[a / b / c / d / e / f / g / gif / h / hr / k / m / o / p / r / s / t / u / v / vg / vr / w / wg] [i / ic] [r9k / s4s / vip / qa] [cm / hm / lgbt / y] [3 / aco / adv / an / asp / bant / biz / cgl / ck / co / diy / fa / fit / gd / hc / his / int / jp / lit / mlp / mu / n / news / out / po / pol / qst / sci / soc / sp / tg / toy / trv / tv / vp / wsg / wsr / x] [Settings] [Search] [Home]
Board
Settings Home
/n/ - Transportation

Name
Options
Comment
Verification
4chan Pass users can bypass this verification. [Learn More] [Login]
File
  • Please read the Rules and FAQ before posting.
  • There are 126 posters in this thread.

05/04/17New trial board added: /bant/ - International/Random
10/04/16New board for 4chan Pass users: /vip/ - Very Important Posts
06/20/16New 4chan Banner Contest with a chance to win a 4chan Pass! See the contest page for details.
[Hide] [Show All]


All work safe boards are now on the 4channel.org domain. Make sure to update your script blockers and whitelist the new domain.

There's now a setting option under Navigation to display the full list of boards on 4channel.org

The 4chan Vtuber Competition is over. Click here to see the winning entry!



File: bqg2.jpg (393 KB, 1455x1091)
393 KB
393 KB JPG
this is missing, questions, answers lets go
>>
File: DSC_0076[1].jpg (2.39 MB, 4096x2304)
2.39 MB
2.39 MB JPG
so im changing my fork on my road bike. tappered head.
new fork needed a new headset sealed bearing, so i bought what the manufacturer told me (felt, direct email with them). and this is what is pictured. does it seem right for you guys?
check out the next pic im posting
>>
File: DSC_0077[1].jpg (2.29 MB, 4096x2304)
2.29 MB
2.29 MB JPG
this is how it fts. it feel locked but at the same time its far from going to the base. im putting minor force down in the pic, so thats the final position.

does it look good? is this suposed to be like this? dont have much experience with forks and bearing liek these. thats why i need help, thanks
>>
>>1258422
>>1258420
You've got it oriented right but you're missing your crown race.
>>
>>1258435
It has an integral crown race ya dingus
>>
>>1258422
It definitely looks like you're missing a piece
Why not just compare it with your previous headset?
>>
My Veloce RD supposedly can take up to 29 teeth cogs, do you guys think I could get away with a 30 teeth big cog?
>>
>>1258468
yes
>>
>>1258468
If it just doesn't work, try getting a longer b limit screw
>>
>>1258463
uhhhh they usually don't make those out of carbon
>>
I just use finished a ride. Hit a pothole during a Sprint and heard an unpleasant crack sound. How and where should I check the bike for cracks?
>>
>>1258546
I'd check both rims, all spokes, whole fork+steerer, and at the downtube/headtube junction (seen a few frames crack there after crashes)
>>
>>1258548
Already checked wheels they look good, would cracks in the frame or fork be obvious through the paint?
>>
>>1258550
What material is your frame?
>>
>>1258554
It is carbon
>>
my schwalbe lugano's that came with my bike started to fraying from it's sides. also i got two flats in a week. one was from low pressure when i'm going to gas station. the other was small beer bottle piece in campus. should i replace my tires? if so, i need recommendations. i might not be able to find some tires in turkey so more is better.
>>
>>1258557
In that case cracks may not be too obvious to spot, sometimes what looks like a paint scratch can go deeper. They can even be not visible at all.
>>
Will cycling in shorts hurt my knees? I seen some people say it does but most of those people are old or middle aged and I'm only 18.
>>
>>1258580
In the cold i mean
>>
>>1258580
>>1258616
lolno
>>
>>1258616
how cold is cold? I usually find when cycling legs are the least affected, probably because they're working a lot.
>>
>>1258419
Not sure where else to ask this but:
How stupid would it be to build a "hoverbike" as in a human powered hovercraft?
I have a rough idea about the general construction (mainly wood, depron and plastic-foil), but no idea where to source the blower for the skirt.
>>
>>1258676
>hoverbike
Stupid, but entirey feasible.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=soxxPyaAT1k

>human powered
You have got to be joking.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4O5voOCqAQ
>>
>>1258684
>You have got to be joking.
It should be possible, but still a stupid idea.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=syJq10EQkog
>>
>>1258684
I don't need that much power, it already has been done.
My idea for the variable power-split between blower and propeller is to use the rotor of a flybarless RC-helicopter to have variable pitch.
>>
>>1258580
>most of those people are old or middle aged
This has something to do with it - cold temperatures limit how effectively your joints function because the sinovial fluid becomes more dense and doesn't flow as effectively. Older folks notice the effects of cold more quickly because gradual wear on the body over the years means their joints already have accumulated wear and injury that makes them more sensitive. Whether riding in the cold is harmful to the knees in itself is harmful or not isn't something that has been demonstrated scientifically (afaik), but given the reduced performance of your sinovial fluid, it stands to reason that the cold isn't going to do you any favors, and might reasonably be assumed to increase your chances of developing the sort of injury that knees are also vulnerable to in warmer conditions, so covering your knees in the cold (below freezing at least) is a sensible and simple preventive measure to take.

>>1258676
Really stupid. In absolute terms humans don't put out much useful horsepower (0.2 hp for a well trained athlete in ideal conditions), so you'd probably waste more 1000x more energy in efficiency losses than you'd stand to gain by adding human-produced power into a machine that would require a massively powerful engine to function at all.

>>1258573
look at the tread of your tire - if it's worn the point of having a large, smooth plateau on top, or if the tread has worn down so that the casing inside is exposed in places then it's definitely time to replace

>>1258422
I think this is fine, there doesn't appear to be any real space left for anything missing, but I'd compare to other pictures of this fork justto be safe.
>>
>>1258688
>Really stupid. In absolute terms humans don't put out much useful horsepower (0.2 hp for a well trained athlete in ideal conditions)
O,2 hp are just 150W, I can do about 200-250W for one hour plus I only weight 60 kg.
Pro riders pedal well above 350W (0,47hp) for one hour.
>so you'd probably waste more 1000x more energy in efficiency losses than you'd stand to gain by adding human-produced power into a machine that would require a massively powerful engine to function at all.
I wasn't talking about a hybrid system, I was talking about using ONLY human power for it.
>>
>>1258676
>How stupid would it be to build a "hoverbike" as in a human powered hovercraft?
It would be quite difficult, but doable. You just need to calculate wings, so it will take off at 30 km/h, or even lower. Also you need some sort of fan.
>>
>>1258699
>I can do about 200-250W for one hour plus
You can ride 40 km/h on pedal power for hour?
>>
>>1258699
>>>1258699
would you mind taking this to
>>>/diy/
>>
>>1258687
Show maths, please.
>>
>>1258711
i don't think that much power usually gets you to 40 km/h
>>
>>1258709
>hovercraft
>wings
>>1258711
No, that would reqire even more power or a verry aerodynamic position like a recumbent bike.
>>1258712
ok, this will be my last post about it here.
>>1258714
I didn't calculate it yet since that would require me to know the blowers efficiency and the leakage of the skirt.
>>
>>1258711
A dry road has a friction coefficient of about 0,7. Let's say anon + his bike have a mass of 75 kg. That's 735 N of weight, 515 N of resistance from the road that he has to overcome to keep a constant speed of 40 km/h.
If he rides 40 000 metres, taking an hour to do so, he will have needed a total of 20 060 kJ over 3 600 seconds, or 5 722 J/s, also known as watts. Is anon capable of outputting 5,7 kW? I don't think so.
For the result to be 250 W, the friction coefficient would need to be 22 times lower, so 0,03. And we haven't factored in wind resistance, which increases with speed.
>>
>>1258791
Also this is assuming a perfect power transmission with no losses whatsoever.
>>
>>1258791
I honestly don't know that much about physics, but there is something seriously wrong with your calculations. A good pair of tyres will give you around 30 W of rolling resistance, riding on the flat the vast majority of your power goes towards air resistance, especially at those higher speeds.
>>
>>1258793
At 750 kg, the mass of a small car (the Twingo III weighs about 860 kg), it would mean a power of 57,2 kW. The Twingo III with its engine develops between 51 kW and 77 kW. I might be off by a factor of 2 or 3, but we're in the correct order of magnitude.
>>
>>1258802
no we're fucking not LOL
go watch a bike race some time, they routinely cruise over 40 km/h in the peloton, those guys in the middle are doing probably less than 200 W sheltered from the wind. If your calculations were remotely true, then riding a bike at all would be a herculean task.

Consider that a car doesn't actually use all it's power unless you really put the pedal down while accelerating hard or climbing a hill.

btw modern derailleur bike transmissions are probably 95%+ efficient as a ballpark
>>
>>1258805
Do the calculations yourself
>>
>>1258497
ok grampa
>>
>>1258688
Doesn’t 0.2 hp = 150 watts or am I missing something or is your definition of “well trained” not the same as mine
>>
Let's talk groceries and transporting other medium sized items. Dedicated cargo bike, strapping lots of bags to your bike or getting a detachable trailer?
>>
>>1258809
Baskets on racks
>>
>>1258809
baskets on racks
baskets on racks
baskets on racks

a couple pybt threads ago, there was a guy that had foldable wald baskets attached as low-rider panniers. patrician af
>>
>>1258806
Rolling resistance is defined as F=C_rr**N, where C_rr is the rolling resistance coefficient and N is the normal force.
A typical bicycle tire has a C_rr of around 0.003.

So the rolling resistance for a a 75 kg rider+ a 10 kg bike would be 0.003*833.6 N =2.5 N.

For the aerodynamic drag we know that F=1/2*ρ*v^2*C_d*A, where ρ is air denisity, v is velocity, C_d is coefficient of drag and A is frontal area.
A fairly standard C_d*A is 0.3.

So at 40 km/h this would be 1/2*(1.225 kg/m^3)*(11.11 m/s)^2*(0.3 m^2)=22.7 N

If we add these two, and multiply by velocity for the power needed we get (2.5 N+22.7 N)*11.11 m/s = 280 W, which is without considering drivetrain loss and other smaller factors. This is pretty close to the real life data I have from using a power meter.
>>
>>1258809
Trailer only if you shop at Costco or wanna get the 48 pack of toilet paper.
I have the Axiom Oceanweave 55s and have more than enough room for groceries. Wish the backing were a bit stiffer, though.
>>
What is a good gear ratio for tackling hills on a single speed?
>>
>>1258845
Not fucking with a single speed and getting a cheap 7-speed freewheel.
>>
>>1258845
Depends on your hills. I do deliveroo on my 44/16 steel steed and it does me OK for 400m 7% climbs though I am puffing at the top.
>>
I posted this in /BBG/ but this thread seems more active, I'd like to hear more people voice their opinion on this.

I'm a complete newbie and I need some help.
I posted in (I think) the last thread about finding a nice looking bike in a tiny store run by a nice old man for surprisingly cheap compared to similar looking bike (front suspensions, disc breaks, 20 something gears, 27.5 wheels, stuff like that).
I asked what I should look for in a bike and what I should check before buying a bike for a price that seems too good to be true.
I didn't get a chance to stop by that store again until today, it was closed, but I managed to look through the window and catch a glimpse of the bike he recommended me, on the frame it said "active" on the bottom tube and "limited" on the top tube (or the other way around).
I tried looking it up online and I couldn't find anything from that brand, only bikes from 'cube' like in pic related.
It looks similar to my untrained eye (except green and black), but I doubt it's the same company.

Are 'fake' bikes a thing I should be worried about? what about non-brands so to speak?
Does anyone recognize that brand "active limited"?
I'm fairly certain he said the gears are from shimano (I think I remember that right), which are considered a reliable brand, right?

I'm no cyclist by any means, I just want a bike for commuting, but I also want to be limited by myself, and not by the bike, if that makes sense, so I don't mind cheap-er, but I do mind cheap-est.
>>
>>1258865
There's tons of cheap Chinese/Asian bikes and bike components out there that are just plain garbage and should be avoided. The reason why is poor manufacturing techniques producing low-quality parts that perform poorly and/or are not durable. A bike that starts having problems and is falling apart after a couple months of riding it is not a good deal at any price. Also there are counterfeit goods out there that are also low quality and in some cases dangerous (i.e. a frameset that is a counterfeit of a name brand can literally fail while riding and land you in the Emergency Room or the morgue). /n/ will talk sometimes about 'BSOs' (Bike Shaped Objects), usually found in places like Walmart; bikes of no known brand, with components of no known brand. These are cheap low-quality machines like I described above.

Overall you're better off with a known, quality-brand bike, built with known, quality-branded components.

Get on Craigslist and find a used quality bike instead of a new shitty bike.
>>
File: 714000_zoom.jpg (700 KB, 4211x2416)
700 KB
700 KB JPG
>>1258870
I really want to believe it wasn't a knockoff because the old man running the store was great, but how would I be able to tell from looking at the bike personally or by asking him certain questions?

It's not quite alibaba or walmart cheap, costing roughly 360 bux, So while it probably costs more than it would in the US of A due to imports and my country (Israel) being generally pretty expensive, It's also not quite a third world shithole and he operates not far from other shops that sell at more predictable prices for the type of bike (around 520$ ish).
As I said, googling the brand name brings up nothing and I tried looking in aliexpress for that bike and couldn't find something with that particular design.
I should try and take a picture next time I'm there.

pic semi related, it's obviously not the bike I'm talking about but it's similar in shape.
>>
>>1258875
The thing is, the fact that the old guy and the nearby shops sell the same type of bike (a hardtail MTB in this case), doesn't mean they're all the same quality. There's good hardtails and shit hardtails. Generally speaking when a frame has such buzzwords stickered all over, it's a shitty bike. Also there's a wide variety of Shimano components, ranging from pro race tier to barely good enough tier, so that's not a quality guarantee either.
>>
>>1258810
>>1258814
>>1258809
Speaking of this I just built a bike for this purpose, got it up and running yesterday and need a front basket/rack, any recommendations?
>>
Is it okay to buy a tour bike from bicyclesdirect? Whats the most I should be spending on that site?
>>
>>1258887
Depends on your bike what rack you can use, I have a Wald 137 (I think) basket that came without all the mounting junk. I zip tied it on and it’s been solid for 2 years so far.
>>
Is there REALLY that much of a difference between rim and disc breaks?
>>
>>1258910
Depends: if you're riding a road bike (which means you don't brake much anyways) in a dry conditions then no. If you're riding in wet conditions then yes. If you're mountain biking, discs can help because they can put more force out at the wheel with less hand effort, which is important when you're going to be doing lots of braking for hours on end.
>>
>>1258916
What about if I'm just a casual commuter?
Do disc breaks have an advantage in wet conditions?
>>
>>1258889
BD bikes are fine as long as you know enough to adjust everything on your own and true the wheels before riding them... or are willing to pay a shop to do all this for you.
>>
>>1258918
What does BD stand for? I'm only interested in tour bikes and would like to know if it's a reliable site

Of course I will be inspecting it thoroughly before I take it on a ride
>>
>>1258961
BikesDirect ya dingus
>>
Recommend me a headlight for electric scooter (or bike, same thing).
I was driving in the night for the first time, it was dark, so I used stock headlight. Oncoming traffic was flashing me. Not cool, considering that it didn't even illuminate needful area.
>>
What's your chain cleaning, lubricating regime?
Some chain manufacturer recommends against solvent bath, presumably because the factory lube in inaccessible parts cannot easily be replaced by the consumer.
Some advise against cleaning the chain. They feel that lubricating does enough to push out dirt from the important parts.
Thoughts?
>>
>>1259012
I use a park tools chain cleaner with a mix of water/simple green. Fill it half way and spin the chain for awhile to get all the shit off. After that I'll clean the chain ring and cassette with a brush before wiping it all dry and re-lubing the chain. If you're just riding roads or commuting I don't imagine you'll have to do this too often. If you're riding trails I would do it after 20-30 hours of riding unless it's wet conditions, then after every ride.
>>
>>1259012
I just lightly oil it when it starts making noise, spin the cranks a few times, wait 20 mins, then run the chain through a rag a few times

If it's really dirty I'll wet a rag with kerosene and run it through that a few times, then let it dry, then oil.

Also clean the jockey wheels and if they aren't sealed bearing then service them with grease and a lil cup of kerosene and a rag. Not often though.
>>
>>1258984
Busch & Muller IQ-X E:https://www.bumm.de/en/products/e-bike-beleuchtung/parent/164/produkt/164r60ts7-01.html
>>1259012
Usually just squirt some loob onto the chain, spin it through the gears, and wipe. Maybe smelly green degreaser if it's seriously dirty, at which point I also take care of the derailer. I don't ride through mud so I have no idea what cyclocrossers and mountain chads do.
>>
>>1258814
yes, my bike is pretty patrician, thanks.
>>
>>1259215
But you don’t know how to take a picture of it
*regurgitates velominati jokes seriously in an attempt to sound educated*
>>
>>1259216
kek
>>
>>1259059
>Busch & Muller IQ-X E
I like the beam. And I like the fact that it works at 6-60V.
Thanks, I'm buying it.
>>
New to bicycles in general and tires specifically.
I was looking for a commuting bike and I found one with 700c wheels.
While I understand that having a lower profile wheel would be better for the city I can't help but wonder what I'm giving up on if I get that instead of more mountain bike-y wheels.
Would they be acceptable on paved surfaces (similar to a sidewalk)? what about wet surfaces after rain? or dirt roads that are not too harsh (like in a farm).
I really am clueless.
>>
>>1259381
yes
>>
Hello. For my secret santa exchange I have someone who asked for "bicycle stuff. I was thinking of getting some princess helmet or something but I'd like to get something actually useful if possible and would appreciate some tips. I already bought him some other stuff so I'd prefer to spend around $50-60
>>
>>1259402
That seems like a lot to spend on a secret santa.
>>
>>1259419
Well I'd be happy with anything cheaper that's the max I want to spend, I just figure this stuff is expensive. Also this is basically the only gift I buy for anyone all year
>>
>>1259402
If he rides MTB
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STamRLTFbf0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDgTdf7TpAo
otherwise, a dragon dildo
>>
Anyone know of a pump with a REALLY good pressure gauge? My gauge and my pump are shit, I wanna kill two birds with one stone
>>
>>1259399
"yes" as in "they'll be okay in the conditions you've mentioned"?
>>
File: gauge.jpg (23 KB, 400x400)
23 KB
23 KB JPG
>>1259443
>get cheap pump
>get nice gauge
Sets exact pressure super easily.
>>
>>1259381
Knobby MTB tires suck on the road, wet or dry. The knobs are meant to bite into dirt. When they can't bite, they bend, and that makes handling go straight to shit. Get slicks.

The performance of road tires depends on width and construction. The wider you go, the more cushy the tire will be. 700x32c to 40c is a really good range for all-round usage. Under 30c is the racier end of the spectrum. You can still use those offroad (I've bombed down singletrack on a bike with Veloflex Record 25s) but it can get a little sphincter clenching.

Panaracer Gravelkings are really good for road (wet or dry), and light dirt. They aren't going to be as fast as a good dedicated racing tire (there I'd go for Veloflex anything or Conti GP4K SII, especially now that the latter are on deep discount due to the GP5K coming along), but they're going to be more cushy. The only problem is that they only go up to 28c. Above that, there are the Gravelking SKs, but they are dedicated dirt tires, and the sideknobs make cornering on pavement suck.

For slicks at 32c and above, I like Challenge Strada Bianca, Panaracer Pasela PTs, and Schwalbe Marathon Supremes. The Mara Supremes have better puncture resistance at the cost of a harsher ride and less handling feel. The PTs give up some puncture resistance, particularly on the sidewalls, for better ride and handling. The Strada Biancas go even further in that direction.

One tire to avoid if you're concerned about wet traction is Continental Gatorskins. They're ok-ish puncture-resistant racy tires for dry riding (if you don't mind the compromised ride feel) but in my experience they're dangerously bad in the wet.
>>
>>1259402
>>
File: littlegrippa.jpg (73 KB, 800x800)
73 KB
73 KB JPG
>>1259402
A nice bidon with a cool graphic or bikeshop on it is a nice gift too because it's good to replace them semi regularly
>>
>>1259552
I think my answer was better
>>1259447
yep
>>
File: SotoWindmaster.jpg (19 KB, 800x800)
19 KB
19 KB JPG
>>1259402
https://sotooutdoors.com/product/windmaster-stove/
these are really nice if you want something expensive
>>
>>1259402
Tires and wear items. $50-60 can get a decent set of tires.
>>1259552
Tire-tism , solid choices though. Panaracers seem hot this year especially gravelkings but if I didn't just go replace my Corsas again, I'd go gravelking non-sk just to try them.
>>
>>1259571
the fuck does that have to do with bikes
>>
File: 4245665798_a199b8cdb3_o.jpg (2.23 MB, 4798x3074)
2.23 MB
2.23 MB JPG
>>1259584
it's touring gear
>>
File: kamen bell.jpg (244 KB, 1600x1069)
244 KB
244 KB JPG
>>1259402
If someone got me this Kamen Rider bicycle bell I'd be over the moon.
>>
Can I seemlessly wrap a handlebar with 4 rolls of tape?
I got some scott wrap around bars that are longer than most normal ones and want to wrap it in the same style of tape. I have 4 rolls and 1 is slightly too short to completely cover one side of the bars
>>
>>1259552
>>1259381

>Schwalbe Supremes. The Mara Supremes have better puncture resistance at the cost of a harsher ride and less handling feel

everyone seems to forget that the Supremes are a more puncture-resistant, worse-handling version of regular Schwalbe Marathons (green-guard). they come in 32 width. Usually people get Supremes if there are goat-heads (thorny seeds) where they live, or the like.

just get the regular ones otherwise.
>>
>>1259589
"brring-brring" bells have a clapper that rattles slightly whenever the bike is in motion which is maddeningly irritating.
>>
>>1258865
Same guy as this post.
I visited the store again and asked him some questions about it, I didn't find out anything new about the bike.
I got to hold it so I know the frame is aluminum and I was reaffirmed in my belief that he is a nice old man, he put up with my questions like a champ and was generally much more eager to help than the other stores I've visited.
I asked him what the brand was and he said 'active', according to him it's an American company that produces it's bikes in China, naturally I couldn't find anything about it.
I brought up to him the fact I couldn't find any mention of it online and he said that getting an online presence is expensive so small companies don't do it. (I kind of don't buy it, but I think it's plausible he genuinely believes it, he's an old man who has no internet presence himself, and all records of him online are from 3rd parties).
Speaking of those third party sites some people commented he was great, some people commented he was alright but expensive (which is peculiar because the bikes are cheap and the helmets and kryptonite locks were priced the same as in other stores around) and several accounts said he was unhelpful and had no reason to "be there", practically verbatim. (they all had exactly this one review in each account so I suspect it was someone being salty who made several accounts).
I finished my visit with him saying "I guarantee you will enjoy this bike", which is an empty statement from anyone else, but since then I've developed something similar to a crush for him (not in the actual romantic sense, but in the 'he seems so nice I don't want to believe he's lying') so I really want to believe him.
>>
File: blessed image.jpg (548 KB, 2012x2048)
548 KB
548 KB JPG
>>1259746
My question is this, is there any hope for a bike to be decent if it's not listed anywhere at all online (neither locally, in English or even in AliExpress)? or should it be an immediate deal breaker for anyone with a brain?
I don't need the best, I want a bike for 1 hour commutes at most, I just need it to not disintegrate while I'm riding it and for it to be acceptably comfortable.

Sorry for writing a wall of text, have a blessed image in return for your patience with me.
>>
Two years ago I got myself a road bike thinking I'd start using it in my city to get to and from work and what have you, but after just a few months I got fucking fed up. I've not rode it in a year now and feel guilty as shit and I'd like to start cycling again, just not on the road.
How fucking retarded would it be to use it not exactly off-road, but on quite rough cycle paths?
>>
>>1259766
you'll be alright, how wide are your tires? I off-road my road bike with 28s all the time, nothing super serious but some light gravel and woods paths are extra comfy.

>but after just a few months I got fucking fed up
this is really the problem with young padawans riding everywhere, all the time. They go in too deep, burn out, then never ride again. Take it slow, ride for recreation at first to build up strength/stamina, find new routes, explore the weekends, and most importantly, enjoy the ride.
>>
weekend warrior here. not real knowledgeable about cycling.

i bought a really thin saddle after riding a very cushioned one for years. it hurts my bum.

did i fall for a meme? or is a thin saddle going to be worth it?
>>
>>1259774
Your shorts are bunching up. Road saddles should be used with lycra.
>>
>>1259774
if it's bruised your sitbones, then you just need to harden the fuck up and break in your ass.
>>
>>1259774
If it hurts like a bruise, stick with it and after a week so you get used to it and it won’t hurt.

If it is chafing and causing blisters or open wounds your clothing could be an issue and the saddle prob doesn’t fit.

If your junk is hurting or tingling or going numb the saddle is not fitting or not adjusted right

Generally a thinner saddle will be way more comfortable in the long run compared to a fat cushioned one. Though I once had a thin Speciallized saddle that always just felt like was sitting on a 2x4
>>
>>1259774
wear lycra bib shorts w/o panties and use buttr or dz nutz or ASSos or butt shield or sprotique or whatever to protect your gay nuts against chaving
>>
>>1259662
you're talking about pluses m8
supremes are like half the weight
>>
>>1259747
people ride bikes with no name frames all the time. Generally what matters is that you have shimano gearing and at least a 2x8 shimano setup.
>>
>>1259746
also looking online Activ bikes are a brand of bike sold at sporting goods stores made by Raleigh. So a low tier MTB.

What is the price?
>>
>>1259830
Oh, could I please get a link to that?
equivalent to 334.5 dollars as of today.
>>
>>1259841
Dude just google "activ raleigh" and look at the images
If it's one of those, it's trash
Why can't you just snap a goddamn picture
>>
>>1259852
unfortunately it's not that, the one I saw said "active" with an e.
>Why can't you just snap a goddamn picture
I genuinely didn't think of it then
>>
>>1259774
Assuming you're wearing bike shorts, I'll bet the saddle is too narrow. Get measured up properly at a place like specialized and get a saddle 20mm wider than the width of your bones.
You can't ignore your 3 contact points on the bike if you want to be comfortable and fast, start with the saddle and possibly gloves and clipless pedals and shoes if you start to get more serious.
>>
>>1259852
It's the time of the year to buy bikes online. Dont take a flyer on a bike you cant even id.

Check out dimondback if you really want a mtb for cheap that is decent
>>
>>1259905
Seconding this, diamondback in particular too since they have an easy to access corporate discount last I checked (few months ago) to save you some cash.
>>
>>1259827
the ones on my bike just say marathon.
no plus, no supreme.
>>
I'm sure I'm not the first non-/n/ to ask this here, but I'm thinking about getting a bicycle, less about sports and more about just mobility in the city.
Folding bikes are tempting to me, and the pros are obvious (can bring the inside almost anywhere and can bring them into buses and trains), but what are the drawbacks?
Say I wanted to ride one for a solid 40 minutes, would the difference between that and a regular bike be very noticable?
What am I giving up by choosing a folding bike with say, 20 inch wheels, as opposed to a cheap, decent mountain bike?
>>
>>1260165
My take on folding bike is that they are going to be a pain and worse than another bike in nearly every way except for when you're not riding it. I prioritize my experience of riding when getting a bike. If the hassle of storing / stashing your bike is one of the most important parts of having a commuter then go for a folding bike, but otherwise I would go with the 90's rigid meme.
>>
>>1260173
Obviously it's going to be worse than a regular bike, I'm no bike man but it's obvious, smaller wheels mean I'm less stable and can handle less bumps along the way, also no form of suspensions and fewer gears than is acceptable now.
HOWEVER, the question is not if it's worse, but if it is, on it's own, manageable, and up to what limit?
I'm not a sportsman, or even do sports, man, I just want to improve my mobility despite having a license because I don't REALLY need a car, and bringing it with me on a bus, train or classroom/work/home is a big plus.
With a full sized bike I can only use very specific buses that have luggage compartments or whatever the right name for them in English is.
>>
>>1260175
>smaller wheels mean I'm less stable and can handle less bumps along the way, also no form of suspensions and fewer gears than is acceptable now.
Doesn't sound like these are things you need to concern yourself with at all. I don't really have any experience with folding bikes so I can't offer any legit advice, but it sounds like you want a folding bike so I suggest you get a folding bike and evaluate how well it suits you yourself.

Alternatively, get a proper bike and skip the bus altogether. It depends very much in where and how you live whether that's viable.
>>
>>1258419
My boss was telling me about Zwift and how it's really good but a large investment to start.
What do you need?
>>
>>1260337
>Zwift
Your boss is a moron
>>
>>1260337
All you really need is a power meter, dumb trainer, and a way to pick up bluetooth or ANT+ depending on your PM and Zwift device. I do it this way and it's okay. But a smart trainer is really the best way to do it, those apparently change the resistance to match the simulated terrain and you don't need a PM on your bike.
>>
Complete newbie here

What should I look for when buying a mountain bike (on a budget) ?
>>
File: 1268917788605.jpg (22 KB, 480x360)
22 KB
22 KB JPG
>>1260346
A second job because spending less than $1k will turn you off of the hobby.
>>
>>1260337
>zwift
HTFU and go outside
>>1260346
you can have plenty of fun with a Rockhopper or something.
>>
File: raleigh.jpg (143 KB, 800x600)
143 KB
143 KB JPG
so i had this 26' hardtail for about 15 years. nothing too fancy but i've used and abused it in mountain trails, daily commuting, touring and bikepacking trips and even some moderate dirt jumps.
i love it but i'd like to move to a better MTB ride, so i'm buying myself something nice this summer.

i was thinking on selling this old one but nowadays no one is paying too much for an abused 26er, so maybe it can be converted to something like a gravel/beater ride that i can use everyday or in trips, flatter trails, etc.

i was thinking on changing the fork to a rigid one (the actual suspension one is busted so i have to change it anyway), the flatbar for some drops (fucked geometry, i guess) or maybe a jones type loop bar, and the wheels for some more spiked rims and thiner tyres.

is it feasable or too stupid?
>>
File: muh buzz.jpg (1.73 MB, 3840x2560)
1.73 MB
1.73 MB JPG
>>1260357
I have a bike kind of like that and it's fun to use for fucking around on basic singletrack and underbiking on technical stuff. It's an old Novara Buzz that I slapped a bunch of Zee + XT shit onto. It is way too small for me, but that makes it more interesting. It's very nimble. Sucks fuck uphill.
>>
>>1260361
yes, something like that.

i'm a complete casual in technical terms. i mean, i ride a lot but i don't even know the relations on my speeds. kill me if you want, but i just recently knew that the relations for route and mtb were different and important.

so i don't know what could i change more that the bars, wheels and fork, and if those changes are really relevant.
>>
>>1260357
I'd keep the flat bars. Replace the fork with an "suspension offset" fork.

I would put the widest set of tires you can on it. With the white wheels I'd look for a set that has whitewalls.

I still use my old starter MTB as well. You have to resist the urge to sink too much money into it.
>>
>>1260344
>But a smart trainer is really the best way to do it,

except they are literally 800 dollars.
>>
>>1260391
I said best not cheapest.
>>
>>1260165
also consider a true city comfort/hybrid bike that has wide gearing. Something like the Raleigh Detour 2 or the Trek FX are both beloved bikes that are fuckin' chill to ride around.

Raleigh 400, Trek 500
>>
>>1260392
I know but at that price I could literally buy a Salsa Fargo from my LBS and have a Claris gravel grinder to go with my roadie...
>>
>>1260394
I don't understand how that is relevant at all.
>>
>>1260390
>"suspension offset" fork
as i said, i'm a dork when it comes to technicalities (and english is not my language) so could you clarify this, please? you mean a rigid

>With the white wheels I'd look for a set that has whitewalls.
the problem with this is that rims and spokes are really busted and i'm thinking on making long trips with this bike, so i'll change the whole wheels. i want some rims with more spokes, just in case some brake and i'm far from a bikeshop.

>I would put the widest set of tires you can on it
yes. i'm thinking in a not so knobby type of tyres, not for mountain trail but for gravel.
>>
>>1260395
With a mtb or gravel bike you can ride most of the winter.
>>
>>1260414
I still don't understand what relevance that has to Zwift. I get it, you would never spend money on a smart trainer. There are people who will and there are people who do. Anon asked about Zwift, not how many bikes you can buy for $800.
>>
Is bying a modern alu CX bike for commuting and general leisure riding (i.e. not cyclocross racing) a bad idea?
>>
>>1260415
You can buy about three quarters of a bike for $800.
>>
Planning on going tubeless.

How long does the sealant last? How does it last during winter storage?
Do you have to clean out the tyre at some point?

Going to use Stan's
>>
>>1260416
cx/gravel

so long as it's got mounts for for rack and fender then yes, it's excellent

>>1260428
Sealant longevity depends on a few things, different types last longer than others and I think heat dries it out faster.

IIRC stan's is one of the longer lasting ones, probably a few months between top-offs. I've never personally bothered cleaning out the tyre except when changing tyres.
>>
>>1260352
>HTFU and go outside
Whilst I appreciate the concept and I do try to, it's -20c outside and it takes half an hour to prep.
Also, there are zero hills in my city, Inner Mongolia is a flat land.
>>
>>1260432
>so long as it's got mounts for for rack and fender then yes
That's the thing with modern cx bikes. They don't.
>>
>>1260452
hence "/gravel", or all road, adventure, randonneur, etc

There's lots of bikes that fill a fairly similar niche these days that often have more practical features.
>>
>>1260453
Yeah, but I kind of fell for this one cyclocross bike. I like the colour and the way it looks.
>>
>>1260454
well, if you like the bike and it makes you want to ride it that's important too

you don't NEED need those things (you can always wear a backpack and use clipon fenders or just get wet) and plenty of people seem to get by without them but I personally consider them a requisite for commuting.
>>
>>1260455
I'm more worried about the frame material and the geometry.
>>
>>1260456
I don't see why you want a racey bike but then wide tires as well.
>>
>>1260465
Not him, but a road bike with fatter knobby tires is super fun if you live in a place where there are lots of different kinds of riding available nearby and want to enjoy the ride to the technical trails just as much as the time you spend on the trails. Or just for riding fast on gravel.
>>
>>1260491
yes but i wouldn't assume that 'commuting and general leisure riding' means that
>>
>>1260465
>>1260503
wide tyres are great for just general comfort, smooth out the bumps (especially if you carry a load), and give a bit of innate puncture resistance too.
>>
File: 23874736.jpg (29 KB, 474x474)
29 KB
29 KB JPG
>Clogs your valves
What's a good tube auto sealant?
>>
File: index.jpg (6 KB, 270x186)
6 KB
6 KB JPG
Are gear shifters universal? Can I put a nice shifter on a piece of shit dunlop?
The trigger shifters look nice, is there a go-to chink shit one?
>>
>>1260514
It’s like you’re not even having the same conversation, just regurgitating stuff you’ve read online.
>>
>>1260465
I take that to mean that it's a bad idea.
>>
>>1260524
>Are gear shifters universal?
Indexed shifters are nowhere near universal, some shifters are compatible with some dérailleurs and cassettes and some aren't.

You'll want to look up Uncle Sheldon about the combination you want to use and see if it works. If you're replacing a shifter with one with the same number of 'clicks' then it MIGHT work but it could easily not work too, it's to do with the gap between the 'clicks' also needing to be the same.
>>
Tire question for you MTB bros, I recently got myself a fairly entry level MTB (Giant Fathom 2) and it came specced with Maxxis Ikon 2.2's. I don't feel like they're cutting for me when the trails are wet, which is often where I live, so I find myself slipping around on them more then I like. I know a lot of people say you shouldn't dump too much money on an entry level bike, but would it be a noticeable difference in grip going from the Ikons (more XC oriented) to more downhill oriented tires in the 2.5 range?
>>
>>1260415
>Anon asked about Zwift
Indeed.

I work from home in Inner Mongolia and winter is harsh here, I just end up avoiding going outside all winter. Also, a complete flatland and chaotic traffic (and sheets of ice and piles of snow on the bike lanes in winter, the street sweepers just scrape it off the car lanes and leave it piled in the bike lane until a truck comes to collect it) all contribute to my losing fitness over winter.
My boss (in Australia) is a tri-guy and was telling me about how his peers all use zwift for training, even though he actually has bike paths and lanes and big hills that he can ride hard in, it seems worth looking into.
I don't have a power-meter, I suppose I could get one but a smart trainer seems a better option. $800 isn't out of my reach at all, provided it's actually as good as claimed. My bike computer isn't ANT/BT either so that will need replacing but I'm sure I can do that cheaply in China. If I go for a decent Chinese brand, it's probably going to be a bit cheaper. If I need anything foreign then it will be even more expensive.
>>
Recently bent my front wheel in a crash, and I want to try truing it myself. I've got a spoke wrench, is there a good way to do this without buying a truing stand? And what are good tutorials for truing in general?
>>
>>1260656
If you're going to spend entire months on Zwift a smart trainer would probably be the best route. I'm not 100% sure your bike computer needs to be ANT or BT compatible, just whatever computer you have the Zwift software installed on needs to be able to pick up a signal from the trainer. Most laptops are good to go with bluetooth, if you need ANT+ you can get a USB dongle for pretty cheap.
>>
>>1260661
You can 'kind of' do it without a truing stand, some things might not be as accurate. You definitely need to understand how a truing stand is used first, if you've never used one, hit up youtube and watch people using them first.

Put some zip ties on the forks and angle them around towards the rim and trim them so that they're slightly larger than required, then angle them forward or back as required to nearly touch the rim.
You can use rim brakes to do the same thing in a pinch, you can also leave the zip ties there (just point them back along the bike frame) in case you find yourself wanting to adjust it on the road.
Then spin the wheel, you're watching for the space between the zip tie and the rim as it moves in and out.
You also need to watch the vertical (radial) truing too, see how the top of the wheel moves in and out as it turns, you can end up moving the centre of the wheel out of true-centre if you're not careful, this is also visible at the rims but not as obvious.
Then, you need to watch that you don't move the whole wheel too much left or right (dishing), that's harder to detect using the zip ties but it's also slightly less common to get wrong. You can probably just use a ruler and measure both sides to make sure they're about the same. This doesn't have to be perfect but I'll let someone else tell you about tolerances here because I don't really know this last part well. Check Sheldon too of course.
>>
>>1260662
>If you're going to spend entire months on Zwift a smart trainer would probably be the best route
Yeah, I can see that. I'm just a bit disappointed that I'll have to be removing the back wheel all the time and maybe need to buy a cassette just for the trainer?
My current bike computer is the cheapest possible thing so upgrading that is no problem, smart trainers seem about the same price here in china though there are some cheap ones that may or may not be good enough.
It seems like the Chinese ones are all OneLap/Zwift compatible.
https://item.jd.com/34316455320.html#crumb-wrap

When I was looking for trainers, I saw a tonne of Ant+ USB dongles, that should be no problem.
>>
>>1260665
I would disagree and advise you to spend a little less ($500) on a power meter and just use a non smart trainer. The smart trainer will only be able to be used for training indoors, while the power meter will be good for Zwift as well as any training/riding you do outside the rest of the year. The automatically adjustable resistance is kind of a gimmick, and is not even used at all if you are using Zwift's workouts.
>>
I bought a wheelset a really long time ago and never actually got to use them. I'd like to use this wheelset but it comes with quick release and i need a solid axle, i tried using a solid axle from another wheel and tried to use the cones that came with the wheelset, they felt a little loose so i stopped doing it. Is it possible to convert from quick release to solid axle? I can do the job myself i just need to know i'd be able to find the parts at all.
>>
>>1260700
By cones do you mean the endcaps? Were they loose in the wheel or around the axle? Keep in mind there's like 3 different TA diameters they might not be the same.

But yes, you can do that.
>>
>>1260661
Previous anon said most of what I'd contribute, except to second the recommendation of the Sheldon Brown page on wheel truing.

Also worth keeping in mind that if the crash damage bent the rim itself, or if the wheel had previous tension issues exacerbated by the crash, you may be limited in how much repair you can achieve through truing, so don't be too hard on yourself if you find your first experience to be a real struggle.
>>
>>1260704
>if the crash damage bent the rim itself, or if the wheel had previous tension issues exacerbated by the crash, you may be limited in how much repair you can achieve through truing
Oh yeah, when done as a repair, truing has limits. Sometimes you just need a new rim.
You can do a fair bit with truing though so it's definitely worth trying.
>>
>>1260703
By cones i mean pic related
>>
File: axle-set.jpg (53 KB, 849x215)
53 KB
53 KB JPG
>>1260719
whoops
>>
>>1260656
>I work from home in Inner Mongolia and winter is harsh here,

Damn man. You've got to promise to post in Daily Ride Thread when it finally thaws. /n/ needs to see mongolian roadie culture and roadside attractions
>>
File: 20151115_162754.jpg (1.86 MB, 3264x1836)
1.86 MB
1.86 MB JPG
>>1260754
Inner Mongolia is actually a part of China, it's an autonomous region which is just a Province but with legal guarantees for the ethnic minority.

I've posted a few pics before, the mountains are really nice. The roads in town are chaotic and when I've tried to ride hard on the highway, I got a broken collarbone for my efforts. Nobody drives that fast because you can't really take anything for granted. I don't get so many of the near misses that I used to get every day in the west though.

I have ridden in Mongolia too though, pic related is from a trip up there with a folding bike.
>>
>>1260700
Did they feel loose in the bearings or loose on the axle itself? Be specific if you want a useful diagnosis. There are a few different threads for hub axles, you may not have bought the correct one.
>>
>>1260700
Yes. Buy the whole axle/cone/cup/bearings set though. Also I recommend loose bearings over caged
>>
>>1260777
The cone felt loose in the axle, as oppossed to its original quick release axle.
>>1260785
Thanks, i'll go to my LBS tomorrow and see if they have the parts i need.
>>
>>1260822
This may be a dumb question but why didn't you just... tighten it? Cup-and-cone hubs are often pretty finicky to perfectly dial in
>>
>>1260849
anon probably doesn't have cone spanners or know that this is a thing
>>
>>1260663
>>1260704
>>1260709
Thanks a lot. I'll read up and try it with zip ties on the weekend.
>>
>>1260720
is this some kind of old technology
>>
File: 1541655931023.jpg (57 KB, 453x600)
57 KB
57 KB JPG
Hi. I'm looking to buy a bike but I don't know what type. I'm pretty rough with riding, hoping onto street curbs, travelling down stony roads - the wheel usually takes a beating. I don't feel too comfortable raised high off the ground, I prefer to be closer to the ground to quell anxiety if I need to stop with my two feet on the ground, I feel more in control. I want a feeling of security in the construction, I don't want it to feel thin, flimsy or that it might fail as I'm bulleting down a hill. But having said that I don't want it too bulky as I will be cycling long distances.

Suggestions? Budget: less than $400.
>>
>>1261078
You're at the whim of what's available on your local craigslist at that price, if any of your criteria are real.
$400 does not get you a new bike with strong wheels or anything.

Post it & your height and i'll make some recs if you want.
>>
>>1261083
I don't have a bike currently. 5'11".
>>
>>1261083
anon probably isn't 'weighing off' the bike properly to prevent fucking their wheels up so they're assuming their 'shit wheels' are the reason for their inadequate handling skills
>>
>>1261085
yes i understand that. if you want a durable bike then you'll have to buy a used one off craigslist. It's a good idea anyway.

$400 won't get you a durable new bike, it will get you something extremely cheaply made if you insist on buying new and the only advice i'd give is to avoid anything with any suspension.
>>
>>1261086
well yeah probably but it is also pretty easy to damage shitty wheels
>>
>>1261089
What's the minimum budget then for a modest version of my request?
>>
>>1261093
more like 600

I don't see why you're adverse to buying something used. Would you buy a new car?
>>
>>1261078
90s rigid mtb
>>
>>1261097
yeah basically this
>>
File: $_86.jpg (196 KB, 1024x768)
196 KB
196 KB JPG
>>1261096
I'm not adverse to buying used! I never said that. I'll probably opt for buying second hand due to my restricted budget. But I just want a template to follow. I wish there was a website that allowed you to find the bike best suited to your preferences by selecting criteria, or something. For me - as someone who isn't knowledgeable about the scope of bikes to choose from, it is hard to know where to begin or if it's possible to make an intelligent choice because there's just so many, you'll never make sense of it.

My previous bike was the Carerra Subway 2. Bought it twice for €450 around 2010 and it was stolen on both occasions. Thick wheels, you could jump off and on fairly quick, black colour suits my tastes. But I think I can do better than aim for this again. Especially seeing that this was just arbitrarily chosen from a limited selection in a local outdoors store.
>>
>>1261097
Might it have a worn transmission which swapping will cost twice the price of the bike? Or are there 90s bikes in good conditions?
>>
>>1261105
It might, but 6-7 speed freewheels and chains are dirt cheap so it wouldn't really matter. You'd have to replace them eventually anyway
>>
Do you get cat-called when driving?
I had a teenage girl with her friends yell something at me from a distance. Something like "I like your style!" I also had college girls in a car yell something like, "Race! Race! Race!" as I drove past, and a passenger yell something at me when a sports car went past me.
>>
>>1261192
Not really cat-calls, but when I'm out for a long ride in full attire, I often get encouraging (though still annoying) beeps, and sometimes people will yell race-related stuff like "go! you're winning!" or stuff like that.
I also got called a fag by some poor fat people the other day
>>
I have a '93 Stumpjumper and I have no other way of explaining this, but I noticed that as I ride that the throw of the shifter (original) would get... longer. Usually, I just have to push my thumb a bit on the little lever to feel some resistance and initiate a shift for the RD, but a lot of the times now I feel it go past that point of resistance and I wouldn't be able to shift to go to a larger cog. What gives?
>>
I'm thinking about buying a used 60 cm CAAD 12 from my boss, but I'm about 5'11-6'1 so I'm wondering if it'll fit me of if it'll be to big.
>>
>>1261369
I’m 6’3” and ride a 58 CAAD12 and I think I could have gone with a 56 if I really wanted to. These frames have a fair amount of stack.
>>
>>1261370
So how badly might it fit me because it's a really good deal, but I'd be really annoyed if it didn't fit.
>>
>>1261372
I don’t know, without knowing your saddle height and what stack and reach you usually ride it’s impossible to say. >>1260923 is mine, I have a fairly long torso and saddle height is a hair over 80 cm
>>
>>1261372
You could make it work by taking out all the spacers and getting a shorter stem and setting the seat height as needed.. Normally you'd ride a 58 or 56.

You are gonna have to go and take it for a spin to find out if it is doable.
>>
>>1261369
You'll be fine, unless you have freakishly long reach. You may need to slam the stem or go for a longer one if you can't otherwise get enough drop.
>>
>>1261369
you should measure yourself more accurately
I'm 5'11" and ride 55-56
If you were 6'1" you'd want a 58, maybe.
60 is definitely going to be too large. I know how you feel but it's not meant to be anon.
>>
>>1261105
Nope. Chainwheels & rear sprocket cassettes can be obtained cheap as chips.
>>
File: IMG_20181204_183201.jpg (3.36 MB, 4608x2592)
3.36 MB
3.36 MB JPG
Can someone identify this frame? 27,2 seatpost, 70mm bb, 130mm dropouts, alloy, two bottle cage mounts, internal rear brake cable routing
>>
>>1261359
Stretched cable
>>
>>1261460
Looks like a decent aluminum frame from the 90's, Diamant was a big German brand.
>>
File: image.png (1.23 MB, 960x720)
1.23 MB
1.23 MB PNG
>>1261111
>>1261455
I'm asking this as I wanted to buy such a bike for commuting, but the one I found had a worn crankset, as it seems to me, and the seller stopped answering to my messages. Then I thought if it would be worth buying this bike and fixing it up, and my thoughts were NO. Now I'm thinking of buying a new mtb and swap the original knobby tires to slicker ones. Please give me some advice, I don't know what to do
>>
>>1261494
Those chainrings have plenty of life left, you can find used square taper cranks on eBay with pretty fresh rings for under $40 all the time for when they do look like shark fins
>>
>>1261494
Honestly that looks more neglected than worn, probably needs a nice brushing and it'd be good to go
90s rigid MTBs are a meme for a good reason, I have one as a rain beater and it's lots of fun, I slapped the fattest slicks I could fit and run them at low pressure when I want a comfy stroll, or higher when I gottagofast.
I say do it. If you post your local craigslist we can help you find something.
>>
>>1261500
I'm afraid shipping will cost a lot of money. I'm unfortunately from Russia, where bikes yet are not considered a serious transportation mean, so it's very difficult to find good bike for city and spare parts for bikes like I wanted to buy.
>>1261501
I don't know what condition are 90s bikes in America, but I think this I found in my place is not in a very good condition.
> If you post your local craigslist
I'm not from America, unfortunately. On that russian sale advertisements site I can found nothing but cheap shitbikes or expensive new, sporty mtbs and road bikes. Another problem is my height of 190 cm, most bikes are too small for me.

I'm still doubtful...i dunno what to do
>>
>>1261511
>I'm afraid shipping will cost a lot of money. I'm unfortunately from Russia, where bikes yet are not considered a serious transportation mean, so it's very difficult to find good bike for city and spare parts for bikes like I wanted to buy.

Doesn't matter you could easily pay 25 euro for shipping and it would still be a cheap fix/upgrade.

>I'm still doubtful...i dunno what to do

Why don't you look into Merida bikes? They sell bikes everywhere but North America, make many different reasonably priced models and even their high end stuff is cheaper than most.

It is a good enough bike company that people ride Merida bikes in the Tour De France. The last guy to win the Tour who wasn't a British person rides a Merida bike (Vincenzo Nibali).

Merida owns 50% of Specialized so they don't compete against themselves in the USA.
>>
>>1261527
I always thought Merida was a pleb brand.
>>
>>1260416
Bump. Hoping for some more oppinions.
>>
>>1261561
It's a great idea you should buy it, especially since you have not even said what you specifically plan to use it for or what bike it even is.
>>
>>1261562
>It's a great idea you should buy it
Stopped reading there
>>
>>1261550
Merida varies from solid sporting goods store tier bikes to race level carbon road bikes costing thousands.

Merida has always been a price cpncious brand like Giant is. For example their TDF bike is a 3500 dollar rig compared to 10k for a Pinnarello.

It's one of those bike companies whose 500 dollar front shock mtb is pretty good.

He is looking for a bike that can do a solid 10k commute over shit roads and he doesnt want a roadie.
>>
>>1261564
So you had already made up your mind and just wanted anonymous confirmation? Weak.
>>
>>1261567
Kind of, I guess. We hear what we want to hear.
>>
>>1261467
My guess is that it's due for replacement? Thanks
>>
>>1261612
Not him but it could also be a squished cable housing or ferrule, I'd inspect the whole cabling and replace what's necessary
>>
>>1261612
just a tension adjustment. New cables always stretch and need to be readjusted.
>>
>>1261613
>>1261623
Thanks /n/ will check it out.
>>
?
>>
>>1261629
weird
Direct pull spokes are designed to prevent breakages at the J-bend traditional spokes are prone to
my guess is it's asymmetrical because it's a disc wheel and can't be radially laced on the brake side because of torque from the brake
>>
File: IMG_20181205_002206.jpg (817 KB, 1564x1564)
817 KB
817 KB JPG
>>1261634
Dunno much about the world of wheels, I've just never seen wheels like this, just spokes that are hinged into a disc. Now I'm super interested in specialty wheels
>>
>>1261639
Also it didn't occur to me that the gold one was for use with a disc brake
>>
>>1261642
>>1261639
well it doesn't appear either of these have a rim braking surface
>>
>>1261629
>>1261639
A solution looking for a problem
>>
>>1261650
The dude just told you the problem that these ameliorate
>>
File: g91OQkOxNTA.jpg (168 KB, 960x720)
168 KB
168 KB JPG
>>1261527
> Doesn't matter you could easily pay 25 euro for shipping and it would still be a cheap fix/upgrade.
OK, I didn't really know they were not so expensive. But the question if it is worth buying this old bike (about 230$ if I convert the price from rubles) and fixing it up.
> Why don't you look into Merida bikes?
I'm looking into different brands, but I want to know what type of new bike I should buy. If it would be OK to buy a new modern MTB and put on it slicker tires. Currently I'm thinking of buying the bike on the picture in the 2nd post.
>>
>>
>>1261695
Overpriced
>>1261696
Pile of garbage
>>
>>1261699
So what shall I take?
>>
>>1261639
>>1261642
>>1261643
These specific wheels are for wheelchairs. But yeah, wheels can get pretty crazy and they're fun to learn about.
>>
>>1261711
Ask your Russian friends, you're going to get American responses on an American imageboard.
>>
>>1261716
Unfortunately my russian "friends" are dumb on this problem.
> you're going to get American responses on an American imageboard.
Yes, I'm going. As I noticed, /n/ visitors are more intelligent than those from bikes board of 2ch.hk. The last ones seem to have come from /b/, judging on their behaviour and intelligence.
>>
>>1261711
Sorry but I can't endorse the purchase of either
>>
>>1261716
hmm
>>
>>1258419
need cheap bike
>>
>>1261494
What are your options for used bicycle sales/buying, and for ordering bike components online?
>>
>>1261695
>If it would be OK to buy a new modern MTB and put on it slicker tires.

Just so you know flat bar road bikes exist and were a hot thing about 3-4 years ago. it was the fad before 'gravel bikes' and after 'fixies'.
>>
>>1261765
>it was the fad before 'gravel bikes' and after 'fixies'.
I must have blinked and missed that.
>>
>>1261760
I'm now thinking of buying an "almost new" mtb and order other tires which might be more suitable for riding in the city.
Now I understand all this "90s rigid mtb" topic, in America their average price is 100$, and with all fixings, for less than 200$ you get a reliable bike of quite good quality.
>>
>>1261845
Pfft, if you're a child buying from walmart maybe. Point to one.
>>
>>1260665
I just started out with Zwift as well and bought a Smart trainer (Taxc Neo Smart, they offer discounts on it right now as the successor is about to be launched).
You don't need an ANT+/Bluetooth capable bicycle computer as >>1260662 has pointed out just your PC/laptop needs to be able to connect to your trainer. I'd recommend to additionally buy a heart rate sensor. I don't completely agree with >>1260666 while he certainly has a point regarding the power meter I wouldn't consider the automatically adjustable resistance a "gimmick". It really adds to the authenticity of the ride feel. If you just ride around the map in Zwift and a slight hill or a mountain appears you'll need to shift down to keep your cadence steady (and shift up going down hill). You'll only need to buy a new cassette if you want to switch quickly between the trainer and the normal back wheel. As I won't use my bicycle through the whole winter season I've just mounted the cassette of my back wheel onto the trainer.

Product recommendation: BT dongle: aliexpi . com/W1d ANT+ dongle: aliexpi . com/Bio HRM: aliexpi . com/PRS
>>
File: $_86-2.jpg (270 KB, 1024x768)
270 KB
270 KB JPG
€150 for the Carrera Crossfire 2. Is that a good deal?

I'm this guy btw
>>1261078
>>1261101
>>
>>1261880
ew
>>
File: DSC_1377.jpg (2.4 MB, 3264x2448)
2.4 MB
2.4 MB JPG
This looks like a horror to keep clean. Especially on a cyclocross bike.
>>
i just got a third-hand bike very cheap and thinking about getting a back rack for it. i was gonna buy one made of steel locally, but couldalso buy it online from china for almost half the price. the chink one says "high quality aluminum alloy" though. is there a real difference?
>>
how do I know when my rear cassette needs replacing? I have an 8 speed setup. Shimano or generic chain. Shimano 11-32 in the back.

According to my LBS my chain is stretched to .75 and needs replacing. (no big deal).

I have experienced a bit of chain rub on the inner part of the FD when in the larger sprockets in the back but I don't know if that is just the FD needing slight adjustment or a stretched chain rubbing a bit.

The rear setup is shifting fine. I'm sometimes getting a mis-shift when going from small ring to large ring up front. (again I think this is the result of a stretched chain).

I'm a big guy and I put some force down and got 2100 miles out of this chain.

The rear cassette seems to look fine and shark-toothy (It's a shimano 11-32 8spd, $50).

I heard rear cassettes are something that generally get changed every second chain. Thoughts?

This was my first full season of riding a roadie and I want to be able to keep the bike in cherry shape but I don't want to replace a part if I don't have to.

Is replacing the chain then taking a test ride to see if it is skipping a logical option?
>>
>>1261985
depends how much weight you are going to put on it. a steel rack is going to be heavy. but a chinkstyle aluminum rack might not be beefy enough. If it was the aluminum rack of a US brand id have no issue saying to go with that one.

Steel flexes under heavy load and aluminum snaps so if weight is not an issue then steel would be better. But when is weight never an issue with bikes?
>>
>>1261985
does the chinese one have a max load rating?
>>
>>1261988
25kg, it says
>>
>>1261986
Sounds like all those problems are caused by poor front derailleur adjustment. Although I'm not sure your model has it, you can often "trim" the front derailleur by giving your shifter a small click to work better in outside gears.

You'll know when you need a new cassette, put a new chain on and you'll notice it skipping under load. Two cassettes is probably pretty conservative, especially if you're doing proper maintenance and replacing your chain on time.

Keep in mind the teeth these days are designed with all sorts of varying bits to facilitate smoother shifting, too.

So yeah replace the chain give it a spin. Should be fine.
>>
File: 1464059463015.jpg (37 KB, 600x551)
37 KB
37 KB JPG
Alright this might be a retarded questions, but I bought some Schwalbe Marathons for my H+ Son Archetype wheels, but they're too big. The rims are 700C and the tyre is 32-622. Am I just a retard who can't fit a tyre or is there something I'm missing here?
>>
>>1261995
It sounds like you're a retard who can't fit a tyre but it's really hard to say with such a vague description and no pictures.
>>
>>1261995
that's not a vague description at all.
622 is 700c. They WILL fit. You're just fitting them wrong.
>>
>>1261629
>>1261639

Garbage. Avoid like plague.
>>
>>1261359
As a rule of thumb. 95% of shifting problems are caused by bad/worn out housing and cables. Replace them, adjust and then consider that you have a problem.
>>
>>1261859
> walmart
I'm even not from the US
>>
File: IMG_20181111_140447.jpg (1.34 MB, 1600x1200)
1.34 MB
1.34 MB JPG
>>1261990
I do have "trim" on those claris 2400 era brifters. It will only rub in the biggest 2 or 3 back cogs when running on the 50t up front when trimmed. At the beginning of the season it didnt rub at all when trimmed.

Im going to get that chain replaced and have them adjust the fd. Usually they throw it in the FD adjustment for free. If im skipping under load after the change ill replace the rear 11_32.

Pic is the bike
>>
Currently riding an OTS that's turned out to be to big for me. I want to get back on a fixed gear in a smaller size. What frames do you all recommend that are affordable?
>>
File: crosschain.jpg (31 KB, 880x587)
31 KB
31 KB JPG
>>1262035
>It will only rub in the biggest 2 or 3 back cogs when running on the 50t up front when trimmed
you should just not do that
>>
>>1261989
Id try the chinese one. The steel one is chinese too, just made for a western company.
>>
>>1262039
Fuji feather
>>
>>1261885
ew, what?
>>
File: 20181206_190520.jpg (220 KB, 1200x1200)
220 KB
220 KB JPG
I plan on getting either a trek Roscoe 7 or 8. The 7 has cool fork, the 8 has air fork. Is there a huge difference in the two for a mtb noob.
Both are rock shock judy
>>
>>1262169
*coil fork...durr
>>
>>1262008
>95% of shifting problems
cable stretch is common too and that's just a matter of adjustment and occasionally taking some cable in.
>>
File: home-02.jpg (84 KB, 960x490)
84 KB
84 KB JPG
Does anybody have experience with dedicated ear-warmers/wind noise reducers?
I was looking up how to shield my ears from the cold, when I saw these products that also reduce wind noise.
Slipstreamz vs Cat Ears vs wind-blox vs windfree vs ear bags?
>>
>>1262226
seems pretty autistic anon why not just wear a headband
>>
>>1262227
Wouldn't that affect the fit of the helmet? And I don't want to cover other parts of my head that are not cold.
>>
Get a skullcap and then also wear a buff over the bottom of your ears. Don't buy autistic shit.

>>1262229
>>
File: _c22-38-359_l_1.jpg (60 KB, 1024x820)
60 KB
60 KB JPG
>>1262229
>And I don't want to cover other parts of my head that are not cold.
um, what?
>>
>>1262231
At the temperature range I ride in during winter, only my ears get cold. If I wear something like a skullcap or a headband, then I might sweat unnecessarily.
>>
>>1262226
Get a wool cycling cap, they have flaps that cover your ears. I use merino until it gets fairly well below freezing, but I run hot.

What I need to find is a glove that works for me below freezing. Merino liner + long finger perforated leather cycling glove aren't quite enough. Neoprene can fuck right off. Ski gloves make it impossible to shift and my hands start to fry.
>>
>>1262241
running gloves under your cycling gloves is pretty effective.
>>
File: mavic ksyrium thermo.jpg (79 KB, 787x809)
79 KB
79 KB JPG
>>1262241
I had terrible trouble keeping my hands warm cycling in winter til i got these. Very happy with them. No problems down to -10c (probably work for a little chillier too but it never gets that cold here)
>>
>>1262045
crosschaining is fun desu
>>
>>1262045
>you should just not do that
Why? One should not make a habit of running crossed, but occasional usage of those gears is fine.
>>
Is it true that hydraulic stram brakes are shit or is it just a mayme?
I'm going to have to bleed my rear brake for the second time in 2 years. Bringing it to a shop costs a shit ton and buying the equipment and doing it yourself also costs a shit ton.
What do?
>>
>>1262329
*sram
for fucks sake
>>
>>1261887
i'd just stuff it with that gardeners foam crap, seems like it would fix this well
>>
>>1262294
because it's rubbing
>>
>>1262329
>he fell for the dick brek meme
however, sram being full-spectrum shit is not a meme
>>
>>1258791
This post is so fucking epic
>>
>>1262351
It shouldn't
>>
>>1262329
> buying the equipment and doing it yourself also costs a shit ton.
No it doesn't. Bleed kits are overpriced for sure, but their not objectively all that expensive. If you can afford a bike with hydraulic brakes you should be able to aford a bleed kit. It's certainly much cheaper than paying the shop to do it.
>>
What's an appropriate volume for a trail backpack? Is 6 liters enough?
>>
>>1262493
Hydration or otherwise?
I have a camelbak skyline with supposedly 7L capacity (of which 3 is a water bladder?) and when you fill it up with water it's pretty pokey, but just about enough to fit the essentials. Straps for pads and holsters for snacks definitely help.
>>
>>1262494
I was thinking hydration.
I have a 3 liter pack which fits a bladder and not much else. Although if I skip the bladder and use bidons instead i could fit my lunch in the backpack, i guess.
>>
>>1262498
If you have the bottle mounts that would make sense too, maybe fill the bladder a little and still fit lunch?
>>
>>1262506
I have soooo many bottle cage mounting points. But the water bladder is comfy access.
>>
File: 1538155944681.png (3.22 MB, 1797x1211)
3.22 MB
3.22 MB PNG
Guys I can't find a saddle that fits

My sit bones are 120mm apart and I'm trying various 130-145mm saddles

So far I've tried btwin sport 900
Stock one on my road bike (kinda high tail ish with small perineum slot kind of like charge spoon see pic)
Charge spoon
Specialized power saddle knockoff

And my only complaint is that my dick circulation cuts off after 2 hours on the road or half an hour on the trainer, I don't actually have pain that bad it's just the circulation thing scares me

I'm thinking either one of those wtb high tail saddles or something really wide like the charge ladle? Or maybe my ass actually doesn't like the perineum cutout (I was kind of amazed I still had circulation cut off with the huge cut out of the specialized saddle knockoff)? Or should I take the Brooks pill?

I'm hesitant to go to a bike shop and get fitted and get recommended a $200 saddle without trying it for at least an hour
>>
>>1262519
>>I'm hesitant to go to a bike shop and get fitted and get recommended a $200 saddle without trying it for at least an hour
your bike shop might have demo models you can take home and try if they're cool
>>
>>1262520
I'll ask around
>>
>>1262493
Depends how prepared you want to be, how long of rides you go on, if you ride in coid weather (and need warm clothing in your pack), and what you carry elsewhere (i.e. water in bottle cages, tools in saddlebag, etc.)
I have a 20L backpack that I use for pavement rides and mountain biking, generally plenty of room for warm clothes, tools, tubes etc. I keep water on my bike, the rest goes in the pack
>>1262329
SRAM anything is better than Shimano anything
>>1262226
Ski helmets are nice for cold weather cycling
>>1262229
Thick stuff affects the fit and reduces safety yeah, if you wear something under the helmet it needs to be really thin like a skullcap
>>
>>1261880
Garbage
>>1261078
Kona Dew Plus
Marin Fairfax
GT Tachyon
Trek FX
Specialized Sirrus (Vita if femanon)
Cannondale Bad Boy
Giant Escape

Don't get suspension, it adds weight and you don't need it. Plus suspension on cheap bikes is low quality and doesn't work.
>>
>>1262528
20L sounds like it would be annoyingly large.
>>
>>1260700
I don't see why you wouldn't be able to, but different axles have different threading spacing/pitch. Not all axles are compatible with all cones.
Also, adjusting hubs to get the cones and locknuts at the proper tightness is in my opinion one of the most difficult adjustments to do on a bike. That doesn't mean you can't do it, it just means you might take a while and get stressed your first few times. Use Park Tool or Sheldon Brown to walk you through it.
>>
>>1262532
Not when I'm riding for 10 hours in the middle of winter and need several extra layers of clothing along with my tools and a few spare tubes. For some rides it's barely big enough.
Even during summer when it's much emptier, it doesn't feel annoying.
It really depends on how you ride though. If you're never in a situation where you need a few extra layers of clothes, and your rides are short enough that you can get by just bringing one or two tubes and a few very basic tools, you can absolutely get by with significantly smaller.
>>
>>1262536
So maybe I should go for a 10 or 12 l then.
>>
>>1262530
>garbage
Going to need more than that.
>>
Long story short, I decided to venture building up a frame on my own for the first time to get experience wrenching. Tried to install a Shimano BBR60 bottom bracket to use with a Litepro crankset. Come to discover that there's a huge amount of play in the crank despite the non-drive side crank arm being fully seated and the plastic crank bolt being tightened all the way. The BBR60 does not come with spacers and it's as if the spindle is too long for the BB. Would it be a terrible idea to try spacers even if they originally did not come with them? My goal was to put together a 1x10 drivetrain.
>>
>>1262603
Try loosening the crank pinch bolts and removing the plastic bolt then giving the non drive crank a couple good whacks with a mallet while supporting the other side. Then tighten it all back up and see if that doesn't fix it.
>>
>>1262169
If money isn't an issue and your just wondering if the 8 is worth the extra dosh I'd say yes, get the 8. An air fork is worth the step up in price, not to mention the other upgrades you get between the 7 and the 8.
>>
>>1262603
Usually it's the crankset that comes with the necessary spacers for any given BB shell width (at least Shimano cranksets), not the BB. So yes, you most likely need a couple of spacers.
>>
I've been looking at titanium XC frames. I've noticed that most don't have tapered head tubes, which is a big problem for fork compatibility. I understand that titanium is harder to work than other frame materials. What I don't understand is why bikes that must use straight head tubes would ever use 1 1/8" head tubes rather than 1 1/2" head tubes. Since 1 1/2" head tube to 1 1/8" steerer tube adapters exist this would allow you to use any fork you want, instead of limiting you to the small handful of models designed to support legacy frames.

Is it purely a matter of weight or aesthetics? Is there some problem with those adapters? Could there be some other reason not do to this?
>>
>>1261880
Carrera Crossfire 2 or this Raleigh Airlite. Both for €150 (includes travel to collect price). Which one?
>>
>>1262519
LBS's have 'tester' saddles you can try out. High end saddle companies that sell online have 30 day no-questions asked refunds.

Get one with a 'taint cutout everything else is just old tech in my opinion.
>>
If I want to slap my backpack on a back rack while riding, should I get a bungee net or a bungee cord?
>>
Is there any point having saddle bags on a bike if I never use them
>>
>>1263019
A net works much better.
>>
>>1263048
What kind of stupid question is that
>>
>>1262870
Neither, you mongoloid. Up your budget or call it quits and save more money.
>>
>>1262519

wtf kind of shifters does that bike have?
>>
>>1262825
Litespeed uses 44 mm head tubes. What sort of China shit have you been browsing?
>>
File: 81325910.jpg (141 KB, 800x800)
141 KB
141 KB JPG
What chain oil should I use.
I have silicon, molly, motor oil, "no chukka chain lube".
>>
So I'm on a tight budget and my road bike is my only mode of transportation and exercise. I have been using a crappy old Shimano r500 wheelset of which I'm the second owner. They have been out of true and wobbly since the day I got them and no mechanic has been able to true it. What's the cheapest way to solve this? Can I just buy a set of 20h rims from AliExpress and lace them to the old hubs? What about some alexrims with the same hole count? Thanks in advance.
>>
I never lubed my bike. when I got it back from the bike shop, I think they lubed it, because it was much quieter. However, it became noisy again after just several short drives. Should I lube it? I thought lube was supposed to last much longer than that?
>>
>>1263175
Your rims might be bent but have you also considered that the mechanics that have worked on the wheel might be awful?
>What's the cheapest way to solve this?
Buy a new set of r500s, they're only like $120.
>>
>>1262870
please go to the /bbg/ and leave the /bqg/
>>
>>1263176
Depends what lube you use, what conditions you ride, all sorts of things.

You should clean it then relube it, yes that would be a good idea.
>>
File: 1111.jpg (1.68 MB, 3264x2448)
1.68 MB
1.68 MB JPG
I got a used bike a while ago and it has a really worn down chain that needs to be replaced. However, I'm not sure if the cassette and chainrings need replacing as well. Any advice on this? Pic related.
>>
File: 2222.jpg (1.39 MB, 3264x2448)
1.39 MB
1.39 MB JPG
>>1263335
And chainrings.
>>
>>1263222
They might be awful but it's not that complicated to true a damn wheelset. So yeah, I'll just get a set of these:
https://aliexpress.com/e/vmpNQrQ
>>
>>1263448
Disregard the link. They're basically less than 159 USD shipped.
>>
>>1263335
>>1263336
they don't look very worn at all, actually.
I'd feel confident keeping those and just slapping a new chain on, personally.
>>
>>1263482
Thanks for the input. I was hoping I could get away with just the chain change. I suppose I'll do that first and see how it goes, if it starts skipping or something, I'll have to look into it again.
>>
Are "microvibrations" transmitted from the bicycle and damaging bones and joints a real concern, or is it just marketing?
>>
>>1263499
Not really unless you have some condition where there's no fluid in your joints. Those rubber plugs that dampen vibration in the bars do make a huge difference if you ride rough stuff at all.
>>
Recently installed Avid SD7 v-brakes. The rear is feeling particularly... spongy. I don't have a metal file so all I was to do open up the hole with a pick after cutting the housing. Are burrs from bad cuts likely for this? I was hoping to just throw an end cap on it and look away.
>>
>>1262226
I like the ones in your pic, that looks practical.

I'm >>1260656 and pic related are a thing where I am, they work beneath helmets.

>>1262231
Ears get colder than the rest of your head. The vent holes in the helmet can be a problem too but solid helmet covers or head wraps prevent that and I think anon isn't riding in the super cold anyway.

>>1262241
>Ski gloves make it impossible to shift
You're wearing the wrong gloves then, check these babies!
https://www.amazon.com/Giro-100-Proof-Cycling-Glove/dp/B00NBAM8YW

There's a tonne of variants on those but that's the basic concept for what you want. They're just mittens for dropbars basically.

>>1262528
>Ski helmets are nice for cold weather cycling
The other night was -24c when I rode home from a mate's apartment. Only 15 minutes ride but cold enough to be careful how you breath. I wore a Giro ski helmet with attached ear covers, ski jacket, turtlefur over neck/head.
Also pic related and lobster gloves too.
I was reasonably toasty, just need warmer pants I think.
>>
>>1263499
dunno about bones and joints but I've heard of problems with hands from ulnar pinching on the handlebars
>>
>>1261887
Moto foam
>>
>>1263174
Whatever dry lube your LBS stocks.
>>
I've recently installed a new integrated headset and... can't figure out this wobble despite tightening down the compression bolt down to spec. I removed the upper headset cap and took at look at my compression ring. It's not snug and it sits on top of the upper sealed bearings. Is this normal? Should the lip be sitting between the steerer tube and upper bearing? Tried to clamp the compression ring since its split to make it fit within the upper bearings but it won't go.
>>
>>1263499
>>1263598
Mostly a meme, but hand discomfort due to nerve pinching, too much drop, or front heavy weight distribution can all cause problems.
All of these are fixable problems, also you can get gel pads that stick to your bars before you put on your bar tape.

If you have ulnar nerve entrapment issues, it's more than likely because your hoods need to be straight or turned out slightly, also you may be front heavy due to a saddle too far forward.
Hard to tell though without seeing you on a bike, as body proportions are an important factor.
>>
>>1263499

Get a pair of Gel Pad road bike gloves (Like the ones made by Pearl Izumi).

They will change your life. Like the first time you fucked the neighbor girl without a condom. Or the first time you rode a 26" 90s MTB with slickz.
>>
File: silicone ring.jpg (21 KB, 1000x1000)
21 KB
21 KB JPG
I lost the little silicone ring that goes between my handle bar and my light mount. Any suggestions on a DIY solution or cheap replacement? Currently trying elastic bands but I'm not sure it will be secure long term and the bands will likely perish in the weather.
>>
>>1263931
How do you not have a million of those?
I have a box of random light attachments and stuff and it has a dozen of those. If you have nothing then just buy a cheap bell or light and use the one from that. You could ask anyone irl and they'll probably have a few spares and any bikeshop would probably just give you one or charge a token price.

If you really want something without talking to another human being, use a segment of old inner-tube. Just cut out a section the width of your light mount then make a lengthways cut to open it, or don't and slide it on over the bar ends.



Delete Post: [File Only] Style:
[Disable Mobile View / Use Desktop Site]

[Enable Mobile View / Use Mobile Site]

All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.