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I can't find the other one - I search for sqtddtot, and it shows me 3, I can find 1 and 3, but not the second one. I'll delete this if another one exists.

So in last weeks exciting episode, my water heater caught on fire. I had it replaced, the smell was gone... today I'm in there and it smells like cooking plastic again. Turn off the breakers, air it out, and no more smell. I'm afraid to turn the power back on.

Could my 240v line be delivering fucked up power that is now frying my new water heater? I got ~120 on each rail ( I think I'll need to double check ) , but that seemed normal. The contractor didn't know which of the two live wires connected to which of the two coming out of the water heater - but it seems like it doesn't matter for a water heater.

I assume I call an electrician in to figure out what is going on, but really curious if there is some obvious shit I'm missing here, like maybe the wires were burned further up into the walls, and they start to smell when they get heated or whatever.

Someone suggested looking at the fuse box with a thermal imager, which I don't have, to see if that line is hotter than the others. I could probably do that with some sort of thermometer.
Order a thermal camera from Amazon; you can get ones that plug into the phone. That and an volt-meter will help you locate the issue.
>I'll delete this if another one exists.
Don't bother, there is too much stupid on this board to contain in one thread anyways. At least you properly titled it, unlike the other two.
>The contractor didn't know which of the two live wires connected to which of the two coming out of the water heater - but it seems like it doesn't matter
Right. In the US, our 240 comes from the two different hot bars in the breaker box, and there is no orientation or polarity to worry about.
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I've been collecting panties for quite some time now, have a few more bags in closet. Currently I'm using these as a pillow to recline in bed.
My dream for years has been to have a blanket entirely made out of panties and [thing that in the darkness binds them]. How2blanket? I don't mean like a boring ass quilt or some grandma ass hack where I stitch them to a blanket. It has to be pantietastic. Like a mountain of panties that just stay together to keep warm and block daylight when trying to sleep. In case I have more than enough what else would be super cool to have made out of panties?

A few ideas I had
>stitching together ends to make two layers, then have outer surface with lots of panties only stitched on crotch or side seam so it's floppy, make it a couple layers thick
>get elastic cord and just tie a bunch together semi loosely in bundles of three or more
>keep collecting until it would be easier to make a bedframe like a ballpit and burrow in the pantie pit bed to sleep
>getting laid

Obviously that last one is the worst idea of the bunch, but other three don't quite seem right. I don't know how to go forward here with the project. Also have a shitload of gowns, babydolls, slips, chemises, and bras that accumulate from the weirder lots. Will probably just resell them since some stuff like Olga gowns go for $50+ and I have no idea how much I've spent on this. More creative ideas always welcomed. Maybe sew them to make underground bunker to grow weed sextoys with no tools /diy/bingo in.
>I've been collecting panties for quite some time now

How specifically? Turn power back on and look for hotspots? Will I be damaging my new water heater?
You’ve negged the obvious ideas. Isn’t it important to maintain the original smell? Or can they be washed? Does it have to be a blanket or can it be more like a multi tiered shade structure?
it's just panties, not body parts

No washing, I don't even wash my regular blanket because autism and I don't like change. But original smell not so important either, majority of my acquisitions were from clean clothes so it's a different kind of perviness we're dealing with here. Fades too quick anyway so I focus on the feel. A princess bed canopy sounds interesting, I might just have to use that idea.
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I'm looking at houses to rent and came across this "finished" basement. What is this brick structure? There is no chimney on the outside of the house in that location. The house was built in 1987 so it's unlikely there was a chimney that was later removed. If it was a fireplace at one time, what's with the odd bricks in front? If I were to rent this house (the ground level is normal), how should I make use of or decorate around this weirdness?
I read that the polarity can matter with certain equipment, like multiphase motors or some crap.
sacrifical altar
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Hey guys I need help. Ive done some searching but im still not entirely sure what to do. I have a pedestal sink. The top part or the "bowl," I suppose, has detached itself from the wall. The screws came out of the wall along with the adhesive as pic related shows. What is a good long lasting solution to this? Do I just need to get thicker screws and then apply some type of adhesive to the back surface of the sink? The screws aren't very thick, their diameter is about 1/4 of that of a penny's. Is their a certain type of screw I should use? Hanger bolt? Anchor screw? (I don't know anything). Would silicon adhesive do the trick?
>That pile of panties
>Those fucking dolls
>A copy of a missal
How old were you when you were first molested?
looks like they built a hearth or almost... it looks like shit. in many states fire code demands you have a thermal barrier between a woodstove and the wall. then again that doesnt look like fire brick.
What is the wall made out of?
Id throw some winged anchors in the wall and seal it up with some osi. Call it a day

>So in last weeks exciting episode, my water heater caught on fire. I had it replaced, the smell was gone... today I'm in there and it smells like cooking plastic again. Turn off the breakers, air it out, and no more smell. I'm afraid to turn the power back on.

Call the company you bought it from and ask them to send a service electrician. You have a warantee for a reason. Having different / more service people in allows the water heater company to blame others for their fuck up.

>Could my 240v line be delivering fucked up power that is now frying my new water heater? I got ~120 on each rail ( I think I'll need to double check ) , but that seemed normal.

Just a reminder you are on an anonymous message board dedicated to sexualized cartoons that guys masturbate so....

Shouldn’t. The breakers are there to protect the wiring. This is the question your water heater electrician should be looking at. I would not offer that as a possibility. Something is getting hot that shouldn’t be. My expectation is a crap connection at the water heater, considering your next statement...

>The contractor didn't know which of the two live wires connected to which of the two coming out of the water heater - but it seems like it doesn't matter for a water heater.

Jesus Christ......

Ask for a service electrican from the company who you purchased your water heater from. Tell them you currently have the water heater powered off.

Your electrical panel worked for this long without issues. I would be looking at the quality of the install / the hot water tank before the electrical panel.
>[thing in the darkness that binds them]
based occult anon
Ok so I call Rheems and ask them to send someone out? Do we tell them my last water heater caught on fire?

>crap connection to water heater
I watching him do it. Just twisting two wires together with a cap went rocket science. Plus ground.

Opened up panels on water heater no smell t all. I’m thinking that when the line arced / shorted the first t8me it must have burnt the wires. SO now when there Is electricity or heat the smell comes off it.

>Your electrical panel worked for this long without issues

Well it could have been the reason the first water heater caught on fire.
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>go downstairs to have a shower
>this has happened at some point during the day
What the hell is going on? The tiles were fine this morning and I thought this might have been due to a bath I had last night, but there was no water leakage onto the tiles and no water in between the tiles and ground when I took some off
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>pictures uploading sideways
If I bolt a pull up bar into the brick above my doorframe with plugs will it hold? not a diy guy
bolts are 3inch by 10mm

Whoever laid the tile didn't put a gap between them and the wall. Floors need space to expand and contact with temperature fluctuations. When they don't have space, the floor proceeds to kill itself as shown
Ok, creep
A wood or coal stove used to be there anon.
>into the brick
Make sure you use the proper anchors. And depending how it is built, use your brain and make sure you aren’t stressing old brittle mortar in some strange way it wasn’t meant to be moved.
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should i just ask my dad and stepmom to borrow their little greenhouse instead of fucking around trying to put plastic around this shitty balcony?
just need a few more degrees so my tomatoes and peppers mature before it gets below 10c this month
Just bring them in at night.
i dont have any fucking space in my 1 room apartment
plus it's too fucking cold during the days aswell sometimes
They will be fine without being outside every day, it is just like a cloudy day to them, and you can manage the temporary loss of space.
what part of "NO SPACE INSIDE" dont you understand?
You have space, you've just convinced yourself that you don't.
no, you convinced yourself, fuck off if you're not going to answer the actual question.
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Okay, here's your fucking answer. No, you should not disappoint your father any more than you already do, by begging to use something he bought for himself to use for his own plants. Get the plastic sheeting and put it up around your "balcony". Make sure the edges are sealed and add a heat source because the internal and external temps will equalise in a couple of hours without it. Physics is a bitch. As you would know if you weren't such a faget. Happy now?
>assuming shit out of your ass
alright sweety here's the deal. i work for my dad, he's quite proud of me, he doesnt use the fucking greenhouse, my stepmom barely uses it for two half dead plants and a grape vine and it has plenty of space left, the question wasnt how to encase my balcony, as you would know if you could read. kys, fucking useless niggers all of you.
>alright sweety
Stopped reading there. Faget.
as expected from a retard that dont know how to read.
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>dont know how to read.
>dont know
At least I know how to write.
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>thinks a tiny grammatical error is worse than not being able to read
>Ok so I call Rheems and ask them to send someone out?
call whoever you bought if from - not the manufacturer

I'm a redneck and we have a saying,"He's prolly just snakebit."
It means you were bitten recently (by the fire) so you're overly sensitive to snakes now.
You may be smelling the 'new wearing off'
new water heater, fresh paint, recently molded plastic parts...
Anything that smells 'different' makes you think it's about to catch fire again.

Turn it back on and pay attention to where any smell is actually coming from.
Get a $10 laser thermometer and point it to different areas to see which spots are hot and if they're hotter than normal.
>misses the fact that I read his """grammatical error"""" just fine
Cope harder, faget.
gratz, you're only 95% retarded.
project harder, retard.
You're probably correct but it seems like a weird choice for a daylight basement built in the late 80s. We're retro wood stoves a passing fad during that period?
If I end up renting it, might use it as a platform for a video pinball machine.
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I have one of these beauties and am looking to throw a mikuni style carb on it.
How do I know what size is best?
Idk its just a regular wall.

Okay thank you so much ill try it
Yeah I can see the whole snakebit thing. Hope that's all it is. I turned it on about an hour ago, have checked a few times, and no smell, so that seems good.

good call on the laser thermometer... I can spot check the fuse box and look if those wires are hotter, yeah?

If I do smell it again, we are just shutting it down and calling an electrician.
Whatever is the opposite of what the faggot says.
Less of a question and more in need of a place to vent:

Why the fuck is every electronics discussion place on the internet so god damn retarded?
Whenever the topic of deliberate shocks comes up everyones autism spikes and they freak the fuck out, even when discussion toys for children because "an electric shock is never safe". Fuck off, nothing is ever safe, if I safety was my only concern I'd not leave the house, what goddamn standart is that?

I get not wanting to discuss home made tazers or similar retarded shit but a harmless shock is just that, harmless. By stopping people from discussing the topic they don't stop people from building this shit, they only stop sensible people from talking about it resulting in those shitty youtube videos where people who have no idea what they are doing modify animal collars or worse. I'm so fucking done with everyone, if I want to build retarded shit they won't stop me, all they are doing is stopping me from doing my due dilligence beforehand.
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Whats the best brand for glow in the dark spray paint ?
the problem starts at 'the nanny state'
they're retarded autists that dont know shit. back in college we got to play with a static charge generator that went to like 20k volts and shock ourselves. also back in grade school we had a cow pen with electric fence that we used to make a chain of kids with and one touched it so it went thru everyone else. last kid got the worst shock lol. fun stuff.

those fuckers you talk about never got a proper education on the subject and dont know what's actually safe and what's not.
You are right, I was just really fucking angry at it when I wrote the post, similarly to you we used to touch electric animal fences etc, didn't these people have a childhood? All this archieves is stop normal people from doing due dilligence while dumb people have less info to not kill themselves.
where the fuck is the homebrew thread?
make one.
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What would /diy/ suggest for a first multimeter?
A Fluke would be a nice investment, but I would rather get a cheap-but-quality meter to familiarize myself with electronics first, then buy a 87V later on when I am knowledgeable enough. The 117 doesn't have mA.

I'm leaning towards the EEVblog Brymen BM235 Multimeter. It seems adequate enough for a beginner like me. Are there any alternatives?
try out the UNI T multimeter

they are kinda good, kinda crap, but good

Like it more than the budget POS fluke that rossman suggested the b81 or something like that

LOVE my BK precision (the 100$ blue white one)
I need to make my own insulated cables, I have no clue where to start, how do I even purchase insulation to make the wires?
>how do I even purchase insulation to make the wires?
Fucking why. If you have to ask this you're probably totally unaware of a much better off-the-shelf solution than making your own insulated cables.
Heat shrink tubing is your best bet for /diy/ cable insulation IMO
dont want heat shrink, want to make something professional

there is something off the shelf that is better but there never is any stock avail. I want to make my work custom cables to sell
my *own custom cables to sell
well you'd start by searching for raw plastic suppliers, like pvc if you were doing pvc-clad cable. but there are other options, like silicone. you can also do a plastic-impregnated braid, lots of gimmick audio cables do this.
you need a cable extrusion machine and also a braiding machine if you're going that route
I live in a duplex and water came out of my sink drain and it was black and had shit like rice in it. I'm pretty sure my neighbor clogged his sink and it somehow fucked up ours. They eventually did something on their side that unclogged ours too and so we just dropped some draino down just to be safe but water came back up again now. Anything I can do for this sink clog situation? It was back to normal like an hour ago but it's clogged again, I used draino when it was unclogged and I tried to plunger to see if it'd fix it but it didn't. I think the situation is entirely dependent on my neighbor and not me, really hating my neighbors and the builders for building the house in a way that something like this can happen
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>home made
>without knowledge
well im never buying jack shit from you cus i dont want to burn alive in my own home
>make my work custom cables
like highend audio cables?

Don’t go super cheap where you want to upgrade in a month because it doesn’t have all the features you need. Also don’t go with complete chink shit because you want to have faith in the meter when probing at expensive electronics.

Don’t buy a Fluke for your first one. See what is important before spending $400 on a Fluke you will fry being stupid or even $150 for a Fluke that can’t do shit a $35 meter from Amazon can do.

My first real one was the Klein MM600, they’re like $70 from Home Depot. A few other people around here have them and like them. Sometimes I wish I spent another $20-$30 on the next higher up for a couple extra features I don’t need.

I have the Southwire because I wanted a DC clamp meter, but I heard good things about the $50 Uni-T if you want a clamp for lower DC current readings.

And the Hyper Tough is my favorite because I found it on clearance for $7 and it works great (after some modification to the body) and I don’t have to worry about fucking it up. My only regret with that is not buying the 2nd one left there for $7.
>tfw that list has so many brands I have never heard of
Are some of those chink brands? Or it’s different because those are EE meters while the Kleins and stuff are more like Home Depot contractor meters?

I kinda want an Amprobe or Extech next, a big guy that will live on my bench with every feature and then I will spill coffee all over it.
serious answer incoming; your best bet is to do a weave or loom.
Get some wood and make a frame that is as large as the blanket/cover you want. Take some tall nails and make "pegs" along the entire frame, with each peg having a matching peg across from it. All you would need to do at this point is attach each panty to one another on their sides, making a long line (like bunting) of the panties that you will use like twin. start from one peg and make several vertical lines. Then weave under and over laterally. Do this until you achieve desired thickness. Then all you have to do is secure the side either with stitching or tying.
Are there any places to buy driver boards for old Kindle displays? I can find articles about home made ones, but none for sale. I have a 3rd gen that died, but the display is perfect, and I'd much rather not just trash the whole thing. Looks pretty easy to use the keyboard and speakers in protects, and the battery is a no brainier.

I could easily afford a new eink display (a 7" of comparable resolution is well under $50), but this one works, so my inner penny pincher wants to use it.
Get a $20 one. You can play around and learn the basics. Expensive ones don't really give that much more accurate readings, they simply detect voltage and currents etc. on their own while cheap you have to have a rough idea first of what the voltage/current is so you can set it right and get the best accurate reading.
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Your best value is getting the Harbor Freight flyer, and getting the free digital multimeter. Assuming you're in close enough driving distance for this to be a good plan.

The difference between contemporary consumer expensive and cheap meters is mostly in QC and materials.
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How do you install those binding posts properly? What is the function of the parts pointed by blue arrows in picrel?
put the one on the left on the post, then through the hole in the case (hole should be between the two sizes you can see) then the plastic part n the right then the metal parts.

serves 2.5 purpose:
1: covers the hole in the case makes it look nice on the outside and spreads the load a bit like a washer.
2: most importantly if you use a metal case it keeps the metal parts insulated from each other!
if your post has a voltage rating this is one of the things it will relate to, the breakdown voltage of those plastic parts.
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where can i buy one of these adapters for 3$?
osh used to have them for $3 but they shut down
amazon has them for like $10 shipped
homedepot carries them for about $20 geeze
>The difference between contemporary consumer expensive and cheap meters is mostly in QC and materials
mine worked for a while, the the wires fell out of the probes so i super glued them back on and it kept working. worth the $3.99

You probably shouldn't be dealing with any kind of electrical device.
every day's a school day, you have to learn sometime. pretty easy to overlook until you try it. even using it on a plastic box isolation might just not cross your mind.
You paid money for that thing?

That’s another one of those items like the free blue lights. If you take them apart, a new one, a 6 month old one, a year old one, a 3 year old meter, you will see how they leave more parts out on each generation to save half a penny hear or there.

The last one I took apart, there was a couple tiny screws in the case and then literally every part flies everywhere if you open it up. On the older ones I believe the screen was held in by something more than the case.

Those $25 Innova ones on Amazon are great starter meters.

Anon got me looking at more meters. I want one with a bar graph that will show quick spikes, and one with LoZ just in case I need it.

Pic related looks sweet. Extech EX363 looks ok too, but I think it’s kinda small, it’s marketed as an HVAC meter. I wouldn’t mind a larger one with a real visible screen to see the bars.

There is an $80 meter/scope on Amazon that will show waveforms.
For $90, I might consider that big one. Can’t have too many meters!
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I am trying to figure out how to do something/what material to use. So I want to be able to mold a thin piece of a strong flexible plastic so that I can fold it up, but when needed, undo a basic clasp or band holding it together and have it return to its original shape, so like a bundle that when undone now unfolds and becomes a slat. Any idea on how to do this?
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I have an ammeter showing the current delivered to the device, which I'd like to be able to switch without interrupting the device operation. I was thinking about picrel, but I'm sure the whole current wouldn't bypass the ammeter through the switch. Any ideas on how to do that?
I was going to screw some isolators into fence posts for a cow and calf enclosure but the fucking chuck on the Metabo the farmer gave me doesn't open, so I can't insert the adapter. They had a Ryobi I've used instead, which only has one battery, and a Hitachi with two batteries but only 12V (so no good).
TL;DR: chuck fucked, or am I too stupid to unlock it? Is there a Masonic handshake for Metabo?
A bench multimeter. Fuck the handhelds. They're shit. I quite like the Fluke 8840A. It's 5.5 digit and you can typically find it for relatively cheap though it's often lacking the AC measurements option (Error 30 when you select AC or current or voltage measurement). Finding the optional add-on standalone is difficult if not impossible. Also it's sometimes missing the GPIB port inexplicably though that won't be too important to most hobbyists.
you need to find out what load resistance the meter presents to the circuit and then you can work it out vs the resistance of the switch as a voltage divider.
the current through the meter will be minimal, why is it important to you that its 0?

find a double throw make before break switch and use that to switch the meter in and out.
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The compact auto ranging ones were really popular a few years back, and more than good enough for most hobby and home use. I really liked mine, but it died when shit fell on it during a move.
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Is it simply really tight? It could be fucked, or seized? You might be able to replace the chuck if the rest of the drill is still good.

Are there any bench meters that won’t break the bank?

Hmmm I don’t need another meter but I wanna spend money. I love my mobile meter though, a bit large but I’ll take it considering it cost me as much as a pack of Newports.
>Are there any bench meters that won’t break the bank?

You don't buy them new. You grab one on ebay. And yes you can find them as low as $50 sometimes less if you're willing to do a repair. Up to $200 or so for a schmick one that's working.
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ive decided to recap my crt monitor because of some image issues it was having. on the neck board there are some of these caps without polarizing stripes on them, which is odd because there are some other obviously polarized caps that are the exact same value(1uf100v, pic related). am i good to replace both of these caps with polarized caps of the same value? or do i need to know what kind of cap the black one is and get that type?
u tho? be careful don't kill yourself ok?
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Anyone know the name of pic related cable tray things?
>Cable carriers, also known as drag chains, energy chains, or cable chains depending on the manufacturer,
thanks wiki!
Are handymen a meme? How do you become one?
For reasons I won't get into I want to heat a material until it reaches a pressure of 10 bar and only then allow it to expand.

My best bet right now is as follows:

Have a metal sphere out of two halves that I put the material in, put that sphere on a stand in a pressure chamber that can handle the 10 bars. pressurize the air around the sphere to 10 bar and heat the ball by using induction heating from outside the pressure chamber. Once the 10bar internally are reached, depressurize the chamber rapidly, allowing the material in the sphere to expand.

Here's the question:
How do I know when the internal pressure of 10 bar is reached?
I know when it's over 10 bar, obviously, but at that point the experiment is a failure already. I can't really know when it is almost exactly at 10 bar from outside.

If I don't come put with an idea to solve this I'll have to try to eyeball it or something and that seems unreliable at best.

Thanks for ideas
>Are handymen a meme? How do you become one?
Start calling yourself one. Congratulations, you're now a handyman. Nowhere I am aware of regulates or licenses the use of the title Handyman. Some jurisdictions do however regulate the services that a handyman typically would offer.
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Not a question but a video of the creation of a 500 lbs gingerbread house was just released.
excited for her, I liked the couch video, made it seem really easy.
looks dank can't wait to dig in
With the delicate work on some of the frosting, I wonder how the hell she is going to be able to move it all the way across the state without it falling apart of at least needing repair.
Not a huge project so I hope some anons can help me since I'm tired of looking and my options are pic related now and that shit is expensive.

I live in an apartment and I love having my window blinds open, problem is I have people regularly passing by since I'm on ground level.

I can't install frosted tint to my windows so I was thinking about getting just the tint and applying it to a large thin plastic sheet and putting it behind the blinders so I still get that privacy/sunlight but without messing with the windows.

Anyone know if this is a viable way to do things if so where can I get a large clear plastic sheet to do this?

Pic somewhat related, they want this much for a measly size. Too much.
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I'm planning to buy a kit to do some jobs, anything else i should have in mind or is this complete enough?
Also since this comes with solder with "flux core" this means i don't have to buy liquid flux right?
And since this comes with wick i don't need to use the silly pump thing right?

I will buy leaded solder wire later, for now i just need to fix something simple (Failing case USB port and a ITE I/O Chip with water damage from rat piss).
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Also this kind of generic iron uses the Chink hakko clone tips right?
And once the sponge goes bad can i replace it with a normal kitchen sponge or is it worth it to spend more in this?
Get flux anyway. It will be a pain in the ass without it.

And the sucker and wick are both good to have for different situations.
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Any recommendations when it comes to flux? i wanted to buy some Amtech flux because it had good reviews but its hard to get the original one in Mexico.
Pic related, what i can find locally and through amazon for cheap.
Just do whatever rosin flux. Most of it comes in a little round plastic tin, not a syringe. Clean off the excess with high % isopropyl alcohol.

Pic related is the one the guy at the electronic repair store sold me.
I think that one in your pic is a good company though. From my limited fuckery with the soldering iron, the flux is for the heat transfer, not for oxidation as much.
>Any recommendations when it comes to flux?
Any flux is better than no flux.
Don't get too expensive flux for home applications, because you want to use it relatively liberally. If you have the money get good flux obv. but before you use less because you want to save money I'd rather go with worse options.
The more important part is good solder, which should already include some flux in the material itself. I think EEV blog had a long video explaining good solder, just remember he's pretty elitist about the topic.
Also I wouldn't go with the shittiest solder wick because I had bad experiences with those.
So cheap solid flux it is then.
where can i buy dolly/handtruck wheels in person?
>i believe the axle dimension is .5in by 1.5in
and i looked up wheels online and found out its the same dimension as shopping cart wheels, but then when i got the shopping cart wheel, it did not fit.
In previous dwellings, I would typically leave out a pan of frying oil on the range to use on a near daily basis to cook various things. Now that I'm back in a dwelling situation where I can do that again, I've been confronted with a preexisting bug problem likely stemming from adjacent units. Does frying oil attract bugs and roaches? I'd rather not have to continually set up, fill, use, drain, store the oil out of and clean a frying pan or electric fryer seeing as even just oil left out in an open pan is good for nearly a month of light use as long as you don't cook fish or something.
Does anyone know of a book similar to the mechanisms and mechanical devices sourcebook, but dedicated to electronic components?
Absolutely disgusting
Which part, using oil for a week or living in a poorfag apartment with shit neighbors
Some kind of spring loaded hinge with a more rigid material for the surface area, I imagine
Do you have a Northern Tool near you? They sell lots of crap like that.
no northern tool. its a solid hard rubber wheel, i need to go re-measure the OD of the wheel
>Do you have a Northern Tool near you?

im in the SF bay area , no northern tool here. its a solid hard rubber wheel, i need to go re-measure the OD of the wheel
Ok, long story short, I am going to get a sprayer for my toilet, I would get a bedite, but it's either 20$ for a piece of shit, or 300$ for something that is minimally functional, where as a sprayer is functional at under 50$

my question is are toilets all standardised or do I need to fuck around with sizing pipes and shit?
Get a soldering station, one of the hakko clone ones, its FAR better then all in ones like the one you have there

get leaded solder right away, future you will thank you.

ket a tip kit so you have a variety of tips to use, some jobs need mass and a knife edge, some need a bit more precision.

solder wicks suck, but they do get the job done, the suck ones are more for through holes as those eat wicks like a motherfucker.

and yes, you will want to get flux.
I recommend you get some flux paste, something that is no clean works good, but as I didnt give a fuck I just needed flux, I went with a semi hard paste, I then shoved it into a syringe, nad have been using that since. as long as its non conductive its good.

as for the hakko solder shit, get brass or copper cleaning sponges and use those, you don't need a base station for it, but if you want tone it's not bad.

soldering station should cost you 20-30$
tip kit should cost 7
solder wick should cost 3-7
solder should cost under 10
copper/brass sponges should cost under 4$

personally solder stations are far less bullshit to deal with then stand along solder irons, so its worth the cost if you are going to solder more then once a year.
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second'd, tho i prefer the suckers. an old used weber is also great.
Will home depot or lowes shorten wooden desk legs for me? my desks sit a bit too high.
Probably not. If you buy lumber or plywood from Home Depot, they will make 2 cuts for free. Unless you get chummy with the manager or the guy in the lumber department, I doubt it.
do I need a credit card to rent argon cylinders?
Why would they want that? They might want a couple hundred deposit so a credit card makes more sense, but you should be able to get it if you have the cash.
Thank you
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So I bought pic related and I want to frame it. How would I go about replicating its effects while framed?
>be me, russian
>move/travel to another shithole
>go to walmart
>see "oven cleaner"
>go buy it
>spray on fucked up stainless steel cookware
>15 minutes later
>fucking_magic.exe, I thought only elbow grease will give such result

So, the question is, what the fuck it over cleaner? Also, gas escaped from a can (too aggressive shit, and I didn't care enough to wash the can after using), can I use it without gas?
It says on sticker "contains lye"... So I can do the same shit with lye (which is way cheaper), if I be careful to wear gloves?
>So, the question is, what the fuck it over cleaner?
What the fuck is this oven cleaner? Composition.
Here, let me google that for you.

>Why would they want that?
airgas are a bunch of jews
Tried ~5% lye, hurts hand the same way as oven cleaner. So it must be the same shit.
This is why slavs die young.
bruh, that's too big.
there is a lot of good shit you can get used, but the problem is finding the deal on the used thing. hakko clones are pumped out in such abundance that its relatively easy to find new ones.

I should mention that you never leave this shit plugged in as it uses a significant amount of power, and I would never trust china stuff to just be plugged in. personally I have my solder shit on a kill switch, along with most of my higher power electronics that I dont keep an eye on and don't need to be on.
The rental price is less than the cost of the cylinder. It's like renting other things. They want some assurance that you won't disappear with their stuff.
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EGR bypass for coolant. How to do it? Make a bridge pipe and stuck both hoses to it or a new hose?
That’s why I’m saying you could probably get it without a credit card if you’re willing to leave a cash deposit.
If it chooches it's right
are there any executive chairs/desk chairs that have a mechanism that is capable of being disassembled to some extent?

Im honestly sick of trying to grease/lube the metal so it doesn't squeak and not being able to do it properly so it constantly needs re application with a fingers crossed it seeps in deep enough to matter this time.
What's the minimum diameter and thickness for a steel tube to make a structure that can handle 160 kg easily and accept threading?
I want to do a loft bed from pipes, and I want to assemble it to flanges via threaded sections. I weight less than 160 kg, but I want to have that margin for peace of mind.
When removing an old toilet in a house i moved into(it was gross af) i had to break the ceramic around the bolts to get the fucking thing out. all went well, until i removed the toilet and started cleaning up the broken bits left over. i knocked 2 medium sized pieces into the drain and they have disappeared into the abyss. we have a septic tank, am i just....good? or do i need to get under a gross house and start pulling apart some pipes?? i can't see the pieces as they followed the curve but i'm almost certain they were small enough to not get stuck unless there's a significant pipe size decrease for some reason.
and advice would be appreciated.
Put the new toilet in and start using it.
If it clogs up, you know what to look for.
fair enough thanks
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Looking to run a few outlets in a garage from one flush mounted outlet.
Nothing will require high voltage, namely small batteries and a sprinkler system.
1. How do I extend the box?
2. Do I need conduit or can I run metal clad?
Please and thank you.
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Handyman says to pull the existing box, drywall over it, and then screw a box in front of it.
That doesn't seem very handy
Seriously though, just get some yarn or some shit and tie them all together chainmail style. If you make 2-3 blankets and put them on top of one another, you should get good coverage.
That's stupid. There should be extension boxes you can buy that you screw on top of the original box. Naturally you take out the guts/outlets of the existing box, so you can put them on the extension, then you knock out a hole and shove your conduit pipe in.
I have an air compressor with a ge 240vac 5hp motor. Every once in a while when it starts after like a second after it starts rotating there's a tiny spark I can see around the back (non shaft side) of the rotor. It only lasts a fraction of a second and it's not a super bright and intense high current spark. Im pretty sure it has a centrifugal start doodad so it has to be related to it, but is it normal for it to spark like that?
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Thanks - found an article about raceway aka wiremold.
I don't care for the look, but my FIL likes it and I'm returning a favor.
Only odd thing is it says to use 14 THHN instead of Romex.
My phone's case has turned a slight reddish brown only on the corners and sides, and I don't understand why. It spends most of it's time on my bed or in my pocket.
How do I clean it?
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Guess the Romex would be hard to fish or too big.
Your pants are dirty, and it probably rubs with each step. Try soap and water then rubbing alcohol.
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What happened here? How should I make it flush? Im thinking the old trim was thicker and they didn't account for that. Ive never installed or messed with electrical box so don't know what to expect.
>is it normal for it to spark like that?
Yes, it's the contacts opening.
You tell us what happened here.
Your house? New house?
That didn't do anything.
Actually, I found that the case is ABS covered in a layer of white silicone rubber, and I noticed that the phone is mostly screen-side up on the bed.
The browning was typical discoloration caused by UV in the sun, and this explains the pattern of the corners being more sharply browned than the rest.
As far as I can tell, there's no retr0bright technique for silicone rubber so I just have to deal with it. Maybe buy a case that isn't white.
My house. House is from the 30s. Picture is from attic renovation done maybe 15yrs ago. Not sure. Other rooms in attic have different trim that is flush. That's why I think that when they installed this they didnt accoubt for thickness and said "ah well".
>14 THHN instead of Romex
Shouldn't matter as long as the gauge is correct for what it's attaching to. I guess Romex has extra sheathing that's not really needed if it's in conduit, but the ground wire isn't insulated.
You could use what you have available but go with their suggestion if you're having to buy wire anyway.

Have you decided how the sprinkler system is going to be attached?

Turn off power at the fuse box for that room, mark off the interfering trim, get a sharp chisel and a hammer, then chisel away the trim. Light taps, hold the chisel as vertical as possible. Alternatively, you can take off the trim pieces around it and cut them somewhere else, they look relatively short.
Then find out the electrical box is as far back as it will go because the retards nailed it in like that. You might have to get an 'old work' box to replace it so it stays flush with the wall.
If true, any remodeler should get his ass handed to him for that.
In your pic, the plate cover is screwed into the outlet which doesn't look like it's screwed into anything.
Throw the breaker if you're a pussy, then look if there is a box behind it.
Likely you'll need either an extender box or a new box, then cut the baseboard out.
If you have kids like the no-fun plugs suggest, keep them out of that room.
Decided about the sprinkler system
It's a premounted system, they just had an extension cord that ran 20 feet and are fed up with looking at that.
>Pic boarder line related
>14 THHN instead of Romex.
Romex is bulkier and stiffer than THNN.
The tray doesn't allow a lot of room and the corners are 90 degrees instead of rounded bends.
If you have Romex and want to use it, strip off the sheath and paper filler.
You really should use an insulated ground wire if you do.
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That's a great idea if I don't want to buy THHN, but he's paying and seems to be the type that likes to pay top dollar and somehow that translates into being a better solution.
Green seems to be an expansion box.
Red is where you should cut. If you have an oscillating saw, you'd be done in 2 minutes.
It looks like a one hour job that may be a headache and take half a day.
The main question is if there is a box back there.
If there is, you gotta adjust the depth of the expansion box. IIRC, you can adjust the depth by screwing the expansion box into the other box.
If there isn't a box, go get on old work box and you're done (minus the large drywall cutout which the plate isn't going to cover.
Post more pics, it shouldn't be that big of an issue. Pay attention to how tight the wires are connected. If someone was dumb enough to do this, they're dumb enough to not tighten the wires.
Thought you might have to worry about some indoor to outdoor transition fuckery. Probably best not to give the guy any more ideas if the line to the sprinklers looks janky.
>Throw the breaker if you're a pussy
There's no need to be a cunt just because you're on 4channel.
Around here, residential sparkies don't bother throwing the breaker for small things like this. It's 110v. Just don't touch both of the terminals.
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Want to make an aquarium with a water fall. Pump will be directly under the "mountain" that will then flow into a fall. I'm getting mixed information on the pump and how powerful it should be. I have a 20 gallon tank, and want to have a decent flow, but not much current as the waterfall will flow to the opposite end of the aquarium to promote circulation.

Will a 120 gph pump be ok? Will this come shooting out of the top of the "mountain" or will it have a steady be reasonable trickle?
120gph is 2 gallons per minute, or 2oz per second. How fast it shoots out will depend on the output nozzle size.
So a 1/2" open ended tube will probably have a bit of an arch to the outflow, huh? 2oz per seconds seems quick.
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Is it difficult to lay and install snap-in/lock-in wood flooring by yourself if you've never done it before? My house flooded and the flooring is one of the only things that got ruined; I'm considering laying down wood-type flooring instead of carpet in my bedroom.
>2 gallons per minute, or 2oz per second.

128 oz x 2 = 256 oz per minute
256/60=4.67 oz per second
some people couldn't do it even with practice
some people do a great job the first time
who can say what it will be for you...
What's a preferable alternative? I really dont want to go back to carpet, and I'd assume that tile would be even easier to expensively fuck up
Tile is not a 'first time' job.
Buy the wood and see how you do.
If you can't do it, get some help.
If you do it yourself and do a good job, pat yourself on the back.
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Where do you get casting resin in Australia?

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