[a / b / c / d / e / f / g / gif / h / hr / k / m / o / p / r / s / t / u / v / vg / vr / w / wg] [i / ic] [r9k / s4s / vip / qa] [cm / hm / lgbt / y] [3 / aco / adv / an / asp / bant / biz / cgl / ck / co / diy / fa / fit / gd / hc / his / int / jp / lit / mlp / mu / n / news / out / po / pol / qst / sci / soc / sp / tg / toy / trv / tv / vp / wsg / wsr / x] [Settings] [Search] [Home]
Board
Settings Home
/n/ - Transportation


Name
Options
Comment
Verification
4chan Pass users can bypass this verification. [Learn More] [Login]
File
  • Please read the Rules and FAQ before posting.
  • There are 72 posters in this thread.

05/04/17New trial board added: /bant/ - International/Random
10/04/16New board for 4chan Pass users: /vip/ - Very Important Posts
06/20/16New 4chan Banner Contest with a chance to win a 4chan Pass! See the contest page for details.
[Hide] [Show All]


All work safe boards are now on the 4channel.org domain. Make sure to update your script blockers and whitelist the new domain.

There's now a setting option under Navigation to display the full list of boards on 4channel.org

The 4chan Vtuber Competition is over. Click here to see the winning entry!




File: bqg8.png (1.34 MB, 1500x1038)
1.34 MB
1.34 MB PNG
/bqg/ - Bike Questions General

Last thread: >>1268648

Resources:
https://sheldonbrown.com/
https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help

If you want help picking out a bike to purchase, don't post here. Ask in >>>/n/bbg
>>
File: IMG_7503.jpg (1.57 MB, 4032x3024)
1.57 MB
1.57 MB JPG
>>1273372
Is it safe to have this much of a gap between the top of my stem and steerer tube?
>>
>>1273413
Thomson state no more than 3mm

you just had to get a chris kang didnt u?

time to go low stack headset
>>
File: IMG_7504.jpg (1.48 MB, 1936x2592)
1.48 MB
1.48 MB JPG
>>1273415
Chris Kang is life anon. I'm going to either get a low stack stem or machine pic related. I had a low stack headset before and didn't think that the Kang would raise it that much.
>>
>>1273413
No, the clamp bolt needs to be clamping steerer tube.
>>
File: IMG_20190110_122742819.jpg (1.56 MB, 2340x4160)
1.56 MB
1.56 MB JPG
Posted in the last thread but I'll ask here as well, since I was surprised by the response. Should I continue to build up this bike, or is the rust damage too much to make it worth while?
>>
File: IMG_20190110_122735637.jpg (1.19 MB, 2340x4160)
1.19 MB
1.19 MB JPG
>>1273448
>>
File: things-pros-do-1-16.jpg (56 KB, 880x586)
56 KB
56 KB JPG
>>1273420
Godspeed Anon

Low stack is p bling
>>
>>1273448
Rust damage on a frame is mostly just aesthetics, the bike will be fine to ride. Definitely continue to build it, and if the frame has some special significance to you restore it.
>>
First time visiting the board, so I don't even know if I'm asking on the right place, but I'm thinking on buying a BMX soon. I don't have enough money to buy both a BMX and a normal bike, so I was planning on using the BMX for transportation (8~12 minute rides).

How retarded would it be to do so?
>>
>>1273448
I mean, that rust damage doesn't look that bad. I've seen bikes still being rode in worse condition. Just understand that rust on steel = bike cancer.
>>
File: gravity-bigwake.jpg (417 KB, 2100x1342)
417 KB
417 KB JPG
>>1273476
For such a short ride, you shouldn't have a problem doing it on BMX. That 10 minute ride would be 5 minutes or less on a regular bike though. I don't think it's a problem, one of the local Jimmy John delivery boys uses a BMX around here. BMX can be fun if you're in the city and like to curb hop shit and stuff.

You could however take the ultimate compromise and sacrifice both speed and comfort with an adult sized big wheel BMX, which I'm 100% is going to be my next bike
>>
>>1273476
I ride road and BMX. Getting a BMX in your case is actually the better choice. BMX bikes are nearly indestructible and are fine for the distance you are riding. I prefer my BMX bike riding around my campus and town (inner city college).
>>
>>1273472
>>1273485
I see, I didn't think it was that bad but the reaction from the last thread had me concerned. I'll continue to build it up then, thanks anons.
>>
>>1273504
Bad reactions are pretty common on 4chan, don't take them too seriously. Especially when combined with cyclists, who can be big assholes about certain things.
>>
>>1273449
i want to know if that is a hole like it looks like
>>
>>1273519
No, it's still one solid piece, no hole.
>>
Serious inquiry here...

I like to do a significant amount of road commuting, I prefer hardtail mountain bikes because forks absorb the road, but I don't like my current setup of rims & tires.

I want a nice set of 26" aluminum rims & tires that are both good for trails & the road, but it's gotta be puncture resistant.

Also, don't want to spend more than $100 per wheel & prefer much less.

Suggestions?
>>
>>1273519
>>1273524
Actually I was mistaken, that is a hole, however it isn't from the rust, it's on each side of the fork, I have no idea why they're there though. They're some holes on the inside of the drop outs as well..
>>
>>1273551
Just get some nice tires. You can't really 'upgrade' your wheels on the cheap.
Either something like Continental Race King, if you want it to be better on trails, or Marathon Supremes or Paselas if you want it better on road.

If you go for a tire that really specialises in puncture protection then you'll get a stiff uncomfortable riding tire. If you go for a tire really specialising in trail grip with tread, then it won't be great on roads. If you get a road tire it won't have amazing grip on trails.

All ~2" tires can ride almost anywhere though and most expensive tires do have quite good puncture protection already.
Just spend $$ on tires.
>>
>>1273557
For draining water i guess. They're kinda common. You should still follow my advice on touching it up if you want to be diligent, and you can also get rust inhibitor spray cans to spray in the tubes that staves it off too, like lps-3.

But yeah you can also ignore it and it'll still be fine.
>>
>>1273566
Oh that makes sense, I suppose that's why the rust is all around that area. I intend to touch it up, I really like the frame a lot and want it to last. Thanks anon.
>>
>>1273557
The holes are there to release gases during welding.

Also use some tinfoil and vinegar to rub off rust then cover with clearcoat nail polish. Guarantee you’ll see nice shiny metal underneath
>>
File: v8s2r0b.jpg (1.76 MB, 3264x2448)
1.76 MB
1.76 MB JPG
So I have a decent older frame with a poopy old one piece crank in it. What measurements do I need to find a multi piece adapter for my bottom bracket and the new crankset to work?
Pic unrelated
>>
>>1273640
no dude. you're a retard and you bought a shit bike and we told you not to and you didn't listen
>>
>>1273654
if it works its fine, no need to spend money until you have to
>>
>>1273504
>>1273517

If you want to be superi would take a picture in sunlight and post it to bikeforums classic and vintage. It kinda looks like there is rust between the form blade and the fork dropout, wouldn't want that popping off but if you aren't 300lb the other fork blade would probably support your weight will enough anyways I bet. Steel is real...

Otoh a new fork would be cheap and mismatch fork/frame paint is a hot look atmo
>>
>>1273664
>Otoh a new fork would be cheap and mismatch fork/frame paint is a hot look atmo
please stop mentioning irrelevant shit and recommending drastic measures
too often too much information
>>
File: EwkOp.png (50 KB, 1009x718)
50 KB
50 KB PNG
>>1273551
>Also, don't want to spend more than $100 per wheel & prefer much less.
>Suggestions?

I agree with this Anon >>1273564 - but if you are willing to take a risk on some fuckhuge heavy wheels and hunt for deals, you can pull off Sun Rhynolite or Sun Rhynolite XL wheelset for $100, 26x2.0" Schwalbe Marathon Supremes ($100 if lucky), Velocity Veloplugs or rim tape, and tubes for about $250.

There are risks. My wheelset came perfectly true and strong as fuck (from Niagra cycle which is bankrupt now), but one of the Supremes was not perfectly round (ordered from bikediscount.de I think). Someone said flawed Schwalbes are unloaded randomly from Europe on international buyers and I believe it. But it rode fine, at the low psi I like didn't notice at all.

This is just one example. Sun Rhynolite is a bikeforums boomer favorite because they don't give a shit about weight, usually 36h and I've seen them in commuters, touring, and MTB. Super wide rim makes the tire profile really comfy (more round less lightbulb shape). My wheelset was rim and disc brake compatible.

But it doesn't have to be those, you just need to do your research. There are Craiglist 26ers that have been ridden 3 times in two decades. Look for one that is $50-$75 and pristine, then buy the right kind of grease and tools to repack the hubs... Then slap Supremes on there and you're golden

There's a lot to learn. Pic related. Find a bike coop if you aren't willing to Google


https://blueskycycling.com/products/shimano-deore-wheels-w-sun-rhyno-lite-rims?variant=5244709568544

1.6"
https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/schwalbe-marathon-supreme-hd-onestar-27.5x1.60-680148

2.0"
https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/schwalbe-marathon-supreme-hd-onestar-26-50-559-495453

You're looking at closer to $300 at current prices, but eBay is your friend. 2.0 vs 1.6 is a pretty big difference in comfort as well. First Anon who said 2.0" knows what they're talking about
>>
>>1273667
Warning I just linked you to the wrong size (27.5" x 1.6) do not order those

If you give zero fucks about ride quality and marathon plus will never get flats. I see those for $25 each regularly. They will roll slow and heavy
>>
File: IMG_7518.jpg (104 KB, 610x517)
104 KB
104 KB JPG
>>1273640
Threading type, bracket width, and axle length.
>>
i don't know how to ride a bike
how do i ride a bike
>>
>>1273718
just b urself
>>
>>1273551
You can get tires for either trails or the road. They will not do both. Any tire that claims to be "all around" is garbage.
For commuting, just get some marathon greenguards in 26x2. This is the best mtb commuter tire for 99% of people.
>>
>>1273666
>atmoposting on n
kys yourself please
>>
what's a good stationary bike/bike trainer on a budget?
or should I ask /fit/?
>>
>>1273809
Something on sale with lots of adjustability.

If you're buying a trainer because of winter, buy a trainer. Normal trainers will tend to kill tires, and if you're serious about riding a trainer for seasons at a time, but one that substitutes for the rear wheel.

If you want something to get some exercise while catching up on game of thrones buy a spin bike with a big flywheel, preferably magnetic resistance, and a heart rate monitor. It's easier to watch TV in a more upright position, and the fixed drivetrain will keep you from getting too lazy and not pedaling.

If you want to catch up on vidya backlog, get a recumbent stationary bike. It gets very awkward on an upright bike.
>>
>>1273809
Depends on what you mean by budget. You can get a Kurt Kinetic Road Machine new for around $250. If you get bored you can upgrade it with an InRide to give it smart trainer capability, which lets you connect it with your computer or phone or whatever to let it send power data to some app or another, which sends wattage data to Zwift or TrainerRoad or whatever so that you can be slightly less bored

For smart trainers, you can get a basic one for around $350-$500. Those don't allow for interactive resistance control, though, which is a neato feature. Those kinds of trainers are $550 and up for wheel-on, over $700 for direct drive. Kurt, Wahoo, Tacx, CyclOps, and Elite are all good brands. The next gen is hopefully going to have some kind of motion control that allows for steering inside of Zwift or whatever.

At the end of the day they all suck ass compared to actually riding but are a nice alternative when the weather is dogshit or wagie life doesn't allow for much day riding. God I hate it.
>>
>>1273738

race me you bitch

ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO ATMO
>>
Does anyone else hate friction shifting?

I don't understand why people complain about index shifting. If the drivetrain isn't behaving, it just needs a couple to turns of the barrel adjuster, then flawless shifting.

With friction, about 1/10 shifts, I think I shifted right, then realize it's clicking and needs trimming, that's a way higher bad shift rate than index and trimming all the time is annoying, more than twisting a barrel adjuster once a season or so.
>>
Looking to get new cranks for a bike I'm building, would like 46/30 or something close to that, what's my cheapest option that's not total shit? I can't seem to find any for under $150, is that just what I should expect to pay?
>>
>>1273842
Sounds like something that would probably get better with experience, I felt the same way about spl-sl so I stopped using them
>>1273845
Can you get the fsa tempo adventure anywhere?
>>
>>1273842

friction rules if you build up weird bikes on a monthly basis, which is a hobby in its own right. With friction you can basically shift any shifter (until recently with those 12 speed cassettes where you need to get creative). So if you want to go from 8 speed to 10 speed, you just change the cassette, check the limit screws, it it just works.

To be completely candid, I have used friction for the past ten years out of total laziness and ineptitude. I hate routing cables, I hate taping bars, but I love fucking with bikes. So friction shifted downtube is a kind of freedom for me.

Friction shifting can totally suck and on my 9 speed bikes once in a while I'll be putting power down and have the bike lurch under me because I was between gears and it auto-shifted on me. Slightly dangerous. My next geared bike will probably be indexed downtube or bar end, I am getting tired of it, but I still dislike cable routing and handlebar fuckery when I am changing bars every few months
>>
>>1273842
>With friction, about 1/10 shifts, I think I shifted right, then realize it's clicking
you need more practice. When I started biking the only option for the mainstream consumer was friction shift. When you use it long enough, you can flick that shit across 3-5 gears and it'll be exactly where you want. It's faster than clicking through all the indexing but requires finesse and finesse comes with time.
>>
>>1273845
Depends on what you mean by shit... i just put this $40 chinese crank+BB on a bike and it is working fine... could cheaply put together a 46/30 crank with an MTB triple... $20 on aliexpress for the crank... I'd estimate another $20 for cheap ebay rings and another $20 for a bottom bracket
>>
>>1273854
>I'll be putting power down and have the bike lurch under me because I was between gears and it auto-shifted on me
I remember that shit so badly I even developed a reflex to unpower during drivetrain malfunction that I still carry to this day, which is almost nonexistant these days thanks to indexing but it's saved me from eating shit due to chain skip a handful of times.

Indexing is nice but I wouldn't complain about friction shift because I grew up on it and it's quite intuitive if you're a natural at it
>>
>>1273476
Not optimal, but fine for such short rides
>>1273718
pedal really fast
>>1273842
I love friction shifting
>>1273845
SRAM Rival
Maybe check out FSA's cheaper offerings too
>>
>>1273854
>Friction shifting can totally suck and on my 9 speed bikes once in a while I'll be putting power down and have the bike lurch under me because I was between gears and it auto-shifted on me.
It's on 9 speed, so maybe that's where the problems stem from.
>>
>>1273842
I do not hate friction shifting but I do not love it. If I had to race with it knowing indexed shifting was available I would hate it probably.
>>
File: 7-2-ταινια.jpg (175 KB, 1216x720)
175 KB
175 KB JPG
The plastic pedals on my bike have cracked and my feet slip off. I want to replace them. Ideally I'm looking for something that's flat, metal, won't rust, silver/stainless steel. I am looking at straps/toe cages also. The MKS Sylvan range looks kind of good. I'm in the UK so I probably need pedal reflectors also. Are there any good ones that fit this style of pedal? My crank has some rust where the pedal connects to the crank. Would it be a mistake to fit MKS Sylvans to this crank? I will just buy cheap pedals until I replace the crank if the rust is just going to spread.
>>
>>1273810
very useful, thanks
>>1273812
this too
>>
>>1273868
hit it with some rust inhibitor and wipe it down. make sure you grease the threads on the pedal when you install it. the rust won't spread. mks sylvans look cool, but they chew up sneakers/trainers and create hotspots on the foot, which are areas of pressure/pain from too much force being put through too little tissue. if you want something from mks, look into the gr10. its wide and works with toe clips. also consider a pinned platform pedal. wellgo makes decent ones that come with reflectors. these will take over-the-foot straps like holdfast, and work better with a variety of shoes.
>>
File: 20190113_125028.jpg (2.55 MB, 2560x1440)
2.55 MB
2.55 MB JPG
Whats the best way to clean these brake covers?
>>
>>1273958
Buy new ones. Alternatively, something that's lightly abrasive like magic erasers or those brown dish scrubbers.
>>
>>1273857
I'm a little hesitant to get chinese shit but I'll keep that in mind.

>>1273846
>>1273861
This is much more within my price range, thank you for pointing them out to me.
>>
>>1273666
>please stop mentioning irrelevant shit and recommending drastic measures

1. Fork is rusted, owner rightly cautious
2. Spend ~$40 on eBay
3. Spend 10 minutes replacing fork

"WHOA WHOA WHOA, HOLD UP! That is INSANELY DRASTIC, please,4chan... STOP!!!"
>>
>>1273846
>>1273861
>>1273962
Follow up question about the FSA tempo, I've never messed with my bikes drivetrains before so I've got a lot of reading to do before I dig in, but it says available for 9 speed systems, will it work with a 10 speed?
>>
>>1273967
Your front shifting might be a little slow, but yeah, it will work.
>>
>>1273967
FSA Vero is 10-/11-speed, 48/32.
>>
How fun is Fatbiking in the winter?
I really got into cycling a few years ago and it's been an obsession.
Got proper road & mountain bikes, but haven't dared to go during the long Scandinavian winters.
Been doing cross-country skiing to stay fit and have something to do, and sometimes I see people rolling past on their Fatbikes and I feel jelly. They get to ride bikes.

But how does it compare to riding during the summer? Can you play and have fun or do you need to restrict yourself to not wipe out?
>>
File: NQIf.gif (2.49 MB, 400x400)
2.49 MB
2.49 MB GIF
im trying to put a 26" suspension fork on my 700c bike, and the bridge on the fork just BARELY rubs the top of the 700x35c tire. if i downsize to like a 33c would the tire be a little shorter too? i might be better off just grinding the bridge a little idk.
>>
>>1274429
>would the tire be a little shorter too?
yes, generally, but very little and that also depends on other factors like cross sectional profile of the manufactured tire and rim width. Some companies make their tires a little taller than others because the more important metric in tire manufacturing is bead seat diameter and width, leaving height a less considered aspect.
>>
File: traildiag2.jpg (30 KB, 400x523)
30 KB
30 KB JPG
>>1274429
Nice
Check this site for more precise numbers
http://www.bikecalc.com/wheel_size_math
Your handling is gonna be fucked, I suspect. Pic related
>>
>>1274429
It would be slightly shorter yeah but not enough to fix your problem. You'll probably need a different fork, unless you want to convert to 650b.
>>
My new (used) Mountain bike came with a WTB Trail Boss on the rear and WTB Wolverine on the front.

The Wolverine looks like its faster rolling, would it make sense to swap them around?
>>
>>1274530
Are they the same width? But yeah it's fairly standard to have the grippier tyre up front. Kind of hard to tell from the pics but it does look like the trail boss has deeper knobs.
>>
>>1274535
Trail Boss is 2.25 and Wolverine 2.2.

Indeed, the trail boss has bigger knobs, while the Wolverine has less drawing on the center, only to get wider knobs on the edge.
>>
>>1274536
Wider should usually be up front. Sounds like some dumbfuck didn't know what they were doing and mixed up the front and rear tires.
Yes, you should definitely swap them and put the Trail Boss up front and Wolverine in back
>>
>>1274455
not him but is trail good or bad?
>>
>>1274739
Well if you put a 500mm a to c mountain fork on a frame meant for 400mm your gonnaa bad time is all .. talking like... Insanely high trail
>>
>>1273868
mks pedals have a nice appearance, second only to classic campagnolo pedals. if you want beauty, go for that.

but if you value function, go for a flat aluminum pedal like the wellgo b030. they work so much better than the old caged style that there is really no comparison. they are comfortable, stick to your feet, and have fantastic power transfer.
>>
>>1274739
there's a range of acceptable trails for each bike geometry. it's not a dimension that you can maximize or minimize, it's actually derived from the other steering parameters. almost all modern bikes will have the right trail for neutral handling on the road. the major exeption to this are porteur style which is designed to be heavily loaded up front, and mountain bikes which have excessively slack steering.
>>
>>1274779
>neutral handling
What does this mean?
>>
File: StraggleSpecial.jpg (3.23 MB, 3500x1152)
3.23 MB
3.23 MB JPG
Greetings /n/.

Lets say you had to commute roughly 30 miles a day by bike. Lets also say you were able to acquire a Surly Straggler OR a Midnight Special for next to nothing. Lets also assume you're not toting much to and from work with you, maybe just a change of clothes.

Which bike do you chose, and why?
>>
>>1274785
The white one because it has a bigger chainring and it's handlebars aren't stupid.
>>
>>1274786
White bikes are bad luck though...
>>
I swapped cranks.
Now my city bike has the 130BCD crank with a 38t small ring. it's great.
But when I went to put the 144 BCD crank with the 42t small ring on the sporty bike, the small ring presses into the chainstay and won't spin.
I know I used to run a bigger small ring on that bike when it had the 130BCD crank on it, but probably just a 40t. I can't remember exactly.
So the 144BCD crank won't take smaller than a 42t ring, otherwise I would have kept it on the city bike and just put a smaller ring on.
Can I get a bottom bracket with a longer spindle that will still thread into my shell? Or do I need to just get a new 130 BCD crank for that frame?
The current bottom bracket is a Shimano sealed bearing unit I put in years ago. this is a square taper, traditional style BB. It looks like the spindle is 115mm when I put a ruler down there.
>>
>>1274785

You'll want the straggler.

The longer, slacker geometry is far more appropriate to a commute. The Midnight Special would be a better fit for someone who wanted to ride in to uni and then go do the occasional alleycat.
>>
>>1274794

If I am understanding your post correctly, it would be a better idea to get different cranks than a longer bottom bracket spindle.

A longer spindle could cause chainline issues and also messes with Q-factor, which both individually reduce efficiency.
>>
>>1274794
You can get a BB with a longer spindle. Probably the most common lengths are 113 and 118. Not sure if 118 would be enough, you could go up to a 122.5. Your BB shell is probably a 68, but it could be a 73. If you can take the BB out, it'll have the shell and spindle length printed on it.

>>1274791
>>1274786
The official Surly color is Hot Mayonnaise.
>>
File: 20150215_144150.jpg (117 KB, 1024x576)
117 KB
117 KB JPG
>>1274794
You can space out the chainring or change its position if it's on the inside of a double
>>
>>1274785
The rear dropouts on the straggler are fucking weird, I have heard complaints

I am looking to build a fat tire disc fixed gear and still kinda want one though
>>
File: pugsley-2.jpg (131 KB, 405x800)
131 KB
131 KB JPG
>>1274815
Yeah, Surly seems to do a lot of weird shit.

I remember riding behind a Pugsely and being really confused about their chainstays.
>>
>>1274812
>>1274799
>>1274802
thanks guys. not sure what I'll do but good to know.
>>
Fell off my bike today. It hurts, but true pain is reluctantly acknowledging my helmet kept me from hitting my head. Fucking lame ass helmet saving my life, fucking weak breh
>>
>>1273372
What type of bike is the best for shitty roads? Is a plain old road bike enough? I've got no clue, I'm a newbie looking for a bike I can use to explore and maybe commute.
>>
>>1274855
Welcome to the club friend. No need for shame, our heads are squishy, the road is hard.
>>
>>1274872
Depends on what type of shitty road

>USA/Canada "bad roads"
Any road bike with 25c or wider tires.
>Uneven, bumpy tarmac with lots of potholes of great size
Road bike with really wide tires or a gravel bike
>third-world tier "roads" that resemble more a gravel path with lots of cracks, potholes and numerous bumps.
Gravel bike with mountain tires or a hardtail if money is an issue.
>>
>>1274876
I kinda disagree with your 3rd world bike.

http://www.seanconway.com/cycling-europe.html#

28c is all you need.
>>
>>1274785
The Straggler because "plus" bikes are absolute fucking memes and cross bikes are fun as fuck.
I wouldn't get either though, I'd get a Salsa Vaya. It's similar geo to the Straggler in almost every way, but it's more fun to ride.
>>
>>1274905
*similar geo to the Straggler/similar in almost every way

Also, Surly and Salsa are both QBP brands so if you can get a cheap as fuck Surly, you can probably also get a cheap as fuck Salsa
>>
>>1274901
Well, that's true. You can do it but that doesn't mean you should do it, nor that it would be comfortable, practical on an everyday basis or faster.

I get your point though, a hardtail or a gravel bike would not be good for long distances, but if everything you do is on really bad roads I would consider something else than a road bike with 28c tires.
>>
>>1274911
Well, I have a gravel bike and it rocks on long distance. I would say that a gravel bike is all you really need if you're unsure about what tyre size to choose.
Fit 28c on it or do whatever and try out what suits you most up to 50c.

Would suck to buy a road bike that only fit 25 - 28c and then notice you actually need 35c.
>>
>>1274918
I think my point still remains, albeit just a little bit less. On a road bike, you might be able to go faster and farther if the road is good, but it's all about compromises and where you actually ride.

But a four wheel setup on a gravel bike might be a good compromise I would make, but it's really expensive.
>>
>>1274919
Yes, I totally agree.

Why would you need more wheels if the first pair fits all the sizes and are meant for you to go off road with?
>>
>>1274918
>Would suck to buy a road bike that only fit 25 - 28c and then notice you actually need 35c.

I'm gonna interject here to say that the other ethos, the other way of looking at it, is the classical roadie attitude. They used to fucking drill holes in everything, run tiny tires, and huge gears. Size bikes down to drop weight and build them out of the lightest tubing possible that often they ended up noodly but if they didn't it was magical. It was like how the fuck can we possibly make this less practical and more racey.

And that's a valid perspective as well. Probably more valid for anyone who's really into going hard on a road bike.
Pure road bikes still exist and they are great.

I'm not saying that you're wrong, you're absolutely right, and I have a meme bike myself, but I think your general attitude is too pervasive in the industry currently and we're about due for a backlash.
>>
why the fugg is my left knee and only my left knee sore
>>
>>1274936
Bad form
>>
>>1274929
I agree,

My general attitude is that I research after my needs.
I bought a road bike for commuting to work, ended up interested in bikepacking.. noticed that being 193cm and 100kg bw (ex-Powerlifter) that wouldnt work on a regular Road bike because I would probably put +15-20kg of gear on it.

So I ended up with a gravel bike WITHOUT even thinking about tyre sizes. Now after owning it for 1 year using it on bikepacking trips and so on I see how Huge of a point tyre sizes really are.

That's just my experience and blog post. I would love to own a pure road bike, something like an Aerobike from Canyon just for the insane looks but it would ruin my reason to own a bike by buying it.
>>
>>1274906
>>1274905

This is true, but for reasons, I'm sticking to Surly or All City.
>>
>>1274781
Not him but neutral handling means stable turning at low and high speed.

In my experience, low trail becomes too twitchy at high speed, since the steering is so responsive... While high trail can be a bitch to ride at low speed because minor corrections require major steering input (but feels super stable at high speed)
>>
>>1274905
>, I'd get a Salsa Vaya. It's similar geo to the Straggler in almost every way,

Vaya longer chainstays, less reach, and more stack on similar sizes...

For that exact reason I agree and I would pick it over the straggler for a 30 mile commute. But some people think 30 miles is racey time
>>
>>1274929
>we're about due for a backlash.
Bicycle Retail and Industry News seems to think the crisis has already arrived. Our meme bikes are a symptom of an industry reaching for anything that might increase sales
>>
>>1274975
Haven't they been pushing for more types of "do it all" bikes than ever, though?
>>
>>1274975
“This is the last bike you’ll ever need” is the most hilarious line I’ve ever seen. I forget who said it, but I’m excited to see what’s going to be getting pushed next in 5 years.
>>
>>1274979
Yeah and I think that's a last gasp before a fall

>>1274984
I have no idea but I feel they have marketed themselves into a corner
>>
I polished my rims and now my breaks aren't working good, making loud sounds and almost went off the sidewalk into the street twice yesterday when it was raining.. do I need to get a new bike?
>>
>>1274994
Why did you polish the breaking area?
>>
>>1274994
Sand off the brake line and clean it with alcohol
Also sand your brake pads
>>
>>1274995
Mother's mag wheel stuff

>>1274996
I was thinking that but wouldn't the sander rub on the tires?
>>
>>1275002
Are you a fucking moron or a troll? I honestly can't tell. Just take your fucking tire off your fucking wheel if you're too incompetent to not hit your tire when you're sanding.
>>1274956
What reasons? Vaya is better.
>>
>>1275043
I'm new to bicycling sorry

I hit it with the belt sander and now it looks like shit. I will test it tomorrow on the big hill
>>
>>1275070
sand it with your fucking hand, idiot


>>
>>1275070
Go get some Performax or Diablo sandpaper (emory cloth), and hand-sand it.
>>
Are the eBay China chain cleaners any good or should I spring for something more expensive? Currently I'm just using two tooth brushes and doing it manually but it's a bit time consuming, fine in Summer but annoying in Winter.
>>
>>1275198
They're low quality but usable, just like most of the other China crap
>>
File: 1547366656804.png (375 KB, 475x479)
375 KB
375 KB PNG
>>1273372
I'm a newfag, all of the bike-worthy paths around my area are fucked up, they just laid them like shit, there are tons of bumps and cracks in the paths that rattle bikes. I'm also fairly rural so I'll definitely be pedalling through a bit of gravel when I leave my house.
Will 700x35mm tires be comfortable in this situation? I've been trying to get ahold of a Kona Dew or Raleigh Redux, which have 650x47mm, but another option is the Giant Escape 2 with 700x35mm.
I'm 150lbs(68kg), my trips will be under 10 miles round-trip.
>>
>>1275275
Yes. That's exactly what I use. I was recommended Schwalbe Marathons and they've done the job decently.
>>
>>1275300
>>1275275
Supremes
>>
>>1275306
Second. Marathons only if puncture protection is your utmost priority, and even in that case you should get Marathon Plus
>>
>>1275198
Those contraptions aren't worth using. You're better off using a rag.
>>1275275
Yeah 35mm will be good, ride them around 65-70psi. Lower pressure means more comfortable, but also more prone to flat tires, and slower/less efficient. I'd start around 65-70, if you feel like you're going too slow or if you're getting flat tires, then raise it a little. Alternatively if your ride feels too harsh and rough, then lower the pressure a little
>>
>>1275310
>35mm will be good, ride them around 65-70psi
I'd say that's way too high pressure, specially for a 68kg rider. But you're right, it's better to just go ride and adjust as you go to find the sweet spot.
>>
>>1275310
>Those contraptions aren't worth using. You're better off using wax.
ftfy
>>
>>1275275
Schwalbe marathon supremes 35c if mostly pavement, broken pavement no problem

Soma cazaderos 700 x 47c if mostly gravel... I think they do 650b size too

Alternatively, WTB Byway, somewhere in between these

Supremes have the elite puncture protection and impressive speed on pavement thought, better than the other two I suspect
>>
>>1275409
fix that fucking bar angle and slam that stem before you start complaining about aesthetics
>>
>>1275407
Just buy a charbon frame if that irks you so bad
>>
Are the flat teeth supposed to be like this, or are they damaged? I know chainrings have ramps and pins to help with shifting, but I thought that when teeth look like this, it's because they're damaged. Someone else said that they are ramping teeth and they are supposed to be like this. Who is right?
not my bike btw
>>
File: 8s30Z.jpg (20 KB, 300x201)
20 KB
20 KB JPG
>>1275446
those are busted dude, get a new ring. See pic related to see what ramps and pins look like.
>>
>>1275446
RIP
>>
>>1275450
>>1275470
Yeah I thought the teeth were damaged (like I said, not my bike). I know what ramps/pins look like, but someone claimed that those teeth are "ramping teeth". Apparently she doesn't know what she's talking about. Thanks
>>
If I normally always stay in one gear should I get a fixed gear bike?
>>
>>1275472
Sometimes teeth do have different profiles, but that's just fucked. I'd be very surpised if it wasn't slipping if you really crank down on it which is pretty damn dangerous. The entire drivetrain, cassette, ring, and chain needs to be replaced.
>>
Buying my first road bike soon, is the Giant Contend 3 a good starting bike?
>>
>>1275479
The owner of the bike said the bike (including drivetrain) only has 1k miles on it wtf
>>
>>1275478
Consider a single speed. Or you could just keep riding the bike you have. It takes a special kind of person to enjoy fixed gear.
>>
>>1275490
It's a blessing getting to take off any meme product like a praxis works chaining
>>
What cadence and gear inch do you ride on a 5% hill?
>>
>>1275520
do you mean like a steady climb, taking it easy, short one and smeashing it or what

lotta variables here
>>
>>1275481
yea, or a used old ten speed
>>
File: oh mr egg man.gif (476 KB, 500x277)
476 KB
476 KB GIF
Alright bike dudes need some advice on this before I go into my LBS blind.

The bike: My beloved winter beater / mail getter, a Diamondback hard-tail with the standard low end (GENERIC) triple up front, shimano tourney in the back. So your standard poopbike but it gets me around the neighborhood when I don't want to ride my roadie.

Problem: Bit it on some ice and bent in the teeth of the largest cog of the front chainring. About 4 are bent inwards and it looks like the chain is a bent too. The bike rides but I'm seeing a bit of slipping and visually the thing is clearly bent.

Solutions?: Ideally I'll just bent the teeth back using needle nosed pliers and replace the sideways bent chain but....

If I can't I want to know what is the feasibility of getting a large chainring that will fit a no-name front crankset? Off the top of my head the big ring is a 46? maybe 48?

Last alternative is buying a new crankset for a shimano tourney on ebay and installing it. But considering this bike is really worth about 100-150 I'd rather keep the price low on this one...
>>
>>1275529
You probably can’t replace rings if you have tourney. Even some high end shimano has really obscure rings.
>>
>>1275534
>You probably can’t replace rings if you have tourney.

It's not Tourney, it's just some generic crankset.
>>
File: measure-bcd (1).jpg (22 KB, 400x301)
22 KB
22 KB JPG
>>1275529
>what is the feasibility of getting a large chainring that will fit a no-name front crankset

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html

99% chance it's 5 bolt 110bcd or 4 bolt 104bcd. 1% chance it's 5 bolt 94bcd
>>
This is partially a bike purchase question but I just don't know anything about bikes.

I'm a fucking retard who keeps breaking his intertubes, breaks, and handlebars. Should I just get a bike with solid wheels, no breaks, and solid handlebars (no gears) or is there a way to get decent handlebars/intertube without doing all this?

I want a bike for mostly transportation but I have a minor interest in off roading. All flat terrain though.
>>
>>1275583
Stop buying shit components
>>
>>1275584
All I have is a "walmart bike"
>>
>>1274781
slow handling is a bicycle that wants very strongly to track straight and takes a lot of effort to turn.
twitchy handling is a bike that wants to turn off to the side and requires constant steering input to stay on course.
neutral handling is a balance between the two conditions. a light tendency to track straight, but still responsive to rider input.
this is mostly determined by how the center of gravity of the bike moves up and down as the fork traverses its steering range.
>>
File: sa215a10-black.jpg (35 KB, 841x840)
35 KB
35 KB JPG
Not a question but goddamn finally found me a saddle that my crotch likes

Wtb volt comp 150

I posted a while back asking what to try next after trying: stock road bike saddle, specialized power, charge spoon, btwin 900 sport and all left my dick numb.
Idk if it's the width or flatness of it (leading edge and sides of the "wings" on so many other saddles seem to curve downwards while these are relatively flat), but my crotch stays alert and full of blood on 1-hr + rides now. Maybe fizik arione would have worked too but I feel the whale tail is also lifting my sit bones up. My sit bones measure 110mm apart and everywhere else seemed to say 130-140 would work, wtbs chart puts me on their 150.

My sitbones were supported before but maybe they shared the load with my perineum or were loaded less, because now it feels like I just started cycling again, they have a similar soreness but I know it will go away once my ass breaks in to this saddle.
>>
>>1275522
steady climb, for maximum average speed without destroying your knees.
>>
>>1273372
Newfaggot looking to get a touring bike setup; what sort of frame material would be best for that? I'd like to use it on some rough paths, no beating it up or riding off-path. I'll also use it to commute. For example, I've heard the aluminum is rigid and high-tensile steel sucks.
>>
>>1275686
get expensive steel if you want a comfy ride
all else is shit
>>
Let's say I need a 56cm frame.

The bike I'm looking at is 57.8cm effective and 56.1cm actual...is this my size, or is this going to be too big? I don't understand what "effective" or "actual" mean in regards to actual sizing. Which should I be looking at when I buy?
>>
>>1273476
https://shop.fairdalebikes.com/collections/2019-fairdale-bikes/products/2019-fairdale-taj-26-candy-blue
>>
File: skid10.jpg (85 KB, 799x531)
85 KB
85 KB JPG
>>1273476
>>
>>1275708
Figure out stack and reach, those are the real numbers that matter. Measure a bike you own and compare
>>
>>1275686
STEEL

Get a Salsa Vaya
>>
>>1275686
Hi-ten doesn't suck it's just not as good as chromoly
>>
>>1275686
Your gonna want to get a 2017 Diamondback Haanjo EXP Carbon

Extremely based full carbon frame with lightweight nice speed deore and bar end shifters for reliable durability on international monstercross adventures

Truly cutting edge build that did not sell because nobody is based enough to realize that both carbon and bar end 9 speed are patrician tier, as well as being 1 year too early to call itself a gravel allroad prolly adventure wagon

Probably still in stock, i think they only sold a few dozen of their 10,000 frame order
>>
>>1275724
Okay but my question was more what's the difference between effective and actual?
>>
>>1275760
Draw a horizonal line from the center of top of head tube to the seat post, that is the effective length

This is a leftover from when so bikes had horizontal top tube

Actual top tube length is actual length of of the tube, which is at an angle on most bikes now. Useful for calculating standover, exposed seatpost, and frame bag space I guess
>>
>>1275744
based
>>
>>1275766
Thanks!
>>
>>1275529
well, are the rings riveted to the crank? then you need a whole new crank.
are they bolted on? then >>1275562.

it's one or the other, man.
>>
>>1275586
so, you've bought a whole bike's worth of shit components, along with a shit frame.
his assessment stands.

go to the /bbg/ for buying and depending on your used market they should be able to find you something used that is not-shit for around the price of a Walmart bike.
>>
>>1275728
ehhhhhh, hiten sucks, dude.
>>
How much should I pay for a full Alivio group set?
>>
>>1275891
I mean a new one.
>>
Is there any difference between men's and women's bikes if they have the same wheel size?

The womens bikes often come in more fun colors
>>
>>1275896
Women have longer legs and shorter torsos
So womens bikes often have a short reach
In reality it doesn't really matter much

I got my mum an old 10spd step through and i like riding it
I agree with you about the colours too. I want a road bike with purple highlights too.
>>
>>1275901
>women
>being the subject of any spatial analysis

Pick one and only one
>>
>>1275896
One makes you look like a fag, the other proves you are.
>>
File: dreyfuss.png (117 KB, 630x280)
117 KB
117 KB PNG
>>1275901
The bike industry used to think that, but as they gathered more data they realized that they were wrong. It is true that women have narrower shoulders, so women's bikes get specced with narrower handlebars. Women also tend to prefer less aggressive geometry, which is why the Ruby is more laid back than the Roubaix, for instance. Cycling Weekly has a good article about it here: https://www.cyclingweekly.com/fitness/bike-fit/custom-bikes-womens-specific-geometry-381525
>>
>>1275906
I literally am gay, my boyfriend doesn't mind if my bike makes me look like a fag
>>
I bought a used rigid MTB. The no-name tires it came with were all cracked and shit, so I bought a pair of Contis (Double Fighter) to replace them.

Both wheels are 26x1.90. The rear tire was a 50-559 ETRTO, and the front is 52-559. The new pair I bought is 50-559 (26x1.90).

Will the new tires run fine on my front wheel?
>>
>>1276272
yes
it's just 2mm narrower
>>
File: tire width chart2.png (20 KB, 636x414)
20 KB
20 KB PNG
>>1276272
Technically correct answer: Probably, refer to pic related

Practical answer: Almost certainly yes
>>
>>1275891
Shimano is garbage, get Sram instead
>>
>>1275927
depends on the bike. most bikes nowadays are for all purposes unisex. Liv is Giant for women (women didn't want to ride a bike that said GIANT).

Sometimes women's specific bikes will have different geometry but not by much. If it fits it fits.
>>
>>1275744
>Full carbon Haanjo

nice choice. Even the entry level Haanjo is a good choice but this is the UPgrade
>>
Recently got a 90's rigid MTB with cantilevers. Redoing the brakes and... the brake arms refuse to be parallel in its resting position. I cleaned and greased the bosses, the springs are positioned in the middle hole. Not sure what I'm missing, but I'm hoping this could be fixed or atleast not be a huge deal if it's not fixable.
>>
>>1276353
Parallel to what? What do you mean?
If the springs are worn out, you can move them to the end hole. There's 3 holes for a reason, it gives you the option to adjust.
>atleast not be a huge deal if it's not fixable.
Worst case scenario is you need new brake arms
>>
Are those saddle mounted bottle holders particularly insecure (especially on rougher stuff)? I seem to hear about triathletes in particular losing bottles a lot.

But I saw a guy with what looked like a triple combo off the back of his saddle, with what appeared to be two small bottles and a tool caddy in place of a saddle bag.

It might not be terribly practical but it seems like a neat idea.
>>
>>1276380
Ass rockets are not to be trusted. If you don’t need them don’t use them.
>>
any recommendations on bike lights?
particularly back lights
something inexpensive
>>
>>1276387
Cygolite hotshot. $20 on amazon. It's a steal for a real taillight that isn't chinkshit.
>>
>>1276388
wow thanks, and how about a front light, if im willing to spend a bit more for visibility
>>
>>1276393
That's a harder one because you can optimize for different things.

If you're riding mostly on 2-way bike paths, MUPs, or otherwise in close quarters with other cyclists and pedestrians, you want something with a StVZO style beam cutoff.

If you're in heavy motor traffic you want both a strobe function as well as a strong steady beam, because you want to be noticed in a rear view mirror if you're overtaking near an intersection or something, and you don't want to get doored or right hooked (left hooked if Thailand or some other bizarro country)

Some cyclists will screech at you about "blinding people" but that should not be your primary concern unless it's the first situation and not the second.
>>
Mudguard recommendations for an adventure/gravel bike?

For some reason halfrauds fitted SKS race blade pros, which are narrower than my tires the bike has lugs for full length mudguards and came with 700x38c tires
>>
I've got a old MTB with a triple up front that I want to turn into a double, are chainrings universal? Can I just put the two chainrings in the size I want in there and be good to go? Or is there a certain type of chainrings I need to get? Sorry if this is a dumb question and I've overlooked something obvious.
>>
>>1276590

No, chainrings are not universal. No, you cannot just put chainrings of the size you want on any random crank. Yes, there are a certain type of chainrings you need to get. The type depends on your crankset. No, you cannot really change a triple into a double by swapping chainrings. You will basically need an entirely new crankset and probably also a new cogset more appropriate to a double chainring.
>>
>>1276598
I figured as much but I wanted to be sure, was hoping to save a bit of money just buying a couple of chainrings instead of a whole new crankset. Oh well, thanks for the thorough answer anon.
>>
so I left my bike out since Christmas when I went home from school and now it's like this. The guy said the chain would cost $25 and I don't have any money so I was wondering if I could clean it or something just to get to class. Thanks
>>
>>1276639
you cant afford $25.... you are stupid and deserve all the pain in the world.

fucking fixie faggot too
>>
>>1276639
>not being a chad and riding the rust into functionality
>>
>>1276639
Look after your shit next time, also no, the rust is permanent and that chain and likely the chainrings are completely destroyed
>>
>>1276644
I'd say it isn't his fault for being a poor student, it happens with being attached to a bunch of expenses. I'd say he's an idiot for not oiling his chain to prevent his problem in the first place
>>
>>1276648
I suppose that's fair, we've all been stupid at one point or another, not that stupid though

>>1276639
If you have some basic tools like pliers, a couple of screwdrivers, some wd40 and steel wool you could probably clean up your chain rings and install a new chain yourself for half the money, if you don't have the tools time to sell something for money or get on your knees and gib succ
>>
I got pacific fenders and the screws are too large for the eyelets. If I were to go shopping for screws, how am I supposed to know what size to get?
>>
>>1276678
Like... too big diameter for the eyelets on your bike? Are you sure? Try putting one in by itself, without the fender, just to see if it will thread in. Are your eyelets clean, not stripped, etc?

If what you say is true (which I kinda have a hard time believing), and it's not just that you're being stupid crossthreading or trying to force it into a dirty eyelet or whatever... then go to the hardware store, bring the too-big bolt that you have, and get new ones of the same length, and go one size down with diameter. Bike stuff is almost always metric. You'll probably be needing M5 (5mm) or M4 (4mm). If I had to guess, it came with M5s and you'll need M4s.
>>
>>1276691
Thanks to your tip, I tried looking up M5 and eyelets, and then I read some people mentioning excess paint as the culprit. So I tried all eyelets instead of just two, and I used an allen key instead of just my hand. Turns out the two eyelets I tried first are very tight and I had to use the allen key and a lot of force just to get the screw to start engaging the threads. The screw shaved off the excess paint. My mistake was thinking that I could just use my hands to start to get the screws in. Thanks.
>>
>>1276691
>trying to force it into a dirty eyelet or whatever

You could also roll by your LBS and they can run a tap through to clean up the threads if they have dirt or paint on them.
>>
>>1276700
Be careful not to crossthread. Use grease. Phil Wood grease is good https://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/phil-wood-waterproof-grease
>>
>>1276549
velo orange if you don't want to break the bank
honjo if you do
>>
>>1276549

I like SKS longboards. But if you're going to be riding over actual gravel, rocks, and sticks you might want to be careful with any long fender and any fender that does not come with quick-release tabs

If a stick gets pulled up by your front tread and under a fender without release tabs, it can lock the wheel. Hypothetically could kill you. Half of the fenders for sale don't have this feature so safe to assume it's pretty rare but I would not fuck with it

Also might explain the raceblades. They should pop right off in that situation
>>
Does the loss of cycling efficiency due to suspension forks also apply to all efforts to soften a ride?
>>
>>1276702
>Phil Wood grease is good
...sure, but, for a thread and not a bearing, there's literally no advantage whatsoever over just some generic wheel bearing grease or whatever from an autoparts store which is much easier to get and much cheaper.
Even otherwise it's debatable
>>
>>1276863
A large part of how fast / far you can go relates to how comfortable you are. If you're sore or badly fatigued you're gonna be slow.

On the other hand, many efforts to make a ride more 'comfortable' might not even necessarily make it slower (wider tires for example), but they might make it feel slower, or atleast, less racey. Which is really more important in a way. 'Comfy' isn't always a good thing.
>>
>>1276868
> Not using Motorex 2000 because it's cool neon green
Idiot
>>
I found a steel frame in dumpster. What caught my attention, that it is not welded, but brazed, and super light for steel.
Honestly, I don't know a types of bicycle, but it looks something like commuter bike, or road bike.

Should I make it great again? I want to install Shimano Nexus 3 gear hub (because my inner autist likes them for reliability, compared to classical cog set thing), and "250W" electric motor wheel in front, because I'm lazy. Is it a good idea?
>>
>>1276880
get a vintage sturmey archer instead. ebikes are for faggots. give this bike life again. let it bring joy to your heart
>>
>>1276880
>make it great again
>classical cog set thing
> electric motor wheel in front, because I'm lazy.
Amerifat go hoem
>>
>>1276870
Methods to make ride more comfy without actually being slower? Is it just tires?
>>
>>1276880
>Should I make it great again?
yes
> I want to install Shimano Nexus 3 gear hub (because my inner autist likes them for reliability, compared to classical cog set thing), and "250W" electric motor wheel in front, because I'm lazy. Is it a good idea?
no get the fuck out
>>
>>1276890
its mostly good tires, then fit. wide, supple tires are just as fast as skinny hard ones, on road and off. your fit should allow primary position on the hoods, secondary on the drops. remember that your fit must prioritize your ability to breathe deeply over aero. if you can't breathe properly, aero is useless. thicc bartape is nice, and you should be on a leather saddle - brooks, gilles berthoud, etc. comfy = long, effortfull, fast rides
>>
>>1276886
>get a vintage sturmey archer instead
Hm... If I will find one cheap in my shithole, I will definitely install.
>ebikes are for faggots.
All faggots use electric motors, but not all electric motor users are faggots.
At least I will turn it in electric bike myself.
>let it bring joy to your heart
Sure it will.
>>1276893
>no get the fuck out
But why?
Geared hubs work best for me, since I can't tune derailleurs, so they work and don't make chain fly off.
Also I like geared hubs, since they can switch to first gear in stationary state, while in classic derailleur system it might cause chain to fly off. So, it is idiot-proof.
Electric motor is really useful, when it is +30-35°c outside, and you don't want to accidentally loose consciousness.
>>
>>1276902
>since I can't tune derailleurs, so they work and don't make chain fly off
Basic derailer adjustment isn't very complicated.
>So, it is idiot-proof.
No, I've seen Nexus internals ground into dust because idiots constantly shift under high load. Also the recommended servicing period for disassembling and soaking the Nexus internals is at least once a year, twice a year if often ridden in rainy or dusty conditions. It still needs maintenance, just not the same kind as a derailer bike.
>>
Any recommendations for good flat pedals for a road bike?

I'll go clip less when hell freezes over, I only have space for one bike and I refuse to commute to work and go shopping in specialist shoes
>>
>>1276905
>Basic derailer adjustment isn't very complicated.
Maybe, but I can't get it right for some reason.
>No, I've seen Nexus internals ground into dust because idiots constantly shift under high load.
Hm. What will happen in derailleur system, if you shift under much torque?
>Also the recommended servicing period for disassembling and soaking the Nexus internals is at least once a year, twice a year if often ridden in rainy or dusty conditions.
Didn't know that, but thing never failed on me in my previous bicycles.
>>
File: pile-o-pedals.jpg (174 KB, 1024x1024)
174 KB
174 KB JPG
>>1276906
Strongly recommend the cheapest pinned pedals... Diamondback DX. They rule.. $20

https://www.ebay.com/p/Diamondback-Bigfoot-Pedals-9-16inch-Axle-67-18-312-Black/2255926946?iid=173686829082

If you want something fancy check out gravelbike's 2018 pedal roundup

https://www.gravelbike.com/2018-flat-pedal-roundup-part-ii/
>>
>>1276907
Anyway, what is the best way to deal with rust?
It has steel brake levers, which is super cool and I don't want to replace them with chinks garbage.
>>
>>1276907
Most people know to lay off the watts when shifting in general. But replacing a chain and freewheel is a lot cheaper than replacing Nexus parts. And while your chain/cog will last longer being singlespeed with ideal chainline, they still need replacing fairly often.
>>
>>1276907
>Hm. What will happen in derailleur system, if you shift under much torque?
If you're a sprinter with thighs the size of tree trunks and standing on the pedals and time the shift wrong, a bent cog tooth. Derailers are meant to be shifted under some torque, they literally can't shift without pedaling.

IGH don't want to shift properly while pedaling at all.
>>
>>1276916
Okay.
Anyway, I can always go back and install stock derailleur. It is sorta working, but needs some rust removal for sure.
>>1276917
I think derailleur needs only rotation in order to shift, so you can turn pedals slower, so freewheel won't engage and there will be no force on chain.
>>
>>1276906
MKS Allways pinned flats if you're feeling a bit bling, otherwise cheaparse wellgos or whatever.
>>
>>1276931
>MKS Allways

interestin I guess

>otherwise cheaparse wellgos

This is how we know you have tiny baby feet.

>>1276906
>Any recommendations for good flat pedals for a road bike?

Bonmixc mountain bike pedals the 4 bearing model, 29.99 amazon.

You want a flat pedal as big as you can get that doesn't scrape the ground when you turn.

these fuckers are 4.6 inches x 4 inches.



Delete Post: [File Only] Style:
[Disable Mobile View / Use Desktop Site]

[Enable Mobile View / Use Mobile Site]

All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.