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Cycling is a good thing. ITT we help rookies to get on the correct bike to make our cult bigger.
Newfags and Oldfags get in here!
Old thread:
>>1338093
>>
Sure, I'll start it off.

High wind factor (it's always at least 15mph one way or the other), otherwise dead-flat, paved 3 mile commute. No place to cover bike at work, WILL be exposed to the elements 8.5 hours a day 5 days a week. Heavy rain, sun, rain then sun, rain and sun at same time. South Florida things. Budget is flexible, but I assume the degree of exposure to elements means that there is a very limited life-span to any bike I choose so I think I should look at a $300 price range plus or minus $100. Will use this bike ONLY for commuting and since it's a light commute I don't care too much about comfort; just reliability.

Average height (5'9"). Well capable of doing standard maintenance, configuration, and repairs, but lazy and prefer not to too often (one-time adjustments are a-OK; every-week minor adjustments and every-month major adjustments beyond the basics not so much).

Appreciate whatever input you have. Prefer not to craigslist it but if that's what I gotta do then that's what I gotta do.
https://miami.craigslist.org/search/bia
>>
Continuing reminder that performance bikes bankruptcy clearances are going on right now.

There are some good deals wending their way through retail channels, mostly internet direct sellers. Usually no manufacturer warranty, but some have enough discount that you probably don't care.

CRC for example has a number of Marin deals on right now. More for the dirt eaters, but some deals wide tire disc road bikes and commuters as well.
>>
>>1351715
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/marin-larkspur-cs1-city-bike-2019/rp-prod186820

Near walmart prices. I'm thinking cheap as fuck. Sealed bottom bracket for extra weather resistance. You still should pack a tarp and throw it on, and add fenders..
>>
>>1351721
Good link. Would never have found it querying with the little knowledge I have. Still open to other ideas, but this is a much appreciated start.

Also, tarp's a good idea. Haven't bothered with my on-sale $80 Walmart bargain bin bike because I've been anticipating upgrading for far too long, but thanks for the reminder that there are simple steps I can take if I actually care about my bike.
>>
>>1351722
Generally make sure to get a bike with fenders.
Also grab some lights off aliexpress to be able to ride in the dark.
The linked bike is a good pick if you can put fenders on.

Also check for used city bikes in CL. You can get decent ones for ~$200. Take a look which ones you like and link em here
>>
>>1351722
I'd take that new bike at 240 than my chances on craigslist for 200. It's too bad that they're sold out of 8 speeds.
>>
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Would you buy this 2016 ALR for $500?
>>
>>1352274
No, it's too traditional.
It does not have discs and it has Look pedals which I'd swap for spd's. It also has 23mm tires, I'd go for 25mm or better 28mm for less rolling resistance.
In case you don't care about the points above it's an ok deal.
>>
>>1352274
>>1352294
In case you don't care about the points above, you're objectively wrong.
>>
£800-£1000 budget - 2nd hand or clearance bikes
Looking for endurance road riding, may in the future want ability to use panniers.

Ideally hydraulic discs (preference from MTB riding)

>Cube Attain
>Cube Agree
>Giant Defy
>Cannondale CAAD12

what else should I be looking for?
>>
>>1352274
Yes that is a good price. >>1352294 sounds kind of clueless. Tires will wear out eventually. You already know what pedals you need. Rim brakes aren't holding anyone back in normal road cycling.
>>
>>1352331
norco section A is pretty sweet, got cable brakes tho, but mounts for evertyhing and is pretty capable. much better bike than my caadx and its new for under a grand. threaded BB too
>>
I'm used to riding on thrift store bikes and am thinking maybe I'll upgrade for this upcoming semester. I'd like to spend no more than $300, but maybe $400 if things go well or I can get a significantly better bike.
My daily commute would be 1.5 miles x2 on city streets. I might want to take it on paved park trails as well.
Any suggestions? I'd like to sit upright. I hate hunching over
>>
>>1352337
a good used bike
post craigslist and height
>>
>>1352352
https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/d/bicycles/search/bia
6'
>>
>>1352337
Check the larkspur mentioned earlier.
>>
>>1352558
https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/bik/d/pittsburgh-trek-700-multitrack-new/6906826657.html
this is lucky. perfect comfy commuter if you want something very good. lots of money into upgrading it and solid base

https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/bik/d/grove-city-breezer-thunder-drop-bar-mtb/6902627377.html
another very nice new build on a high quality classic frame. This one might ride a bit racier though, and you'd be more stretched out on it. But it's got an even higher-spec frame

I'd take some cash to check out both of those and if you like how they ride, haggle on the spot. You'll get a better deal that way. They're both very nice bikes in great condition.
>>
>>1352558
buy a Israel Cycling Academy jersey for stealing the Squirrel Hill KOMs
>>
>>1352708
Thanks, bro. I'll look into them.
>>1352782
Good idea
>>
I do not know much about bikes at all aside from a few youtube videos I watched so bare with me. Looking to buy a bike I can ride around my neighbourhood not necessarily on only trails or roads. Went to a local bike shop and I have a choice between the Devinci Milano 2019 and the Trek Marlin 5. My price range is around 500-600 CAD let me know if you know of any alternatives as well.
>>
>>1352952
>Devinci Milano 2019
seems pretty decent
get this
>>
>>1351002
I'm looking for a new road/commuter bike. I don't really care about weight or anything fancy, I just want something that isn't complete shit and won't break/have a lot of problems.
Any recommendations? Does $400 sound like a reasonable budget for a cheap but reliable commuter bike?
And where should I look to buy? Walmart? Small local bike shops? The last bike I bought was from a Sports Authority and they don't exist anymore...

Thanks
>>
>>1353428
>Does $400 sound like a reasonable budget for a cheap but reliable commuter bike?
Oof. Maybe used.
If you want drop bars and a new bike have a look at the Decathlon Triban Disc RC 500. It's $700 and propably the best value in this field. You'd have to put on fenders though.

There are cheaper ones like the Fuji Sportif 2.5 for $500 bit with worse features
https://www.performancebike.com/fuji-bikes-2018-sportif-2.5-road-bike-red-black-54cm-1181474954/p920374?v=916401

Other than that have a look at city/trekking bikes with straight bars. They usually come with fenders and aren't as expensive. (for some reason road bikes cost like $200 more than an equally equipped bike of a different type)
>>
>>1353428
CRC has Marin Nicasos on clearance for $499. Excellent value. They still have stock for people who aren't big guys.
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/marin-nicasio-road-bike-2019/rp-prod186819

Walmart and other department store bikes are universally shit.
>>
I’m 6’ 4”. What bike do I buy? Is there a good source for people who want to buy a good bike to just ride around trails around my house for fun and maybe start commuting
>>
$90. What's the catch?
>>
Would 400$ for a decade old Scott speedster s20 be a good buy.
>>
>>1353964
It's on the high side, but not completely nuts.

>>1353473
There's quite a few bikes made your size. The KHS flite 747 for example comes in sizes suited for NBA power forwards. Measure inseam and check craigslist, although there's a good chance it will be empty.
>>
>>1353962
None. That's pretty much what it's worth if everything works.
>>
>>1353962
Saddle looks garbage, tire, tubes and brake pads will probably need replacement within the next months (rubber tends to rot after a few years). Brake cables and housing will also need replacement if they're old.

Also old brake calipers and wheels usually suck in comparision to modern standards.

>>1354081
is right, there is no special catch, old ten speed bikes are juste not worth much.
>>
>>1353962
the catch is that it's worth $50
>>
what bmx should I buy?
>>
>>1354115
You shouldn't
>>
>https://www.skatehut.co.uk/brands/mafiabike/mafiabike_kush2_complete_bmx_gradient.htm

>https://www.skatehut.co.uk/bikes/bmx/venom_20_complete_bmx_red.htm

are either of these okay bikes just starting out doing bmx? what about used bikes?

>>1354124
why? I want to do tricks
>>
Is it cheaper to buy a new bike or build one , i have all the tools needed
>>
I'm not a total rookie bike buyer when it comes to buying for myself, but I am looking to help my wife purchase a bike. She is looking for more of city bike or beach cruiser, i.e. something where the seating position is very upright with swept back bars and a step-thru frame.

My main question is how in the world do you size these bikes appropriately? She's fairly tall for a woman (5'9"), so I expect frames that fit her criteria and her height aren't going to be terribly easy to come by.
>>
>>1354129
You will need to measure her crotch.

>>1354128
New.
>>
>>1354129
It's actually fairly easy. I blame the trannies.

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/marin-san-anselmo-ds2-city-bike-2019/rp-prod186806
>>
>>1354128
If you are an experienced rider - one who knows what matters ( to you and to actual riding ) and what does not, it is cheaper to make a bike from scratch.
>>
>>1354129
3spd Linus Mixte
>>
>>1354136
It's cheapest to restore and slightly modify a used bike

it's definitely not cheaper to put together a modern road or mtb or touring bike with new parts and a new frame, than to buy something complete
>>
>>1354136
I've priced it out and I can't see to get past the shimano tax. It's always been cheaper for ,me to buy say, a bikes direct complete, and swap shit out.
>>
>>1354140
It's probably not even like you can't get what you want though is it lol, more like special snowflake syndrome or >muh computer legoz
>>
Let's say I want to go electric bike, am I better buying a new one, or retool my old one (it's a cheap bike, mind you) with something like pic related? Or by going DIY if it's cheaper/more efficient?
I suppose motorizing the front wheel is less efficient than something being manufactured to be an e-bike from the get go, but I can't justify paying like 1500-2000$. I want to motorize it only for the hot summer days so I can travel effortlessly to my work. I can't join the mornings work meetings in suit while in sweat, after all.
>>
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>>1354148
no m8 no
Both wheels
>>
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>>1354150
Well, I guess it indeed would be more efficient (what about the weight though?), but I fear it wouldn't by accepted in my country. We have very tough regulations, and a bike too "powerful" can be classified as a moped bike, as dumb as it may be.
>>
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>>1354148
>I suppose motorizing the front wheel is less efficient than something being manufactured to be an e-bike from the get go
Hub motors are pretty efficient, more efficient that geared mid-drive.
Front traction wheel has couple advantages, like ability to drive in icy conditions without having rear slipping, simplicity (no need to deal with gears, chains etc.) and pretty powerful regen braking (only if you buy direct drive wheel).
Disadvantages: it will affect handling, since it is pretty heavy rotating thing.

Most expensive part of the build is battery. You are better making one yourself. Cheap hoverboard batteries are trash.
>>1354150
I wish I had second motor wheel. More powah, more better.
>>
>>1354182
>that
than*
>>
>>1354182
Well, the wheel I linked comes with this battery https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0XgXLuXQGtc
I don't speak spic or whatever language that is, but what is interesting to me is it seems to be using a bunch of 18650 batteries, so it's easily replaceable when they're at the end of their life, or I can even replace them right away with my good juicy NCR18650B. I mean, even fucking Tesla cars use like 7000 of them on the car floor.
>>
>>1354193
I have never dealt with neat stuff like this, only rat nest wiring and halal batteries, so I don't know.
Idea looks good to me, but what about range? Isn't it too small?
>>
>>1354205
From what I can read, range isn't very long, maybe +25km when using it alongside your legs, or like 12km using electric only @25km/h. Depends on the road and your weight, of course.
For the intended use I'll have (legs+battery, and mostly occasionally when the weather is hot, or when I'm very late for work), it'll be sufficient. I'm not asking for much. It's just to commute, after all.
It also looks like on the latest version there's an extension port to plug in an additional battery on the regular battery
https://www.elecycles.com/imortor-2-0-battery-line.html
https://www.elecycles.com/24v-bottle-battery.html
So even though it's a neat all-in-one solution, it seems easily moddable as well (making it a less tidy though, but that's expected). More expensive as well, but i guess it could easily be used to add in a custom battery using 18650 Cells
>>
>>1354211
>legs+battery
Nobody uses pedal assist.
Everyone tries it, and keeps it turned off, since using battery only is much more convenient.
>>
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>>1354138
especially if his wife is a qtp2t artho or aspires to that lifestyle
>flat-chested
>wearing a t-shirt that says les petites victoires
i'll never stop loving that
>>
>>1354139
>It's cheapest to restore and slightly modify a used bike

Yes, but that was not the question.

>>1354139
>it's definitely not cheaper to put together a modern road or mtb or touring bike with new parts and a new frame, than to buy something complete

No. Because - first, you are implicitly thinking that you are putting togather a bike of similar spec as the complete bike. In such case there is no going around the fact that big brands have big discounts.

But - since you can pick/choose from compatible parts, you can hunt for discounted stuff from previous years or buy used parts.

But, then even if you were to buy all parts seperately vs complete. With a complete bike you get a package deal and some parts are bound to not fit you well.

Imagine getting an uber-bike and it turns out that the carbon stem-bar combo is too short/wide/narrow/whatever. Now you either need to swap it - which means buy new with no guarantee that you will sell the replaced part. The more such details are there, the more costs ramp up.

That is why I said - for an experienced rider - it is usually cheaper to build. Unless you, by some wonder, get what you want out of the box from a given brand.
>>
>>1354140
By building from parts, you get to hunt for discounts and to pick and choose what you want and what to skimp on. Unless a given complete bike has all the things you desire - then buying it and then replacing half of the stuff quickly gets expensive - both time and parts wise.
>>
What am I looking to evaluate when I test ride a bike? I'm looking at the gravel meme bikes, and having test ridden a couple, I realized I'm not even sure if there's really much of a difference between that and road bikes. Coming from your classic 54 cm square 1980s road bike, the Cdale Synapse Sora Disc and the Trek Checkpoint just felt like road bikes with tall front ends. Maybe the Synapse had a bit twitchier steering, which combined with the tall front end made it rather awkward at slower speed, and the Trek had quite a bit of reach built into the geo. But what has changed in the 40 years since my bike was built? There's a little less road buzz, bumps are a bit more muted, and the frames are a lot stiffer under power. Can I or should I evaluate bike choices based simply on frame features, like how the Checkpoint can take front racks and comes with dual piston cable brakes, whereas the C'dale Topstone Sora doesn't fit racks on the front, has single piston brakes, but fits huge tires (Up to 45c vs up to 38c on the Checkpoint)?

I'll be going back to the store to make a final decision between the Topstone and the Checkpoint. I remember another anon mentioning how the Topstone felt more like an offroad bike, which is evident looking at the build kit and geo numbers, but I wonder how they'll feel from the saddle. Would it be possible for the bike shop to take the wheelset from the Checkpoint and use the axles from the Topstone to create an even stage for the two bikes to be compared? Both are 12x100/12x145 TAs.
>>
i sell stuff online and the postal service has nerfed most mailboxes so that they collect mail earlier in the day which will affect the delivery time on some of my orders. there's a better mailbox 1.5 km away which i think is a bit long to walk every day so i'm thinking about getting a bike of some sort.

now my question is if i should be looking at an e-bike at all? i would only be interested in one that doesn't count as a moped in my country so that i wouldn't need license and registration and a helmet. so it's limited to a 250 watt motor, it can only be engaged while pedaling, and it can't help above 25 km/h. i used to be /fit/ as fuck and i think i can get back into shape, and these regulations seem pretty weak, so i suppose i should look at a regular road/sport bike instead of an e-bike?
>>
>>1354425
It's 1.5 km away, not 15 km. Any bicycle shaped object would do.
>>
>>1354425
Walking 1.5km daily? Carrying packages 1.5km daily? Really depends on the size of the orders you deliver
>>
>>1354470
yeah but the craigslist and facebook listings are cancer and i wouldn't know what to buy brand new without getting ripped off. i could probably get away with deducting it as a business expense so stretching to a $500+ autismo bike would maybe not be the end of the world after taxes.

>>1354478
they weigh very little and would take up a large backback at most. regardless it adds up to 3km (back and forth). it would probably take more than 30 mins to walk, compared to 5 mins to the nearest mailbox. i'm not concerned so much about the physical exertion but more so the amount of time spent (maybe i'm in a bad mood and just want to get it over with) and the amount of time i'm exposed to insufferable hot or freezing cold weather.
>>
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>>1354425
>in my country
death to all 'im my country' posters
just fucking say it you dumb cunt
where are you from?
>>
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>>1354538
but now i will just get memed on
>>
>>1354540
no you won't, most posters here are purely in admiration of scandi cycle infrastructure and culture

and personally i like ruben ostlund and bergman too much to meme on swedes
>>
>>1354365
Most of road bikes differences are marketing, so you propably can't feel much.
Get whatever bike you like. I personally don't like the wider gravel drop bars so much so I'd go for a roadbike with tire clearance up to 38mm so I can put gravel meme tires on while having a road bar.
>But what has changed in the 40 years since my bike was built?
Disc brakes, saddles that don't give you immediate prostate cancer and lighter bikes.
>>
>>1354365
>What am I looking to evaluate when I test ride a bike?
If it does what you want it to do and if you like riding it. The Checkpoint AL is arguably a joke as a grabble bike, as it can only fit up to 38c tires, while the ALR and SL can get up to 45c, which will be nice if you do routes that have big chunky stuff. It all depends on what you call "gravel," I guess.

The aluminum Topstone is pretty laid back and I wasn't very stoked about its climbing capabilities, and it was way too buzzy on the gravel ride I took it on. My steel Rivenmeme Romulus with 28s feels more comfy on the same course than the Topstone with 40c tires did. I think that's why the Topstone Carbon is a totally different beast with a leaf spring rear suspension and more aggressive geo. Unfortuantely there's a ton proprietary bullshit going on. Meanwhile, the alloy Topstone has nothing proprietary going on at all, which makes me think that cdale was rushing to have a credible entry in the gravel category after the Slate flopped, and to found a generic frame in some Taiwan manufacturer's catalog and threw some shit on it. That being the case, you might be able to save some money by getting a Diamondback Haanjo, Norco Search, Fuji Jari, Bianchi Nirone Allroad, some Marin or another, or go steel with a Masi CXGR or an All Shitty Faggot Unicorn or whatever they call it now.
>>
>>1354425
>if i should be looking at an e-bike at all?
No. Not unless you're American spurdo out of shape.
>>
>>1354148
motorizing the front wheel is the cheep way
but FWD can be a problem up hill due t low traction
>>
>>1354283
This may be the case.
>>
>>1354340
>first, you are implicitly thinking that you are putting togather a bike of similar spec as the complete bike. In such case there is no going around the fact that big brands have big discounts.

ok so what you're saying is that it is cheaper to buy a complete new bike, than 'build' an equivelant new bike?

But that a fat slow bikeshop boomer retard can nigger together some cool dorky slow ride with his parts bin for less?

sure
>>
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is this decent for £40? dont know much about bmx?
>>
Recommendations for towpath riding? I think i need a hybrd bike right? Ground can be gravel/rocky/tree roots.

Total commute is 10 miles with around half being towpaths.

Looking to spend around £500 (flexbile)
>>
>>1351002
Im looking for a road bike to use as a commuter. I already have a mid 90's mtb that I'm using right now but wouldn't mind something a little more nimble and sporty. I would like to be able to spend under 300 if possible, any suggestions? this is my craigslist btw

https://vancouver.craigslist.org/d/bicycles/search/van/bia
>>
>>1354606
Economies of scale are the general rule with bikes- cheaper to buy complete bike.

But if you already have something....say a frame or a high end crankset or something then it can be even/less.
>>
>>1354558
I've been speccing gravel bikes that are cheapish.

Best I've found

Fuji Jari
Diamondback Haanjo
Marin Four Corners or
Marin Nicasio
Salsa Vaya

Really it comes down to whether you want a road bike with wide tires and places to put bags or whether you want something similar to a MTB that is super upright but has drop bars.

I think the roadie-gravel ones are more fun but I live in the midwest where gravel is flat and wide. If I lived in a place with more difficult gravel I'd probably want a Marin 4 corners or a salsa vaya.

The Marin 4 corners is intriguing because it has a sora triple for touring and the big ring is 50 so you aren't just buying a super slow road bike.
>>
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>>1355142
>>1354365 here, I went full autismo and compared the build kits of many different bikes. Full autism hidden behind frozen pane. Scoring them up, the Trek and Cannondale were the highest scoring in the under $1500 maplebux category. Knowing my typical riding is going to be road, and that the option of having gravel-lite capability is nice, I'll probably end up with the Checkpoint. The ALR is a nicer frame for sure, but it's an extra $700 for ugly Tiagra hydro shifters. We won't see the nice Tiagra hydro shifters until next year (ST-4720), but I can't wait that long, I've been rendered bikeless and prime riding season is now. Also, I think I'd prefer cable brakes for now just for the simplicity.
>>
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>>1355149
>dougscores for bikes
hmmm this could have potential
>>
>>1355134
how talla re you?
>>
>>1351002

Alright, here we go, try and help me find a bike if you can, here are my autismo specifications:

-need a bike for general commute, everyday, no need to be rainproof

-need a large frame because im 6'2 and obese

-commute is 80% road, 20% grass

-i have enough power in my legs to make do with wider tyres, no need for racer wheels, however my commute is not flat, lots of uphill/downhill

-im experienced enough with bikes, i am able to tinker/repair if need be

-heard good things about hybrids/90's mtb's on here, but what am I looking for? Specific brands? Frames? Brakes?

-just assume lowest possible budget, Im a poor fag, and also im bitter because i had expensive bike in the past and it got stolen :(

Thanks in advance n bros
>>
>>1355543
Also, to be more specific on the budget, anything under $200, the cheaper the better, obviously im not expecting a superior speed machine, just a workhorse, im willing to buy and replace the cheaper parts of the bike

Pic is my last bike, someone broke into my shed and took it :(
>>
>>1355547
Craigslist. If it comes out empty, there's some commuters in the CRC sale mentioned earlier.
>>
I’m 6’4”, 200lbs, athletic. I want to spend around 500 CAD on a bike. I could see myself spending more than 500 CAD.

Im a /lit/ immigrant, I know little about bikes. I have only ever purchased a bike from SportChek
>>
>>1355582
Right now it would be fucking stupid to get used instead of a Nicaso from CRC, unless you're tall.
>>
>>1355589
>500-600 CAD
get an aluminum framed, carbon front fork road bike with at least "Claris" level of components. You save 250 CAD not buying a name brand and getting it off the internet.

I suggest a Vitus Razor Claris with rim brakes. It is 607 CAD. One of the best bang for the buck. Of course you could get a more upright bike and cruise slower but if you want the cheapest way to gofast while comfy Vitus is a good choice.

There are many good bikes to get used but that is a good one to get if you want to get a new one.
>>
>>1355543
90s-00s mountainbike without suspension from Trek, Specialized, or GT. Preferably in steel.
>>
>>1355589
Check your online bike stores for good deals and discounted bikes. Post if you found something you like.
Like for the size chart of the specific bike to make sure it fits you.

Vitus Razor
Marin Nicasio
Cube attain disc
Triban RC500
>>
>>1355774
*see the size chart
>>
Any decent prized roand endurance bike with good components, 105 Shimano set, and hyd. disc brakes, that will allow you to mount at least 33mm tires?

Gravel bikes are overprized.
>>
>>1355795
Isn't that every 105 disc all-road/endurance bike with R7020 brakes/shifters?
>>
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>>1355795
only acceptable answer to this question:
Triban RC520
Has 105, semi hydro discs and tire clearance up to 38mm.
I have it and love it.
But the 11 speed is kinda too much, I'd prefer a 9 speed.
>>
Has anyone here ridden/got an opinion on GT bikes? My gf is looking at a GT Grade Alloy Expert for her commute/winter road bike - the commute has a short bit of hardpack/gravel/mud+roots, but is otherwise all on road. Other options are the Cube Nuroad, Croix de Fer 20, Liv Avail SL2 disk.

Budget is <£1000 as it's on cycle to work scheme.
>>
>>1355819
Hows her toilet?
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>>1355819
see
>>1355817
>>
>>1355817
>But the 11 speed is kinda too much, I'd prefer a 9 speed.
What, so you dislike how tight the spacing between gears is?
Just get a wider cassette.
>>
>>1355827
Depends on the individual use case.
If you are in a mostly flat area, a fine gear stepping is important to get the cadence right.
Here are hills everywhere though so I find myself shifting all the time. The fine stepping is more annoying than helpful for me. But it's just a minor issue.
I'm just saying that more cogs aren't always the better choice for everyone.
>>
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Wanting to get babby's first road bike, thoughts on a Jamis Comp Quest? Seems like a pretty good deal given they are $1K new and this one's barely been touched.
https://cincinnati.craigslist.org/bik/d/cincinnati-new-jamis-quest-comp/6921486865.html
>>
>>1355866
I wouldn't drop 450$ on a used CL bike without discs and without warranity.
Add 100$ and get a new one online with warranity.
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>>1355891
how does the warranty help? if something breaks won't they say it's your fault that you broke it?
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>>1355897
It helps BD sell BSOs with fake mixed groupsets so noobs can think it's physically possible to get a brand new 105 bike for $600
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>>1355866
Ask Jamis directly on how big a tire this heap will allow and if you can fit like say, 32mm tyres with mudguards it'd make a fine commuter/touring-bike. If you're actually looking something to go hard and fast with then lolno.
>>
>>1355940
>32mm plus mudguards
>that bike
Just cilck on the thumbnail.
>>
Is a Trek 7300 worth $200? Will it be a good starter bike?
>>
>>1355952
Fair market value depends entirely on the local market, but
>front suspension
>suspension seatpost
I suspect you can do better
>>
>>1355290
5'10
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>>1356100
you want a 56 or a 58 then

https://vancouver.craigslist.org/van/bik/d/richmond-nishiki-europa-tri/6913126042.html
here's your best option. Shimano 600 tricolour is really nice top of the line stuff. Tange 1 is also top of the line steel tubing. Nice nitto stem. Proper fast old race bike. And I think the beat up black paint looks very cool. Might need some work. Perfect size too.

https://vancouver.craigslist.org/van/bik/d/richmond-nishiki-international/6926857509.html
https://vancouver.craigslist.org/van/bik/d/richmond-norco-avanti-sl/6912876523.html
ok options if above sells but seriously go buy the nikishi.
>>
>>1355819
GT bikes have been quality for decades. their triple triangle design is a bit dated for hard mountain bike use but for commuter bikes it works out great.

Every woman I know who rides a Liv loves it and the avail is their comfy true road bike.

Unless she plans on doing long sections on assed out gravel for miles and miles I would get a dedicated road bike, not a gravel memester like the Cube.

The Croix is a high end steel bike so it will weigh 5 lbs more than the Liv. It is also super relaxed position wise so it will be the comfiest as well as the slowest.

Fastest bike: Liv
All around but slows you down with huge tires: GT and Cube
Slowest, comfiest, highest headtube, heaviest but high end steel: Croix
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>>1356142
also I don't know if you know it or not but out of all those the Liv is the only one that is female specific. Not a big deal if she is a long legged, long arm woman but most women prefer the Liv fit rather than unisex fit unless the bike has a super sloping top tube.
>>
>>1355952
Offer the dumb boomer $45
>>
How about this Trek 7.1 FX that's 5 years old for $200?

He says it has a few minor scuffs - this is the only picture he put up of it. I might offer him $170.
>>
Absolute beginner here, haven't been on a bike in ten or more years but I'd like to get into mountain biking. What should I be wary of when going to a bike shop in order to not get scammed into buying a shit bike.
>>
>>1355941
Nigger you can't know the tire clearance based ln on the side profile. There are many elements to this bike that indicate a greater possibility for larger clearance like
>adventure-esque name
>steel frame
>tall relaxed geometry
>triple crankset
>rack and mudguard eyelets.
>>
>>1356254
Looks pretty much brand new, but from what I can see it has low tier components. Decent price.
>>
>>1356266
Entry-level mountain bikes are real shitty. Too many features for the price point. Buy used or previous year clearout models.
>>
>>1356142

Yeah I was thinking the same - it's like 400m on quite packed gravel, then 50m on mud, the rest is all on tarmac - worst case can just hop off and walk for the 50m if it gets super bad in the winter. She only weighs like 50kg so should be fine on like 32s on a road bike anyway, and would be much better for longer rides in the winter as well.

Other than the Avail other options are now:
Cannondale Synapse Disc in 105 or Tiagra flavours (women's)
Cube Nuroad WS
Saracen Hack 2 women's

These are all women specific - she has longish legs for her height but shorter arms, so should fit better.
Probably not the Saracen as it's a bit to far down the gravel/adventure route. The Cube is also more gravel orientated as well, which leaves the Cannondale and Liv. Given the Cannondale Tiagra is nearly £200 cheaper than the Liv, I think I know what I'll recommend... unless the hydro brakes on the Liv are worth the difference over whatever mechanical disks are on the Cannondale
>>
>>1356280
8/9spd with hydros can be bretty gud
>>
Should I cop?
Rare crank forward Giant revive
>>
>>1351002
whats the use case for a single speed?

https://lexington.craigslist.org/bik/d/versailles-scattante-56cm-single-speed/6923159164.html
>>
>>1356289
case cheap beater that you don't trip about getting stolen and don't have much to break on it
>>
>>1356289
it's a hipster thing
>>
>>1356289
It's good if you live at a single elevation and cycle on a single terrain
>>
Barely used Scott Scale 980 2018 for 800 bucks?
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>>1351002
So I'm going to be moving to Boulder, Colorado for college and was wondering what kind of bike I should get? Bike theft is super high there so I don't want to drop a lot of dough there, but I would also like the option to take the bike on the forest/mountain trails there. Anyone have any reccs and general stuff to avoid theft other than to just lock your shit up?
>>
>>1356492
Two bikes. A town beater (single speed gas pipe crap) and a real bike that never gets locked up unattended.
>>
>>1356496
Do sizes for bikes really matter for anything specific or is that more for the size of the rider?
>>
>>1356500
I don't understand the question
>>
>>1356502
Can't post pictures from this IP but take this for instance
amazon /dp/B018NVRCBM
what do the sizes mean?
>>
>>1356506
Bike sizing on amazon isn't going to end well. Buying a bike on amazon is not a good idea. Just buy something used on craigslist.

To answer your question the numbers in frame sizing traditionally mean the size of the seat tube in centimeters. But a wider array of possible geometries have invalidated that assumption, many bike manufacturers have gone with S/M/L sizing, and the current fashion is to measure "stack and reach" which is considered a better, more versatile representation of the frame size in practice (there are some nitpicks with this as well which are not worth getting into).

Also, cheap bikes are aimed at casual riders and will usually recommend a size based on your inseam (based on the local bike shop premise of "if you can stand over it, it fits")
>>
>>1356513
Alright, thanks for the information, anon!
>>
>>1356103
thanks :)
>>
>>1356506
the measurement is in cm but they are all pretty standard for road bikes. your model all sizes smaller than 55cm are in stock. 55 or 56 cm is usually considered a Medium/Large.

Most bikes sold on amazon have the original sizing from the seller. so according to 6ku's website a 55cm is for riders 5'8 to 5'11.

this grouchy guy >>1356513 is being too negative. buying on amazon is no different than buying from any other bike place online. Know your size and double check the other websites to make sure the model is priced right.

While 250 dollars is a great price for a fun aluminum shitter track/fixie with a flip flop hub, be sure to check out Raleigh. the Preston is 224 and the Carlton is 284 through their corporate portal (just sign up).

Personally I'd rather ride the Carlton because it is steel. Aluminum bikes need a carbon fork or they are too buzzy.
>>
>>1356492
>>1356506
Definately don't get that chinkshit gas pipe fixie off amazon lol. Your used market is fantastic, it's a college town, you'd be crazy to buy new.

If you want a fixie, you can have your pick of high quality barely ridden ones. Which will ride WAY better. Surly Steamroller, Kilo TT, Bianchi Pista, go look at what those cost new, and the Lemond has a REALLY nice frame:

https://boulder.craigslist.org/bik/d/broomfield-mens-bianchi-pista-single/6917022834.html
https://boulder.craigslist.org/bik/d/westminster-56cm-mercier-kilo-tt-pro/6895149260.html
https://boulder.craigslist.org/bik/d/boulder-surly-steamroller-single-speed/6906593121.html
https://boulder.craigslist.org/bik/d/lyons-lemond-zurich-fixed-gear-bike/6895973737.html
https://boulder.craigslist.org/bik/d/louisville-windsor-clockwork-single/6919648258.html

Or, you've got some fantastic high quality old road bike options. These below are all really top shelf stuff, this is probably what i would do:

https://boulder.craigslist.org/bik/d/eastlake-fuji-team-roadbike-54cm-with/6919605593.html
https://boulder.craigslist.org/bik/d/boulder-tuned-pink-small-54cm-ironman/6918260810.html
https://boulder.craigslist.org/bik/d/boulder-vintage-lemond-tourmalet/6904126683.html

Or, if you want something a bit better for exploring gravel and forest trails and stuff, and all the bikes above can do that too, just wider tyres make it easier, get a rigid 90s mtb. Lots of great options for those too. Also more suited to slow comfy commuting and putting a rack and stuff on. like these:

https://boulder.craigslist.org/bik/d/lafayette-specialized-rock-hopper/6925783865.html
https://boulder.craigslist.org/bik/d/boulder-bianchi-commuter-bike-tuned-up/6887758107.html
https://boulder.craigslist.org/bik/d/boulder-trek-820-hybrid-commuter-bike/6926886036.html


Also yeah, size matters. Above won't all fit you.
>>
>>1356589
This is super in depth and thanks for pulling those up, to be perfectly honest I didn't bother checking Boulder's craigslist, only my local. I had figured with everyone else moving in that everything would have been snatched up already.
From those links and googling around for size, it looks like my options are:

That blue lymond and the windsor for fixed
None of the inbetweens fitting
And then the bianchi + boulder trek being a maybe since size isn't listed.

This is of course assuming I'm getting the correct sizing information from google, saying that the 54cm for those intermediates are too small for me at 6'1"/185cm. Again thanks a ton, Anon, super informative post.

>>1356584
Thanks to you too, Anon. Though whats a carbon fork? The thing holding onto the spokes is what it looks like on google. I'm assuming I'd need to attach it to the frame and tires
>>
>>1356492
Euro OP here. You lucky fuck, been to Boulder once and I love it.
Make sure to get some food in that roof top live club restaurant... and smoke some of that umpa lumpa weed.

As recommended, get a nice MTB + a cheap city bitch where you don't bother if it gets stolen.
>>
>>1356665
>Though whats a carbon fork?
Nothing you need to worry about as a beginner
>>
>>1356589
Yeah, that's a pretty ridiculous craigslist selection.
>>
>>1356665
no worries bro
it was just a quick look too
make a post when you're actually in a position to buy something in boulder and i'll make some recs if im lurking.

and yeah, for a road bike you probably want a 58 or a 60 or a 20/22" mtb although sizes are often listed wrong and eyeballing helps when you know what they look like.

I'm jealous at your options lol, you'll be able to get something great for sure.
>>
>>1356665
>Thanks to you too, Anon. Though whats a carbon fork? The thing holding onto the spokes is what it looks like on google. I'm assuming I'd need to attach it to the frame and tires

A carbon fork is the front part of the bike that attaches to the 'quick release skewer' which goes through the front hub (the center part of the wheel the spokes are attached to). The top goes into the headtube and goes upward finishing at a point where your "stem" clamps on to. You probably don't need to worry about it unless you buy a newish aluminum road bike- it will need a carbon front fork.

You mentioned that you are in Denver/Boulder Metro area. That is pretty much the epicenter of biking in the USA. go on craigslist and ride what you like and listen to the anons here they have great wisdom in picking out CL corn from CL poop.

>>1356665
>6'1"/185cm

You are a size 58cm-61cm, depending on how long your arms are. Old school bikes fit differently and you'll be on the big side of that range. If you just walk into a cannondale or trek store and say gib bike they'll probably fit you for a 58.

What size dress shirt do you wear (in the sleeves?). Would you describe yourself as having long legs or short legs in relation to your torso & arms?

You live in colorado under no circumstances buy a fixie. Get a bike with at least 2x8 gears (16 total).
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>>1355817
I had to look this one up, but what the fuck? How are they offering 105 at $900 USD?
>>
So buying a rockrider 520 is a big nono right?
>>
Would buying an old aluminum road bike (Vitus 979) be a huge mistake?
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>>1357024
The bottom bracket moves about 2 cm when I clip in. God knows how far it's moving when under power. Classic road bike geometry, beautiful frames, but made of soft metal. Lightweight for its time. 126 mm OLD rears, but will easily spread for 130 mm. Buy one if you have interest in the history of these bikes, but you're really better off buying something like lugged carbon (Vitus Carbone, Spesh Allez Carbon) or early Cannondale aluminium if you want something cool but still performing good.

t. 979 owner.
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>>1357035
How much do you weigh?
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>>1354661
pretty good deal for what it is. Go for it. It looks fun
>>
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>>1357024
>as a cheap cool beater and a fun project
sure
>to do serious miles on or put money into
no

Cannondales and Kleins and stuff with oversized tubing are where it's at for classic alum imo. And as always, steel is real.
>>
>>1357037
160 lb, 5'10" 32" inseam, riding a 54 with 100 mm stem. Beware the seatpost is a strange 25.0 size, and front derailleurs must be clamped on at I forgot what size, but not the common ones you can find these days. You'll need to find one that fits, or shim it up.
>>
>>1357047
even this abomination ?
>>
>>1357024
>Would buying an old aluminum road bike (Vitus 979) be a huge mistake?

https://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f2/vitus-nos-fork-22044.html

>>1357090
I would look for a canny without the alumimeme fork, yuck. I think most of their road forks were steel. their frames all rule. stiff as fuck in a good way imho
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>>1356760
>rockrider 520
It's elastomer fork is wal mart tier. You should never, ever consider riding that offroad, and on road, you have better, cheaper options.
>>
>>1356748
Because it's not really 105 other than the shifters
>>
>>1356748
>>1357165
Both derailers + brake levers, shift levers and lever bar mounts are 105.
Who cares if the hubs, cranks and cogs are 105?
Brakes aren't 105 but TRP HY/RD instead which cost 150€ alone.
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>>1357183
>Both derailers + brake levers, shift levers and lever bar mounts are 105.
Brake levers and shift levers are the same component. Also they are cable 105, which is MUCH cheaper
>Who cares if the hubs, cranks and cogs are 105?
The person paying for it will care.
>Brakes aren't 105 but TRP HY/RD instead which cost 150€ alone.
Yes I have them; why anyone would put Hy/Rds on a new bike for reasons other than "I got a good deal" is beyond me. They must be trying to clear out old stock.
>>
Why does everyone here like anal bikes so much?
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>>1357220
Can you just make a thread about your anuses/prostates/asses preoccupation, and spend the next 8 hours autistically bumping that one with your toddler-tier posts? I'm going outside for a bit and this is a good time for you to shit up /n/ and get this out of your system since I won't be looking
>>
>>1357224
I'm 50/50 on whether it's actually an bitter wierdo or if it's just a regular poster who is trolling with a persona
>>
>>1357233
>his tiny brain cannot fathom there are people who actually don't like riding on a dildo shaped ''saddle''
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>>1357233
He's just a friendless virgin trying to become an anonymous internet celebrity by pushing a meme, "fringie" didn't catch on so he's trying "anal" now. Just ignore and move on.
>>
>>1357220
i'm not a bikefag i just came here because i have no idea of what to buy. i don't want an uncomfortable saddle that will make me impotent. what should i look for in a saddle?
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>>1357267
Width adequate to your sitbones and proper posture
>>
>>1357183
>>1357165
The point is that they're offering 105 components, at least important ones, at a price level where most people have Sora or even Tiagra at best. And that's without giving you some BikesDirect looking thing.
>>
>>1357092
>>1357024
I would add, this link is true. You do have to worry about separation of the main tubes from the lugs in high stress areas. The fork is also rather soft. Mine hasn't come apart, but I did bend it slightly in a low speed bump with a solid object. Now I have toe over lap. Luckily for me, there's a guy who specializes in 979 repair in my city.
>>
>>1355819
gt grade 105 alloy is one of my favorite bikes, just all around great bike. I have run 32c nobby tires for mtb trail use, fits fine. the TRP hydraulic by cable brales are fantastic! on road with high volume 28 tires, the ride is surprisingly smooth considering the stiffness of the frame. the stock mid compact with wide range cassette again, perfect for hitting steeper roads and trails... especially since the only con is the bikes weight. with nobby tires bottles and saddle bag, its above 30lbs!

about to sell my 55cm if interested, out in Southern California 91786. (want to try Ridley X-trail on the 650b's and have run out of space for bikes!)
>>
>>1357090
those shortened rear triangle Cannondales are still as hell! great project frames to build up, working on my third 90's Cannondale build now. you can fit modern gears out back and the frames just look clean. finding them without dents is a pain though (just snagged a fully functional r500 for 125, after I sell off all the shifty and spinny bits the buy will break even)
>>
>>1357267
go to a bike shop and they should have a little seat pad thing that will measure what size you need, when finally got fitted and switched out to a 155mm wide saddle it changed my ride completely!
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>>1357294
last time i went to a shop to get fitted the guy dimmed the lights and shone some lazers at my knees and then he turned on a smoke machine for the lazers and he had all these graphs that i didn't understand and he started asking me what size things would fit up my butt and i got really uncomfortable and then he cut it short and charged me $300 and my bike still isn't comfortable to ride
>>
>>1357298
does your dad also work for nintendo
>>
>>1357298
> he skipped the butt test
it's like you want to lose
>>
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which one of these is better value? I can't really see the reason for buying the surly but my friend who is a web developer and very technical says it is a better deal in the long turn
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>>1357280
Full Tiagra > full Sora >>> 105 brifters/derailleurs + crap everything else
>>
>>1357410
Your friend is correct. It's the same as buying a $300 laptop vs. $1k laptop, the $300 shitter will start failing soon enough and you'll end up wasting more money fixing it, while the 1k one keeps going strong
>>
>>1357411
Explain yourself, assuming the following: Shimano derailleurs, shifters, and cassette. Third party (FSA, Praxis) crankset, chain (KMC). The cassette design I know is pretty major. I imagine chains would make some difference. The crankset, does it really?

I would also note that the Triban has a non-series Shimano RS510 boat anchor for a crankset.
>>
>>1357415
>The crankset, does it really?
Yes, very much so. It's one of the most expensive parts of a groupset for a reason. The BB system is also very important and makes a huge difference.
Also you forgot the brakes. Also VERY important.
>>
>>1357418
>It's one of the most expensive parts of a groupset for a reason
What reason would that be though? Front ring shift performance? Understandable. Weight? Yes. Stiffness? They're all pretty stiff by my count, these days.

>The BB system is also very important and makes a huge difference.
Short of paying hundreds of dollars for some fancy oil lubricated ceramic ball bearings, what exactly are you expecting here? Considering the crankset is the most expensive part, the bottom bracket must be the cheapest if even a Dura Ace BB is $50 or so.

>Also you forgot the brakes.
In the context of disc brake systems, hardly any bikes spec Shimano series cable brakes though they do exist. You'd be right about hydraulic systems, but you don't have much choice anyways. I'd agree with you about rim brakes, especially with higher tier group brakes being rather nicer than Tiagra and lower.
>>
>>1357424
I don't think Shimano even offers a 105 BB
>>
>>1357437
Why wouldn't they? They even offer a Sora one.

https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/shimano105-r7000/SM-BBR60.html

https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/sora-r3000/BB-RS500.html
>>
Are "adventure bikes" a meme. Thinking of getting a fuji jari. Used to ride a hardtail mtb before it got stolen from me at knife point. Figured I get the benefits of a roadbike but can go off road.
>>
>>1357440
A minor meme. They are, at the end of the day, an endurance road bike with space for up to 40c or so tires. Imagine riding your hard tail with the front locked out, seated on the saddle, on whatever trails you'd like. Some are more road oriented, some are more gravel oriented with suspension gimmicks. At some point, your off road excursion would be better off with a rigid or hardtail 29er with more of a touring focus. But for the decently groomed gravel, forest, or fire road, the adventure bike offers you a faster way to ride that path, while also being sprightly enough to not be a big drag on the road.

The aspect of these bikes that gets them to sell is the do-it-all aspect. If you're casual, that's ok, because the geometry is more upright (not by much), and you can fit all manner of fenders, racks, and big cushy tires. If you're really in to the gravel riding thing, it's a whole category of bikes made for your use.
>>
>>1357424
I guess you answered yourself. These things may not be too important to you, but they are to someone else. The original point of discussion was a "what's the catch?" kind of question, so yeah, there you go.
By the way, the bike comes with a Microshift cassette, not Shimano (which is not necessarily a bad thing, I've heard good things about Microshift. Probably just heavier).
>>
>>1357440
"Adventure bikes" are just road bikes with wider tire clearances and fender/rack mounts, as all road bikes should be like. The only meme is buying a racing road bike when you're not racing.
>>
>>1357493
Or maybe I don't want to carry 35 pounds of groceries up to fucking Bear Mountain?

Commuting is not "touring" either but somehow nobody objects when someone buys a "touring bike" and does something other than literally bike touring with it.

But for some reason the word "racing" triggers people.
>>
>>1357495
>But for some reason the word "racing" triggers people
People fear what they do not understand
>>
>>1357495
>Or maybe I don't want to carry 35 pounds of groceries up to fucking Bear Mountain?
Then don't? You won't go any slower from having fender and rack mounts, there's no reason not to have them.
>>
>>1357509
I won't go any slower from a bike that weighs over 10 pounds more and has fenders and a rack on it. Got it. Cool, I'll just throw out my road bike then and use my city clunker for everything. Thanks for the great advice.
>>
>>1357413
But it's $1,700 can't I buy like new tires and stuff as it breaks? It's a $1,400 difference I could buy 6 Schwinn's for 1 straggler
>>
>>1357518
Nice strawman but nobody said anything about weight, we're talking about mounts and clearances
>>
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>>1357410
Neither are the apex of value. Surlys are expensive in their market segment. And the Schwinn is excessively cheap.

$5-800 is the sweet spot for value.

Anything much cheaper, like the schwinn will:
a: have a very cheapy made frameset that is heavy and too stiff, so upgrading will always be polishing a turd
b: have excessively cheap parts that will break

But beyond $800 you're mostly paying from performance, not reliability. And an entry level frameset with a chromoly steel or carbon fork, doable at that price point, will ride comfortably and be relatively light and at that point your choice of tyres matters more for ride quality than any further upgrades to the rest of the bike.

It's basically 8,9,10 or 11 speed, not 7 speed
and a chromoly steel or carbon(composite) fork, not an 'alloy' or 'hiten' steel one.

I would suggest pic related. That IS suited to upgrading over time. And it has a chromoly frameset like surlys. You could even tour on it.
>>
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>>1357537
you go marginally slower from numerous small concessions and a pure road bike which is totally focused on being svelte and fast is a quite beautiful thing.

I'd also argue that a frameset with rack mounts should be reinforced in areas to ride well with atleast a light load.
And that a bike with wide tyre clearances should be geared lower to deal with slower unsealed roads.
And that a bike suited for riding on rougher roads and with loads should have stronger, heavier wheels which will survive those things.

All that will affect an experienced fast road rider.

>>1357493
>as all road bikes should be like.
You know some people can afford several bikes so they don't all need to be the same.
>>
>>1357410
and if you want to spend $300, or less, if you live in a big city you can likely get something very good on craigslist
if you're interested in that we can make some recs.
>>
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>>1357537
the irony here is that touring cyclists generally understand road marginal gains nonsense just as well as roadies because when you're suffering up hills with a loaded bike you start considering stuff like cutting the handle off your tooth brush
>>
>>1357418
Cranks have one purpose: do nothing
If you find cheaper cranks that do nothing you can call it a deal

>>1357411
[citation needed]
>>
>>1357537
Were talking about "every bike ever should have mount points for a rack and fenders". I have those on my commuter bike, you know what I did? I put a rack and fenders on it. Because that's the reason I chose the bike. I wanted something that could have a stable rack and xbox huge fenders.

You know where I don't have a rack and fenders? On my light carbon road bike. Which I bought for riding without groceries. Because weirdly enough when I'm on long weekend rides I'm not interested in whether I can also carry a week's supply of arugula.

Also I don't think you know what a strawman is.
>>
>>1357629
arugula doesn't keep for a week
>>
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Yo dawgs, I've recently been looking into gravel bikes, budget ~€2000.
I'm 6'6'' (rather short legs, but long torso and arms, think orang utang), 260lbs, so the bike needs to be sturdy and available in X or XX large frame sizes (at least 62cm stack probably).

Must haves:
-100/142 Through axles
- Hydraulic direct mount disc brakes
- BSA threaded BB
- Clearance for min. 700 x 38C, the more the better
- 2 x 11 105 or Ultegra groupset

Nice to haves:
- Integrated cable routing
- Fender mounts
- Classic geometry (non-sloping top tube)
- Sub-compact crankset (48/32 or 44/30)
- Nice color (pls no black)
- If alloy, carbon fork

My current favorite is the 2019 Fuji Jari 1.1 in 61cm (pic related), but it's sold out in Germany. And I'm afraid they will change the color for 2020, that would make me sad.
All ideas appreciated! Thanks in advance.
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>>1357659
>260lbs

Buy steel. Fork included.

I suggest:

https://www.genesisbikes.co.uk/bike/croix-de-fer-30
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>>1357689
The XL only got a 58cm seat tube. Not sure how to feel about this. 63cm stack though.

Maybe rather the Surly Midnight Special? At least that one has got a nice non-sloping top tube. But mechanical discs and 650B. However available in 64cm. Maybe I'd have to buy it as a frameset and buy the parts I want, which would however make it hard to stay below the €2000.
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>>1357701
63cm of stack is huge. I'm 6'3" and look for 57-58cm of stack on the frames I buy
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>>1357704
Yeah, sure, it's enough but with a 58cm seat tube I'd basically have more than 20cm of visible seat tube. Not sure whether my sense for aesthetics will allow that. Currently riding 62 and 63 cm frames with classic geo.
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>>1357704
>>1357705
>>1357689
direct-to-manufacturers try to cheat and not make a true XXL bike. this is what they did here. Marin did this with their 4 corners too, which is a shame. I don't want to live in a world where 580mm of seat tube is the largest size.
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>>1357659
Cannondale Topstone 105, deal with the toptube, and repaint the frame or hope for new colours in 2020 model.

Norco Section or Search in appropriate frame material, colour, and price. Replace 50/34 crank with smaller rings or crank.

Non-sloping top tube is hard to find, most are trying to expose the seatpost for more flex.
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Any Italians here? What's a good site to buy online?
>>
https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/bik/d/pittsburgh-raleigh-passage-50-hybrid/6928918541.html
Is this good deal
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>>1357659
Soma Wolverine v4 type A
https://www.somafab.com/archives/product/wolverine-typea

Only frame with almost everything you want that exists imho, except top tube has a slight slope. Surly midnight is the other.
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>>1357569
Thank you, that bike looks awesome
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>>1357802
Not him, but at what point would it be better to build up something like the Soma? If I figure the frameset is $1000, the 105 R7020 groupset's another $900, a wheel set about $500, and other componentry another $500 or so, is $3000 maple bux (about 2300 usd) the point where you'd typically consider building up your own frame instead of going for hydroformed taiwanese aluminum/Reynolds 520/entry level carbon frames? This is assuming you don't need whatever gimmicks fancy carbon frames might offer, and instead go for whatever gimmicks small production steel frames offer.
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>>1357801
Fuck no, that shit is Walmart-tier
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>>1357844
I think generally a stock bike is better than building up from a frame unless you get a shop discount or can build your own wheels or you are okay with older generation parts. Without serious knowledge a build from frame can cost a ton a noob will need tools and make mistakes

However if you have strange needs or preferences, it can be worth doing. If you are 6'7 your options are immediately limited. I have done a few and it's fun but frustrating at times. Custom built wheels can last forever without needing truing
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>>1357865
Like I said, not the big guy 4me looking for the bike originally, just bringing it up based on your recommendation. Kind of silly how Soma doesn't offer a colour matched steel fork for that bke.

I do have my own tools, and do know how to put a bicycle together. Given that it takes about $2000-2500 maple bux to get an alloy bike with carbon fork, 105 components, and tubeless ready wheels, it doesn't seem like much of a stretch to me to build up your own steel frame. Steel is real, right? That frame set, a suitable fork, the 105 R7020, a wheelset from Hunt, and finishing kit, seems like a good bike to me?
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>>1357884
I agree and you'll probably love it more. My only warning is to know what you want or be ready to retape bars 3 times, wait weeks for a single bolt, realize you don't $200 on crankset that needs new rings, bought an ugly rack, etc. Has been known to happen
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>>1357884
My case in point...
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>>1357884
>Optional Matching Fork: Unicrown straight blade 15mm thru-axle fork with cage bosses (1-1/8”)

Nowhere on the site though afaik
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>>1357892
It's there, under parts or some such. Unicrown type-A wolverine fork, in red, clearly to match the old Wolverine.
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>>1357701
>>1357704
>>1357705

Trend goes towards "compact" frames with a non horizontal top tube. These have a shorter seat tube due to different general geometry.
You have to check the manufacturers size table to see what frame size is for what human size.
62cm seat tube for 196cm humans applies only for traditional frames.

>20cm visible seat post
yep, not a fan of that either and I have the biggest frame size of the bike line. My seat tube is 53cm and the frame is rated for 190 - 200cm riders.
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tall seatpost and long stem looks awesome wtf are u guys on about
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>>1357751
Thanks a lot for pointing my attention to the Cannondale Topstone. Looks nice, through axles, flat mount discs, enough stack. Might even be tempted to check out the Sora model for €999, not sure about the mechanical disks though. Regarding the Norco bikes you recommended, they're not available in Germany (and pressfit, right?).
>>1357802
Awesome frameset. But too expensive to build, I figure €2500-3000 for a nice build that would do justice to that frame.

So the priciest option (A) would be building a Surly Midnight Special for about €2500. However also most fun in building your own bike and free selection of components. No warranty on the complete bike though.
(B) Buying a 2020 Jari 1.1 (€2000) or Cannondale Topstone 105 (€1800), depending on next year's colors.
(C) Cheaping out with the Topstone Sora (€1000), which would, apart from the mechanical brakes, possibly offer 95% of the performance a casual cyclist like me could make use of anyway. Regarding that: Is the shifting performance of modern-day Sora comparable to my old 105 5600 10 speed groupset?

Thoughts? Other recommendations?
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>>1357981
>Germany (and pressfit, right?).
Seems like some models are pressfit, particularly the carbon ones. You'll find it much more common for carbon models to have pressfit.

I would hazard a guess and say Sora 3000 is possibly comparable or better than 105 5600. The only way to know for sure is to ride it. The Topstone Sora comes in a nice foresty green colour, and you always have the option of upgrading to a hydraulic brake groupset in the future, particularly with the release of the ST-4720 levers for Tiagra.
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>>1357751
>>1357981
>depending on next year's colors.
The topstone 2020 is all black:
https://m.biker-boarder.de/cannondale/2444630s.html?adword=google/Cannondale/shopping_css_chp/Bikes/Gravelbike/Topstone-Carbon-105/A2444632&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2rKMxsCn4wIVhYXVCh2Ttwk0EAQYASABEgIOMPD_BwE

But hell get some cool stickers mate
https://www.laurenceking.com/product/stick-it-to-the-man/
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>>1357987
>Sora 3000 is possibly comparable or better than 105 5600
That sounds good. I'll have to test ride it, but they rarely stock the XL models anywhere. I really like the dark green of the Sora Topstone, btw. But I'm still undecided whether €800 more for 105 with hydro disks is worth it in the long run.
>>1357989
>The topstone 2020 is all black
That's the new carbon version. Haven't found any info on the alloy 2020 Topstone 105 or Sora yet.
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>>1357993
It's me again. Found the new colors for the 2020 Topstone: https://www.sigmasports.com/search?query=topstone
There will be a light grey Tiagra model with hydro disks! https://www.sigmasports.com/item/Cannondale/Topstone-Tiagra-Disc-Adventure-Road-Bike-2020/MNO9
That's the one! Change my mind?
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>>1358020
>Change my mind?
Don't pay 1355€ for a tiagra bike when you can get a 105 bike with discs for 850€.
Cannondale is unfortunately a very expensive brand to buy in Europe. (Its a US with strict official sales channels in Europe)
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>>1358020
>Change my mind?

Buy the frame and color design you want. There is such tiny difference between gruppos for people who don't race that it doesn't matter at all. For something billed as "adventure road" I would really trust a big bike maker who has made MTBs and crossbikes for years to get an adventure/gravel bike right rather than just throw fatties on a road bike. (which I suspect the treks and cannondales of the world are not doing).

Also FYI I rode the Jari and was seriously underwhelmed. Oddly enough I felt the best Jari was the cheapest one. $800 for a reynolds steel bike with a steel fork was nice. I suspect 7/10 of the Jaris fuji sells are the Jari 2.5 (the cheap all steel one)
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Hardtail Specialized Pitch Comp 2018 for ~600 bucks yay or nay?
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>>1358039

Unrelated anon here. Would this be a good deal? Want an endurance road bike for winter training + commute, women's specific, under £1000, needs to take relatively fat tyres

https://www.cyclesuk.com/2358/products/cannondale-womens-synapse-al-disc-105-2019-road-bike.aspx
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The company I work for will pay me to ride a bike to work instead of driving so I'm looking for a decent electric bike to commute to work and back. I live 6.5 miles away.

Are either of these good choices? I don't know anything about bikes.

>https://lunacycle.com/luna-fixed-stealth-ebike/
>https://shop.superpedestrian.com/products/the-skinny-jeans#/
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>>1358326
no these have too small of a battery for the price.

If your commute is that small consider just getting a lightweight road bike. Get one that has racks and fender mounts if you don't want to have a backpack on.

The Specialized Allez Claris is 850 Dollars weighs half as much as those 250w ebike anchors, has mounts for racks and fenders and is in general considered one of the best bikes under 1000 USD.
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>>1358075
It's a good deal but mechanical discs are always a 'meh'

Don't get hung up on 'women specific' bikes.
It's a meme besides the saddle. Anything else can be adjusted buy saddle position and handlebar position. I think no one except the LIV team rides 'women specific' bikes in the Giro Rosa.
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>>1358049
You can do better than that.
Post local craiglist.
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>>1358039
>Don't pay 1355€ for a tiagra bike when you can get a 105 bike with discs for 850€.
Please tell me where I can find a full 105 equipped gravel bike with hydro disks for €850.
>>1358048
>Also FYI I rode the Jari and was seriously underwhelmed. Oddly enough I felt the best Jari was the cheapest one. $800 for a reynolds steel bike with a steel fork was nice.
The steel Sora equipped Jari (2.3) would be a really good budget option. For some reason, however, Fuji doesn't sell the 61cm (XL) model in Europe.

Price difference between the Topstone Tiagra and 105 will likely be 300 to 350 €. Both with hydraulic disk brakes, both with the same FSA Omega chainset, same rims and tires (tubeless ready), same finishing kit. Different hubs though.
Given the fact that I like the light grey of the Tiagra model better and come from a 2 x 10 (105 5600) cyclocross bike, I guess it will be hard to justify spending the price premium for the 105 model.
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>>1358407
I don't have craiglist, i'm outside of the US. It's not a used model, it's a leftover from last year that no one bought that's why it's 600 bucks
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>>1358075
Why do women pretend to enjoy cycling?
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>>1358075
the synapse is a great bike. I don't know how good it would be on a trainer as it actually has one of them newfangled micro-suspensions.
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>>1358414
>Please tell me where I can find a full 105 equipped gravel bike with hydro disks for €850.
Has been posted before:
>>1355817

Theres a "gravel version" of it for 1000€ but its just gravel tires with a meme handlebar on top so not worth the extra 150€.
The frame has a nicer paint though.
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>>1358443
Those aren't hydro disks
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>>1358450
It's also not full 105, we've been over this
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>>1358443
>>1358450
>>1358453
This thing has mech. 105 STIs, a 105 FD and RD. That's about it, 105-wise. Boat anchor crank, Microshift cassette, dollar store wheels, dollar store everything else... And above all, a frame that's got a 53cm (!) seat tube in XL (!) size, making it look like a cheap roadbike and a cheap mtb had a baby but mommy couldn't keep her hands off the meth during pregnancy. Is it a great deal for the money? Yes, absolutely. Would I rather spend €500 more to get something with a nicer frame, better wheels, fully hydraulic disk brakes? Yes. Maybe I'm a snob, but when I'm buying a new bike (which I did the last time in 2009), it better be nice. Chances are I'll have to ride that fucker till 2029.
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Hi, I'm looking for a commuter and daily bike in France. Mostly roads, paved streets and a dirt path (obviously needs mudguards, it gets messy in winter). What would you recommend, bikers?
I've seen the recommendations here, everyone seems to agree on Marin city bikes. It's not available here, something else would be nice, importing doesn't seem sound cost-wise.
>Be me
>Be 172cm (~5'7" probably)
>76cm inseam (30")
>Need bike
>Budget variable, I'm comfortable with 400€
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>>1358516
Mostly flat btw
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>>1358415
Then post your local used goods site. I'll help.

I would save a little more and buy a Cube Analog, if Cube sells their bikes on your country.
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Fairly flat 20km a day commute
5'9, able to do repairs, budget <$400
https://www.kijiji.ca/b-road-bike/kitchener-waterloo/c648l1700212
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>>1358516
Look 695 and an ass saver made of a soda bottle cut up with scissors
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>>1354365
>What am I looking to evaluate when I test ride a bike?
New or used? If used you want to make sure everything works. Shift the gears fully multiple times up and down. Check the brakes.

If new you're looking at size/comfort. It depends on how you're using it but if you plan on doing 2-hour bike rides then make sure the seat, handlebars, etc are what you want for a long ride. Make sure the frame isn't too tall or short
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>>1353473
6'3" here. It is both a blessing and a curse. Look for a bike sized XL or +60cm for old road bike. If buying used, people that don't know about bicycles will mention "for people over 6' ". Either bikes will be overpriced because XL size are scarce or dirt cheap because they cannot find buyers.
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>>1353473
>I’m 6’ 4”. What bike do I buy?

60-61cm if modern road bike
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>>1358739
>>I’m 6’ 4”. What bike do I buy?
>60-61cm if modern road bike

62cm-64cm actually
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>>1358743
depends on what the stack and reach is is but I bet he'd be fine with nearly all 61 frames.

My point is he doesn't need to go buy a Frankenstein's monster bike (the KHS Flite 747) just make sure you get a true XXL size frame (Fuji, Specialized) not some XL bullshit with a tall seatpost (lookin' at you, giant)

>>1358743
>62cm-64cm actually

I know it's a meme but Fuji does make an XXXL frame (ie: 63) in their Touring bike. He did say he wanted a reliable commuter to go over multiple surfaces.
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Used bicycles seem so overpriced in my city, about to call it quits and order some shitter on Amazon.
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>>1358704
pls help
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>>1358706
So you're suggesting to go with road bike rather than city/hybrid?
To be fair the Look 695 is too expensive for me, found it used for 1100 or 1800€ here, pic related
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>>1358812
> Bretagne
You will need full fenders.
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>>1358749
Nah order from merlincyclesuk, wiggle, performancebike, chainreaction cycles, or bikesdirect.

Raleigh, diamondback, poseidon, canyon all sell direct to consumer. The latter are bike companies, the earlier online sellers
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is buying btwin ultra 720 af frameset for €210 a good deal?
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>>1358846
and is this derailleur hanger in good condition?
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I'm thinking about buying a Fuji Jari. Probably the 2.5 or 2.3 version.
I currently own a Fuji Touring for use on long tours with lots of bags and stuff and a Radon R1 roadbike that I use for sports n shit. The Jari would be a middle ground between the two. Seems it has enough mounting holes for pretty much everything you need (fenders etc.) but a bit more of an agressive riding position than the Touring. So to me it looks like it would make a good bike for small loads 1 or 2 day trips (bikepacking essentially).

Has anyone ever had any experience with the Jari? And what are good and recommended alternatives in its price range (€1000 max/ $1125)?
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>>1358847
Looking at this makes me wonder: if the owner was so retarded as to overtighten a front derailleur (which doesn't even need to be that tight) to the point he pretty much destroyed the hanger, how poorly did he treat the rest of the frame? Why is he selling it when it looks almost brand new? Something smells fishy
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>>1358906
Dude just flip the stem on your Fuji Touring for when you want a more aggressive position
I'm not against n+1 but that would be way too redundant IMO
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>>1358940

B-but I'd like another bike ._. Something that is a bit more agressive and fun to ride fast, like a road bike. The Touring is great for long tours but it is not a quick, fun bike
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>>1358968
But you already have the Radon? What is Radon anyways? Some sort of European knockoff of Argon 18? I kid.

Seriously, what's wrong with the Radon? Do you need a commuter? What's wrong with using the Touring as a commuter? Maybe what you're trying to do is replace one or both bikes?
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>>1359006

This is the Radon. It's a german "manufacturer". Apparently they buy frames in Taiwan wherever and slap their logo on it. Then they sell it at a reasonable price on the internet.

I only use the Radon for excercise and fun. No commuting or anything. And it's got zero clearance for anything bigger than 25s.

All my commuting is done on the Touring and about once or twice a year I tend to go on a bigger tour with it. It's reasonably comfy on long rides and I can put all my stuff on it. But say I wanted to ride fast for fun on some crappy terrain and in the woods and whatnot it's just a bit too clunky. Especially with the bar end shifters. It's also got a rack on it, fenders, hub dynamo and lights etc. Not that much fun really.

That's why I was thinking about a bike that fits inbetween those two. Something that is fun to ride both on the road and off of it and which I could use for 1 or 2 day bikepacking trips around my city.
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>>1359017

Forgot the pic
>>
https://www.kijiji.ca/b-road-bike/city-of-toronto/c648l1700273

I'm commuting 15km round-trip in the city, 3-4 days per week, on an old road bike. I'd like to upgrade to something lighter/with wider tires. Any recommendations?

I'm open to spending up to $800 CAD. I'm telling myself that it'll pay for itself by avoiding the cost of transit, especially if I get a bike that I'm comfortable riding in the rain or snow.
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>>1359017
I'm not a believer in n+1 so I'd personally evaluate if the Jari can replace the Radon, or possibly get a bike that can replace both.
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>>1359152
heresey

>>1358906
imo it's a good idea, although you might also want to consider getting an XC bike or a modern rigid mtb meme bike like a surly of some sort instead for more kngarly bikepacking
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>>1358936
well the rest of the frame looks pretty good to me the dropouts have rather regular wear and I'm gonna repaint the frame either way so any tiny mark should be invisible
is this hanger still usable or is it possible to buy a new one?
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>>1359017
I think the Jari 2.3 (Sora) is great value for the money. You can find good deals online, now that the 2020 models are about to be released, e.g., https://www.cycletec.de/Rennraeder/Cyclocross/Fuji-Jari-2-3-Gravel-Bike--2019-.html
Also check out this site to compare different models across manufacturers: https://99spokes.com/compare?bikes=fuji-jari-2.3-2019;*z.MD,cannondale-topstone-sora-2019;*z.MD
I added the Sora-equipped Cannondale Topstone for your consideration.
Btw, I'm fairly certain that you'll find that you won't use your road bike that much any more, once you get a gravel bike.
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>>1358826
Now you got me interested. What exactly are those ? I bought some fenders for my current dirt eater and I still got a shit load of mud on me in winter
Btw the rainy weather is a meme, it's mostly true on the coast. There's always been worse weather in Normandy whenever I went there
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Caved in and bought a Raleigh Carlton 8 since all craigslist has in my city is kids bikes
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Looking for good light street commuter. Going to check this one out tonight:

https://seattle.craigslist.org/est/bik/6927850490.html

Also keeping an eye on these:x
https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/6927342118.html

https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/d/renton-trek-cm/6911600625.html

https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/d/seattle-trek-cm/6918723555.html

https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/6929672832.html -250$ without accessories

https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/6922275595.html

https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/6927032807.html

https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/bik/d/tacoma-trek-330-roadbike-21-spd/6920617655.html


Any suggestions? 5'7 here and riding up and down hill ~10 miles / day
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>>1359217
Full coverage fenders... for your bicycle... You'll want ones that have enough coverage in front to prevent spray getting all over your feet and chainrings, and in the back to prevent spray getting on you. You can cut the rear fender short to keep people off your back with spray, which is useful when some people can't judge braking distances for shit. I also like to rivet on an extension on the chain side of the rear tire near the bottom bracket junction, for extra coverage so rear wheel spray doesn't get all over the chain.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/fenders.html
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Is a 27.5+ Hardtail the right tool for comfy, leisure, weekend trail riding? I just sold my entry level 29er and want to upgrade. I do both flat fire roads and gnarly downhill (taken gently as I cannot risk getting injured for work) I strongly favor comfortability, plush ride, control and safety over speed. I figure 2.6"-2.8" tires offer cushion that my knees, ankles, and lower back, wrists will appreciate. Of course full suspension would even more so but $,$$$ puts it out of the question.

I hate dealing with people's used clapped out shit so Im looking at new. Also, never had a new bike.

Budget of max $750-800 used or $1,000 new.
https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/d/bicycles/search/bia
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>>1359439
Main things I want are a 1x drivetrain and hydraulic brakes. Have access to multiple great bike shops that sell Trek Specialized Giant Kona Rocky Mountain Fuji
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Howdy! I posted in the wrong bike thread it seems, so i'm just going to copy and paste what i wrote there here.
Moved to a new city and i know nothing about riding around city streets or even what type of bike to get.
I'm seeing decent looking used road bikes within my price range ($100-200), but i don't know what I should look for if I go to check them out.
halp please
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>>1359439
This depends on your terrain. I would think even a dirt eater would recognize this. But your plan sounds good.

BTW, get your fucking ass on one of those sales the bike nazi mentioned. They have marin full suspension 1x11 with recons for under a thousand last I checked.

>>1359443
Post craigslist and measurements.. And check out the bike mentioned here:

>>1351721
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>>1359474
Small or Medium only FUCK I can't do medium.
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>>1359298
58 is too big dude.
You want a 54. Maybe a 52 or 56
Any reason you're only looking at Treks?
Of those 3 that would fit you that you said, the steel 330 is probably not a bad buy, although it needs new tyres.

https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/d/bellevue-centurion-ironman-expert-dave/6926369807.html
best road bike option if it isn't too big

https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/d/seattle-univega-gran-turismo-52cm/6931966265.html
very nice comfy slower bike

https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/d/seattle-khs-turbo-aero-16-speed-road/6928069625.html
would be pretty sick if you could haggle down to 300

https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/d/seattle-miyata-14-speed/6918497438.html
ugly and not great but probably p solid

https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/d/seattle-dobiacco-road-bike-56cm-campy/6928157973.html
https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/d/seattle-gravity-pro-20-size-55cm/6932032187.html
both possibly too big but fast and modern if you wanted to spend more

https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/d/seattle-trek-elance-road-bike-55-to-58/6932573908.html
very handsome, nice low gearing for hills, might want to check if it's 700c wheels or not, 28" is a bitch

https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/d/everett-bianchi-volpe/6931314754.html
another more comfy-utility end touring-esque bike with low gearing. meme shifters pretty rad
>>
I'm considering getting a bike to commute to work (4 miles each way) and possibly to ride on paved paths through parks but I haven't ridden a bicycle in over ten years. I used to ride a mountain bike all the time around my neighborhood until I graduated from high school and I absolutely loved it.
My new neighborhood is relatively flat so I'm not too concerned about having a bunch of gears. Always on dry pavement. Interested in a road bike, but I'll keep an open mind.
I'm 6'5" with a 36" inseam and long arms... based on what I've read, it sounds like I should be looking for 60cm+ (24"+) frames?
I would prefer to keep it around/under $600usd just in case it gets stolen.
The cheapest new bike at a local shop that kind of fits what I'm looking for is this one:
https://www.eriksbikeshop.com/Masi-2019-Riser-Single-Speed-Road-Bike-Chrome/PR3E16975/Product
I'm not sure how reliable that flip-flop hub would be.
Local Craiglist:
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/search/hnp/bia?
I see a 64cm/25" Schwinn but the wheels look tiny relative to the frame -- is that how bikes are supposed to look?
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/bik/d/minneapolis-classic-schwinn-road-bikes/6918632701.html
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>>1359526
>My new neighborhood is relatively flat so I'm not too concerned about having a bunch of gears. Always on dry pavement.

This suits getting a classic road bike. They have the shifters on the frame, which can be awkward. Seeing as it's flat, you won't have to shift much, so it's good. Higher end old road bikes also often don't have very wide/low gearing, also fine on the flat. And their ride in general is quite nice.

That Masi is not a bad idea though. It just might be a little small for you at 60cm even.
The Schwinn is an absolute piece of garbage.

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/bik/d/minneapolis-1977-sekai-grand-tour-cm/6918144523.html
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/bik/d/minneapolis-lg-frame-bridgestone-10/6900851175.html
Top tier shitters. Really for a short dry flat commute, they'd be totally fine. And they're good sizes. Would fit better than a stock 60cm new bike.

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/bik/d/minneapolis-trek-elance-330-road-bike/6900708009.html
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/bik/d/chanhassen-schwinn-bicycle/6906977242.html
entry level good road bikes. Both overpriced but again, haggling.

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/bik/d/minneapolis-schwinn-mtb-commuter-fully/6926482009.html
rigid 90 meme

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/bik/d/minneapolis-masi-giramondo/6931851803.html
Here's a $1300 bike, seemingly like new, modern, kind of halfway between a mtb and a road, a 'meme' bike. Basically comfy and versatile but slower than a pure road. Well worth it if you want something really decent.

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/bik/d/minneapolis-62cm-miyata-two-ten-touring/6926850909.html
This is overpriced but is rather lovely and looks great condition. Basically a retro version of above, a slower, more versatile road bike that fits wider tyres. I think you could haggle it lower in person, 250 or 300 if you had cash with you.
>>
>>1359546
Thank you very much for the advice and going through those!
What tipped you off about the Schwinn I found being garbage? Is it just so old that technology has come a long way since then?
I feel like my future bike could be among one of your craigslist rec's; the only one I'm not feeling is that "rigid 90 meme".
The Sekai and Trek might even be on the verge of being too big, but I would love to try at least one out to see how they feel.
>>
>>1359552
No worries anon.
Yeah size is hard to tell though, go ride them. Don't think you have to be able to put a foot on the ground when you're on the seat either. You just need nut clearance straddling the top tube, and to not feel too stretched out.
The Schwinn's you posted have one piece cranks (garbage), steel rims (awful braking), 27" tyres (old standard), welded rather than lugged frames, before tig welding frames worked well, cheap stamped dropouts, garbage gaspipe steel, just all round very low end bikes. The worst you can get. Shit shit bikes

Those 2 $100 bikes i reced are good shit bikes. Still hiten steel, not chromoly frames, but lugged, with nicer dropouts, probably still nicer steel, and still stem shifters and suicide brake levers, but just all round higher quality, with decent drivetrains, proper square taper cranks etc. Basically decent, for still being relatively low end bikes for casuals. Especially the sekai.

The next two are low end still, but proper sporting bikes that people would have bought to ride seriously. They have butted chromoly steel frames, which is lighter and generally rides much better, indexed gears, 700c wheels which fit good modern tyres and more durable parts all round.

really it just takes years of autism to pick old bikes well and if i start giving tells then other autists will get triggered and start coping about how stem shifters are good.

good luck anyway lol. When you get something come back and post it.
>>
>>1359552
And also no. Most of the bad things about those Schwinns weren't inherent to the era, just for the very cheap stuff then.

Tech has improved in several ways but better 70s/80s bikes can still be very decent.
>>
>>1359563
>>1359564
I really appreciate the information and now I have some terms to lookup and try and understand :) Thanks again.
Hopefully I'll be able to come back to the pybt sooner rather than later.
>>
Went to a small local bike shop and there's two choices
>some german "ebike" or something, don't remember, entry level hardtail for 400€. Coil suspension, 3by, mechanical disk brakes
>Kona cinder cone, used one week. Air suspension, 1by, hydraulic brakes. 800 instead of 1000€
Which one is yay and which one is gay?
>>
https://vancouver.craigslist.org/van/bik/d/vancouver-adult-n0rco-20-chromoly-frame/6932811371.html

Thoughts? Just want something to take to work sometimes, get groceries, cruise around, etc.
It's within 1 inch of my ideal size apparently (5'9 with 31" inseam) and everything else seems a bit shite.

I honestly have no idea about bicycles, more into motorcycles but from my little research it seems good?
>>
>>1359745
>everything seems a bit shite
>it seems good
>>
>>1359748
I meant everything else in the region but I don't really know what I'm lookin at here so who knows.

Budget is $300, feel free to try to find something better.
https://vancouver.craigslist.org/van/bik/d/vancouver-peugeot-fraser-commuter-bike/6932399563.html
maybe this?

https://vancouver.craigslist.org/nvn/bik/d/north-vancouver-commuter-bike-free-bag/6931728424.html
seems like a good deal but shittier bike

Idk man, out of my element.
>>
>>1359745
>>1359749
Hypothetically
>I'm moving to vancouver
>I need a bike
>My budget is $300

These are some of the things that caught my eye
https://vancouver.craigslist.org/van/bik/d/vancouver-single-speed-18/6928485669.html
https://vancouver.craigslist.org/van/bik/d/vancouver-single-speed-18/6928485669.html
https://vancouver.craigslist.org/van/bik/d/vancouver-hard-tail-mountian-bike-for/6928093811.html
https://vancouver.craigslist.org/van/bik/d/vancouver-gt-tempest-75-obo/6908420712.html
https://vancouver.craigslist.org/van/bik/d/vancouver-nishiki-rally-road-bike-23/6925568217.html
https://vancouver.craigslist.org/van/bik/d/vancouver-mens-road-bike/6924732743.html
https://vancouver.craigslist.org/van/bik/d/vancouver-redline-925-fixed-gear-52cm/6920338947.html
https://vancouver.craigslist.org/van/bik/d/vancouver-aluminum-micargi-road-rike/6926826566.html
https://vancouver.craigslist.org/van/bik/d/vancouver-53cm-norco-sonic-road-bike/6933185704.html
https://vancouver.craigslist.org/van/bik/d/vancouver-norco-monterey-sl/6931465753.html
https://vancouver.craigslist.org/van/bik/d/richmond-norco-avanti-sl/6912876523.html
https://vancouver.craigslist.org/van/bik/d/vancouver-maruishi-10-speed/6924747404.html

And especially this Paddy Wagon, although it's sadly much too small to be a realistic option for me.
https://vancouver.craigslist.org/van/bik/d/vancouver-50cm-kona-paddy-wagon-single/6929898862.html
I own a Paddy Wagon and I love it.

But if you listen to me you'll end up with something I might like, not neccesarily something you'll like.
>>
>>1359760
Kind of like the look of that first bike
>rear tire has thread to turn it into a flip-flop.
I assume that's to make it fixed vs free?

Gonna send them an email anyways.
>>
>>1359761
>>rear tire has thread to turn it into a flip-flop.
>I assume that's to make it fixed vs free?
Correct. Or even fixed-fixed, free-free, with different ratios, depending on what you want to screw on there.
>>
>>1359763
Well I got it, just brought it home. Google estimated 50 minutes but I did it in ~30. Legs are pretty dead now, haven't ridden a bicycle in like 7 years.

Already got passed by some people on ebikes though, feels bad.
>>
>>1360191
Is that a dent at the fork crown?

E-bikes are only good for a free draft.
>>
>>1360197
Don't think so.. don't see any dents in person
>>
>>1360202
Oh, it's just your helmet reflecting in the fork.

Looks like a nice buy.
>>
canadafag here
I've been looking for MONTHS for a decent bike in 61cm at a reasonable price. I like a more aggressive riding style. What can I get for under $1k Canadian?
>>
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I'm half debating about buying a YBN Ti-Nitride 11-speed Black Chain to replace my Shimano chain.

There's nothing wrong with it but the black looks cool and would match my bike perfectly and since I also wax my chains having two chains would be beneficial.

Is there any benefit to this chain, aside from aesthetics, over the shimano?
>>
>>1360265
Check the clearances mentioned in the second post. My bro just got an lightweight 11 speed tiagra for 900 US. You might have to pay a canada tax and drop to Sora for 1000, but there's some fucking sweet deals.
>>
>>1360288
A black chain just looks dirty
>>
TL;DR: Looking for road/commuting bike, 13km route, steep climb the first 3km. Pls no more expensive than entry level road bikes from big brands.

Yurofag that moved to mexico for work. And it's a great place with tons of people using shitbikes to get to work.
I have always used shitty hand me down bikes from friends or family, last bike in europe was a Y-fork ultra heavy steel with locked suspension.

Now I want to take it a bit more seriously because I'll do the whole route by bike, instead of just to the train station.
That said, being the eurofag that I am, I want to avoid buying from brands like (((specialized))) and giant and the like.
I've seen norco, which so far seems like a friendly canadian brand.
Obviously the always expensive italian comfy brands.
And then there's mexican brands like Mercurio and Benotto, pic related.
I may as well just buy an eurobrand if I find one here though...
>>
>>1360345
merida, diamondback, felt, kona, fuji, vitus, etc there are a lot of brands which make entry level road bikes which might have a special snowflake enough name on them for you.

In reality they're all going to be largely the same and all made in the same factories in taiwan. Buying off brand name is kind of absurd if you want something generic and you're looking for entry level. Iunno what is even available to you in Mexico or how much you want to spend either. It is a good idea to buy something you like for arbitrary reasons, but not off its name, go off how it looks to you.

Basically though, try to buy something with a current gen groupset on it and a carbon (or chromoly steel) fork. In your pic is not, it's old sora. Claris, sora, tiagra, 105 in tiers from lowest are all good now. But the most current gen of them. Which all share the same new ergonomics for the hoods.
The difference between most entry level and next up is generally an in-series shimano hollowtech crank. Very bottom tier road bikes will generally have a cheap chinkesium square taper crank to cut costs. Also very bottom tier road bikes often have cheap chink brakes to cut costs.

Beyond that I think the only real differences in road bikes will be their tyre clearance. You may want to look for something which fits 32mm tyres, as many road bikes do now, to give you a more comfy ride and something that deals better on rough surfaces and protects your rims from potholes better. But honestly 28 is fine too and nearly all road bikes now will fit that. You may also want a bike with rack mounts. I wouldn't be too concerned with disc or no disc.
>>
>>1360378
Thanks, noted.
The thing with brands wasn't the name, to come off as different or whatever, but rather to support brands with good ethics and all that jazz. The aggressive litigious aspect of specialized is what puts me off of them for example.
I guess I'll look for a used bike and upgrade as needed taking into account what you mentioned plus what I learn.
>>
>>1360288
>black looks cool
no it looks like it has old oil on it

>I also wax my chains having two chains would be beneficial
whut

>any benefit to this chain
yes, the black color will wear down quickly, revealing the silver metal

Just take a silver chain and put too much oil on it and ride it for half a year. I't'll be super black.
>>
>>1360380
what low wage job did you move to mexico for lol
>>
>>1360288
>2chainz
iunno if this is a good idea lad
drivetrains wear together
>>
>>1360345
Cube has the off-season thing right now. Where exactly in Mexico are you?
>>
>>1357659
Good news: Fuji confirms the 2020 Jari 1.1 will be gold again! :)
>>
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>>1360263
Thanks, looking forward to do some hooligan stuff.
I live in a pretty hilly area, any reccomendations for what would be a good rear sprocket?

Pic related would be my ride home from work. Seems worthwhile to sacrifice flat ground speed to make it easier for myself.
>>
>>1360400
Higher wage engineer job for a german firm, large company has sites all over the world and mexico is nice and life is ultra cheap. Roads suck, drivers suck shit, food is amazing, the women are gorgeous, cops suck shit everywhere anyway, rent is super cheap, amazing weather, hospitals and docs are not bad at all and it's easier to find specialists for anything unlike in germany where they are booked for months or years.
>>
>>1359474
https://sandiego.craigslist.org/d/bicycles/search/bia
I'm around 5'10". Unless you mean other measurements.
>>
looking for any bike strong enough for my weight for commute. 5'9.5 260+lbs. $500 budget
>>
>>1360552
https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/bik/d/carlsbad-schwinn-paramount-series-3-pdg/6918559969.html
this is the one anon. Easily the best option. Might need a bit of work/ tweaking but well worth it. Very nice bike.
https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/bik/d/carlsbad-lemond-zurich-carbon-fork/6933569172.html
also a very nice bike. maybe too small.
https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/bik/d/imperial-beach-nishiki-modulus/6933036343.html
https://sandiego.craigslist.org/esd/bik/d/el-cajon-1983-trek-630/6922423366.html
these two look better condition, but less modern, and lower tier, and more money.

main thing to look for, is the teeth profile on the chainrings. Compare them to each other to spot wear. Blatant sharktoothing, so sharp points is terrible, and ones that look new are great. If they're fucked, as they often are on road bikes (more likely even with more modern higher tier bikes as they get ridden into the ground by roadies), it means you need to replace the whole drivetrain basically and it's expensive.
other than that, check the bearings are all smooth with no play, and that the wheels spin straight, with evenly tensioned spokes and not badly worn brake tracks. Check the legs down bend back from the line of the frame's head tube (front end collision). If you can ride no hands, try ride it no hands. That means a frame is straight. If you can't it's not necessarily bent though. Check all around for hairline cracks in the frame. Cracked cables.

Obviously how it rides. Most things are haggling points rather than passes though, except frame damage, and maybe bad wheels and badly worn drivetrain on a cheaper bike too.
>>
>>1360565
>Check the legs down bend back from the line of the frame's head tube (front end collision).
*check the fork legs don't bend back
>>
>>1360560
Your best option is something like this, a nice old rigid mtb, in good nic, with wide slick road tyres
https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/bik/d/san-marcos-1987-specialized-mountain/6929308792.html
Literally better for you than what you'd get for $500 new.

If you insist on buying a new bike, any hybrid should be fine, and you can't get anything else for the money really. Just try avoid suspension and try avoid 7 speed bikes.
>>
Do you guys consider mips absolutely necessary or just another gimmick which doesn't help at all?
I won't budget down on safety, but at the same time I don't wanna spend money on proprietary stuff if it's just about having an extra good boy points sticker.
>>
>>1360578
Mips is too new to really know how much it helps, or even if it helps at all. Prioritize fit first for protection. I suspect some form of the tech will eventually become standard

>>1360560
You are a clydesdale.

Do what anon says here: >>1360568 There's some good deals mentioned earlier. The larkspur would work.

My choice would be this.

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/marin-stinson-27-5-city-bike-2018/rp-prod186808

Super wide tires for your fat ass, chromolly fork. Luggage mounts.
Only minus is the low end 7 speed drivetrain, but the price is unbeatable.

I'd also consider some of the hard tail mountain bikes. The suspension is generally a minus, but will save your wheels if you hit a pothole. Also with the toughest wheelsets around.
>>
Thinking of getting an old bike to turn into a commuter.
This was a new bike when I was a teen but I guess I'm old now. It has the cheapo tiagra set, but it's overall in good condition, kept clean and all. $400, seems kinda expensive but I've been finding them around that price for a well maintained example.

Also considering a pre 90s schwinn, raleigh, fuji, etc. and just upgrading some bits here and there. End result of price will probably be the same anyway.
>>
>>1360568
/n/ is suffering from the same issue as /o/ now.
The recommendations are outdated as fuck. With a $500 budget, you'd be an idiot to buy an 80s/90s bike, those are 30-40 years old now.
The standards have changed, a lot of great new tech has come out that legitimately fixes issues old bikes had, and on a bike that is that old, you'll soon replace literally everything, making it not even financially a good investment.

If you need a bike now and only have $100, sure go ahead. If you have $500, you can do a lot better and save yourself a lot of hassle.
>>
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Hey guys, new here. I'm just getting into MTB. Bought this 2015 Scott Spark 930 from a local guy for $750 a week ago. It's used but the service guys tell me it's working like a clock, and I got some flat pedals and new grips for it. Did this guy did not know what he was selling or what?
>>
>>1360620
You should invest a bit to have it repainted so the original owner doesn't come after you.
>>
>>1360625
That's what I thought. It's imported from Germany though, the guy showed me customs declarations, so I don't care. Guess I got lucky
>>
>>1360634
Sounds like a special case then. Sometimes you get lucky. Ride the fuck out of it.
>>
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>>1360640
>>
>>1360565
Thanks for the advice. I got in contact with the person selling the Schwinn and i'm going to drive up to see them tomorrow.
What do you mean when you saw sharktoothing? Like a curve in the gear tooth?
>>
Https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZLO6EV/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_X2rlDbCGVGJMN

Is this a good bike for someone who knows nothing about bikes and wants something relatively nice but not too expensive?

What kind of pedals do I need to get if I don't feel like getting special shoes?
>>
Hey I am from a third world country, so I probably won't be able to buy these bikes you're posting, but could you help me with these things?

>want
Bike to move inside the city, and ocassionally do some 60 km aprox rides.
>also want
that it lasts without having to fix it every couple months
>do not care really
strong brakes, speed, "energy efficiency"
>height
1,77 aprox
>brakes
What should I aim for? V, mechanical or hydraulics? Higher end bikes seem to have hydraulic, but a friend told me it's useless unless you actually ride a fucking lot (and that they break more easily)
>seat
how does this work? there's a gigantic meme about it ruining your balls or something? is this something to take somewhat seriously?
>brands
Anyone got a shortlist of somewhat trusty bike brands? So that I have a reference.
>>
>>1360620
>>1360625
>>1360634
>>1360640
That's one of the performance bikes bankruptcy auction bikes.
>>
>>1360809
Hydraulics are good in the rain or if you need hard stops or bad traction, like mountain bikes. They're much stronger, but if you're on the road I wouldn't bother.

Seat
Find one that fits your ass.

Brands
Fuck brands. Focus on a good drivetrain, and maybe wheels.

Where are you shopping?
>>
>>1360619
>on a bike that is that old, you'll soon replace literally everything, making it not even financially a good investment.
That's really not true. On a bike that old, it's already been done, several times over.
30-40 years old is irrelevant. It's not hard to restore a bike. And i'm not recommending total projects to new people. That bike is clearly in very good condition. It's not a guess either. You can tell.
Bikes that are 5-15 years old are just as likely to be totally shot, infact more so. If someone's held onto something through the years, they've generally either restored it, or all the damage is from mother time, not use.

The reason i recommended he buy a quality rigid 90s mtb is because a high quality chromoly frameset rides better for casual use than a low end aluminium frame with a hiten or alum fork. It's the kind of spec which you can't get unless you spend at the very minimium $800, say with a Marin Muirwoods. ~$800 is around when road bikes get good too.

>The standards have changed, a lot of great new tech has come out that legitimately fixes issues old bikes had
It actually really fucking hasn't. Getting a threadless headset is the only advantage you'll get at that price point.
>>
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>>1360721
This is an extreme example of it.
You can generally tell by comparing one chainring with the other, as they wear at different rates. Bear in mind though, that some individual teeth may be profiled differently to aid shifting, and not to mistake that for wear.

And it's not that you can't replace them either, just that when the chainrings are worn, you want to replace the cassette and chain as well. And sometimes chainrings can be hard to find.

Good luck anon. That bike is really high quality. It will come up nicely with some TLC. You can get a shorter stem for it if you're stretched out and the aerobars will come off.
>>
>>1360619
And it's not like i'm giving arbitrary non-specific advice either dude. I'm seeing great condition high quality rigid mtbs on craigslist all the time. I posted a specific current example.

And if someone said they had $500 for a -road- bike or for actual mtbing, i probably would suggest they buy new and stretch their budget a little.
>>
>>1360618
what, that r400 for $400 with fucking thumb button shifters?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dik_wnOE4dk

>pre 90s schwinn, raleigh, fuji, etc.
lol you want to be a bit more specific.
It's not a bad idea in general though esp if you want a project, but what 'modifications' do you think a commuter entails anyway?
>>
>>1360809
Which third world country?
>>
>>1360833
Local bike shop. Thanks
>>1360879
Argentina



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