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File: collage.jpg (523 KB, 1800x1800)
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>Prusa Prusa Prusa edition

Old thread: >>1657190

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/7Sb4TVdy

>Need help with prints? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Bed & extruder temperature
>Print speed

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 7-9-2019]
Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 3
Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3 (Mk2 or Mk3)
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot or Ultimaker
Buyer beware: some chinkshit clones are garbage. Some can be genuinely good, though.
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusion 360 are free:
https://www.blender.org/
https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/
>>
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First for Purple Pew Pew
>>
>>1662144
Neat
>>
For the benefit of someone who just bi the bullet on an anycubic photon(the elegoo mars i wanted was too much of a pain to get here). Does anyone have any thoughts on the plant based resin they are showing off. Will it print well without too many fumes or is it some fad?
>>
To the anon who recommended epoxy to glue PLA together:
While a bit harder to use than ABS and acetone, it did a good job. Will post pictures once everything is in place
>>
>>1662292
PLA glues really well with just about anything.
>>
>>1662203
There are no photoinitiators that aren't bad for you/nature
>>
So I tightened the rollers on my cr-10s's print bed (because the bed was rocking side to side) and now when i print anything the back right corner of whatever is printing doesn't adhere even though the nozzle is leveled. what did I fuck up and how Could i fix it? thanks
>>
>>1662462
Perhaps could be as simple as you got some oil (from your hands) on it when you were working on it. Try washing it with soap and either air drying or drying it with a lint and oil free rag.
>>
Does /3DPG/ have a favorite resource for learning to model with F360? I've have my printer for more than a year now and while it's been fun to mess around with I decided it's time I stop being lazy and actually learn the CAD software.
>>
>>1662142
>tfw finally finished building anet a8
>get weird ripples on first print
>eventually realize y-belt is skipping
>tighten it
>now z-axis makes grinding noise


how tight are the belts supposed to be? also how can I speed up a print, I don't want to leave the printer running overnight because I'm worried about it catching on fire, I haven't gotten any of the safety upgrades done yet.
>>
what printers around 1k allow me to expand the bed? i need ideally 1.5m x 50cm x whaever height
>>
>>1662527

Disable steppers and move it with your hand. Should be tight enough that there's some resistance and no wiggling, but loose enough to be movable with one finger. Basically just tight enough not to wiggle plus a little extra.
>>
>>1662497
YouTube specifically Lars Christensen. His videos can be repetitive, but he is good at showing you how Fusion 360 works.
>>
>>1662530
For that price, probably self-built. Most I've seen in that range are "Professional" printers where there's diminishing returns, useless gimmicks, and no real benefit.
>>
>>1662596
oh well, if i have to. im surprised it isnt easy to just have a conversion kit for cheaper printers
>>
>>1662581
Thanks I'll check him out.
>>
>>1662601
You end up spending four times as much as the printer cost to basically replace everything on it.
>>
>>1662530
>around 1k
>1.5m
none, build your own:
reprap.org
>>
>>1662625
hmm ok, is the software good?
>>
>>1662629
>is the software good?
what software?
write your own or use something like marlin:
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin
>>
>>1662631
wait so rerap isnt software. ok then. i havent interfaced with hardware before so this will be fun
>>
>>1662633
>>1662633
>wait so rerap isnt software. ok then.
it is more or less an open source "printer", and a printer roughly consists of hardware, electronics, and software.
>this will be fun
indeed!
>>
>>1662625
man that website is pretty outdated, a shame
>>
>>1662658
their forum is still active
>>
>>1662530
Do you really need that build size? Filling it is going to take days, the risk of failure is massive, so you're better off sectioning huge prints like that. Then you can buy two or three smaller printers instead of a single huge one, and more nozzles also means more volume per time (basically, your model gets printed in less time) and if one of the small prints fails, the rest can keep on churning. Around 1K would be enough for two CR-10S5's (500^3mm) or three AC Chirons (400^3mm).
>>
>>1662530
>i need ideally 1.5m x 50cm x whaever height

Knock yourself out, anon: https://3dplatform.com/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SKj3wlpYx8E

But seriously, you won't find anything like that in the DIY side of things other than those giant novelty delta printers they build for giggles to show off at maker conventions. And even those aren't cheap.
>>
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Hi guys,
I just switched to cura from simplify after my settings got corrupted for some God forsaken reason.
Unfortunately some artifacts started to appear that I don't really know where to put.
Do you know how to fix this?

It was printed on a prusa i3 mk3 out of abs
>>
>>1662693
Can't help here, but I'm curious why you're using Cura over Slic3r on a Prusa in the first place
>>
>>1662693
Looks like either temperature settings or jerk/acceleration.
>>
>>1662690
cool. i mean if i break my model onto 30cm pieces id need to do 7 prints
>>
>>1662698
Buy three Chirons, have them knock it out in a week, be happy you didn't spend a month and way more then 1K building a huge printer that kinda works but often doesn't. Remember kids, 3D-printing problems scale in all three dimensions.
>>
>>1662698

That's how it's normally done. If you watched the video you'd've heard the guy say that a print took "only 3 days". Large parts take a really long time and you have to be damn sure your machine is very reliable, otherwise just one issue on day 2 is going to mess up the entire thing. >>1662699 has the right idea, though a moving bed printer with a 400x400mm bed is probably going to have ringing problems.
>>
>>1662701
yeah i heard. they got pretty nice prints honestly but the fact they didnt smooth out that mask was disgusting
>>
>>1662701
Having done several week long prints on a big delta (1000*1500mm), the worst thing isn't a failure on day 2. The worst thing is a failure on day 7, three hours before it finishes because FUCK YOU YOU STUPID PIECE OF GARBAGE I'M EITHER SENDING YOU BACK TO WHOEVER BUILT YOU FOR A REFUND OR FUCK YOU I'M GETTING THE FORKLIFT AND YOU'RE GOING IN THE POND OUT FRONT.

I'm still in therapy over that one.

Anyways, I wouldn't recommend the Chiron or big CR-10s if I didn't know they work well, you just need to slow down a bit on your acceleration/jerk settings and they'll print without ringing. Yes, that means even the CR-10S5, I've worked with a guy who has ten of them to knock out big stuff and he's really happy with them. Sure, a bit lower acceleration/jerk is going to make for slower prints, but you try keeping up with ten S5s running a 0.8mm nozzle and 0.3 layer heights at a dainty 50mm/s. That's 120mm^3/s worth of volume you're pushing, a regular Prusa/Ender 3 with a 0.4mm nozzle, 0.2mm layer height needs to be running 1500mm/s to keep up (not gonna happen).
>>
>>1662695
I don't really like the Slic3r's UI
>>1662697
It's probably going to be the jerk. I used the same temperatures that I used in simplify
>>
>>1662690
Imagine printing with that for a year straight and after 2000 spools and a year of print time your print fails at 99%
>>
>>1662350
Right but i want to know if they have comparable quality to normal ones, something being less bad is enough.
>>
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>>1661750
Test #2
This time i tried printing a raster (so instead of drawing full lines, like in the pic from last post, it prints only dots) which allows you to print any image at all and not just outlines, but is much slower than path engraving.
I am pretty pleased with the resolution, it did a great job with the small image. I also tried to change the speed several times during the print which changed the black intensity a lot
And the mod was so easy and cheap to do that i am surprised it isn't more popular in the 3d printing community
>>
>>1662722

This is the first time i read about harmless plant-based resin, if such a thing actually exists i'm getting an SLA printer... Have you ordered any?
>>
>>1662732
pretty good, I can even make you y = true; in there.
>>
>>1662778
If i played with the feed rate, and adjusted the focus of the beam some more i am pretty sure i could make it easily readable, but i don't need that much detail to put that extra effort in.
But in theory my steppers can do 81 steps per mm (and they are just shitty chink steppers) and the focused beam of the laser is about 0.05mm, which means you can do 20 dots per mm resolution which is almost regular paper printer tier, or if you get a laser with really thin focused beam, then you could utilize the full stepper range and have say 81 dots per mm
>>
>>1662704
disable jerk and acceleration control
>>
>>1662469
Thanks for the tip, i was able to get it back to perfect printing condition one of the eccentric nuts was too low for the bed so i leveled it with the other.
>>
using 1 wall or shell with clear glow in the dark filament makes it shine brighter and you can literally see the infill use. gyroid looks nice when you can see inside the part.
>>
I have a 3D-printd item which I bought (I do not own a 3D printer), the piece is a low-weight mounting bracket which has a plastic-molded camera tripod screw hole in it (1/4" x 20 UNC, maybe 8mm deep). Being that it is plastic interacting with metal, the thing has stripped and it doesn't grip well at all anymore.

I am aware of a product called JB-Weld SteelStik, which appears to be a putty substance which can be kneaded and hardened into a solid shape. I've read another tip for plastic repair in which the person fixed the shape of a damaged plastic object by putting this putty inside and using another object to smooth out the putty, in that case essentially filling the worn-away plastic spaces with this putty and then restoring the original surface.

What I was thinking of doing was:

1. take this plastic piece
2. insert putty into the stripped screw hole
3. twist a screw into the hole, allowing the screw to penetrate and restore screw grooves to the putty
4. once satisfied with the work (screw is aligned straight), remove excess putty and let putty harden
5. after putty hardened, demonstrate that I can remove the screw, and now have a restored (and probably sturdier) screw hold on my mount

Can anyone tell me if they see reason that this shouldn't work? I'm trying to avoid designing a new part and getting it fabricated, as my next step would likely be to design my own part using an embedded metal fastener, and I don't want to go to the extra effort if I can improvise. I also haven't purchased the steelstik yet, but the product description makes it sound like I want to own it for other stuff anyway, so it's an enticing pickup if I can fix this as well.
>>
>>1662970
not sure how well the putty would hold up, would probably be easier adn longer lasting to buy a metal threaded insert of the size/thread you require, drill out the old hole and epoxy the insert in
>>
>>1662970
might work, but heating up a threaded insert and forcing it into the existing screw hole would probably work better. when i design 3d printed parts i usually design in holes for captive nuts.
>>
Is 3d Solutech PLA supposed to smell like strawberry candy while it prints?
>>
what are the differences between the ender 3/3x/pro/5/10 and why do they matter?
>>
>>1663064
ender 3 is normal
ender 3 pro has a y-axis rail double the normal one's width, which does nothing, and a magnetic buildplate, which is shit
ender 5 is cuboid which makes it easier to enclose, but it's still a bitch because the rollers run on the outside of the frame.
cr-10 is like the ender 3 but bigger with more build volume
>>
>>1663068
thanks
>>
>>1662979
PLA used to all/mostly smell when it printed due to the sugars it's made from, supposedly, but I haven't had PLA that smells like anything in quite a while.
>>
Trying out Octoprint.
>>
>>1662734
Anycubic has some releasing later this month but i dont have nearly the stuff id need to test if it holds up to all their claims. seems to be onions based and is roughly the same cost as their normal resin so i might be worth a try anyway.
>>
>>1663211

How much work was it, and what are the advantages?
>>
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>>1663242

Not bad, the biggest pain was trying to boot the Pi with an inadequate power supply initially. Otherwise it's all plug & play. Someone modeled a webcam mount for the x-axis motor on the Prusa, so easy kill for that too.

I mainly just wanted to be able to check on prints remotely, but there's a lot of open source plugins too.
>>
>>1663232

I looked a btit more into it, it appears to be a lot better but not completely harmless. From what i can tell Anycubic is reselling this "Suen Ching SOYC" brand that can be found here:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33021584804.html

It still mentions you need to wear a mask and gloves, they call it "low irritant" and "low odor" instead of completely non-irritant and no-odor. Here is a more lengthy article on basedbean-based resins i found:

https://3dprint.com/233882/plant-derived-resins-as-alternatives-to-petroleum-based-materials/

According to that paper it's possible to make photoinitiator-free resin but it's still cutting-edge stuff. It feels like it may have been a bit rushed to market, you know how the chinese are... I'd personally wait until reviewers start getting their hands on the stuff, but as far as printability is concerned i don't think it's going to be any different from regular resin.
>>
>>1663262
Thanks, im not a complete hippy but if it ends up printing near the same id rather use the less harmful stuff to everything around me. ill wait and see what people say when its been looked over.
>>
>>1662975
>epoxy the insert in
your should much rather melt it in with a soldering iron
>>
>>1662975
>>1662976
I've been reading about that process and did consider it as I mentioned, what kind of tools (and protective gear) would I want if I was going to go around melting plastic? I imagine some kind of breathing protection is desired at the very least.
>>
>>1663296

I've welded plenty of printed pieces with a temperature-controlled soldering station, you just have to set the temperature low enough to where it will melt easily, but not release any odor stronger than what you normally get during printing. For protection you can get a respirator or a fume extractor. It's also best to dedicate a tip specifically for plastic work as cleaning it to make it usable for soldering again can be tedious.
>>
>>1663296
it's a miniscule amount of plastic you're melting, don't worry about it. just heat the shit up and press it in.
>>
Bought creality ender 3 pro last month and haven’t printed but like 4-5 things. Calibrating it is a pain but otherwise it has been solid. How do I learn how to make my own prints though? Do most normies just print DnD stuff from thingiverse or is there more to this world?
>>
>>1663442
Depends on what you bought the printer for really, depending if its its wargame / rpg terrain or more practical stuff will narrow down where you get your shit from.
>>
>>1663444
I’m interested in printing things for my guns, bicycle, pots for plants, statues, and maybe dnd figures and set pieces. I’m really interested in anything. I was also thinking of printing some key chain type objects, and a phone case.
>>
>>1663442
why did you bought the printer?
>>
>>1663447
I thought it would make me lots of money
>>
>>1663446
Best thing i can suggest is pick one of those as a project and learn everything you need to complete it and once thats done move on to the next.
>>
>>1663451
not me but someone answer this dude because I'm thinking about getting a printer and sell services but I'm thinking that the market is really over-saturated
>>
>>1663454
>not me but someone answer this dude because I'm thinking about getting a printer and sell services but I'm thinking that the market is really over-saturated
It's saturated for just printing stuff. But if you've got decent modeling skills, you can still sell that.
>>
>>1663454
Im the dude that posted this... It really isn’t, there are people on eBay selling a lot of items and there are always local people looking for things like that. I’ve run my own in house business before for an extra side hustle (not trying to make this a full-time job), and figured 3D printing would be like “afkable” while im at work to make me some side cash on ebay and craigslist. It is all about that side hustle senpai. If it is profitable ill buy 4 more creality ender 3 pro’s and get them all running. Literally only cost me like $220 + 0 tax and free shipping from amazon.
>>
>>1663454
>>1663455
The problem with just selling prints is in the space of a week, you'll have spent more on the filament than the printer. Anyone who wants to print stuff can just buy a printer now. They're almost disposable cheap.
But like
>>1663446
it turns out designing stuff to print is actual work. How many people do you know who've mastered any form of 3D modeling? How many would be smart enough even given a year?
>>
>>1663456
I don’t remember typing “senpai” what the heck?
>>
>>1663459
f a m gets wordfiltered to senpai
>>
>>1663456
>there are people on eBay selling a lot of items
Yeah, and there are always Harleys for sale over $20,000 around here. Doesn't mean they actually sell.
>>1663459
yay word filters are back
>>
>>1663455
That's what I figured, I would assume it's faggots stealing models and selling them to clients and the such.

>>1663456
yea bro but are you using your own models? I've already googled tons of court cases involving this same topic.

>>1663458
Thanks for the input anon and everyone else, It seems like my hunch for 3D modelling was right.
>>
>>1663462
That is why I asked how do I learn to model my stuff? Im not going to steal someones property and get sued lol.
>>
>>1663467
Start with something simple and free and try to make a few neat things. I'm a big believer in learning by doing. Grab you some TinkerCAD or OpenSCAD and start making simple stuff. Yeah, they're limited, but the basic thinking doesn't change in the high-end tools, and the additional features the Big Boys offer are not stuff 99% of modelers need.
>>
>>1663454
>>1663451
>>1663442

The only way to make money is to print high quality things that you designed yourself. Good luck with that.

As for designing, I don't know if you know any 3D modeling software, but Fusion360, Autodesk Inventor, and many other such programs are free for "students" or non-business users. There are lots of youtube tutorials and such. I mean I learned Inventor and AutoCAD in high school. You could always take a class at a local community college or something. Maybe wouldn't make your money back, but it'd be fun.

Treat this as a hobby, making it into a business ain't easy.
>>
>>1663467
>how do I learn
By doing. Download Blender and/or Fusion 360, and go nuts on Youtube. BlenderGuru is okay for general modeling introduction as well as a bit of rendering, and you'll know what you want to branch out into after a while. With CAD programs, just dick around until you know what you're doing. Dimension all your sketches or Danny DeVito will shank you in your sleep.
>>
why not rhino for modeling?
>>
>>1663516
because it's not 1997 anymore.
>>
>>1663518
im getting into rhino right now, can you go into detail? what about using grasshopper?
>>
>>1663527
rhino is shit because it's stuck in the past
>grasshopper
why would you use visual scripting in cad? if you want to do script-based parametric modelling just use openSCAD, otherwise just use a normal, modern cad software. fusion 360 or onshape.
>>
>>1662144
Cool. Where can I find the design?
>>
>>1663536
Nevermind, I found it.
>>
>>1663518
What a useless meme answer

>>1663527
It's a NURBS modeling program, which is fine.
I'm greatly oversimplifying here but:
In the broad sense of CGI, NURBS has fallen out of favor but not with respect to CAD.
"Is it better to model with NURBS or with a mesh?" is sort of an academic question; ultimately you'll convert your model to STL which means a triangulated mesh will be generated.
The upside to a NURBS model is that if you need to convert it to a mesh, you're essentially working with an infinitely high resolution model and can then set the resolution you want your mesh to be.
The downside is you have an extra step, you (theoretically) have more control over your mesh if you're starting out as a mesh rather than converting to a mesh later, but you can also can (and will) tweak your mesh generated from your NURBS model.
I believe, broadly speaking, NURBS is more extensible with respect to CAD n general but if you're not working in some commercial setting (where you might need to collaborate or share a file with a client or firm or adhere to a particular standard) it doesn't really matter.
Blender is fine too, it gets the job done, Maya and Max are "more powerful" at the top end of usage but regardless of what program you use 80% of your work is going to be done with 20% of the features.
Blender has a lot of problems, in part because it tries to do so many things, but one thing it does really well is very speedy hotkey driven "box modeling" (i.e. pushing verts around, cutting and extruding shapes, sort of a bottom up approach instead of the top down approach of sculpting).

If you're super focused on CAD software specifically, there's a lot of options out there and making the general CGI softwares (Maya / Max / C4D / Blender) work like CAD is a chore and I would recommend looking into a CAD specific software (which I'm out of the loop on; used to be AutoCAD was the top dog, dunno who is now).
>>
>>1663545
>what a useless meme answer
>proceeds to list off a bunch of inane bullshit
no one uses NURBS for solid body modelling anymore you fucking dinosaur, it's all BRep now, except for pseudo-organic shapes, which nobody here uses.
>>
>>1663545
thanks for the reply, im an architecture student and am looking into digital fabrication in general, and that isnt really talked about that much here, so im a complete noob
>>
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What kind of raspberry Pi should I be getting to run octoprint on my wanhao i3 clone?
>>
>>1663607
pi zero W.
>>
>>1663608
pi zero W is easy and more than enough for Octoprint *unless* you want a high res webcam streaming over WiFi too. It has a weird WiFi setup that's very CPU heavy.
>>
>>1663618
>you want a high res webcam streaming over WiFi too
I do want this, but it doesnt need to be a super high res webcam. I just need to monitor the status of my prints when I am not home. Was looking at the cost of a "pi" camera and the cable but thats almost the cost of something like a logitech C270.
>>
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Any suggestions on how to get flexible filament to print with the MMU2S? Due to the low idler pressure, it's difficult to feed and I haven't been able to actually extrude it yet, just get it to the nozzle and then it does pic related.
>>
>>1663637
If it actually gets to the bondtech gears in the nozzle and then the MMU just keeps feeding, your problem is that the IR sensor in the extruder is miscalibrated. Ninjaflex is squishy. The sensor is tripped by the bondtech gears moving apart. They don't move apart quite as much for squishy filament.
>>
>>1663646
[all sorts of crazy, pull-your-hair-out bullshit will go wrong with the MMU2S if the extruder filament sensor is even a little bit off]
>>
>>1663631
Lots of people say Pi Zero W with a webcam doesn't work well, lots of other people say it works fine. I have one that works fine (with a PI camera) but I'm going to guess it can be hit-or-miss.
>>
>>1663478
>>1663469
>>1663481
Just got back to checking this post, thanks for tips
>>
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>>1663646
>>1663648
>sensor is miscalibrated
Don't I fucking know it. It's been the source of most of my issues so far because I had to actually scrape some of the bolt hole away so it would seat properly, otherwise the readings would change every 3-5cm or so. I'm honestly a little surprised I have to dig so far in the menu to even see the sensor readings, and apparently they're not even reliable. I've been having an issue where the tension gate (or, whatever the part with the idler is called) wobbles, but I haven't found anything like it online, so I've been planning to bring it up with support if I print pic related and that doesn't fix my issues.

The MMU is a nice idea, but the execution is somewhat flawed.
>>
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>>1663661
>I'm honestly a little surprised I have to dig so far in the menu to even see the sensor readings, and apparently they're not even reliable.
They're reliable, but the menu is only showing the instantaneous reading at LCD refresh time.
> I've been having an issue where the tension gate (or, whatever the part with the idler is called) wobbles, but I haven't found anything like it online, so I've been planning to bring it up with support if I print pic related and that doesn't fix my issues.
Anon, I have good news for you...
[happen to be working on this specific fix right fucking now, seemed like something I really needed to issue along with my MMU2S+6 upgrade kits]
>>
>>1663669
[that pic is very much an unfinished work in progress, proto number 3...]
>>
>>1663661
that picture is.... wow. Talk about the duct-tape approach.

FTR, I'm just using a compound lever folded into existing extruder body. That plus sleeves on the shafts and a single 673ZZ roller bearing should fix things right up. No damned chimney (jeez), no calibration, no need to disassemble the extruder to install, and you can open the idler door again.
>>
>>1663672
Oh, *AND* an actual sensor indication LED on the extruder body. Because why isn't there one.
>>
>>1663661
>>1663669
>>1663671
>>1663674
Aaaanyway, the endless march to shipping continues, I should have this specific bit banged out next week. Lots of testing to do. If you wanna be q beta tester, let me know, I'll ship you one straight up.
>>
ender 3 printable upgrades i should do first

and shit to buy as well
>>
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>>1663671
>>1663669
Radical, looking forward to it. To clarify, I'm not sure what exactly the problem is; it's not that it's loose, but more that something seems to be off-center, because I can thread any stiff piece of filament through and watch the door slightly shift in and out. My video isn't uploading, but there's enough slop (or, I guess, camming, unsure what to call it) to dis/engage the filament sensor enough that "aligning" it as per the Prusa instructions doesn't work.

>>1663672
>duct tape approach
I don't get it, looks somewhat reasonable to me - he's extending the lever to make it less sensitive, anything particularly bad about it?

>compound lever
>sleeves on the shafts
>roller bearing
Share a picture of your setup?

>>1663679
Beta tester, you say? I might be interested depending on what's involved.
>>
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>>1663703
Oops, that's not the MMU version of that part.
>>
Anyone got a link or is selling a half-cat 3D print

I need it
>>
>>1663703
>I don't get it, looks somewhat reasonable to me
In the sense that the reasoning is sound, sure...
> - he's extending the lever to make it less sensitive, anything particularly bad about it?
It's tall and prone to accidents.and only slightly increases travel of the IR bean interruptor blade.
Also, I am a vain man and it looks silly.
> Share a picture of your setup?
The setup was in the FreeCAD screenshot. I'll probably print this version tomorrow. I'm waiting on the stainless sleeving from McMaster before I put it together though.
>>
>>1663710
>it looks silly.
That, I'll agree with wholeheartedly
>>
>>1663711
Better pic of just the actuated IR sensor mechanism with the extruder bits removed. The roller on the idler door actuates the folded lever, which amplifies apparent travel. Model is obviously incomplete as yet.
>>
>>1663718
Obviously could be simplified and wouldn't be as squiggly if I could build a new extruder body too, but that's a lot to ask. Just unbolting things to lengthen the IR cable was far more trouble than it was actually worth (not needed here, IR sensor doesn't move).
>>
Will a Crealty Ender 3 be able to print something with 2mm walls, or should I go a bit more high end?
>>
>>1663767

I mean the default nozzle is .4 mm, so it should really be fine.
>>
>>1663792
cheers
>>
For someone with experience with flexible filaments: How much resilience can you get out of it? I'm thinking about printing a dice tray, and while I could just throw some foam padding under it for cooler bounce, I like the idea of having it fully 3D printed.
>>
>>1663804
>how much resilience
I'm not sure what you're asking here. A dice tray is definitely do-able, though, and it'll last a while if you don't straight-up abuse it, particularly at higher infills. Do lots of top layers, though, those are particularly hard to do well.
>>
>>1663808

I'm trying to basically make a dice tray modeled on a casino-style craps table. Including a floor that is layered for added bounce for the dice. Casinos evidently used either rubber or a specific type of foam under the felt to increase the bounce. I'm wondering whether I can replace that layer with some flexible filament and have a decent effect.
>>
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How fucked is this shelf? Can I expect this to give over time? Printed with eSun PLA+
>>
>>1663882
It depends on how heavy the shelf is and how much weight you put on it, but yeah, I wouldn't expect that to last. If you doubled its size it might.
>>
Painters tape is literally the shit. Printing PETG ezpz and it pops off super easy too. So happy I started lurking here a couple of months ago.
>>
>>1663882
PLA is UV sensitive, your bracket looks to have contact with the sun.
>>
>>1663804
>>1663810
Flexible filaments such as TPU are extremely resilient. We're talking 800% elestical deformation in some cases, meaning you can bend it. Just make sure you have the right shor hardness before you start. If it really is a solid surface you're printing you won't have a lot of retractions, meaning you can do it on a bowden setup without any tuning except temperature.
>>
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printing small things is a bit complicated
0.3mm nozzle, 0.2mm nozzle is next
>>
>>1663956
Trying to make a fleshlight?
>>
>>1663963
for (You) ;^)
>>
>>1663882
if you place any weight on the front of the shelf that thing will tip over forwards
>>
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>>1663956
>>
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>>1664005
>>
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>>1664010
>>
>>1663956

Just scanning through nice models people have printed on Thingiverse, I noticed that very few people said they went below a .3mm nozzle. Is there a good reason for that?
>>
>>1664057

Takes longer and is easier to mess up
>>
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> Grey Prusament PETG
> Ender 3
> Glass bed with painters tape
> 250° for hot end and 90° for bed.
So printing PETG seems to get my nozzle covered in it. I cleaned it off but more got in. It kind of creates little strands. Does not really affect the print too much but I was wondering if there is anything I am doing wrong.
>>
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>>1664057
small solenoid cores
(yes, I could make the core solid, but:)
and/or small electromagnets
(yes, I could wind the wire directly around the ferromagnetic core/wire, but this way I can also move the core around)
but after all, this is a proof of concept and mainly my curiosity as I have some 0.2 nozzles laying around.
well, it kinda works. but the repeatability is shit, so the process is kinda tedious. would work better with better... everything (in general tolerances, steppers, axles, stepper drivers, ball spindles, enclosure, etc...)
>>
>>1664089
take another shot, I can't see shit
>>
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>>1664122
Any specific angle you would prefer? Though it seems the issue is not apparent anymore.
>>
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>>1664089
>It kind of creates little strands
>>1664130
>it seems the issue is not apparent anymore.
I have this problem with PETG too, it is quite sensible to the temperature window you are working in (= it does not like big temp differences).
And humidity. Printing worked a lot better right after oven drying.
>>
>>1664136
I will look into that. The conditions are not ideal in my room presently honestly.
>>
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Mini Pew Pew
>>
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Alright so this happened. That little glob was hanging from nozzle of the parts. Like 5 mm over the actual print. Was at 89%.
>>
>>1664167
Wait, are you reorienting the air stream? That's... interesting, don't think I'v seen that done much before.
>>
I have a large glass table top, scratches on the surface but the underside is untouched. Could I use it as the base of a large 3D printer?
>>
>>1664235
as the buildplate? it might be a little thick, you generally only want it to be 5-6mm thick at most, but if you stuck the heater directly to it instead of to aluminum and laying the plate on top, it might work.
>>
>>1664242
I was thinking as the buildplate for a large delta printer. It's probably a dumb idea though.
>>
>>1664245
it would probably work perfectly fine
from what i've heard pretty much all modern glass is kinda hella flat or something and that's really all that could go wrong
>>
>>1664203
this is what you get for listening to chink shills and buying an Ender 3
>>
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>>1664211
The novelty is in the catch, which is inside the plunger tube, but is interacted with through a toggle switch boot (which also seals around it).
Air redirects aren't terribly novel, but have usually been done with pipe fittings. Older designs like the Xellah Bullpups, ESLTs, and PCSRs use pipe elbows, rod seals, bushings, or o-rings to cap off things that leave the end of the plunger tube.
>>
>>1664261
calm down Josef, your shit is expensive and contributes nothing
>>
>>1664167
We use the same deodorant
>>
>>1664266
>implying i use deodorant
>>
>>1664261
Whatever faggot. Anyone have real ideas?
>>
>>1664316
I don’t even know what your problem is because your original post isn’t even proper English.
>>
>>1663882
Looks retarded but depending on what orientation you printed it, wall thickness, infill type/%, and weight you expect on the shelf... Yeah, it could last a little while.

If you didn't at least consider 3/4 of those then I wouldn't trust it
>>
>>1664316
yeah, just go through the hundreds known and well documented problems of the Ender 3
one
by
one
hope your time isn't worth anything
>>
>>1664325
Yeah you are right. Sorry. Working and posting at the same time was a bad idea.
> Prusament PETG
> hot end 240° and plate 90°
> print going perfect for a few hours
> after 60% completion I stop checking it every 5 minutes
> come back around 90% to see how it is doing and the hot end is printing in thin air about 5mm above my part
> little glob you see in my pic was hanging off my hot end
>>
>>1664316

Heat nozzle and feed more filament to make sure it's not clogged.

Also possible your filament is wet. Look at the videos for signs of that.
>>
>>1664371
Yeah I figured it was the fillament but honestly it seems fine. Not clogged either. I ran a part last night and it did the same thing. Prusament has a weird setup for their spooling but it is not getting stuck.
>>
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I'm not sure what happened but it seems to have sorted itself out
>>
>>1664633
Bed's warped
>>
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>>1664647
What makes you say that?
this one came out perfectly fine, and theres no obvious bowing or ridges anywhere
>>
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Picked up a mini 2 recently. I personally wouldn't actually go out and buy one, but the easy and relatively high print quality is p impressive.
>>
>>1664566
Check to see if your cold end gearing is clean, your filament spins freely, and is clean. From there, try adding a few drops of oil to the filament and raising the temperature of the hot end buy 2 or 3 degrees to see if you get better results. PETG has recommended temps as high at 265, so 240 isn't out of line, but it could be hardening in the tube, so you might also want to dial down on your nozzle cooling by 5%. If you have the time, it is also going to be beneficial to you to do an atomic pull to clean the nozzle of any potential crud/carbonized filament. Ultimately, your goal is to ensure the the filament flows as freely as possible, so that is the objective of all these steps.

During this testing phase, I reccomend you only print one item at a time. Let us know how you make out.
>>
>>1664669
>Picked up a mini 2
>mini 2
UP mini 2? Lulzbot mini 2? something else?
>>
>>1664676
That's a lulzbot mini 2. The bed plate securing clamps give it away.
>>
>>1663882
You need a screw in the top and back too just to provide proper support also dont put anything on the front
>>
>>1664673
Thank you. I think an atomic pull was what was needed. Printing perfect now but I probably jinxed it just now.
>>
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Don't quite know why I printed this. Came out great though.
>>
>>1664753
>Don't quite know why I printed this
It's because you're a dirty pervert, anon.
>>
>>1664775
Granted. Even so I have no purpose for it and nowhere to put it. It’s a real nice model that prints without support though.
>>
>>1664782
3D printing broadens the scope of bad decisions you can make while horny
>>
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i know nothing, and just got this. what do. its an ender 3 pro, with hatchbox filament. nothing else has been done. i guess im using cura but changed zero settings. it lifted in one of the corners as well
>>
>>1664900
I recommend a glass bed pretty much regardless of printer, but my Ender 3 pro came with a kinda warped bed, so that was almost necessary. First thing to do is wash your bed with soap and water and dry it being careful not to get any oil or fabric on it. Second carefully level it. Plenty of videos for that, but make sure you level it while heated to whatever heat you print at so warping isn’t fucking with you. If those don’t fix, printing with a brim will almost always keep it on there, although it’s a mild annoyance to remove sometime.

If you STILL can’t get it right, look into glue.
>>
>>1664906
glass shows up soon, and i damaged the bed after replacing the springs, so i imagine some of it will be fixed with the glass. but theres what appears to be over-extrusion and some stringing? i did the measuring and it came to 98.5 mm extruded when 100mm is sent, which didnt seem like THAT large of a difference.

the box test came out really nice, with just one side ?over extruding?. but the whole point of the test was to see if it was printing the walls to .4 mm, and the walls were .86 thick. setting wall thickness didnt seem to be correct and its hard to find information on what setting to change. the documentation on some of this stuff is really, really sparse?
>>
>>1664900
>i know nothing
>printing the walls to .4 mm, and the walls were .86 thick. setting wall thickness didnt seem to be correct and its hard to find information on what setting to change
have you calibrated your extruder yet?
(= adjusted the extruder esteps based on the actually extruded length of your filament)
>>
>>1664944
>setting wall thickness
have you also checked your extruder nozzle diameter settings? everywhere? (= printer and slicer)
>>
Is there a good crash course on Blender 2.8?
Yes I am a poor fag
>>
>>1664967
What do you need to know anon?
And no not really, go to /3/'s blender general and ask questions, watch a few tutorials to get your bearings.
>>
>>1664988
I just want to make a shape for 3d printing
I want to make a 2D polygon, then extrude it to a depth, then subtract a 2nd extruded 2D polygon from it
>>
>>1664991
Shift-A to create an object, you probably want a plane
g will grab vertexes and you can move them around, xyz will let you lock movement to that axis, e will let you extrude aka make a new vertex if your shape has more than 4 sides.
select everything then extrude with z lock to get your depth
Repeat that then your best bet for subtracting is probably a boolean modifier

Ask /3/ for more specifics and probably watch tutorials and follow them to pick up more shit to learn blender better
>>
>>1664992
you're a legend anon, thanks
>>
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I know there are individual minis on Thingiverse and the Mini Index, but has anyone made printable wargaming regiments? Actual ~28mm model, not just 3D tokens...
Sounds like a perfect untapped niche
>>
Just installed TMC2208 in my i3 Mega. Y/Z-Axis works perfectly fine, but the X-Axis...
https://a.uguu.se/Z2JtLRsLZn1I.webm

What is causing the "rattling" sound?
>>
>>1665147
Should note that slow or "small" X-Axis movement is near silent, but fast or "bigger" movement is causing the noise.
>>
>>1662292
Gel type super glue is really good for pla
>>
>>1662527
Z axis grinding on the anet is typically caused by your carriage not being level. Recalibrate your z and make sure to print out the z wobble mods. There are a ton of printable upgrades for the a8 on thingiverse. Also look up the heat bed rewire so you don't burn your house down
>>
I noticed that the default Cura settings for my Ender 3 are about 2 cm short of what my bed size actually is. Can I fuck with this, or will the stoppers fuck me on this and I DEFINITELY SHOULDN'T?
>>
>>1664967
Grant Abbitt on YouTube has some Blender 2.8 absolute beginner tutorials that I've found to be super super helpful
>>
Christ. I found out why the hell my prints were failing. It has this small tangle that I somehow did not catch. It would tangle to the point where fillament would not feed then somehow loosen up after a few layers. My PETG is printing perfect now.
>>
>>1665234
Been there. Really dumb problem to track down but if you know how it looks it’s easy to catch in the future, as long as you look in on your prints
>>
>>1664945
>>1664944
sorta. esteps, i got 98.5 instead of 100 and left it because it seemed close. nozzle diameter settings i didnt seem to find in cura, finding what name matched what seemed hard, but ill look again.

glass bed arrived, and theres a gap on a corner from the warp. i know you clip it down, but wouldnt there still be a gap somewhere under there? i saw using foil shims mentioned, is that a good idea? seems imprecise
>>
>>1665176
im new to my own ender, but my guess here is you could measure the distance your actual axis move by manually moving them with the control panel
>>
>>1665272
>>1665271
final question for now: i actually have a pi 3 B+. as a complete newby to 3d printers, is it worth setting this up with octipi right away, or doing it much later down the road?
>>
Where do you fuckers get large quantities of silica for your dry storage? I don’t see anything quite right glancing around.
>>
>>1665280
amazon
>>
>>1665280
i have a client save their drug test silicone packets. each piss test has one inside and they piss test like 85 people a week or more.
>>
>>1665012
Shapeways is probably what you're looking for
>>
>>1665280
I just save every single silica bag that comes with the filament, after a while you have more than plenty.
>>
>>1665176
>>1665272

Turns out you can (and I did) print basically hanging off the bed. Probably not the removable bed that comes with it since it's a little bigger. But the glass bed that fits the base perfectly you totally can.
>>
Can I build a Prusa i3 for free?
>>
>>1664753
Beautiful quality
>>
>>1665434
Sure, if you happen to have all the parts.
>>
>>1663882
Redo it in Fusion360 and use the static load study + shape optimization. Your scenario is the basic intro level problem most people use to teach the above studies, so it's very easy.
>>
>>1664912
>but the whole point of the test was to see if it was printing the walls to .4 mm, and the walls were .86 thick

you used a wall count of 2
>>
>>16652752
With octoprint it will print a little bit slower because instead of reading directly from the sd card, it's communicating with the pi to receive the gcode. About a 10% difference. However, with the pi you can eventually change the printer's firmware to something like Klipper which will give you a 30-50% speed increase. So that slight speed reduction from only having octoprint isn't a big deal.

I think it's worth to set up. It's really easy if you're only setting up the local network first. If you have an old USB webcam or an android phone laying around, you can very easily set those up to monitor your prints on octoprint too. Most USB webcams are plug and play and it takes 5 minutes to setup an old android phone.

It's a lot comfier to send your files to your printer, start the print, and check in on the print from your laptop.
>>
>>1665434
https://pretendprusa.co.uk
>>
Does anyone here paint their 3d prints?
I gonna buy a ender 3 and want to paint some waifus (specially shallter bloodfallen), any tips?
>>
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made this really simple garden gate latch to keep our 40kg rottie in the yard
>>
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>>1665622
>>
>>1665622
cost/time to print?
>>
>>1665622
That's not going to last...
>>
>>1665622
>>1665623
UV will be raping your polymers fast
>>
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>>1665617
>>
>>1665630
we'll see
>>1665628
around 70g with around 5h with my settings
>>
>>1665640
how horrifying!
>>
>>1665622
Where do you live?
Just so i know if i need to up my insurance coverage
>>
>>1665640
Thank god I just leave mine unpainted. Would spray painting look nicer?
>>
>>1665639
Looks like he coated it. It’ll probably last quite a while.
>>
>>1665706
airbrushing gets good quality.
>>
>>1665617
I believe some polyeurethane spray and primer will get it smooth and ready to paint pretty well but I don’t know shit
>>
Is there a firmware package for the creality max to use an e3d hot end or do I need to stay with microswiss?
>>
New here and to printing in general, I've been having issues printing after a month or so of no issues. I use the printer mostly for printing props for games I play, like thorn and dark drinker from destiny for personal collection. Creality ender 3d pro is the printer I am using, and I'm printing with PLA at 220°f and the bed at 70°. Watching it print it seems like the material being pushed out is inconsistent, with some spots looking perfect and others being almost skipped. I have all stock parts on the printer as well. What are some troubleshooting tips that might help me improve the flow of the material? Also I'll listen to any tips for general maintenance as well
>>
>>1665724
First are you sure you need it that hot? 210/65 is already pretty high. Second make sure your filament isn't twisted. Feed your filament and look at it to make sure it's not a problem of wet filament (watch a video for what that looks like). After that, try this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=30qqKUwviww
>>
>>1665724
is it impacting print quality? if your prints look good, you're probably just seeing retraction happen. Otherwise, check the fittings at each end of your bowden tube, the stock ones are shit and have a tendency to let the tube move back a bit which fucks up retraction calculations - replace them and use the little clips that come with them to keep them locked in place.
>>
>>166570
>>1665639
nah it's not coated
just plain old pla
will UV really fuck it up that fast?
>>
>>1665732
dude 220 is fine
in fact, 230-240 is where you get the most strength out of PLA though looks start to suffer around there
>>
>>1665751
All my spools have recommended tempts of 210 max.
>>
>>1665640
>what is paint thinner?
>>
>>1665749
I've never made a functional part out of PLA and not been dissapointed.
>>
>>1665749
>>1665639

I tend to use plasti-dip spray on a lot of my prints. Will that block UV?
>>
>>1665622
why would you print something like that?
>>
>>1665770
needed a latch and am too lazy to make it out of a couple of blocks of wood or something
>>
>>1665755
yeah
you can print pla from 190 to 240
>>
traded a spud gun-style pneumatic spigot mortar to a college kid for a lightly used, allegedly working ender 3. What am I in for?

I have a self-built aluminum extrusion ultimaker clone which has been great, but I want more throughput
>>
>>1665905
>I have a self-built aluminum extrusion ultimaker clone which has been great, but I want more throughput
Well, the ender 3 is no ultimaker. But I don't know how faithful a clone you mean.
You've adopted something of a tinkering project.
>>
>>1665910
>But I don't know how faithful a clone you mean.

mechanically, decently faithful. .9deg/step motors. ballscrew z instead of whatever screw the real ultimaker uses.

Electronics are just lightly kludged RAMPS, though, because poverty, which is probably the limiting factor on it not being a piece of shit.
>>
>>1665913
Ways? Extruder?
RAMPS board alone isn't going to hurt anything really.
>>
The ways are hard chrome 8mm rod from misumi, trying out drylin bearings instead of the original sintered bronze bushings.

The extruder is a kitbash of a shit chinese e3dv6 heat sink with a genuine e3dv6 heatbreak, block, heating element, nozzle, thermistor, etc. works great, cost about $30.
>>
>>1665929
So a pretty decent build, depending on how well you got it together. I'm kinda surprised you need to ask about an Ender 3.
In any case... everything is probably going to be somewhat more shite than you're used to. Not useless or awful, but until you get the bowden extruder dialed in (and even if you do) it's probably going to be at best a step down. A usable step down, but a step down.
Also.... why does this feel like some kind of drug deal?
>>
>>1665706
>>1665653
That guy ignored pretty much all the guidelines on painting printed parts (and painting in general) so his result is definitely not representative of what you can get with painted prints
>>
>>1665734
Yeah I was looking at replacing the extruder with an aluminum one and getting one of those capricorn tubes. I wasn't using the clips on the heating end of the tube so that definitely might have been a problem. I'll tinker with it after I'm out of work thank you. And yeah it is affecting the quality pretty bad. It leaves gaps between the layers in random spots and it isn't consistent in where it does it, and I know the bed is correct because I spent an hour messing with it trying to see if I could fix the problem with just adjusting the bed. I also applied some lubricant on the z axis threaded rod and that helped a little.
>>
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>>1665732

220 is where I got the prints to stick to the bed properly. I've printed a lot of stuff on that temp and they have turned out pretty good though in my opinion
>>
Do you guys have an easy way to grind up your filament? I figure I want to save it till it gets a bit cheaper and easier to reform it, but it takes up a lot of space.
>>
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>>1664753

.......
>>
>>1666023
you could do that polishing thing with acetone, if it wouldnt destroy details it would probably look neat.
afterwards you could also put some matte lacquer on it
>>
>>1665975
sthat thing functional?
>>
>>1666029
Did a little sanding on the underside of the arm, otherwise it’s not bad. Not as good as the first one though. Also they’re PLA so no acetone.
>>
>>1665749
>will UV really fuck it up that fast?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qqNfa_zExRU
>>
>>1665749
Who cares it's a latch
Anyway I printed some black PLA caps for screwholes for my car (lost the original ones) one year ago, they're basically purple now
>>
>>1666031
No the cylinder moves out and the trigger has some half assed mechanism. I want to learn how to make better mounts for cylinders and have a trigger with actual weight to it like those dollar store cowboy guns lol. So far I've made the thorn, the last word, printed out all the part for dark drinker, made the wingman from Apex for a friend and was going to make a friend the unkempt Harold from bl2 but then my issues started lol
>>
Can somebody explain to me why using stepper motor drivers which make the steppers silent also make them super hot?
>>
>>1666047
you should do vashs revolver!
also, maybe you can just take the parts from a toy gun and put them in there?
>>
>>1666054
It doesn't.
However, the drivers that do silent operation can either do silent operation *or* do current reduction (power saving) based on measured motor load. They can't do both at the same time (right now).
>>
how much heat does 3d printing make?
I have a relative small room with no AC, will I make it?
>>
>>1666116
depends on what material you are printing and how large the printbed is.
you will basically have a small heater next to you running at 60 to 110°C. if you are going to run it over night, the temperature isnt the problem but the sound of it and possibly even the vibration.
t. has 2 printers right next to the bed
>>
>>1666118
Same here. My ender 3 is kind of soothing though. I printed a cover for the LCD. I just lay in bed over the covers naked while it is so hot.
>>
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Look at all the sciency filament ill have to print.
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>>1666116

Same. If you print without a heated bed it’s really not that bad. If you do, plan around it.
>>
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does anyone have some solid techniques for printing ~without~ squish?

I'm printing with some silk filament that looks vastly nicer the less squish there is, but less squish means less plate adhesion and I tend to end up getting warping.

I print on a PEI surface using a MK3 with a layer of thinned school glue baked onto the surface to provide adhesion. Glue sticks don't work because they mess with the surface finish.
>>
>>1666147
add a raft
>>
So when i do mesh leveling, does marlin fit a plane and tilts the print to match the plane of the bed? Or does it print perpendicular to the bed but adjusts the z height according to the closest(or interpolated) bed height?
>>
>>1666160
Depends on the implementation of Marlin. I believe the 'true' Marlin does something like that, yes.
>>
>>1666147
>does anyone have some solid techniques for printing ~without~ squish?
Do you mean first layer elephant foot, or the amount of spread of every layer?
>>
>>1666164
>does something like that
Oookay Which one?
>>
>>1666166
>Oookay Which one?
What are you actually running? Marlin downloaded from marlinfw.org? If so, yes, it does bed leveling like you described, but has some.... interesting bugs.
>>
>>1666174
>What are you actually running?
Lets say marlin2 bugfix from github

>it does bed leveling like you described
I described 2 different methods. Which one?
>>
>>1666151
shit that is actually brilliant

thanks anon
>>
>>1666077
Wanna do something a little stronger like going to Sears or Menards and getting metal components. And for Revolvers I made the blue Rose from devil may cry and it came out pretty nice. I also want the moving parts to have a fluid and metallic sound to them
>>
What slicers support the Creality Max?
Cura doesnt have its profile
>>
>>1666177
>I described 2 different methods. Which one?
Oh, sorry. Bilinear interpolated Z-height correction between measurement points.
>>
>>1666197
I imagine you can just take a cr10 profile and tweak the bed size
>>
>>1666147

Try playing with the First Layer Extrusion Width in your advanced print settings.

For a .4mm tip, most things extrude at .45, but the first layer is set for .42 by default to compensate for squish.
>>
>>1666226
>For a .4mm tip, most things extrude at .45, but the first layer is set for .42 by default to compensate for squish.
Depending on surface.... it doesn't really.
Most slicers have an 'elephant foot compensation' setting, .1mm is about right.
>>
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>>1662732
>And the mod was so easy and cheap to do that i am surprised it isn't more popular in the 3d printing community
If I could engrave glass I'd be tempted. I bought some Holo mugs on /k/ years ago and they are the neatest bootleg shit ever. But printing on a curved transparent surface must come with a huge set of problems.
>>
How do you guys deal with translating a 3D model into an actual functional piece of a larger assembly. Eg making screw holes to connect prints to other things, or designing sturdy interconnects for multiple printed parts to fit together securely. Or printing an item that must slot onto something in the real world. I often struggle with poor tolerances and mis-matched sizes even though I'm very careful to take great measurements.

I'm considering using strong magnets embedded in my prints as a stepping stone to something less expensive, but joints and sockets etc are the sort of things I want to develop as none of my prints are single pieces.
>>
>>1666299
sometimes i model the real-world parts that the printed parts have to fit first, then design the printed parts around it.
>>
>>1666299
>How do you guys deal with translating a 3D model into an actual functional piece of a larger assembly.
Model them as separate self-contained parts in a larger project.
>Eg making screw holes to connect prints to other things
Just follow the official specs for various standard bolt and screw sizes. Add a chamfer/counterbore if needed. If you need threads, under about M5 tap or form. M6 and above you can print threads.
>Or printing an item that must slot onto something in the real world.
Takes a little practice. You get good at it fast though.
>I'm considering using strong magnets embedded in my prints as a stepping stone to something less expensive
Don't. Every piece of magnetic debris within a half mile will end up stuck to it. And you can never get all of it off.
>but joints and sockets etc are the sort of things I want to develop as none of my prints are single pieces.
Movable joints, or just snap-together?
>>
Is there an easy way to force Cura to put supports on a particular bit? I've messed with some settings but it just really wants to print this bit hanging over nothing and it obviously doesn't work.
>>
>>1666343
either use support blockers to remove supports from anywhere you don't want supports, or use modifier meshes(?) set to support.
>>
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>>1662142
Saw this shot on the plebit. Epic tho. And can't find the op. Found a few brows that might want some.

Anyone is this anon or knows him?
>>
>>1666132
What makes it so sciency? Looks kind of like natural ABS or PLA, judging by the color and bend radius
>>
>>1666301
Thanks for the tips, and snap together joints for the moment!
>>
>>1666365
We extruded all that with different types of additives that was not published before.
>>
>>1666281
Laser cutting transparent materials is incredibly hard because the light just passed through you need crutches like spray paint or certain wavelength
For cone engraving like glasses you also have to rig up rotation system because you can't use y axis due to z distortion so you have to spin it instead
>>
I want to buy a Prusa 3 mk3s but the only place I have that it would fit is within a kitchen cabinet... ik not great but I only have a small 1 bd apartment. Will it overheat/damage the cabinet or do they not get that hot?
>>
>spend money and time on printer
>now everything works perfectly
>no problems whatsoever
>kinda bored now
At last I truly see, the 3D printing hobby isn't about printing stuff it's maintaining your printer.
>>
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>>1666299
>How do you guys deal with translating a 3D model into an actual functional piece of a larger assembly.
By designing all of the parts in assembly mode.
>Eg making screw holes to connect prints to other things
Pic related. But most printers will print small diameter holes undersized, so you will need to model a little coupon with the holes in it, measure them, then adjust the model until they come out the precise size you want. For example I use 4-40 screws and thread-forming screws a fair amount and I will model those at 0.095" diameter with a .150" diameter chamfer and just drive the 4-40 screw into it to attach prints together.
>or designing sturdy interconnects for multiple printed parts to fit together securely
Test prints and fit-checks are normal. But you eventually find the tolerances on diameter and width for the kind of fit you want. Loose fit is easy, but press-fit or snug fit almost always require filing the mating portions because of how rough and irregular the surface of printed parts will be.

But there's always super glue. PLA bonds to itself extremely well with just super glue. But if they need to be bonded together in a precise alignment design them to use screws or roll pins at the joint.

There are lots of options for joinery. I'm primarily using hex nuts sockets and screws/bolts to pull the parts together.
>>
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What liquid can I use to seal up layers in a FDM printed bowl? (non food safe)
I've tried thinned down woodglue before but it dispenses again when it's exposed to water for too long.
So maybe something solvent based? Print is out of PETG.

Pic unrelated. A stamp I made, that works really well. The bottom is out of TPU.
>>
Is there a way to give my GCode a permanent Z offset? I'm out of adjustement on one of the bed screws, but the bed itself is perfectly level, just gotta offset it 0.1-0.2mm in the software and it should be fine.
>>
>>1666503

Why not just move the Z endstop lower
>>
>>1666507
Because my Chiron has two endstops, meaning I'd need to completely relevel, and the Z endstops are predrilled so moving them would require redrilling the threaded holes half a millimeter lower.
>>
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>>1666023
thats a nice print
>>
>>1666508

What about printing longer flags like in https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3395167

You can modify it with non-adjustable mounting holes to ensure the same length is used on both endstops.
>>
>>1666492
Try printing slower, with a bigger overlap between layers. I've printed three 0.8mm lines next to each other with 0.2mm overlap, for a total of 1.8mm thickness, that did the trick and got me a watertight FDM print (in PETG), held water for at least a couple days, untill it evaporated of course.
You could try clearcoating it?

What stamping pads are you using? Results on paper?

>>1666515
>Adjustable Z endstop flags
Dog bless you
>>
>>1666492
>What liquid can I use to seal up layers in a FDM printed bowl?
Polyurethane sealer
>>
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>>1666517
>What stamping pads are you using?
Self printed out of TPU

>Results on paper?
Only result I have is on human paper.
It was a gift for a friend (it's his logo). He got drunk in a club and used their stamp pad.

I'll try clearcoating it. Line overlapping is meh-ish, it's a big and complex part. 0.8mm walls (2x0.4mm) took already 24h to print.

>>1666522
I'll also look at this
>>
>that feel when the print pauses, you put in a bunch of magnets into perfectly fitting holes and then resume and watch the printer slowly cover them up
>>
>>1666503
M851 command
>>
>>1666193
idk about the sound part. i imagine 3dprinted stuff always sounding a little plasticy, obviously. i dont have much experience though, maybe it isnt
>>
>>1666267
does elephant foot compensation only work for the "perimeters" of the first layer, or for the entire first layer?
>>
>>1666462
cabinet is fine unless it's enclosed.
When you put a MK3 in an enclosure, you need to move the PSU outside for certain, possibly the einsy too.
>>
>>1666546
this is true awesome
>>
>>1666566
>does elephant foot compensation only work for the "perimeters" of the first layer, or for the entire first layer?
Probably depends on the slicer, but it will apply to everything on the first layer in Slic3r or PrusaSlicer.
>>
>>1666576
>cabinet is fine unless it's enclosed.
[like, fully enclosed, door shut and/or sealed]
>>
>>1666576
are you sure?

i have mine in a non-sealed enclosure and it never gets hotter than 35C ambient. can't see how that can be a problem for a psu
>>
>>1666503
at least slic3r has an option 'z offset' for this
>>
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I am going to be switching to the cii cooler on my wanhao i3 clone. This will leave the front bracket empty. What kind of meme should I mount here? I have a lit enclosure so I dont want to bother mounting LEDs.
>>
>>1666739
a tiny Buddha figurine.
>>
convince me not to buy a shitty flying bear printer from China. the mechanics look solid, but maybe every bit of hardware is garbage?
>>
>>1666576
Wrong on both counts, you can completely enclose it for hours at ABS temperatures with no ill effects (unless you like, drape a mylar sheet and then some blankets over it)

>>1666462
It'll be fine unless you do the above - it will even print ABS better if you keep the cabinet door closed.
>>
>>1666854
>Wrong on both counts, you can completely enclose it for hours at ABS temperatures with no ill effects
I want my printer to last for years. I know what the specs on the power components are like. It does take life off them, and when a PSU goes, it often takes everything else with it. Not a disaster, sure, but still.
> it will even print ABS better if you keep the cabinet door closed.
He's right about that
>>
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>>1666739

I planned on making an LED thing for mine, but I wound up taking it to work and forgetting about it.
>>
I need advice with editing the marlin config.
I want to add a second fan to my board which is BOARD_MKS_BASE
So i found a free pwm pin on the board, but now i don't know where in marlin should is put this second pin?
the problem is that there many differen pin files in the firmware and tons of references to FAN1_PIN
So where the fuck do i put the pin number so i can then control the fan with the standard M106 ?
>>
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finally
>>
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>>1666960
>>
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>>1666961
>>
>>1666961
I really hope those aren't tcms or else you are in for some baaaad time
>>
>>1666964
>I really hope those aren't tcms
they are
>>1666964
>you are in for some baaaad time
why?
>>
>>1666964
>tcm
wait, did you mean tcm or tmc?
>>
>>1666965
I don't want to ruin the surprise. Plug them in please
>>
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>>1666972
>I don't want to ruin the surprise. Plug them in please
Okay.
And?
>>
how can i increase the caps in an object so different parts are not fused together when they should be moving
>>
The lcd screen on my xyz printer is showing grey bars and I'm not sure if it's the cable or screen. I can't find replacements for the lcd or cable online ANYWHERE... so is it possible to just use a similar lcd cable? If so, what should I look for to identify the generic type? Lastly, if I need to replace the lcd, could I just use a different one or would that interfere with software? Thanks for any help...
>>
>>1667061
bars stay in the same place? It's the LCD. A bad cable will start out intermittent and slag larger areas of the screen (if not the whole thing).

Good news tho, LCDs are generally not much more expensive than the bloody cables. Shit ain't pricey until you get into, eg, VFD.
>>
>>1667085
Yes its continuous bars across whole screen. OK that's good to know, thanks. So since there aren't lcd replacements available online specifically for xyz 1.0 printers, could I use a different type without issue?
>>
>>1667093
>Yes its continuous bars across whole screen. OK that's good to know, thanks. So since there aren't lcd replacements available online specifically for xyz 1.0 printers, could I use a different type without issue?
It's going to be using some commodity type. There should be plenty of compatible replacements. Search around online, someone else has almost certainly already figured it out.
>>
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Hey guys troubleshooting my prints, new to this btw. Can someone help me figure out why I'm bad at this. Creality 3d pro, pla. Got uneven lines on the left and whatever's going on on the right side.
>>
>>1667153
Looks like you need to level your bed better.
>>
anyone have a sapphire pro chink printer? how is it? I'm thinking of buying one.
>>
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What am I missing here? I have an Anycubic i3 Mega-S, which has a 210x210x205mm build area, but Cura limits me to a roughly 197x197mm build area.
is it because the program is trying to compensate for the size of the carriage? how do I get access to those last few millimeters, just increase the size of the buildplate until it fits the actual area the hotend can move to?
>>
Guys what the heck is wrong with my printer? I noticed that my bed wasn’t reaching its goal temp and now my hot end can’t reach it. I am printing abs at 275/120.

I spent some time doing PID tunes with my fan on and all seemed well so I tried a print.

First print started out fine until it actually started printing and the fan turned on hotend dropped 50C.

Second print I turn the fan on (I always use 50% with abs) while it heats up and I got pic related. It took over 15 minutes to get to 272/275 then stayed at 272 for a while before a thermal runaway occurs.

Power supply bad? I’m gonna open up the box tomorrow morning.
>>
>>1667373

I upped the size for my Ender 3 profile. There appears to be a few millimeters of offset between the code and the real bed, but it worked. If you need to eek out a couple centimeters, give it a shot. Odds are the worst thing that’ll happen is it prints off the side of the bed.
>>
New Thread: >>1667384
>>
>>1667379
Fan pointing directly at hotend, cooling it off, possibly?
>>
>>1667373
at least on prusa slicer it's due to the skirt



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