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Is That A Ukulele In Your Pants Or Are You Just Happy To See Me? Edition

Old thread: >>1639870

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/7Sb4TVdy

>Need help with prints? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Bed & extruder temperature
>Print speed

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 7-9-2019]
Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 3
Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3 (Mk2 or Mk3)
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot or Ultimaker
Buyer beware: some chinkshit clones are garbage. Some can be genuinely good, though.
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusion 360 are free:
https://www.blender.org/
https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/
>>
Haven't printed or designed anything in months. Lost my motivation after weeks of trying and failing to clean up & print a figuring. What do?
>>
>>1644598
print aneros
>>
>>1644598
Start off with something productive first, construct some stuff to keep your place tidy.
Kitchen, bath, hobby workshop, whatever.
Look around and find things that don't have a place, construct anf print a place for them.
Use your printer for home improvement before everything elde, you will learn to love it
>>
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I could use some advice. I got my first 3d printer about a week ago (anycubic i3 mega) and
I noticed that it takes a lot longer than predicted to print anything- especially complex parts.
This is because the printer seems to pause before and after every travel move.
This is not predicted in the toolpath preview and prints often take 2-3 times longer than calculated by cura.
I tried setting minimum layer time to 0, which seemed to help but did not fix the problem.
>>
>>1644637
It sounds like the jerk/acceleration settings for your printer might be at fault.
>I tried setting minimum layer time to 0
That only impacts how long each layer takes as a minimum, which if you are printing layers with a very small cross-section means that the printer will either slow down that layer to meet the minimum, or move to a dwell position for the remaining time. This setting allows the deposited layer time to cool before making another layer.
>>
Difference between the Ender 3 and the Ender 3 Pro?
>>
>>1644650
insignificant
>>
>>1644637
That is just the retraction, if you turn it off your prints will print quicker but have a lot of stringing.
Retraction relieves the pressure of the filament so that it doesn't keep extruding.
>>
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>>1641971
That worked perfectly.
>>
>>1644650
the extrusion that the Y axis sits on is twice as wide, which doesn't matter and is just an excuse to charge $30 more.
>>
Anyone using paint 3d to design? I'm too dumb for cad.
>>
>>1644755
>I'm too dumb for cad.
CAD is just typing numbers while drawing shapes. It's not complicated.
>>
Where is a reliable place to buy a CR-10? I heard the creality3d shop isn't an official website and really don't want to deal with returns on a counterfeit.
>>
>>1644774
https://www.creality3donline.com/ is the official store as linked to on their website. I bought my ender 3 through them and wasn't screwed
>>
Has anyone ever tried enabling and calibrating Linear Advance for their printer? Have always been curious if it can improve a bowden setup by any amount
>>
>>1644810
>Linear Advance
wat
>>
>>1644810
I started to mess with this myself, but the community says it's a bandaid for those who cant dial in their retracts correctly. I haven't seen a significant difference with the values I've tried. It does cause problems for me on small cylinders though. Any amount of advance completely ruins the seam.
>>
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I just tried wiring a PC fan into one of these switches so I could have a fan to switch on and off for an exhaust system in my enclosure. Turns out running all those volts through a 120mm fan isnt smart.
>>
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>>1644895
>125V case fan
what is that, like 3 billion CFM?
>>
>>1644904
I took another fan that didn't explode and tried it again with a 12V power supply for an old drill. This fan isnt spinning. What gives? I don't know shit about electronics as you can tell from my previous post. Wires are different colors. Copper and aluminum?
>>
>>1644908
if you hooked the fan that doesn't spin up to 125V AC it's dead even if it didn't pop.
>>
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>>1644910
>if you hooked the fan that doesn't spin up to 125V AC it's dead even if it didn't pop.
Turns out I had to reengage that button on my outlet. Anyway I got the second fan working like this. I feel pretty stupid about the first fan.
>>
>>1644914
let me get this straight anon, you had that switch plugged into the wall looking like that? Seriously, stop what you're doing before you get yourself killed. 125V at 60Hz will stop your heart before you can react.
>>
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>>1644915
>stop what you're doing before you get yourself killed
the deed is done
>>
What kind of epoxy should I get to glue these letters in? I was thinking about filling in the whole thing with clear epoxy but I don't know how easy that would be and not get bubbles...
>>
>>1644923
what letters?
and "bar top" epoxy gets good results if you just pour it in and don't play with it.
>>
>>1644939
I mean. "what plastic for the letters"
I'm drinking, if it's not obvious.
>>
>>1644941
oh its all pla
>>
>>1644943
I think the hardest part will be getting the letters straight...
The epoxy is a fine idea and would look sharp. Otherwise you are probably looking at cyanoacrylate (super glue)
Superglue only hardens in the absence of air, which means it won't fill gaps, as gaps are full of air. So that could make it tricky with your textured bottom.
If you put those letters were all on a backing plate that you could color or paint to match (or contrast) and that plate snap-fit into the main part you might have a better chance of success.
>>
>>1644947
Yeah I will probably go with epoxy I just don't really know which one to get. I don't need a lot...
>>
>>1644959
any will do really. So will superglue. Or acetone/MEK. PLA glues well.
>>
>>1644947
>Superglue only hardens in the absence of air, which means it won't fill gaps
That's not why it doesn't fill gaps. Superglue specifically hardens by hydrating; it needs water to cure, which it gets from the air.
>>
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Anon who printed a ukulele here. I've decided to use fusion 360 to make a brand new and unique instrument. What should I name this project?

The top three holes will be for tuning pegs.
>>
>>1644995
Balastubby
>>
>>1644995
dulcimer
>>
>>1644995
the faggot triangle
>>
>>1644998
Sounds like a interesting name. Looks like a harp, 3 strings like a balalaika, and will be designed to be easy to play like a ukulele.
>>
>>1644995
trianglophone

>>1644959
You should super glue the letters in place so they're neatly aligned then pour epoxy to fill
>>
>>1644661
Glad to have helped. I'd also suggest at the very least cutting that sheet in half before post-curing, if not trimming the supports entirely, those seem like they'd be fairly brittle and might take off chunks if you remove supports when it's fully cured.
>>
>>1644908
>I don't know shit about electronics
>>1640124
>>
>>1644995
fingerbox
>>
>>1644995
Congrats anon, you've invented a shitty balalaika.
>>
>>1644914
>>1644920
Why?
Why the fuck didn't you just unscrew the switch to properly wire it!?
>>
>>1644995
triforced
>>
>>1644995
the triangle of zinthar
>>
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>>1644914
Oh shit
>>
>>1645206
>just unscrew the switch to properly wire it!?
I couldn't get in there aren't any screws and I was breaking the plastic so I gave up and did that.
>>
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>>1644995
I modified the instrument design a bit. Added a nut, more space for frets and now it looks like a crappy balalaika. I thought I was going to be original.
>>
>>1645359
add buzzing bridges like on hurdy gurdies
>>
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first print with mk3. thoughts?
>>
>>1645435
rough
>>
>>1645436
th-thanks
>>
>>1645436
tiny little print? The prusa silver always looks like that.
>>
>>1645438
Look into printing calibration squares to get your Z-Level where you want it to be.
>>
>>1645440
is it too high?
>>
>I'd better use this cheap pla
>Setup long print over night
>In the morning print came out underextruded
>Clogged hot end
huh
Thats the last time I buy microcenter pla
>>
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Is there a definitive reason as to why you'd save up $1500 to buy a lulzbot mini 2 over buying a CR-10?

Yeah sure auto bed leveling is cool, but $1100 cool? Also wanted to ask about the belt driven Z-axis, how will it hold up or how reliable will it be compared to a lead screw? Theres so few video reviews of the mini 2, its amazon page has fairly positive reviews and a minority of unhappy people, the few youtube videos I see of the mini 2 have people complaining about the nozzle and other things, I've also heard that the dual extruder for the taz 6 has issues ( looked into it for work purposes because company has a taz 6)
If stuff breaks I hate the idea of mailing stuff to colarado for who knows how long at a time.

Anyone here who owns a mini 2 with some thoughts about it? Is 'reliability' and ease of use and consistency worth the price?
>>
>>1645470
>Yeah sure auto bed leveling is cool, but $1100 cool?
I hear actually working right all the time without another $1000 in upgrades and months of dicking around is pretty cool.
>>
>>1645470
>$1500
>160mm print area
>3mm filament
This sounds awful. Why the Mini 2 and not a Prusa MK3S? You'd be saving $500-750 (depending on kit or assembled), and it doesn't look like there are any extra unusual features over other 3D printers that are under $1000.

>>1645475
This is the only thing I can think of, but I haven't worked with the Lulzbot printers so I personally don't know about their reliability
>>
>>1645476
>This is the only thing I can think of, but I haven't worked with the Lulzbot printers so I personally don't know about their reliability
I have a close friend with a lulzbot. He's never had any issue with it (years now). Runs it stock.
Personally I have a Prusa. Love the multimaterial upgrades.
>>
>>1645477
[and ftr-- haven't reconsidered the mk3s decision once since getting it]
>>
>>1645477
>I have a close friend with a lulzbot. He's never had any issue with it (years now). Runs it stock.
Oh, that said, he *is* considering converting it to 1.75mm. He wants to try out the Prusa MMU2s on it.
>>
>>1645470
>Anyone here who owns a mini 2 with some thoughts about it?
Pewpew guy has a printfarm of them and is extremely happy with the reliability and ease of printing. YOu could probably buy a loaded CR-10S Pro XXX for less and have more features, but it's still classic chinkshit vs. proper printers: chinkshit has a large chance of requiring tinkerage. Consider a Prusa though, if you're doubting the budget.
>>
>>1645435
>thoughts?

Models like this are best printed with the text oriented vertically because you get better resolution.
>>
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Received my i3 Mega. 4 out of 6 prints ended up in Spaghetti (and getting ripped off of the bed). What could be the cause of this?
I (already) cleaned the bed with Iso and leveled it again.
>>
>>1645572
Nozzle too far away from bed. Look at your skirt, the layers aren't blended together. That indicates that the nozzle isn't close enough and that the plastic isn't being oozed out to the correct line width on the first layer, giving it bad contact with the bed.
>>
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>>1645470
>Is there a definitive reason as to why you'd save up $1500 to buy a lulzbot mini 2 over buying a CR-10?
Do you have free time to dick around with the printer? Or do you just want to print? My oldest lulzbot mini has over 10,000 print hours on it. The extruder was replaced once, the PEI was replaced once. No other significant service.
> Is 'reliability' and ease of use and consistency worth the price?
For me, definitely yes. They're very easy to work on when they do have issues, and the thumbdrive they include with each one has STL files for every part on the printer than you can print. I recently had to rebuild my spare extruder by reprinting half of the printed parts due to wear from abrasive filament. The other secondary reason I went with them was stateside parts availability.
>>1645476
>$1500
You can buy the slightly older v1.04 mini for $900 to $1,000 refurbished. You will lose out on a handful of features. But if price is your concern but you still want reliability then get a Prusa.
>3mm filament
>This sounds awful.
You can run 1.75mm filament in it just fine. Just change the slicer settings and be aware that one of the failure modes if the print starts too low/squeezed that the 1.75mm filament can buckle or just get chewed through by the extruder gear. This only happens if the nozzle is dirty enough that the auto-leveling reads too low.
I'm printing almost exclusively with 1.75mm filament.
>>1645518
I wouldn't really want to use any other brand or make of printer for production except maybe a Prusa with removable built plates. But those would probably take up more space. Kit printers are out of the question for a production environment. I don't have free time in my life to be diagnosing printer issues. Especially not across multiple printers. I dealt with that ONCE when I have 4 monoprice select minis in my farm. They each only lasted about 2 or 3 months before needing constant repairs.
>>
>>1645579
For what do you have so many printers? (Online) Shop? Running the hobby on steroids? If you have a shop, what kind of parts do you mostly print?
>>
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>>1645579
What slicer are you using and can you comment about the belt driven z axis vs the lead screws in the mini 2?

At work I've just been using CURA LE and printing stuff I need fast at the fast preset for the pla filament we have with good results and running things overnight on high detail always coming back to a successful no abberation or real artifacts print now that I have everything calibrated.

(someone at work switched extruders without flashing the printer on our taz 6 and the head drove into the bed washers failing to auto level)

admittedly, I do kind of like just putting my cad models into the slicer and just walking away for hours. I think I'll save up for a mini 2. God forbid there is a sale on prime day or anywhere else I have some credit available.

Thank you for your input anons.
>>
>>1645530
>Models like this are best printed with the text oriented vertically because you get better resolution.
wat
seriously, please explain. I print lots of text, flat always works better. Best on the underside of a print, on top is second best.
>>
>>1645577
this. Anon nailed it.
>>
>>1645686
same reason why people print lithophanes standing up. from the z axis the lowest "resolution" you get is your nozzle size.

So I can have as low as 0.04 one way or 0.4 the other with a 0.4mm nozzle.
>>
>>1645709
>same reason why people print lithophanes standing up. from the z axis the lowest "resolution" you get is your nozzle size.
Oh, I see. Depends on your material. PLA, yeah maybe I'll buy it. PETG etc? Ha ha ha, no. Just because the printer can turn on a dime, doesn't mean the material can.

I print text on the XY plane because I spent months dialing in both ways. Text is going to come out subjectively better lying down if the point is to read it and make it look good.
>>
>>1645709
>same reason why people print lithophanes standing up. from the z axis the lowest "resolution" you get is your nozzle size.
No, the smallest stroke width you get is approximately the nozzle size. Your resolution is still whatever the printer can step. That's a big difference.
>>
>>1645579
>those printbeds
that some garolite? you printing nylon?
>>
>>1645731
Given lack of enclosures, I'd say no.
>>
>>1645732
what other printbed materials look like that? it's not PEI
>>
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I modified a Prusa mk2 in my lab to print ultem, I'm able to print stuff like poly carbonate really well but I haven't been able to get the Ultem to stick at all. I've tried printing on jsut the aluminum bed, Kapton tape, Glass, hairspray, nothing seems to get it to stick.
Nozzle Temp: 350C
Bed Temp: 190C
all print speeds are less than 30mm/s
Enclosure temp fluctuates between 60-80C

Gonna try putting a PEI surface on my aluminum bed and use the Nano Polymer adhesive sold by Vision Miner. Any thoughts?
>>
>>1645733
glass over a silicone heater at a guess
>>
>>1645734
>Gonna try putting a PEI surface on my aluminum bed and use the Nano Polymer adhesive sold by Vision Miner. Any thoughts?
tried one of the rough powdercoated PEI sheets? I've not tried ultem--- but it's been like dark magic for absolutely everything else.
>>
>>1645736
At some point The Salamander claimed it was the single best thing about the MK3s and I thought 'yeah, right, bull'. When they finally became available without a wait I got one to try it and sunnuvabitch, it wasn't hype. They're that good.
>>
>>1645738
[got one of the name brand Prusa ones BTW, I don't do chinkshit anymore]
>>
>>1645637
that pic has me dyin
>>
>>1645746
Sad there's no capacitor dropper
>>
is my z axis too high
>>
>>1645754
yes
>>
>>1644589
I want to make a recommendation for the 1000$ pricepont. On my recomendation a friend bought A Craftbot plus and testprints on default settings are comming out considerably better than on my 2012 Makergear M2.
Reasons I recommend this printer:
>Core XY so no fast moving bed and no H-Bot momentum issiues
>Direct drive extruder avoiding bowden
>Frame allows for easy full enclosure
>Despite having it's own software its compatible with other slicers
cons:
>No glass bed out of the box, aluminium with kapton layer that will go to shit eventually
>No autoleveling
>Firmware is apparently propriety
meh point:
>pretty standard 250x200x200mm build volume

Please discuss
>>
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>>1645604
>If you have a shop, what kind of parts do you mostly print?
I sell assembled scratchbuilt Nerfs (formerly not airsofts) and hardware kits for people to print their own.
>>1645637
>What slicer are you using
Cura GUI inside Octoprint (one server per printer). So I control them all through a browser with 7 tabs open in order of location in the closet.
>can you comment about the belt driven z axis vs the lead screws in the mini 2?
I haven't been able to justify the extra cost of the Mini 2 so I don't have any experience with them.
>>1645731
It's just silicone heating element under glass with PEI on top. Makes removing PLA and ABS prints easy. Isn't advisable for PETG though.
>>
>>1645757
forgot to add single extruder as con or meh point
>>
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>>1645757
>cantilever
>no auto leveling
>shit firmware
>build volume smaller than an ender 3
>>
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>>1645756
there was definitely supposed to be a picture there
>>
>>1645762
if that is the underside, Z is *far* too high.
Also make sure the print is actually *on the bed* in the slicer. Sometimes they import and hover just over.
>>
>>1645762
z offset too big and/or flow too low
>>
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>>1645763
>*
>*
>>
>>1645761
For $1000? Seriously? Prusa and MMU2S. No brainer.
>>
>>1645761
>cantilever
where?
>>
>>1645766
Fuck off. It's markup from Zephyr, which was around before your parents were born.
>>
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>>1645768
the bed is cantilevered.
>>
>>1645769
Intergalactic white-magic FTW
>>
>>1645769
the reddit cope
>>
>>1645773
https://stuff.mit.edu/afs/sipb/project/doc/izephyr/html/node29.html
zephyr predates IRC. It's from MIT Project Athena of the mid 80s.
>>
>>1645771
Stratasys F370 had a cantilevered bed to. It doesn't matter because the force on it is static.
>>
>>1645763
>>1645765
k will try lowering it a bit tonight and report back
>>
>>1645776
>It doesn't matter because the force on it is static.
All those acceleration and jerk settings would beg to differ. If you can feel the printer running by putting your hand on it, the loads are not static.
>>
>>1645777
is this the Prusa anon? Did you get a Prusa nameblock test print with your machine? If so, look at the underside, it will show the proper squash/texture.
>>
>>1645776
The only reason Stratasys is as big as they are is because they got into the game 30 years ago. They make mediocre printers.
>>
>>1645778
>If you can feel the printer running by putting your hand on it, the loads are not static.
compared to the bed sitting on the Y-Axis they are
>>
>>1645781
>compared to the bed sitting on the Y-Axis they are
well yeah, which is why cantilever works at all, doesn't mean it works well.
If you're using z-hop/retraction, whatever, you're going to get at least some bounce on the bed. Cantilevers have to be really beefy to work well.
>>
>>1645779
yea it's the mk3. i don't remember seeing that in the box, but i will check again
>>
>>1645785
Was it a kit? I'm not sure they come with the kits.

...if you don't have one, I'll take a good pic of mine. Actually, fuck it, hold on....
>>
>>1645786
yep I got the kit. and sweet thanks homie
>>
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>>1645788
....had to find it...
OK, so, front pic. Let me see if I can get the light reflecting off the back right to show the texture.
>>
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>>1645791
And the back. I think I got it. See how the lines squash together completely and the layer above doesn't show at all?

Ignore the edges, it's been in a box of tools rattling around for months.
>>
>>1645793
You want to do the first-layer calibration and keep lowering Z .10-.25mm at a time until the lines squash together and the nozzle just barely starts to dig into the printed filament causing some of it to ridge and ball up. Then back off about .20mm and you're ready.
>>
>>1645757
>>$1000
>>No autoleveling
why.jpg

I mean, the MakerGear M2 doesn't either, but I consider that printer to be $1,000 more expensive than it should given that they haven't added any features to it in years.
>>
>>1645794
that's the lowest Z you'll ever want to use, gives max adhesion, will elephant-foot about .1-.2mm or so (you can compensate for that in the slicer). You can back off .05mm-.1mm or higher if you really need more first-layer detail/precision [like printing colored text]. but the point where the lines no longer mere, you've gone too far.
>>
>>1645794
Oh shit, decimal point error, belay that! Lemme try again:

You want to do the first-layer calibration and keep lowering Z .010-.025mm at a time until the lines squash together and the nozzle just barely starts to dig into the printed filament causing some of it to ridge and ball up. Then back off about .020mm-.050 and you're ready.
>>
>>1645798
This one is right. Sorry about that man. I'm just an old machinist in Burgerstan, I'm used to working in even mils, not this metric stuff.
>>
>>1645793
>>1645794
>>1645798
ah yea i see now. the little diagram in the 3d printing guide they have isn't too clear imo. i will work on it tonight and post results. i had a feeling it was too high since it wasn't really a solid piece on the bottom.
>>
>>1645801
eggsellent, godspeed Anon
>>
>>1645797

I don't get why y'all are making such a big deal out of auto-levelling like it's some fancy elite feature... You can level a bed just fine without it, and if you really need it you can get a BLtouch clone for ~16$...
>>
>>1645823
>I don't get why y'all are making such a big deal out of auto-levelling like it's some fancy elite feature...
It certainly shouldn't be.
> You can level a bed just fine without it
...if your time has no value...
> and if you really need it you can get a BLtouch clone for ~16$
So why isn't it coming on the printers with firmware integration by default?
>>
>>1645823
>BLtouch clone
>clone
>shit that doesn't work but hey it was only $16

Chinese logic. Worst part is you guys are so cheap, that bullshit works.
>>
>>1645827
>...if your time has no value...

You do it once and then you don't need to anything about it unless you mess about with the Z axis or bed. I don't get why it would be a waste of time.

>So why isn't it coming on the printers with firmware integration by default?

Perhaps it's that for a bottom-dollar printer like the Ender3, 16$ makes up a significant percentage of the cost and it's not really an important feature to have.

>>1645828

>shit that doesn't work

It works well enough judging from the reviews i've seen on it.
>>
>>1645832
>You do it once and then you don't need to anything about it unless you mess about with the Z axis or bed.
Like... a removable coated bed? Hmmmm.

>It works well enough judging from the reviews i've seen on it.
Maybe it does, maybe it doesn't. The problem is if everything on a printer is 95% reliable, when you sum it all up, something doesn't work right on just about every print.
*fiddle* *fiddle* *fiddle*
I mean, come on, even the best 3D printers are still pretty cranky beasts. You want even less reliability?
>>
>>1645833
>Like... a removable coated bed?

Oh yeah, i didn't consider that because i use printbite. Does the act of taking the bed out and putting it back in affect the height?

>You want even less reliability?

I get things like linear motion or heater components breaking down if they're low quality, but there's not really much to go wrong on bed probes. Funny thing is that you can get better or at least similar accuracy with an inductive probe, which are even cheaper.
>>
>>1645847
>Does the act of taking the bed out and putting it back in affect the height?
Yes. That's what auto-leveling is for.
> but there's not really much to go wrong on bed probes.
I see people complaining about them fairly regularly. If the repeatability tolerances are poor, they're going to cause more trouble than they cure. Typical switches don't have activation repeatability under .01mm.
>Funny thing is that you can get better or at least similar accuracy with an inductive probe, which are even cheaper.
Yup, but you need electronics and code to handle those, and that costs, like, an extra 30 cents.
>>
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Why the fucking fuck does this piece of shit keep jamming?

I started coming back to an all-too-familiar "thunk" sound that the skipping extruder motor makes after switching to an all-metal hotend. Figured it had to be heat creep due to shitty airflow around cheap heatsink, since the filament has never caused me problems with clogging after I made a box for it.

Made a water-cooled hotend for it (mostly just because I had the parts lying around and the equipment to do so), but it's STILL jamming, albeit not as often. No amount of fuckery with the retraction settings fixes it, either.

The only thing I can think of is that the heatbreak is bored poorly (oversized) enough that half-melted plastic is getting far enough up and away from the melt zone that it's solidifying to the point of stalling the motor. Does this sound likely?

Printer is a MPS Mini. I'm pretty sure I could alleviate the symptom with a bigger feed motor, but I'd rather cure the cause.
>>
>>1645857
dude u got chinked
it happens
>>
>>1645857
have you measured the efficiency of your homebrew watercooling?
>>
>>1645857
>Why the fucking fuck does this piece of shit keep jamming?
chinkshit
But more helpfully, what does the filament look like after a cold pull? Can you even cold pull it? If not, that's a pretty good indication of what's wrong (gap between inner PTFE tube and heatbreak chamfer. possibly due to the tube being able to move during retracts.)
>>
>>1645862
Also, dude, trying random shit without having any idea what's actually wrong is pretty stupid.
>>
File: tube_movement.gif (3.79 MB, 400x400)
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> possibly due to the tube being able to move during retracts
Check this first. Even if you don't have a truebowden going into the heatsink/break, you probably have a liner tube.
>>
>>1645865
If not it's part time to break down the block, heatbreak, heatsink, tube, and inspect it all. Carefully.
>>
>>1645865
[oh, duh, pic clearly shows a true bowden. And a nice big gap between the push fitting and the push fitting ring. I think we have retraction movement.
>>
>>1645871
At least the waterblock will make for some really nice performance once you fix the real problem.
>>
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>>1645802
Top is the first print from last night, middle is intermediate adjustment, and the bottom is the final print. I think we got it. Had to lower Z offset from around -675 to -800
>>
>>1645882
That's the Prusa silver they usually include, right? Bottom looks pretty good, .800 is in the nominal ballpark. Looks like you're set.
>>
>>1645884
BTW, that silver makes the print seams easy to see, but it's otherwise a really good base filament. Very low stringing. Keep some around to judge your other filament purchases by.
>>
>>1645884
Yea the prusa silver. Looking at getting the hatchbox red, white, and black on Amazon. perhaps they'll have some prime day deals
>>
>>1645888
will do. thanks for the advice
>>
>>1645891
you're welcome, have fun!
>>
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>>1645859
>dude u got chinked

I mean, the hotend assembly I stole everything from DID only cost like $7...

>>1645861
>have you measured the efficiency of your homebrew watercooling?

Based on some quick maths, I have sufficient flow to remove the heat generated by the heater with less than 5°C rise between inlet/outlet of the water block. The water entering the (oversized as hell) radiator is currently ~3°C above ambient, for a total rise over ambient of 8°C. That's a conservative estimate on a worst-case scenario with the heater running flat-out.

I have no idea what the exact thermal resistance between the cold side of the heatbreak and the water itself is, but I can't imagine it adds more than a degree, given the amount of contact between the block and the heatbreak. Not like it'd be even across the entire contact area, anyway, but still.

>>1645862
No indication of any issues there. And, again, it's an all-metal hotend. The PTFE doesn't enter the heatbreak, it just sits at the top of it to guide filament in. Even if it was completely missing, it shouldn't be causing this particular issue, I don't think.

>Also, dude, trying random shit without having any idea what's actually wrong is pretty stupid.

How else am I supposed to figure out what's wrong? It's not like I didn't already figure out it wasn't clogging, a kinked tube, bad retraction, or pretty much anything else I could think of (or find suggestions on) before going nuts with a water block.

>>1645871
>>1645865

It did actually have a small section of "liner" in it that was little more than a guide for the filament before it entered the heatbreak. Just discovered this fitting allows me to push the PTFE all the way through it, obviating the need for that piece, though. Took it out and stuffed the main tube all the way in, IDK, maybe it'll help.
>>
>>1645931
>And, again, it's an all-metal hotend. The PTFE doesn't enter the heatbreak
retractions will still pull filament back out of the heatbreak. If you have a gap between the bowden PTFE (or liner if you have that)and the heatbreak entrance chamfer, liquid filament will occasionally make it into that gap, cool, and jam your extruder.
>>
>>1645934
this ain't idle theory-- if you have a gap, it will cause jams. You're getting jams. Check it.
>>
>>1645931
>How else am I supposed to figure out what's wrong?
Well, dang, you coulda built a whole new printer. Just saying constructing a waterblock system as a first guess is... kinda extreme.
>>
>>1645931
>>dude u got chinked
>I mean, the hotend assembly I stole everything from DID only cost like $7...
That's exactly what getting chinked is. "Aw, it was only a few bucks. I won't complain."
>>
>>1645934

As mentioned, I fixed this just for the sake of reducing parts count (and I'll try anything at this point), what with the extra tube, but, again, I just don't see any way that could be the case in a properly-functioning all-metal hotend.

The entire purpose of an such hotend is that the PTFE tube isn't anywhere near the melt zone, allowing you to comfortably work with materials that have higher melting points. The heatbreak itself encapsluates the cold zone, transition zone, and top of the melt zone. If liquid plastic is making it all the way up to the top of the heat break, there's something very wrong with your hotend's heat sink. Doubly so for my particular setup, because the filament should be stone cold before it's even halfway up the heatbreak.

In a normal heatbreak, yeah, I can see how a gap between the tube and heatbreak could cause problems if it's near or in the transition zone, but that shouldn't be an issue here.
>>
>>1645939
>Just saying constructing a waterblock system as a first guess is... kinda extreme

I'm an amateur machinist/"robot guy". It's a pretty straightforward part, if you have a mill/lathe, and I have boxes of PC water cooling crap from back when that was a thing I did.

Plus, wasn't a first guess...though I did use it as an excuse/motivation to actually get around to it.

>coulda built a whole new printer

I plan on it. That's half the reason I made the block. It'll have a heated build chamber, which isn't likely to play nice with a normal, air-cooled machine.
>>
>>1645857
>it's STILL jamming
Check the hot-end through and nozzle for push-to-connect fitting cleats. They tend to wear out over time and snap off, then work their way into the nozzle or throat of the extruder.
>>
>>1645944
>The entire purpose of an such hotend is that the PTFE tube isn't anywhere near the melt zone

No. It's to keep PTFE away from heat that will degrade it. It does not mean molten filament never makes it back out the cold side of the heatbreak. Especially as you're running a bowden, which means you have pretty long retractions, and those retractions are going to pull partly molten or even just softened filament back up.

*shrug* You're having the jams not me. You can check it or not, I can't force you.
>>
How do you go from this...
>>
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To this...
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>>1645954
... to this?!
>>
>>1645957
about tree-fiddy
>>
>>1645957
>cardboard resonance table meme
>>
>>1645944
>again, I just don't see any way that could be the case in a properly-functioning all-metal hotend.
I thought it wasn't functioning properly, that's why you're here. :-D
>>
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What causes the rough bits on like on top of the nose area?
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>>1645971
if I'm seeing properly, Z axis retractions.
>>
>>1645971
>>1645974
you can test that; if you're using Slic3r or a derivative, move the seam to the rear and face the frog forward. if all the rough spots move to a line along the back, bingo.
>>
>>1645974
>>1645975
k I'll look into that. That model was just the preloaded tree frog model on the sd card that comes with the prusa kit
>>
>>1645953
>No. It's to keep PTFE away from heat that will degrade it

Potato, potahto.

The bowden tube on the MPS Mini is pretty short, as the printer itself isn't exactly large. My retractions are only 3mm, most of which (all, ideally) I imagine is just going to taking up the bit of slack that is inherent to a bowden setup. I just don't see how any plastic would make it that far and stay semisolid, especially with the level of cooling I have going on here. I guess it's not impossible, and I don't exactly have many possibilities left, but still.

How would I even check, though? I could disassemble the hotend without clearing the jam the next time it does it, but previous examination hasn't shown any of the obvious protrusions I would expect in that area. Though, if I'm lucky and you're correct, the removal of the small sleeve will have fixed the issue and I'll just never find out for sure.

>>1645962
>I thought it wasn't functioning properly, that's why you're here
>>
>>1645977
>>1645962
>>1645953
>>1645952
>>1645946
>>1645944
fucking christ just print a clip for your push fit connector you fuckwit
>>
>>1645976
Yep, recognized that :-)

>>1645977
>Potato, potahto.
It's an important difference. You keep saying there's no way soft/liquid filament will ever make it back out of the heatbreak. I know otherwise. Not on your printer for sure, of course, but it's a regular and normal occurrence on others, even direct extruders.
> How would I even check, though?
Well, a cold pull next time it jams would tell you for sure, and eliminate other possibilities. You could also pull out your 'liner', feed that nice Capricorn tube all the way in, then during a print, feel for movement, both of the ring in relation to the push fitting, and the tube in relation to the ring.

And yes, very possible removing that small tube fixed the issue.
>>
>>1645977
dude just increase the current your extruder stepper is getting
chances are it ain't getting enough, pushing that hot gooey plastic can be hard work sometimes
>>
>>1645981
>dude just increase the current your extruder stepper is getting
if he's skipping that will just grind the filament and make jams even worse because then he'll not be able to pull it out without complete disassembly.
>>
>>1645984
you're delusional, the fact that he's skipping tells us nothing about how hard it is to actually push the plastic
>grind the filament and make jams even worse because then he'll not be able to pull it out without complete disassembly.
lmao at u
>>
>>1645988
>you're delusional
pardon, but could you put on a trip so I can filter you please?
>>
>>1645988
actually, oh right, bowden not direct.
But still, get fucked eh.
>>
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>>1645990
>>
>>1645991
Bowden... with a waterblock...
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>>1645991
even with a direct it wouldn't require a complete disassembly to pull out a piece of plastic lmao
>>
>>1645992
Hello Dyatlov! Blown up any reactors today? :-)
>>
>>1645994
if you're lucky, no, if the tip isn't clogged and you can push more filament in you're OK. But if it breaks off because the gear ground through most of the filament and the tip is clogged, you're fucked. You're not going to have anything left sticking out to get a grip on.
>>
>>1645734
>modified a Prusa mk2 in my lab to print ultem
Are you me? I've been modifying the MK2S we have at work to print more exotic materials (PEKK, PEEK, more in the future) and Ultem was the next step.
>190C bed temp
What bed are you using? That's the only thing that's stopping me from getting consistently good prints right now. I'm trying to find something that runs off 12V but most are just run-of-the-mill PCBs that barely pull 100C, let alone the 140+ I need.

Your printed parts also look decidedly non-standard, what are they made of?

>Any thoughts?
Rough up the Kapton surface with some 1000+ grit sandpaper, PEKK went from not wanting to stick at all to just about peeling off the kapton. Go slow, too, 10-15mm/s seemed to be about the right speed for me to get good first layers. Don't know how applicable this is to Ultem, but it's worth a try, at least.
>>
>>1645780
This, nobody uses the Stratasys printers we have anymore because they're slow, expensive to run, and slicing is a pain
>>
>>1645980
>And yes, very possible removing that small tube fixed the issue.

It didn't. Ree. Only new info this brings is that I noticed that it's doing it semi-consistently after a brief "fill gap between wall" type movement where it's not really extruding much material. Then it skips a few times before managing to resume normal operation.

>>1645979
Made one out of some music wire. Still does it.

>>1645981
>>1645984

It's a MPS Mini. Extruder motor isn't capable of grinding filament. It just stalls and skips steps.


Anyway, I think I figured it out. LARPed as the extruder motor and managed to get it to jam deliberately. I can't determine for sure what the mechanics of it are, but the issue seems to be that retractions, even small ones, are able to pull just enough material past the transition zone that it slightly jams the incoming filament. Presumably this is more an effect of filament creeping along the side and binding against the walls, rather than a mass forming a solid, cold plug. With certain retraction patterns in between small amounts of feed, I can get this effect to compound itself to the point that it gets impossible to feed more filament in. Interestingly, this is easily fixed by just retracting it sufficiently far. I imagine the same thing happens with normal heatbreaks, but the radical difference in friction and adhesion between the filament/PTFE and filament/stainless steel means that it's not a problem.

Nothing is coming up anywhere near the top of the heatbreak. In fact, some basic testing indicates that the cold end of the transition zone is 9-11mm short of the heat break. Additionally, the transition zone itself is tiny, in the neighborhood of ~3mm (though I imagine this would extend down somewhat during long, heavy, continuous extrusion).

Tl;dr: All-metal heatbreaks aren't the default for a reason. Looks like my only real recourse options are a more swole extruder motor or a heatbreak with a polished barrel.
>>
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>>1646016

...which I guess brings to mind my last question:

Are these "titanium alloy" "bore polished" heatbreaks I'm seeing on eBay/Amazon worth shit or snake oil? I do vaguely remember something about titanium being somewhat more slippery than steel/stainless. Obviously, a polished bore is going to be better than a roughly bored one, but I'd rather not waste my time if it doesn't make much difference.

Then again, it wouldn't take much of a difference for this thing to Just Werk™ as it is...
>>
>>1646016
OK, what does a cold pull look like? Pic please.
It does sound like a crappy heatbreak, but...

FTR, all metalE3D here with multifilament. Repeated automatic full retraction and reload every minute. No jams. It's not that it's all-metal.

I'll be pissed if the fuckwit was right and you just need higher extruder current.
>>
>>1646018
>Are these "titanium alloy" "bore polished" heatbreaks I'm seeing on eBay/Amazon worth shit or snake oil?
American/european or chink?
Eg, the Slice ones are for real.
That said, Don't. Do. ChinkShit.
>>
>>1646018
>Are these "titanium alloy" "bore polished" heatbreaks I'm seeing on eBay/Amazon worth shit or snake oil?
jeez, spend ten bucks and get an e3d
>>
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>>1646019
>FTR, all metalE3D here with multifilament

Yeah, but I'm guessing not with the tiny motors the MPS Mini sports.

It's also possible that the water block is working _too_ well, and that a longer transition zone helps prevent this issue. Though this would conflict with what I've heard/read about wanting the sharpest transition possible between the heater block and the heat sink.


It doesn't show well in the image, but there's a clear imprint of the bore's finish left on the filament. It's about as smooth as a record. Somehow, I think that might not be ideal.

>>1646020
>Don't. Do. ChinkShit.

muh savings...
>>
>>1646033
>Yeah, but I'm guessing not with the tiny motors the MPS Mini sports.
Oh, definitely not.
>>
>>1646033
wwwoooooooah, what's that?
I mean that smoothness is not good, but you have a *classic* 'feed tube is not staying seated' knot of filament in there. Look at the clear chamfer right in the middle.
>>
>>1646038
is the end of your PTFE feed tube chamfered to match the heatbreak chamfer? If not, that's a big problem. Maybe not your only one, but it's going to cause trouble all by itself.
>>
>>1646040
if you did chamfer it, it's not fully seated. Or something else in there is not seated.
>>
>>1646033
>>1646038
>>1646040
>>1646041
And, BTW, thanks for *finally* doing that :-P
>>
>>1646038

It's the spot where the nozzle meets the heatbreak in the heater block, I think. That is to say, I can't imagine what else it would be, since the PTFE doesn't enter the heatbreak. That spot would be completely molten in use.
>>
>>1646044
that's a long nozzle. But yeah, that's at least one problem. A proper setup does NOT show that.
>>
>>1646045
If that is the heatbreak->nozzle transition, maybe you've also got an underpowered heater/poor block->noszzle heat transfer and the heatbreak is causing enough cooling there to jam things up? Shot in the dark, I've not seen that at the nozzle transition before.
>>
>>1646045
>>1646047
Actually, I guess that would mean the nozzle is not long enough ;-)
>>
>>1646045
>that's a long nozzle

It's strangely long, yes. But the stretched filament exaggerates it.

I could try and re-machine the end of the heatbreak and nozzle to reduce the inner chamfers, I guess. But surely that couldn't be a problem, could it? That spot is well into the heater block. Even if a jam did occur there, it would just be melted almost immediately.
>>
>>1646050
>I could try and re-machine the end of the heatbreak and nozzle to reduce the inner chamfers, I guess.
Ideally, you want them to mate perfectly and have no seam there whatsoever. No chamfer. Perfect end-to-end mate, as in, polished in a mated and tight state.
> Even if a jam did occur there, it would just be melted almost immediately.
If everything is set up right, sure, I'd think the same thing. But something is going wrong, and that's at least one place where something ain't right. *shrug*. Do jams go away if you run hotter than 'normal'?
>>
>>1646052
>you want them to mate perfectly and have no seam there whatsoever. No chamfer.

Strictly speaking, I'd be looking at a flare/taper fit, rather than just facing both parts and hoping the bores line up perfectly. Either way, not gonna bother unless someone can come up with some good reasoning as to why that would cause a jam. For now, I'm sticking with the "shitty bore finish in heatbreak combined with underpowered extruder motor" theory.

>Do jams go away if you run hotter than 'normal'?

Nope. That was one of the first things I tried. PLA at 190 or 250, didn't seem to make any difference.
>>
>>1646052
My thinking is if your heatbreak is really cold, the top lip might be cool enough to solidify the filament when the block is 'running behind'. Especially since I don't know how this is bolted together, and the nozzle is obviously not fully mated to the heatbreak, so there's maybe even less heat transfer there than normal.
>>
>>1646054
>Strictly speaking, I'd be looking at a flare/taper fit, rather than just facing both parts and hoping the bores line up perfectly.
Sure. Ideal isn't needed.
>Nope. That was one of the first things I tried. PLA at 190 or 250, didn't seem to make any difference.
Hm.
>>
>>1646047
>maybe you've also got an underpowered heater/poor block->noszzle heat transfer and the heatbreak is causing enough cooling there to jam things up?

Unlikely. With the stupidly small transition zone that the waterblock offers, I can actually get some pretty nutty extrusion rates with very little pressure when feeding by hand, and at reasonable temperatures to boot. Heater's definitely up to snuff, if nothing else.
>>
>>1646057
>With the stupidly small transition zone that the waterblock offers
What I was suggesting was, are you sure the transition zone is still in the heatbreak and not moving down into the nozzle?
>>
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>>1646058

Yeah, I can feed as much filament by hand as I like, as long as I don't repeatedly retract it just so.

Forgot I had a shitty USB microscope, shows the bore imprint a little better. 'Nother pull attempt, it's still there. Strange, though...it's not overly hard to pull this thing out, and I expect a feature that significant to make it VERY difficult to do so. Might not even be that joint, may be just a random fold that develops when I keep slight pressure on the filament as the whole thing cools?
>>
>>1646058
But yeah, really, this line of reasoning is seeming pretty unlikely.
>>
>>1646063
huh, that pull removed a major wad of black crap right at the nozzle opening.
>>
>>1646065
try again... did the problem just go away....?
>>
>>1646067
I hope that delay is a really good sign. Waiting with bated breath.
>>
>>1646065

It's just the lighting playing weird with a bit of an odd bubble at the end. That example is pretty well spotless in person.

I'd be pleased if this turned out to just be a clog, but it's definitely not.

Anyway, think I'll just snoop around for a better heatbreak and hope that works, because fuck me if I have any idea what else it could be at this point. I'd go full autismal and polish the bore myself, but that waterblock took frustratingly long for such a simple part and I'm burnt on screwing with this thing anymore.

Thanks, boys.

Was gonna ask of the one direct from the E3D website sank the tube all the way through or just had a shallow recess at the top. But I see E3D provides technical drawings of their parts. This pleases me.
>>
>>1646075
>Was gonna ask of the one direct from the E3D website sank the tube all the way through or just had a shallow recess at the top. But I see E3D provides technical drawings of their parts. This pleases me.
Yep. Lite goes all the way down, normal one does not. And their standard ones are reasonably cheap.
>>
>>1646076
also, 'damn.'
Well, good luck in any case. Report back eh.
>>
>>1645757
All of the cons means it's inferior to a Prusa i3.
>>
>>1646018
>Are these "titanium alloy" "bore polished" heatbreaks I'm seeing on eBay/Amazon worth shit or snake oil?
I have broken several regular heat breaks on my delta because reasons. Threw in a proper expensive titanium one, hasn't broken so far.
>>
>>1646007
E3D has a 500W high temperature bed that you connect to the line voltage. Requires an SSR but the instructions are on their website. With that bed, the temp limitations come from the thermistor.

I reprinted all the PETG parts with poly-carbonate and replaced them. was a a pain in the ass but I can comfortably bring enclosure temps to 80C without worrying.
>>
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>>1646209
>>1646007

Also I tried what you said and added some abs slurry and for the first time got 5 layers into the print before it failed so there's that. Probably just gonna wait for the PEI sheet and Nano Polymer adhesive to come on monday.
>>
>>1646246
jesus hell
>>
just got 6x 500mm MGN12 rails with C-type carriage blocks, shits tite yo, no play at all, smooth as hell.
>>
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>>1646246
>>
>>1646275
Nice. show build.
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>>1646018

holy shit are you me? i just got the titanium one sold on th3dstudio. I would say they help with heat creep.
>>
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>>1646278
i don't have everything yet, these are the first "structural" parts I've obtained except for some aluminum l-brackets. the ends aren't squarely cut and the wiper isn't completely flush to the rail, but functionally all 6 rails are perfect.
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>>1646337
>>1646278
it's by no means polished or even finished, I still need to draw up the idler blocks, figure out a tensioner for the Z belt, design some motor mounts, and draw the belts in, but it's mostly fleshed out.
>>
Seems like ender 3 runs into heat creep as soon as you use a hero gen 3 or some other stl other than the oem one. Been having serious heat creep issues, tried everything and the only thing that fixed it was going back to the original. I guess I just don't have a strong enough fan to use those overhaul upgrades.
>>
>>1646350

Just like to add that it doesn't not work all the time but that for very long prints the stock one does better, for me at least.
>>
>>1646337
update: i loosened and re-tightened the wipers while on the rail and they now sit flush. Only remaining complaint is that the ends of the rail aren't square.
>>
>>1646246
>ABS slurry
I don't think that would help any, and might actually hurt. I'm not entirely sure what the mechanism is, but AFAIK the reason slightly roughed-up Kapton works is because of the inherent properties of Kapton itself combined with the additional surface area provided by the sanding.

>>1646209
>connect to the line voltage
That, actually, is something I'd like to avoid if possible. Mains voltage is a bit of a daunting prospect for me, I'm not quite comfortable using it yet. I've been looking at

https://www.filastruder.com/products/calidum-heated-bed?_pos=1&_sid=54ab545b3&_ss=r

which is supposedly 12V and 200C max temp, and would be perfect for the setup I currently have, though am open to other options.
>>
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HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH
>>
>>1646574
>van with 3 columns of seats
what the fuck is this
I watched a video by her once, she cut aluminum extrusion on her balcony like 80 floors up with a chop saw on a rickety table
>>
>>1646578
She got picked up by china police
>>
>>1646580

What did she do?
>>
Is the tempered glass plate Creality sell on their site for the Ender any good? I have an aversion to ordering from resellers and I'd like it if everything showed up at the same time.
>>
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Anyone have a sure-fire way to measure the radius of a curve for 3d modeling? I already have the pic on the top, and I'd like the pic on the bottom, but it's too expensive ($280 on amazon). The top pic works nicely, but it's mostly based on eye-balling it and it's only got specific values.
>>
>>1646700
>Anyone have a sure-fire way to measure the radius of a curve for 3d modeling?
How accurately do you need it to be measured?
>>
>>1646700
3d print a measurement devise?
>>
>>1646700
print some fillet guages if it's a 90 degree angle
>>
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Best print so far but I can't print as high as I thought
>>
>>1646729
lmao
>>
>>1646729
Hard discount protip : you should print the rugged side of your lithophan on the light side.
This way, when light is off, you don't know what it is, and when light is on, the magic appears.
>>
>>1646736
is there a setting for this? because I have printed flat lithophanes that only work with the rough side outwards.
>>
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>need to print
>heat cartridge dies
>new cartridge is dead out of box
Fuck you chinks
>>
>>1646820
whats that horizontal rod thing with the alligator clips on it
>>
>>1646831
A soldering iron
>>
>>1646836
for what purpose
>>
>>1646838
disregard this i suck cocks
does it work?
>>
>>1646838
to replace his heating element

anyway i have a problem
im kinda new to this and the surfece of my prints is super rough almost like sandpaper
>>
>>1646844
are you trying to use century eggs as filament? Check that your bed is level to the hotend gantry and if that's not it, check your Z offset. If both of those are correct, calibrate your extruder. If that's not it, check for binding on your Z screw.
>>
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>>1646842
no fan so im getting warping but yes
>>
>>1646857
good shit lad
>>
>>1646857
Beautiful.
>>
>>1646857
lmao nice
>>
>>1646857
Good taste in soldering iron too.
>>
I'm having this issue with the ender 3 where the filament keeps backing out Im guessing and it stops extruding until pull out the filament back a little and then find the hole again from the throat of the hotend and then it extrudes perfectly through the nozzle.

the thing is I have replaced the entire hotend with new parts and it keeps doing it, can it be the extruder itself doing this? the thing is i never had any of these problems until recently and did not change anything.

i might just go and buy a micro swiss hotend, i hear it's designed a lot better as far as throat goes. can it be the filament isn't straight enough? I even replaced new bowden tubes.
>>
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I just started playing with nylon and suddenly this... stringing?
Where do I go from now? Temperature up/down? Slower/faster? Heavier retraction? Something else?
It's easy to google tips for ABS or PLA, but I got no luck for a good advice set for troubleshooting nylon :/
(the model: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2975429)
>>
>>1646891
enclosure
>>
>>1646891
To me, that looks like an oozing/retraction or too high temperature issue, but I've never used nylon.
>>
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Water-cooled turd polisher here.

Couldn't bring myself to spend $15 on a fucking screw with a hole in it. So I tried lapping the one I had, really ghetto like. Stuck a nail in a drill, ground it down until it fit into the bore of the heatbreak, put some polishing compound on (not even the right kind, but it was all I had), went to town on it for like 15 minutes.

I can no longer get it to jam by hand. This is encouraging. This particular print reliably causes the issue about halfway through, so we'll find out in a couple hours whether it worked.
>>
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>>1646914

Fuck, I got baited.

I think it was just the residual wax/binder from the polishing compound filling the grooves and acting as a lubricant when I was testing. It's not as bad, as it doesn't stall completely anymore, but it still jams more than enough to be a problem.
>>
>>1646959
>>1646914
just buy an e3d v6 you nigger. you can have your hands on it in like 2 days.
>>
>>1646781
...
If it's a flat lithophane, just mirror your image before processing it...
If it's a curved one, this website allows you to tweak a lot of parameters : http://3dp.rocks/lithophane/
>>
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>>1644589
(brought over from last thread -- didn't see how close it was)

Just took my 2nd intro course (30 minutes, free from local library/makerspace). Now have access to their printer.

Other than just looking for pre-made STL/OBJ files, what should I do to improve? The didn't mention specificis and at the moment I'm just making what I see around me (tools, fan legs--one of mine broke so useful, etc.). Specifically I'm curious how I go from taking these very rudimentary pieces and going towards original content.

Do I need to start building out polygons and going from there? At this time I've only ever used Tinkercad --very basic I know, so I guess, what's steps should I work on as a post-beginner, but not quite novice??
>>
>>1647025
are you talking about 3d modelling?
if you wanna make useful shit and some art, go with Fusion 360 and just play with it untill you're good (or at least that's what i did and i'm pretty ok after smashing that shit for a year)
if it's art you're interested in i guess blender but i've never succesfully used it and idk much about it
also, tinkercad is fucking based, pic related was made on tinkercad
>>
>>1647025
Blender is good for artistic stuff, you can directly edit the mesh and has good tools to smooth models. Steep learning curve though. This tutorial on making an anvil is bretty good
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yi87Dap_WOc

OpenScad is what I mostly use. It's similar to programming. You can make parametric models so it's good for prototyping . You can write the program to be able to just change a number to modify the model. probably isn't for everyone.
here's an example to deaw a washer:
ID = 8.5;
OD = 16;
thickness=2;
difference(){
cylinder(h=thickness, d=OD);
cylinder(h=thickness, d=ID);
}

If you prefer a drafting perspective there's freecad and fusion360. I haven't used either.
I'd read Autodesk's privacy policy carefully before using fusion 360 because it's spyware.
>>
>>1647025
Check out FreeCAD if you are a OSS fan. Pirate everything else. I personally like Solidworks myself.
>>
>>1647062
>>1647050
>>1647037
Thanks guys, I'll look into all those and lurk around :)
>>
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>>1647088
I can second Fusion 360
>>
>>1647050
dude that's just overly complicated for no good reason
you can do parametric modelling in any proper CAD like F360
yea it's prolly spyware tho
>>
>>1646890
What do you mean by
>filament keeps backing out
Is your Retract length to high and pulls it out completely?
>>
>>1646890
what you posted is not coherent
post pictures instead
>>
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Working on some bit drawers for my router table.
>>
>>1647136
If you care about surface finish, you can make the top the surface it prints on and chamfer the bottom of the holes (or leave it open with a small lip) to smooth it out. Neat idea, though.
>>
>>1647140

I printed it in low quality with junk filament just as a test, the real ones are printing right now with better settings.
>>
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>>1644589
Hi there. I got issues with my SLA laser printer,
print doesnt stick to the platform, i even smeared some resin on the surface flat, and cured under the sun. The vat is 2mm glass and 1-2mm of transparent "form silicon". It doesnt stick to silicon layer it can be easly lifted yet also doesnt stick to platform as i said.
What do? I know it looks like pile of trash but the rest is working nice.
>>
>>1647162

What about cleaning the aluminium plate with alcohol? There has to be some sort of maintenace procedures described in the manual for commercial SLA printers like the photon
>>
>>1647163
I did, pure alu doesnt work at all, now im testing that idea with smooth layer of cured resin on that alu piece.
>>
>>1647162
Did you realy put a laser on a XY-Gantry?
Maybe try cureing the first layer exta long.
>>
Im trying to setup a filament diameter sensor in marlin for my CR-10.
I have sd-card and lcd disabled in the firmware so an analog pin (pin28 A3) is freed up. I set this pin for the FILWIDTH_PIN in marlin.
The filament sensor correctly gives me 1.80 volts for a 1.8mm filament. I have measured the voltage on the ic and A3 pin gets the 1.8V.
But when i M407 in marlin it says "Filament dia (measured mm):2.19". I have checked and the firmware correctly tries to read the analog (A3) pin 28.

Wat do now?
>>
>>1647225
What the fuck?
I defined FILWIDTH_PIN to A4 pin 27 and when i put voltage to A3 it measures correctly.

Fucking chinks..
>>
>>1647234
>>1647225
whatever minkus
>>
I come from /g/, what 2D free CAD software do you guys recommend me?

I have searched a little and i found libreCAD and freeCAD.... Thoughts?

TIA
>>
>>1647252
FreeCAD
also free / open source is OpenSCAD
>>
>>1647162
>form silicon
Silicon or siliconE? Big difference.
Are you sure your layer height is properly adjusted? what about the focus of the laser?
>>
>>1647258
I know how to use OpenSCAD. How can I switch to FreeCAD? Any good guides for retards?
>>
>>1647258
But that's for 3D modeling. I asked for 2D modeling.
>>
>>1647302
You can stick to 2D modeling in both.
In FreeCAD there is even a sketch mode that is purely 2D.
>>
>>1647252
Fusion 360 sketch mode lol
>>
>>1647302
>2D modeling
>make model
>start print
>nothing happens
???
>>
>>1647020
I don’t mean like that. I mean the image isn’t nearly as defined when the flat side is out. I’d take a picture but I’m /mobile/ for the next few days.
>>
>>1647339
>>1647020
I used the same website with white PLA 100% Infill
>>
What kind of a printer should I buy? I've used a monoprice mini 3d v2 but I'm looking for something that could help improve my prints so as to avoid utilizing copious amounts of hot glue to fix my miniatures. I plan on printing shitloads of minis that are about 2 1/2 inches tall, and I would like some advice on what other anons have used. Lets day my budget is in the ball park of about maybe 500$ CDN after tax (12%).
>>
>>1647397
>miniatures
A resin printer is probably the best thing for you.
>>
>>1647339
>>1647341
Okay, I understand.
You then won't be able to have good images with the flat side out.
Because the relief "hides" some of the light and blurs the thinners parts.
I never had this kind of problem on my lithophans but my images were not hi def, so a little blur was not that noticeable.
>>
>>1647163
Ok so i tried resin layer on aluminium platform and worked along with super long curing 3 layers, worked somewhat, it crashed somwhere in half way, but there ois something to work on allready. But silicone and glass propably are stealing too much power of laser, so i need to try to make VAT better with laminating pouches.
>>
>>1647170
I did extra long first layers, yes i just puted laser on brass rods, works fine.
>>
>>1647294
I did focused laser not sure if its really propperly focused. Yea silicone, i found transparent one for making forms.
>>
>>1647397
if your budget is at $500 id suggest just investing a few hundred more and getting an mk3 kit
or a used mk3 or mk2 if you don't wanna go over budget
>>
>>1647397
Monoprice sla printer is about $200 right now o. Amazon . Makes good minis for the price. The built in slicer is the biggest hunk of shit there is, but slic3r sla edition works. There's a link in the instruction pdf when you get the printer.
It's working well with elgoo gray. Get some extra film for the bottom of your resivour, and change the stock one out before you even do your first print.
>>
I just got a 3d printer and a glass bed for it, I'm supposed to remove the tape from the hot bed or just put the glass over it?
>>
>>1647522
what kind of tape is it? if it's kapton or painter's tape, remove it, it's only there for print adhesion and you'll be printing on the glass now, but if it's some kind of transfer adhesive leave it be.
>>
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>>1647547
>what kind of tape is it?
I don't know, here is a picture of the hotbed.
>>
>>1647557
looks like painter's tape, go ahead and take it off, then clip the glass bed on top of the bare aluminum.
>>
>>1647559
ok, thanks.
>>
>>1647522
Dunno, maybe read the instructions? Or are they in Chinese?
>>
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>>1647576
>Or are they in Chinese?
Please don't bully.
>>
>>1647581
It was a trick question. Chinese vendors don't include instructions.
>>
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>>1647581
>he can't read chinese
>>
Help Me Anons. I just ordered three more Prusas with the MMU2S.
>>
>>1647589
Why?
>>
>>1647592
this.... this is completely normal?
>>
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>>1647593
>....
>>
I made a thing. 0.3 layer height because it would take 7 hours otherwise at 100% infil
>>
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what are potential causes for this layer shift along X axis?
>>
>>1647596
weird shaped knuckles but ok
>>
>>1647597
that looks like crappy precision, not shift....
>>
>>1647598
They're a model created by defense distributed and are supposed to be ergonomic or something. It also features a bottle opener, but I don't know how well it will work, a bag holder, 2 spikes, and the bottom can be used to measure stuff.
>>
>>1647597
perhaps lost microsteps? What is your microstep setting? Most steppers can't really accomplish much more than 1/16 in reality.
>>
>>1647602
explain?
>>1647606
ngl I have no idea
>>
>>1647609
>explain?
the whole thing is warped, not just one layer, and it's ghosted to hell and back.
>>
>>1647610
I think I figured it out. X axis grub screws were almost completely loose
>>
>>1647616
thar you go. report back with print success.
>>
>>1647605
Any more details on the multitool anon? Outside of your image I can find another example or file.
>>
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>>1647589
>three MMU units
>three MORE
I can understand two, but what the hell are you doing that requires at least four MMUs?
>>
>>1647676
breeding them, obviously.
>>
>>1647598
>>1647605

Makes sense, you're only supposed to punch with the first 2 knuckles anyway.
>>
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>>1645359
I decided to take a break from attempting to invent a new instrument and ended up making a phone holder for a car cup holder instead. I haven't seen one on thingiverse so I made one myself. This allows you to charge your phone or you can pivot your phone.
>>
>>1647644
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1298507
>>
>>1647748
which 3d modeler software do you use?
>>
>>1647765
Fusion360. It is free.
>>
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FreeCAD!

The rusty, 45-ton Soviet WWII tank of CAD software. And just as reliable. But man, when the gun actually fires... It's not all bad...
>>
Hey friends, I want to print this belt https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3270948 but I'm having trouble figuring out the material to print it in. Do I use PLA+ or PETG?
My concern with PETG is that it likes to bend more than PLA and that I'll be wearing it when the hooks bend themselves out and my pants fall down. I could print it in PLA+ which seems to be just as strong if not stronger but im worried in the phoenix heat(120f +) the hooks will bend themselves anyways. Anyone with experience have ideas for which is the better filament for this job?
>>
>>1648086
just use PLA
that thing has no need for bending and benefits from rigidity
>>
I really want to start prototyping things I make in CAD as soon as possible and I want to get a 3D printer. Should I save a bit for the Prusa Mk3s or should I just get an Ender 3 as my first printer?
>>
>>1648141
If you have the money, the Prusa is a no-brainer. If you don't, then that sort of makes up your mind for you.
>>
>>1648141
honestly, if you can, get the Prusa
Having dealt with a 100€ chink printer and then switched to a MK2 i can totally say that it was worth the price, there are still certain things to worry about, at this price range 3d printers still aren't quite just press the button and print but not having to worry about dumbass shit like the hotend constantly jamming for like at least three different reasons makes a world of difference
>>
>>1648148
>>1648143
Thank you. I think I will just save a bit longer.
>>
>>1648141
I heard great things about the Prusa Mk3s. A lot of printers are just cheap clones of the Prusa or crappy knockoffs. Auto leveling is a great feature and it just screams quality.
>>
>>1648141
Let's pretend, that Prusas, all of them, out of the box, have this disgusting problem:

https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/issues/602

That Prusa doesn't acknowledge that exists, and shuts down, and Prusa fanboys defend that shit like it never happened.

The Prusa is a piece of trash, that is not worth even $100.

1. It's made of PETG, because it cannot print ABS, like the Ender 3 can.
2. It's made of PETG, so it melts in enclosed build chambers, the Ender 3 is made of metal (like the X carriage plane, that is very important), and ABS parts, which don't melt under 100ºC
3. For cheapness, the Prusa comes with a no-name-brand PSU that doesn't even has a fan to cool it down, so it doesn't work in enclosures, the Ender 3, has no problem with that, the Ender 3 Pro, comes with a Mean Well power supply that is half the volume of the Prusa's, and has a fan.
4. Also, for cheapness and less printing time, they don't put a fan on the motherboard, like the Ender 3 has, that means the printer skips steps like an Anet A8 on enclosed build chambers.
5. The smooth rods on the Prusa's are of low quality, and it doesn't has quality ball-bearings, like it should, the Ender 3 comes with good quality V-slot frames, again, it costs 1/5 of the price of the Prusa.
6. Fucking zip ties holding the Y rods, how cheap they can go?
7. It comes 100% unassembled, so, they can blame you that you did something wrong.
8. For $1000, it comes with a 8bit board, and the CPU only has 8KB of RAM (the Ender 3, at least has 16KB's), and is also slower (16 MIPS, vs 20MIPS on the Ender), how cheap they can go? Not even a graphical LCD!
9. The Ender 3's frame is sturdier than the cheap Prusa's frame. People have been replacing Prusa's famous frame, since ever: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2808408
10. The Prusa's dont' have an independent Z motor controller, so they can't level the two Z motors, the Ender 3 has a cantilever design that doesn't need this.
>>
>>1648141
>>1648161
Again, this is comparing a $177 printer, with shipping, with one that costs more than 5x more...

If you spend $1000 on a Chinese printer, you'll get way better machine that a crappy Prusa.

For less than $1000, you can get a real machine, like this:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2254103/remixes

That doesn't have f**** bed rocking back and forth.

Sticking with the Ender 3, for less than $1000, you can build an Ender 3 with Bondtech extruder, all metal Micro Swiss, Duet 3D, BL Touch, etc. and it runs circles arround the Prusa, and still costs less than half.
>>
>>1648165

New thread
>>
>>1648161
>https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/issues/602
copypasta returns! I'm not going to bother with the copypasta reply this time, but most of that is bunk or incorrect.



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