[a / b / c / d / e / f / g / gif / h / hr / k / m / o / p / r / s / t / u / v / vg / vr / w / wg] [i / ic] [r9k / s4s / vip / qa] [cm / hm / lgbt / y] [3 / aco / adv / an / asp / bant / biz / cgl / ck / co / diy / fa / fit / gd / hc / his / int / jp / lit / mlp / mu / n / news / out / po / pol / qst / sci / soc / sp / tg / toy / trv / tv / vp / wsg / wsr / x] [Settings] [Search] [Home]
Board
Settings Home
/diy/ - Do It Yourself

Name
Options
Comment
Verification
4chan Pass users can bypass this verification. [Learn More] [Login]
File
  • Please read the Rules and FAQ before posting.
  • There are 90 posters in this thread.

05/04/17New trial board added: /bant/ - International/Random
10/04/16New board for 4chan Pass users: /vip/ - Very Important Posts
06/20/16New 4chan Banner Contest with a chance to win a 4chan Pass! See the contest page for details.
[Hide] [Show All]



old one maxed >>1631854

I impulse bought a press today for $20. What is the best way to clean up the rust, and what should I lubricate the gears with?
>>
>>1641593
>what should I lubricate the gears with?
Probably a grease
>What is the best way to clean up the rust,
Sandblast or cup wire brush on angle grinder.
>>
File: IMG_E5095-_1200.jpg (271 KB, 1200x1600)
271 KB
271 KB JPG
>>1641593
This uses a spring, and so it seems like it would be good for setting up repetative tasks - like a button press or something. You can adjust the height of the recoil spring / ram. Missing a ram obviously.

What is a specific application that this would be better for than a regular HF style arbor press? I Read things like "set depth" - but with arbor, you have a fixed depth at the bottom too.

I picked it up because it seemed it would be much easier to rig up a pressure gauge the the other style.
>>
>>1641598
like a silicone grease?I think I have some White Lightning I used on my bike once.
>>
>>1641598
thanks. wire brush + angle grinder wont tear up the paint?
>>
>>1641600
It's not like the press is some heavy duty high rpm machine. Any kind of grease will likely due, donno if I'd use silicone. I'd probably use white lithium based before that, the spray greases tends to dry up. Axel grease would be a good choice I think.
>>
>>1641604
Yes, but why do you want to remove the rust if you're not going to paint it to prevent it from rusting again? If you're talking about non painted areas then sandpaper for heavy rust areas and scotchbrite pads for less bad areas. Hit it with WD40 as well.
>>
>>1641593

angle grinder wire wheel for rust, either run gears clean and dry, with dry graphite, or a light oil. for the bearings use wheel bearing grease. not much or theyll just overheat
>>
I have to draw up something that's going to be sent off to be sandblasted into rock. It's a bunch of names. My concern is that the character size for each name is only going to be 10-15mm, with the stroke being 2mm wide, which I feel (with no basis whatsoever) is going to be too small. Has anyone done anything like this before and could shed some light? I'd ask the guy but he's not answering the phone and he's not tech savvy so he won't get an email.
>>
>>1641651
>to be sandblasted into rock.
What? Why not have it laser etched or grinded into it? Isn't that what they do for tombstones?
>>
>>1641730
>tombstones
are sandblasted
>>
>>1641651
he's the only one who can tell you, because he'll know his equipment. Make him guarantee it - basically say "if this is too small, and breaks, will you redo it with a wider design?"
>>
File: IMG_5096-_1200.jpg (210 KB, 1600x1200)
210 KB
210 KB JPG
>>1641626
Thanks. End goal is to have this used for manufacturing textiles, so I'd like something less staining than axel grease. I'll try the white lithium

>>1641628
I'm going to move this inside as part of a doll fabrication process>>1641629
, and would like it as clean as possible. I'm not super worried about rust, as I live in the desert. I would strip and paint it if I had time, but god knows when that will happen.

>>1641629
Any tips on getting the grease off? I Was just going to break everything down, use simple green, lube and go. Should I lightly oil unpainted / exposed metal like the screws?

More random questions:
-It seems unusual to have the ram NOT be affixed to the gears. Do have to craft my own ram?

-Do the two poles going up and down have a specific name?

-Does the faceplate that I will affix the ram to have a specific name?

-Does this type of press have a specific name? Like a "Dual [pole] spring return Manual Press" or something

Thanks!
>>
About 12 years ago I bought a 3 million candlepower lamp.
Used to go for walks in the country at night and that fucker could light up an entire field, think it was halogen.
Anyway, they were all the rage back then, 1 million, 3 million, 5 million candle power lamps.

Anyway, now I've moved house and I've found a massive badger sett nearby that I wanna check out.

I've gone looking for a similar lamp and I can't find shit.
Everything now is LED and in lumens.

What would give me a roughly equivalent brightness?
>>
>>1641986
>>
File: inquisitive.png (6 KB, 349x382)
6 KB
6 KB PNG
I have a 2x4 piece I used to make a frame. The bottom edge (thin side) is like 1-2mm too big. I screwed up drilling the holes and its a bit of a flustercuck.

Can I manually sand down ~1-2mm on the thin edge just using sandpaper in a reasonable amount of time? Or is that not too feasible? Really want to avoid redoing this part for now.
>>
>>1642176
#36 grit sandpaper. bout 3min. per foot. Don't let paper clog. Use a stiff brush to clean paper, and use fresh paper as needed. They even make an (eraser like) product for cleaning sand paper. Wood rasp would be faster.
>>
>>1641980
>Any tips on getting the grease off?
Acetone and a brass brush will take off old dried grease, but it will also take the paint off. It wont scratch or mar the steel however. If you simple green or acetone parts and take off the old oil it will rust in short order. Simple green is water based. You can strip grease or paint with simple green and have light rust forming in only a few hours. Exposed steel is going to rust eventually. Doesnt matter if its indoor or outdoor or where you live.

I would strip the old paint/oil/rust off of any parts that are going to come into contact with your work and repaint or powder coat.
>>
File: 1561670997179.jpg (354 KB, 1268x668)
354 KB
354 KB JPG
No dedicated leather/shoe thread, I'll seek help here.

My new shoes' soles started breaking away from the bottom and I need to know what type of glue could be used to keep them securely in place (clearly regular wood/super glue wouldn't cut it).

Yes I know they're cheaply made in China, yes I know I'm being cheap and they cost me next to nothing, but this is /diy/ and I won't throw it away if I can cheaply fix it myself. Without getting into expensive specialist materials, what hobbyist/industrial glue can I use to fix these fairly well?
>>
>>1642254
squirt some silicone rubber adhesive in there
lift up the insole (from the inside) and put a couple of sheet-metal screws through the shoe into the heel
select screws that go ~half-way through the heel
put the insole back down over the screw heads
wait twenty-four hours for the silicone to cure
>>
>>1642254
https://youtu.be/H9Km5Aswe5A
>>
>>1642254
It's called Shoe Goo and it's for this exact purpose.
>>
File: IMG_20190706_122237.jpg (404 KB, 1440x2350)
404 KB
404 KB JPG
Any electrician here? Internet is down because the cats were fighting under the house. The red cable is loose and can be pulled right out of the terminal.
How do I fix this? I also don't think I can turn the power off to the cables as well.
>>
>>1642732
>The red cable is loose and can be pulled right out of the terminal.
If by terminal, you mean the part with the orange disk on the end - it's just a crimp connector.
It joins the two wire inserted into it.
Pull the red out and pull the other wire out (or cut it close to the plastic)
Strip the ends and twist them together.
Put tape on them for insulation or if you have a small wire nut (blue or orange) use it instead.
>>1642732
>I also don't think I can turn the power off to the cables as well
It depends on if this wire is on your side of the line connection box or on the utility side.
In the service box for you phone line there should be a jack and plug.
If this wire is on your side, disconnecting the plug removes power to the wire.
If it's on the phone company side, the voltage isn't that high.
Just use rubber gloves from the kitchen.

NOTE: If it is on the phone company side you really should have them do a permanent repair on it.
>>
>>1642732
It's 48v just don't lick it
Solder the wires together after you twist them. Then tape over the solder. Just twisting wires together forms oxides and makes noisy connections which will kill your dsl.

Or buy a 10 pack of UY2 scotchlocks or equivalent from the hardware store
>>
>>1642764
He's in the 3rd world. He doesn't have a nid or a lightning protector. The black wire looks like outside plant wire to me.
>>
>>1642229
I know that the steel will eventually rust, it's just a question of time management. This is a prototype, and if it doesn't work out, I'm not going to spend time on it.

What if I clean it off, brush on 3 in 1 oil lightly on all metal surfaces, then wipe that down with a cloth. That should hold it for a few months or whatever? Humidity is 14% out here.

regarding painting - what brand should I use? if she likes it, and it becomes part of the fabrication line, I'll want to paint it teal or orange or something.
>>
File: sole.jpg (95 KB, 513x533)
95 KB
95 KB JPG
>>1642296
The soles aren't a single piece of rubber - it has large square-like holes so there's less surface area for nails to go into, which is why I'd put more faith into a very strong general glue.
>silicone rubber adhesive
Don't know that I've seen one before, what is their general use?

>>1642313
>>1642341
I'm not an American so I likely don't have this available to me; what would be this type of glue's designation/description other than the name brand?
Also from the video it looks like just a leather maintaining product, not an actual glue that can hold the sole during use.
>>
>>1642732
It's low voltage, turning the power off is largely irrelevant. Just don't be retarded, drunk, or soaking wet when you work on it.
Splice that shit back together and you'll be back in business.
Those splices are 3m scotchlok idc butt connectors btw. You can use normal wire splices to repair it tho. I wouldn't recommend soldering them together- splicing will be easier and involve less thinking.
>>
>>1642820
Shoe Goo is an "industrial strength" (according to the marketers) waterproof polyurethane glue. Contact cement would also work.
Whatever you use, don't use "gorilla glue". That shit foams up like mad and expands all over the damn place.
>>
>>1642254
Rubber cement. Also, where in the world are you? Providing your general location will help us to help you.
>>
>>1642820
>>silicone rubber adhesive
>Don't know that I've seen one before, what is their general use?
Most general purpose silicone products are listed as sealant/adhesive
>>
>>1642341
JB Weld > Shoe Goo
>>
I bought a window air conditioner. There is a railing at the bottom of the A/C unit that looks like its supposed to 'fit' in some sort of channel or something in the window. However none of my windows have an appropriate channel. They all have multiple channels at weird levels and thin plastic/vinyl dividers (I'm guessing these are water channels for when it rains). Hell, the outside of the windows sill is taller than the inside.

I've spent hours looking online for instructions but outside of some vague 'just throw some plywood down' I have no fucking idea how this shit is supposed to fit and its extremely frustrating. The installation guide has piss poor images and I can't picture how its supposed to align to any rails and 'lean back' and also have the extendable insulation wings fit

Why is this so annoying? Is there a guide or something for retards with pictures of real windows and not some joke of a drawing that is completely unhelpful?
>>
>>1643221

Every window sill is different, chances are the manufacturer can't account for all 5 million different types of window sill in the installation instructions. This is one of those situations where you're going to have to use your brain and be creative to come up with your own solution to the problem.

Based on your post that's probably not the answer you wanted to hear, but, unfortunately for you it is the correct answer.
>>
Why even carry a toolbox when you can have the new Toler Multitool?

>just pledge $120 on Kickstarter and you might get one some time before Xmas 2020
>>
>>1643355
The Youtube ad started with random guys testing a wrench. At first you think he could be in a home improvement store, but it was lacking Orange and Blue so none of the usual big box suspects. After another 15 seconds, I believe he was in a vape shop asking the vape bros to test his wrench. Humans with estrogen levels so high are not credible test subjects for a new wrench.

And then about 30 seconds in, I see him detach a part and flip a knife out of the goddamn thing, at which point I clicked “Skip Ad” as I should have done 26 seconds prior, or at the very least 10 seconds earlier when the soiboi wearing a vape shop shirt commented on how nice the pocket clip was.
>>
>>1643359
Although you can see why the first 5 seconds caught my attention because I’m always interested to see people attempt to reinvent the wheel because maybe there is a chance they will get it right this time.
>>
>>1643359
This man surely knows a good wrench, amirite?
>>
>>1643361
This man is obviously a hardened crab fisherman based on his yellow raincoat so I imagine he will demand nothing but the finest tools, and he does not seem disappointed.

>Oh cool! Can I buy one of those today?
No.
>>
File: MPCNC.jpg (64 KB, 628x472)
64 KB
64 KB JPG
Anyone made an MPCNC?

I was wondering how large and tall a thing it can reasonably make? I've heard it can do small table top?
>>
File: corner-01.jpg (78 KB, 1200x1600)
78 KB
78 KB JPG
I noticed ants wandering around this corner. I applied some lemon juice to scare them away, cleaned the dirt and now I'm unsure about how to proceed.
Outside there's a small garden. I don't know which is the material the ants tunneled through, but I would like to seal and restore it to make it look like before.
What are your suggestions, /diy/?
>>
File: corner-02.jpg (99 KB, 1600x1200)
99 KB
99 KB JPG
>>1643373
Second picture, close up. These fellas really worked hard to get into here.
>>
File: panel_3_5.jpg (79 KB, 1024x683)
79 KB
79 KB JPG
I want to get a cheap tig welder ( used or chinese stuff ).
I only want to fuck around with some small projects and eventually try welding a few cromo bike frames.

can you guys help me figure out what features I should look out for or what specifications I can get away with ?
>>
>>1643221
The rail on the bottom simply rests against the inner window sill. Notice that the vinyl "wings" have steel channels around them. The wings slide sideways and go into the channels that the window sash slides in, this is where you get your vertical stability. Now the wings are not going to be the exact size for the sash channel so the AC unit will lean outward, you can put some wood strips in there to take up some space and make the AC unit sit more upright.
>>
>>1643362
I would not even buy weed from dude in the blue shirt let alone tools.
>>
>>1643482
You can "get away with" connecting a TIG torch to a stick welder and an argon bottle, but scratch start with hard arc breaks is a pain to use and learn on. A basic TIG kit should have a foot pedal and lift arc start. DC only is fine for most things (aluminum notably needs AC with a normal TIG setup), and pulse isn't necessary either (especially if you have a foot pedal, which you can use to manually pulse the current). High frequency start is very nice to have, and if you're willing to spring for any bells or whistles, it should be that. The smallest cheapo TIG welder you can find should have plenty of duty cycle for bike frames, but 120A or so will let you muddle through on thick steel if needed. A 60% duty cycle at 150A should be plenty for most things you'd use TIG for. That said, as with other welders, it's generally preferable to get something a bit bigger than what you expect to need so there is spare capacity if needed. and you're not running it as hard.
>>
>>1643548

thanks alot !
>>
i want to make a sort lamp from an old and broken laptop display. i took the light "source" but it isn't a led strip but some sort of long bulb. i don't know how to use it and what to search to get information
>>
>>1643553
Are there any numbers on the bulb? Post a pic you kneegrow.
>>
File: IMG_20190707_223440.jpg (353 KB, 2640x795)
353 KB
353 KB JPG
>>1643568
3550B-0145A-82
i couldn't find anything on google
>>
File: IMG_20190707_223035.jpg (502 KB, 4158x529)
502 KB
502 KB JPG
>>1643584
thats the whole thing
>>
>>1641593
How do i hang a skateboard on the wall wheels out?

Hardmode: Without using any sort of hook hook
>>
>>1643584
https://datasheetspdf.com/pdf-down/L/P/1/LP154W01-TLAG-LG.pdf
get better at google
>>
>>1643586
Looks like an EL (Electroluminescent) lamp.
Need the driver circuit to make that work.
>>
>>1643605
hit send too soon.. could also be CCFL
>>
>>1643606
CCFL.
You can get drivers from usual suspects, by googling "CCFL driver (length) mm"
>>
>>1643632
Or "CCFl inverter screen size"
>>
newb here. trying to buy some basic toolkits. first, i need to change my car's power steering pipe, so i need some wrench and socket ones. but i thought, since i plan to work on some kind of project car (old international one, to be specific) why not buy a beginner's kit?

options:
https://www.harborfreight.com/225-pc-mechanics-tool-kit-62664.html
https://www.autozone.com/ratchets-sockets-and-wrenches/tool-set/duralast-180-pcs-master-service-set/52378_0_0
(autozone has spend 100 get 20 off, and i need to buy parts from autozone anyway, so why not?)
i do have basic tools like plier, nipper, monkey spanner. or should i just try to assemble my kit by piece by piece?
>>
Why is it that with wire guage, the bigger the number is the smaller the wire? Is the number that is given as the size a divisor of some sort?
>>
>>1643667
how they make copper wire is they give two jews a penny.
the penny gets stretched out into wire.
the gauge number is how many times it was stretched out, so the more stretched == higher number gauge == thinner wire.
>>
>>1643667
Unironically this >>1643708 but with drawing dies instead of jews. Same consideration applies to sheet metal gauges and passes through rolls. At least in the old days when gauges were standardized.
>>
Halp.

servicing an electric wheelchair for disabled friend.

replacing tube tires. When I pulled the wheels off the axle, they were dry and had some surface rust.

are they supposed to be dry and not lubricated where the wheel installs?
>>
>>1643664

if your PS pump has hard lines, you'll need flare-nut wrenches. if they're just rubber lines you'll need some grippers, and some decent ones, to wrest the rubber hose off of the tip/petcock/nipple etc
>>
So come to find out my gutters are level, causing water to pool up in them. Any ideas on how to fix that? Do I just have to drop one side by an inch or so?
>>
>>1643853
basically, yes
>>
I want to mount a trellis on a wall of my house and grow some kind of vine on it to shade it from the summer sun. The wall is painted wood clapboard. How far from the wall should I mount it so that the plant doesn't cause mold or rot issues?
>>
>>1643887
Most climbing plants will also climb clapboard. So you will have to keep it trimmed.
I'd say 6in or so since that gives room to get behind it.
>>
>>1643806
Are there bearings? Sounds like it wouldn’t hurt to put a few drops of 3-in-1 or white lithium grease on there.

>>1643664
If you already have some stuff, get a decent socket set. Gearwrench had some nice options if you catch them on sale, Amazon has good pricing. The Duralast, Pitt Pro with black and green handles, or Husky from Home Depot are decent options as well. Then get yourself a combination wrench set.

And like anon said, you will probably want flare nut wrenches for the power steering pump so you don’t round off any fittings. Hoses like that use brass or other soft metals to create a better seal, but this also makes it easy to fuck them up and round them off when using a regular open ended wrench. Pic related is $19 at Home Depot.
>>
>>1643667
They do this with fish hooks and some other random shit too. Or you get l#3-#2-#1 and then it goes to 1/0, 2/0, 3/0 as you get larger.

>>1643598
Install a vacuum pump in the next room, run hoses through the wall, and mount a big suction cup to the wall where you want to hang it.
>>
>>1643584
>>1643586
That's a CCFL (cold cathode fluorescent lamp). You'll need a driver for it: The driver basically ramps a low voltage input up to the high voltage required to light the bulb.
>>
>>1643598
Do you have steel trucks? Mount some strong magnets on the wall.
>>
>>1643373
>>1643374
Any ideas?
>>
>>1644031
Ant spray.
>>
>>1644105
They are gone. I want to seal it.
>>
>>1644112
>I want to seal it.
clear RTV
>>
>>1644119
Thanks a lot!
>>
In a new house, has a microwave over the stove. Microwave has the exhaust fan for the electric stove. It only blows air out the top though, it doesn't suck. I can feel a little bit of movement but nothing serious. Don't think the motor is wired backwards otherwise it'd be blowing air down, right? And if it was mounted upside down, it'd suck but not blow, right? Any ideas? Don't have the manual for it (is a whirlpool though)
>>
>>1644217
>whirlpool
Use google you dumbo
https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Microwave/77-5--/Whirlpool-Microwave-exhaust-fan-not-working
>>
>>1643962
Interesting

>>1643977
I'll test it out and probably go with this.
>>
>>1644217
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GKNz_tKizYk
>>
I need to pour around 15 80 pound bags of concrete for a footing. Will I be able to mix and pour all of them myself using the 5 gallon bucket and drill method? How quickly do I need to mix and pour the entire thing?
>>
I need to supply power to 6 stepper motors, hobbyist tier robotics stuff, and would also like it to power LEDs, servos, just whatever the fuck I hook up to it, but I want my own self-contained PSU.

My 3D printer has something VERY similar to what I would like, kinda, it powers fans, a screen, a bunch of motors and heating elements/sensors, that's basically what I want, but where do I go for that kind of thing!

For this project, six fairly beefy steppers and a bunch of LEDs are the bare minimum though
>>
I want to get into pickling vegetables, I have a bunch of old mason jars for jamming that have the screw on lids, can I use these for pickling? Most examples I see online use clip top lids with rubber gaskets but I cant seem to find any place that just sells the lids/gaskets. I have tons of jars so I really don't want to buy more jars just to get the lids.
>>
>>1643887
far enough that your body can physically walk around it so you can comfortably trim that mother fucker after you forget to do maintenance on it after a year or two. Ideally you want a few feet of clearance, I know it's super tempting to just let plants climb everything but they will fuck up your shit within 5-10 years of you not paying attention to them. Doesnt matter if its a fence or a wall.
>>
>>1644436
>I have a bunch of old mason jars for jamming that have the screw on lids, can I use these for pickling?
Yes. They're fine.
>>
File: IMG_20190709_094045.jpg (1.84 MB, 2304x4608)
1.84 MB
1.84 MB JPG
First time welding, who can tell me what I'm doing wrong? Stick welding, 6011, 75amps, 1in angle stock steel.
Pic related are my first practice beads
>>
File: IMG_20190705_160715.jpg (1.14 MB, 3264x1836)
1.14 MB
1.14 MB JPG
>>1642732
Snip and solder, my dog cut my Internet last week. Was able to get it up and running in under 30 mins.
>>
>>1644339
>Will I be able to mix and pour all of them myself using the 5 gallon bucket and drill method?
No.
>>
What's to stop me from buying 10 dollars in candles and a $20 canvas drop-cloth from lowes and making this for my-self?
https://www.amazon.com/1844-Helko-Werk-Germany-Bedroll/dp/B07DPSDT1K/
>>
File: 81vQ20Pe40L._SL1500_.jpg (148 KB, 1500x928)
148 KB
148 KB JPG
>>1644684
And before I get shit for it, I don't mean regular candle wax, I mean beeswax.
>>
>>1644339
Get about 30 buckets, space them out around your pour site. Mix em all before pourin any of em.
>>1644425
https://lmgtfy.com/?q=custom+PSU
>>1644684
>What's to stop me
Absolutely nothing (except maybe sloth), but you can get beeswax pellets for cheaper than you can get beeswax candles.
>>
>>1643548
>A 60% duty cycle at 150A should be plenty for most things you'd use TIG for.
i got my first welding start end of last year, decided to fab myself a new exhaust (necessity not ricing). only does 35% at 160A but i never hit the limiter. maybe that says more about me though!
all i will say is don't blow your whole budget on a machine and forget you have to pay for bottle hire, gas, consumables etc.
i didn't get a foot pedal and it took me a whole 3 seconds to realise how beneficial it would have been.
>>
File: gnaglnal.jpg (12 KB, 188x196)
12 KB
12 KB JPG
Yes hello I need help please.
After dropping a mechanical pencil (like pic related), the small tube that holds the end of the lead at the tip has bent -- after bending it back I discovered that the diameter has been slightly reduced at the end so that the pencil lead no longer travels through it smoothly. It gets stuck and breaks off.

How can I fix this? My only idea is hammering a sewing needle or equivalent through it, but that's tedious and error-prone, the needles are too long and too flexible to carry the energy through.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.
>>
>>1644761
Assuming you're using .5mm leads, obtain .5mm drill rod, harden approximately a 2cm length, and use that to round out the hole. For .7mm lead, use .7mm drill rod.
>>
>>1644771
Thanks very much for the suggestion. I don't think I have drill bits that small around -- buying them would probably be more expensive than a replacement for the tip, right? Assuming they're even available.
I'll try to obtain one or the other.

Right now, I'll try heating the tip and cooling a needle, maybe the small expansion is enough.
>>
please send help, how do you make weeds and tallgrass stop growing from a flower bed? do I need to invest in bulk round up and spray that every week and eventually get cancer?
>>
>>1644700
https://lmgtfy.com/?q=custom+PSU

Lots of great results if I'm looking for custom coloured PSU cables, as ever video game ricers ruin everything good.
>>
File: IMG_20190706_201640_01.jpg (2.07 MB, 4032x1960)
2.07 MB
2.07 MB JPG
My basement looked like this as of a few days ago.
It's down to ~8 inches.
What's the easiest way to make sure I don't fuckin electrocute my ass? Like to check if the water has current running through it. The breaker box is on the far wall of the basement, because of course it is.
I need to get a trash pump down there to get the rest of the water out.
>Inb4 australia
I don't have power to my pc because of the flooding so I'm phoneposting.
>>
>>1644846
No idea, but whatever you do, do not touch that fucking water. I have seen way too many electrical safety videos of people getting vaporized in that exact same basement
>>
>>1644854
Yeah I'm keeping a safe distance lol. It was 6 feet deep. Restoration company said it was probably about 13k gallons.
House is old so the basement is fieldstone and dirt. It's draining slowly but I'm wary of having a short cause a fire.
Might just have to call an electrician, fire dept, whatever.
>>
>>1644846

I'm hesitant to say anything because there's a few caveats that could possibly (incredibly unlikely, but possibly) wreck your shit. However, the basic answer is "you won't". Most or all of the current going through the water is just going to be going straight back into the box that surrounds the exposed terminals in it. The only potential risk would be you somehow getting yourself between a live connection and a much more favorable path to ground than the water. This would be fairly difficult to do, as long as you're not poking around under the water for an outlet using a fork.

And this is assuming the whole thing is completely flooded to the top like in the pic. Can't imagine any real risk if it's only 8".
>>
File: IMG_20190706_105743[1].jpg (3.58 MB, 4032x3024)
3.58 MB
3.58 MB JPG
>>1641593
how fucked is my box
>>
>>1644861
Cool cool.
The box is like 6 feet up the wall so it's clear of the water now. Other folks I've asked have said it should be aight so I'm gonna see what's up.
>>
>>1644869
It's a box. The only thing at all strange is the white wire going into the 30 amp breaker on the left but i wouldn't instruct you to change it.

If you dont even know, then put the cover back on
>>
Can you recommend me good heating/cooling calculators, that use metric and take in consideration shitty insulation
>>
>>1644869
Slav here. Would pass local certification.
Some lines have phase/neutral swapped, but it is OK
>>
>>1644761
replace pencil. no way you are gonna get that unbent to the precision you need.
>>
>>1644684
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aLG-SJWb73g
>>
>>1645081
You're right, but I don't need it to be precise: it's not a requirement to fit exactly, I just need it to widen enough. If it's slightly too wide afterwards, that's no issue.
>>
>>1644945
>>1645077

Thank you, could you circle where the stupid shit is? If I have to take it apart and fix it I will. Florida electrician gave it a glance and said ok. Bought new home, former residents did everything themselves so having someone back check it is nice.
>>
>>1644615
Hold a tighter, more consistent arc. You didn't give polarity or electrode size. You should be using DC positive if you have it, but AC would work. 75A is a bit hot for 3/32" 6011 and a bit cold for 1/8" 6011. Try 60 or 90 depending on what size you have, and adjust from there. 6011 is usually done with a stepping motion, where you pause to burn it in, then advance about the nominal width of the rod, then repeat. It should look a bit like a row of overlapping dimes, though that takes practice. But 6011 welds kind of rough at the best of times. 6013 would be better to start with.
>>
>>1644754
Exhaust is still light duty as far as welding goes. I've TIG welded an inch+ of fill on inch+ thick steel, maybe eight feet long. Something like that takes a lot of heat over a long time.
>>
>>1644834
1. Kill everything in the area. Roundup, burning, covering with a black tarp for a while, whatever.
2. Plant flowers. Put a thick later of mulch around them.
3. Apply Preen. If there aren't any food plants around, you can use the six-month heavy duty stuff. This prevents most weed seeds from germinating.
4. Monitor for any weeds that do show up, and prevent them from establishing themselves.
5. Re-apply mulch and Preen each year.
>>
>>1645136
This saved my ass. Took a closer look and realized I was using 3/32. Switched to 1/8 at 90A and am now producing beads that at least look like beads. Machine is the Lincoln Electric AC-225, polarity is ac, btw
>>
File: 1562706763255.jpg (3.93 MB, 4032x3024)
3.93 MB
3.93 MB JPG
>>1645134
Since I'm Slav, I don't really know how American breaker boxes work. With question marks - I don't really know.
It doesn't look too bad, I guess previous owners just didn't have right colored cable or something.
If everything works - don't touch it, it won't cause fire or anything. Just use live wire tester (screwdriver thing with neon bulb, or contactless one) if you're going to replace sockets or something, just to be sure which wire is really live. Also you may put red heat shrink over cable, so next electrician don't get confused.
>>
Explain me how aerosols work.
>be me
>have silicone spray
>need liquid only, not spray
>spray in bottle
>let bottle heat up before closing
>open
>everything in lube

Does propane or whatever shit they use mix with silicone oil like CO2 gas in coca-cola?
>>
File: 022150005 (3).png (550 KB, 660x800)
550 KB
550 KB PNG
I think I fucked up. I went out by our raised fish pond ( 4x4 2" ), and there roaches fucking everywhere. I got the spray, and hit the nearby walls, and around the base of the raised pond. I don't think I got any IN the pond, but after I went in I realized that even a drop can probably kill the fish.

Did I totally fuck up? If I did, how soon till fish die. is it like... basically instant? an hour? 2 days?
>>
>>1645522
The active ingredients are poisonous to fish. If the dimensions you gave indicate 32 cubic feet of water, it would take more than a drop to kill the fish (toxicity depends on species, but that's below the most vulnerable tested), but not a whole lot more than that. The acute toxicity info I found gave LD50 within a day or two. They'd probably look distressed before dying with a marginal dose, though a high dose would knock them out fast.
>>
Is this a virus? Keeps popping up while I'm on fb. It's vague is why I ask. Thanks
>>
>>1645816

I think you are right. Facebook would give it a name wouldn't they?
>>
>>1645821
that's what I was thinking. Plus it's randomly and often. Might not hit me at all for an hour then suddenly pop up several times within a minute.
>>
>>1645816
its an ad trying to give you malware. /g/sqt would be a better place to ask
>>
>>1645876
Could be malware trying to give him more malware. One would think Facebook would vet their ads just a little bit.
>>
>>1645816
>>1645821
>>1645839
>>1645876
>>1645914
>implying Facebook itself isn't malware
>>
>>1645139
So if its a pre-existing bed I either have to kill everything or take small trees out and then kill everything?
>>
>>1645925
Should have mentioned, if they do show up, do you suggest just tearing them out or applying preen again? You say to apply mulch and preen every year but it seems the mulch I get might me shitty. I’m getting it from a source where there is a mountain of it, and it discolors pretty fast. Do you recommend getting mulch in bags or find another bulk mulch place?
>>
>>1645876
Thanks! And thanks to all who replied
>>
File: PUMASUSPENSION.png (14 KB, 594x459)
14 KB
14 KB PNG
What stores or sites do you guys recommend for buying bearings, particularly larger ones around 2 inches ID? Cheaper the better, but from what I have found they don't come cheap in the first place.
>>
I have an led lamp that has a nice bright warm light. Today the power went out and now my light went from warm to blue cold light. Why would it do this? When I turn on the light is bright and warm but a second later it is a darker blue light. Can this be fixed?
>>
File: image.jpg (1.79 MB, 1125x1504)
1.79 MB
1.79 MB JPG
>>1644627
>>1644700

Thanks for the advice. Ended up being fifteen 60 pound bags, definitely not fun for my back. I know it could be better, but happy with the result for my first ever concrete pour. Next time I’ll rent a mixer, though. The drill and paddle had a hard time really mixing it together.
>>
>>1641593
Think you guys could recommend me some decent inexpensive ratchets? Some where you don't need to swing it 10 feet for it to grab one tooth. I need a new 1/4", 3/8", and maybe a 1/2" drive. I've run mine completely ragged and they don't make repair kits anymore for the ones I used to have.
>>
>>1645286
Prior to 2011 NEC this was normal for 220 circuits. There should be a bit of black tape or marker on the outlet side of that to indicate it is not a neutral. I have also seen this used to save wire by turning the ground into a neutral. But that is very old and not code anymore.
>>
>>1646093
As the resident expert on Taiwanese ratchets, you should grab some Gearwrench 84T or 120XP ratchets. Gearwrench 84T 4pc flex head set (81230F) is only $82 on Amazon right now and pretty much the best you will find for the money.
>>
>>1646093
>>1646116
To expand...

If you don’t want to buy the whole big kit, go online and see if your local Advance Auto has the regular ones in stock. 3/8” drive 84T is like $25, $30 for the 120T. Use the online ordering and 25% off code and pick up 20min later in store for like $20. They’re both butter when compared to cheap 24T round heads or 36T Craftsmans. The 120XP is slightly smoother at the cost of a thicker head, and I never ran into a situation where I needed the 3deg arc because 4.5 wouldn’t cut it.

I highly recommend the flex heads though. The longer handle and flex head makes them so much more useful. Amazon has good prices on all the individual GW stuff and kits.

Tekton and HF Pitt Pro are both 72T and ok, but the plastic F/R switch bugs me. Kobalt 72T ratchets are the same design. Home Depot’s 72T Husky ratchets are nice, just like the GW design, smooth and thin, but they have a quick release. They sell flex heads too. And the newer VatoZone Duralast 72T ratchets are pretty good too, basically a Snap On ripoff. I have a 1/4” flex head from there and like it a lot.

There are some new 90T designs from Craftsman and such and they look straight, but I believe many of those are sealed and can’t be taken apart without ruining them, so you can never grease them or clean them. Not that this will really matter on a $25 ratchet for a weekend warrior, but it’s a nice option to have.
>>
>>1645925
If there are plants there that you want to keep, your options are more limited than otherwise. The idea is that weeds are easier to manage if you start with zero and stay vigilant. If they've set roots, seeds, rhizomes etc. in the area, you'll have a lot more work than if you just have occasional wind-blown seeds or border encroachment to deal with. So if area-effect methods are out, that means lots of weeding. Then more weeding once scraps start growing into green plants.

>>1645928
>if they do show up, do you suggest just tearing them out or applying preen again?
Preen prevents germination. It doesn't do anything to growing plants. If you take out all the growing weeds in an area, Preen can greatly reduce future weeding needs by preventing the seeds in the area from growing into new weeds. Growing weeds still have to be dealt with, and if you're vigilant, they're usually easy to pull.

As for mulch, the purpose is to have a layer of material that prevents new weed growth. Shredded bark decays over a couple years, but an annual application of a few inches makes a light-blocking layer that makes it hard for weeds to grow through. Discoloration is an aesthetic consideration, but it doesn't matter much for effectiveness in blocking weed growth. Different kinds of mulch can last more or less time (which reflects its composition, not whether it comes in bags or in bulk), but an annual application is generally appropriate regardless. You'd have to check your local selection to see what the options are.
>>
>>1646125
If I get these tiny little weed sprouts coming out of muh mulch, even like a month after I lay down fresh stuff, you think I could toss something like that Preen in the mulch? I have been hesitant to go too crazy with the Roundup because I don’t want to mess with the bushes or coconut I’m trying to grow.
>>
sup /diy/. babby /diy/er here. i just moved away from my home state a couple months ago and no longer have access to my dad's bomb ass tool collection. i have a decent assortment of hand tools including but not limited to

>combo wrenches, allen wrenches, 1/4" drive ratcheting socket wrench set in metric and imp
>channel locks, pliers, vise grips, etc
>dikes, tin snips, etc
>screwdrivers in phillips, flat, torx, and a few JIS
>tap and die set
>rip cut saw, coping saw, jeweler's saw
>framing hammer, ball peen hammer
>soldering gun and related shit
>assorted other shit like whitney punch, file sets, squares, measuring tapes, etc

I think I'm pretty set for hand tools, but I have absolutely zero power tools aside from a shitty Ikea drill. I'm looking for shit that I can use for
>electronics (mostly HAM radio, mechanical keyboard, and guitar shit: PCB design, assembly, enclosure fabrication from plastics, aluminum, and wood)
>extremely light metalworking (bending and shaping sheet metal mostly)
>light woodworking (nothing bigger than like a 3-tier bookshelf or something)
>general around the house shit

And as for what tools I should get, I want to keep the list short and portable/small since I will be moving a lot for the next few years. I have no idea what specific brands/models to get. Would appreciate recs

>drill + woodworking twist bits, spades, HSS twists, hole saw, forstner (already have all these bits)
>jigsaw
>oscillating tool
>rotary tool

Think these will cover my basic needs for a while? And I am a poor student so corded will get me better quality for the money, right?

Any help is greatly appreciated. I would ask my dad but we are both autistic habitual drunkards and our communication (nonexistent as of now) consists mostly of grunting/swearing and pointing at tools or shit to use tools on, then drinking beers in silence as we watch CBS sitcoms.
>>
>>1646148
actually thinking more big brainedly i can probably drop the oscillating tool and just use shit on the rotary for sanding
>>
>>1646148
>>1646149
So you think power tools are next? If you’re in the US, pick a brand and stick with it. Think of all the tools you want now, and any that you may possibly want in the future, and make sure that brand offers everything on that list.

Then wait for a sale. Not sure what the next one will be but you will get so much more for the money if you get down on one of the kits with a few batteries plus a free tool or two of your choice. Don’t pay full price on power tools. You can get screaming deals on Ryobi or DeWalt if you’re patient.

Also you only have a 1/4” socket set? You probably want a 3/8” set soon and eventually a 1/2” set. If the 1/4” is cheap garbage, buy a Husky or Gearwrench or Craftsman with all 3 sizes.
>>
>>1646148
>corded will get me better quality for the money, right?
Corded drills are generally inferior to cordless in quality and vastly inferior in usefulness. If you're in the US, you really should save up and get one of those combo starter kits they sell for cordless tools, the best ones are "drill + pick one tool" or "drill + something (impact) + pick one tool", with that you could get a good start for around $200-$300. Ryobi is probably best bang for your buck in the US, in Europe Makita. You can also opt for 12V instead of 18V as they tend to be cheaper, but they are obviously also weaker (still fairly powerful) and there's a more limited selection of tools on 12V.
For rotary tool you can get whatever, they're all shit.
The main thing about corded vs cordless is just how often you reach for the tool, but cordless also tends to have gearing, clutch, light, and possibly a brushless motor (but don't pay extra for anything brushless).
>>
>>1646148
You can make do with just a drill and the hand tools for now, but you will also need a benchtop power supply eventually if you're doing electronics.

Your shitty ikea drill can be replaced when it dies, and when it does go with ryobi. It will be available pretty much wherever and the line includes odd things you might use for that kind of work, like a cordless handpiece rotary tool, pin nailer and glue gun. You can add a router and and a jigsaw later if you need bigger or faster cutting than the rotary or your hand tools can do. Either can be bolted to a frame for more controlled cuts and both can cut thicker soft metal if you use the right blade or bit.

If you're moving a lot and can't guarantee access to a work space then you need some way to deal with cleanup. The simplest is to go outside with a workmate. An extension cord is hard to make work when the distance to a usable outside area is in flux or unknown, so you have to go with a battery system. You won't want to be getting chips/dust/shavings into the carpets and everything when you're just there for a few months and have to either lose your deposit or replace parts of the rental. Quality corded tools are better for a DIYer only if you work in a fixed location with known distances, such as the limits of your yard, shop or garage. Constant travel makes this harder.

If you want a real quality rotary tool go with proxxon. Dremel & knockoff bits will work with a proxxon but the attachments generally won't due to a different collar size.
>>
>>1645951
Ebay chinese if you want crap.
>>
>>1646122
>>1646116
thanks for the write up, my guy. looks like ill either get those flex head GWs or the tekton. how floppy are the flex heads on the GW? i need to add some flexy bois to my tool set, but ive used a few in the past and they were far too floppy.
>>
>>1641593
Dad is /diy/, but in the mid of a conversation he lamented how the stuff he does isn't "polished" for the lack of a better word. Is this related to lack of patience or are there more issues pointed out by others?
For now, he just collects tools but rarely does anything with them. He did a van der graaf for the fuck of it once but its accumulating dust.
>>
How do I hold a gear shaft in place to remove a stuck chuck? I'm disassembling an old drill to fix it and the chuck is stuck on hard. I tried the allen key and hammer trick several times with different weight hammers, even trying with vise grips for more leverage, and it just fucked up the allen key. The gears turned when I tried to do it with the thing assembled.
- It is a reversible, metal bodied drill, but it's from around 78-82 and there's strangely no screw inside the chuck to remove first
- the chuck does say 1/2-20 on it
- I tried the last of the WD-40 I had, no dice.
- Tried using a heatgun on full blast for a while til it started to cook off the WD-40 and other residue, nothing
- I don't have the money or space or need for an impact gun and the local HD doesn't have any for rent.
My plan is to somehow grab and immobilize the gear end but I have no idea how to do this without ruining the gear teeth, and it's set into the housing a bit. Removing the gear isn't an option I think. It looks like it's a keyed interference fit so I'm not sure if I could get it back on if I took it off.
What would work to bust this thing loose? Longer allen key and more tapping? Some sort of special pliers?
>>
>>1646289
I also cleaned a shitload of dirty grease from the gearbox and now have a bin with 3-4 inches of a mix of degreaser (LA's Totally Awesome Oxygen Orange), "40 year old mystery yellow" grease, rags, dirt and water. I'm pretty sure I can't just dump this into the garbage but my local "houshold hazardous waste" guides specify things in original containers or motor oil, nothing about mystery cleaning messes or contaminated water. I've been waiting for the water to evaporate but it's slow and this thing takes up space, plus I'm worried I'm sitting here breathing fumes or something even though I have an out-blowing fan on.

How do I get rid of this shit?
>>
>>1646289
>strangely no screw inside the chuck to remove first
sometimes it's an Allen head screw
sometimes a Phillips
sometimes a slot
>>
>>1646353
Yea there's nothing, it's a flat bottom in the chuck. It's a late millers falls drill, and a catalog a bit older than it shows the next model up coming with a JT spindle. Maybe they just put red loctite on it? Or is it possible it's peened over?
>>
>>1646355
>Or is it possible it's peened over?
I doubt it.
They're generally made to be repairable.
>>
>>1646353
Some Bosch drills have non-replacable chucks.
>>
>>1646258
I think the Gearwrench flex heads have a little detent that holds them at certain angles. Like 30-60-90. But most brands will have a hex or torx head you can tighten up as you break it in, pic related shows the Duralast and Pitt Pro. I don’t even own the GW flex heads because I was a dumbass and thought the HF ones were a good deal. They’re straight for the money but those Amazon GW prices are about the same or less for better tools.

I mentioned Advance Auto before, go grab the basic 3/8” drive this weekend for ~$22 with the coupon code and try it out. You will love it and order the flex head set the next day.

Also that $82 price tag is really good on those. It fluctuates from time to time, that’s about the lowest I have seen and then it will shoot up to $110 for a few weeks and then back down to $80-$90.
>>
I want to make a necklace for my girlfriend and thought about melting the aluminium in a steel spoon then pick it up with steel pliers and pour it into the cured clay form

is there anything stupid about my plan ?
>>
>>1646496
Yes.
>>
>>1646496
>>
https://humboldt.craigslist.org/tls/d/fortuna-milling-machine/6925628327.html

Does this look like it's worth it?
>>
File: santec bed mill.jpg (96 KB, 750x1000)
96 KB
96 KB JPG
>>1646511
For light milling duty only, low accuracy stuff not heavy hogging.

Unless it's all you can move around it would be better to get a proper bed mill and not a round column machine.
>>
>>1646518
Price wise, does it seem reasonable? I move around a lot and am looking to fuck around without rigging some sort of crane system every time I need to pick up and change residency.
>>
>>1646527
https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-Mill-Drill-with-Stand-8-x-29-Table-with-Powerfeed/G0760

$750 or bust
>>
Can I mix small amounts of plaster without a drill?
I have some cracks all around the door frame..
>>
I think I have the shade of stain I want but I always have a problem getting it dark enough. Do I do multiple coats? Do I go back and buy a deeper shade?

You can see on the paper it’s a pretty close match.
>>
>>1646667
Yes, mud buckets are designed to be mixed with your knives.
Slapping plaster on cracks wont be effective though. You need to sand down, plaster, put on some tape, and feather out like you're doing a normal joint. Otherwise it will just crack again right away
>>
File: vs wings.png (394 KB, 650x334)
394 KB
394 KB PNG
>>1641593
how do you make a stable yet detachable-with-ease wings like those from Victoria Secret fashion show? Can anon sketch some plan of the wing frame because I'm hitting the wall now with no progress because my daughter and I gonna wear them for the Halloween this year. I can sew and everything but figuring the wing frame mechanism is not really my thing and suggest me the material that's light weight yet can carry some feather and fabric loads. Pic related is the goal size of the wing frame relative to the figure. It would be better if I can get the exact plan sketch for pic related
>>
Can I use an oscilating tool to cut through tree roots?
>>
>>1646770
Make an oblong/long loop of steel wire and make a pocket of close tolerance to it near the back. Slide the loop into the pocket when she wants to wear it.

Go ask /cgl for more specific advise. Position might be important, and it might be extremely uncomfortable. They only have to wear that shit for 30 seconds and their job is to hold the dress together while walking. It could completely fall apart as soon as they get backstage.
>>
File: IMG_20190713_183352.jpg (2.35 MB, 3120x4160)
2.35 MB
2.35 MB JPG
Any tips on how to fix this. with normal plaster I know you could fill it with a putty knife and sand it. But with this I don't know what would be best
>>
>>1646770
If I were to do something like this, I would tentatively plan it as follows:
Something like a modified sports bra that is snug and firm but comfortable, with four hard contact points in the back. mounted such that they distribute the weight of the wings comfortably.
On top of that, the regular clothing part of the costume, with small holes in the back for the contact points.
On top of that, a stiff wire frame forming the curves of the wings, supporting chicken wire that forms a sculpted wing surface, covered in fabric or other decorative material. This forms a rigid single-piece assembly that slots into the contact points on the bra. Depending on size and weight, it may need a second support point at the lower back, where some cushioning can relieve some of the torque and weight while being free to move around.

The contact points and wire frame would require careful construction, and the specific details that would work depend on what materials and techniques you have at your disposal. 1/4" mild steel round bar stock and a TIG or MIG welder would probably work well for this, but not everyone has easy access to those and experience working with them. I could probably put a diagram together if materials and construction techniques are nailed down.
>>
Posting this here because I don't think it deserves its own thread and I also don't know if it fits here or /ck/. Let me know whatcha think or if you can help me. I'm growing potatos (idaho russets) and am looking for ways to store them. I can do canning, that's simple enough, but I was also thinking of making potato flour.

Now, I want to be able to do this without using a dehydrator or my oven (basically, without power) is there any way I could do that anons? Maybe cover 'em, put 'em out in the sun?

Looking for help and I'm finding no answers anywhere.
>>
>>1646840
Sun drying, is what you mean and will work, yes. But you can just put them in an environment similar to a root cellar and they'll last a good long time if you don't wash them first.
>>
>>1646851
Cool. Would rather not have to rely on the machines. Thanks anon!
>>
Is there any way to restore structural integrity in wood after drilling a few holes through it? ie, I drilled holes in the wrong place and now I need to drill more holes close by but I don't want to start from scratch. Is there some magic epoxy or something that I can use to fill the old holes and it will be comparably strong?
>>
>>1646863

You might get better replies in the woodworking thread, but if you can obtain dowels that are a close fit and are the same type of wood (or very similar) then I've had success with that approach. If the grain orientation is different and you try to drill a hole that includes part of the old and part of the new, the drill might try to go off to one side, but that is possible with many types of filler.
>>
>>1646863
Golf tees, chopsticks and toothpicks are all good. Squirt some wood glue in there.
>>
what kind of high amerage shit might be run in a higher end home workshop? everyone always says "as long as you're not running an arc welder" herc... trying to figure what gauge to run a service.
>>
>>1646773
Yeah, but a post driver and shovel would probably be faster.
>>
File: wmfs_close_up2.jpg (27 KB, 368x300)
27 KB
27 KB JPG
I'm trying to make poster/picture frames out of aluminum C-Channel, cardboard, and some sort of plexiglass/acryllic/glass.

What would be the cheapest kind of clear glass/plastic/plexiglass I could get to put in front of the poster?

In the image, i posted, im referring to the "lens".
>>
>>1646989
You going with 220V? There’s a limit on air compressors, it’s hard to go much over 20gal- 5CFM (rated) on 110V and that’s why there is a big gap between <30gal 110 compressors and everything above which is like 60-80gal. The best 110 compressors will struggle to handle higher demand air tools that you run constantly.

>>1646773
Ahhh the mutitool. Does many things but none of them get done particularly well. It will probably work slowly, but I guess it’s ok if there is no other real option.
>>
>>1647078
Are you looking for acrylic meant for framing? If so, 3m truvue conservation clear acrylite (it's more expensive than their conservation clear glass though).
If you want any old acrylic just go to home cheapo, art will fade over time from UV though.
T. Pro picture framer
>>
Is /diy/ the suitable place to ask for sewing templates? I'm looking for Norwegian Bunad cutting template...
>>
>>1647175
>>>/fa/ and >>>/cgl/ do the most sewing, but they're dicks.
>>
File: bracket.png (558 KB, 724x716)
558 KB
558 KB PNG
What is this idler wheel bracket called? Can I find one on Aliexpress?
>>
File: ZgcqEAE.jpg (262 KB, 1177x766)
262 KB
262 KB JPG
>>1646383
>>1646374
>>1646353

It's >>1646289
again, I managed to immobile the gears by installing them wrong. Confirmed again that there's no screw holding this thing on, just a small divot in the end of the shaft. I put a huge wrench on the end of the alan key to try and turn it, pushed pulled and gave it some mallet whacks. No movement beyond the little bit of slack in the gears getting taken up.

As I said this thing is probably from 78-82 because it has a logo nothing like any of the other millers falls logos I've seen, on a sticker (not molded in) and with plastic handles. So I assume it's from a few years before Ingersoll Rand shut them down. The only other mention of a similar problem I found was someone on practicalmachinist with a Sioux drill, but that was the last post the guy made with no resolution.

I want to fix this thing. Pic is what it looked like before I started taking it apart, it had a lot of problems. And I can't just put it back together as is because it's super dirty underneath the gear attached to the chuck spindle and has to be thoroughly cleaned with some light corrosion removed.
>>
>>1646134
Preen doesn't do anything to sprouts. It prevents germination. Sprouts are easy to pull.
>>
>>1647355
That was what I would want. I can Roundup the current handful, but it’s annoying when a bunch of new ones pop up every week.
>>
>>1641593
one of my rear disk brakes is seized. it was smoking after i got home from some highway driving. can i just put some oil on the brake rotor and ignore it for a little while? (to reduce friction and stop it from burning) i dont have money for parts right now
>>
>>1646174
>>1646203
Thanks famalams. I'll look for a drill+saw from Ryobi or DeWalt

>>1646222
yeah, i've cobbled together a 3.5/5/12v supply from an old computer PSU.
>>
>>1647350
>has to be thoroughly cleaned with some light corrosion removed
Use carburetor cleaner (one gallon dip) and stiff brushes to clean it up.
Pack it with grease and put it back together before you damage it beyond repair.
You can search for information about it later.
It's too nice to ruin it now.
>>
>>1647487
It's not that nice, the main handle was in pieces and held together with prayers and the price tag, along with the cord being herniated at the strain relief. Thankfully I should be able to weld the plastic back together, but honestly it was worth half what I paid. It was absolutely filthy inside and I cleaned the main body already, but the gearbox is a nightmare of a die casting with nooks and crannies all over, and the grease is thicker than pudding and mixed with filth. The spindle is attached to a gear with maybe 1-2mm clearance between it and the side and there's a "wall" trapping more gunk under it. I worked at it for like 2 hours and it's still absolutely awful.

I already found information on it, it's a millers falls 412R, probably from the era I said above because the early 70s catalog on archive.org has the same thing with minor differences. The chuck is also rusty and needs a deep cleaning (sticking, dinged up) but I have to remove it to do that.
>>
>>1646262
Could be lack of patience, could be frustration at how his hands just won't make what he sees in his head. Ask him, anon. Enjoy time with your dad while he's around.
>>1646293
Will it burn? Buy a sealable container and bury it.
>>
>>1647175
https://www.ingebretsens.com/crafts/nordic-style-costume-patterns ?
>>
>>1647407
>Ryobi or DeWalt
The other brands are good too. Ryobi is the homeowner-DIY tier brand. Porter Cable and Craftsman are both about the same level. There is a difference between cheap brushed Ryobi and newer brushless. Other brands are the same, the $99 brushed DeWalt drill kit will be shit compared to the XR hammer drill that costs $150+ for the bare tool.

DeWalt, Milwaukee, Bosch, Makita are all more of contractor brands. They all have extensive 18V product lineups, moreso than many of the weekend warrior tier brands mentioned before.

Ridgid and Kobalt would probably fall in between those other brands. They are more than you need as a homeowner and they will stand up on a jobsite, but probably not the best choice for a carpenter who runs his power tools 60hrs a week. Both have some great sales but a limited lineup when compared to some others. They have what you need, but they don’t offer those tools that you didn’t realize you needed like the Makita coffee maker or Milwaukee grease gun.

I would take a look at Ryobi if I were you. Wait for the sales and get a good setup. A brushless Ryobi 18V drill will give you years of service and they are consistent with their batteries so you won’t have to change everything in 5-10 years because of a new battery size. Of the DIY brands, Ryobi had the best lineup by far, that’s why I got the GF’s dad a Ryobi sawzall and a couple good batteries. They make almost every power tool you would expect and need, plus they have extras like the tire inflator, soldering iron, and rotary tool that most brands don’t offer for their 18V lineup, and it’s much more affordable to add a new Ryobi bare tool to your existing collection of One+ batteries and chargers compared to DeWalt or Milwaukee where you would have to pay $150 for something you might need twice a year.
>>
>>1647646
I don't think Kobalt is worth reccomending right now because Lowes is replacing a lot of kobalt stock with SBD Craftsman in stores, and the SBD Craftsman seems to be sort of "finding its place" in Stanley's lineup so I'm not sure that's a good investment either. Same with Sears Craftsman, it's just too unreliable for future support.

But the biggest brain move is to just get singular chinese tools that have their own unique batteries, treating each tool as having "its" battery and achieving enlightenment by rejecting the lithium yoke and simply replacing the whole tool for less money when it dies.
>>
>>1647662
I have been saying that too. The tools are a steal right now, but I don’t have much faith in that brand because Lowe’s has been getting rid of all the blue in their tool section and replacing it with red Craftsman. I’m sure they will carry the batteries for some years, but I wouldn’t be surprised if they already shelved Kobalt production and they’re slowly selling off the remaining stock of power tools.

And Sears has been switching over to the newer stuff. Their newer socket sets are coming with the SB&D ratchets I think, it’s a 45T with a round handle, not the old raised panel 36T. The old C3 power tools are getting sold off and Sears is bringing in the new red SB&D. I think they’re selling off the old stock like Lowe’s with Kobalt. The thing that pisses me off with Sears is that they’re still selling the old C3 tools for the same price, no clearance pricing and the brand new SB&D Craftsman might be cheaper.
>>
>>1647667
Probably because Sears has discounts and cashback sales all the damn time, which are some of the best deals on anything they actually carry. It makes it very hard to justify buying anything from HD or lowes if sears also carries the same item because I know I can get things for over half off at sears if I just get it during a sale. Assuming it stays in stock of course...
>>
>>1647405
Living so close to the edge a blown tire and your car is stranded on the side of the highway till the first of the month. WTF fix your life, then fix your car.
>>
File: IMG_20190714_161011.jpg (875 KB, 3264x1836)
875 KB
875 KB JPG
I'm welding with a Flux core welding machine for the first time. I haven't welded anything since college. Anyways, I'm trying to weld two 1/2" rods together but the weld seems pretty weak and I can pull it apart like pic related. What am I doing wrong? Am I not putting a big enough taper in the material prior to welding?
>>
File: IMG_20190714_160957.jpg (1.82 MB, 3264x1836)
1.82 MB
1.82 MB JPG
>>1647722
Feed settings.
>>
File: IMG_20190714_161042.jpg (490 KB, 3427x918)
490 KB
490 KB JPG
>>1647722
>>1647725
Using 0.035 Flux core, polarity is correct.
>>
>>1647691
>half off
But Sears also has ridiculously high pricing when the stuff isn’t on sale. I take advantage of that FreeCash stuff too, but sometimes you don’t want to wait 7 months to get your cash back and would rather pay a more reasonable original price at another store.

It’s nice when they have $10-$15 freecash on $20-$30 plus another $10 cash back. I’ll go grab a $40 item for $10 when those pop up.
>>
>>1644615
>>1645136
Been doing some practice and homework. Agree that 6013 is a better rod to practice with, so I'll be picking some up. I've also been seeing 7018 being recommended, but I don't understand the use case for it. Is it just that it's stronger? is there a benefit to having low hydrogen flux?
Also, one problem I've been having is in starting my arc. The rod has a tendency to arc briefly and then stick to the work surface, requiring a little wiggling to free it. Not sure how to troubleshoot this.
>>
if I use a ESD-safe bit holder, will it still be ESD-safe if I use any old bit in it?
>>
>>1647768
They will price match the same items at walmart/home depot/target/etc. as long as it's within range of local pickup and if something you buy goes on sale within 30 days you can get it price protected. There is also a constant set of coupons that equal 10-15% off at different spend amounts (IE 5 off 50).
>>
>>1641593
I have a wire segment where I've soldered it together. It's in a place where it's difficult to wrap electrical tape around it. Is there any liquid or gel I can cure into a hard insulator? I tried wax but it was too thin I suppose. Too brittle.
>>
>>1648099
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Plasti-Dip-Liquid-Electrical-Tape/16888975?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=4405&adid=22222222227009616975&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=42529846112&wl4=pla-81187513952&wl5=9021638&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=16888975&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIoqytkIS54wIVDT0MCh3pHg-OEAQYAyABEgKrcPD_BwE



Delete Post: [File Only] Style:
[Disable Mobile View / Use Desktop Site]

[Enable Mobile View / Use Mobile Site]

All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.