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File: collage.jpg (579 KB, 1800x1800)
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>Mr. Bones' Wild Ride Edition

Old thread: >>1687459

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/7Sb4TVdy

>Need help with prints? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Bed & extruder temperature
>Print speed

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 7-9-2019]
Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 3
Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3 (Mk2 or Mk3)
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot or Ultimaker
Buyer beware: some chinkshit clones are garbage. Some can be genuinely good, though.
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusion 360 are free:
https://www.blender.org/
https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/
>>
I'm thinking of switching to SKR V1.3 + TMC2208 + klipper + octoprint
good combo there? I saw a lot of good stuff about the SKR v1.3 and of course tons of good stuff about klipper
>>
>>1692975
Might as well buy TMC2209 instead. They don't cost any more but have bigger version numbers on a bunch of features.
>>
Why does no-one use the CR-20? It's cheap and better than the Ender 3.
>>
>>1692983
What's the main benefits? they're much more expensive it looks like.
I see the amperage is a lot higher
>>
What is a good design to pick for a /diy/ 3d printer.
>>
>>1692988
folgertech ft-5 imo
by far the best rig I've ever copied, best frame etc
>>
I am looking fot the warlayer stl files, anyone can share ?
>>
>>1692989
Nice. I was looking into finding a nice frame like that one as well.
>>
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>>1692972
I've had CR-10 for around two years now, printing without too many issues, but now I just somehow can't seem to get filament to stick to the bed, even though I've only changed the nozzle to a new since old one was too worn out.
Any idea what the fuck am I doing wrong?
>change nozzle
>level bed, clean build platform
>filament won't stick, get a hairy blob on the nozzle
>level again, clean build platform and nozzle again.
>filament won't stick, get a hairy blob on the nozzle
>repeat more times 5 times
>lower first layer speed by 50%
>filament won't stick, get a hairy blob on the nozzle
>???
>>
>>1693007
yea I've had it for years, you can make it into a table and put shit on it, etc. It's strong. Not like the crappy single bar top ones that you look at wrong and they get all uneven and start printing wrong
>>
>>1693008
How often do you clean your build plate? What surface are you printing onto? How do you (if at all) treat the surface?
>>
>>1693016
I have the stock glass surface, previously I used a glue stick for adhesion but found it really was not needed if the build plate was clean and level.
If I print infrequently, I clean the build plate before every print. When doing a bigger project (like now for halloween) I clean it at least every couple of days, so around after 2 prints.
>>
>>1693016
>>1693018
I also use PLA
>>
>>1693008
could be a bad nozzle, when my filament curls at the end I change the nozzle. I use 20 cent chinese nozzles though and just replace every 10 prints or so
when I fell for the expensive nozzle meme it was always a dirty nozzle that caused curling as well, but I gave up on cleaning them.
>>
>>1693021
Ok, I guess I'll change the nozzle again and see if it helps out.
>>
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>>1692975
There is no point in using klipper with more powerful board like SKR. You'll be wasting your money.
Otherwise, good combo.
>>
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>>1693021
>>1693023
Well what do you know! Changed the nozzle to another from the kit and did some releveling and printing seems to be going great.
Thanks for the assist.
>>
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If I wanted to 3d print a 1:1 model of my ribcage could I find a company with a high quality printer to do this for me?

what plastic do I make this from, I am completely new to printing this will be my first project.
>>
>>1693117
yea, if you ever want to join the dark side try some super cheat nozzles and just switch them frequently:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32957549214.html
looks like they're even cheaper now, 20 pack for $3 lmao
>>
>>1693030
This is incorrect. Klipper always improves performance and you can always get faster speed. As well as the fact that "wasting your money" doesn't exist when all the shit is already owned.
>>
I have a dual Nema17 Y axis: https://folgertech.com/products/copy-of-nema17-17-stepper-motor-5000g-cm-3d-printer-reprap-medel-prusa

can TMC drivers push this? They seem to be much lower amps than A4988
>>
>>1693143

The quality of that model is pretty low due to the low resolution of the scan (i'm guessing it's an MRI scan), so you don't need a high quality printer for that. It's a bit ambitious for a first project, but a large format printer like a Creality CR-10 ought to be enough to print it in 1:1 scale by splitting the model in 2-4 sections.
>>
>>1693170

Even A4988's aren't suitable for driving two motors at once. It's often used on the Z axis because it doesn't move often enough for the driver to overheat. Set up your firmware to use a driver for each Y motor instead, then you can use pretty much any driver
>>
>>1692972
>my fleshlight suction cap made the OP collage
nice
>>
>>1693168
> implying that printer will spit plastic faster because of different firmware.

Live the meme my friend.
>>
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any one have a model for a tool to insert wires into these cable protectors?
>>
Anyone else polish their nozzles?
Filament rarely gets stuck on it now which also helps with first layer adhesion to bed.
>>
>>1693344
How did you model the threads for the cap? I recently designed one that makes a train whistle sound when used, but i had a really hard time getting the thread profile and pitch correct.
>>
>>1693417
This is supposed to be a reply to:
>>1693271
>>
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>>1693417
>>1693419
it's a 3mm pitch with an even profile, 1.5mm ridge and 1.5mm groove. I used a pretty aggressive slope so it would print easier but it also makes it grip the thread stronger.

>I recently designed one that makes a train whistle sound when use
lmao
>>
>>1693143
>1:1 model
>find a company
You're probably going to spend more on the print than you did to get that scan, unless its someone you personally know. >>1693214 is right, you should buy your own printer to do this. See if you can subdivide that to smooth out the voxels, though.
>>
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>>1693417
>>1693271
>suction cap
>fleshlight train whistle
I genuinely can't tell if you guys are serious or if this is a reverse euphemism of some sort, but I'm chuckling at the thought of some dude fucking a tube that's making noises like the bastard child of a whoopee cushion and Thomas the Tank Engine.
>>
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>>1693425
>>1693500
You better believe my masterpiece is a real and fully functional print.
>>
Does it sound like a slide whistle as you slide it in an out?
>>
>>1693030
Wrong, they all benefit. Just build your printer to not fall apart from the speed
>>
>>1693220
I've had A4988 running 2 motors for almost 2 years, daily use. That's how the printer comes and says to do it
>>
>>1693553
I really hope it does, kek
>>
>>1693555
Z-Motors?
>>
>>1693576
Y motors as said before, it's how the FT-5 is designed, hundreds or maybe thousands of other people do the same without issues.
was just curious if the TMC drivers can handle the same. Seems I gotta try it to see
>>
>>1693498
I have another scan from the same imaging that has 3x as many image slices so it should be much smoother it kept crashing the program though...
>>
>>1693708
That is a really ambitious first project, especially considering that you typically need to optimize your model for printing. You'd likely have to learn to edit the model in a 3d program to refine it to a point that it'll print properly. Also a 1:1 print is going to be ridiculously expensive. You could consider printing a small desk toy sized model on a resin printer and likely get a much better result.
>>
>>1692972
Where's the nigger that cast that piece in the bottom middle pic? what material is that and how did you do it?
>>
SInce I've installed a micro swiss hotend on my Ender 3 all my prints are stringy. I'm pretty new to the whole 3d printing and was hoping anyone can send me in the right direction how to fix this.

I did to a pid autotune after installing the hotend and tried increasing the temperature, but still stringy.
>>
>>1693741
I was going to tell you, but then you called me a nigger.
>>
>>1693767

1.) WTF are you prints so far away for? They should be close together. This minimizes print time and potential problems with variations in bed height.

2.) Turn retraction up a bit.

3.) The stock part cooler on the Ender is shite. Print a new one.

4.) Turning temperature up _increases_ stringing problems. You want the MINIMUM temperature you can get away with, while still providing adequate flow through the nozzle and layer adhesion.

5.) If you're using the stock speeds/acceleration on the Ender 3, bump them up. They're extremely conservative. As a point of reference, I have maximum speed of 500 on X/Y, acceleration is set to 2000 on X, 3000 on Y. Extruder is set to 80 max speed and 7000 accel. The less time spent traveling, the less time there is for material to ooze out.
>>
>>1693767
did you do the cura retraction one weird trick?
>>
>>1693775
It was a test print and I also wanted to check if the bed was level.

Tnx for the feedback
>>
>>1693334
split it open like in the pic and insert it??
>>
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Last week's VFD prusa Anon here. I ended up buying a UW5J from the Illinois distributor and got the free sample of filters because I had to spend time waiting for the LDO controller I sent back because I thought the encoder was bad.

Finally got the new UW5J and it works flawlessly. I'm 99% positive the UW4J didn't work because it used that hd66712 driver instead of the hd44780.
HD66712 data sheet says it's compatible with hd44780 but it's just barely enough. I found some posts on the Arduino boards of people having issues interfacing with the same UW4J I had because it didn't use 44780.

Menus navigate perfectly fine, text scrolls on the menu fine, and most importantly looks great.
>>
>>1693960
glad to hear you got it sorted
>>
>>1693773
blow me, nigger.
>>
>>1693806
yeah, but it's really tight. I used to have a sliding tool that helped insert wires into the sheath without damaging them, but it was for a different size of protector and I can remember exactly what the shape was that made it work so nicely.
>>
>>1694025
>>1693806
>>1693334
ha, I found what they're called. I was looking for wire loom tools
>>
I'm trying to configure my support settings so that they're not so stuck to my part, because right now I get a horrible finish on areas that were supported during print.

I think the setting I'm looking for is Vertical Separation Layers on Simplify3D, but I can't find that in Cura. Does it have a different name?
>>
>>1693767
Same thing happened to me.
- get rid of the hardened nozzle that comes with the micro swiss, put back a brass nozzle
- set retraction to 3mm, 25mm/s
- lower temp to 200, max 205
- increase travel speed, I got it at 150
- print a better cooler, like https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2814127

If all else fails, change filament. I found out that filaments that are more matte tend to string less, as opposed to the shiny ones.
>>
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the chinese plastic in my microwave door broke around one of the attachment points for the door handle. i printed a bracket to reattach the handle.
>>
>>1694109
Use lines instead of the default zigzag cura uses. They snap pretty clean off. Anything left over is generally easy to clean up.
>>
>>1694109
Enable support interface in cura.
>>
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Update on my pill dispenser project, I printed the first two parts, the revolving cylinder and the button, I put some enamel paint on the button to make it look nicer.
They're printed at 0.12 layer height and .2mm nozzle, so even tho they're tiny they took around 7 hours to print.
So far it looks good, although I'll need the rest of the components to test if it works as it should.
>>
>>1694297
that's a nice print, and the enamel looks good.
>>
>>1694297
Seconding this, the enamel reminds me of potted electronics, neat stuff
>>
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I printed most of the internals, I just need to print the 3 parts of the case and check if it works.
I reprinted the button because it was kind of a tight fit and the wheel is supposed to revolve around it, so less friction is better. I changed the color scheme while I was at it.
>>
>>1693511
Nigga you better drop a link to that .stl
>>
>>1693775
what are some good replacement part cooler files?
>>
I just switched filaments and my extruder motor is making pulsating noises. As far as i can tell its not effecting the print. But its extremely obnoxious and worries me that the motor is under some sort of stress.
>>
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Does anybody have any clue why this happened? My printer completely just didn't print some layers and l could easily break it into two.
>>
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I came up with a idea for a feeding device, like a soda hat, but fits to the side of your face. Fill with small food, like trail mix, and open the slide door to receive food. Great for gaming, but I realized it was a terrible idea.
>>
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>>1694730
Similar to how color paper printers are harcoded to not print currency, our friends in the atf have worked with reputable 3d printer manufacturers to not allow functional gayr-15 parts. Your printers firmware skipped that later for our safety.
>>
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generative design is sick
>>
>>1694730
temporary clog
>>
>>1693984
is that even metal? the paper towel makes it seem like he was painting it. if it is metal he most likely used aluminum and did lost pla casting
>>
>>1694777
Apparent nigger here, it's brass.
>>
>>1694780
well how did you cast it nigger
>>
>>1694765
Already done
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R-o7YG3x0DI
>>
>>1694784
Gave it to a local artist, he cast two for me for 75 EUR using lost PLA casting - I printed them in regular PLA, none of the fancy castable stuff. I'm not going to invest in a forge or anything before testing this several times, and I doubt I could do any better than the excellent work he's done, even with dozens of hours of practice.
>>
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Can anyone tell me if theres a good way to model the motion of a silicone membrane that flattens out when pressed down on by a button from above? I can use solidworks or fusion for the assembly, i just need a good way to visualize the motion and distance as the membrane goes down.
>>
>>1694795
What I do for motion is sketch the object (in a cross-section with projected geometry) but don't fully constrain it. Works okay for me for non-deformable objects but might be a bit finicky for you; maybe leave the length of the diagonal unconstrained and keep the cylindrical portion vertical.
>>
>>1694795
You can run a simple static stress sim and it will give you the displacement and show its deformation
>>
>>1694770
lmao the sad fact is in the future this will be reality
>>
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>>1694853
>this will be reality
Good luck hardcoding that on literal general-purpose chips on every home-built printer.
>>
>>1694859
No need, since there will be no DIY printers. Buying NEMA 17s and aluminum extrusions gets you put on a watch list at best.
>>
>>1694859
the jews probably already snuck it into grbl
>>
>>1694901
I got 2600mm extrudes from china cuz they aren't available in the states that I saw and the government contacted me asking if I was involved in anti-trade etc lmao. I told them to show me where to get any extrusions that big and they said "ok good enough" and let it ship to me..
>>
>>1694902
Which is why it's open-source so you can compile it yourself after making sure there's no malicious code

>>1694901
>buying common tools and equipment gets you put on a watch list
What is this, fucking North Korea?
>>
>>1694730

Either a clog or your extruder motor is too weak and is skipping steps in sections where more extrusion force is required. It can also happen if you're printing too fast and the motor can't keep up.
>>
>>1694908
>Which is why it's open-source so you can compile it yourself after making sure there's no malicious code
irrelevant and that isn't malicious
>>
>>1692972
spikeman
>>
>>1694924
>parts of the code that stop you from printing what you want to print
>not malicious
>irrelevant
It's completely relevant. People can put whatever the fuck they like in precompiled soft, release it, and nobody will be the wiser, but if you can comb through it and check they don't have that code, you can still do whatever the hell you'd like with it.
>>
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Holy shit, is this thing pissing me off. I can't believe they thought the chimney and IR sensor was the best choice for this, it's the single least reliable thing I've ever had to fucking work with. Not only are my bearings somehow slightly elliptical, which makes the door wobble, but the sensitivity means I have basically .5mm or less to work with where the IR sensor is either always on or always off.

Fuck.
>>
>>1692984
Viral. Plus, community support.
>>
>>1694679

I used this because it was the first thing I found and required minimal installation effort:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3343456

Works well enough. I suggest the "tall" version, as the short just touches the silicone sock. I also do not recommend making it out of PLA, because it will warp and sag being that near the heater, then start dragging on your parts. I know because that's what happened to me. Re-made them out of PETG, have had no problems since.
>>
>>1694933
wrong
>>
How bad are the resin fumes from 3d printing? What's brands are good/shit?
>>
>>1695170
Just wear a respirator with real filters while working with it, and keep your printer in the garage.
>>
>>1695170

It depends on the resin, i read that the "tough" resins smell the strongest, and the "eco" ones the least. Either way it's best to modify the printer to have proper fume extraction with a strong fan that vents the fumes outside
>>
>>1695170
I use Elegoo Mars Gray, and it is pretty strong; have dropped miniatures with tiny tiny delicate limbs into hardwood with no breakages. The smell is pretty bad when the cover is off, less terrible while printing but I do have to keep it in the garage. Honestly, working over the IPA baths gets my head swimming faster but the resin fumes have given me some long lasting headaches if I don't vent it out first.
>>
>>1694927
Spikeman is a nice man, search for lavos spawn on Thingiverse
>>
>>1694986
2019
still falling for the prusa meme
>>
https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper/blob/master/config/example.cfg
>control: pid
># Control algorithm (either pid or watermark). >This parameter must
># be provided.

What is watermarking algorithm? I can't find any info on it, been looking for a while, even asked some chat rooms. nobody knows
I see no info about it on the git either
>>
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>>1695490
looks like watermark is just a fancy name for bangbang control
>>
>>1695497
thanks, I read that but was too retarded to know bang bang was an algorithm lmao, found a wiki page to read it
>>
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Getting my theseus' ship anet a8 back up and rolling but been having this ripple in prints every certain interval of layers that I can't get to go away, any ideas? Ignore the top, it's printed with no infill. 0.2mm layer height, 0.4mm nozzle. This is printed in petg but the rippling happens with all types of filament. The board is an Aliexpress Duet WiFi.
>>
>>1695636
Leadscrews not straight or something binding, causing back-and-forth motion on the Z axis if it's that regular.
>>
>>1695355
Except IPA only gets you lightheaded, resin fumes are carcinogenic
>>
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Uh... not sure where to start here.

I have an AnyCubic Photon, fresh out the box, set it up, leveled/flattened plate and printed this

Wake up and... the print is there but it looks like it started over-printing around the 3/4 mark and there are giant chunks of resin in the tub.

What did I do wrong here?
>>
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>>1695760
Another angle
>>
>>1695760
You'll need to be more precise than
>over-printing
>>
>>1695766
So there is bits of resin hanging off the test model and a layer of resin on the film I had to scrape off
>>
>>1695767
SLA printers put a lot of stress on the model when they peel it off the film every layer. that thing looks flimsy as hell and it was probably bent or broken in that area, it's a miracle you didn't get just a glob of hardened resin.

as soon as a chunk of it is left on the film instead of being peeled up with the rest of the model, all sorts of shit can happen.
>>
>>1695800
I should mention how you can fix it: add supports (this model looks like it was meant to be printed without supports though) or increase the layer time.
>>
>>1695705
>Carcinogenic
You're scare mongering, either inadvertently or deliberately. Resin fumes are an irritant (and I sure as fuck wouldn't snort the dust from sanding), but there's no link between any fumes and cancer.
>>
>>1695800
>>1695801
Really? So this is unlikely to have been an improperly leveled build plate?
>>
>>1694902
right, because grbl has sooo much room to spare to add shit like that
>>1694901
>nema17
dont even need to buy them considering they are is many consumer/industrial devices already
>extrusions
not realistic at all, 3dp fags arent the only ones who buy aluminium extrusions, they are a small fraction of the market

and also, how could it realistically tell if its a lower, or a liberator or anything really . these are gcode interpreters, they have no context of what they are doing
>>
>>1695812
Thanks professor, now that you've pointed out how preposterous these posts are the rest of us can calibrate our sarcasm detectors.
>>
I just started trying to learn Solidworks but my LEGAL copy seems to be retarded. No matter how much I try to visualize it in a 3/4 view it doesn't let me.
What do? I swear this is a cube.
>>
>>1695878
Hold middle mouse button, swipe away.

Buy a 3D mouse once you git gud.
>>
>>1695882
Ah, fuck. I feel like a retard.
Thanks.
>>
>>1695884
Judging by your language settings, you probably are one.

Goodnight mate.
>>
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>>1695886
Yeah, I should've installed it in english. I don't even visit sites in spanish anymore.

Just one more thing. Is this a 3D mouse?
>>
>>1695878
Press CTRL + 7
>>
>>1695808
once the first layer is done, the level of the build plate doesn't matter anymore.
>>
>>1695887
you really do not need one of those. only people who design things for industrial grade CNC machines use them.
>>
>>1695892
I'm only going to use it to design pieces to mod my transformers.
>>
>>1695891
Good to know.

I just loaded this test print from the anycubic USB and hit print without setting anything, next print I will properly prepare in chitubox
>>
Do gayer fivesheen prints need tight tolerances?
Are CR-10s too low-tolerance for a decent print?
>>
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>>1695925

Here are my settings for the green resin that comes in the box. I've set light-off delay to 6.5s so that chitubox gives an accurate estimate on the print time. Also i level the bed using this method:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=roAqm5c3rfU
>>
>>1695805
Looks like he snorted too much resin fume and went retarded.
Dont be like him guys.
>>
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>>1695887
Pic related is probably the simplest you can get (Space Mouse), it's got the bare minimum for navigation + 2 buttons on the left and right.
>>
>>1696063
So, what does it do and how will it help me model things?
>>
>>1696064
It lets you pan, tilt, and zoom using just the knob. Some people I work with swear by it; I've never been able to get the hang of it. Since I use a lot of hotkeys, it slows me down to switch my hand from the keyboard to the space mouse instead of just hitting shift/alt/ctrl/etc., but my coworkers who click on icons in the toolbar(s) use these a lot.
>>
>>1696066
>121 dollars
Oof. It feels like I'd have to pretty much work professionally with Solidworks to justify buying this.
>>
>>1696068
It also works in blender, if it's any consolation. I'm not sure if there's a list of compatibilities, but I think most 3D programs should be able to use it (and it works as a scroll wheel in Chrome, for whatever reason)
>>
>>1696069
>Blender
I had thought of trying my hand at animating in Blender in the future. I'll keep it in mind.
>>
you idiot I already told you not to buy that shit, you DO NOT need it. it is only good for modelling non-orientable machine parts. a regular mouse is better for whatever the hell you will be 3d printing.
>>
>>1696066
>Some people I work with swear by it; I've never been able to get the hang of it. Since I use a lot of hotkeys
Depends on your workflow, really. The more expensive units have a lot of rebindable keys so they might work as well, I've only got a compact model.
It's hard to justify them if you're not in a professional environment, but they are extremely neat if you ge tthe hang of it.

>>1696064
It'll help you because you can use two hands to work instead of just one.

>>1696068
>>1696069
>>1696070
They also work in NX, Fusion, and many other CAD software variants.

>>1696086
>you DO NOT need it
SHALL
>a regular mouse is better for whatever the hell you will be 3d printing.
You don't know what I'm printing.
>>
>>1696115
>you can use two hands to work instead of just one
I absolutely do not understand people who do not use hotkeys and only use the mouse to CAD. It's horrendously slow, first of all, and second, how does it not frustrate them to have to move the mouse back and forth across half the screen every other second to do literally anything?
>>
Lads, I need to learn Fusion and I've already translated the 50 or so parts I have in my Solidworks archive into Fusion. What else can I draw? Running out of ideas to practice here.
>>
>>1696115
>It'll help you because you can use two hands to work instead of just one.
My left hand is capable of holding CTRL, ALT, or SHIFT which modifies the behavior of middle click. That's all the "Space Mouse" does anyway. It's a peripheral to use instead of the middle mouse button and those keys.
>>
>>1696198
Your right hand will still get overworked this way instead of dividing the work load.
>>
>>1696203
>>1696198

I don't know how it is for CAD work, but i model stuff professionally, and these "3D mice" are about as useful and gimmicky as a nintendo powerglove. The amount of keys i use regularly on the keyboard far exceeds anything these "space mice" can provide.

Not to mention that these things combine the job of both viewport navigation and key shortcuts into one hand, when normally it would be distributed to both hands (right hand on the mouse for view navigation and object manipulation and left hand on the keys to invoke different operations). Simple example - how do you start to rotate an object and specify a precise degree in numbers with that thing in just 2 seconds? You can't.
>>
>>1696203
CAD is my dayjob. "Space Mice" are gimmicky nonsense. You will need to learn the hot keys for every CAD software you use, and only some of them can be changed in certain titles. In Solidworks and Mastercam middle-click is view manipulation, but in the other package I use for certain projects Middle-Click isn't an option so I have to use Right+Left click.

There's no such thing as "dividing the workload". You'll still have hot keys to contend with for all the other functions that the software uses. The only special-use peripheral I've ever found to be worth spending money on was wacom pens for illustration or zsculpting.
>>
>>1696187
just look around and 3d model stuff you have around the house. Computer, mouse, speakers, lamp,... And go into details, try matching all chamfers, fillers, small edges, split lines,... If you are really bored, just remodel every picture from this thread. That should give you some workout
>>
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No idea where to post this, but there should be a couple of good Fusion users here. I'm trying to simulate the impact of an airgun pellet onto a 8mm sheet of polycarbonate and then using the model to reduce sheet thickness to determine the minimum.
I've tested this in real life and the bullet does not penetrate, but in Fusion, there's a hole in the panel and several bullet shards on the other end of the panel once the simulation is done. What could be going wrong here?
>Materials are working properly
>Panel and pellet are properly fixed
>Tried different mesh settings, still got penetration
>Time window is set properly
>>
>>1696279
do you have a chronograph?
is the speed of the pellet and its weight calculated? what about the material of the pellet
>>
>>1696279
It would be easier and faster to just test this.
>>
i recently bought a second ender 3 just to work with a .2mm nozzle for detailed prints but i don't want to change nozzles all the time. is there anything i need to be aware of working with .2? i'm going to use a dusting filament guide because that's the only thing i've seen in my reading
>>
>>1696279
Are you sure this is supposed to work? Idk what you are doing, but this kind of simulations are usually meant for small deformations and only in linear elastic part.
Have you considered using zero-thickness shell/surface type of simulation? They are usually used for plates, sheets and such thin walled parts. You can get much finer mesh, with less computing time. Not sure if it would work for you.
>>
>>1696396
prepare to be disappointed
>>
>>1696396

I bought one but have not used it yet so take my advice with a grain of salt. But apparently there are like guides on how to do it and you have to mess with line width and all that stuff. You also have to set up cura different. Extrusion is different also because its squeezing through a tiny hole at the same speed which means it extrudes faster
>>
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>>1696405
>>1696425
i'm going to be trying to create molds from the prints for casting, with the most complex thing being dice. this is what cura gave me with the defaults but in my bit of testing with .4, having it stand on a point with supports gave more consistent faces
>>
>>1696279
Refine the mesh at the impact location, the pic looks too rough.
This problem is pretty nonlinear. Consider using different solvers, no idea what would work. You would need a lot of deformation dependent material properties too.
The bullet should be a rigid body. Otherwise the first element hitting the wall would explode into a wormhole. You are not interested in the bullet deformation anyway.

And a tip that helped us a lot when doing similar stuff:
The first (not initial) step BC should be load on the bullets face.
The second step BC should be displacement.

If you just have a single displacement step. The bullet that did not yet touch the wall would be traveling freely, the solved would detect this and increase the time step so much that the second iteration would have moved the bullet too far (or even way past) into the wall. If you have a load BC the time steps would be increased until the given load is reached (bullet touches the wall) then the displacement BC could do the job correctly.
I hope this makes sense, im not great at FEM.
>>
>>1696325
>do you have a chronograph?
>is the speed of the pellet and its weight calculated?
Target airguns like my FWB P8X and Hammerli AR20 are proofed at 7.5 Joule, that's roughly 150m/s with a 7 grain, 4.5mm pellet. I just took my 8mm sheet of lexan to the shooting range and we only dented it with a .22 rifle (CCI standard, about 100J at 100 meters), so it's overkill for my airguns.
>what about the material of the pellet
Completely lead.

>>1696357
If I had several sheets of polycarbonate with different thickness. Which I don't.

>>1696403
>Idk what you are doing, but this kind of simulations are usually meant for small deformations and only in linear elastic part.
Fusion calls this ''event simulation'', where you can get big deformations and break stuff.

>>1696437
>finer mesh
Fusion forces you to do this specific kind of computing (as well as generative design) on the cloud, it already takes ages.

This isn't a static simulation with loads, it's a dynamic simulation with velocity, since I have no way of guesstimating the amount of load a 4.5mm pellet would produce. BC's like load and displacement do not apply.
>>
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>>1696437
>>1696440
HOLY SHIT ANON THANKS

I made the pellet ridgid, it drastically cuts down on simulation time, AND IT BOUNCES BACK OFF THE 8MM PANEL, JUST LIKE IN REAL LIFE.

Now to find the critical dimension. Here, have some hotend porn as thanks.
>>
>>1696396
>>1696435
If you're trying to do small castings you might want to look into a cheap resin printer like an elegoo mars or photon. They're an order of magnitude better than fdm for things like that, even with a 2mm nozzle. I know jewelers use them with special cashable resins too.
>>
>>1696457
I almost suggested to use a better software but im happy you made it work
>>
Is Lulzbot worth buying? Lot of printed parts for an expensive printer.
>>
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>>1696489
>Is Lulzbot worth buying?
Depends on how much free time you have versus how much money you have.
I don't have time to build, tweak, tune, and repair printers. So my lulzbot minis have been a great investment considering they're all still reliable even after passing 8,000 print hours each. The only one waiting on any work needs a cable assembly replaced, and making it myself is significantly cheaper than buying it from lulzbot. I won't get around to doing so until next week though.
The extruder assemblies are very easy to swap. Filament is extremely fast and easy to swap out. Buildplates are very easy to swap out and use daily.
>>
I'm thinking of converting my cr-10s into an all in one unit, could you recommend a conversion kit i could print?
>>
Through my ineptitude, I think I got a few drops of alcohol in the resin tank of my printer. Is it worth trying to pour off the far side of the tank to conserve what resin I can, or should I just suck it up and dispose of the current tank?
>>
>>1696653
Can you not just scoop it out? Does it significantly change the properties of the resin? I was always under the impression that it was just a regular solvent and there was no chemical breakdown / other irreversible processes.
>>
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So I have an old 80s car. Now getting interior pieces for it are a bitch and most are just falling apart anyways. People will ask insane prices for a small piece of the center console. Now I've been looking at reviews of various printers. I want to go the route of abs because it can withstand high temps that would be in a car interior. I also want something that can print in larger sizes. I'm just starting out and so I dont want to invest a ton of money in case it doesn't work out. I'm considering the creality cr10. Would this be a good idea?
>>
>>1696704
ABS ain't gonna work in an unenclosed printer, so bad idea, I'd stick with PETG instead. CR10 might be good, but I'd consider two Enders instead and joining parts together, or an AC Chiron.
>>
>>1696706
>ABS ain't gonna work in an unenclosed printer
But thats all we used before PLA became a thing.
>>
>>1696713
and that's when 3d prints all looked like warped snotballs.
>>
>>1695878
Push space
>>
>>1696704
Like >>1696706 said, warping is seriously bad in unenclosed printers. I have a Prusa-clone (unenclosed) which I use for ABS but I made an enclosure out of cardboard boxes and cut a flap on top so I can make adjustments while it's running. The cardboard works by itself and in the colder months I throw an old blanket on top of that to make it even better. If you don't care about what your friends think it works and it was free.
>>
>>1696807
I forgot to add, ABS is superior to PLA in pretty much every way, I recommend not wasting your time with PLA. Seems like everybody uses PLA to print toys or figurines.
>>
>>1696810
PLA is fine for many structural parts too. I've made RC car gearboxes out of PLA, they work fine. In fact for some things PLA is better, its very low tendency to warp means you can have some extremely crisp corners, where ABs would tend to warp or become blunt even in an enclosed printer.

I wouldn't use PLA to print a car dash, but it has nothing to do with this. PLA has a rather low transition temperature, if you just leave it in your car seat a few hours on a sunny day it can warp into being unrecognisable. I wouldn't want to imagine that as a car dash, a situation where it will be in direct sunlight inside a car all day, all year.
>>
>>1696489
have a taz 6 at work, z banding is disgusting and constantly undextrudes, the four washer bed leveling is painfully slow. It's kind of loud too, if you have a girlfriend / wife or roommates and neighbors they might be able to hear it thru some walls if it's just going down the hall. build volume is huge but the only time we ever fully make use of it is when we fill it with multiple runs of smaller parts. I'd call the $850 prusa kit + 14 hours of my time well worth it for more quality prints, quieter operation, and the textured magnetic print sheets make it hard to going back to print on bare glass, painters tape or pei sticker.
>>
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>>1696489
>Lot of printed parts for an expensive printer
>>
need to make my stl file to a step. I am having a hellova fucking time trying to do this. Is anyone familiar with a simple solution or software out there?
>>
>>1696891
STL is a mesh, STEP is a CAD. You'll need to either use something like the "3D Import Wizard" in SW, or just content yourself with editing the STL in a program like Blender instead.
>>
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no goose no
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>>1696833
>if you just leave [PLA] in your car seat a few hours on a sunny day it can warp into being unrecognisable.
I put a part in my cars ashtray a little over 1 year ago to test. It's the first iteration of the angle clip on the bottom of pic related.
This summer was fairly mild in Missouri, I don't think it ever hit 100 degrees other than heat index.
The part hasn't deformed at all that I can tell. It's just sitting there though, with no forces acting on it other than gravity.
>>
>>1696936
Yeah, that's probably not going to warp any time soon. First it's probably getting at least a little shade in the ash tray, and second it doesn't really have any force to make it warp, like you say. If instead you have, say, a cell phone holder printed from PLA, the weight of the phone could make it warp over a warm day. I suspect that a car dashboard made from PLA would weigh enough that it would warp itself. I don't think it would necessarily break, but do you really want a saggy dashboard?
>>
So my printer runs into the corners and grinds, why the fuck does it do that? How can I unfuck it?
Mamorubot Mars 2
>>
>>1696925
Did you actually MMU it or separate parts? Seems like it would be a lot of wasted plastic on the purge tower
Also, link?
>>
>>1696891
Host it and I can convert it for you, of you like.
>>
>>1697174
Naw, it's separate parts that snap/glue together
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3906053
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>>1692972
Can any of you recomend me a cheap sla? the only one with a decent print size that I could find under 500$ is this
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=30994
>>
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Printed a pathfinder just to try out the tree supports. 100mm tall, 0.2 layer, MP select mini.
Came out nice except one of the two thingies at the top that was loose and came off.
>>
>>1697385
Anycubic photon ( non S model)
Elegoo Mars
Epax X1
>>
>>1697431
all these are smaller, but ty
>>
is there a group or mega for STL's? I am looking for printable terrain for my D&D group and other stuff
>>
>>1697507
like... thingiverse and prusaprinters and all the others?
Heres a list https://all3dp.com/1/free-stl-files-3d-printer-models-3d-print-files-stl-download/
>>
>>1697385
That monoprice printer is notoriously unreliable, and it's only larger than the others in the z direction. All sla printers under $500 use the same chinese phone screen for their masking, and thus will have nearly identical resolution and x-y print volume. Budget SLA at this point foes not lend itself well to larger print sizes. I think peopoly makes a larger moai if you're willing to pay for the build volume tho.
>>
>>1697454
You might want to double check that, they all have the same X Y build size, only difference is for the Z.

They all use the very same LCD
>>
>>1696995
Your end stops are probably disconnected so the printer doesn't know when it's at the end of an axis.
>>
>>1697555
>>1697560
Looks slightly bigger than the Anycubic and the Epax, the same X and Y than the Elegoo Mars but idk really, all 4 could share the same screen, peopoly is out of my budget ಠ_ಥ
>>
>>1695636
>Duet
anyone try the new ver 3 software? I dont want to have to change up my gcode so drastically if there is no benefit right now, would rather wait for a comprehensive guide on the new tool based system for stuff like hotend swapping on my basic duet 2 wifi. I also want to use the fan rpm setup so I can stop undervolting and overheating my blower during the first few layers due to the gradual fan power not having a minimum in slicing.
>>
>>1697515
he probably means ones behind patreon and gumtree walls, things only yeggi can sometimes find
>>1697507
try to find a discord group for d&d or 3dp diy on red dit or something, most likely there is a guy in there that is in a file sharing group, I used to dabble in game and artstation/sketchfab ripping and worked on converting those models to a printable state for experience. if there is a will, there probably is a way. if they use telegram, its probably a scam tho.
>>
https://www.reporterherald.com/2019/10/11/lovelands-aleph-objects-undergoes-significant-reduction-of-staff/?fbclid=IwAR1wCYnoYpko839o5fedj0Yw9GNdCMRnPPWWexCr9WpfPu3C8U_9KlLhzLU

RIP lulzbot
>>
>>1697631
god I wanted that bio printer to come to our lab
rip
>>
>>1695760
Their USB drives are notorious for being real pieces of shit.
Find a spare USB drive and load up the same file from online.
>>
>zero top layers, 0% infill, multiple walls

Does this actually work for making shells? When I use these settings my slicer (cura) shows a gap between the walls, where infill would go.
>>
>>1696118
My mouse can do that too faggot
>>
>>1697816
>Does this actually work for making shells?
>slicer (cura) shows a gap between the walls
You answered yourself. I am not sure what you want. Post pics.
>>
>>1697820
You have two extra buttons on there versus an entire keyboard. No, it can't have as many hotkeys, by definition.
>>
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Well, this was certainly unexpected. I'm interesting in seeing how well it will be received.
>>
>>1697908
Yeah. I'm really surprised. Everyone was guessing bigger printer, but given Lulzbot's troubles... maybe this is indirectly related. Too many printers in the same niche, and Prusa has won it, so now they move down in price a bit.
>>
>>1697917
>bigger printer
Well, they did announce one, but it's at least a year off. I can't imagine it'll sell for less than about 1100-1400, though, but I'm not sure what will make up that price. Or maybe we'll get a nice surprise and it will be roughly equal with the MK3S price.
>>
>>1697922
>Well, they did announce one, but it's at least a year off. I can't imagine it'll sell for less than about 1100-1400, though
I'd buy it in a heartbeat at that price. I think it's a mistake for them to get into any race to the bottom on price. They just need to not be the *most* expensive in a bracket. That hasn't served Lulzbot well.
>>
>>1697925
Also... I expected MMU news.
>>
>>1697908
Wonder how it performs against the regular one. It could be a clever move though, people are willing to pay something more for a quality machine, but just not as much as a regular one costs.
>>
>>1697930
>>MMU news
What could they have announced? I don't foresee an MMU3 any time soon, and so far from what I've seen it looks like they're "okay" with the results it's shown so far (despite the multitude of IR sensor and chimney issues I've heard from individuals)
>>
>>1697941
>What could they have announced?
Fixes.
>I don't foresee an MMU3 any time soon
I don't either, but as I'm trying to launch my own MMU successor, I was a little worried about being scooped :-)
> and so far from what I've seen it looks like they're "okay" with the results it's shown so far
I think it's a basically good design with implementation problems that really need to be fixed.
> despite the multitude of IR sensor and chimney issues I've heard from individuals
Exactly. Why would this not get fixed? Yeah, I'm going to try to sell my fix, but it just seems like such an obvious step.
>>
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I would like to get into 3d printing but i'm kinda broke. I know a lot about electronics which is my main hobby and would like to make my own printer. I read about reprap but afaik the only way to make one is to already own printer or have a friend that has one. And the only kit that I could find was the "original" prusa mk3/2 which is wayyy over my price range.

Does anybody know where I could source 3d printed reprap parts ? Or get a cheap kit if the first option is too complicated to get?
>>
>>1697971
Did you read the OP?
>>
>>1697973
Yes i did and it mentions reprap. The thing that asking you guys now is where to find reprap parts if I don't already own a 3d printer. Which is not in the op
>>
>>1697971
Buy an Ender 3 on ebay. It's going to end up costing about the same as a DIY reprap, but it'll give you way less of a headache setting it up and it's actually pretty good value for money.
When you get it go to your local glasscutter/hardware store/whatever and have them cut up a 235x235x3 square (preferably of borosilicate, but it's not a huge deal if you get window or mirror glass instead).

One advantage of the Ender is that it's popular. If you DIY a reprap, you're going to need to be able to solve problems yourself. With the ender you can just google "ender 3 problem" and find a dozen reddit threads.
>>
>>1697971
>the only kit that I could find
I don't believe you. Google and Amazon show multiple kits under $300 for "3D printer kit". There is absolutely no way you did not find those kits unless you put forth zero effort in the most basic search you could do, I can't think of any other alternative.

You can make a 3D printer out of an old 2D printer, scanner, or even CD/DVD drive if you're that pressed for cash.
>>
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>>1697971
I got this. Couldn't find anything for other countries though.
>>
>>1697977
Ok thanks, i will probably do that.

>>1697978
I did actually, i meant the only good looking kit i could find. i'm probably going to go for the ender 3 since it seems cheaper anyways
>>
You can get printed parts on ebay
>https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-set-Printed-Parts-Kit-For-RepRap-Prusa-i3-Rework-PLA-3D-printer-DIY-Black/272715441481?epid=1079697574&hash=item3f7f1b6549:g:WtcAAOSwz71ZP8jz

Don't think you'll save money building from scratch.
Looking at about $350

Rods and motors are about $10 = $110
electronics = $40
heatbed = $20
hot end = $20
linear bearings $10
power supply = $20
hardware = $20+
printed parts = $25
That's $265+ without frame, wire, couplers, pullies, belts, wire wrap, 608 bearings, on/off switch, ect.
>>
>>1697904
>g502
>2 buttons
the g502 is really nice for cad, the gshift mode(hold/toggle mode that can be used as a macro shift) lets you set up 3d nav keys all with the same mouse profile (also can be used as a holdable button for an ahk setup), has the infinite zoom scroll like the master mouse and has an extra index finger button. the software also can auto enable the bindings to what you're running, I use it between blender and resolve, so changing profiles automatically is nice. also has onboard profiles for people who use a laptop or something, I dont tho.

that 3d mouse has gotta do more than two custom buttons for 120 bucks and have more consumer software support before I buy, ill keep my eyes peeled for used pro versions on sale tho.
>>
So I've finally got my new Ender 3 board with advanced stepper drivers coming in, and was wondering about "sensorless homing". Supposedly the stepper drivers can detect when they stall, and thus you don't need an external sensor to notice when you've bumped into an endstop.
Does this work for the Z axis too? More specifically, is it going to be gentle enough to let me do auto-homing on a glass bed without breaking anything?

I was going to keep the old sensors on (buttons for X and Y, BLTouch for Z), but my shoddy BLTouch clone conked out and died on me and I thought I could save some money (domestic shops have insane prices and there are big import tariffs on everything from China)
>>
>>1698071
Buy a new sensor. Sensorless works well for X and Y, but it can only trigger when you miss a step forcefully. The Z on your ender uses a lead screw, which means that there's going to be a lot more force exerted on the bed. It's also not as accurate as a BLTouch. Also, since it makes hard contact with the bed, and the bed is on springs, it's going to push the bed back different distances depending on just where it's poking (near a screw it goes far, in the middle it goes not far...).
>>
>>1698071
>>1698115
also the z axis needs to be precice due to mesh reasons and first layer consistancy, why I still use an Al bed.
>>
>>1698115
this, having written some of the sensorless homing code.
>>
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>>1697971

I went the full reprap way years ago and got someone from the reprap IRC to print the plastic parts and send them to me. I ended up spending more money than if i just bought a factory-made kit because printing a full parts set takes up a lot of time and nobody wants to bother doing it unless the price is tempting.

In those days the usual premade printer you could get was something like an Printrbot LC which was inferior to the designs on the reprap wiki, so it made sense at the time. Nowadays with cheap and reliable enough printers like the Ender3 you're better off just finding a broken one on eBay and fixing it for max cost savings. They're not complicated systems.
>>
>>1698338
How curious, I'm 100% certain I had the Printrbot LC as well, but I did not have the fan on front, and my Y-carriage was of a different design; I also had plastic extruder gears.

I really should fix up that old thing, I don't see a reason why it wouldn't still work...
>>
>>1698339

I dont think you understood, i said that i went for sourcing a reprap because the best ready-made thing you could get at a decent price was the Printrbot LC or similar. Maybe yours is a different revision?
>>
>>1698340
Sorry, I didn't actually process your post and was reminiscing about my first printer, which was very similar to the one you posted; I wasn't trying to answer any of your questions, apologies for any misdirection
>>
>>1697971
Get an Ender3. Brand new "legit" (non-knockoff) Ender3's still drop as low as $150 from time to time. At this point everything possible fix has already been done and documented, so you could definitely buy a used/broken one and fixing it up too.

If you aren't in a rush to buy a printer, I'd ultimately suggest just scouting craigslist/kijiji/facebook groups for a deal. A lot of people sell their printers after minimal use because they're too brainlet to fix the issues that come with owning one
>>
>>1697507
There's at least some over on /tg/'s pdf share threads.
>>
Are the resin from resin printers still an irritant/toxic even after being cleaned & cured?
Asking because I was considering selling minis but don't want to end up getting sued because some jackass had his dick rot off.
>>
>>1692972
I will build an Snappy 3.0 as an uni project (I will always buy filament and electronics to keep it), any tips?
I am fresh new but have been lurking here and watching YT videos
>>
Guys help

Ever since got 3d printer, cat piss and shit everywhere and hiss at printer
Turn off printer, cat chill again

How do i use the printer now
Fuck
>>
>>1698792
>so beta your cat pisses all over you belongings

Check out this faggot
>>
>>1698792
>heated bed
>fun plastic strings
>something to stare at

get some trinamic drivers or end your cats
>>
>>1698693

Was cured resin ever an irritant? I don't recall any mention of it.
>>
I am tired of my shit skipping steps every time i look at it wrong
So i want to replace my z axis motor that is now nema 17 with a nema 23
I can drill new hole and stuff no problem to mount the motor, but how about the connection? can i simply plug the motor into the board and it will work without any adjustments needed?
the step count per one rotation is the same as the nema 17 i have now
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>>1693018
try moving the nozzle closer to the bed by 1/2mm or more if needed so the first layer is flat
also you can try raising the bed temp to 70C for pla
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>>1698841
Worst case your stepper driver lets the smoke out.
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>>1698844
I assume that from the driver point of view the only difference is the current correct? so as long as the driver can handle the current i should be fine
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>>1698846
Mosty. You also have to care about violtage. If the stepper is ment for say 36V your driver probably won't be able to make the current flow. However in that case your motor will just not/not propperly run.
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>>1698792
I got an ender 3 with one of the old boards so it's loud as shit, my cats don't give a fuck.
Get a SKR board with silent steppers, and give them pieces of bent filament to play with, and put a filament sponge on your extruder so cat hair dont get in the bowden tube
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Hey, does anyone here know how to use solidworks? I'm trying to make a wing for an airplane, but I can't figure out how to "fillet" the wingtip. I want it to have a smooth edge. I've used a cut-extrude to get the right shape, but I just can't get the edge smooth. I've tried everything in the fillet tools and following YouTube guides on boundary surface but still with no success.
Pic related, it's the wing. Basically instead of the edge being |_| shaped I want it to be a smooth U.

Link to the part file here in case you need a closer look at the thing. https://filebin.net/oaextjt33c9groqv
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>>1699216
wtf airfoil is this?
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>>1696118
Hotkeys are shit on Windows.
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>>1699239
Clark Y. It looks weird because of the cut-extrude which goes in a quarter circle, onto a thirty degree angle straight, onto another quarter circle. Seen from the side it's a perfectly normal foil. What I need is basically to round the tip off, like in this thing. https://www.flight-manuals-online.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/Saab-29-photo.jpg
My cut is similar to that but a bit elongated, but without the rounded tip it looks like pure shit.
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>>1698841
Why not just bigger nema 17 with more torque?
Gussing yours are 40mm or less(generally, longer = more torque)
Your drivers have an adjustment on them? you could try turning up the current a bit.
You could also try turning dow the z speed and/or accel.
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>>1699216
>solidworks
>a software where spasmodically zooming in and out is the standard method of panning
Eww, fuck no.
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>>1699264
>Why not just bigger nema 17 with more torque?
interesting
how much extra torque are we talking about?
my printer is chinkshit and uses the same nemas as i guess any other chink printer
the drivers are those red A something that also every chink printer uses, but i am prepared to upgrade
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>>1699343
wait, if i only want to replace one motor, can i also only replace only one driver? or do all 4 drivers must be the same?
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>>1699343
>>1699344
Both Z's are probably driven with a single A4988
So, the Z motors should be a matched set.
I've seen 37oz/in to 84 oz/in torques for nema 17
You could turn up the current to a max of 2 Amps(if you actually need that much) and run a pair of the ones on the right of pic related.(Heatsink needed on the drivers for >1 Amp)
Or, if the motors are the same as X&Y, and the Z motor is actually bad, you could swap XorY with the bad Z motor and add a new motor for XorY

Have you tried turning up the current on the driver?
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>>1699216
cut it again with U shaped sketch from Front plane
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>>1699357
The motor isn't bad, just too weak for the z carriage so it sometimes skips steps when moving fast
It's only one motor, anyway, i want to throw out the shit a4988 anyways and replace them with the cool tmc something ones that have sensorless homing because i am retarded and crash into things all the time and this is a great way to stop the steppers when the crash instead of them doing the scary jack hammer noises
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>>1699358
Wouldn't work. The U shaped cut would need to be swept along the path of the edge and take its width from the section it's currently passing over. I have no idea how to do that.
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Have you printed any tools?
I printed some radius gauges.
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>>1699216
You remove the though-hole and select the wingtip surface, then use the fillet tool. It will add a radius to all the edges at whatever dimension you specify. Then you can re-add the through-hole.
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>>1699400

I print router templates fairly often.
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>>1699421
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>>1699419
Dude, I feel so stupid right now.
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>>1698841
It's not about your motors, those things are plenty strong
the issue is your drivers, or rather your driver settings
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>>1699343
Turn that little pot on the driver clockwise
Turning z-screws should not be any problem even for the flattest of nema 17's
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>>1699446
>>1699419
Nope, didn't work.
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>>1699512
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>>1699537
It looks like you can't simply because the profile is based on a spline that's too complicated.

I right-clicked both of the splines in the two sketches used to make the loft. I then simplified both from 68 points down to 33. I had to delete some of the relationships between both sketches to clear an error.

With a simplified spline for the wingtip it then allowed me to add a fillet to the edges, provided I did the edges separately at working sizes and turned OFF tangent propagation. That feature was trying to roll the fillet across most of the wing surface.

https://filebin.net/qpwfkcu1r14sh0j9

https://filebin.net/qpwfkcu1r14sh0j9
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>>1699541
that would prolly be just fine
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>>1699512

Yeah i've never heard of skipping steps on Z, anon's problem is perplexing and it may not be related to motor torque. Maybe their leadscrews are so crooked that they create a lot of friction?
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>>1699543
Not for me. I have a 4mm pitch Z screw.
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>>1699551
even that would still probably be just fine
i mean think about it, the rotor turns a whole 360° for just 4mm of movement
>>1699548
To have sufficient friction your screws would have to be visibly bent to utter shit
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>>1699400
Yeah, if you count a dust brush as a tool
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Dunno if this belongs in /3dp/ or /EMT/, so I'll just post in both threads: where do I find a small CNC router to make pistol grips with? Doesn't need to be a speed machine, just an ol' reliable that eventually gets the job done.
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Would it be possible to print a new plastic holder/clip for a broken sun visor in an old Car? Just looked at the new prusa
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>>1699542
Ah, I see! Thanks for the effort. I was actually able to do this much more easily, after asking a friend who studied architecture and knows CAD. What I did was just remove the stuff at the edge of the wing so I had a flat surface, and then use Dome on the face with Continuous Dome turned off. The profile isn't entirely 100% right, but it's close enough.
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>>1699548
I have seen what looks a lot like skipping z-axis steps, but from a different cause: poorly heatsinked drivers or too high of a current setting can make the z-axis drivers overheat. They'll work for a bit, then over heat, then they "miss a few steps" and fail on the layer change, then they cool back down enough to run again.
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>>1693008
I had this problem recently with an Ender 3, I had tilted the hotend when changing the nozzle and it was not perfectly perpendicular to the bed anymore
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>>1693511
>reverse image search
>zero results
Legendary
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and the first print on photon was fucked
1 out of the 5 models were printed almost properly
1 was 1/3 printed then got stuck on the fap film
3 didnt stick to the plate

guess i'll clean and double check everything next
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>>1699342
There's no fucking way Solidworks doesn't have a pan function, this just sounds asinine. That's beyond Autodesk-tier bullshit. And yet, I wouldn't be entirely surprised.
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>>1699421
>>1699424
Neat. I should make some templates. Coathooks?
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>>1699802
Check if your film has a film on it, I've heard some have protective coatings when they're first unboxed that fuck with printing. also clean your printbed thoroughly with isopropyl to make sure the resin sticks, might be some leftover oils or something
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>>1699642
You can do it all anon, just need to make or find the design
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>>1699820
it does, its like shift/centermouse or ctrl/center mouse
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>>1699548
>Yeah i've never heard of skipping steps on Z
because i am not 3d printing but rather replaced the extruder with a motor and a drill and use it for engraving so it needs more strength
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If a motor description says for example "Rated current: 2A" is that peak or rms?

Since i want to use the tmc2130 which has rms current limit 1.2A but peak limit 2.5A
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>>1699870
Check the datasheet for it.
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>>1699870

Steppers are rated by maximum continuous current.
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>>1699876
fug, so i can't use the tmc2130 then, that's gay
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>>1699828

Barrel hooks, pic related is from a 20mm Vulcan, the one I forgot to get one of is from an M2 machine gun.
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>>1699878

Also, bonus, 3D printed M134 minigun marrel mounts.



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