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Please post your budget, height, and requirements in a bike,. Someone will be more likely to help you if you include this information.

Some dedicated anons will give recommendations if you post your local craigslist too. May Sheldon Brown give favour to them on their rides.

Old thread:>>1268273
>>
These two anons still need advice.
1. >>1287004
2. >>1286901

Is there any /n/ copypasta for this general?
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>>1287761
the latter guy got loads of advice in his own thread

for the which gravel bike question, both those bikes are awesome, i would suggest he gets whichever one he likes more for arbitrary aesthetic reasons.
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>>1287761
7004 anon here, thanks for lookin out for me. >>1287775 you too
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i've been in the market for a folding bike since I live in a condo and have limited storage. I'd also like to be able to just throw it in the car and take it on trips.

I've been looking at these Downtube bikes, specifically the 8s, and was wondering if it was worth getting one of these than buying a Dahon or Tren.
>>
Before I pull the trigger on the multiple suggestions i got, still had this >>1287153
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>>1287946
it doesn't matter, as long as it isn't too small for you.
but if you're looking to ride for exercise, not just comfy cruising on the flat and short commutes, then I'd get something else.
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>>1287951
Alright, looking for exercise/commute, the low price on the raleigh grabbed my attention but if it isn't going to work then I guess not.
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>>1287953
I still think that bridgestone is by far your best option
go ride it and see if you like it, and do as they say, take cash with you, they might take 180, and they'll definately take 200
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How do I know what bike size is right for me?

Is a taller seat height a good substitute for a smaller frame? Will this result in bad posture, and neck pains?
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>>1288007
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>>1288007
handling will be wonky and if you don't get a long enough stem, you'll get wrist pains not neck pains.
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>>1288010
>>1288015
I'm 5'7" and the bike is 50 cm, it's a marin nicasio, road bike geometry

I can just touch the ground with my toes when sitting on the bike

I haven't experienced any issues with handling I don't think. It just feels a bit small.
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>>1288020
The bike is likely too small for you. This site says you should be on a 54-55: https://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/frame-sizer/road-bike/size-sheet?utf8=%E2%9C%93&u=in&r=man&h=1701.8&i=&b=Calculate

You can also adjust the fit. You could raise your seatpost, get a longer stem, etc. When you're sitting on the bike and have your feet on the pedals, when your leg is in the most extended position (crankarm in the lowest position) your knee should have only a slight bend in it. I want to say around 20 degrees, but I don't recall if 20 degrees is accurate so maybe another anon can advise.
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Hi, I'm new to bikes in general and am just looking for something to commute to and from work, pick up groceries etc. I'm 175cm tall i believe. Max I would like to spend would be around $1300 AUD.
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>>1289082
You have a few options. You can get a flat bar hybrid like the Kona Dew, Marin Fairfax, Trek FX, Specialized Sirrus, GT Tachyon, Cannondale Bad Boy, or Giant Escape. If you get a hybrid, make sure to get an actual hybrid, not a "comfort bike" or cruiser (which people sometimes mistakenly call hybrids). Also, do NOT get a bike with a suspension fork. Some hybrids come with suspension forks but that's just unnecessary weight. You don't want suspension for your uses.

Otherwise you could go with a cyclocross-style bike (not a bike designed for cyclocross racing, but rather, a commuter bike that has the same geometry as a cyclocross race bike) or a "gravel bike". Options include the Salsa Vaya, Surly Sraggler, All-City Macho Man, Kona Rove, and Kona Jake. These are fairly similar to hybrids but they have drop bars instead of flat bars.

Lastly, you could go with a road bike. These bikes will generally be a bit faster and slightly more aggressive than the other bikes I mentioned. They will not handle as well on gravel/dirt, and will be a little less comfortable especially on long rides, but they're great if you just want to go fast on pavement. You should specifically get a commute-oriented road bike (as opposed to one that's more for sport riding). Options include the Surly Pacer, All-City Space Horse, or a used road bike from the 80s or 90s. Old used road bikes can be great and perform just as well as a modern bike, and at least in the US one can be had got 100-300 dollars. The only real downside of a used bike is that you may need to have some parts adjusted and/or replaced. Bikes from the 80s-90s make excellent commuter bikes.

Make sure to get a bike that has eyelets for fenders and racks. Not all bikes do. While clip-on fenders and racks exist, they suck. You definitely want a bike with eyelets so that it can accept the standard style of racks and fenders.
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>>1289082
>>1289098
cont.

You'll want a bike made of either steel or aluminum. Carbon bikes are nice for riding fast, but they're not so good for commuting. They're more valuable and as such more likely to be stolen, they are less likely to have eyelets for racks/fenders, and they don't offer much advantage for commuting.
When deciding between steel and aluminum, steel is a bit heavier and can rust, but it's more comfortable and fun to ride. I prefer steel over aluminum, but it comes down to personal preference.

You have a good budget for a new bike, but set some aside for accessories such as a helmet, lights, lock, a pump (you should be checking your tire pressure once a week or so because tires lose air over time from sitting), rack, fenders, panniers (bags that are designed to fit on a bike rack to carry groceries, work clothes, etc), bottle cages (water bottle holders), water bottles, and a saddle bag with some emergency repair stuff (multitool, spare tubes, tire levers, portable mini pump, etc)
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>>1289098
>>1289099
Thanks for the info, I didn't think about the extra costs included. I'll have a look at the bikes you mentioned and see what I can find in my area.
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>>1289106
If you want a hybrid, get a Marin Muirwoods
https://www.bicyclesonline.com.au/marin-muirwoods-29er-commuter-bike
$750 there
The coloured options look better in person too
Or atleast try find one to test ride

Being a chromoly steel frame, unlike everything else in the pricerange which is aluminium, it has a superior ride quality. Try it and you'll see what I mean.
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>>1288020
post a picture of it
adjust the seatpost so you've got proper extension before you do that, so we get a better idea of your position on it. That likely is a size or two too small, but you can probably adapt it to work if you have to.
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is this a good buy for $375? it's a Bassi Roma-Tokyo with a flip flop hub.
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>>1289119
I'm currently riding pic related, a vintage Gardin frame. I've added a front break and riser bars, but I still don't love the bike and I'm thinking I might enjoy the bassi more. but I also don't want to get into the habit of spending too much just for the sake of it
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>>1289120
firstly this is an imageboard, post large pictures of atleast your own bike please

I can't even see if that gardin is a conversion of a track frame. If it's the former, the actual fixed gear frame will probably have quicker handling and be twitchier. Which you might like or you might not. The straight blade fork will be harsher. What else do you even expect?
The Bassi still has a quill stem. If you wanted a better fixie, you should be looking for something with a modern threadless front end. That makes the front end stiffer, so it's better for throwing around sprinting or climbing. Smoother too. I fucking hate newish faux-vintage bikes which still spec quill stems. It's archaic tech which is fine but belongs solely on old bikes and cheap shitters. As a fashion choice, it's pathetic. As far as I can see, the Bassi is still just 4130 tubing too. It's not a particuraly flash bike.

If you're gonna n+1 maybe get something a bit different. If you want a better fixie, just upgrade what you have or look for something modern.
my 2c
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>>1289113
Here's the bike

I like the handling a lot, I just feel like I'm a bit too hunched down over the handlebars while riding
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>budget: 1,000usd
>height: 5.5"
>bike : Mountain hardtail
>craigslist: not usa/euro

I want a short, lively hardtail. Used or new. Its gonna be used for a lot of climbing.
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>>1289142
that saddle to bar drop is non existent, you shouldn't need the bars much higher
you should get a longer stem
what you might take as being hunched over could be that you aren't stretching out enough
a longer stem would also raise the bars slightly as well, as you can have it angling up, as it is now.
you could also tilt the bars up very slightly

try something 20mm longer. That looks maybe 80mm, maybe even shorter, so i'd try a 100mm or a 90mm stem.

~20 mm longer, slightly higher, tilted up slightly, could make all the difference.
You could also get a stem with a steeper angle, but if you make a big change you'll have to re-cable the bike. The cables look quite tight so you'll be pushing it already.

100mm (the length) 31.8mm (your bar clamp) 1.1/8" (your steerer) is what you want, you should be able to get a cheap one online for like $15. Maybe get a couple sizes, 90 & 100 or 100 & 110 so you can experiment.

In terms of the handling, generally you want your hand position to be directly over the front axle. So pushing it forward a bit should actually improve your handling, because currently it's slightly rearward.

Yeah maybe it's a size small, but I think you can make it work.
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>>1289143
post some of your options man
I don't know what the bike shops you have available are.
Most brands will have a relatively similar decent XC 27.5 hardtail at that price.

I think the thing you're gonna be looking for that some may not have is tubeless, definitely worth doing.
But otherwise, it's gonna all be a 1x group, hydros, and an entry level real fork.
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>>1289142
Also do planks for a couple minutes a day and then stretch after
If you improve your core strength, you'll feel better on a bike. Cycling requires core strength but it doesn't build it whatsoever.
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>>1289146
I can choose from pretty much any big brand like specialized, Scott, trek, giant, etc.
But the thing is I want a small, short geometry bike. I like Merida geometry, and specialized bikes feel just too big and long.
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>>1289149
sounds like you know what you're doing anon
if you've got something specific you want opinions on ask but otherwise iunno what to say

maybe look at womens bikes
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>>1289149
hell sometimes i wish i was a manlet just because womens colourschemes are often so much better

pink purple or blue bikes look really cool imo
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>>1289149
and yeah just don't get a 29er
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>>1289151
I remember one time I went to my LBS and loved the color scheme of the Women's Rockhopper. At first I didn't know, but when I searched for that bike I realized it was the woman's specific model.
>>1289150
>sounds like you know what you're doing anon
No, not really. I can only speak relative to the bikes I have owned, and definitely the one that I really liked was a Merida Big Seven 20. I was thinking on buying another Merida, like the Big Seven 500, but I'm not sure. Maybe the problem is bike sizing, since I have a medium size hardtail right now.
>>1289152
I really really wanted to try a 29er Giant Fathom. I've heard 29ers are better for climbing.
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>>1289165
>I've heard 29ers are better for climbing.
it just doesn't make proportional sense for smol people

the other thing you might want to look for, aside from tubeless, is thru axles. I think that merida has quick release.
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I need a bike for commuting, getting around town and campus and such. I am 6'2" and I would like to spend as little as possible.
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>>1289179
post your craigslist lad
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>>1289180
https://nashville.craigslist.org/
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>>1289169
>it just doesn't make proportional sense for smol people
this, almost 10 years ago I bought into the 29er hype koolaid. I'm a 5'6" in between size of Smol or Manlet. I made the mistake of picking Manlet over Smol and it was such an awkwardly huge bike. Even if I picked the Smol I'm sure it would still be awkwardly huge because of how huge 29er mtb wheels. Not a problem with 700c road wheels though
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>>1289182
https://nashville.craigslist.org/bik/d/smyrna-beautiful-commuter-21-spd/6818289976.html
kinda shitty but cheap and prob comfy to cruise on just bad for riding hills or distances
https://nashville.craigslist.org/bik/d/nashville-58cm-ross-roadbike/6797753597.html
overpriced, i'd offer $100 in person if you like it, maybe even try $80. fine beater
https://nashville.craigslist.org/bik/d/nashville-marin-muirwoods/6802070212.html
maybe a bit small and the suspension is bad, but good bike, good price, good condition otherwise, might b good
https://nashville.craigslist.org/bik/d/murfreesboro-raleigh-detour-2/6804369775.html
https://nashville.craigslist.org/bik/d/trek-fx-hybrid-73-series/6806685045.html
modern hybrids
https://nashville.craigslist.org/bik/d/nashville-ghost-speedline/6788625228.html
$$ option, very good if you could haggle it down a bit

https://nashville.craigslist.org/bik/d/murfreesboro-specialized-cross-roads/6815200696.html
https://nashville.craigslist.org/bik/d/smyrna-bianchi-mountain-hybrid-commuter/6801379162.html
these two are really where it's at, just a bit small, but you might want to check them out and adjust with a stupid riser stem/ bar and they might make good beaters anyway.
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>>1289182
>https://nashville.craigslist.org/
https://nashville.craigslist.org/bik/d/murfreesboro-raleigh-mtb-58-cm/6824116008.html
There's a road bike or two that'd fit you but this is a solid start.
I recommend replacing the tires with 26x2" Thickslick Comps, other than that it wouldn't hurt to repack the hubs with fresh grease.
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>>1289187
wow that Bianchi is a deal for the wheels and componentry alone
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>hardtail mountain bike
>recreational riding of local firetrails/singletrack, nothing competitive and I have no plans on bombing down the hills at high speed, but tracks are muddy/covered in leaves & moss, so would prefer proper mountain bike tyres, not thin strips
>180cm
>can't really justify spending more than a $500-$1000, I'm not planning on racing
https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-bicycles/cambewarra-south-coast-nsw/c18560l3004333r50
The used market seems like crap though so was thinking of buying something new from bicycles online like https://www.bicyclesonline.com.au/polygon-premier-4.0-mountain-bike or maybe a 29" model
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>>1289216
2018 Cube Analog, preferably new and Large frame. You should be able to get it for something something 1,000 AUD.
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I wanna try out mountain biking on a full sus bike.
I cant afford stuff thats to recent so im looking for good older stuff .
handling should be a modern as possible.

I've been thing something with 26 inch wheels for a good price drop , something like ~ 140mm fork travel and a good suspension design.

I've been looking at the giant anthem from 2012 to 2014 since I heard their suspension design is actually pretty advanced.

are there any other bike the I should look out for ?

also I was thinking about buying one size up to compansate the shorter toptubes and putting on a contemporary cockpit.
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https://mybikeshop.com/products/2018-bombtrack-audax-650b-urban-road-bicycle.html

This feels comparable to an All City Cosmic Stallion, is $1700 a good deal?
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>>1289626
I was looking at these recently and wondering why anyone would spend enough money for a 105 carbon road bike on a 105 steel road bike.

I haven't come up with an answer, yet.
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>>1289641
Does it matter what kind of steel at least? Seems like Reynolds 935 and Columbus SLX are supposed to be hard enough that they'll last a lifetime, but I've never had first hand experience with it.
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>>1289641
>>1289626

that's because bombtrack is a shit brand that sell overprice pseudo boutique bikes with outdated geometries (the audax is even one of their better ones).
any of their bikes can be had in better and cheaper from another brand.
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how do i get a shitty police auction bike highway worthy so i can pull a baby carrier full of fishing gear to a lake. Ièm 6'4
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>>1289660
Yeah, it does matter. It's not so much about longevity, as ride quality. Higher grade steel is stronger for the weight but generally cheaper steel bikes like surlys are just heavier, not weaker. And being thicker walled tubing, they kind of have a dull ride.

I've got an 853 gunnar crosshairs made in wisconsin
and i've also briefly owned a 4130 surly crosscheck

they're basically the same bike at different pricepoints, the gunnar frameset costs $1400 new, and the crosscheck frameset is $500

There's a big difference between the ride quality. High end steel is not a meme. If someone just wants a road bike, for road riding, steel is probably a waste of money. And if you just want a short distance commuter, high end steel is a waste of money. But if you want something to really last (my gunnar is almost 20 years old and the first owner thrashed it racing cyclocross for a decade, it's been crashed who knows how many times), tour on, commute loaded, ride gravel and still hold up as a somewhat decent road bike, I think they do make sense.
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>>1289682
lets see a good big picture of it
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>>1289216
Me again, I've been looking around, there are so many different combinations, I know I want a hardtail, but what tyre size for loose gravel, mud, wet leaves etc? Does it even matter that much?

As an aside I heard people saying you can ride road tyres (28c) on gravel OK (ala gravel bikes), to me, its not fine! I just sank straight through the gravel and got bogged/felt like swimming through water. as it carved a channel through.
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>>1289660
Stainless is great but tough to work with, so you need to go with experienced framebuilders. It's a lot like Ti in that regard. With crmo and its variants, lighter tubing is also more brittle due to the various techniques used to make it lighter. Frames made with lighter tubing tend to be more compliant, although some framebuilders will use OS tubing to improve stiffness. Many framebuilders mix tubing depending on rider characteristics, unless using stainless or Ti. It's one of the things that make custom bikes so damn nice.
>>
I just realized I've been scrolling past what I thought was a bso but looks to have a 3 speed and a belt drive for $25 are my eyes deceiving me?

https://fresno.craigslist.org/bik/d/fresno-bike/6818168839.html
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>>1289812
Yep. That thing 100% was stolen at some point.
>>
I know this isn't bike, but more gear question but...

Does anyone have any links or any recs for a big and tall SPD-SL or SPD shoe?

I need to find a 50 or 51 EU (US 15) in wide.

thanks bikebros
>>
how much should i be paying for a low-end ebike?
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A bike for:
Recreational riding on tarmac, gravel/sand and exploring forest roads. In equal proportions.
Sometimes spending a day on the road.
Long mudguards, bags and panniers.
Able to go relatively fast on tarmac.
Reliable frame material.
Fun.

Is Marin FC a good choice? Is there something with a lower price?

They weight doesn't bother me that much, it just consumes a bit more energy going uphill. I'm prepared for rustproofing the insides. I like the more upright position, easier to enjoy the scenery. It should be ok to flip the stem and remove the spacers for a "faster" position with less air resistance, right?
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>>1291364
Also forgot to add that I'd like a lot of tyre clearance, ~1.7" minimum, FC has enough for 2" tyres.
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>>1291364
I dunno why you're looking at a touring bike specifically unless you're doing touring. those bikes are made for riding fully loaded all the time, so that geometry probably isnt ideal. esp if you want something fun.

and very much especially considering EVERY fucking company ever is making this sort of gravel/all roads bike. Marin's Nicasio is more made for what you're going to do. If you want tire clearance, something like the Surly Straggler would be smart since they make those fuckers thicc. all-city also makes fantastic steel frames, and they have several bikes that do what youre after. just dont get a touring bike if youre not touring
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>>1291187
It's like $1000 minimium for the e-bike part and then the rest you're paying for bicycle, so you want to spend atleast $1500, as $500 is around the minimium for a good bicycle

If you go cheaper, you're not just cheaping out on preformance, you're getting something very low quality which will break.
The benchmark is, don't buy a 7 (21) speed bike. Look for something 8/9 speed.

I think the best option is a BBS02 or BBSHD mid-drive kit. They're not hard to fit, you can get better value for your money. To really save, put it on a good used deal bicycle.
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>>1291374
Fug maybe you are right, thanks for the advice, I'll look further, something for max 1000usd.
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>>1291364
>>1291368
all your specifications are met by a 90's steel frame rigid MTB that you lash some mudguards and a rack on.
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>>1291389
I think he wants to go faster than 9mph
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I used to have a $150 city bike that I just used to get around in my godforsaken hellhole of an European city, but it got stolen by you-know-who. It was a pretty cheap bike but I loved it. Where can I buy a similar one? Please help me frie/n/ds. I don’t know much about bikes, I bought the old one on Amazon but I can’t find anything decent on there anymore.
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>>1291396
Then he needs to lose some weight and put more power down. Well-maintained rigid MTBs aren't slow, unless you are.
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I want a bike to ride to uni but I know nothing about this stuff.

I want to save my money by buying a used one. There's lots of cheap options when looking online but how do I tell if they're going to fall apart in a month or not? Should I look for some specific brands or something?

I live in russia and there's tons of snow here as well, so I assume I'll need some kind of special tyres or something so I don't break my neck.
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>>1291374
>>1291388
When I'm comparing the geometry to bikes not designed for touring, FC is different in few areas, but people say it's still lively enough, doesn't feel sluggish. Other gravel bikes with similar tyre clearance are usually way more expensive, or I didn't find the right ones. Correct me if I'm wrong but it only gets more comfy with wider tyres and the traction is better on loose surface. Overall I'm a newfag to bikes.

Fuji bikes with similar price are ok too, but they have worse brakes than FC, there is also polish manufacturer Kross with Esker 4.0 but it's tad too expensive without an discount.
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>>1291425
>it only gets more comfy with wider tyres
yes that's true, but supple tires, without tough sidewalls, are just as important for comfort.

My 28mm grand prix 5000 are far more comfy than my 32mm marathon plus
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>>1291434
Marathon Plus are a special case. They're close to full rubber tires and never comfy, no matter how wide you buy them.
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>>1291454
It's any really heavy duty tire
basically if you don't run the small but real risk of slashing your sidewalls and fucking your tires at any time, they aren't comfy.
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>>1291421
Anyone?
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>>1291657
from the russians I see on strava the name brands on your bike are different but you all use the same shimano components.

You'll want a bike with Shimano 8speed or larger. 2 rings up front, 8 speeds in the back for a total of 16 at least. there are also shimano shifters for 9,10 and 11 speed. Do not buy a 7 speed in the back.

Since it's Russia and you'll be going over snow in the winter buy a bike that can fit tires of at least 38 mm wide. Most people I see ride a front suspension MTB but you can also have a road bike / gravel bike / cyclocross bike as long as you fit wide tires on there.

as fall approaches buy a set of studded snow tires to swap out when the perma-snow season comes (assuming you are in a cold part of russia).

If you can find a US brand there used Specialized and Trek are good popular brands here.
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>>1291421
Try to buy something without suspension
Old cheap suspension is likely to break, and adds weight, and doesn't do much.

The best red flag for cheap bikes, is a rear derailer that bolts on the axle with a metal claw, like on the left. Good bikes have derailers that thread into the frame like on the top right, or thread into replaceable hangers like the bottom right.

Beyond that, look for level of components (tourney, claris, altus, sora, acera, tiagra, deore, 105, deore xt, ultegra, xtr, dura ace), is the rough order, and there's difference between years too, but generally, if a bike has higher tier parts on it, it's good, and if it has tourney on it, or unbranded drivetrain parts it's not.

Look for the tubing used on the frame, especially if it's steel, indicating it's a higher grade steel. 'Hiten' steel is the cheapest. Anything butted or chromoly is good. Aluminium frames might say 6061 or 7005 which is good. A good newer aluminium bike should have a carbon fork.

Condition is as important, is the drivetrain worn? You can see wear on cassettes if you have a look at what unworn cassettes should look like, or even just compare between cogs. Wear on chainrings in the front is even worse, especially if they're sharp like shark tooths. That means the whole drivetrain needs to be replaced. Check the wheels are true, and spin smoothly. Check the bottom bracket spins smoothly, and the headset spins smoothly. Check the cables aren't cracked and it shifts and brakes well. If you can ride no hands, that's a good test to see if a frame is straight. If a bike can't, it might be something else, but if it can, that's a good sign. Scrutinise the frame for cracks. Lots of that stuff is just to haggle price and best done in person.

If you want opinions on specific bikes, post them.
Good luck anon.
And yes, you can get studded snow tires
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>>1291659
>Do not buy a 7 speed in the back.
This is good advice for new/newish bikes, but for 90s/80s bikes, 7 speed groups were top of the line, so if those are in good condition, they can be great buys.
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>>1291661
>>1291421
Someone stole the 10 year old $50 SLX derailleur off my bike last semester at my university. Honestly didn't even know that was a thing that people targeted but they evidently cut my chain and shift cable with bolt cutters and just unbolted the whole damn derailleur.

Basically what I'm saying is to not go above the base Deore tier for a college/commute bike. Otherwise you make yourself a target for component thieves no matter how well you lock it. Not fun to have to spend another $50 or whatever for a new midrange derailleur and shift cable and then have to spend an hour getting it to shift right again.
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>>1291710
what happened to you is utterly meaningless to anyone else and old STX is not high value kit whatsoever but sorry man that sucks I think really that shit was just at the whim of some crackhead pscyho and could have been anything it's crazy to steal an old midrange derailer

having to spend an hour tuning the replacement is on you lol
>>
>>1291714
Commas, motherfucker. Use them.
>>
Fit told me hybrids are a waste of money is that true
>>
>>1291810
not necessarily
but if you want a bike for serious cardio, then yes, you should get a drop bar road bike and if you don't and you get into cycling, you, like many before you, will regret a hybrid purchase.

They have their place as good casual bikes though, if you don't have a good used market.
>>
>>1291812
I have a road bike and I use it often. I’m looking at getting a cheap hybrid for some trails in my area. Some of them are dirt and maybe stone, nothing rough but it’s enougn that I don’t want to take my road bike on it. I figured I needed something a little more robust and maybe a hybrid would do the job. A mountain bike seems too much
>>
>>1291817
gravel biek
>>
>>1291817
8 or 9 speed
not 7 on a new bike, that's excessively cheap and will be all round shitty
rigid fork

if you have a good used market a 90s rigid mtb might be better.

you could totally take any road bike on that kind of thing though.
>>
>>1291818
Do you have a rec? Trying to keep it relatively cheap desu
>>
>>1291819
I found a Raleigh Mojave 5.0 for $60
>>
>>1291821
rigid fork lad
>>
>budget
$300
>height
5'11''
>requirements
looking for a road bike thats comfortable for long rides
>craigslist
https://losangeles.craigslist.org/
>>
>>1291993
Btwin
>>
>>1291993
You've got a few good options anon

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/bik/d/castaic-centurion-dave-scott/6826334274.html
these are really solid 90s race bikes. High quality. I would guess condition is very good. This would be my pick, but get something you like for arbitrary reasons too.

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/bik/d/canondale-cad3-fully-upgraded/6824070875.html
lighter and stiffer and kinda harsh ride quality due to being early aluminium not steel. very decent fast classic bike. possibly a bit big. More modern. STI shifters, better brakes. Could be worse condition than the older options though.

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/bik/d/los-angeles-vintage-torelli-road-bike/6827126864.html
vintage italian roadie. These can be quite special. Clusterfuck parts on it. Needs rescuing and the horrid stickers removed. Could be magic to ride or could be not. It's hard to tell with these bikes. This would have been expensive once upon a time. Parts are older and less functional than both above.

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/bik/d/los-angeles-raleigh-proline-100/6827423796.html
I think this is ugly and the above 3 are the best options by far but it's not bad, and quite modern.

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/bik/d/bridgestone-mb-5-hybrid-comfort-bike/6818114376.html
here's your comfy utility meme touring option. Very decent. The dumb bars could be changed easily. Fits wide tires so good on gravel. Condition looks v good.

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/bik/d/los-angeles-bianchi-road-bike/6829475689.html
decent poorfag option but much lower end than all above and old tire size which is limiting.

If you buy something come back and post some pictures of it
>>
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>>1292032
pic related is what you get for $300
garbage hiten fork and shit alum frame
fucking stem shifters
1x and tourney so you're not even getting wide gearing
chinesium parts

his used options are absurdly superior
>>
>>1291993
oh yeah also on all of those, there's haggling room. do it in person though. people take cash offers they won't accept on the phone if you wave the cash under their nose and are nice to them
>>
>>1291810
everyone has said this for ages because hybrids were typically only offered at the lower price points because more serious riders would spend more on higher end road bikes. At the core of the idea hybrids are good at exactly what they are designed for, multiuse, multi surface riding. Since ALL ROAD GRAVEL BIKES are the new hit thing, you can get a road bike with drops or flat bars that tick many of the attributes of a hybrid but on a better bike.

>>1291820
>relatively cheap
Relative to what? How about you post what your budget is for christ's sake.
>>
>>1291817
any used mountain bike where the fork isn't fucked out or any fixed mtn or hybrid with wide knobbies should do the trick for light, flat, 'recreational' style trails.

And yea, a hybrid would be fine. Get whatever fits just make sure it has wide tires.

Personally since you have a bike you already like and just need one for a trail or two I'd hit up the used market.
>>
>>1292063
thanks for this, will definitely post pictures, going to do some calls now
>>
should I buy this? It looks badass and I read some good reviews. It seems like a good deal.

city commuter

https://www.rei.com/rei-garage/product/156194/cannondale-bad-boy-4-bike-2017
>>
>>1292415
nah, its a meme bike. no braze on's for a rack, no way to mount fenders. so you'll be stuck with your stuff in a shitty backpack, sweaty back, and dirty/wet ass/legs/feet. skip it, and get something that's actually a practical commuter.
>>
>>1292424
damn i didn't notice that
>>
>>1292415
It's not too bad, but not really good either. You can't easily put on decent mudguards, only clip-on shit ones, and they've dumped the most bottom-spec parts in the most important places again, namely crank, hubs and BB. Those pretty much determine how well your bike rolls and how much energy you lose when pedalling.
>>
>>1292415
this is a more practical choice for the same money. triple crank, decent tires, eyelets for rack/fender, rei warranty. just ad your finishing kit and you're good.
>>
>>1292437
forgot link lolol
https://www.rei.com/product/121596/co-op-cycles-cty-11-bike
>>
>>1292439
>https://www.rei.com/product/121596/co-op-cycles-cty-11-bike
>aluminium fork

i would almost prefer a lefty lol
>>
>>1292439
somebody in another thread said the joytech hubs would rust and that i should look for a complete named Shimano group. I have no idea of the significance of any of that
>>
>>1292446
You should probably look at hubs with cartridge bearings instead of Shimano's cup and cone bullshit if you are worried about weather related durability.
>>
>>1292442
he has $500? that doesn't go very far.
>>
>>1292446
That was me. This is the best offering on REI in my opinion:
https://www.rei.com/product/145841/cannondale-quick-7-bike-2019

>sealed hubs
>no Aluminum or Hi-Ten fork
>entire drivetrain Shimano, most of it named
>eyelets for rack/fenders
For that you lose the disc brakes, which I've heard bad things about (shit to adjust, warping, squeaking) at this price point but have no personal experience with.

You're still buying a bag full of compromises, but you're buying a cheap new bike, so...
>>
>>1292453
That looks awesome. I don't have a big problem with no disc brakes. If I feel that I really need them I can upgrade when I feel more comfortable spending a lot.

I live in Seattle, where the flagship store is, so they'll probably have one in stock that I can try.
>>
>>1292452
$500 goes very far, if you're willing to buy used.
>>
>>1292460
OK, but as an inexperienced buyer, it isn't easy to find something used that you'll enjoy more, simply because there's no one to fit the bike to you.
You'll get better components, lighter weight and more likely than not pain in your wrists, sore shoulders and a numb taint.
>>
What brands have good frames on their built bicycles for the price?
>>
>>1292541
Price/quality is pretty much the same on all the big volume brands. And no matter what's your budget, finding a frame geometry that fits you well is a lot more important than a frame that weighs 100g less.
>>
alright so im in the market for an electric bike,mainly because im not a fan of cars and this seems like a nice alternative
does anybody have any recommendations? price is flexible
>>
>>1292634
>price is flexible
Well, then...
https://www.focus-bikes.com/us_en/43250-jarifa-ex

My recommendation would be to decide on a budget and use case first. $2.5k will give you an all-around great E-bike, less than that and there will be some compromises. At least tell us if you want to go off-roading up and down mountains or commuting on road.
>>
>>1292557
Isn't frame geometry more for the type if riding rather than the rider?

I already know I'm around the 49-51 range. Just want to know what to look for if I can't keep my desire for a N+1 down.
>>
>>1292557
Trek tends to be more expensive than other big brands. Specialized is a little more expensive, but they have better deals at some price points than Trek does. I think that the smaller guys like Diamondback, Norco, Kona, and Salsa are better value. The Journeyman is my favorite new bike under 1k. It's a bit heavier than I'd like but for its use case that's no big whoop.
>>
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Can someone tell me how the size XS and S compare to the size 52 Tarmac? I never know if the small differences in measurements actually make a big difference in real life.
The XS looks to be very similar in size. I would like to buy this one but unfortunately I don't have the chance to see it in the shop. Only to order online.
>>
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Is it possible to tell from this picture if this hub has sealed bearings?
>>
>>1292649
mostly commuting on road
>>
>>1292697
It's cup and cone, you can tell by the rubber flange
>>
>>1292941
I didn't know there was a bike buy thread. whoops. I just want to ride 2-3 miles to and from work and just drive less in general..
>>
>>1292948
The issue with bikes is that there's no regulation like for new cars. Car regulations make sure a new car meets a minimum of quality to be allowed on the road. That minimum costs $12k (2019 Nissan Versa).
For a new bike, that minimum quality costs $500. But there are no regulations, so bikes below that minimum can be sold, too.

What I'm trying to say is: A $200 bike is equivalent in quality to a new $4800 car. It really doesn't matter what $200 bike you choose, it'll always be shit, probably not even assembled correctly, and fall apart quickly. Post your local Craigslist and height, so we can help you find a good used bike for that price.
>>
>>1292951
6'1" (33" legs if that matters)
detroit.craigslist.com
>>
>>1292991
If this is in the condition it says it is, it'll be right for your size and use case, and a good deal. All you need is a new $7 inner tube to fix the slow leak.
https://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/bik/d/pontiac-raleigh-road-bike/6801483898.html

This would be a very good commuter you could also take off road if it fits you, (looks like it might) but I can't tell for sure cause he fucked up with the measurement. 27.5" frame size definitely isn't right at all.
https://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/bik/d/mount-clemens-trek-mans-mountain-bike/6803522897.html
>>
>>1292991
And after messing with the filters a bit, I believe this is the best deal on there:
https://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/bik/d/westland-1996-gt-timberline-fs-21-spd/6787176595.html

Leaves you $50 for slicks.
>>
>budget
Up to $1000, less is better, but since I commute by bike 7 days a week I don't mind spending close to my budget on something comfortable that will last
>height
5'8"
Inseam right around 31"
>Requirements
Used primarily as a commuter. Needs mounts for a rear rack and front & rear fenders. Biking on pavement, but some spots are a bit torn up/covered in gravel. Rains a lot in my area. Fairly flat with only minor hills in my area. Something for a more relaxed ride would be good.
>Craigslist
corvallis.craigslist.com

I don't mind older bikes but they tend to be in poor condition and I'm not looking to do any major repairs or upgrades beyond swapping tires/chain/tape/cables.
>>
>>1293028
Let's put an actually functional link here
https://corvallis.craigslist.org/

Also should mention I bike about 5~15mi per day.
>>
>>1293028
https://corvallis.craigslist.org/bik/d/philomath-salsa-vaya-2-52cm/6832181799.html
This one is your size and worth more than $1k if it's actually in like new condition.
>>
>>1293032
are you the same guy i've already recommended like a million used bikes to
>>
I’m a bicycle courier in Sydney. Should I buy super annuation or a lot of injury and life insurance?
>>
I'm 6 foot and 270 lbs, but am still losing weight. I need a durable bike, mostly for pavement but somewhat in the dirt too. $150 is my max price.
>>
>>1293209
If you want, I can make some recs if you post your local craigslist
>>
>>1293189
used to sell insurance. only get term life insurance and invest the difference in premiums into a retirement account.

Try to get one that has a term to take you through the giant-heart-attack era aka mid 50s for males.

Because once you have a condition your insurance goes up. It'll never be cheaper than it is now.

You'll also want to run a quote with a number of different companies. Some will consider your profession a liability, some will consider it a positive.

You'll usually want enough to pay off your house (if you have a wife) and enough to send your kid to private school and 4 years at the flagship state school.
>>
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>>1293377
>bicycle courier

>house
>wife
>kids
>tertiary education
>>
>>1293379
for that matter
>bike courrier
>life insurance
>>
>>1293383
>Courier
>Any sort of health insurance

It's like messengers are some sort of mythical creature and none of you have actually met one in person.
>>
>>1293039
Can anyone else comment on this bike? It looks good to me but I'm not sure about the value of used bikes.
>>
>>1293641

Nice bike at a fair price.
My only hesitation is that mechanical disk brakes can be obnoxiously needy, especially for a new cyclist. Still, BB7's are rock solid calipers. The whole package is a great value, so long as you are willing to have a few learning experiences with brake maintenance.
>>
>>1293383
>>1293388

Medicare covers accident in Australia.
NDIS doesn’t cover disso.

I’m mostly interested in life insurance so the person I like would live well after I go under the truck.
>>
>>1293662
>the person I like
lol what
>>
>>1293663
People don’t marry heavily casualised men m888
>>
I'm planning on either buying a Canyon Endurace or Ultimate.

Just wondering, how much does geometry matter?

From what I've heard, the Endurace is much more comfortable, but how much speed and energy would I actually be wasting going for a more relax geometry?

https://www.canyon.com/en-gb/road/endurace/

https://www.canyon.com/en-gb/road/ultimate/
>>
>>1293718
Your fat ass causes the most drag on a bike, as long as you can get the bars low enough you can be fast on just about anything. Slammed stem on endurance geo frames looks really stupid though.
>>
>>1293721
But are we talking MARGINAL differences, that would only matter for that tiiny extra advantage in a race - or are we talking really noticable numbers? I.e 5-10 kmh average difference?
>>
>>1293873
marginal differences. you'll still be fast as hell on both. Honestly there doesn't look like much of a geo difference anyway.

Looking at that website: Damn they can deliver carbon pretty damn cheap.
>>
>>1293878
>>1293873
>>1293718

I would get the Ultimate though. There isn't a big price difference, not a big geo difference and you can say you are literally riding a World Tour bike.

Plus you can always dial in your fit with a small stack which I assume on the Canyon is custom and expensive.

But goddamn, $1799 for Carbon Fiber, Katusha Red Ultimate CF SL.
>>
>>1293873
It's not like that anon. YOU might actually be faster on an endurance frame. Because fatigue is a major contributor to how efficient you are over long distances.
>>
>>1293970
Sure, but if the relaxed position is slowing me down enough to make me have to output a lot more watts to maintain the same speed as one on a more aero bike then one can question.

I just ask because the difference between my current roadbike and my trailbike is immense - speed wise.
Of course there are even more factors there such as weight and tires, But the point is my roadbike is like a rocket in comparison.

On the road I like to go fast, and I hate feeling like there's something dragging me down - but I can accept MARGINAL losses.

Fatigue can certainly be a major factor in my case though because the roads here are quite course. Lots of vibrations. That's why I'm leaning more towards an Endurace compared to the Aeroad.
>>
https://www.aldi.com.au/en/special-buys/special-buys-wed-13-march/wednesday-detail-wk11/ps/p/mens-or-womens-26-mountain-bike/

should i buy this for a giggle?
>>
>>1294026
What tires you run are a much larger issue for shock absorption than which frame.
The more significant difference between the two are the position you ride in, more relaxed and upright vs an aerodynamic advantage which is more easily sustainable if you're a strong rider with good flexibility.

Both should fit 28mm tires right? That's what matters for comfort. And any larger and yes you will slow down.

It's really just about how much saddle-bar drop you want.
>>
>>1294034
If you have the money to burn - just make sure you double check and tighten all connections before you ride it, and don't take it off road.
>>
>>1294034
>>
>>1294041
>>1294034
>>
>>1294038
The Endurace also comes with this fancy leaf spring seatpost, which from what I've read is actually NOT a gimmick.
>>
>>1294046
It's still an issue of whether you're a strong rider or not. Because if you're putting huge watts through the pedals, and never really coasting, there will be hardly any weight on your ass anyway and butthurt is a nonissue.
>>
>>1294046
I think really you've already decided and because you're even asking the question it's obvious you should go for the grandpa model but some of us real roadies try to be as svelte as possible and you're really just a joke lad
>>
>>1294078
Thankfully I'm not a real roadie
Definitely leaning more towards the comfy ride, but I know it'll be a mental nag if I feel like I'm losing performance noticeably.
Still young & strong enough for anything, just curious about the true real world differences
>>
>>1294113
Endurance geometry just means more stable steering and slightly longer, which means slightly heavier. They're both pretty slammed
>>
Hi, not sure if there's any way to help me out, but I live in Argentina and i'm finally moving to the city. I'm between two bicycles that appeal to me, primarily due to size (I'm 1.9m or 6.2'' i guess in US), everything available is weird chinese stuff, what's mentioned in this thread doesnt exist in Argentina at a reasonable price. So i'm stuck between these two, links are in spanish so i'll probably get no answers and simply jump the gun

http://www.teknial.com.ar/portfolio-item/tek-vintage/

https://zenithbicycles.com/bicicletas/lifestyle/versa/versa-700

They're both the same price, aprox u$420. Went around looking for "hybrid" models and those are what I was presented with.
>>
>>1294318
the first one is more of a euro style cruiser than a hybrid
so it's going to be very slow and comfy
not bad in some situations but shit if you have to deal with hills or longer distances because of the straight upright position, heavy frame, and only 3 gears

the second one is a very cheap bike with a suspension fork, something i'd always recommend against. They're heavy, you waste energy in them, and they break. It's much better to get a cheap bike with a rigid fork like this;

https://zenithbicycles.com/bicicletas/lifestyle/cima-urb/cima-urb
that's better.
But it's also really worth trying to find an 8 (24), or 9 speed bike, not a 7 (21) speed bike. 7 speed parts are very low quality and old technology.

If you can't find/afford a new 8 or 9 speed bicycle with a rigid fork, you should buy something used.
https://deportes.mercadolibre.com.ar/bicicletas-y-ciclismo/bicicletas/adultos/usados/
That seems like your equivalent of craigslist and it has lots of decent, lower priced bicycles on it.
>>
Wow, thanks for the great answer. I'm much more inclined towards the first one in that case, since Buenos Aires is pretty flat, what do you mean by longer distances? It's to move around town really.
Could you happen to point out what you would consider decent from mercadolibre? Seems like most are 21 speeds, the only one i could find below 18.000 pesos with 8 or 9 speeds was this one:

https://articulo.mercadolibre.com.ar/MLA-770085984-vendo-merida-cross-way-muy-buena--_JM

Would it be considered better than the Zenith versa? Or a saner option than the Tek Vintage
>>
>>1294404
>Would it be considered better than the Zenith versa?

yes, that has the 8 speed x3 drivetrain that he was saying is superior (it is, for a number of reasons).

If you think you need a front shock go ahead but you'll probably have more fun on a bike with a fixed fork and wider tires. Tires have gotten better in the last 10 years and suspension is only necessary off road.
>>
>>1294318
if you are a young person consider getting a road bike it'll be more fun and you will get there faster. just put on 28mm tyres with puncture protection.
>>
>Budget
~$1200
>Height
6'
>Bike
Endurance Road
>Craigslist
https://seattle.craigslist.org/d/bicycles/search/bia

I had a ML sized giant defy 3 that i loved but it got stolen and i just wanna ride fast and far again
>>
>>1294622
I wouldn't buy used, although there are some cool options on your craigslist and you could possibly get some high end modern steel (or ti) for the money. A new group and a lighter frame is more appealing for just road riding imo.

https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/d/kirkland-eddy-merckx-majestic/6836131535.html
that's very cool but if the group has big miles on it (likely) i wouldn't.

but IMO just get a ~1000 sora entry level model new.
Trek Domane al 3, Giant Contend 1, Spesh allez sport, all much the same. lots more options too.

The one good frame feature to look for is a threaded bottom bracket, not pressfit. Save yourself a potential creaky headache and make it easy to service at home. All companies are abandoning pressfit now. Other than that i'd buy off which you like the look of more and personally that would be about which colourscheme (not black) looks best or which shop you like the most and think you can get the best fitting help from (free or paying for it). General spec too like brake calipers, tires, wheels, but that's less important imo.

It's also worth ponying up for 105 or looking for a discounted bike with it, but you can also assume that newer frames are actually better. It's not worth going cheaper and getting a no-name square taper crank, although full claris is good if you want to save money.
>>
>>1294779
If you do check out that merckx, or any other classic campy bikes, that stuff is really good quality, and nice to ride, but it's going to be expensive to service/ replace parts, if you can even find them, and by now from a serious rider is probably pretty worn. I would definately buy a lightly used 9/10 speed campy bike though. Especially a high end steel/ti one.

You do sometimes see garage queens though which have barely been ridden. One way to tell is have a look at the hoods. See how the rubber is kinda textured? On a really heavily used bike, it will be worn completely smooth in patches. They're rarely replaced either. It's a good immediate tell.
Also feel for much play in the rear cage meaning the derailer is basically ready to be set out to pasture. And wear on the chainring teeth and if they're the original campy ones.
>>
>>1294785
10sp Campy parts are still in decent supply. They're still producing the Veloce rear derailleur, which works as well as or better than the original Record one ever did. The 10sp Ergo levers can be serviced, and fortunately Seattle has a great Campy Pro Shop, Branford Bike, and they have parts. If the rear shifting doesn't feel positive with a well-defined and loud click, the lever needs service. Branford charges $60 per lever or $100 for both (left lever only very rarely needs a rebuild) plus parts, which is like $20 if it's just the g-spring.
>>
Looking for something to ride around the neighborhood to build cardio and endurance but there's a park with some hills near me I want to tackle too when I can. The paths are mostly gravel. Budget is probably about $700. I can spend more but would rather hold onto the money for something else. I wouldn't mind just buying a new bike either.
https://sanantonio.craigslist.org
Thanks
>>
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Is going down to the local Walmart and getting a Mountain Bike alright or are they absolute dogshit? I can't fucking ride those stupid fucking drop handle bikes because I have a fucking beer gut, pic related body. I fucking hate jogging in my local area and the police have jumped out of their car and stopped me the last few times I went jogging anyway.
>>
>>1295162
Dogshit.
>>
>>1295063
how tall are you
>>
>>1294622
>>1294779
>>1294785
>>1294831
thanks for the info bro
>>
>>1295179
>>1295063
5'7"
>>
>>1295162
>police have jumped out of their car and stopped me the last few times I went jogging anyway.
Wat
>>
>>1295531
When you run in the city you get stopped because Police think you did a crime.
>>
>>1295534
>Land of the free
>>
>>1295534
only if you're a nog. whypeepo can run all they want
>>
>>1295063
https://sanantonio.craigslist.org/bik/d/san-antonio-surly-cross-check/6808570646.html
drop bar gravel bike. relatively high spec, something similar new, is out of your price range. If you want something really good, this is it. Perfect allrounder

https://sanantonio.craigslist.org/bik/d/san-antonio-trek-930/6832568167.html
https://sanantonio.craigslist.org/bik/d/san-antonio-gt-karakoram-medium/6826044639.html
these are very good value. with a little work, they will be superior to any ~$500 new hybrid you might look at. Also perfect allrounders

https://sanantonio.craigslist.org/bik/d/san-antonio-centurion-bike/6817350170.html
this is an interesting option as well, although it's possibly a little big for you. Ask for the top tube to ground measurement, and see if your innerseam is a little longer so you can stand over it. I think it's rather cool, and it would be good for riding on gravel, the tires are perfect, and great for comfy cruising.

https://sanantonio.craigslist.org/bik/d/schertz-trek-400-road-bike/6831693344.html
If you wanted a road bike, this is a good one. It has been completely overhauled so no fuss, just ride. You can ride it on gravel. It's just not ideal. It's nothing fancy, but it is elegant, and solid.


With these options, I think you would be a little crazy to buy a new bike. Also if you get one please come back and post some good pictures of it : )
>>
>>1295719
Take the GT pill, join triple triangle nation.

GT MTBs are great all-rounders.
>>
>>1295162
bikesdirect.com
>>
>>1295883
>>1295719
Alright, thanks. Will check those out
>>
>£100
>just want to ride around at night and drink wine
something comfy would be nice but I don't know how one would make a bike "comfy" outside of a basket and a plush seat
>>
>>1296296
just stumble out of the pub and grab the first dutchie yuy see
>>
>>1296296
wide supple tires
steel frame
upright bars
low gearing
>>
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>>1296300
kek
>>1296301
sounds good
would it be autistic if I got yuge tires and a light aka tried to build a bike that looked like this motorbike
>>
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>>1296307
autism is a virtue
>>
>>1296309
god I wish that were me
>>
>>1296307
no, what you're looking for is a "cruiser" type bicycle. Post your local Craigslist or equivalent and your height.
>>
>>1287759
will thin road bike tires make my mtb faster?
>>
>>1296372
On roads, probably.
>>
>>1296323
ebay, 5'8
>>
>>1296422
what country's ebay though.
>>
>>1296431
uk big guy
not opposed to building my own but im assuming its easier to get one already made with a solid frame so I can tweak it as time goes on right?
>>
>>1296434
dude just get whatever
you're going to get a real piece of shit for 100 quid if you insist on buying new
i dont give a fuck
>>
>>1296438
very bad post
nowhere did I state I was opposed to buying a used bike and ebay is primarily used for second hand stuff so I have no idea how you jumped to that conclusion

also im just looking for a basic bike that wont hurt my nuts when I cycle at night, not a carbon fibre mountain bike pal
>>
>>1296434
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ladies-Cream-retro-vintage-beach-cruiser-bike-Wicker-basket-Pannier-Dutch-6-gear/202619663906?hash=item2f2d12b622:g:dp8AAOSwqHFcg-ki
>>
>>1296440
you didn't even fucking say where you live
and i'm pretty sure gumtree is the place to buy used bikes in the UK
>>
>>1296434
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Schwinn-Stingray-chopper-bike-Rusty-Rat-Hot-rod-Low-rider-beach-cruiser-VW/123672137969?hash=item1ccb6f10f1:g:0s8AAOSw8f9bshjQ

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Used-Huffy-Custom-Built-Lowrider-Cruiser-Chopper-Bmx-Bike-Bicycle-26-Inch-Wheels/233158387068?hash=item364952a57c:g:FLkAAOSw2RJcgRfq

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Schwinn-Stingray-chopper-bike-Rare-Low-rider-beach-cruiser-retro-classic-bike/223440087568?hash=item3406112a10:g:xN0AAOSwS3dbnK7K
>>
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>>1296442
>one piece crank
>>
>>1296447
He wants a cruiser for 100 pounds, I mean he's not gonna try and win hill sprints with it.
>>
>>1296443
I used £ in my original post dumb cunt
kill yourself nerd
>>1296442
>ladies
>>1296445
thanks i'll check em out
>>
>>1296450
do you expect to buy a 100 quid bike and have it shipped to you retard?
>>
>>1296469
c o l l e c t i o n
go get your IQ checked cunt
>>
>>1296474
yeah so what you're just gonna fucking drive to any spot in the uk ?
>>
>>1296481
jesus
>look at ebay links you guys post
>realise the thread that runs between them (type, wheels, frame material etc)
>hop on ebay and type in my postcode
>find a bike that fits those criteria
ez
I live in London so it shouldnt be hard to find something, also your entire beef seems to be that you dont know how ebay works
Would you be happier if I said gumtree and gave you my postcode? stop sperging out you victim of brain damage induced molestation
>>
>>1296487
>don't know anything about bikes
>ask for recomendations
>get recommended bikes that i can't even buy
>learn bike autism immaculately
>pick some random garbage for myself
oh wow what a great process
and here you could have just said you were a lonnigger and gotten actual recs from anons who know wtf they're doing
>>
>>1296490
those of us with an IQ over 100 can get the gist of things pretty easily big guy
when brain steroids come out you'll know how we feel until you die from injecting yourself in the neck you braindead ape
>>
>>1287759
Skipping through reading the thread, I know, I'm an ass, sorry if there was a similar question. I'm a fatasfatass. Really let myself go over the last few years, depression and whatnot. I used to run, but I'm honestly afraid to because I know my weight will destroy my knees right now. With winter thawing, I want to get on a bike for pleasure and exercise.
>Budget: $500
>6'2.5 (longer than average arms)
>~300 lbs, usually around 280-300
>Road cruising, not a lot of major hill climbs in my area
>Maine Craigslist
>>
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>>1297000
https://maine.craigslist.org/bik/d/portsmouth-windsor-fens-touring-bike/6807012354.html
A sport-touring bike. Excellent for you, as it's built to handle loaded bags, so it's actually suited for your weight. Wide gears, and clearance for wider comfy road tires. Might need a bit of work, new bartape, etc, looks quite good condition. I'd turn up with 400 cash, ride, see if you like it, and make the cash offer in person. This is the best if you want to really get something good for cardio. Could be a little small.

https://maine.craigslist.org/bik/d/kittery-jamis-aurora/6836752677.html
this is a similiar touring bike option, although more likely a little small. There is a lot of adjustment though, you could raise the bars very high on this bike. Also worth 400 cash offer in person.

https://maine.craigslist.org/bik/d/portland-specialized-sirrus-sport/6839960364.html
this is quite lucky if you want a flat bar hybrid, it's a reasonably high end one.

https://maine.craigslist.org/bik/d/south-portland-kona-paddy-wagon-single/6815693253.html
decent price on a quality bike if you want something cheap. Single speed though, so better for cruising on the flat than real cardio.

https://maine.craigslist.org/bik/d/schwinn-frontier-mountain-bike/6812337021.html
great value. You really don't need to spend more than this to get something good. Especially if you put some wide slick road tires on it.

https://maine.craigslist.org/bik/d/westbrook-shogun-tangaloy-100-bicycle/6786355539.html
meme option. Ask them to measure from the ground to the top tube, and then measure your leg innerseam and see if you can even stand over it. It's huge. It's quite a low end bike, but not bad, and the position would be comfy and upright. Honestly for $50, it's a great option. Most likely to fuck the wheels under your girth though.
>>
>>1297000
also if you buy something please come back and post some photos of it.
and you could get new for $500 but i think your used options are better. If you look at new bikes, avoid 7 (21) speed, pay for 8/9 speed, as the quality in general will be higher, and at your weight, you need that. Also don't get memed onto an L bike by a salesman unless it feels like it fits you really well, because you're probably much better off with an XL. That's probably the one reason to buy new. The bikes above are all (expect the last one) likely a litttllle small, but will work.
>>
>>1297031
Wow. You're great, thanks so much. I for sure will post whatever I end up with.
>>
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Also posted this to in the bike questions general but how much should I pay for this frame. Craigslist seller wants 125$.
>>
I have two options:

Used B'twin triban 500 that needs new cassette, chain and break cables (£50) - https://www.decathlon.co.uk/triban-500-road-bike-black-id_8331913.html

Calibre Rivelin 2.0 (£299) - https://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/calibre-rivelin-2-0-road-bike-p383864

Could I spend £250 upgrading the b'twin and get a superior bike?
>>
>>1297328
Also

bike size, pref 54cm or 56cm
bike: road or singlespeed
city: london, we use gumtree or ebay here

budget £350
>>
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Any German /n/azis who know if there's an alternative to Ebay Kleinanzeigen here?

I'm scouring my whole surrounding area (in one of the most populous parts of the country) for a functioning road bike with downtube shifters, and I'm ready to give up.

>everyone wants 200€ +
>description and pics are always a year old
>drive 30km to look at the bike, oops the front wheel is missing, but here take this shitty one with mold growing on it
>ad says "perfectly rideable", but when I get there, "yeah, screwed the locking screw on the derailleur all the way in cause I wanted it to be single speed"

I think I spent about 50 Eurobucks just driving to look at bikes that turned out to be trash. Also, I wasn't racist before, but I'll never again look at a bike sold by a Turk, Arab or Pole. It's just a waste of time.
>>
>>1297339
Fellow Kraut here. Be more patient.
>>
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Is this bike decent? I know some modern Schwinn bikes are shit, but this one is 300 dollars at target and I have 200 in giftcards so would only be spending 100 in cash and would be willing to put a bit into it to make it good.

it has disc brakes and an aluminum frame
>>
>>1297412
Its probably junk and you can get a used bike on craigslist for $100 that is older and used but likely of much higher quality. Even thinking about a walmart schwinn with that strange lacing pattern makes me shudder. maybe see if you can find a used bike and if target happens to sell any parts or accessories you might want.
>>
>>1297412
>it has disc brakes and an aluminum frame

The lowest level disc brakes that aren't absolute trash (Shimano Acera) cost $50 per wheel on ebay.
The lowest level of aluminum frame that isn't absolute trash costs $100.
A wheelset (without tires and cassette) costs $100 and even that will rust to shit in the rain.
And then we're still missing tires, chain, cassette, chainwheels, shifters, derailleurs, cables, saddle, stem, handlebars, ...

There's just no possible way for a $300 new bike to not be absolute shit.
>>
>>1297449
>cassette
Looks like that things got a freewheel judging by the big black cog
>>
>>1297453
I didn't pay that much attention to that BBC.
>>
>>1297449
Dont listen to this tool, schwinn bikes are ok if adjusted properly, unless you are using it to race.
>>
>>1297533
It's just for riding around town/to work so that I don't need my car as much. I'll most likely run it to a shop as soon as I buy it.. the price is just hard to pass on
>>
>>1297412
>>1297412
There's really nothing you can do significantly to make it better. Just if you are interested ride it and use it. there is nothing wrong with the frame or whatever it's just a standard flat bar hybrid.
>>
What differences will bikes have from today in 5 years?
>>
>>1297412
It might be ok. Do not buy it in hopes of improving it.

Try a cheap Marin bike (unless I got the brand wrong)
>>
>>1297412
this bike is complete junk because of the wheel design. as soon as you break one spoke the whole wheel will be garbage. even at target, you can do better.
>>
>>1297339
facebook buy/sell groups, city flea markets, and police actions, mein neger
>>
>>1293028
I can get you on an Escape City Disc with racks, fenders, and hydraulic disc brakes for $580 if you can get up to Portland next week.
>>
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>>1297344
>>1297616
Oh god oh fuck I just paid way too much money for this, but...
>smallest chainring I ever saw on a vintage bike, almost a modern compact
>complete Dura Ace groupset
>all original parts
>fully serviced, checked, trued, greased before sale
>under 10kg
>that fucking color
A year from now, I won't remember the money I spent, right guys?
>>
>>1297412
>>1297612
if you must buy a Target bike, this schwinn elite herald is probably the least bad. you should expect to pay 50-85 bucks for a bike shop to set up the shifting and braking correctly.
also be aware it's a OSFA bike, so if you're taller than 5'8" or shorter than 5'4", it won't fit very well.
>>
>>1297644
Das Fahrräd finde ich ganz gut. Die Gruppe ist auch nicht schlecht. Passt dir die Große? In meiner Stadt würde so eins 300 bis 400 USD kosten.
>>
>>1297652
Größe passt. Und es hat 399€ gekostet.
>>
>>1297644
dude you just scored a team miyata which is the best of the best. if I saw one in good shape I'd drop $1k on those no problemo. I have a pro miyata, one step below the the team, and it's a godly ride. when the suntour sprint components on it wear out I mite put super record 12 on it
>>
>>1297725
I just checked around a bit now that I'm sober again and the same exact model and year fetches over 1k€ in worse condition, it's fucking sold in auctions in Britain with "collection" in their name. All I wanted was a weekend fun bike in good condition and now I've accidentally entered the collectible bike market?

Best drunk buy ever.
>>
>>1297820
*slow clap* trete dem adfc bei
>>
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>>1297824
Superliminal messaging works!
>>
>>1297328
Also what would be the best best upgrades that I could make to the triban 500 for £300 budget taking into note that I need a new chain, cassette and brake cables
>>
>>1297941
gp5000 tyres
>>
>>1297941
Upgrades in descending order of importance IMO:
>check correct assembly of all parts
>floor pump with gauge
>chain lube
>proper bike fitting
>proper saddle fitting
>better tires
>better brake pads

That's 90% of your upgrade potential taken care of. A properly assembled and fitted bike with the correct tire pressure for your use case and good tires and pads is leagues above what you'll get initially.

Then you can invest in better, handbuilt wheels. But that's already an expense that puts you in a higher price tier that'll get you an all-around better bike in the first place, so I never replace wheels on a bike I just bought.
>>
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i want to buy a beater bike.
is this any good? how much i should offer. the seller wants like $75usd. seller says it has the original paint.

more pics
www facebook com/marketplace/item/405507540251500/
>>
>>1297959
I'd be surprised if that rear brake works properly with that cabling. But if it does and nothing shakes, creaks or grinds, that's worth $75 IMO.

You probably won't get up hills very well with it. Or down.
>>
>>1297959
it's a very low quality old piece of shit
cottered cranks really suck

but hey, anything that rides is worth $50 i guess
>>
>>1297956
Awesome. Thanks. I think I'll get the gp5000 tyres and Swiss stop brake pads. I'm assuming that all chains are similar and no need to go expensive for them? The triban 500 has a Microshift 11 x 34 cassette. Will I be OK getting any cassette as long as its 11 x 34?
>>
>>1297965
Chains need to fit the number of gears on your cassette. I think 6/7/8 gears are equal in width and compatible.
Other than that, more expensive chains are less prone to rust and may be a few grams lighter. Not something to worry about in your price range. Budget in a chainpin removal tool, chain whip and cassette removal tool if you're doing it yourself.
>>
>>1297965
get a kmc chain, they're easier to connect and you can remove them
>>
>>1297969
Thankfully I have all those tools
>>
Can you fit bells and lights on oval "aero" bars?
>>
>>1297991
adjustabell is the only bell afaik. for lights, anything with a gummy strap will fit fine.
>>
>>1297991
Some bells use a deformable plastic clamp that'll fit any shape within reasonable margins.

As for lights, I have the BM Ixon Pure which fits basically anything. I've had it mounted on a fork stay, handlebars from 22 to 35mm and the edge of my basket.
>>
>>1297991
No, because you'll be laughed at
>>
>>1298040
who cares
>>
>>1287759
Is this peugeot worth 160€?
>>
>>1298070
Fuck no
>>
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>>1298071
Thanks fren.
>>
>>1298071
How bout this triumph for 85€?
>>
>>1298070
Suicide brake levers, missing hood covers, a chainwheel that looks like a tin can lid and stem shifters are each sure signs for a shit bike.
This bike has all of them.
>>
>>1298074
This one doesn't look half bad, good condition but pretty bottom tier components
Offer 50
>>
>>1298074
Suicide brake levers AND suicide stem.
If you buy this bike, you WILL die.
>>
>>1298080
Omg how do you guys even see that all. I'm hopeless. They all look awesome to me
This bike goes for 140€ it's bianchi
>>
>>1298080
whats a suicide stem?
>>
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>>1298087
Prolly one that breaks easy
>>
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>>1298087
This stem shape on old bicycles.
They've been known to break because they were badly designed, and when that happens while you're going fast, it can kill you.
>>
>>1298089
Thanks for your explanation.
Next round 130€
>>
>>1298085
That looks very decent and rideable. Bianchi is generally a good brand. It also has more modern components, which makes fixing and upgrading a lot easier and cheaper.
Where I live, when it's in good condition, that'd be worth the money.
>>
>>1298091
I found this one for 250€ it's my maximum I want to spend. It's 56 while I'd need a 52 and has a Shimano mirage. Never heard of VETO
>>
>>1298091
Definitely take a look at this one. 110-120€ seems fair if it's in good condition.
>>
>>1298094
The brakes however are 1st Gen VBrakes
>>
>>1298095
>It's 56 while I'd need a 52

Definite no. But
>>
>>1298099
you could look at it to see if they measured right.
>>
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>>1298096
I can't get a hold of the seller. :(
>>
>>1298098
Which are easy and cheap as fuck to maintain.
But it has an ahead headset, modern double clamp stem, 26" wheels, a Shimano-compatible cassette...

90's is when standardization set in across manufacturers, if you buy a road bike from the 70's or 80's, you end up googling mm values along with the parts you need much too often.
>>
>>1297962
my city is almost flat, the only down/up hill are bridges
>>1297963
thanks. good to know.

im not in a rush to buy, ill look more cheap bikes.
thanks for the help, anonsitos.
>>
>>1298212
The fathom 1 has a 1x drivetrain and an upgraded fork. I'd say it's worth it for the 1x setup. Almost everyone who buys a 2x or 3x bike eventually wants to change it to a 1x

I'll also say that unless you have a screaming deal on the 2018 model, you should get the 2019 fathom. It comes with the 1x drivetrain in both the base and upgraded model.

And unless you know you prefer XC geometry, you should look at the standard 27.5 fathom. most people will want the 27.5 fathom because it has a slacker geometry which is more appropriate for technical trail riding.
>>
£50 for Mavic Aksium wheelset, worth it?
>>
>>1298222
Thank you desu. I have another question are they made in China?
>>
>>1298244
nope. made in tiawan.
>>
>>1298244
>>1298245
but don't let that affect your decision. most bikes between $600 and $3000 dollars are (cheaper ones are predominantly made in china). side note, giant is a taiwanese company.
>>
>>1298231
if the only other option is not riding. they're shit wheels.
>>
>>1298253
Was curious at maybe upgrading wheels on the cheap. Is there a hierarchy/tier of wheels and brands?
>>
>>1298255
I'm also only interested in clincher and rim brake wheels
>>
>>1298255
If you're on a tight budget I'd go with Shimano RS370s, Campagnolo Calima C17s, or handbuilts using SunRingle CR18 or Kinlin XC-279 rims with Shimano 105 hubs. Although I wouldn't call any of those upgrades unless you're upgrading from ragged out wheels.

As for tiers
>god
Lightweight (any model ever), Campag Ghibli
>great
Campag Bora
>good
Campag/Fulcrum, Enve (until Mavic ruins them), Easton, HED, ZIPP, Shimano, handbuilts using the above or H+Son, Pacenti, Boyd, Reynolds, Ryde, Araya, DT Swiss, Kinlin, etc
>shit
Mavic, Alex
>>
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>>1298091
this looks good.
notice that most of your other bikes have stem shifters, suicide levers, no derailer hanger on the frame, and some even have a cottered crank.

this one is a proper entry level road bike.
>>
>>1298275
i had some handbuilt pacentis that split around the spoke holes and pacenti said it was normal and campagnolo wheels meme spoke pattern is just stupid for truing and like 3 shops even just said no when my scirroco wheels met a pothole and the one that did it still couldn't do it 100%

did you have a negative experience with mavic? Because bad things happen with wheels
>>
>>1298275
Can you use campagnolo wheels with SRAM and shimano parts?
>>
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>>1298287
not him but yes campagnolo makes wheels with shimano/sram freehubs, as well as campagnolo freehubs. Fulcrum is also made by campagnolo with very similiar designs so it's basically for sram and shimano plebians who want the campagnolo excellence of ride quality but have an appropriate level of shame over their uncultured gruppo choices.
>>
>>1298255
wheel systems and proprietary wheelsets are garbage.
get some traditional 3x wheels handbuilt or through qbp.
DT or Mavic rims on shimano ultegra hubs will last a long ass time and run perfectly at a reasonable weight.
>>
>>1298278
Could you please post the companion to this image that identifies features of a good quality bike? I accidentally my copy
>>
>>1298304
btw i dashed these off and they're only generalizations
>>
>>1298278
>>1298308
the really obvious tells for a very low quality bike are;
>cottered crank or one piece crank
>stamped steel dropouts with a bolt on claw derailer hanger
>stem shifters
>suicide brake levers
>>
>>1298280
The G3 pattern is just triplet lacing, a.k.a. 2:1 lacing. Any experienced wheelbuilder should be able to handle that. Lots of wheels use similar lacing, they just don't have the same neato look. It's a good pleb filter for mechanics tho. Shitty mechanics get scared off by the brand name.

Mavic hubs are shit designs, have been forever. Lots of drag, seal problems, etc. Aside from that, the Open Pro rims have a habit of groaning and creaking because the weld is off. I don't know if the new USTs do it, but I wouldn't be surprised. The main reason why every wheelbuilder under the sun used to rec Open Pros was because they're easy to work with, but there are so many better choices out there now. Anyway, yeah, I've had those problems with Mavic.

I remember the problems with the first gen of Pacenti SL23s, but I thought that Pacenti were cool about warrantying them. Maybe it's because of the new ownership? Oh well, fuck them, into shit tier they go.
>>
>>1298317
my point really was not that pacenti are shit but that wheels have issues

my experience with my a719 rims is i have abused the shit out of them and they're fantastic and yeah pacenti did send me a new model for the rim, and supposedly fixed the flaw, but they didn't accept spokes & labour cost for rebuilding the wheel (incidental warranty damage) which is the law in my country.
>>
My coworker is offering to sell me a 2017 Nukeproof Mega 275 Comp for $1600 USD.

Is this a good deal?
>>
>>1298378
That's 50% of its new price.
You decide.
>>
>>1289098
>>1289099
If I just want to zip around town quick, go to work and back, or a ride on the back roads should i get a hybrid like this?
>>
>>1299011
hybrids like this Escape 2 Disc are gonna be your best option for shorter rides up to 10-12 miles or so. much farther than that and you will want the multiple hand positions offered by drop bar bikes such as the Toughroad GX.
>>
is there a hongfu/dengfu equivalent for alu frames?
>>
bought a Trek 8.5DS years and years ago, it's got me through most of high school, all of college, and a couple of years after that.
Everything from the shifting to the brakes to the pedal bearing to the chain to the suspension is fucked:
>shifter can't be adjusted in a way that makes it work smoothly, get skips under load anyway
>chain is squeaky af
>pedal bearing has been cracked for more than 2 years now
>suspension hasn't worked correctly for longer than the pedal bearing
>bent the brake spacer back into place a week ago
just to make sure, is there some recommended position to set the barrel adjuster on your shifter before making adjustments?
if not, since I'd have to essentially rebuild the whole bike at this point besides the seat and tires, is there an equivalent hybrid bike you'd recommend? I've obviously liked the trek so far. I grew up on Trek's kid-sized mountain bikes, and had positive experiences with them. I have only had negative experiences with Schwinn, and have had a Bianchi that was far more trouble than it was worth. Budget is below 2000 USD but I want to keep the bike more than 6 years without trouble. Mostly ride on shit roads, shit sidewalks, a bit of gravel, and a moderate amount of grass
>>
>>1299470
forgot to mention, legs are 30-31" when standing
>>
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I've got a KHS F20 A7 folding bike with an XT/XTR brakes/drivetrain, but the rims are total shite.

Haven't found minivelo rims that meet me need; so in the name of excess, should I go with carbon rims ($250) or get a disc-brake folding bike ($560) and transplant the XTR stuff + TRP HY/RD calipers?
>>
>>1299470
I recommend a marin muirwoods, because unlike the competition, it has a chromoly steel frame. I test road quite a few hybrids recently for reasons, and found that it had a much more comfortable ride that i preferred, than the others. I also think it looks very good in person.

Aside from that, get an 8/9/10 speed bike, not a 7 (21) - too cheap- and try to get a rigid fork, because as you know, that's something which breaks.
>>
>>1299576
I have some NOS 20" sun rims I can build up into a baby wheelset for you. what kind of hubs would you want with that?
>>
>>1299585
all good advice. if you're under 6' tall, the kona dew plus provides a similar setup but with better proportions due to the smaller wheels.

marin website:
>This is the classic bike shop employee
commuter bike
>MSRP • $769.99
Whoever wrote this is a classic overpaid bay area retard.
Literally the only reason we ride steel mtbs with slicks is because they're cheap. Bike mechanic wages top out at $13 an hour in my city. My commuter cost me $30. What the fuck is Marin smoking
>>
>>1299585
>>1299624
Thanks for the advice
Regarding the fork, what should I expect out of a solid fork? I'd prefer not to get nut tapped whenever I fail to notice the latest pothole. Is there a reason not to seek out a telescopic fork?
>>
>>1299585
>>1299627
shit I'm tired
the DS8.5 suspension fork still functions, but its handle mounted damper adjuster is the point of failure
>>
I'm looking to buy a decent steel-framed road bike, probably spending under $1500 USD. I've been keeping my eye open for Ritchey Road Logics and All-City Mr. Pinks. I'm wondering if there are other models along those lines I should be on the lookout for.

Alternatively, if I find an older bike with a decent frame, like a Bridgestone, would it be worth it buying upgrading the group-set?
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budget: 450 USD
height: 6'2"
reqs: Something relatively simple. Will be riding ~10mi each way to/from work, light trails, and grocery getting.
I'm torn between these two. The Giant Escape is 380 whereas the Co-Op is 500 and a bit above what I want to spend but seems solid.
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>>1299870
hibrids are essentially flat bar gravel bikes. So pay no attention to people saying they are bad. Giant bikes are reliable, and you will want to spend on rack and panniers I guess.
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>>1299838
>>1292186
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>>1299870
The coop has disc brakes, and they actually specced decent Tektros instead of the usual shitbrakes on most cheap disc brake bikes, so it'll be better in wet/cold than the Giant, and you'll have a nice upgrade path to hydros if you decide you want to go there. I bet that you could toss a suspension fork on there, too. They clearly cut corners on the wheels, though.
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>>1299623
Thank, but I've got a local wheel builder, and I'm looking to go absurd, or disc brakes.
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>>1299920
I did a ton of shopping around yesterday and ended up getting the giant. The co-op was nice but the giant was overall more comfortable to ride. I guess I could've gotten the co-op and replaced the seat lol
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>>1300341
sweet man I hope you have fun with it
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So called cross bike. Up front altus, in the back alivio, alu frame, some RST Nova fork, alivio shifters. Double wall( side wall?) rims.
~$500
Last time i purchased a bike was 15 years ago, is this a decent price or a ripoff?
Thank you
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>>1300845
smells like a ripoff desu. you just described a slow clunky comfort bike. for $500 you can get a new bike with hydraulic disc brakes and cassette hub in the back.
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>>1300889
Well shit. Although it does have a casette hub. Anyway what should i even look for?
I'm a 58 manlet, need something for woods and suburbs, no racing/mountain climbing. I was thinking of something in $500-600 range, my max is 800 i guess but i don't know if need to spend that much. Fuck there's a billion bikes out there.
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new thread >>1301653
new thread >>1301653
new thread >>1301653
new thread >>1301653
new thread >>1301653



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