? Are quick release axels prone to coming loose with vibration? Are stealth axels easier or harder to align? The only scenario I really need to access my wheel for is repairing a flat, and I just don't get flats with my tires. Would it make sense for me to switch?
>>
What is the most practical way to carry, let's say 40l volume of luggage with you on a bike, backpack, paniers packs, handle bar bags etc.?
>>
>>1360704
I'm not sure what you mean by "stealth/flush" axle but I'm gonna assume you mean hex bolt or something similar. They're lighter than quick releases, they look cleaner, and they're not as easy to undo as a quick release, which somewhat works as a wheel theft deterrent. QRs can also get tangled with stuff and come undone (though this is extremely unlikely)
>>1360706
Front + rear panniers.
>>
>>1360628
"Tune up" as in twiddle the barrels on the derailleurs and maybe adjust some spokes? Not even worth the effort and gas to get the bike down there, free or not.

Buy a spoke wrench for $5 and learn to do this shit yourself. Being able to get the shifting perfect on your own whenever you want will make your life ten times better (but maybe practice the wheel truing business on an old bike first until you get the hang of it). Save the "free" adjustments for when shit's really fucked.
>>
Just ordered pic related. What color handlebar tape should I put on it?
>>
>>1360810
Whatever's cheapest/on hand
>>
>>1360810
https://supacaz.com/product/galaxy/
in the silver
>>
>>1360812
t. stylelet

>>1360814
But I'm not a 10 year old girl.
>>
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>>1360810
Go big or go home
Prizmatik Laser or Platinum
>>
>>1360816
Now we talkin
>>
>>1360810
Black Benotto tape with pink handlebar streamers.
>>
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>>1360810
>>
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>>1360810
oh my god you didn't get a fucking grey emonda did you?
the purple one is the coolest paintjob on any road bike atm
what the fug lad
>>
>>1360849
Ehhhh, the more I looked at the purple one the less I liked it.
>>
>>1360854
coward
>>
>>1358579
I already answered your question in the last thread you fucking retard, you're just asking again because you want someone to tell you to buy that cheap garbage

Just get the felco, nigger. It's 1000 times better than the chinkshit and it only costs $32.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Felco-C7-Cable-Cutter/dp/B0006229UQ/
>>
>>1358579
There is a time and a place for chinkshit tools and it's definitely not when you're cutting bike cables.
>>
>>1358947
Shops with QBP accounts can order you a wheel called the "Value HD", it's the perfect fit for your application. Costs $145, extremely durable wheel.
>>
>>1359100
just get a tailgate pad, don't be a pussy
>>
>>1360838
this needs to be on this >>1357402
>>
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>>1359125
luna cycles or bafang. hub motors have shit torque and generally low quality

really though, if you have a drinking problem, we're here to help. you can get your life back on track.
>>
>>1359134
chesters are a lot higher quality than crank in my experience. have warrantied a a lot of crank pedals at my shop and only one pair of chesters. not to mention chesters come in all those sweet colors.

for road pedals, the shimano plastic/"carbon" spd sl pedals are quite good. not stiff or atrong enough for big fat riders though. you clydes will need alu pedals
>>
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>>1359384
you'll have to measure unfortunately. I find that 90% of people who buy parts online buy something that doesn't fit. a good quality calipers made by mitutoyo, mahr, brown and sharpe, or starret is the minimum starting point for sizing bike components. for seatposts, you can measure the old one with the calipers. if you have none, you will need pic related to measure the inside of the frame tube.
>>
>>1359390
plus bikes are not popular among serious riders because they are heavy, slow, and clunky. in very wet or soft conditions they have some traction advantage. but in those conditions a 2.5" tire with cush core at 8 psi will be almost as grippy and a whole lot faster.

that trek is way overpriced at $1000. the sale taking it down to $850 just makes it fair for that level of bike. around that $1000 price range, consider a 27.5 fathom 2 or a 29er honzo. either of those will be way, way better off road than an entry level plus bike.
>>
>>1359593
electra makes 26" "clunker" bikes with track ends. based on the geometry, these would reasonably support commuting or could be pressed into service as a mountain bike.

the all city nature boy would be a great platform for a fixed gear commuter.

surly troll will also run fixed if you must have a 26" wheel

there are also plenty of older mtbs with long semi horizontal dropouts. these should work just fine for fixed gear conversion, no forkends necessary.
>>
>>1359821
modern TCS systems almost never burp any more. and the volume of the tire is high enough that losing a bit of air affects pressure very little.
the other benefit of tubeless is avoiding pinch flats, which is a serious advantage.
>>
>>1359868
you're actually in luck. xxl touring frames are cheap because there is less demand for them. I picked up a 65cm trek 720 from the late 80s for $100. it rides like a dream. get on Craigslist and look for anything with a tall headtube. do a lil test ride and you'll figure out right away if the bike is stiff enough.
>>
>>1359868
>Also, are there any 190cm/6'5" guys who ride a 61cm touring road bike? Will I fuck up my back if I try?

Keep in mind that a touring bike is going to have a high stack and lower reach than a standard road bike so a 61 that would fit 6ft1 to 6ft5 would still fit you.

you are kind of in between sizes in a non-modern touring bike. (probably best with a 63). At 190cm you are dead on perfect to fit a 61cm touring bike like the Fuji Touring, which never changes year to year, is stiff as fuck, and is currently on sale because it's the end of the bike model year.
>>
>>1360972
>Fuji Touring, which never changes year to year, is stiff as fuck, and is currently on sale because it's the end of the bike model year.
currently on sale because Fuji is bankrupt and the company that bought them out is liquidating the assets. otherwise, good advice
>>
I was going to order this BB which had about 8 hours left for me to get it by tomorrow with Amazon Prime.

But now because it's Prime Day, it's affecting their ability to deliver, and it won't arrive 'til Thursday.

To everybody in the UK buying Prime Day shit that you don't need: FUCK YOU.
>>
It seems proper old school 27 x 1 1/8 tires are hard to come by in mexico, at least where I've looked. Amazon has panaracers at 40ish bucks per tire.
Also thinking of getting a whatever kind of cheapo tire online, though I'm worried about punctures or cheapo feel, or not even fitting.

Any recommendations for 700c conversions?
Maybe some used complete pairs for 50-100 bucks from a new road bike, or build from scratch with 700c 36 holes chinesium...
>>
>>1361100
>it won't arrive 'til Thursday.
Oh noes! The horror of having to wait an entire day more!
>>
>>1361161
I ride 27x1¼ schwalbe Marathons. not "plus" or "supreme", just marathons with greenguard.
I found them no problem but I'm USA. if you currently ride 27x1⅛, they probably fit your frame?
not sure if that helps but worth looking for.
>>
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So I realised why I'm having shifting issues on my shitty '80s road bike.

It's got a Campagnolo rear 8-speed cassette. I bought some new cheap 8-speed shifters on eBay. But it turns out they're designed for Shimano, and Shimano 8-speed cassettes are 1.5mm narrower than Campag 8-speed cassettes.

So I need different shifters. Friction would work, because it avoids the issues of Shimano-indexing. Sunrace do some nice cheap shifters that I think would work, but for some reason there don't seem to be ANY British retailers that have them? Whereas tons of Americans retailers have them for very cheap (like $10), but most of them don't ship to the UK, and those that do seem to charge extortionate amounts (like £15 just for shipping).

I found one eBayer who is giving free shipping. So the total price is £15, not bad. But I have to wait possibly a month or slightly more than a month to receive them.

FUCK MY LIFE.
>>
>>1361316
JTek Shiftmate my friend
>>
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>>1361316
Looks like we've found another thing in need of an ISO-standard. At least there's that.
>>
>>1360883
Thanks a LOT. Those are actually the bikes I've been looking at instead. I don't even see used plus bikes, and on my MTB forum, they're uncommon for those reasons and then some.

I love the older 2017 Fathom 29 paint job. Blue green black it looks so fucking sick. The 2019s are whack. I want all red or zero cause red/ black is edgy as fuck I hate it. I love the soft pastel chill vibe colors of Santa Cruz, Kona, and Surly.
>>
>>1361324
Yeah I just found about that but they're like £35 ($44 USD, at least that's the amount in pounds I have to pay converted into dollars, they're probably cheaper for Americans to buy though).

Meanwhile I've found some cheap downtube friction shifters on eBay for like £10, which isn't that bad. This bike did originally have friction downtube shifters and I don't remember them being too annoying to use so I'll make do with them again. It definitely seems to be by far the cheapest solution to this problem.
>>
>>1360972
Thank you, I was actually looking at the Fuji touring bike... but I messed up my conversion and meant 195 or 196cm. Still right at the limit, I guess.
>>1360886
My issue is that the wheels look tiny in comparison with the frame; those larger frames just aren't proportional to more of a standard size.
>>1359944
36" is too big but I know that company has a 32" wheeled bike as well... that's closer. If only they made a road bike.
>>
>>1361161
can you get continental ultra sport in mexico? this is a very light and fast tire at a low price. but it has weak puncture resistance. I advise against the 700 conversion as it is usually not cost effective.
>>
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>>1361337
you're welcome, fren. It makes me happy to help people find a bike they will enjoy.

>I love the soft pastel chill vibe colors of Santa Cruz, Kona, and Surly.
pic related comes in a lovely matte green, and you might want the 27 5 fathom anyway because it has a proper trail geometry. the 29er fathom has outdated vintage XC geo and really doesn't ride as good as the 27.5. maybe your LBS has one to test ride
>>
>>1361371
Bro, I'm 6'6'' and pic related are my road(ish) bikes. The grey one has a 62cm frame, the white/lavender one has a 63cm frame. Doesn't look too bad, right? So please don't overthink things. You certainly don't need a 32" boutique bike or something like that. Just buy any regular bike with a 61-64cm frame size (possibly 63cm might be ideal) or a stack of at least 62cm for a comfortable fit.
>>
Shimano friction shifters will work with a Campagnolo rear cassette, won't they? Because it's friction, there's no indexing, it should work exactly the same.

Sure I'd love to have indexed shifters but Campag indexed shifters are expensive as FUCK. The cheapest brifters I could find were like £45 for the pair. And I couldn't really find any indexed downtube ones - they were all braze-on, and I need band-on. And they were fucking expensive anyway.

Why the FUCK doesn't my bike use a fucking Shimano hub and cassette when Shimano replacement cassettes and third-party compatible shifters are cheap as fuck. FUCK MY LIFE.
>>
>>1361428
yeah
you could also do bar end shifters
>>
>>1361428
and i really don't recommend shot old low tier campy ergos
they will literally slip gears under tension, it's unlike shimano.
>>
>>1361429
Bar-end shifters look like they're expensive as fuck too, like £80 or more. Campag retro stuff seems to be collectable and expensive, and also you don't have all these third parties making Campag-compatible stuff like you do with companies like Sunrace making Shimano-compatible stuff.

Which is another problem when it comes to my cassette. A couple of my sprockets are worn, I think, because the chain is skipping on them. I can get a new Miche cassette which is compatible (they're Italian and they make Campag-compatible stuff) but it's like £30. If I had a Shimano hub I could get a brand new Claris HG-50 (something like that) cassette for like £20 or £15 I think.

I think those Shimano friction shifters for £9 are the cheapest way I can solve my current Shimano-indexed shifter / Campag cassette problem, really. Also my rear derailleur (another replacement I bought years ago) is Shimano, clashing with my Campag cassette, but I don't think it matters at all if the shifter is friction.

>>1361430
Yeah I understand there's two different Campag standards or something and the first one was bad because the cable tension was too high or something. I dunno, it's all too damn confusing. I probably just need a new cheap bike. Maybe some cheap Decathlon Triban. Also I've realised if I was buying another second-hand retro road bike I'd try and get something from the '90s, rather than the '80s, and also something which uses Shimano. The tech on such a bike would be much more up to date and easier / cheaper to replace parts or upgrade them to newer versions.
>>
>>1361436
post a pic of your bike
>>
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>>1361438
I've posted it before in these threads, it cost me £100 I think back in 2010/2011. The bar tape wasn't my choice by the way, it came like that. I keep meaning to put some black tape on there.

There's so many fucking things wrong with it. Like I say two of the sprockets are fucked, I think, because the chain keeps slipping. And the bottom bracket is fucked too - I really should just buy a Shimano cartridge one, I think I've identified the right size (spindle size, cartridge size, threading, etc.) and it should fit.

Since this pic I've installed a front derailleur too. It did originally have one but I took it off to ride this bike as a single-speed for a while, but I'm in a hilly area now so I need gears again, and I don't know what happened to my old front derailleur. It was pretty seized and shitty though. Also I've already managed to break the new one slightly - there's a single bolt which holds the cage together and on mine it just pulled apart really easy, the bolt (and threading I guess) just pulled straight out. I've taped it up, seemed the cheapest way to try and fix it.
>>
>>1361086
>currently on sale because Fuji is bankrupt

Fuji is still making bikes. Their holding company went bankrupt.

What drove the company to bankruptcy was selling itself bikes on credit which somehow performancebike was unable to move.
>>
>>1361440
Your gears skip because your freewheel/chain are too worn out
>>
>>1361474
The chain is brand new. You think the freehub itself could be fucked? All the other gears work fine, even with high torque and pedalling forces, it's just a couple that don't. And they do visually look like they could be a little more worn.
>>
>>1361475
New chain + old freewheel = gear skip galore. The couple of gears that skip are probably the ones you (or the previous owner) used the most, and so are more worn out than the rest.
>>
>>1361475
He's confusing you. He thinks you have a freewheel, not a cassette. Freewheels are basically the old version of cassettes with the freehub built into them.

He means your cassette is probably fucked, like you were saying yourself.

Have you got like an 8spd campag cassette for some retarded reason?
It's like someone has dropped a fucked alfa romeo engine in an old daihatsu. Sorry about that lol.
>>
>>1361436
>Also I've realised if I was buying another second-hand retro road bike I'd try and get something from the '90s, rather than the '80s, and also something which uses Shimano.

ahahahhahah yeah
i feel your pain on this
the fucked part is that you're not even going to this effort for some really nice frame like campag is normally on. Someone has just put a spare campag wheel on some old shitter.

You've got to realize all of this bullshit is the fun stuff. Enjoy all this bullshit. All the skills you're picking up will transfer even if you never want to see another old bike in your life.
>>
>>1361481
>>1361490
>old freewheel
>He's confusing you. He thinks you have a freewheel, not a cassette
Right yeah I was getting confused. The rear wheel on this bike has a freehub and cassette, not a freewheel, because the wheels are from the '90s (yes the frame is from the early '80s but for some reason when I got this bike it had wheels from the '90s on it). In fact I only yesterday realised that this bike would have originally come with a 126mm width rear wheel with 6-speed gearing, while my rear wheel is 130mm 8-speed.

>Have you got like an 8spd campag cassette for some retarded reason?
Yes. Unfortunately. That's how the bike came. I wish it was a fucking Shimano hub because then I could buy a brand new Claris 8-speed cassette and they're pretty damn cheap, like £20 or possibly less from some places. And they come with much better and more modern gear ranges (e.g. you can get 11-28, 11-30, 11-32, and even 11-34, while my bike has 13-26, and even that seems like one of the widest ranges available for 8-speed Campag).

>It's like someone has dropped a fucked alfa romeo engine in an old daihatsu.
Maybe not quite like that, because this Raleigh did originally have a Campag groupset, but it would have been 6-speed instead of 8-speed.

But yeah I have been looking for new sprockets (the two that I think need replacing) as well as new cassettes, but full cassettes are kinda expensive. I could get a brand new Miche 8-speed cassette (e.g. pic related) which should be compatible but it'll cost me like £30 including shipping. I found one individual sprocket I need and it's like £8 including shipping, but I haven't found the other one, which is annoying.
>>
>>1361493
The frame is alright, it's a Raleigh Clubman from 1982, not in the best condition but it's not bad, and if it was in better condition it would be even nicer and more desirable. I've seen Clubmans in slightly better nick, and with original components, go for like £300 online. In top condition I'm sure it would be worth even more.

And also like I said above to the other posters, this bike did originally come with Campag - I looked it up and it would have been the Campag "980" groupset (pic related). But it was a 6-speed 126mm-width rear wheel hub, instead of the 130mm 8-speed rear wheel hub that I have.

>All the skills you're picking up will transfer even if you never want to see another old bike in your life.
I hope.
>>
>>1360511
it makes you more hardcore than 99% of cyclists
what else could you want?
>>
>>1361428
Yes. You could roll the cable on a piece of wood and it would also work. Friction shifters are incredibly simple.
>>
>>1360630
For new bikes, yes I agree. Completely. For retro bikes with all sorts of problems and obsolete, inferior components which in many cases can't be replaced due to lack of supply of replacement parts or incompatibility with the frame / other parts on the bike, maintenance is hell.
>>
>>1360810
Fluorescent yellow, obviously.
>>
>>1361508
that michte campag compatable 8 speed cassette looks like a much more reasonable alternative to a 160 dollar campy one. I'd get the 13-28 as it has the widest range.
>>
>>1360810
Something bright to counteract the grey bike.

Cinelli Red Zebra
Anytihng by Supacaz
you could also go Celeste/Chrysler Desert Turquoise
>>
>>1361940
Yup 13-28 is exactly what I would go for because like you say, it's the widest range. It's still fucking disappointing seeing as you can get a brand new Shimano Claris 8-speed cassette (for Shimano hubs, obviously) with ranges like 11-28, 11-30, 11-32, and even 11-34. But it's the best there is. My bike currently has 13-26 which is already one of the best ranges for Campag 8-speed, it seems, and 13-28 won't be a huge improvement, but welcome nonetheless.

And yeah, it fucking sucks how much old Campag stuff costs. Like, much of this old Campag shit is worn out and sometimes it's just a worse-engineered component to the Shimano equivalent. And yet Shimano parts cost way less. I guess because people collect Campag parts because they think "ooh Italian cycling, how romantic and artistic". What a load of bollocks.

E.g. look at pic related. At £35 (plus £5 shipping) those are the cheapest Campag downtube friction shifters I could find - many of them go up to £60, £70, £85, or more. And yet I bought those Shimano ones for just £9 with free shipping. Plus the Shimano ones are new old stock, with cables too, while the Campag ones are used, and without cables. The Shimano ones are compatible of course because it's just friction. Why does all this Campag shit cost so much? Because collectors like to jerk off to the fact that they have Campag shit on their bike? Fucking ridiculous.



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