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File: bqg6.png (2.4 MB, 1500x1125)
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/bqg/ - Bike Questions General

Last thread: >>1324940

/n/ Discord: https://discord.gg/z5pdNh2

Resources:
https://sheldonbrown.com/
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
https://booksdescr.com/item/detail/id/1444747

If you want help picking out a bike to purchase, ask in >>>/n/bbg
>>
I still prefer to get a cool aerobike over a normal roadie.
What's wrong with this?
>>
>>1330974
Nothing it’s called your preference for a reason.
>>
>>1330978
But it seems like the majority has a roadie, maybe because it's cheaper?
>>
>>1330983
If I'm a roadie who wants to work in the area, why not try getting that car out? I can handle it. How much is your pay? If you are a guy who doesn't want that car, why not try the car that I'm working on?


What are your opinions? If you live or are in the area, what would you pay for someone to do anything that you cannot? Would you pay to come drive this car? I don't know what that's looking for.
>>
>>1330983
>>1330987
what the fuck
>>
>>1330983
Cheaper, lighter, less proprietary parts
>>
>>1330991
I'm new.

>>1331000
It's okay if it's a little big heavier, I just want to be able to blast even when the wind is strong.
>>
>>1331002
Better get some aero bars and tuck the fuck down in that case, the aero drag of your bike is minuscule compared to the drag your body creates.
>>
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What would be the name of this fucked surface in English? Would 2.8" tyres deal with these regular bumps noticeably better than 2.0"?
>>
>>1331015
Those are called brake bumps and yes, .8" will make a big difference. Lower pressure too.
>>
>>1330983
Personally I don't like the comfort tradeoff for the additional speed
>>
>>1331021
How big is the difference in comfortness between the two? the aereo has lower bars and higher seat? is it overall too stiff?
>>
>>1331017
There is an abundance of this on most gravel roads where I live (stretching over long strips) and I can't decide if I should go for a gravel meme or spend more on a plus tyre bike. Cars despite having a suspension still get shaken up on these bumps. On Gravel™ I could try to avoid these sections by going on tarmac but if plus tyres would be enough to mitigate the bumps so that I'm not seething inside I would go for the latter. Can I get some of your thoughts on the matter, anons?
>>
>>1331030
You'll always feel brake bumps. You just gotta embrace them.
>>
>>1331030
Hardtail MTB. I've been trying out gravelmeme and on less rough stuff than that I felt like 80-100mm of front sus would've been great, and I'm not sold on the utility of brifters for anything rougher than smoothish hardpack.
>>
>>1330951
I need to replace the front wheel on my vintage road bike. The broken one says Araya 700c on it. The part where the hub connects to the spokes has cracked and broken in two places, and the spokes are loose on that end.

The wheel seems to measure 25 inches, so I can buy a 25 inch wheel off eBay and it will fit OK? The catalog sheet says the bike originally had 700 x 25c wheels.
>>
>>1331064
I'm thinking something like this would be OK?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Araya-Super-Hard-Anodized-700c-Front-wheel-W-Campagnolo-Hub-Schrader-Valve-/173768912986
>>
>>1331064
>>1331067
Yes, any 700c wheel will do.
>>
I got 21 speed microshit brake shifters on an old bike. Any recommendations for cheap but adequate derailleur set? The old mtb derailleurs currently on the bike have too strong a spring, even with the limits properly set.
>>
Do I just have to swap the freehub body on my mountain bikes rear hub to make it 11 speed compatible or do I have to do anything else.
>>
>>1331067
the bearings are probably bad on that

https://www.wiggle.com/campagnolo-calima-c17-front-road-wheel/?curr=USD&dest=18&prevDestCountryId=35

maybe?
>>
>>1331015
washboarding or corrugation
>>
>>1331067
https://www.evanscycles.com/en-us/shimano-rs100-700c-front-road-wheel-EV353526

or this
>>
>>1331220
are you running tubeless?
>>
>>1331226
No but I kinda want to. What does running tubeless have to do with it anyway?
>>
>>1331227
You've got your upgrade priorities wrong then. Buy some nice tubeless wheels before you upgrade your groupset. That will make a way bigger difference. You can just run your current cassette on a spacer and then if you want to upgrade your groupset later, you won't have to do any hub conversion.
>>
>>1331229
Yeah but there tubeless ready now. I'm just to lazy to mess around with sealant and stuff
>>
>>1331231
lol by any chance are you 'upgrading' your drivetrain because you're too lazy/incompetent to tune it well?
>>
>>1331234
No I'm sort of new to mountain biking and frankly I can't stand how a 3x9 crankset looks. Shitty reason I know. Plus I could probably shed like a pound off the already light weight.
>>
>>1331237
its a really shitty reason
>>
>>1331239
I know. Though I kinda wanna keep it 3x9 or make it 2x9 because of the sweet rear derailleur. It's part carbon fiber.
>>
>>1331015
Get a rigid steel fork and 2.0s will manage just fine.
>>
>>1331015
>28s WilL hAndLe gRaVeL jUsT fInE
>>
>>1331322
kek
>>
Should I get a U lock or a chain lock?
Is there a particular brand I should get or can I just buy the cheapest from my local bike shop?
>>
>>1331346
(proper) chain locks are heavier and might be more durable. Probably a good choice if you can leave it where you park your bike.

Aside from that a sturdy u-lock with a cable is a good allround choice. But don't just buy the cheapest shit you find. Abus and kryptonite make good shit, probably.
>>
>>1331346
kryptonite or abus ulock. spend about $50 or moere, depending on the value of your bike.
>>
what do with 57 cm Giant CFR 2 frame and fork ?
the only parts I have for it are the derailleurs and seat post
>>
>>1331064
https://cincinnati.craigslist.org/bop/d/cincinnati-retrospec-mantra-wheelset/6886263704.html

This is a complete wheelset for $65. Worth it? Or would they look silly on a vintage bike?
>>
>>1331368
Make a rigid mtb out of it
>>
>>1331148
What derailleurs are you currently using?
>>
>>1331409
they'd look cool but you'd probably have to run it single speed not fixed, as the dropouts have no room to slide the wheel back and forward to tension the chain.
you also should make sure what width the rear is, because you probably shouldn't spread it to fit a wider modern 130mm hub, if it's 126mm

Honestly I don't see the point unless you can get cheap parts you'd be better off restoring a complete bike and something nice classic steel is way more desirable.
>>
>>1331346
Ulock. If you're in a big city, Kryptonite evo 4 or Abus equivalent or better.


Avoid master lock. Onguard is acceptable, but is not as good as they kryponite or abus equivalent.

>>1331368
tap test.

Are you gigantic? One idea is to turn it into a carbon fiber cruiser. Put ape hanger bars or similar, and ride it in an upright position, to deal with the reach issues. Maybe 1x drivetrain with friction shifting.. Think shwinn stingray.
>>
How is this so cheap?????

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/triban-rc-520-disc-road-bike-navy-105-id_8554421.html
>>
>>1331507
They cut a lot of corners.
>>
My crankset has started squeeking since a few weeks. I don't know shit about bikes, so could someone tell me what part need to be repaired/replaced and how to do it?
I own pic related since 5 years and I use it daily.
>>
>>1331513
>>1331513
That's easily solved

first you find a river nearby

pick up the BSO With both hands

throw it gently into the river

fish it out sometime later after you've purchased a real bike

then throw it back in laughing
>>
>>1331447
Ended up getting this one, classic steel to match the rear wheel. I could faff about and get a matching set but I just want to ride the thing.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/254182005452
>>
>>1331513
Get a vintage road bike instead. I was going to buy a Chinkmart bike but ended up with a better quality steel one for much less money. You will learn a lot about fixing them as well.
>>
>>1331507
Store brand wheels/seatpost/saddle/stem/headset
Microshift cassette
RS510 crankset
Cable actuated "hydro" brakes
10kg
>>
>>1331513
For some actual advice. If you want to replace the bottom bracket (likely the case), you'll need tools to do so. You don't have those tools for a good reason, so your options are going to your local bike shop and asking them to fix it or finding a shop that has open hours. Sealed bottom brackets are fairly cheap ($35) and whoever is helping you will know what to look for. Otherwise, labors a bit for that sort of thing and you'll have to pony up a cool $100.

Btwin is ok as far as BSO's go, but if you bike every day on that thing, you deserve better. Seriously consider getting a used bike if you're in a budget. If you do, make sure to take the kickstand, rack, and fenders off of your current bike if the new one doesn't have it. Anyone can put those on and as I'm sure you already know, they vastly improve your quality of life.

If you want used or new, drop the Bike Buying thread a post w/ your city/location
>>
>>1331571
the tools aren't expensive
a decent crank puller and bottom bracket wrench should only be ~$15 each

>>1331513
take the chain off the crank so it spins freely (lift it off the inside, by shifting to the lowest gear, and pulling the rear derailer cage forward to get slack).
Does it still squeek/ feel not smooth?
>>
>>1331516
He probably rode this thing more than you did yours.
>>
>>1331569
Hey, 10kg isn't that bad, if it's a steel bike. How did someone manage to make an aluminum that heavy, though?
>>
>>1331795
Everything they bolted onto it is heavy
>>
>>1331566
>>1331571
Thanks for your advices, I will look into it
>>1331686
When I make it spin freely, it doesn't make that noise. I guess it does that only when I need to apply some force on the pedal.
>>
>>1331795
Why do people make excuses for steel bicycles?
>>
>>1331882
What do you mean?
>>
>>1331891
Why is it ok for a bike to be heavy if It's made of steel?
>>
>>1331899
A steel bike CAN'T be light
>>
>>1331899
Because weight isn't the only aspect of bicycles. Steel is heavier, but offers other advantages. Since everyone is different, some people prefer the advantages steel offerd despite the added weight.
>>
>>1331902
>>1331903
Why not just use aluminum? It's not like you'll rattle to death if your bike isn't made of spring steel
>>
How can I fix my chain not moving on the cogs? T. Newfag
>>
>>1331919
my aluminum bike doesn't trigger the induction loops installed in the road to switch traffic lights green. it's a harsher ride than my steel bike. i know that it will lose its rigidity over time and will get worse with years of use. it weighs 500g less which I don't notice at all.
>>
>>1331929
what do you mean? it doesn't shift?
>>
>>1331932
Yeah it doesn't shift at all
>>
>>1331902
It's trivial to get a steel-framed bike well under the UCI limit, if you have budget for high-end groupsets and wheels.
>>
>>1331934
either your shifter is simply broken or your shift cables are not connected right or cut. do both shifters not work? do you have derailleur gears or a gear hub?
>>
>>1331937
Both don't work, I have a derailleur
>>
>>1331939
So 2 completely independent shifting systems do not work at all. When was the last time they worked? What happened in the meantime? Something like this doesn't happen suddenly.
>>
>>1331946
Not sure, I got the bike from my parents yesterday. They bought new ones and said if I can fix this one then it's mine. I think it's been neglected for a while
>>
>>1331948
check if the cables are securely connected at both ends (shifter and derailleur)
check if the cables are correctly hooked into the frame's braze-ons that guide them
check if there's slack in the cable. if there is, pull the cable and see if it moves the derailleur
check if some "clicking" even happens when you operate the shifters

Generally, it's a simple system. The cable pulls the derailleur in one direction. the cable housing is used as a base for the cable to push against.
A spring inside the derailleur pulls against the cable. The shifter clicks and pulls/gives a specific amount of cable.
>>
Would flat pedals be noticeably disadvantageous on a road bike if I'm just commuting and cycling for fun?
>>
I'm sure this is a stupid question, but do you get a professional bike fitting done once and you can then use that for life, or does it happen on a bike-per-bike basis?
>>
>>1331977
You can take the important measurements and then recreate them on your new bike. It's not completely accurate, but it's accurate enough.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5lsfo-MrZ8
>>
>>1331975
Yes if you ride for fun. Also yes for commuting since you’re probably commuting on a road bike for sanic reasons.
>>
>>1331975
You won't notice any disadvantage if you've never used clipless. But if you have, and are used to clipless, I promise you that you'll never want to go back to flat pedals even on a commuter.
>>
>>1331977
Your body and fitness change over your life and one fit for a discipline might be sub optimal for another, especially when bar types change. But you can transfer fit between bikes and you you don’t plan on aging and want everything to fit the same it’s fine. Just go for an all rounder fit with comfort considered and it will work for a long time and most bikes of a bar type.
>>
>>1331984
STFU cager.
>>
>>1331981
>>1331983
I've only ever owned hard tails with flat pedals. I'll get a road bike soon since i now live somewhere where it's worth having one. I'm just planning ahead since I'll need to add the pedals (and shoes if they won't be flat) to my shopping list and therefore total budget.
SPD-SL pedals are a little too autistic for commuting. SPD pedals are fine since you can easily unclip and walk in the shoes needed to use them, but almost all SPD shoes look like they were designed to be worn with cargo shorts and metal band t-shirts.
>>
>>1331977
Unless there's money on the line, once per geometry, is enough, maybe once per decade. Perhaps less if you're a mutant freak who can't make it fit kind of person and not a performance rider.

>>1331975
If you have experience with modern road bike shoes and pedals, you'll obviously notice the difference.
>>
>>1331975
not really, no.
The benefits of clipless pedals are massively overstated by freds.
Get some good pinned plats and a grippy shoes and you'll be happy.
>>
Are campagnolo groupsets reliable? Do they tend to last less or have more problems than equivalent Shimano sets? Specifically Centaur, Potenza and Chorus.
>>
>>1332049
get outta here, Grant.
>>
would a basket look fine ? thinking wald 139
>>
>>1332039
> to be worn with cargo shorts and metal band t-shirts.
But you already said you MTB? You don't need foot retention, but you also don't need a road bike. It is part of the sanic gotta go fast road bike experience.
>>
>>1332112
on the back, sure.
>>
>>1332126
yoo but what about my sick ROS bags :((
>>
>>1332128
well you would have to lock out the front suspension to put the basket on there.
>>
>>1332130
wait
forgive my retard question but suspension? ive never felt a "bounce" on my front wheel
>>
>>1332131
...you didn't know that you had a suspension fork?
>>
>>1332133
i mean i see that i have a suspension fork...
i just uhh, it no bounce
>>
>>1332135
so it's either seized or locked out. you can keep it locked out and mount a front basket if you want.
>>
>>1332136
>seized or locked out
how would i unlock it? id much rather have it function properly than a basket
>>
>>1332138
you have to diddle the knobs on top of the fork.
>>
>>1332140
yea ive been messing with them but i dont know if its working, not to mention if im even turning them the right way
>>
>>1332142
https://www.bombshellparts.com/images/content/1386308216.0039.pdf
>>
>>1332144
thanks for your help brother
>>
So my rims are worn the fuck out and its time to replace them. Hubs are still in wonderful condition so I figured I'd have a go at lacing them onto new rims. I also wanted to get a slightly different rim. Can I reuse the old spokes if the difference in ERD is 1 mm? Had mavic open pros which are stated to be 602 erd and was thinking of trying velocity a23 which states 601 erd.
>>
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>>1332112
you actually can fit a basket and its a good idea
you just need to zip tie it on a rack which has a top platform.

and you need a rack with both mounts below where your fork compresses, like pic related, a blackburn outpost front rack, surly front rack, etc etc.

and with some you'll need to get some p-clamps for the upper mount on the fork, but that's easy enough.
>>
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as long as there isn't a mount point above the shock, the shock won't fuck the rack.
i wouldn't recommend a front rack if you're actually going offroad hard, but you're not right, so do it man
>>
>>1332187
I think its a pretty bad idea to re-use spokes at all
>>
>>1332191

Fuck, okay. What would happen? Will my shit blow up?
>>
Where do you gets get cycling clothes? I was thinking it would be nice to at least get a jacket in a cool color, maybe something to go with my bike's color scheme.
>>
>>1332194
>maybe something to go with my bike's color scheme.

You think this would be cool but its not
>>
>>1332196
My bike is blue and silver, so I was thinking light blue would go with it while also being somewhat high-vis. Would you just get something black then?
>>
>>1332194
at physical shops because fit is more important than specs or price
>>
>>1332199
yellow or orange if you really want visibility man
not red because it's a rage colour
>>
>>1332191
According to Immortan Jobst, it's ok to re-use spokes so long as you don't remove them from the hub: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/reusing-spokes.html
>>
>>1332205
hmmm ok maybe i was pulling stuff out of my ass
>>
>>1332051
My experience with Campag is that their stuff tends to be the most reliable and needs less frequent adjustment, although current gen Shimano is just as good except for the tight routing inside the shifter that causes the cable inside to fray and break after 3k-4k miles. Not a big deal if you replace cables every so often. The big downside with Campag is that parts availability and LBS support is poor at best, and always expensive. You can use Shimano 11sp cassettes and wheels and KMC chains to resolve that problem for the most part.
>>
>>1332210
>Shimano is just as good except for the tight routing inside the shifter that causes the cable inside to fray and break after 3k-4k miles.

didn't have an issue on my bike with cables until over 10000 km desu
>>
>>1332212
that anon was saying 1-2 thousand miles until recently lol
>>
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>>1332212
>werks on my computer
It's a well known problem. Shimano has tried to address by changing the cable coating to some sort of polymer, and by making changing the cables easier, but the tight bends around the shifter drum causes the cable to wear faster. Supposedly the same thing should happen to Campag 11sp because they have some tight routing inside of the shifter too, but I've never heard of it actually happening. It may be down to Campag's way lower market share, or maybe because users are more anal about routine maintenance.
>>
>>1332214
I never said that. I said that you should change every 2k miles or so as a form of preventative maintenance.
>>
>>1332122
When I'm not riding for fun, the road bike will be used to get me places. I can't always dress autistically. Anyway, I'll keep looking for decent shoes. Otherwise I'll go flat for commute and full SPD-SL autismo for fun.
>>
>>1332210
That's good. I thought maybe Campy vs Shimano was the same as italian vs japanese cars. A little more "prestige", way less reliability.
Availability isn't an issue since there are several authorized retailers nearby, and I'd be willing to pay slightly more because of some retarded reasons.
>>
My tire finally gave out after a decade.

How do I go about getting new ones? Do I go straight to the bike shop or should I order the tires myself and have them install it?
>>
>>1332330
You should order them yourself and install them yourself. It's easy as fuck.
>>
Should I let my LBS know that the bike they would offer me, I could spend 600$ less for the same bike on another store?

I feel somehow sorry for not buying from my lbs, I doubt they would sell it for less, though.

still, it'd would feel like I betrayed them
what do?
>>
Does each bicycle wheel actually need 30 something spokes on it these days? Most new bikes don't seem to have it.
>>
>>1332333
They're aware, they won't sell it for less only because you figured out internet is cheaper, there's plenty of other boomers who haven't
>>
>>1332333
most lbs are on the verge of shutting their doors you can't haggle with them it's like haggling with a bookstore

either patronize them or don't. don't sour the relationship incase you need a meme tool or something one day.
>>
>>1332331
It looks like a pain in the butt actually.
>>
I found a good offer, but...
Fuji Classic Track (2017), frame size is 54. My height is about 5'6-5'7 (~168cm). Can't test It, because ship from other city. Critical is the difference with respect to 52 frame size?
>>
>>1332354
it's too big for you
>>
>>1332351
are you crippled or something
>>
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>>1330951

Are there any Fuji Touring riders around? I am looking to replace the shitty Tektro mini v-brakes on my 2017 Touring but I remember reading about regular V-Brakes not working with the brake lever or something?

Can someone confirm that or is there a workaround? I have a set of Deore V-Brakes around that I would like to use
>>
>>1332596
they probably would work
just might not work that well with your levers

Try it, and if it doesn't work well, then get some linear pull levers like Tektro RL520

although also you could try better pads and cables on what you have, or go to cantis.
>>
>>1332596
DISK FORK MOTHER FUCKER
>>
>>1332596
>touring bike
>no mid fork eyelet
um what the fug?
>>
>>1332596
I have Deore V brakes on a bike with road levers. They do work, but will rub if your wheel is the slightest bit out of true (cause the pads need to almost touch the wheels). They're hard to adjust correctly and you'll have to adjust them 3 or 4 times per pad as the pads wear down to keep them close enough to the wheels. Braking performance is OK, modulation is poor. I constantly lock up my rear wheel even during careful braking. Would not recommend.
>>
>>1332600

Thanks, I'll give it a try

>>1332602

Are you saying I should get a different fork with disc brake mounts? That is more money than I want to spend at least at this time

>>1332604

It does have them. They must have shopped them out for some bizarre reason. At least mine has them

>>1332611

I'll give it a try. Thank you
>>
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How well would schwalbe super moto-x 2.4" or 2.8" do as an all-around tires to go anywhere (pavement, hardpack, etc.)? Not for an e-bike. From what I can gather they're sufficient as long as it's not muddy.
Acceleration and climbing aren't my main concerns so it's ok that they weight as much as they do.
>>
Is the Mason Definition 2 or BMC Roadmachine X better on tarmac? Are there even any bikes that can go on gravel and are suitable for commuting that have great handling and are fast on roads?
>>
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>>1331017
how much can I put lower pressure on a old 26 2.00 bike tyre and not drag along while maintaining some terrain reading? I put 26 but if i put something like 25 I feel like being dragged
>>
>>1332856
If 32c is sufficient for you, there are plenty. Bikes like the Roubaix and Infinito CV Disc and even a Dogma K will take 32 and have excellent handling on tarmac, albeit not as razor sharp as their skinnier-tire, more aggressive cousins. But, compared to bikes with slacker geo and wider tires, their handling on dirt will still be compromised. A bike like a Soma Fog Cutter with 650Bx48mm will do better on dirt and rough roads but will be noticably slower for smooth tarmac.

As with any hybrid it's about what compromises you're willing to make. Personally I think that going above 32 for general street and a little dirt is silly, while many "gravel" rides are fucking singletrack and you'd do better with a hardtail XC bike.
>>
>>1332187
It's going to work fine.
>>
>>1332917
Sorry, I didn't express myself well. I'll ride way more on tarmac than on dirt, so tarmac is the priority by far for me. The bad roads I'd go on are just dirt roads without any major bumps or rocks, but I would prefer having a bike that feels solid enough for me not to be afraid to take it through them and other, short, slightly worse paths. I'm considering 28mm tyres, at least when it's not winter. The ability to use the bike all around the year would also be nice, but not necessary.
Sorry, I feel like this post belongs in the buying general.
>>
>>1332856
>>1332932
The premise of your question is inherently flawed since you're operating on the assumption that road bikes generally can't be ridden on gravel - this is false, because as long as your riding position is comfortable and your frame will clear tires wide enough for your conditions, any bike can be a gravel bike.

>use all year round
Depends on local conditions - if you live somewhere wet, having disc brakes will be a big advantage. Mounts for full coverage fenders are a must unless you live in a desert climate. If you live near the arctic circle make sure your frame has clearance for tires with studs. And aside from that, what matters most for the longevity of parts in winter conditions is having well sealed bearings that don't admit water.

>suitable for commuting
Any bike can be used for commuting, though racy bikes with short stays are tough to fit racks to, and if you can't use panniers or a trunk bag that really limits your practical cargo capacity.
>>
>>1332949
>any bike can be a gravel bike.
The thing I am worried about is the durability of the frame on race bikes. Maybe it's illogical of me, but I assume that high stiffness plus thin tubes wouldn't fare well against moderate abuse over a period of let's say 5 years.

>Depends on local conditions
Western Germany, so it's definitely not desert climate. I wouldn't use my bike in the snow or on icy roads though, so clearance for studded tires isn't a necessity.

>though racy bikes with short stays are tough to fit racks to
Everything i need fits in my backpack. I said it should be suitable for commuting because of several opinions I've read and been told that race bikes can't take much abuse and the position they put you in isn't suitable for riding in the city. As you can notice I'm a pleb when it comes to race bikes though.
>>
>>1331220
You may need end caps as well.
>>
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Haven't rode my bike in a long time, used it for a while to go to uni, wanna get back in, but I need new tires and the handle bar is loose as fuck, I'm retarded I never assembled it properly and the pedals make a lot of creaking noise.
I don't have too much experience with bikes, was thinking of taking it to a bike shop for a tune up,how much do they generally cost?
also it was a fixie, I was thinking maybe getting a new bike got a budget of 500$ but I don't know about fixie, my area is full with actual steep hills.
what do? any bike recommendations?
>>
>>1333059
That's a cool photo, looks like it's on Lower Randolph moving westbound towards Michigan. Difficult to see clearly with the DoF, bokeh, and longer exposure value but I have severe maptism and make it a game to find places I recognize in random photos of my city. that underpass and bus is almost a clear giveaway for someone going to/from 41. I used to make this drive 2 dozen times or more a day driving taxi.
>>
I'm thinking of restoring a old steel Saba frame 64cm (Columbus steel) At 3kg is this a decent enough frame if in good condition? Aside from types of steel I'm confused what constituents a good frame. I would use the frame for weekend riding.

I read a sheldon article on building wheels and having less spokes on the front wheel. If I'm spending around £600 on the entire project is this worth it, or just for pro cycling? I think the wheels would cost around £200 to build as the rear spacing is 126mm and I don't want to cold press
>>
>>1333078
yeah for sure, if you're 6'4 +
you wouldn't even need to cold set either if you did go for a 130mm hub, you could just bend the rear triangle open each time to put the wheel in and out. It's totally fine.
>>
>>1333079
This is correct, spreading the rear dropouts 2mm each side to fit in a 130mm hub is easy and completely fine. Since you’re looking at restoring such a large frame I assume you’re a pretty big lad, so limiting yourself to 126mm freewheel hubs is less ideal than using 130mm freehubs. The driveside bearings on the latter are closer to the dropout which helps support the hub axle. Back when I was riding OTSs I weighed about 220-230 lbs and bent a few axles.
For spoke counts front vs. rear it really doesn’t matter as long as you have enough spokes in the rear wheel for your weight. Having the same in the front won’t hurt your performance in any measurable way so it’s not something to worry about in my opinion.
>>
>>1333081
I'm about 6"4 200lbs so I could ride a 62cm frame if I was okay with a higher seat post position? It might make a change as I use a bombproof 70s frame as a commuter that's 64cm.

I tried restoring the commuter I've got now for the first time but didn't do a great job. Replaced the steel wheels with cheap alloys that weren't very true and the headset Isn't perfect as i had to improvise without a press.

If I go with 130mm hubset do you know a good option for 700c wheels? I don't mind going with affordable new old stock shimanos but if there's modern options that would fit with a retro bike I'd be happy with that.
>>
>>1333124
Stop lying about your weight. You are definitely obese.
>>
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I've got an issue with my Pike.
It's often sitting sagged down 10% as in pic related with no weight on it
If I hold back on the fork crown and pull upwards it will sometimes hold at 0% as it should, sometimes it falls back to around 5-10%

It actuates quite well, feels ok, but this can't be right? Losing a bit of travel ain't ok.
>>
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I have a couple of questions, I'll ask them followed with pictures.

Is the part shown in the picture supposed to be lubricated? It is an adjustable butterfly bar.
>>
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>>1333167
Next question, is this Shimano chain directional or not? I took it off for cleaning, it is an 8 speed.
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>>1333173
Last question, is this jockey wheel worn or not? It looks fine to me, but I'm not too sure.
>>
>>1333167
It's supposed to be kept from seizing with grease.

>>1333173
Yes, the writing is supposed to be on the outside (facing you when you look at your drivetrain)

>>1333174
fine
>>
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>>1333176
>It's supposed to be kept from seizing with grease.

Alright, I'll clean it and put some grease on it.

>Yes, the writing is supposed to be on the outside (facing you when you look at your drivetrain)

But there is writing on both sides. See picture for the other side. Which side is supposed to be on the outside?

>fine

Good to hear.
>>
>>1333189
OK, if there's writing on both sides, then it doesn't matter. But that chain looks like it belongs in the bin anyway.
>>
>>1333193
I've ordered a new chain, Shimano Pro IG51. Until that arrives, I have no choice but to use the one I have.
>>
>>1333131
I'm a lanklet probably not even 200lb
>>
>>1333209
Whatever fatass.
>>
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I like to buy a new crankset. My current model is pic related (FC-T410/T411, 42T-32T-22T).

What should I look for, what other models would fit as well?
>>
>>1333173
No. Only 10+ speed Shimano chains are directional.

>>1333174
Its fine.

>>1333167
No.
>>
>>1333156
I'm not really an expert in suspension. But as far as I remember, Pikes have a positive/negative chambers filled via a single valve, and if oil leaks through one or another then such weird travel loss issues happen. The fork is most likely due for service.
>>
>>1333256

Any that fits your frame. FC-T410 is a square taper one, so replacing it requires sourcing a crankset that is mounted to the same BB axle ( length wise ). These days its most likely 113 or 122mm or thereabouts.

But FC-T410/411 uses 117.5mm, because FU.
>>
Is "bike wash" a meme? Can I use regular detergent or other household products to clean my bike?
>>
Is a Garmin GPS device (Edge 130) worth it over my phone+an Ant+ speed/HR sensor? Phone is an S10 btw.
>>
>>1333401
I use Zep citrus degreaser for the bits that get greasy, and Griots for the frame because it's what I use for my cute car. I fucking hate cleaning the wheels though.
>>
>>1333277
this is dreadful advice
he should change his bottom bracket as well anyway, because they're cheap and his is likely worn, plus not doing it and being restricted to a certain kind of square taper crank is just absurd

plus 'any that fits his frame' is also terrible advice. It's not helpful at all. And it's wrong, for example, if he's keeping a presumably 7 or 8 speed drivetrain he should avoid 11spd cranks.

>>1333256
>I like to buy a new crankset.
why?
>>
Can anyone recommend me a guide to re-adjust the rear deraillieur (2017 Shimano Acera) from ground up?
It's not shifting properly anymore. I click in gears but the chain often woun't jump until I click another.
I already cleaned everything.

>>1333173
This chain is fucking rusted. Just get a new one, they aren't expensive. Put oil on it the next time so it woun't rust again like this.

>>1333174
Doesn't really matter because it's not handling any forces.
>>
>>1333494
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html
>>
>>1333401
>Is "bike wash" a meme?
Yes.

>Can I use regular detergent
Laundry detergent is too strong.

> or other household products to clean my bike?
As a general rule, you can use the same shortcuts the car people do. Just keep in mind things like the drivetrain, bottom bracket, wheel hubs.

Don't fall for the acetone on the carbon fiber bike thing.
>>
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>>1333467
>why?

Here is a picture of the crank teeth, how does it look? If it doesn't need replacing, then I won't.
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>>1333555

How about the cassette? Replace or not replace? How do I know when to replace?
>>
>>1333555
replace the chainrings then, not the cranks

>>1333556
they look ok
>>
>>1333555
replace the middle chainring, large one can't tell, small one is OK. You don't need to replace the entire crankset even if they all are worn. Just buy new chainrings.

>>1333556
looks fine. they're worn if the corners on the teeth are noticeably rounded off.
>>
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>>1333494
>This chain is fucking rusted. Just get a new one, they aren't expensive. Put oil on it the next time so it woun't rust again like this.

Bought a new one, Shimano Pro IG51. I have waxed the one I have until the new chain arrives, it has stretched >1,00 anyway.

>Doesn't really matter because it's not handling any forces.

OK.

>>1333559
OK.

>>1333560
Here's the large ring. I'll buy new middle chainring, does it have to be Shimano? Current one is Shimano.
>>
>>1333562
Large one needs to go, too. It doesn't need to be Shimano, but it needs to have the same Bolt Circle Diameter (google it) and number of bolts, obviously.
Same number of teeth too, if you don't want to change gearing.
>>
>>1333571
I might as well buy all three chain rings figuring that the current smallest would also wear out over time.
>>
>>1333555
how do I avoid this? does it eventually wear off for everyone?
>>
>>1333606
>how do I avoid this?
Mount a new chain when your old one is stretched by 0.75% (use a chain wear indicator).
But yeah, eventually, chainrings wear out, too.
>>
>>1333609
usually about 3000km or even less?
>>
>>1333562
price a new crank. You'll want a new cassette and new chain too.
Alivio FC-T4060
& a hollowtech II bb (cheap) might be not much more than just new rings.
>>
Why does it seem like everyone laughs at Claris? Sure it's the lowest groupset but it can't be that bad compared to 105 or Ultegra right?
>>
>>1333723
Why would anyone buy 105 if Claris wasn't that bad?
>>
>>1333723
The latest Claris group (R2000, not the one pictured on your image) is very nice. It shifts reliably. Aside from being heavier, the only major fault it has compared to 105/Ultegra are the brakes which are subpar.
>>
>>1331469
57 cm isn't that big
>>
>>1333751
t. obese fatfuck
>>
>>1332596
Shimano makes good mini-v that will work.
>>
>>1333723
On important thing to keep in mind is that a shifting system either shifts gears or it doesn't. There really is no efficiency or anything else in there. Ultrega has to be adjust just the same way as Claris.
The work is done by the cogs and the chain, the shifters only jump the chain to other places.

>>1333733
Marketing mostly.
And 105 is a closely looked at groupset by public so if that fails shimano is in trouble. When Claris fails shimano can say "Well, told you to buy 105 instead".
But the differences are very small, besides the extra gears.
>>
I just put a presta inner tube on schrader sized rims. Added some tape to make the valve thicker.

Will by bike explode and fold in half?
>>
>>1333764
you forgot the arrow
>>
>>1333562
your large shows some wear but there's still some life in it.
middle must go.
I'd change the large next time you replace the chain.
or if the chain starts skipping on the big but not the new middle or small, replace big for sure and maybe chain depending on wear.
>>
>>1333782
somewhat agree but better groups tend to shift more cleanly and faster, although modern groups have probably reached equilibrium in that regard? But the old bikes on the used market will definitely show you that 105 and up has comparatively nicer shifting.
>>
>>1333785
I did something similar a few years back, no problems. I think I used some old inner tube rubber, I can't remember.
>>
>>1333812
thoughts on electronic shitfers? are they way more reactive/faster?
>>
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How worn is this big chainring? Is there much life left?
>>
>>1333817
never used any, personally.
>>
>>1333818
neither ring seems very worn at all
>>
>>1333817
They're one of those things where your team's coach will tell you if you need them. If you don't ride for a team with a coach, you don't.
>>
>>1333818
Outer ring shows a bit of wear. If it's perfectly symmetrical, I'd mount it the other way around to wear the other side of the teeth. If it isn't, leave it.

It's a Dura Ace chainring, it doesn't make any sense to replace it before you absolutely have to, and by then, you'll notice.
>>
>>1333467
>he should change his bottom bracket as well anyway, because they're cheap and his is likely worn, plus not doing it and being restricted to a certain kind of square taper crank is just absurd

I implied that he should do just that.

>>1333467
>plus 'any that fits his frame' is also terrible advice.

Do you know ( or, knew when you were scribbling this post ) what does he want to do? You can run 11 speed chain on 8 speed rings and vice versa. Cranks are pretty agnostic when it comes to "speedness" of the bike.
>>
>>1333555
>>1333562

Big ring is fine, small is fine, middle is on death's door.

>>1333562
>I'll buy new middle chainring, does it have to be Shimano?

Preferably it should be both Shimano and for this specific crankset. But you can replace it with just about anything that fits ( 104mm BCD ) but you can expect some loss of shifting quality.
>>
>>1333606
You don't. Rings and cassettes always wear out not in an uniform way. Smaller rings wear faster then larger, aluminium wears faster then steel. You can minimize this on the cassette by choosing a proper gear spread - one that fits your riding, but rings are usually a lost cause.
>>
>>1333723
People with too much money laugh at others. Claris is fine, just heavy and 8-speed. But maintaned well will serve for a long while.
>>
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>>1333876
So how much of a difference in riding would ultegra or dura-ace make? Let's say on flats.

I'm trying to talk myself out of pic related, becasue instead of dropping cash on this I could pay off some debt but fuck do I want it.
>>
>>1333878
Buying toys with borrowed money is like, a definition of being silly.

There is no perceptable difference between DA and 105, or Tiagra even ( gear count not withstanding ) - apart from weight and possibly some ergonomical quirks ( hood shape etc ). DA cassette is, actually, poorer choice then an ultegra, because titanium cogs tend to wear out faster then steel ones.
>>
>>1333878
Dura ace usually loses durability in exchange for weight for race day performance. We're talking about very small gains for racers who have exhausted other ways of getting performance.

>>1333878
>I'm trying to talk myself out of pic related, becasue instead of dropping cash on this I could pay off some debt but fuck do I want it.

You should tuck and draft. Make your move after you pay your debts. Give the disc brake and axle standards a moment to settle in.
>>
>>1333883
I wish that Shimano would make the difference between 105, Ultegra, and DA at least a little perceptable, because the levers all feel so bloody cheap now. They all shift well of course but the higher end ones should at least feel a bit more premium.
>>
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i take a nasel spray 2 sprays a day because my nose always runs
it helps a lot
i just realized that it's a steroid
beclometasone dipropionate and each spray has 50 micrograms in it

does this... make me faster?
>>
>>1334021
Take too much of it and I'd bet you'll fail doping control. Actually, that one might be only legal via inhaler.
>>
>>1334044
>excuse me sir we noticed you just cat 6d that guy suspiciously hard between stoplights
>could you come with us for a blood test
>>
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>>1334047
>he's never gotten spot checked for outrunning the TdF while hustlin Deliveroo
>>
>>1334021
>i take a nasel spray 2 sprays a day
Dude, watch out with that. I know 2 people who got addicted to nasal spray. One had to get a nose surgery because his nose septum got trashed by spray abuse.

>realized that it's a steroid
Steroids will theoretically enhance muscle growth so it'll indirectly make you faster. Check a roids forum on what the substances do specifically in what dosage.

Some nasal sprays have epinephrine in them which will actually make you faster.
But if you're into PEDs just go for the classics. Aphetamine, Heroin etc. Don't do meth, it's neurotoxic.
>>
Old question and I'm surely overthinking it, but I'm wondering about my saddle height.
I recently discovered the "heel method" but when I apply it my saddle is way lower than usual.. Then I did a quick test ride and it wasn't uncomfortable I must say.
How do you guys proceed ?
>>
>>1334072
The heel method doesn't give you exact saddle height but pretty close. When I do the heel method, it still feels a little low so I always raise by 0.5cm or so to where it feels perfect, also depends what shoes I'm wearing too.

Fitment is weird. Every body has different proportions and habits so you'll need to adjust and revisit often. It also takes time for you to adjust to new fitment so give it more than just one or two rides around the block.
>>
I hear some noise from my rare wheel. I usually hear it when I go at a slow pace, but sometimes not at all. My suspects are: break pads touching the wheel, fender touching the wheel, spokes are loose or somewhat grind together or something. I think I can look into the first two but im unsure how to determine if a spoke is tight enough. I mean they do feel more lose compared to the rock solid ones on the front wheel, but they are not as lose as the ones they show in example videos. Anyway, what else should I check?

Bonus: my wife nags me that I spend too much time with the bike. Cleaning the gears with special cleaners, getting new break pads regularly, oiling up the chains weekly etc. This is unheard of for her. She says people just buy bikes and don't do a thing for the first five years. Is she right? Am I overreacting over tiny nuances or perhaps bought a shitty bike or am I doing good for trying my best to keep it healthy.
>>
>>1334083
Your wife wants you to pay more attention to her. You're buying all kinds of special soaps and oils for your bike and rub it on there, but you don't do the same for her.
>>
>>1333668
depends heavily on your riding conditions and maintenance schedule, might be 2000km, might be 5000+ if you treat it ride and only ever ride in the dry.
>>
Do you guys greet other road bikers when you see them?
Like that small wink with the left hand on the drop bar.
I think its a cool culture and I always do it.
>>
>>1334105
Only if it's a somewhat deserted area where you don't come across other cyclists too often
Not women though since they never wave back.
>>
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>>1334105
I do, when there's no one else in the area, I also greet civilians
>>1334134
>Not women though since they never wave back
What's wrong with them?
>>
>>1334141
>What's wrong with them?
If they show any attention to a lone male cyclist on a deserted road, they risk that you're going to turn around and follow them.
>>
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>>1334142
Theses pretentious bitches...
>>
>>1334142
>it's ok to be rude because someone might talk to me
I see now why corrective rape therapy is a thing
>>
>>1333764
is this a manlet that thinks anyone taller than 5’10” is obese?
>>
>>1334105
if someone (anyone) waves to me, i acknowledge them with a nod if i don't want to take my hand off the bars, or use the motorcycle-style hand drop. i try to wave first to the cyclists i admire most - based old guy roadie, tourers, fellow surly bros, any handicapped/disabled cyclist, or anyone on a cool or unusual bike.
>>
>>1333785
this is the one time you should use presta valve threaded washer thing to hold the valve in place
>>
>>1334149
>it's ok to be rude because someone might rape me
FTFY
>>
>>1334149
kys
>>
>>1334105
i like to banter with other random cyclists like im racing them
>>
>>1333878
Once you hit 105 the only benefit afterwards is weight.

As long as you don't buy really old, not high tier stuff or the lowest rung of shimano/SRAM the only thing that isn't good is the brakes, but a lot of premade bikes use something other than them anyway (which is worse)
>>
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>>1334083
It was the fender. Im mad and glad at the same time that it was something this stupid.

>>1334105
I'm a tourer and a roadie did a nod once so I'm doing that ever since except when I'm commuting.
>>
I'm considering building my own road bike wheels but I'm a complete noob, never built a set in my life. Would it be dangerous to ride on them? Is it possible to fuck something up during the building process that would only be noticeable or problematic once I'm riding on them? Are there any parts of the process that require experience instead of simply following instructions?
>>
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>>1333837
poorfags, when will they learn?
>>
>>1334202
Considering that I have a week-old handbuilt from a guy who is supposed to be decent at it, and it's already starting to go taco for some reason, I'd say that yeah it's possible to fuck something something up during the build that you won't notice until the ride. A lot of the process comes down to dialing the tension just right for the spoke count and rim, and as a wheelbuilder you start getting used to certain combos of rim, spoke, and hub. I'm wondering if the guy I went to used a good tensionmeter and mapped the wheel properly.
>>
>>1334214
Alright, thanks, guess I'll go for prebuilt wheels. I can't find good aluminum wheels suitable for rim brakes that aren't very heavy or expensive, so I thought I'd try and build a pair.
>>
>>1334202
guy, I don't think it's wise to build a wheel before you've got several successful wheel-truings under your belt. Ones that you've ridden and which remained true over many miles.
I would NOT ride your noob wheel even if you gave it to me for free.
>>
What crankset do I need, in order to ride my bike around 45 km/h on a flat with 70-80 cadence?
Cog is usually only goes down to 11 anyways.

All these gravel bikes only have 1 chain ring and they are usually sized 40T.
And according to some calculators, I wouldn't even reach 40km/h without spinning my legs like a tornado.
>>
>>1331437
The original Shimano Mountain LX. Sorry for the late reply. They're really stiff and the front doesn't want to give me the full range using the modern brifter's pull length.
>>
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I am having knee pains. My right foot naturally angles toes outwards pretty drastically. Should I adjust my cleats drastically so my foot points outwards when I'm clipped in as well?
>>
>>1334299
Your cadence is too low, moron. 40x11 gives you almost 42 kph at 90 rpm. Also, that's not what gravel bikes are for in general, and definitely not ones with a 1x.
>>
>>1334360
Yes
Careful of heel strike though
>>
>>1334154
Yeah, did that. Still added some tape to be sure.
>>
>>1334375
issi (and a couple of other companies) make pedals with extra length spindles for this sort of thing
>>
>>1334360
I had this, and it kept me away from clipless for a couple of years. Completely got rid of the issue just by moving the cleats closer to the inside of my foot. Didn't even have to change the angle... the extra room was all I needed.
>>
What is squaring on a tire, and are these a good deal

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bontrager-R3-Hard-case-Lite-Road-Tires-2-700x25/202666004608
>>
>>1334419
These are only a bit more, what's so special about this particular tire over others? They seem to be the most popular.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Two-Continental-Grand-Prix-4000s-II-Folding-Bicycle-Tires-700-X-25c-Black-road/264330304430
>>
>>1334421
>>1334419
Buying used tires from some dude on the internet seems like the worst idea. The GP4K is pretty much the gold standard of performance road bike tires, though now they have the 5K that's supposed to be better in every respect and is available in a tubeless option. The R3 is decent, though Bontrager just revamped them a few months ago so I'd get the new version.
>>
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>>1334419
>>
>>1334375
>>1334394
>>1334398
Thanks guys. I have noticed striking my heel against the crank and chainstays when changing. Will experiment some more and hopefully I'll find something suitable over time
>>
>>1334299
you need a double
>>
Is there a way to find out if tires will clear my frame before I order them?

Like a specific measurement I can take and a database of at least some popular tires with these measurements?

I'm one of the poorfags who want wider tires than 23 on my vintage road bike.
>>
>>1332342
I'll take the lack of response as a yes
>>
>>1334738
If you’re fat, yes
>>
gonna repost because I ghosted for the weekend for work after I posted my question initially.

I got 21 speed microshit brake shifters on an old bike. Any recommendations for cheap but adequate derailleur set?

The old derailleurs currently on the bike have too strong a spring, even with the limits properly set. It currently has the original Shimano Mountain LX derails.
>>
>>1334707
650B conversion, friend
>>
>>1334707
I would just buy the ones you want, and return them if they don't clear properly. Seems likely most will fit, but I don't know my arse from my crankshaft.

I have a 12mm inner width rear rim. The old rotted tire is 20mm. None of the size charts have 12mm on them, but I'm guessing a 23mm tire would be OK.
>>
>>1334747
no bueno, hermano
I need to keep those wheels
>>
>>1334707
Keep in mind that most 25s are vanity sized and when fully inflated and measured with calipers are really 28s.

One of the few that acually measures 25 on a caliper when fully inflated is the Conti GT 5000. The Conti GT 4000 measures 27-ish.

Keep this in mind when buying tires.
>>
>>1334826
I don't care how wide they are in mm, I just want to find the widest I can fit.
>>
>>1334829
that's my point my dude, they are like women's dresses. You don't know whether they'll fit until you throw them on. Or just ask your LBS and pay the $20 per tire 'local business' tax. They'll be able to give you multiple choices.

Since you may have to return a few to biketiresdirect or amazon do yourself a favor and buy folding bead so they are easier to return.
>>
>>1334829
>>1334834

You may be able to find a 28 that fits (that is actually a 28 when inflated) but you are more likely to be able to fit a 'vanity sized' 25 on there that calipers at 27 or so. Like the Conti 4000 that I mentioned earlier.

Bonus for the conti 4000 being on steep discount because the freds all want to buy the 5000.
>>
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recently bought a 2018 Strada Vita Uno and I'm looking for recommendations:

I want to add a rear rack and get a bag to put on it.

Also need a cap for the thing where the air goes in and out of the tire. What are they called?

Also need an air pump and a good bicycle lock

pls help pic related is the same bike as mine
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>>1334919
>rear rack and get a bag

I like racks with a double bar like the Tubus Logo. It'll carry the weight of side bags lower and you'll be free to mount a racktop bag or a milk crate or whatever. But that's assuming you want side bags. As for bags, it kind of depends on what you wanna carry. There's side bags: these are good if you want to be able to take them off the bike and might want a lot of capacity. They have racktop bags for if you don't need too much, just like a lock and pump and lunch. There's racktop bags that have side bags that unzip and fold out, they're not as good but nice if you only rarely need extra volume. You can also zip tie a milk crate to the top of the rack and just throw a backpack in there, maybe keep some straps if you think you might want to hang something off the side.

>need a cap for the thing
You have presta valves, so there's no need for valve caps. The screw bit is more than sufficient.

>need an air pump
Portable or a floor pump?

>good bicycle lock
A u lock and a cable is good. Use the U to lock your rear rim anywhere inside the rear triangle, or if you can also fit your seatstays in there is good. Use the cable to lock your front wheel. Abus, Kryptonite, OnGuard, pretty much any of the big names are good, get something at least mid-range.
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>>1334933
ty for info.

for the air pump...under what conditions would i need a portable one? basically I use the bike to go from home to work to home to the gym and back... About 15-20km in a day.
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Are old schwinns actually any good? My dad rants about how “back in his day” they were nice and now they’re chink shit.

I’m skeptical
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>>1334961
They were never great. Some of them were passable. The reason boomers like them is they were basically the only available brand for decades due to protectionism. There were one or two limited production bikes, well beyond the budget or means of the average schwinn customer, which were fancy racing bikes. Usually schwinnfags will mention these indignantly, as if their existence makes up for the terrible damage schwiinn did to American cycling culture
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>>1334957
When you have to repair a flat and you're far enough away from home that there's no good options for getting back without an operational bike and you need to repair. My Lezyne Pressure Drive has served me well in that regard.
>>1334961
Most were quite crap for anything other than basic transportation. Some were excellent.
>>1334969
American cycling culture was on death's door before the Varsity. Schwinn saved it. Even if there were tarriffs on European bikes, there was nothing stopping other American companies from competing with Schwinn, other than framebuilding becoming a near-lost art. But we've had this argument before and your paranoid hateboner for Schwinn will never go away, so I dunno why I bother.
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>>1334707
Calipers. But that's not the whole story, since if you have old rims with 13mm internal width, "25mm" tires will wind up measuring more like 23mm when inflated due to the effect the rim's width has on them. And then of course some manufacturers measure width using guesswork, like Panaracer and their Paselas, which almost never measure the stated width regardless of rim. Usually they're wider.
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>>1334969
*ahem*
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>>1335018
The Paramount is special... but there's controversy behind the fall of Paramount. Some say the downfall is Schwinn's corporate nature stripping the soul from Paramount while others say Paramount couldn't handle the industrial capacity that Schwinn is capable of garnering. I wasn't born then so I don't know the full story. Sounds interesting some boomer can share us.

>>1334961
>>1334969
I heard the Chicago made Schwinns were quite good during their days.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/chicago-schwinns.html
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>>1335024
https://waterfordbikes.com/w/culture/paramount/

schwinn did sell some pretty nice other bikes too like pic related which was built in Japan and equiped with Dura Ace before Dura Ace was a thing.
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>>1334744
There is a strong chance that you are misdiagnosing the problem.

Make sure the derailer pivots are lubricared and move freely, and that the cable is not getting stuck.

It’s also more likely that your shifters are trash.
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>>1334835
>>1334826
Why the fuck is literally every measure regarding bike wheels not the nominal?

28" wheels? - nah, when measured it's less than that with road bike tires
622mm rim diameter? - nah, thats the tyre inner diameter
Actual rim outer diameter? - who the fuck knows
25mm tyre width? - nah, this figure isn't measured at nominal pressure. Well except for maybe some models.
29" Wheels? - nah they're the same 622mm rim which isn't actually 622mm
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been rained in for days now. how cheap can I get a rain-proof cycling jacket?
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>>1335090
www.rapha.com
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>>1335090
~$50 will get you an ok cycling shell off wiggle or something

you could spend a bit more and just get a non-cycling rain shell from a decent outdoorwear brand, as long as it's thin, not too restrictive and ideally only has a breast pocket.
It won't be as aero, and it won't stuff in a jersey pocket, but it will be more waterproof and useful for other things.
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>>1335095
Fuck. I've got under $30 in the bank and no job right now. I guess I'll just wait for a nicer day.
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>>1335096
buy something cheap if you want, im sure you can find something for that much, just don't expect it to last or be that good its still going to work to an extent
and if you waterproof spray it, like all jackets, it will work better.

do you really not have a rain jacket of any kind?
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>>1335098
I've got hoodies and heavy winter jackets. I don't think I have anything lightweight just meant for rain.
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>>1335101
hit up thrift stores
you'll find a rain shell for a couple bucks
then spray it
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>>1335102
That's a good idea. What's this spray you keep talking about, though?
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>>1335104
it's pretty self evident what it is lol
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>>1335104
Gore tex spray. It waterproofs boots.
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>>1335090
Check running jackets at kohls. I use a fila running jacket in rain. Running jackets are made out of same material at half the cost
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>>1335090
In case you're a germanfag, Aldi has bicycle rain clothes this week in store
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>>1335049
it's already a frankenbike so i had the whole thing onced over at a LBS to make sure everything was fitting good. he did a pretty good job.

and yeah, they're microshifts. everything from microshift (besides the straight-to-bike bulk-tier stuff you cant buy individually) is /fine/
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>>1335067
It's annoying as shit when you have to order over the internet because all the biek shops are an hour away. I'm going to order some cheap ones for now and hope they fit right. I don't need a $70 performance edge tire because I'm not racing.
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>>1335156
>I don't need a $70 performance edge tire because I'm not racing.
tyres are the single most important component on any bike and cheaping out on them is cucking yourself hard

high end ones don't just give you less weight and rolling resistance, the grip and ride comfort is massively improved as well
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>>1335156
and it's not 'annoying' if you're a poorfag that you have to order online and save money
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>>1335156
I actually have Michelin Dynamic Classics in 28mm and they're good.

>>1335165
>high end
>less weight
>less rolling resistance
>comfort improved

It's not as simple as that. You're claims would come in compromise of a massive puncture vulnurabillity

And comfort kinda only increases when the rubber is thicker (more weight) or at decreased tyre pressure (independent of tyre price)

Expensive tyres score when it comes to traction in tight corners

>>1335166
you didn't get his point
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>>1335138
The thing is when you say "the spring is too strong", doesn't really make sense. This is what the guy at the bike shop told you? Exactly what is not working right? Be very specific.
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>>1335067
There's nothing nominal about ETRTO rim sizes. 622 mm rims are 622 mm.
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>>1335170
thicker rubber is not more comfortable. if that were true, marathon plus would be the most comfy tire.
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My dad gave me this bike years ago and i haven't used it much. I know nothing about bikes and i want to sell it. How much can i get for this?
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>>1335268
It's a 10 year old bike that cost $2k new.
Value will depend a lot on condition and if it's been tampered with.

There's one of this exact model in my local classifieds in "unridden, like new condition" for $1k that no one's bought for a year.
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>>1335268
tree fiddy
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I was recently gifted a second hand trek fx1, which after having a read through here seems pretty shitty. Is there any part upgrades worth making on this or just get rid of it and buy something new?
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>>1335522
nice tyres
a rack maybe
if the bearings aren't smooth, you could service them
new chain
could recable maybe

'upgrades' no not really
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>>1335522
upgrading a bike hardly ever makes sense, apart from tires and brake pads. With better tires, you can improve the ride of a cheap bike a lot for $60.
That, and saddle/stem/pedals, but that's not really an upgrade, more of a fitting in case it's not comfy.
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>>1335522
unless you have a crack habit and really need 150 bucks put competent tires on it, lube everything and use it for comfy crushed limestone MUP rides and drunk riding
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>>1335528
Upgrading a bike makes lots of sense if you already have a nicer but older road bike with classic geometry that fits you well.
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I recently got into riding a couple of weeks ago and I've done a few hundred kms, but I don't know a lot about bikes.

Is there a kind of quick guide for noobs? I don't know much terminology (although it's easy enough to pick up) or about bike maintenance. The bike I have is literally from the tip but it looks ok at least.

Started doing a little uber eats to see if it's viable too. It's ok for now but for the long term I'm not sure.

Pic related isn't the best pic but it's what I'm riding. Rides ok but I'm having trouble getting the back brake not to rub, and the rear derailleur clicks when it's on the lowest gear. I'm pretty sure everything needs adjusting too.
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>>1334142
>>1334164
But the odds are tiny, men suffer the vast majority of violent crime. Are men less aware of the odds or more likely to ignore them?
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>>1335553
Generally watch youtube videos where people assemble bikes and read wikipedia etc about bike components etc.

You saddle is horribly misallinged. Adjust it so it's parallel to the ground.
Your handlebar is also tilted upwards. Adjust it so that the lower tubes are about parallel to the ground.

>trouble getting the back brake not to rub
needs adjustment

>rear derailleur clicks when it's on the lowest gear
needs adjustment, potentially tightening the shifting bowden a bit

If you're not the mechanics kinda guy which I'm assuming you can give the bike to a shop to get it adjusted.
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>>1335560
>If you're not the mechanics kinda guy which I'm assuming you can give the bike to a shop to get it adjusted.
I'm fine with mechanics but I don't know much about bikes. Don't have coin for a shop right now and I doubt it's worth getting much done on an old bike from out of the trash.

I've been checking wiki and YT so far. Thanks for the rest of the tips!
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>>1335564
It's worth completely restoring it short of repainting and it won't cost you much if you do it yourself

sheldonbrown and parktools
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>>1335560
read up on the Sheldon Brown website. lots of info to browse, including repairs.
parktool.com has great repair instructions with videos, which are all on youtube.

yeah, level that saddle. you may need to raise the seat post, read the sheldon article on saddles, and just how to fit generally.
never seen that make before, which makes me think it may be an old boutique brand. it looks more high-quality than a department store BSO, but it could be that, too. pic makes it hard to tell. we'd need a better pic from the drive side to check the components
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I figure this is the best place to ask and i didn't want to pollute such a comfy board with more single-question threads, but I'm looking for recommendations/help in planning a cycling trip in Quebec, Canada. My friend and I want to take visit some breweries, camping along the way. Has anybody here done a similar trip in this area, or have some suggestions?

We would be going for 4-5 days and could probably do 60-70km per day. I've got lightweight shit for camping and I've done a bunch of long canoe trips before, but never bike camping.
Posting bike pic for visibility - its the old bike ive had since highschool.



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