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/bqg/ - Bike Questions General

Last thread: >>1321385

/n/ Discord: https://discord.gg/z5pdNh2

Resources:
https://sheldonbrown.com/
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
https://booksdescr.com/item/detail/id/1444747

If you want help picking out a bike to purchase, ask in >>>/n/bbg
>>
I asked something related to this build on the last thread but I want to ask a more general question now.
I have this build in mind:
-Cinelli Experience Speciale frameset
-Campagnolo Potenza drivetrain
-Fizik Cyrano 00 seatpost
-Fizik Cyrano R1 handlebar and stem
-Fizik Aliante R1 large saddle
-Maybe Campagnolo Shamal Ultra wheels
Haven't decided on the tyres

Should I bother with that build for that relatively cheap frame? Or should I go for something like a Bowman Palace:R, go for Ultegra and change some of the other components?
>>
>>1324971
I would go for Chorus instead, because Ultrashift is quite nice to have for dumping gears when you blast off on a sprint or go from big to small.
>>
>>1324975
Do you think it's okay to spend that much on components for that frame? I feel a little silly having a 2.5k+ Euro build where only 500€ went to the frame, but maybe I'm wrong. I actually hope I am, because I really like that frame.
>>
>>1324978
If you like the frame then who gives a fuck how much it cost? Build it up however you like.
>>
>>1324971
I had Campagnolo on my last bike and trying to find chains and rear cassettes locally was annoying if not impossible, moot point if you order everything online anyway.
I switched back to Shimano on my current bike, like it better. However, I do tend to break when trying to shift the front ring to the larger gear. Hopefully that goes away with practice.

As for your frame, if you like it and it's showing no signs of fatigue or wear then I'd say for it. Frames are as perishable as some other parts though, they can develop cracks over time, particularly if they aren't built the best or if they're built super light.
>Is it okay
Sure, whatever dude. I'd just buy a new bike though.
>>
>>1325071
There are several Campagnolo authorized retailers in my vicinity, so that's not a problem.
I don't have the frame, I plan on buying a new one (on sale now for about 520€), that's why I mentioned the Palace:R. I got the chance to try it, I like the way it looks and rides and for some reason I am craving a full italian build, hence Cinelli, Campagnolo and Fizik.
>>
>>1324978
Sure. Pairing good but still reasonably priced frames with excellent components is something that I wish that OEMs would do. Oh and since Campy just announced 12sp Chorus I bet that 11sp prices are going to go down a nice bit.

But since Chorus now has a subcompact and 11-34 option, I'll be looking for a reasonably priced grabblememe frame for myself.
>>1325071
You can use Shimano 11sp freehubs & cassettes and generic 11sp chains for 11sp Campy. 12sp not yet, but I suspect that it'll wind up being the same once Shimano figures out how to do 12sp. But it's true that if you're outside of Europe, finding Campy support at local shops is difficult to impossible. Not sure what the situation is in Europe although I know that even there they have a tiny market share. I've heard that everyone except for a few luddites is moving to ebikes there, and the lack of Campy options on those bikes, I wonder how much longer the company will last. I guess that's why they're jacking 12sp prices sky high.

And no, it doesn't go away with practice so you have to make your brakes looser to compensate for that tendency, while with Campy and SRAM you can have brakes actuate as soon as you move the lever even slightly inwards, which is nice for
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>>1324940
why do I look so bad with a helmet
>>
>>1325856
It's not the helmet, anon.
>>
>>1325856
Because you bought a cheap one
>>
>>1325856
Get oversized sunglasses.
Zoom out.
>>
>>1325856
the only person who cares what you look like with a helmet on is you
>>
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i grabbed a fixed gear bike for practically free and im fixing it up a bit. I got new tires and when i put them on and tightened the bolts the wheel moves to the side so it grinds against the frame. I cant seem to get it to sit straight. What am i doing wrong?
>>
>>1325912
Did it work before you took it apart?
>>
can i use the dishwashing stuff to clean disc brakes? i dont have any special brake cleaning liquids here and dont believe that its sold anywhere.
>>
>>1325925
and it looks like the issue when i brake it feels like parts of the disc is covered in oil or something.. it looks clean but instead of constantly slowing down it goes maybe 2cm normal braking 2cm sliding and then braking again. it just feels horrible
>>
>>1325912
the chain tension pulls it to the side. either you need little adjustment screws in your dropouts to hold it in place or you just need to hold the wheel centered while tightening the axle lock nuts. You do have lock nuts and not quick release skewers, right?
>>
>>1325922
it had a smaller wheel before so it prolly had the same issue but i didnt notice
>>1325929
just regular nuts. I held it in place while tightening but then it jerks to the side when i let go.
>>
>>1325941
>I held it in place while tightening but then it jerks to the side when i let go.
It can be a bitch to get right and you need to tighten the fuck out of those nuts while also pushing the wheel sideways against the chain tension.
>>
>>1325925
>>1325926
Use isopropyl alcohol. If you do use dish soap, use some natural stuff like Seventh Generation, the kind you'd find in the natural foods section or a co-op. Some people use that. But I prefer isopropyl alcohol. However, that's not necessarily going to solve your problem. If your pads are contaminated, they're hard to clean. Sometimes a torch (open flame) will clean pads, but oftentimes you just have to replace the pads. The rotors can be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol (if you replace the pads, make sure to clean the rotors after removing the old pads before removing the new pads to avoid cross contamination from old pads to new pads, if they have oil or whatever on them).
It could also just be that your pads are worn down or that your brakes are in need of adjustment. With disc brakes, even if you think they're not bottoming out because the brake lever doesn't hit the bar, there's another place they could be bottoming out: If the rotating part of the brake calliper hits the fixed part of the brake calliper, that means you need to use the pad adjuster(s) to move the brake pad(s) inward and, potentially, also add some slack to the cable.
>>
>>1325912
Sometimes tightening a nut will pull the wheel to one side so you really have to hold the wheel in place when tightening them down, and it may be helpful to alternate. Turn one nut a little, then the other, and keep going back and forth. Or alternatively, if one nut is going to pull the wheel to the left when you tighten it down, first tighten the other nut all the way with the wheel intentionally tilted to the right. That way when the other nut is tightened down, it will pull it leftward and center it.
>>
>>1326028
>>1325949
thanks guys.
>>
>>1325925
Brake clean. Carb clean will do too.
>>
>>1325912
>>1325941
Do what anon says. Also double check the hub for too much play. Tighten with cone wrenches if needed.
>>
i took the wheel off of my mtb and squeezed the brakes just to see what would happen ( when someone tells me to not do something i do it) and now the brakes are all fucked, will i have to do a bleed. guide rsc 4 piston breaks the pistons come out a little and dont really return and rub against the disc, i will have to bleed right? RIGHT? RIGHT??

should i just junk the whole bike?
>>
>>1326170
Yes, you've introduced air to your brakeline, now you need to bleed the system. Routine bleeding is perfectly normal for bikes that have reached puberty, it's nothing to be concerned about.
>>
>>1326170
bleed nigga bleed
>>
>>1326170
It depends how far the pistons came out. Did you pull the brake lever several times, or just once? I'm guessing not too many times if you were still able to get the wheel and rotor back in. Take a CLEAN slotted screwdriver and insert it between the pads, then move it back and forth to kind of push the pistons back in. When you do this and put your wheel back in, the first few times you pull the brake lever, it will pull almost all the way to the grip as the pistons come back out to where they should be and grab the rotor.

If that doesn't work and it still feels mushy after that, you probably need to bleed it.
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>>1324940
Need help identifying an old muscle bmx and a 24" chromoly cruiser, heres the bmx.
>>
>>1324940
And the cruiser
>>
If i spraypaint my helmet with stencil will it break it
>>
>>1326229
oh i fucking raped that brake lever it will bleed today
>>
>>1326294
User manual of your helmet will say yes.
The outer shell is polyethylene, so inform yourself if the paint you use can damage that.

Honestly, it's probably fine, but it's possible that the paint simply will not stick to it properly.
>>
>>1326024
... should just have bought a bike with v brakes. i never had this kind of problems with them
>>
>>1326381
hahaha, godspeed
>>
How do I get braver? I have this small drop at my local trail, that makes me feel like a puppy too afraid to go down the stairs.
>>
>>1326565
Get a bike that fits
>>
>>1326565
Practice. The more you safely land, the more you'll trust yourself and your equipment. One of my local parks has a sort of halfpipe where one side you can jump into with a decent amount of air, and I practiced on that until my sphincter stopped clenching. Best part is that right after I land I have to brake hard and turn or end up in brambles, so it gives me good practice for maneuvering.
>>
I have a 2015 Specialized Allez that the previous owner neglected

I was wondering if it’s even worth it to tune it up/upgrade it or just buy an entirely new bike
>>
>>1326576
'Tuning' = yes. In the sense of truing the wheels, degreasing, cleaning, greasing and lubrication, good idea. Replace tatty bar tape etc.

Upgrading = aside from tyres I wouldn't bother. Keep it as a cheapo bike and buy a new one as your sunday best.
>>
My font tire is flat for some reason.
Do I just go to a shop and buy a new tube? Is it hard to replace?
>>
>used
>1400$
is it worth it?
>>
>>1326657
>spending $1400 on a toy you'll ride down the ski lift once
>>
>>1326638
You can buy a patch kit you can use to glue a patch onto the hole. You don't need to buy a new tube every time you have a flat, I usually only do that after I patched it a couple times. When I'm on tour, I replace the tube and patch the one I took out later.
This is really something you should be able to do, and it isn't hard. Just watch a Youtube video.
>>
>>1326661
>roadie faggot thinks his opinion matters
>>
>>1326673
Car lovers should NOT post in this board.
>>
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>>1326674
>Car lovers
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>>1326678
If you can't use your bike without putting it on your cage, it doesn't belong on /n/ - transportation
>>
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>>1326680
>If you can't use your bike without putting it on your cage
whats the matter roadie nigger did a small jump made you shit your pants in front of everyone?
>>
>>1326678
Go jerk off to your car
>>
>>1326680
>>1326685
>samefagging already
oh no no no no
>>
>>1326686
>Humilated by different anons so it must be samefagging!!!!
>saying oh no no no no as a retort
Enjoying your sóy latte friend? Go post about it on leddit instead of humiliating yourself here.
>>
>>1326693
thanks for proving my point
>>
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>>1326698
>Heheh proved my point
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>>1326700
holy fuck you are ass blasted
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>>1326683
Who is this cute boy?
>>1326686
>everyone on /n/ who comes to /n/ to discuss TRANSPORTATION is really the same person
>>
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>>1326710
Imagine being proud of being the equivalent of an unsupervised pet that shits up a cycling event
>>
>>1326638
Multiple things can cause flats. Tires lose air over time from sitting so try filling it up first if it's been sitting a long time. If it's not that, then it could be a pinch flat (which is likely to be caused by riding at too low of a pressure, or by improper installation which can pinch the tube under the tire bead, or by riding over potholes or up curbs), or a puncture flat.
Check your tire and rim strip and get rid of any thorn, glass, etc that may have caused the flat.
Make sure the rip strip is fully covering all the spokes, otherwise that can cause a flat.
When installing the new tube, make sure not to twist it at all and make sure not to pinch it under the tire bead.
Always check your tire pressure before every ride, because tires lose air over time from sitting, and riding at low pressure makes pinch flats very likely.
When buying a new tube, make sure to get the right size (diameter and width), and right valve type (presta or schrader).
To install the new tube, you'll need 2-3 tire levers and a pump. Watch a YouTube video to see how to do it.
If it's a really tight tire that's difficult to install, a Kool Stop bead jack is a tool that can make installation easier.
>>
>>1326565
Work up to it with smaller drops. If you're still scared, then harden the fuck up and just do it.
>>1326170
You may not have to do a bleed. Wedge something clean like a wrench or whatever in between the pads (with the wheel off the bike obviously) and pry it back and forth until the pads are all the way out. This can require some strength/force and time. Once you get the pads all the way out (and by all the way out, I mean ALL THE WAY OUT, as far as they can go), then put the wheel back on. Then pull the lever a few times. That should fix it.
If it doesn't work, try it again or bleed it.
>>
>>1326294
Potentially yes the paint may degrade the helmet and compromise the structural integrity.
>>1326275
>>1326276
Bikepedia might be helpful.
>>
>>1326711
butthurt roadie detected, I bet you ragecage to all your races
>>
>>1326721
>races
I use a bike for transportation.
>ragecage
I don't own a cage.

Please return to your containment board, thanks.
>>
>>1326710
now this is epic
>>
imainge being proud because you achieve 5 km/h on a pizza cutter wheels
lmao
>>
>>1326746
>imainge
are you having a stroke anon
>>
>>1326746
You okay anon? Did your teacher not go over how to spell imagine today in class?
>>
>>1326747
>>1326819
>>1326730
samefag /o/ shill detected
>>
>>1326826
Same old schizophrenic anon screaming about a samefag boogeyman
>>
Are bike mirrors a meme? I have my headphones in when commuting so I can't hear the damn onions exhausts of cars on my street about to run me over
>>
>>1326836
Dont listen to music then you careless fool before you traumatize somebody by becoming a speedbump. Bikers should always be as attentive as cagers. No one person should carry all the responsibility of commuting carefully.
>>
>>1326840
fine then Ill just get those electric truck horns and blast any fucker who dares not yield
>>
>>1326836
Don't fucking have music things in your ears when you ride you massive faggot
>>1326832
go back to /o/
>>
>>1326879
Go lick your cage
>>
>>1326881
go lick your cage dumb faggot cuck downtuber
>>
Best entry level road bikes i could snap up for ~$700 2nd hand, ideally w/ hydro discs

thinking:
Cube Attain
Giant Defy
Genesis datum

??
>>
How do I do basic maintenance on a bike? Should I be like... washing it? Greasing it?
>>
I own a Fuji tread, AL Frame with a Shimano Tiagra Disc Brake group.
Weight total is 10.8kg.
I figure I can save around 1.2kg on the wheels, maybe 0.8-1kg on the group set without breaking the bank.
But that's still almost 9kg, could pretty much buy an entire new bike around that weight for the value.

Feels like there isn't really a point in upgrading parts. Is it ever worth the effort? Building PCs I'm used to getting more for less, not less for more.
>>
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>>1327290
The only thing you really need to worry about is chain maintenance, and that's pretty easy if you can follow step-by-step instructions.
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>>1327301
>Feels like there isn't really a point in upgrading parts. Is it ever worth the effort?
No. It's ridiculous, but a bicycle is always worth a lot less than the sum of its parts.
>>
>>1327318
Sheldon did love the month of April
>>
>>1327318
Is this a troll image?
>>
>>1327374
>hey guys let's do some chain maintenance that involves taking the chain all the way apart that's gonna stretch out all the links and make the chain worse than it was before we did the 'maintenance'!
What the fuck do you think?
>>
>>1327290
Check tire pressure before every ride. Tires lose air over time from sitting. Riding at too low of pressure makes you prone to flats.

Lube chain whenever it stats to get dry/squeaky, or every 200 miles or so.
To lube chain, apply bicycle-specific chain lube (preferably wet lube) to the full length of the chain. Let it sit 10 minutes to let carrier solvent evaporate. Then wipe it down. To wipe it down, rotate the pedals with one hand (can do this in a stand, or on ground pedaling backwards) while holding the chain with an old rag or old sock in the other hand. Keep wiping it down til no more dirt/lube is coming off onto the rag.
You don't want any lube on the outside of the chain or the cassette or anything else. You only want lube INSIDE the chain. When you apply the lube and let it sit 10 minutes, that gives it time to sink in.

Those are the main things to do regularly. If you ever have trouble with the brakes (like if they don't give enough stopping power) or derailleurs not shifting well or whatever, those will need specific adjustments. In that case, refer to the links in the OP post (Sheldon Brown and Park Tool).
Disregard the chain maintenance image the other anon posted, he is trying to troll you. You should never be fully disassembling every link like that.
>>
>>1327280
>>>/n/bbg
Consider the CAAD series. Not sure what brakes they have but they're some of the most affordable decent road bikes if you want something modern.
Otherwise get an old ~1980s steel ten speed. They're fun to cruise around on, good for commuting and adventure rides, but not as fast or light as modern road bikes.
>>
>>1327432
Nice, thanks. Already do the tire pressure and gear adjustments. Had no idea about the chain, but my chain isn't even squeaky yet after many years.
>>
>>1327301
Your wheels have to be fucking anchors if you can save 1.2kh on them. But yes it can be worth upgrading if you are smart about it. Like going from mechanical discs to hydro is a no-brainer. Getting better wheels can make you noticably faster. Getting a better saddle will make your ass happier. Upgrading component levels is almost pointless anymore unless you're a grabblememer and are going from 105 RD to an Ultegra RX or whatever the clutched one is called.
>>
>>1327459
>Had no idea about the chain, but my chain isn't even squeaky yet after many years.
Um... what the fuck. A chain should be lubed every few hundred miles, and replaced every 1500 or so miles (1500 is very approximate, it could be half that or twice that based on various factors).
Changes are your chain is very stretched by now, and likely your cassette and chainrings too.
Since your stuff is probably all stretched, you could just keep riding it til your drivetrain stops working. But for future reference (especially after you inevitably have to replace your chain, cassette, and chainrings):
Replace your chain whenever it reaches 0.75% stretch. You can buy a tool to measure, or you can just stop by a bike shop every so often and ask them to measure the chain. Don't let them sell you a new chain before .75%, but don't let it stretch too much beyond that.
Reason being is that a chain stretched much beyond that will start wearing out your cassette and chainring teeth much faster than a fresh chain.
Cassettes have to be replaced eventually as well when the teeth wear out, but not nearly as often as chains as long as you're good about replacing your chain when it gets stretched.
I can almost guarantee your chain is very stretched right now, however since your cassette is probably worn too, replacing the chain right now might do more harm than good, because a new chain on a worn cassette will cause the drive train to skip. When you do replace your chain, you'll probably have to replace your cassette too (and maybe chainrings) since you've been riding that chain so long.

Again, this is for future reference. Since your drivetrain parts are probably all worn out right now, you can just keep riding them til the chain breaks or the drivetrain starts skipping.
But when you do end up having to replace the parts, just stay on top of replacing the chain in the future since it will prolong your other components' lifespans.
>>
>>1327433
the caad is awesome but the caad optimo claris is 900, 200 above his power level
>>
>>1327478
Yeah I get some chain slips sometimes when switching gears. It's probably all fucked up. I'm not sure if it's worth replacing all that on this bike or get a new bike.
>>
>>1327485
What bike do you have? Post pic if you don't know enough to describe it. New chain, cassette, and chainrings would definitely cost a fair amount of money, especially if you need a bike shop to install them for you.
A new bike (new as in not used) that will meet basic needs and not be junk will be around 400-600 dollars. A decent used bike can be had for 200 or so, but with a used bike you're gonna need to likely replace some parts as well, so I wouldn't be inclined to go buy another used bike just cause the one you have now has worn components.
But if you post a pic we can at least give you a general idea of if it's a bike worth putting any money into.
>>
>>1327484
I assume that's the new price, no? He's looking to buy used.
>>
>>1327478
over 9 000 km on my current chain and over 25 000 on my cassette and chainrings.
no skipping, probably runs better than most bikes.
just need to take proper care of it and it will last years
>>
>>1327491
I'll take a pic tomorrow, but it's a Giant brand mountain bike. Are new mountain bikes in the same price range?
>>
>>1327496
No, the 400-600 dollar price range I gave is for hybrids which are generally going to be the cheapest decent bikes available if you're buying new. New mountain bikes are going to be considerably more expensive (if you don't want garbage) because quality suspension adds to the cost.
If you want a used rigid (no suspension) mountain bike, then yes, the 200 dollar estimate I gave will be accurate. If you go that route, it's going to be from the 90s and won't have the same geometry as modern mountain bikes. As such, it will feel somewhere between a hybrid and a true mountain bike, so it won't have quite as good of handling on really technical off-road terrain, and of course the lack of suspension means it will be a rougher ride on rough terrain. That said, 90s rigid mountain bikes are actually very good quality and are a ton of fun to ride, and they're very versatile. They are good for mountain biking as long as it's on mellow terrain, and they're also good for commuting.
But again, if you buy used, you're likely going to have to replace a few parts such as chain, brake pads, tubes, tires, and maybe also cables, housing, chainrings, and bearings. If you know a lot about bikes, you can pretty easily inspect it and test ride it to have a good idea of what parts will and won't need replacement.
If you don't know much about bikes and don't have someone to go with you, then you're to an extent taking a gamble as to how much will need to be replaced, but you can certainly check some things, like visually look at the tires and brake pads and see if they look worn, test ride and see how it shifts and brakes, and look at the cassette and chainring teeth to see if they look good (if they're good, the teeth will be flat at the top and the troughs will be round; if they are old and worn, the teeth will be pointy and the bottoms of the troughs will be flat). Just keep that stuff in mind if buying a used bike
>>
>>1327474
Yeah. They total 4kg right now, and knowing the tire, tube, cassette and brake rotors there is 2.7-2.8kg left for the wheels themselves.

Was thinking of DT Swiss 1400s for replacement, 1.5kg for the set. Those could still be better than the stocks which might come attached to the next bike.

Maybe you have some other suggestions?
I only ride road, but they're roughed up with potholes and usually carry dirt or grit.
>>
>>1326657
Try going for a trail bike, you'll actually be able to ride it when you arent at fucking whistler
>>
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>>1327506
>They are good for mountain biking as long as it's on mellow terrain, and they're also good for commuting.
Nice. I use it mostly for transportation, only mountain biking a few times a year, and my local place isn't that extreme.

My bike's not even Giant brand my bad, it's GT.
>>
How do I determine what stem to get?
>>
My bike has no barrel adjusters on the brake lines.
Neither on the levers (Sram brifters) nor near the brakes (Shimano Deore).

How the fuck am I supposed to do fine adjustments?
>>
>>1327714
If you're like me, you buy cheap stems till you find one that fits, then you buy cheap project bikes with different frame sizes till you have a use for all the stems you bought.
>>
after putting slicks on my gravel bike, it feels a lot faster. what advantages does a road bike have over a gravel with slicks? it feels like the gravel with slicks is like 80% of the way there
>>
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You alright lads?

I've been pulling my fucking hair out trying to fix my '80s Raleigh Clubman (similar to pic related).

I think I might have just stripped the derailleur hanger (which is a part of the frame on these old steel bikes). And it's driving me fucking nuts.

I could buy a 10mm x 1mm tap to help clear out the thread? Or I could just take it to a local bike shop (they're a national chain, and I'm not sure how good they are for non-standard repairs like this). Or maybe I should just say fuck it and buy a new cheap steel bike.

Any suggestions? Thanks a lot if anyone has ideas.
>>
>>1327798
The road bike's advantage is that it is 100% there.
It weighs less, is more aero and has a more aggressive riding position, making you faster.
It has more closely spaced gears, allowing you to stay in the ideal powerband much more often.
>>
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>>1327715
Buy inline barrel adjusters
>>
>>1327715

Why do you need barrel adjusters on the brake lines?
>>
>>1327800
Take it to a shop and have the guy fill the stripped thread with bronze then rethread it, that way you keep the same thread size. I doubt it's something they do on the shop you mention, look for a smaller one with a grouchy old man.
You could also buy one of these bolt-on claws and install it on top of the integrated one.
>>
>>1327819
Currently I keep loosening the bolt where the brake line is fixed to the caliper, adjusting it by hand, and tightening it down again.
I'm a retard, but I figure there needs to be a better way to gradually bring the pads closer to the rim as they wear. The cable already looks pretty bad at the point where I keep adjusting it.
>>
>>1327818
how does that even work?
>>
>>1327832
Same as any barrel adjuster, turning it counterclockwise opens it up, tightening the brake cable
>>
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>>1327820
I did watch a video saying you could weld some metal in there then thread the new metal. I didn't know they would use bronze for that though.

>You could also buy one of these bolt-on claws and install it on top of the integrated one.
I wish that was possible but I'm pretty sure it isn't on an old steel frame like mine (much like pic related).
>>
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>>1327841
Sure you can, just bolt the sucker right on top of the frame's. It's what I did on my beater. It's not very elegant, but it works.
>>
Just bought an old road bike, need some suggestions for good price/performance tires to put on it. It had 700 x 25c on there originally. I'm starting with the thing I actually know how to replace, the rest of it is a mystery. I have no idea where to start. It will probably need all of the cables replaced, new chain, wheels trued, everything lubed etc. It's been in a garage since 1987. LBS service is a last option, I want to keep it cheap and learn some skills.
>>
>>1327976
Contintental ultrasports are decent and run ~$15 each. It's worth checking with your LBS to see if they have something good on sale. You'll probably want to replace the tubes as well.
>>
>>1327798
>what advantages does a road bike have over a gravel with slicks?
If you're just riding for fun, not much. If you're racing, it will be a little bit faser due to weight, geometry, and aerodynamics.
>>1327715
Just with the cables and pinch bolts, they don't need to be super precise like derailleurs.
>>
>>1327798
Lower bar height, road gearing, and better front end geometry for pavement.

Yes, you can put a -25deg stem on a gravel bike, but really.
>>
>>1327603
The bike you have is kind of a mashup of a mountain bike and a comfort bike. Basically the bad type of hybrid. If you enjoy riding it then by all means keep riding it but it's got a low quality suspension fork, a meme-tier suspension seatpost, and a comfort bike style stem.
That said, GT is a decent brand, they're not walmart garbage.
So it's really up to you. If you enjoy the bike, go ahead and replace the drivetrain parts. I'd personally much rather have a true mountain bike, they handle better and have nicer geometry. A 1990s rigid steel mountain bike would run around 150-300 dollars, and >>>/n/bbg can help you pick one out if you post your local craigslist there.
But again, if you enjoy the bike you've got, keep riding it. Don't feel like you have to replace it just cause I don't like that kind of bike.
>>
>>1327976
post a photo dangus
>>
>>1327987
you can still get gp4000s ii for like $30 tho, because nobody is running 25 anymore. one of my LBSes has a giant fucking stack of them that they can't move.
>>
>>1328032
they're only $30 on wiggle too
it's really the last thing you should cheap out on.
4000s II is already cheaping out and not geting gp5k but ultrasports are just retarded
>>
>>1328034
I wonder how long they're gonna take to sell out? Freds won't be caught dead with anything but the latest and greatest, and everyone else is running 32+ now. Conti really fucked up on draining the channel before introing the 5k.
>>
>>1328037
>and everyone else is running 32+ now.
pfftt more than half the nice cheap old bikes out there wouldn't fit even that.
>>
>>1328037
and i really think the gravel supple comfy meme has got to be on life support by now as people realise that 'comfort' isn't necessarily a positive quality if they just want to go out and blast around a city fast for an hour.
>>
My bike is too tall for me, seat is already as low as it goes. Should I suck it up or get a new bike? I feel like I'd look forward to riding more and get out more often if my bike were more comfortable.
>>
>>1328040
ya but they don't run fred tires, they run whatever shitty tires the stoner at their bike co-op recs them, probably panaracer tours or some kenda shit, same diff
>>1328041
maybe, but here in the PNW it sure isn't. pure road cycling is on life support, though.
>>
>>1328050
NEW BIKE
>>
>>1328050
If the seat is as low as it goes and still too high, your bike is several sizes too big.
Get a new one definitely.
>>
>>1328074
>>1328079
Thanks. Any tips for getting the right size next time? I just got something that was a good deal and that a friend told me to get (was on craigslist and he was looking with me). I'm 5'7 in case you can tell me a number to look for or something.
>>
>>1328085
I'm also 5'7 and I always look for bicycles with a frame height of between 52 and 55cm (S to M, in road bikes). For mountain bikes the numbers are different.

https://www.bicycling.com/bikes-gear/a20047780/find-right-bike-size/
>>
>>1328091
Thanks.
>>
Bought a new bike last fall with hydraulic disc brakes. After the winter now taking it out for some rides, I feel the rear brake lever has a lot of travel to it.
I need to squeeze it nearly all the way in to actually lock my wheel.
It's very strong in that last bit, but I fear if it gets worse now I won't be able to brake.

Is this when you're supposed to "bleed the system"? Don't have any experience with this
>>
>>1328102
If they are Shimano brakes they are not very hard to bleed, I bought a bleed kit online and did it in my apartment successfully. I do not know how any other manufacturer's brakes compare.
>>
>>1328103
These are SRAM Guide R's unfortunately, but I just wished to know if the symptom says that a bleed is needed
>>
>>1328102
Depending on your brakes you may be able to move the master piston by turning a thumbscrew near the base of the lever. This will affect how much deadband is in the lever pull.
>>
Do you think it would be worth plopping down $1000+ on a road bike from my LBS just for a 2.0 mile commute? After not riding since I was a kid, I decided on impulse purchase of a Giant Talon 27.5 at the LBS for $550. It's a fun ride, love the disk brakes. But from reading around I see how much faster road bikes are. The mechanic at the shop says he exclusively rides MB's for everything.
>>
>>1328123
No, get a hold of yourself you stupid woman
>>
>>1328102
Sounds more to me like you're one of those people who slow down almost exclusively with their rear brake, that plus winter riding (which accelerates brake pad wear) could mean that your rear brake pads are too worn out. Take a look at them and compare them with the front ones, if they look way further away from the disc than the front ones, they may need replacement, or at the very least a retightening like >>1328114 pointed out.
>>
Is Ancheer any good for a road bike? Found one lightly used for cheap. It's got drop bars which is one of my main criteria for looking at bikes until I learn more. The guy says it's a small size so I'd have to see if it'd be big enough for me.
>>
Should I avoid old bikes and/or steel frames if I'm looking for a cheap used road bike? I'm not sure if spending $100 on a bike from the 80s is a horrible idea or not.
>>
>>1328139
Was understandably a bit unclear, but the bike has been still all winter. I haven't checked, but the pads SHOULD be fine.
But yeah, definitely brake a lot more with my rear brake, but doesn't everyone? Even if you use both, the ratio will be around 30% front, 70% rear, no?

>>1328114
I'll check this out

Thanks
>>
>>1328170
It's a great idea if you can find a good one
Here are the easiest things to look for.

Also condition.
>>
Thinking about cycling as a hobby but it seems expensive and dangerous. Thoughts?
>>
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>>1328193
cycling is really fun and makes you feel good
>expensive
you can get a very decent entry level road or mtb and the fixins for about $1000 from a shop and any money spent beyond that is going to be on vastly diminished returns and autism.
you can get something rideable but not great which you'll grow out of quickly if you take it seriously for $500
and if you're handy and have a good used market you could get started with something good for $200

Whether some or all or none of those is expensive to you is relative.

You might hurt yourself, it's somewhat dangerous, but the positive health benefits of regular cardio, physical and mental, outweigh that risk by far.
>>
>>1328192
Oh wow, thanks so much. I didn't see the text on the pic from the thumbnail, but this seems very informative.
>>
>>1328198
fresh oc for you champ
thats short for champion
>>
>>1328010
Cocky little freak
>>
>>1328010
>>1327858
>>
What are those rear mudguards that I see on downhill bikes that are mounted near the chainstay linkage?
Is it possible to mount those on normal full suspension bikes? Always clogs up with mud and shit and it's not easy to clean there
>>
>>1328123
>Giant Talon 27.5
n+1 is never a bad idea. but for 2 miles, why nout try out some road tires on your talon first?

>>1328193
Cycling is very cheap, until you get into racing or hardcore mountain biking, even then, it's still really not that much. As far as risk, it really depends WHERE you're riding.
>>
>>1328207
oh, you bought it
post a driveside picture

If the wheels are not true, take them off, and get a shop to true them.
If they do not spin smoothly either, you could get the shop to service the bearings at the same time, or you could buy some cone spanners and do it yourself.

Buy some new tyres. GP4000s or GP5k. Buy some new brake pads. Any new road kind will work.

Grip the fork in one hand and the stem in the other, feel for play in the headset bearing. If it's rough, or there's play, you need a headset spanner, and a big adjustable, some solvent to clean the bearings, and some grease to repack them. It's not a very hard job. Definately do that yourself. You can cut most of the front reflector off with a hacksaw while you do that, and just keep the spacer bit. Clean and grease the stem too.

Take the seatpost out, clean it, grease it. Take the seatpost binder bolt out, clean the threads, grease them lightly.

Drop your chain off the crank to the inside, spin the crank, is it rough? If it's REALLY rough, definately replace it (or try service it first, but a cartridge replacement is cheap) if it's a bit rough, you could ignore if it's not loud to ride.

Get some new platform flats or clipless pedals

Get a chain tool, and a new chain and a new cassette/freewheel if the teeth are worn (compare to each other)

Buy a bicycle specific cable cutting tool and recable what you want. Rewrap new bartape. Pink to match the decals would look best.

Any bolt you remove, clean the thread, and lightly grease it.

Tune it.

Wa la
>>
>>1328218
Also it'll be easier if you can ghetto a work stand, or ropes to hang it, or buy a stand
atleast for tuning the gears.
>>
>>1324940
Is there any reason to use a 2x or 3x as opposed to a 1x?
>>
>>1328221
it depends.
>>
>>1328221
>2x
on a road bike it lets you have the same or greater range, with closer gaps between gears, so you can maintain a steady cadence
>3x
touring bike with ultra low gears for crawling up steep hills with bags

or on casual bikes they're also often just cheaper than 1x
>>
>>1328193
The founder of Raleigh was given six months to live before he took up cycling. It's very good for your body and soul.
>>
>>1328229
That's quite inspiring
>>
>>1328193
Cycling is as expensive as you want to make it, and as dangerous as walking.
>>
>>1328244
to be honest, it's as dangerous as you want to make it, too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fA4qqB8j8Gc
>>
>>1328251
Same as walking in that regard. The stupid shit I've seen mountain walkers do...
>>
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>>1328218
Thanks a lot for the repair advice. I'm going to see what my LBS estimate is, I think my time is worth something and I want to get off my ass and ride already. Cell phone camera washes out the colors- the decals look sharp and colorful IRL. I figured $35 is a decent deal for a beater.
>>
>>1328275
I'll fix the basic bits and leave the truing and repacking etc to the pros. I like my local a guy a lot. I think he's considered hot shit nationwide actually.
>>
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>>1328275
Here's the original catalog sheet
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>>1328275
Unsolicited advice: get a set of bar-end shifters… either newer Shimano units in "friction" shifting mode, or older SunTour "bar-controls.". That large of a frame had a lot of drop from the handlebars to the down tube shifters.
>>
>>1328275
…is that saddle slammed all the way down out of necessity?
>>
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>>1328192
Holy fucking Christ this image is literal cancer. You shouldn't be posting stuff like this which will mislead beginners. Whoever made this is a fucking idiot.

>>1328198
Don't pay attention to that image, it's literal garbage. Most of it is subjective opinion, at least one point (about the rear derailleur) is bad advice, and to top it off, it doesn't cover some of the most fundamental things you should check when buying a bike.

>rear derailleur
On older frames, the derailleur hanger is part of the frame itself. But this is a BAD design and there is a reason they don't make bikes like this anymore. If it bends, it's much more of a problem. You can try and bend it back if you're very careful, but it's not ideal. Modern bikes have a replaceable rear derailleur hanger - this means that if it bends, you can just cheaply replace it.

Yes, you may well still be better off getting an old bike, if you can get a good one for a good price, and if you can't find any good modern bikes for a good price. But to say that you should deliberately desire the old (much inferior) design is the most idiotic suggestion I have ever seen.

>shifters
Where they are located is entirely personal preference (this is one reason that image is such fucking cancer). What matters is whether they WORK. Check that you can into all the gears. Before you do this you might want to take a look at the back of the bike to see that the rear derailleur hangs straight downwards. If it doesn't (your hanger - see above - might be bent), then the derailleur could smash into the spokes when you try and get into the largest sprocket on the rear cassette. If you're cycling along when this happens, expect your rear derailleur to be destroyed beyond repair (it has happened to me before). It's probably not good for your spokes either.

I will cover other failings of that image in another post.
>>
>>1328301
>That large of a frame had a lot of drop from the handlebars to the down tube shifters.
Why is that a problem?

>>1328304
Not sure, I bought it that way.

Just got a quote from the LBS. I'm looking at $150, so I'm going to do as much as I can myself.
>>
>>1328198
Here are more points about this - >>1328192

>cranks
Yes, ideally it would be nice to have a square taper crankset, since it is the most modern type. I don't think it is a dealbreaker if it is an older type though, especially if you are just looking for a cheap beater bike for getting around on. To be fair this is one part where the image is actually giving you pretty good advice since square taper cranksets are the best - I just wouldn't say they're ESSENTIAL if you're just looking for a beater bike.

>brake levers
Rubber hoods are a very nice bonus - they will make it more comfortable, especially if you're out of the saddle, climbing a hill - but they are not essential. I have ridden bikes without them and it's not a huge issue.

>brake levers
Brake levers that can be pulled from the top of bars are criticised by some. You can see reasons why at these links:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_e-f.html (search for "extension levers")
https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/5267/why-dont-brakes-come-with-safety-levers-any-more

But honestly, if you are just buying a beater bike, I don't think it matters a great deal - most extension levers can be removed anyway.

If we're talking about brakes, then ideally, it would be very nice to have modern dual-pivot sidepull brakes (which significantly increase braking performance over older, single-pivot sidepull brakes). But if you're buying a beater bike, maybe you won't be so bothered about it. Bikes that have modern dual-pivot brakes will probably be a little more expensive.

Read about types of brakes here:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/rim-brakes.html
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/calipers.html (caliper brakes are the most common on road bikes)
>>
>>1328198
Oh yeah and I forgot to mention one of the most significant things you should look at when buying an old bike - cracks in the frame. If the frame has any cracks in it whatsoever, don't buy it. Cracks in frames are pretty rare and usually mean someone's had a bad accident, or the frame has just been mishandled. But when you're buying second hand old bikes, they're going to be more common than you would usually see, particularly from disreputable sellers. If you see a crack in a frame, don't buy that bike.
>>
>>1328275
Sorry to be a pest, but which type of chain do I need? Is this OK, or is there a certain type that old road bikes need?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-CN-HG40-6-7-8-Speed-116-Links-Chain-for-18-21-24-Speed-MTB-Road-Bike/332986118912
>>
>>1328319
no any chain that fits 6/7/8 gear cassettes will fit.
>>
>>1328320
Yeah and you can usually throw a 9sp chain on an 6-8 sp drivetrain.
>>
>>1328170
>>1328192
>>1328312
I think the unstated point of the graphic is that there's cheap shit (the Schwinn, in this case) and then there's "good" to "great" shit. Ok, maybe for a beginner beater it doesn't matter but:
1) it's better to know than to not know
2) on the used market, that bottom-of-the-barrel Schwinn will be priced the same as a great 80s bike with good components and steel

to the guy who asked, the Schwinn's frame is also budget-ass "hi-tensile" steel which is just regular steel aka "gaspipe". the reason I know is because quality steel frames (made with chrome-moly alloy steel and with double or triple butting aka strengthening) will have good components on it because they were marketed to cyclists instead of people shopping at Sears. There are some good Schwinns out there, but you can see by the "tells" on the chart the crap from the good, which--again--will usually be priced the same on the used market.
get the good stuff.
>>
>>1328191
More like 90% front 10% back
People often use their rear brake more because they're afraid of going over the bars (usually because of some childhood trauma). Front brake is far more effective, rear brake should be saved for shaving off speed, front is for stopping.
>>
been thinking about changing from flat to either bullhorns or drop, which one is more useful and which one is more comfortable?
>>
>>1328385
Drops offer the exact same hand positions as bullhorns. Plus, you know, the drops. So they are more useful and just as comfortable.
>>
>>1328193
Just stay off the roads
>>
>>1328275
you'd better be over 6'1", that bike is sized for an NBA player.
good bike tho.
>>
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what should i look for in good panniers?
mine are shitty walmart tier with straps that kept coming lose. Its being held on with zip ties.
>>
>>1328402
you'd think but that's only for people 6'3 or so. Because they didn't have the seats so high you should generally add +2 or +3 cm to frame measurements compred to modern geometry.

Believe it or not people like Univega and Shogun actually made frames in 64,65 and sometimes 66.

The only major maker who makes a bike off the rack that fits someone taller than 6'6 without stem and seatpost adaptations is FACTOR who makes their carbon road bike in 64cm last time I checked.

Those japs were smart- they knew americans were tall and that tall people wanted bikes. They knew US and Euro makers were cheap and were not making enough frame sizes.
>>
How do I wire supercapacitors from my dynamo to my 12v (AC/DC) headlight so it will stand? I have a bunch of 5.5v 1.5F supercaps, some bridge rectifiers, 5v voltage regulators and 35v 1000uf capacitors. I also would like to make blinkers (have a handlebar switch intended for a moped's 12vDC), a taillight, and bought a usb port intended for a moped's 12vDC - it has its own in-line box of electrics to go from 12v to the 5v in the ports, but I can detach that to wire something else on if needed. My dynamo outputs a range of 12 to about 26v max in the headlight terminal and up to about 4-5v in the rear.
>>
>>1325856
get a full face
>>
>>1328306
I made it, just now.

Your only valid point is that absolute shitter low tier bikes can be ok to ride. Which is true, but as the other anon says, they generally aren't even cheaper if they're rideable, and they are harder to fix up and less worth it if they aren't.

99% of mid-high tier 80s/90s steel road bikes have an integrated derailer hanger. It's not an issue for them either. The removeable hanger is a feature of aluminium frames, and is STILL a different thing from a claw.
A Claw is almost always just on a low tier bike.

I won't even address the rest because you're just wrong beyond the point that shit low tier bikes are still bikes and can be ridden, or maybe that you'll find the very rare exception or a halfway decent upper low tier bike with one thing but not the others and alright general quality.

>>1328364
thank you
>>
>>1328280
I love this. Any advice for finding catalog pics like this? I want to see if I can find one for my Bianchi Boardwalk now. I don't know which generation it is, but if the pic looked right enough I'd still enjoy having it.
>>
>>1328306
the simple fact is that an 80s/90s road bike with suicide brake levers, stem shifters, and a claw derailer, is inevitably extremely low quality and avoiding those things is the simplest way to filter out the shittest used bikes.
>>
>>1328364
Are there brands of old bikes that are safer than Schwinn to look at, or is Schwinn fine as long as I look it over well? I see a fair bit of Schwinn on my local craigslist.
>>
>>1328564
Not him but schwinn made good bikes and shit bikes like most other companies
use my pic as a basic guide

>>1328192
>>
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>>1328561
http://bulgier.net/pics/bike/Catalogs/
i don't think this has what you want but it is cool and higher res unlike many
>>
>>1328564
Miyata, Univega, Nishiki, Shogun, Centurion, Panasonic, Trek, Bianchi. One tell of a good bike is that it'll often have a sticker saying what kind of steel it was made from, such as Columbus SL, Tange Prestige, Miyata SSTB, Reynolds 531, Ishiwata 022, etc.

Another tell is components. Suntour Cyclone/Sprint/Superbe/XC Comp/XC Pro, Shimano 105, 600, Dura Ace, and Campag whatever (although that will never be found on a cheap vintage bike unless the owner doesn't know shit) are signs that the bike is good. Suntour Sprint and Superbe Pro in particular are so, so fucking good, and Cyclone (Mk. I or II) is not that far behind. Maybe it's why they missed the boat on indexing. Their friction stuff is so smooth and precise that even most modern indexed stuff feels like shit in comparison.

Note that after the original Maeda Suntour went under in the early 90s, the name brand was picked up by Sakae, and is now used for mediocre components.
>>
>>1328556
>>1328562
>>1328192
I literally have 1 bike with all the shit components there (sears free spirit from the late 70s) and 1 with all the excellent ones (1989 Peugeot Versailles). Both were being thrown out. The sears is all hex bolts and missing a seat post with most of the consumable/wear components dead on it. I don't really want to throw it out again but... it's taking up space and basically seems to be incompatible with everything nowadays...

>>1328572
>>1328564
Peugeot is pretty good as an old french bike brand as well
>>
Why do faggots mess up their aerodynamics by drilling their bikes to save weight instead of thinning the walls out by sanding/grinding them?
>>
I'm looking for a new roadbike, budget is 2-$3k, I'm totally overwhelmed by all the choices. Preferences: Ultegra, , will fit a 28c, other than that I'm totally open. Looking for something kind of gofast. You boys have any suggestions?
>>
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>>1328575
The problem with Peugeot is that they made some real shitters. Most of their good ones used Simplex derailleurs, which were ok when maintained properly, except that the ones with Delrin plastic are prone to cracking. But yeah if you can get one of the higher end ones, they're great and they're always fucking gorgeous, even the gaspipe shitters. They're just a sort of...you need to know what you're getting into kinda bike.
>>
>>1328585
Are you going to be doing lots of climbing? How much riding do you anticipate doing on a long day?

My absolute favorite current road bike is the Bianchi Infinito CV. It's really comfortable because of the Countervail stuff in the carbon weave but can go fast and carve corners like a demon. While I like racy bastard bikes like the Trek Emonda SL or Bianchi's Aria, I can only really do a couple of hours on them before starting to get miserable, which makes me slower than if I'm on a more relaxed fit bike. Unfortunately you probably can't find a new one for under $3k unless it's on a fairly deep discount.

Trek's Domane SL5 Disc is a good bike, and you can fit up to 32 on them. Specialized Roubaix is nice but fucking overpriced and has a proprietary headset. Cannondale's Synapse is nice, but overpriced as well.
>>
>>1328402
6'2 and a bit, seems to fit OK, may need to raise the seat a bit actually.
>>
What makes a good wheel?
>>
>>1328762
A hub, some spokes, nipples, a rim, a bit of rim tape, and some skill in assembling those pieces.
>>
Looking for some affordable flat pedals to replace the clip ones on my old road bike. These are 9/16in, is that the standard size?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminium-alloy-Mountain-Bike-Pedals-Road-Bicycle-Pedals-Flat-Platform-9-16in/273834606543
>>
>>1328778
Ok, what makes some wheel that isn't on the stock bike better and how do I know?
>>
>>1328782
yes. Unless you have a one-piece crank, they'll fit.
>>
>>1328785
Thanks, went ahead and ordered them, all the other cheaper pedals looked like neon spacecraft
>>
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fucking hell help
I have to take this nut/cap off, I bought the right key and the fucker (nut/cap) still bent in a way that now they key slides out if I push, I push clockwise. Any ideas what can I do to straighten it so they key won't be sliding out? I degreased it, tried kinda standing on it so it won't go out and it still goes out instead of loosening the nut/cap.
>>
My wheel hubs say 'Sealed System' does that mean the bearings can't be serviced, or don't need to be?
>>
>>1328590
It has shimano exage action parts. I'm not too familiar with road bike tech (especially retro roadbike tech). I just know some boomer was throwing it out and it looks like it was ridden maybe twice a year. No idea if this would have been expensive back in the day, I assume so.

Peugeots, from what I've seen on CL and on forums, seem to have had a wide-ish price range like anything else but (at least in my area) there's not too many shit ones around.

>>1328796
dremel with a cylindrical stone to flatten it or EXTREMELY CAREFUL scraping with hard steel, like the tip of a flat needle file or tiny piece of HSS.
>>
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>>1328796
If the tool you're using is like pic related, try tightening it against the nut with a quick release skewer, that way the tool has no room to slip away from the nut
>>
>>1324940
Im just getting into biking and ive noticed no one has stands on their bike, why is that?
>>
>>1328891
Exage was the range below 105/Deore. I think that 3xx would be roughly equivalent to Claris tier today. No idea what that bike originally sold for but it's a good ride.
>>1328958
They add a lot of weight, can deploy while you're in motion, can fuck your frame up if installed wrong, and are useless except when you have a loaded rig and nothing to lean it against.
>>
>>1328958
for serious road cyclists, they add weight and you don't need them cause you either sit on your bike or have it on the fixed bike stand in your garage. for serious mountain bikers they are dangerous cause they can get wedged in the spokes. since everyone on /n/ likes to pretend they're part of one of these groups, you'll get negative comments when posting a bike with a kickstand.
>>
I can get this for a pretty good price. Should I cop it as my daily commuter?

https://www.purecycles.com/pages/pure-fix-premium-series-specs
>>
>>1328833
Either ir means that it uses sealed cartridge bearings (which is common in modern bikes), in which case you can replace the entire cartridge bearing (you could open up the cartridge and replace the ball bearings inside, but that's generally not recommended)
Or it means the hub itself is sealed and not supposed to be opened. I haven't encountered this before but I wouldn't be surprised if it exists.
>>1328958
unnecessary and ugly
>>1328974
no
>>
>>1328585
>Ultegra
Get Sram Force instead.
>gofast
On flats or hilly terrain? On flats you'd want an aero road bike like a Venge or Madone. On hilly terrain you'd want a lightweight roadbike like a Tarmac or Emonda. I'm not sure if any of these fit 28s though, I would recommend going to an LBS and asking if you could stick a wheel from another bike with a 28mm tire on it to see if it fits, or email the manufacturer and ask, or do a web search to see if anyone else rides that bike with 28s.
>>1328584
because muh /fa/
>>
>>1328421
Banjo Brothers
>>1328170
>Should I avoid old bikes and/or steel frames i
No, steel bikes from the 1970s-1990s are excellent.
>I'm not sure if spending $100 on a bike from the 80s is a horrible idea or not.
It's a great idea. Just know that you might have to replace some parts (tires, chain, freewheel, brake pads..) if they're worn.
And probably replace the brake pads regardless, cause old brake pads degrade and don't provide much stopping power even if they're worn down. Brake pads are cheap so it shouldn't be a big deal.
>>
>>1328102
Some levers are adjustable, so you could adjust it such that when it's in the fully relaxed position it's farther from the bar, giving it more room to travel.
Your brake pads may be worn.
You may need to bleed.
It may be any one, two, or all three of those things.
>>
>>1328982
You can do 28s on all of them now, maybe 30s on the disc versions. It's fucking amazing how in just a few years, 23 is dead and 25 is dying.
>>
>>1328991
>25 is dying.
Even on fucking Venges and the like?
>>
>>1328585
Fuji Gran Fondo
Argon 18 Nitrogen

Those are a couple of high bang for the buck carbon + ultegra road bikes that are popular. Argon even is in the Pro peleton- ridden by astana.

I saw a Fuji Ultegra 2018 yesterday for 1600, the current model is officially 3400. The argon is 2500.
>>
>>1328998
Yeah. Current state of the art in TT is 25mm, but wheelmakers are starting to make aero wheels for 28mm tubeless, like the Enve SES 4.5 AR.
>>
>>1328584
Because a thick drilled sheet is far stronger than a thin flat one
>>
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>>1328922
Thank You, anon! It worked
>>
I just got a Marin Nicasio from my LBS a few days ago. I like it so far, but the only frame of reference I have is a Specialized Allez I had a few years ago and really cheap department store bikes. How did I do? What are some of the first parts I should look at upgrading? I was thinking the brakes my be a good place to start, because the brakes feel kind of mushy and honestly unsafe on some downhill curves or at some higher speeds. New wheels were the other early upgrade I was considering. I ride just about exclusively on paved country roads and very rarely on gravel mainly for pleasure and sometimes to commute.
>>
>>1328974
depends on the price, obviously. But it's not one of the garbage tier gaspipe fixies, this one is actually good (if you want a fixie).
>>
>>1329143
post a picture you dumbcunt
>>
>>1329143
Definitely the brakes. TRP Spyres will be a good upgrade. Better wheels and tires, preferably tubeless, would be a worthy upgrade too. Aside from those weaknesses the Nicaso is decent kit for the price.
>>
$30... should I get it?
>>
>>1328163
bump. are there downsides to getting a sketchy brand name?
>>
>>1329164
If it works, it's worth $30. Any functioning bike is.
But if you're not literally starving and homeless, you'd get something much better if you spent a bit more.
>>
Will cycling help with depression and anxiety?
>>
>>1329277
yeah man
it hugely boosts your mood after a little while
>>
do I want to avoid single speeds? I don't think I've ever ridden one
>>
>>1329297
They're great for commuting in flat cities.
If you find that you spend almost all your time in one gear anyway, it's worth a try.
>>
>>1329313
That's interesting, I do tend to stay in one gear, although it's often just one of the highest ones so I don't have to move my legs as much.
>>
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>>1329315
>>
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>>1329323
>>
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manlet here
>165cm
>leg 74cm
Do you think M size frame is still good? S is out of stock
>>
If a bike looks like it has foam on the bars, would that just come off easily and be replaced with bar tape? Or does the tape go over that? Or maybe I need to replace the bars... I haven't had a road bike yet.
>>
Hi im new to biking but i have no idea what kind or type of bike should i go for
>willing to pay up to 450 dollars for it
>going to ride it mostly in the city and light mountain trails
Any recommendations what i should go for ?
>>
>>1329377
Check out Decathlon.com
>>
>>1329377
something without suspension
ideally 8 or 9 speed, not 7
discs or not doesn't matter
>>
>>1329377
I'm looking at some KROSS bikes but i have no idea what should i go for and how good they are
>>
>>1329379
With discs ,27.5" or bigger tires i guess , 8 speed would be great
i dont really know what do you recommend
>>
>>1329146
Can get it for $275 before tax. Free shipping.
>>
>>1329378
>Decathlon.com
Thanks but im from europe (central) dont really get many brands imported and it would be hell to import one from US
>>
>>1329386
decathalon is french
>>
>>1329393
why did it transfer me to the us site than lmao
>>
>>1329375
>If a bike looks like it has foam on the bars, would that just come off easily and be replaced with bar tape?

no it's a bitch to take off. You take it off with a razor blade and some ISO alcohol. You then wrap the bars in a nice $10-15 "cork gel bar tape". You want the stuff with gel on the tape, it makes it slightly comfier.

Foamy bars is considered bleh nowadays and there are tons of types of bar tape available.
>>
>>1329386
>being from central europe
Hungary has decathlon

Mi a fasz?
>>
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>>1329380
I've never seen them before, but I also see no red flags. It's probably the same giant/kinesis/merida frames for the most part.

Also they seem to have a racing team, in Columbia. With a guy who looks like he's 8 years old.

Pic of another team member.

>>1329297
The price difference is so low, your first bike should be geared, just so you can figure out what speed you should get in a single speed.

>>1329277
Being outside, getting exercise? It's a no brainer.

>>1329165
Brand name on the frame, you can take risks on. Brand name on the drivetrain, wheelset, ect is not something you should risk.
>>
>>1329429
Racing team in Colombia ?
DAMN Kross is a polish brand what i just found out i guess people easily mistake it with Cross

I will also ask around my friends what they drive and what they recommend but
i am at a place where i know what i want but i dont know which one to get
>>
>>1324940
why do so many people ride on the wrong side of the bikelane ? almost ran over a boomer because he came at me right in a sharp turn.
>>
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What looks more alpha grinding heavy gears or spinning in lower gears ?
>>
>>1329449
spinning. shows you know what you're doing.
>>
>>1329449
Choosing the appropriate cadence
>>
>>1329449
Calmly blowing by everyone else while spinning at 90-110.
>>
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>>1329449
Only onions matter when it comes to test
>>
>>1328757
ah, it's all good then.
yeah, you probably need to raise the seat since it's all the way down.
best efficiency is high enough so that your leg almost fully extends but knee still has a slight bend.
you'll probably want to lower the stem to level with the saddle for casual riding or lower for gottagofast.
>>
>>1329164
agree with other anon.
that frame looks really cool but all the components on it are low-end and plebian.
worth 30 because 30 is almost nothing but this is not an /n/ approved bike.
>>
I'm currently using a ~7 year old 3x8, and daily commuting through several harsh winters has made my fucking sick of maintaining the front derailleur, which is the only part that has consistently malfunctioned or broken in recent years. Now I want a 1by, and so I ask whether it's worth converting my current ride, or am I better off buying a new one?
>>
>>1329534
if it's 3x8 from 2012, it's a budget bike. not worth converting, at all.
>>
>>1329325
>>1329323
>>1329449
Grinding works if your bike is fit properly. IE your knees should never collapse in at smaller than a 90 degree angle or come up above level with your hips, among other things. Proper bike fit is key.
>>
>>1329383
any number of entry level hybrids and you'll be scraping the barrell at that point so i won't recommend anything specific, see what you can get a deal on that isn't 7 speed.

Forget 27.5
Forget suspension.
If you want something new to ride 'mostly in the city and light mountain trails' get a hybrid and later put nice wide slicks on it, maybe slight tread pattern like gravel kings. You can still ride that on light mountain trails.
It's most likely going to be 700c

Otherwise you could look for a nice rigid 90s mtb
>>
>>1329534
It's not that hard to convert to 1x and there's varying levels you can do it to. You could just use your current middle ring, get some shorter bolts, washers or a bash guard, and use it with a chain keeper, or even just your derailer fixed to stop it slipping. Or get a narrow-wide ring and use that with a 9spd chain.
The main advantage of a new bike with a purpose built 1x drivetrain is you'll get more range.

>is it worth it
If only there was some way for us to gauge the quality of your bike on this imageboard....
the other anon is wrong though that it's definately a shitter, thats not true at all, an 8 spd bike isn't bottom end and time is not such a cruel mistress.
>>
I kinda want to ride at night but I'm afraid of getting run over or mugged. I have bike and helmet lights, front and rear for both. Am I just paranoid?
>>
>>1329396
Damn. Thanks for the info. The few modern-looking road bikes on craigslist seem to often have a sort of foam.
>>
>>1329671
I went for my first solo night ride a few days ago and it was a bit scary. Nothing happened, though. It's probably fine.
>>
Anything I should know about the Schwinn LeTour II? I can get one for $60 and I had a friend a few years back who seemed to be a fan of LeTours.
>>
>>1329706
27" wheels, hiten steel frame
the later ones were better, spec changes a lot between models
it's an alright bike though, 60 for anything that rides is reasonable

If it's in poor condition though, it won't be worth it.

Also, you should try find something better if you can, with 700c wheels and a chromoly frame from the 80s/90s
>>
>>1329707
Thanks for the quick reply. Would a Raleigh Marathon or Raleigh Grand Prix be much better? They're $80 and $100 respectively, but I could probably spare the expensive if it'll be worth it. $100 is probably my max for now. I'd like to just get riding and then maybe if I find work I'll get something better later on.
>>
>>1329708
I'm pretty sure you've already posted these bikes and I've said my 2c
>>
>>1329709
I'm actually not sure if I did or not. Thanks for your time.
>>
>>1329710
anyway there's variance between those models so its hard to say just off that
and condition matters as much as spec really because you probably don't want to have to completely overhaul something so cheap.
>>
>>1329711
I'm pretty broke, so I think I'm just gonna try to get something for under $100 and if it sucks I'll probably ride it that way until I can get a whole different bike or maybe repair/upgrade stuff it that seems worth doing. I have some family members that are a similar height, so I could maybe pass the bike on to them if I got something nicer in the next couple years.
>>
>>1329728
cheap beaters have their place man go for it
>>
>>1329728
Why not save 100 for 10 month and now you can buy a 1000 bike?
>>
>>1329736
No income. My $100 is from stuff like birthdays and christmas. It has been sitting there for several months without going up more.
>>
>>1329739
So, ehm, get a.. job?
>>
>>1329744
That'll just reduce riding time, and there's not much I need money for. I want to enjoy my freedom.
>>
>>1329754
filthy neet. go shower and get literally any minimum wage job.
>>
>>1329754
>>1329772
You know I'm literally posting this from a tent but everything I've done over the last 11 days has been about researching, developing and networking to get a trike motor running so I can start a pedicab buisness.

Think about that anon
>>
>>1329776
Yes we're all VERY aware
>>
>>1329776
we know, and my advice still stands.
>>
>>1329772
I actually keep very clean and shower every day even if I have nothing to do. Even if I just took a 3 hour nap I suddenly feel "unshowered". I shouldn't keep going off-topic, but just felt like replying to that.
>>
>>1329776
>PEDICAB BUSINESS

when commie electric scooters and startups are flooding our streets and markets ??

YOU HAVENT DONE YOUR RESEARCH PAL
>>
>>1329785
You do know thats bad for you right?
>>
what does it mean if the metal thing with the two tiny cogs starts hitting the spokes when the front gear is on the lower positions?
>>
>>1329889
Bent derailleur hanger
>>
>>1329889
your rear derailer?
it means the hanger is bent, or the low limit screw isn't set right
look at it, do the two little wheels line up straight with the cogs?
if not, adjust limits

and if your derailer ever jams DONT pedal through it, just stop
>>
>>1329891
will check soon. it doesnt jam but it hits the spokes lightly so it sounds like im playing some kind of instrument
>>
>>1329892
well.. its not straight but if i pull it with my finger then it moves enough to be. i just need to find some adjusting thing that makes it stay in that position
>>
>>1329895
don't try to bend the derailer
if something is bent, if the jockey wheels don't line up vertically, it will be the hanger the derailer threads into which is bent. Not the derailer.
If you try to bend the derailer, you'll just cause an extra unsolveable problem.

You need to unbolt the derailer with an allen key, and you can ghetto bend the hanger with a crecent wrench, or use a proper hanger alignment tool
>>
>>1329898
looks like i have to buy more tools then. will just keep using it on the higher gears until i can do that.
>>
>>1329903
you can also just adjust the limit screw as a stopgap measure
the two little philips screws on the derailer
the one closest to the wheel
will affect how far over it can move at that end
>>
>>1329905
i could try to take the part to the lbs on monday too.. they usually dont want too much money if you dont take the whole bike there and its very likely that they already have the tools and skills that are needed to do it right.
>>
>>1329922
if your derailer isn't straight, then the hanger is bent, and that's on the frame so you'd have to take it all in

if you want to adjust your limit screws so the derailer doesn't move as far over, thats something a monkey with a screw driver could do and needs to be done with it on the bike
>>
What do you use to clean your bike parts? The bike I just bought hasn't been cleaned in 30+ years, has all sorts of crusty black gunk on all moving parts. Pls be something I can buy at Walmart, there aren't any other stores out here.
>>
How do I install sks longboard fenders? I got really fucked of trying them install for 3 hours. The applied manual is uncomprehensible.
>>
>>1324940
How does one make the choice of hard tail or full suspension bike for mountain biking? I'm talking singletrack and cross country kind of stuff.
>>
>>1326710
Imagine being so shit tier at photography you contre jour a shot and totally lose the detail you really wanted (i.e. the peloton).
>>
>>1329671
you're paranoid.
every time I was hit it was daylight.
there's way less traffic at night and you can hear them from farther away better.
how is a mugger going to approach you when you're twice as fast as him when you're just farting around?
>>
>>1330005
I use Simple Green. you can dump it in your sink or yard with no consequence. some rec kerosene etc but they have to burn it when they're done since it can't go down drains and if you pour it into the ground you're a piece of shit who doesn't into water tables.
>>
>>1330018
fender installation is honestly one of the hardest bike repairs.
the velo orange blogs have a ton of fender advice, search for that?
>>
>>1330005
wd40 and rubbing alcohol
>>
>>1330005
Everclear.
>>
>>1330035
if the hard tail you already own limits you, you buy a fully. if you don't already own a hard tail, buy a hard tail.
>>
>>1330018
you watch a YouTube video
>>
>>1330059
I had a hard tail, but it was a 26" shitbox with a terrible fork, shitty hydraulics (the pads alignment was always fucked), and the wheels could never stay true. I don't know if those problems were from the lesser quality of the bike is the thing.
>>
Is there a way to get rid of foot pain when out of the saddle on my mountain bike? I use clipless pedals on my bike and when I'm going downhill out of the saddle my feet start to hurt really bad. Is there a way to remedy this.
>>
>>1330070
consider your cleat placement
consider stiffer soles
>>
>>1330056
> the velo orange blogs have a ton of fender advice, search for that?
They talk only about THEIR fenders
>>1330060
I can't find a decent one which might explain well
>>
>>1330035
First, budget. If you don't have FS money, it's very simple.

Second, terrain. If you aren't riding on things where FS would be useful in the first place, you don't get FS.

>>1330063
You mean like a used 400 dollar sport tier suntour XCT class thing?

>>1330018
It really depends on the holes in your bike.
>>
>>1324940
I just bought a fuji rakan 1.5 2018 for $2969.
Did I screw up?
>>
>>1330005
kerosene and rags
>>
How do you get over the fear of being mutilated? Had two accidents this year already. First one I lost traction on the road with my front wheel while turning and broke several bones in my face, and the second I was rear-ended and hit the asphalt (few scrapes, bit of neck and butt soreness but really got off lightly, apart from my bike which did not)

Then on today's ride two incidents stand out: Motorcyclist overtaking round a corner coming the other direction and going like 40mph towards me, spooked me. Then I'm going downhill and there's this dude in a car in a minor road looking to turn onto the road I'm on - and he fucking looks at me and drives into the road as if I wasn't there. Like nigger are you trying to kill me
>>
what kind of tools am i gonna need if i want to build a fixed gear? thinking that's the way to go since i dont want to buy a piece of shit $300-$450 one or spend $800-900 one only to replace the crankset wheels etc.
>>
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My front hub has become squeaky.
Noticed some small sounds coming from the bike earlier on, but it was really difficult to pinpoint where from and it only happened when I was out riding.

Now after I removed my front wheel and put it back on, I found that the sound was coming from the front wheel. It has become obnoxiously loud now.

I'm a bit unsure where exactly I can apply lube on this thing to alleviate the noise.
It's a thru axle
>>
>>1330238
depends on what market you are in. but in the US a 2019 Rakan 1.5 is 2499.
>>
>>1330037
it was literally something that a loonie did, it wasn't planned by anybody.
>>
>>1330380
It's always a good idea to apply a thin layer of grease to your thru axles. Try that and report back. The squeakiness could also be from a seal on the cartridge bearings. Might be a good time to replace them if you've had a lot of miles on the wheels.
>>
How do you guys transport your lock? Should I just attach it to my bike before riding? Otherwise I could put it in a backpack, but I don't always ride with a backpack.
>>
>>1330400
Tried to sensually lube up the shaft but didn't really help. The wheels haven't gone THAT far, so I'd be surprised. However, will probably have to figure out how to disassemble the front hub then
>>
What the fuck is this thing. Some idiot on Craigslist wants 3009$ for it.
>>
>>1330453
Are you sure it was not $39?
>>
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Is there any difference between spinning bikes and regular stationary bikes ? Today at the gym I decided to do some cardio afterwards since I was too lazy to ride there on my bike like I usually do (it was raining and I didnt feel like it).

They had only a few regular stationary bikes and they didnt look as appealing as the spinning bikes that were in a seperate (and also slightly cooler) room. So I went to the spinning bike and set up the seat so I almost had the same position as I would have on my road bike. Felt pretty good honestly, I didnt follow the retarded video instructions and going out of the saddle is really awkward since the spinning bike is so fucking short but otherwise it felt really good. Just putting your head down, sometimes even closing my eyes and pushing through is really comfy. Just way too much sweat literally dripping all over the place otherwise it is great.

So is "spinning" good training for cycling ? Or should I rather stick to the regular stationary bikes ? Only drawback I guess is there was no display on the spinning bikes so I have little idea how much power I put out. But the position on that spinning bike was definitely MUCH closer to my roadbike than the stationary would have been...
>>
>>1330464
Nope 3000 fucking dollars. Or a 20 to 50 hp boat engine.
>>
>>1330453
https://thecabe.com/forum/threads/bf-goodrich-challenger-middleweight.12002/

One of these maybe. I did an image search for "challenger bike" because I saw the word challenger in your pic, and it seems to have the same weird frame geometry.
>>
Why am I sitting indoors posting here when I could be out riding before it gets dark?
>>
>>1330424
If I'm going somewhere, it goes in the pannier.
At work, I leave it there.
Don't carry a lock otherwise.
>>1330619
go go go anon
don't regret the ride not ridden
>>
I need new shoes. Current ones are some leather converse. Can I get anything decent for $40 or so? Good for biking, but also walking and maybe running.
>>
>>1330895
Get SPD clipless
>>
>>1330944
>running in clipless shoes

>>1330895
I personally prefer Oxfords and other similar shoes with a rubber sole. They have a stiffer sole than athletic type shoes which is good for cycling, but not so much that it's especially hard to run in them. Leather soles are stiffer but are very slippery. I used to play racquetball in something like this.
>>
>>1330005
Automotive wheel clear

>>1330304
Motorcycle armor. Wising up to how drivers operate - IE staying far fuck away from trailer trucks. Check if your wheels are true and impacting your handling. Adjust your brakes so you can modulate your speed better. Put mirrors on your bike. Look the fuck around you. Always have an escape option and don't ride in the shoulder like a pussy. Cars must pass you as if you were a vehicle.

https://youtu.be/IAOHWV6ZaPI

>>1330424
Mine has a frame mount, if I ride my other bike without the mount affixed (it's a pain to get on/off/adjust and the lock is discontinued) then I stuff it in my backpack or downtube bag. I nearly always ride with a backpack because I carry first aid, a patch kit and wrenches, and things like bungee cords in case I find something interesting to pick up along the way.

>>1330453
It looks like it has drum brakes.

>>1330895
*sip* New Balance
>>
Do they make bigger water bottle holders you can buy? I use a 40oz hydroflask at home and it'd be nice to not have to get another water bottle for biking.
>>
>>1331415
Yes, but I don't recommend it. Just get two 24 oz bottles, preferably insulated. How big is your frame? You might even have issues fitting those in there.
>>
>>1331605
I think my frame is 54cm or so
>>
>>1331617
You should consider sideloading cages then.
>>
>>1329396
How much do I need to cover all of my handlebars? I'm looking at this:
https://www.amazon.com/Cinelli-Cork-Ribbon-Handlebar-Black/dp/B003GB8RK0/
>>
>>1331636
That should have two rolls, plenty enough for your bars. You'll probably cut a bit off at the end. Also watch a video or two on how to wrap bars.



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