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Take This Printer To The Infirmary Edition

Old thread: >>1634646

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/7Sb4TVdy

>Need help with prints? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Bed & extruder temperature
>Print speed

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 7-1-2019]
Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 3
Under 300 USD Babby's First Printer: Qidi X-One2 or Monoprice Select Mini
Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3 (Mk2 or Mk3)
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot or Ultimaker
Buyer beware: some chinkshit clones are garbage. Some can be genuinely good, though.
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusion 360 are free:
https://www.blender.org/
https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/
>>
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>>1639870
>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 7-1-2019]
>>1639870
>Under 300 USD Babby's First Printer: Qidi X-One2 or Monoprice Select Mini
No one talks about this shit, no one own this shit.
Stop shilling faggot.
>>
>>1639879
I remember some people here talking about their Monoprice.
>>
>>1639879
>>1639884
While I haven't bought yet, no-one's recommended this stuff to me. So far its been either the Ender 3 or the Tevo Tornado. I've also had the 4Max Pro recommended to me but its a) out of stock in my country and b) out of my price range.
To follow on to that, anyone got any recommendations on those?
>>
>>1639885
I got the ender 3x on sale for 150 off ali
I'd recommend that if you can get it on sale, it's been very good for me, but I'm in no way an expert

what are you thinking of printing first of all?
>>
>>1639885
>To follow on to that, anyone got any recommendations on those?
as >>1639890 already asked, what are you going to print?
allround -> fdm printer
small high detail stuff -> sla printer
special needs -> expensive/order your models
also, do you care for eventually updating your printer? (availyble mods, is the design open source)
>>
>>1639890
Small models of spaceships and stuff like that, maximum size would be about 20cm on longest surface. I want a decent level of detail if I can get it but I've got no issues with getting a new nozzle and playing with settings. The Tevo seemed to get some decent praise but so many people also have the Ender 3 so I figure they can't all be wrong.
I've also only just found out I may have a bit of extra cash from my tax return to spend on it so the Prusa I3 is looking like an option, anyone got an opinion on that?
>>
>>1639891
see >>1639893
What would you recommend for a decent SLA printer? Think around 400USD max.
>>
>>1639896
I don't really know, I only have a cheap fdm printer.
And 200mm models might be too big for some common sla printers.
Some anons have an Anycubic Photon, and a quick search shows Micromake L2, Wanhao Duplicator 7, Monoprice MP Mini Deluxe SLA, Flyingbear Shine in that price range.
>>
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>>1639901
>looking into the Flyingbear Shine
>can definitely work with that print size for the scales I want
>good reviews
>fairly easy to set up
>could save a little bit to be able to afford it
>resin printer
>its not available anywhere
>its not available anywhere
>its not available anywhere
>>
>>1639879
>no one own this shit.
I have had four Monoprice Select Minis. They lasted about 500 to 800 print hours before needing replacement parts. Usually the cleats on the push-lock fittings would fall off. One got corrupted firmware and the display would go all glitchy once it reached temperature.

They all eventually corrupt their SD cards after a few months and those have to be reformatted regularly. They're very easy to modify and expand on their Y or Z axis. But I gave up on them as they couldn't handle continual printing without feeling almost disposable.
>>
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>>1639879
I have a Monoprice Maker Select Plus (AKA Wanhao I3 Plus, AKA IIIP). First one arrived with a bent extruder, so I returned it.

Second one shipped with a shitty thermistor where the insulation wasn't pushed into the glue holding the thermistor onto the screw that mounted it to the hotend. It shorted after a while. Thermal runaway, hotend caught fire, ended up replacing it with an all-metal hotend for more than the printer was worth.

Now the heatbed is warped, so I said fuck it and moved on to a Prusa MK3.
>>
>PLA keeps snapping for no reason
>don't want to bin it, since it's a whole spool
>>
>>1639982
had a spool like this too. Its a pain.
>>
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>>1639982
PLA is hygroscopic, meaning it sucks moisture out of the atmosphere. When it's "wet", it becomes more brittle than usual.

Get a cheap food dehydrator from Amazon that can go over 65F, then chop off the internal grid for each "shelf" EXCEPT FOR THE LAST ONE. That should get you some room to plop in your spool. Set it to 45C, let it pre-heat BEFORE putting the spool in, and then insert spool and let it dry for 4 hours. https://www.printdry.com/how-to-dry-filaments/

While you're on Amazon, pick up some Silica drying packets, the rechargable kind with an indicator dye. Throw these in your your spool into a 2-gallon ziploc bag when you're done printing. I use 2 Dry&Dry packets per bag and recharge them alongside the spool. You can also print out larger containers for the beads.

You can get fancier with your dryer. I upgraded mine with an Inkbird PID controller and SSR instead of the shitty bimetallic strip system, and added some aluminum foil for insulation.
>>
>>1640000
Oh man, i probably just need to turn the humidifier off.
>>
>>1640011
The moisture stays in the filament until it's baked out.
>>
I fixed my printer so I should be able to print the ukulele I wanted. I was originally going to do it all in glow in the dark, but I’m going to print each part in a different color
>>
>>1640071
I printed the bottom of the body that I posted in another thread in glow in the dark, but the top will be printed in blue, then the neck will be printed in purple and black. The tuning pegs will be printed in a mystery color. 30 hours left before I'm done.
>>
>>1640000
>When it's "wet", it becomes more brittle than usual
[citation needed]

Any plastic material I know gets less brittle when wet. It's done industrially for injection molded PA, PET etc parts and called "conditioning".
3D printed stuff is just less rigid when humind filament is used. The moisture evaporates in the nozzle, leaving an unclean print

but you got sick quads, I'll give you that
>>
>>1640085
https://www.element14.com/community/thread/54961/l/brittle-pla?displayFullThread=true
>>
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That fluffy stuff wrapped in the gold tape, what is it? It's not asbestos or anything like that right?
>>
>>1640093
>That fluffy stuff wrapped in the gold tape, what is it? It's not asbestos or anything like that right?
The fluffy stuff looks like glass fibre, it is mostly harmless:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glass_fiber#Safety
The "gold" tape is Polyimide, a polymer (one common trade name is "Kapton"):
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyimide
Glue on this tape is most like silicone.
The whole thing should be okay up to about 260°C.
>>
>>1640093
>>1640097
Oh, and the newer Ender 3 come with a silicone molded cap:
https://www.amazon.com/Official-Creality-3D-Silicone-Sticker/dp/B07HP2SWJX
>>
>>1640093
prolly dust
>>
>>1640097
>The fluffy stuff looks like glass fibre
oh man fucking chinks. if I don't ever try to remove it I'm good right?
>>
>>1640105
shits fine negro, it's not asbestos.
>>
>>1640105
na, it's okay. might just itch a bit on the skin. maybe use gloves.
>>
Is there a way to rip shapeways models from their 3D previews?
>>
>>1640151
Nope, the previews are rendered on their end.
>>
>>1640093
Likely fiberglass
>>
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>>1639896
>>1639904
Pic related, Anycubic Photon. I haven't heard half the names that >>1639901 mentions but there's at least 2-5 people in this thread which own one (including me) and I've yet to hear any issues that aren't user error. It's $440, though, but I think it goes on sale every so often.
>>
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>>1640262
I just know that as soon as I buy it, they'll replace it with a new one.
>>
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Who here /puttindownlayers/
ww@?
>>
>>1640276
Good news, they already have. There's a "Photon S" which has marginally better hardware and is made from plastic instead of sheet metal. Now you can get one without worrying the next model will come out for another year or so.
>>
>>1639890
Hey I just got the ender 3x from Ali for 150 as well came yesterday I still haven't gotten around to assembling it yet seems a bit daunting
>>
What happened to rotational IED anon aka Fan anon?
>>
>>1640277
>my printer wont properly put down layers next to each other when i use a raft
i mean, it stick but i want to use ABS in the future and that would need more surfacearea
why settings do i have to change for that in cura?
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NxgeESWS3z0 here’s a 6 dof robot arm printing with impressive accuracy.
Robot arms are easy(ish) to assemble, you can print one yourself. Stepper motors aren’t too expensive either.
Question is how difficult would this be to code.
>>
>>1640319
pretty difficult prolly
though there probably already is code out there for robotic arm printers
>>
>>1640262
>>1640280
Original anon here, my issue with the Photo is print size - I'm not quite sure it'll cut it. Shame, because for an SLA printer the price point is really attractive.
>>
>>1640293
Watch some YouTube assembly videos
>>
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>>1640319
>Question is how difficult would this be to code
look up Inverse Kinematics
>>
>>1640338
Do be aware that if you need prints of that size they'll run you like $30 each for just print materials. What do you need to print that's that large but requires such fine detail, anyway?
>>
>>1640365
[spoiler]spaceships[/spoilers]
Realistically I could scale them down a touch, but I really don't want to go small. I guess I could print in multiple parts then attach them?
>>
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>>1640369
>fucked up my spoiler tag
>>
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Fa/tg/uy here, I'v been looking into the photon for a couple weeks but just heard of pic related. I'm going to be printing exclusively minis and for the price point it looks too good to be true. Can someone who knows more than me about resin/3dp tell me what corners were cut to get this quality at this price?
>>
>>1640388
They're not as precise as the expensive ones which are used in dentistry etc, for example.
Long story short is that they're not the best if you need the highest precisionx which literally doesn't fucking matter with tabletop minis, so have fun and enjoy your minis.
Keep in mind that resin costs a lot but is still much cheaper than Games Workshops grey crack.
>>
>>1640000
>he bought a food dehydrator just to heat PLA at 45 degrees
Nigga just buy plastic food container that'll fit a spool inside. Drill a hole in the bottom to allow convection to take away the moisture, then just put a spool on the heat bed with the container over the top and heat it up.
>>
>>1640319
If bristol was nuked of the face of the earth tomorrow, the world would be a better place.
>>
>>1640433
I also have PETG that requires 65C.
>>
guys, i dont own a printer, but I want to get some large display models of a couple of battlemechs printed out.

what material do you recommend to have these models specifically to be printed in, so I can finish them and paint them to be displayed?

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3095232

specifically the AS7-S model. I also want to get a Madcat, an UrbanMech, and a Wolfhound to complete a full mech lance to display, but just this first.
>>
>>1640512
So what? You've got a heat bed that will do 100.
>>
>>1640563
Unevenly, with 0 air circulation.
>>
>>1640514
How are you getting them printed? If you're going through shapeways, they'll be nylon; if you're commissioning someone with a regular FDM printer, then ask for PLA.
>>
>>1640514
those look like they print as one piece. If possible, have your printing service use dissolvable supports so the overhangs print nicely and won't be marred by supports.
>>
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I heard you guys like first player porn
>>
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>>1640574
nobody tell him
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>>1640071

Progress on my 3D printed ukulele
>>
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>>1640582
>not fully glow in the dark
>>
>>1640582
Looks like Adam West Batman had a child with Tom Servo.
>>
For the people here that have a anycubic photon, can you repeat a print without cleaning the bed?
>>
>>1640602
Oh wow, it does.
>>
Im so fed up of people asking me to print shit for them.
How do i fix this?
>>
>>1640703
$2 charge per print hour of the requested item

you'll either turn a tidy profit or they will fuck off
>>
>>1640703
Charge money. Ez-pz
>>
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>>1640160
You could try Ninja ripper. It basically take a snapshot of meshes and textures from the raw data from your graphic card.
>>
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>>1640777
Meant for
>>1640151
>>
>>1640778
>>1640777
Thanks fren, that looks sweet. While it might not work on Shapeways there are plenty of sites that I want to try it on.
>>
>>1640319
>Stepper motors
You need harmonic drives.
>>
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here is my gyrotourbillon build, about 2/3 in, next up the chassis for it. still have to order raw material to build it.
>>
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>>1640789

what im printing now. hopefully i actually have about 90g in white filament for this lol. guessing so, looks more than 1/10 worth of kilo in there.
>>
>>1640703

im curious as to what they want you to print. what do normies want to print these days?
>>
>>1640800
dragon dildo molds mostly
>>
>>1640703
>>1640803
What state do you live in? Could just direct them to me, I'd be happy to take their dirty sex money. I have plenty of disposable gloves.
>>
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>>1640584
>>1640582
More progress. I just have to print the upper neck and the tuning pegs before I can string this and play it.
>>
>>1640781
Is that because the amount of backlash of 3 motors stacked on each other would lead to inaccurate prints?
Not sure how you would find harmonic drives, most sources I found list primo parts for $1000 each. Anyway there ought to be another way to dampen the vibration, either with extra gears or spring tension.
>>
>>1640574
I have no idea what this is but it looks vaguely art deco-y.
>>
>>1640434
wtf
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It's alive!
>>
>>1640803
>"Hey bro can you print me a dildo?"
What a time to be alive.
>>1640789
Gyrowhat?
>>
I have a shitbox from 1985 and the interior is impossible to find. people charge insane prices for anything they do sell. I want to remake the interior so I can put gauges in and not have it look shitty. As well as making original looking interior to sell. Would 3d printing be the way to go? Mainly looking at printing the center console with a flat face instead of ac stuff.
>>
>>1641060
It's just some useless mechanical curiosity
>>
>>1641065
Here's one piece by itself. Should I go with resin casting or mold injection but use the 3d printer to create the part tgat will be molded?
>>
>>1641058
Well done Anon, I saw you in several old threads but I haven't even checked gor what you're going to use this badboy for, so what is the purpose?
Looks really neat.
>>
>>1641065
yeah sure 3d printing could do it
the question is can you 3d model? because if you can't then 3d printing is not gonna help you out
>>
>>1641067
Just print it, sand it, and then paint it, no need for molding
>>
>>1641067
If you can I would just print it in ABS, sand and polish it
>>
>>1641069
I took a class last year. Im not the best but I can definitely work on it
>>
>>1641073
Well yeah then give it a try, look up some guides on how to post process 3d printed parts.
Also, these days it might end up being cheaper to just buy a cheap chink printer than trying to have someone print the stuff for you but admittedly doing it yourself means that you have to do a lot of research and stuff to get good results
>>
>>1641074
oh and i forgot to mention, if you can make it work you can print these parts for next to nothing and sell them on ebay for a high price.
>>
>>1641071
>>1641072
>>1641074
My biggest question is the size. Will that be a problem? Would I be able to pump them out easily?
>>
>>1641068
Thank you. The aim is just to test the feasibility of 3D printed EDFs. I don't know what to do with it afterwards. Ideas on the table are heavy lift drone, jet bike, hoverboard or throw stuff into it for cool slow-mo effects.
>>1641067
That can be 3D printed just make sure to chemically smooth it afterwards so it goes with the rest of the interior and use anything but PLA because it's brittle and will melt in the summer. I'd recommend ABS because it's easy to smooth, (look up "acetone vapour bath")
>>1641076
How big is it? Most commercial 3D printers have around 20cm^2 build volume. If you want to pump them out invest in a printer farm because 3D printing is slow. One printer will take hours to print that especially at high detail.
>>
>>1641076
Also if it's too big for your average printer don't be afraid to print it in parts and join it together like I did with my fan. There are many different methods from simple glue to friction welding.
>>
How do you safely shave prints to fit? I’ve just got something commissioned, but I think it’s too rough to properly fit.

Pic not related.
>>
>>1641065
*eurobeat intensifies*

If you intend to mass-produce them it might be better to model, print and finish up a perfect looking master piece then make a silicone mold out of it. Not that you can't print multiple copies directly, but the surface finish won't be geat and would require post-processing work for each individual piece you make.
>>
>>1641084
Someone commissioned you to make something? Tell them to give you STL files with the right tolerances. if it's your own fuckup then use a Dremel.
>>
>>1641081
>>1641080
I was thinking about making in parts but im worried about the abuse it would get. People like to be rough with these cars and I hope those can take the daily abuse. if one works I'll see about getting more. Ill be buying a small more detailed oriented printer for the smaller bits. A lot of them end up looking like this and I really dislike the rivet look
>>
>>1641087
remember if you are selling it's not about what you like it's about what's popular. people like rivets and carbon fibre is pretty hot right now.
>>
>>1641090
Well those can be put on the existing plastic bit and are mostly for those people that track their cars. Most of the guys in the community that just drive them as weekend cars really want original styled stuff just to restore the car to what it was. You can buy that carbon fiber stuff anywhere but you can't get anything that looks original.
>>
>>1641091
If you are aiming for the restoration market then fair enough
>>
>>1641094
Most guys who drift them are young guys that don't care to have a nice classic car. Old timers are the only ones that restore them but don't really know about 3d printing or any of that stuff so they just keep trading the same pieces. I got mine around 2 years ago and its been an uphill battle restoring it. I want to make something for the next generation of ae86 owners.
>>
>>1641095
in 2013 I went to a model railway shop which are populated by 50 year old men and offered my 3D printing services but I basically got told to fuck off. The shopkeeper was so rude, saying he gets "many like me" coming into his store and "of course he and his customers know how to 3D print". So the boomers may be more clued up than you think.
>>
>>1641087
>Ill be buying a small more detailed oriented printer
about that, most 3d printers have basically the same amount of detail, there aren't really any "small and detail orinted" printers because you can make a detail oriented printer just by throwing on some better drivers and setting the layer height low in software settings and that applies to pretty much any hobby grade FDM machine
>>
>>1641097
They say that but they really aren't. They stick to what they know and don't like change. Ive witnessed it too many times
>>
>>1641095
In short your business idea is good but don't assume you'll have no competition from the old timers. Don't rest on your laurels, work hard at finishing, focus on attention to detail, take pretty pictures of your work.
>>
>>1640837

nice. you gave me my next project, not that actual one but a violin. dont know how to play but i guess i can learn?
>>
>>1641206
That is a cool idea.
>>
>>1641097
Have you tried the good model train store in Garden Grove? The one in Pasadena is too big for its britches. Not sure if that is too much of a trip on a Vespa, however, even if it is the second largest one they make.
>>
>>1641065
Fuk, toyota used the same ventilation images than citroen.
>>
>>1641097

He is lying. People like that are ultimately scared of 3d printing any frankly any tech that hurts them make money, that's why they are so quick to throw cold water over it. It's worse with hobby stores that sell model kits. I know of one store that will close down because the store heavily invested in model kits and less with supplies, paint, etc.
>>
>>1641065
I genuinly like the 80s look of your console. It looks fairly unused too.
That tape deck is rad af. I hate this modern blinky crap.
>>
>>1641288
>I hate this modern blinky crap.
Finally someone said it. WTF is the deal with bright garish colors blinking some irrelevant animation in LED / LCD / or even VFD on a car's dash? The music being played is still crap, most likely.
>>
>>1641097
>of course he and his customers know how to 3D print
Typical Boomer cope, he probably watched a Youtube video/TV report about 3D printing and the person in the video doing it was younger than him, which automatically means that he knows more about it because he is older.
>>
>>1640704
>>1640765
I considered it but ill probably get a response like:
"Are you a jew or what mate?"
In reality i dont care about the material, hell id even buy a printer so they can print their own shit when they come by. I just hate spending time doing their shit while i could be doing my shit.

>>1640800
Mostly broken parts like hangers, handles, broken off bits of larger stuff, misplaced cups/lids, animals. My colleagues often ask for specimen holders for some device and special parts.

>>1640803
Id be happy to. Maybe they bring a model that i have not printed yet.

>>1640151
What do you need?
>>
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>>1641230
https://vocaroo.com/i/s0nSYXSEBspt
A recording of me playing. It doesn't sound nice as my Cordoba ukulele and the thing on the top is just my tuner. It keeps getting out of tune, but I need to wait for the strings to break in before it stays more in tune.
>>
>>1641347
I also recorded me playing a part of Over the Rainbow

https://vocaroo.com/i/s0XzaC5NR0RC
>>
>>1641347
Nice; the sound is a lot better than I was expecting. Every once in a while I hear an off note, maybe one string is out of tune or one of the frets is a little uneven?
>>
>>1641368
It was a little out of tune, but that is typical when you put new strings on a ukulele, the strings will get out of tune a lot quicker. After a while it will need tuned less often.
>>
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I got my duet 2 wifi + 7" display clones in the mail today. Haven't tested the control board yet but the screen is fun.
>>
>>1641347
>>1641355
Sounds nice for a 3d printed instrument!
>>
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Printing ABS @210°C hotend 100°C plate
.2mm
How do i unfuck my shit?
Do i need an enclosure?
>>
>>1641483
the reason ABS requires an enclosure is because the further you get from the heatbed, the less constant heat the print receives, leading to different rates of cooling throughout the part, and warping the print and sometimes delaminating the layers. It doesn't have to be fancy, just keep the hot air in and don't cook your electronics.
>>
>>1641485
It doesnt need to be airtight or anything close to it right?
>>
>>1641486
Right, just keep as much of the air in as you reasonably can. In fact, consider adding an exhaust fan that pushes air through an active carbon filter so those ABS fumes don't gank you in your sleep.
>>
>>1641084
What's the overall size? Millimeters? Feet? Wildly different depending on what the acceptable slack is.
>>
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>duet 2 bed heater channel rated for 18A
>fuse for bed heater channel rated for 15A
>bed draws 17A
guess I'm spending even more money on an SSR for fucks sake
>>
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Am I going overboard with supports here?
>>
>>1641557
why does it have to be oriented like that?
>>
>>1641563

SLA/DLP printers want the minimum possible contact with the bottom of the tank. Makes it easier to separate for the next layer.
>>
>>1641557
>Slic3r SLA edition
Do you have an SL1 or is that program compatible with other printers? Amount of supports looks about right, I think, as I've run into problems where straight lines get wavy if I try to put them down any rarer. I wish there was a way to calculate the area at a specific height, I feel like there's a more optimal way to orient that but I have no way of confirming that without a lengthy process.
>>
>>1641567
i see
>>
>>1641568
Its the new-ish sla printer from monoprice, based on the malyan s-100. The software seems to work fine as far as I can tell. Im new to sla/dlp though so the orientation probably isnt optimal. I was hoping to reduce how much resin it required but keeping it from distorting is more important so I guess I'll leave the supports as is.
>>
>>1641575
Shame that the Photon uses some proprietary sliced format, or else I'd give the Prusa slicer a go. Default Photon slicer is just garbage.
>>
>>1641584
do you know about this?
https://github.com/Photonsters/anycubic-photon-docs#photon-slicing-software
>>
>>1641592
No, I didn't, looks like a lot of useful info. Thanks for the link, I'll comb through it in the morning.
>>
>>1641054
>height of technology and innovation in manufacturing
>muh college arts
It's a university city. They're all lefty arts fags with their heads firmly up their arses. If you can imagine the degenerate kambucha drinking hipster complaining about capitalism in a coffee shop while lamenting how his latest arts project doesn't earn enough to pay for his hair products, you're just a few Somalians on benefits short of Bristol.
>>
>>1641278
Pasadena, that's in California right? The one I went to was in London, England.
>>1641287
Funnily enough it has closed down. So 3D printing has made model kits obsolete?
>>
>>1641347
Damn that sounds good! An idea I just had is that with 3D printing you could make any box shape which could lead to interesting sounds. Maybe try that next?
>>
>>1641488
>tfw the first day I got my first 3D printer I left it printing ABS next to my bed overnight.
How long have I got left?
>>
>>1641639
I heard the university there is posh but I always thought of Bristol more of a port city than a university city.
>>
Opinion on the cults3d site?
They are spam shilling me on thingiverse. Is it any better?
>>
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Trying to summon the captain slug guy.
Was it you who had the filament quality spreadsheet? I need it and can't find it in the archive.
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I need some advice from people using SLA/DLP printers.
I am not that experienced with correct print orientations and I was wondering if this is correct/efficient?
>>
>>1641924
I'd go straight vertical like in the left image unless you have a PDMS vat.
>>
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>want to print a big hydroponic plant pot
>don't want to wait 24+ hours just for a big empty cylinder
>try out vase mode
>prints super quick and comes out perfect
>think all is well
>mfw trying to carry it while its full of water
I'm happy with how it turned out but I think I might just wait for the full strength print next time.
>>
>>1641933
I have an FEP film. I don't think that the print will stay still during the print if I were to print it straight up.
>>
>>1641944
I don't see why it would move, but someting else came into my mind. If you have issiues with bleedtrough your orientation will make the knobs on the front nicer. So I'd say go for it, it will even print a bit faster than straight vertical.
>>
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>>1641924
You need more supports, the center isn't as important as supporting the edges (but leave a few in there), otherwise they'll get wavy

You could also probably stand to slim down those supports, they look very thick to me
>>
>>1641971
Thanks, I will try that. I'll post pictures of the results in a couple of days.
>>
>>1641942
Might be worth looking into some sort of reinforcing spray for it, like truck bed liner
>>
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I'm going to make a website with assembly instructions, required nuts/bolts/motor, recommended filaments/printer settings and thrust/power graphs. Should I upload the STL files onto the website as well or should I just use Thingiverse?
>>
Any tips on printing PETG on a pei sheet? I tried some green painters tape I had lying around. The tape flares up after awhile ruining the print with it. I tried a glue stick, the print stuck well, but I think it ripped part of the pei sheet.

Do I stick with the glue stick and just slather it on? Do I get a glass bed just for PETG? If I get glass can I/do I have to still use a glue stick or do I use hairspray?
>>
>>1642056
what's next, you will get a trip?
and a tv show?
>>
>>1642065
Why the sarcasm?
>>
>>1642056
>Should I upload the STL files onto the website
Yes, and thingiverse as well if you want to. But Thingiverse will eventually go away or do something stupid like sell themselves to someone who claims all rights to your stuff.
>>
Is tree much difference between the photon and the elegoo Mars?
>>
>>1642063
>PETG
borosilicate or tempered glas plus hairspray works just fine for me
>>
>>1642063
Kapton is great for PETG. Sticks well but not too well without any additional shit.

>Do I get a glass bed just for PETG? If I get glass can I/do I have to still use a glue stick or do I use hairspray?
You need something like hairspray or Windex to stop it from sticking too well on the glass. PETG sticks on glass so strongly that it easily rips out chunks of glass out of it.
I remember some people also had great success with oleophobic hardened glass from screen protectors.
>>
>>1641942

Try making a version with 3-4 walls and no infill, it should print quicky and will be strong enough. You just need to model the pot such that its wall thickness is a multiple of your nozzle diameter.
>>
>>1641920
>Was it you who had the filament quality spreadsheet?
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1i4gAJg9YPuLxN61gHIKIrAAOWHXRB2bMPxEraNhJqSU/edit?usp=sharing
>>
>>1642182
Hmm good point. Ok I'll put the files on my website.
>>
>>1642285
thanks
>>
>>1642285
An other anon, but thanks too!

>>1642294
Else if you website is very popular, you should put a copy on a more used website like thingiverse or similar. It will allows more people to see it and potentially, be more useful.
>>
>>1642268
>>1642270
Thanks, I'll try out the tape first.
>>
>>1642331
Ok I'll put it on both.
>>
>my favela printer made it into the OP
>>
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>>1641230

Thanks for the idea again. Printing out instruments is really cool. Started on the body of the violin. Came out very sturdy then again I used 75 percent infill. I kind of fucked up by using ironing mode, it had a perfect shine to it but ironing mode erased that. I kind of get it back when i buff it but ill do that later. can anyone here suggest clear coat? I was looking at Spray Max 2k High Gloss, would that work?

violin in question: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2846076
>>
>>1639870
>Under 300 USD Babby's First Printer: Qidi X-One2 or Monoprice Select Mini

Anycubic i3 is better
>>
>>1642593
Why a wooden bridge on an electric violin?
I'm a violinist but unfamiliar with electric instruments, so just curious. Seems like it could just as easily use a 3d printed bridge.
>>
>>1642595
>Anycubic i3 is better
Amazon reviews seem all over the place. If you get a good one, great. If you get a dud, you're stuck with lousy support and have no recourse except Amazon's return process. So it wouldn't be a model I would order for anywhere that doesn't have a good return policy.
Monoprice Mini is the same issue, but Monoprice is consistently easy to get in contact with.
>>
>>1642611

there is a bridge stl file that comes with it, I have yet to print it. i don't know anything about playing the violin but thought it would be a cool project. im wondering though what type of violin pickup piezo i'm supposed to use. I know they suggest some cheapo $15 you can find on ebay but was wondering if you can upgrade to something a little bit more decent?
>>
How sketchy is it to download firearm files? Really want to try printing one but don’t want the ATF to shoot my dog.
>>
>>1639958
This is the do it yourself board not the do it for me board faggot.
>>
>>1642629
/k/ question, really. About the dog at least.
>>
>>1642629
>>1642668
You thinking about a complete weapon or a lower?
>>
>>1642671
a complete weapon
>>
>>1641648
people have done tests. long term exposure is most important. petg is safest, pla is resonably safe. i would avoid abs unless necessary, and exhaust to outdoors if it is. chemical safety isnt practiced enough with 3d printers. oh and by unsafe its these micro plastic particles that might build up or cause cancer i dont remember so well.
>>
>>1642629
Downloading and printing a (semi auto) firearm is perfectly legal (for the moment; this also assumes you're not a convicted felon or something). Printing anything other than a lower is a good way to get your self called three fingered jack.
>>
I bought some PETG for the first time. I researched which settings to use, but I'm not 100% what I should use PETG for. I know I want to print things that can survive in a car during a hot summer.
>>
>>1642786
that's exactly the kind of thing you use PETG for (when you don't want to deal with the endless hassle that is printing ABS or Nylon). Or just when you want something way less brittle than PLA.
>>
>>1642786
>>1642787
The major downside of PETG is it melts gummier than PLA and you lose some detail. It's prone to stringing and rounding off corners.
>>
>>1642629
You should probably worry more about blowing up your own hand. Or blowing up your dog.
>>
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I had this shaft driven extruder idea, are there any printers using something like this ?
>>
>>1642791
No, because I can almost certainly guarantee that that shaft will probably result in unwanted torsion
>>
>>1642791
>2 rails plus a linear rod
for what purpose? A single rail is already massively overspecced for a printer. Rails should also be supported along their entire length by being bolted to something flat.
>>
>>1642799
The rod appears to be a leadscrew.
>>
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>>1642799
I'm just drawing stuff for fun

>>1642800
yes
>>
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>>1642800
>screw driven X axis
>>
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>>1642791
>>
>>1642810
What of fuck is going on here? a cantilevered rail driven by a stepper connected to a bowden tube, for some reason?
>>
>>1642815
it's a ultimaker modified for remote direct drive.
the stepper rotates freely and spinns a square shaft on which the filament drive gear slides to allow XY-motion without moving the heavy stepper much. The "bowden tube" is merely a filament guide tube now.
>>
Hey guys is my ender 3 fucked up for good?

for some reason the z axis stop fell off and I came into the room hearing the extruder GRINDING against the bed

Is my printing experience permanently degraded?
>>
>>1642839

Is the hotend damaged or anything? We're not psychic over here...
>>
>>1642839
missing steps does not damage motors
if your extruder looks fine and your bed isn't damaged there's nothing wrong
>>
Just received my i3 Mega and one thing is obvious: I need to switch the stepper drivers, in its current state, the i3 Mega is way too loud. (+ fans obviously, but that later)

I don't want to wait 2 month for new 2208 to arrive from China, so I checked Amazon and found "KOOKYE TMC2208", double the price but they arrive in 2 days. Are these non Watterott TMC2208 (they are always the recommended ones) ok to use? I will also flash Marlin, so I don't have to switch the pins.
>>
>>1642936
I don't know, I bought 5 for $20 from Fysetc on AliExpress and they were fine.
>>
>>1642936
>2208
they are the old ones, get TMC2209
>>
>>1642786
PETG is god's chosen filament for mechanical parts. All the others are either too brittle or too difficult to print.
>>1642788
If you're printing mechanical parts this doesn't matter as much.
>>1642789
Did the 3D printed gun dude ever provide hoop stress data for his barrels?
>>1642694
Oh is it? I thought PLA was the safest. Good to hear because I use PETG exclusively these days. If I build a fume hood above my printer will that be sufficient or should I enclose it completely?
>>1642839
This >>1642842
>>
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>>1642841
>>
>>1642952
Glad you make sure that it's 100% dead and not just broken.
What the fuck are you doing man?
>>
>>1642952
nice
>>
>>1642971
>>1642987
ain't that vid from a few thread back?
>>
>>1642952
"Do not touch"
>>
>>1642952
>tries to force wires
>short, sparks, smoke
>CONTINUES TO FORCE WIRES
>Camera pans out revealing the shock warning lable
literally everything about this
>>
>buy lead screws from china
>they're actually pretty straight
goodbye luck
>>
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>>1642952
this is fine
>>
>>
>>
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>>1643063
>>1643065
You're a big printer.
>>
>tfw about to be under NDA for the most exciting 3D-printing research project I've done so far
God fucking dammit, I have arrived where I need to be - and now I can't share my experiences. I have no mouth and I must scream.
>>
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>>1642952

You're supposed to turn off electronics before working on them...
>>
>>1643072
very obviously a router
>>
>>1643089
nope, UV printer
>>
>>1643091
uv router dumbo
>>
>>1643075
I share your pain. I'm doing cool shit for my company as well but can't tell anybody about it until we release articles. What's the most you can say about it?
>>
>>1641230
>>1641347
>>1641230
>>1642593
I thought these 3d printed instruments would sound like shit so I youtubed it and was surprised. Ones that split up the body/ resonator cavity into multiple parts sound like shit, but ones that print the body in a single piece are pretty close to the real thing.
>>
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I like the MMU and all, but this print takes almost 8 hours vs 51 minutes if it's a single color. Sucks that it takes so long to change filaments, but what can you do, I guess?
>>
Has anyone here ever tried printing pressure vessels? Also what about prints exposed to water? How did it go?
>>
>>1643184
How big is your waste cube? Probably as big as the companion cube?
>>
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>>1643196
Yeah, pretty much. I can't wipe into infill because it really shows on light colours like the pink and white, but the actual tool change is what eats up most of the time.
>>
Any tips for removing crusty glue left behind from buildtak sheets?
>>
>>1643250
No idea what they use but try limonene
>>
>>1643184
print lots of them :-)
>>
>>1643267
Printing 3 already, which only adds on another ~1.5hrs per each. I really don't like leaving my printer unattended, though, particularly since I'm still breaking the MMU in. Plus, since my printer is next to my bed, it still is loud enough for me to not be able to sleep well while it's on (and it also heats up the room). Weekends are really the only time I can print with this so far, and I'm usually futzing about with models in the first half of the day, if I'm lucky.
>>
>>1643191
Some anon said that pla eventually disolves in water. I put a small skirt in a medicine bottle with water to test that on 6/23/18. I just checked and it still looks like it did a year ago. No damage as far as I can tell
>>
How can I remove zits on a print and still save the finish? I'm worried sanding the print will scuff up the area around it. I don't want to paint it.
>>
>>1643306
x-acto knife. in the future, align your z seam so it's a straight line.
>>
>>1643302
PLA does not dissolve in water.
>>
>>1643302

>>1643310
This anon is correct. PLA doesn't dissolve in water. If you pour boiling water on PLA it can bend and deform, though.
>>
>>1643191
I haven't but I read about it:
https://www.cvra.ch/blog/2016/airtank
>>
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What are your solutions for keeping steppers cold in a heated chamber? Mine are getting hot enough to melt the filament as it's being fed into the hotend, causing jams.
>>
>>1643350

Water cooling. Realistically, it's the only way you're going to be able to cool them off without sabotaging the heated chamber.
>>
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>>1643350
Stratasys tier solution:
>overspec steppers
>run a hose with cold air around your filament guide
>>
>>1643350
Lower the current limit of your driver.
>>
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>>1643350
I'm thinking about a chamber and I'm already worried about this.
Everything is just a workaround, as you would cool down your heated chamber, unless you insulate your stepper cooling solution.

Maybe just build a printer from scratch around an old oven, and move the steppers and rails out of the heated enclosure.
Like one madlad did with pic related (PPSU filament printer):
>>
>>1643302
Doing good science anon.
>>
>>1643377
>solar powered heated bed
genius
>>
Printing out something that is not work safe so i will not link it.

If you want to look it up on your own its on thingiverse by COLOR3DJP titled "summer"

The gist of it is its the top half of a girl in an intertube with one arm kind of outstreched and very freestanding.

The issue is the outstreched arm messed up and i got nothing but a pile of filiment till it got to a little below the shoulder.

The rest of the print looks good. minor support clean up. Would using a raft help with the arm? lowwering the angle at which supports are generated? Maybe speeding the program up?
I printed it at about 50mm tall, 0.04 layer height and 20mm speed.
>>
Can you swap out types of thermal sensors? The printer I bought came with a block that takes M8 nozzles, and a replacement heating element that is a tiny bulb.

I bought a new block that fit that type of heating element and blub, but when I went to change them it turns out this printer uses a thick and short tube style thermal sensor that looks 20% smaller than the heating element.

Did they send me the wrong kind of thermal sensor and will the tiny bulb one work if I swap it in with the new block?

It's an FLSun printer.
>>
>>1643448
I'm guessing the old one was a thermistor like this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32890886143.html and the new one is an HT-100K (like https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1000004907594.html).

You can change the type in the firmware configuration and then double-check if the temperature it reads is correct.
>>
>>1643465
The old one is like the 2nd link. It's the bigger tube shaped one. However in the spare parts they included the tiny bulb one, so that makes me think they are interchangeable.

However since they are using the more expensive one maybe I should keep it. I'd rather not mess with the firmware at the moment.
>>
question for the ender 3 owners. I have the red upgraded aluminum extruder is there anyway you can make it bite less? I have a certain filament where it failed mid into a 24 hour print and it seems like the filament snapped. I know this can be caused by the filament itself but I doubt it, the print was working fine for 14 hours and then failed. what is the ultimate extruder for an ender 3? that's a better question.
>>
>>1643517
It has a screw to adjust the grip strength
>>
>>1643302
PVA dissolves, PLA does not.
>>
>>1643558
>>1643310
>>1643337
it does though, it's just really slow
>>
I fucking hate ABS.
Sure, it has some applications that PLA and PETG aren't well suited for but getting good prints with ABS is huge fucking hassle. It's the Spoiled-Princess of the printer filaments and I hate it so goddamn much.
>>
>>1643573
me too
but i don't really like petg either since it tears up my PEI printbed
>>
>>1643572
>really slow
That's probably it decomposing, not dissolving. Water is not a solvent for PLA.
>>
>>1643702
oh wait yeah you're right
>>
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thornfag here
Just finished modeling Lumina... Was a pain in the balls. Need to spin up my Photon printer now to print this thing...
>>
Are the CR-10s improvements worth the money over a CR-10? Not exactly a poorfag but the extra $100 isn't inconsequential either.
>>
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post yfw your printer is printing right again
>>
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>>1643759
my printer never prints wrong
>>
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>>1643759
>post yfw your printer is printing right again
>>
>>1643600
>but i don't really like petg either since it tears up my PEI printbed
Get a better printbed. The powdercoated ones are bulletproof, at least the ones I've used have been. Printing PETG on one right now.
>>
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>>1643718
shit man, can i get the file, would love to add this to my collection.
>>
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>>1643759
printer is an Ender3, almost every print messes up a bit
>>
>>1643834
...always the same, or something different every time?
>>
>>1643834
how bad is your dip? mine is like a full mm, it's insane. I put a copper sheet square under the center and it helped a ton.
>>
>>1643836
my Y axis arm had a ~5 degree droop to it, and the bed has adhesion issues. sometimes it'll just sputter out for a layer and then keep going
>>
>>1643837
not too bad, fixed mine with a small peen hammer and a level. not the best, but it's better than the factory gave me
>>
>>1643759
But it's not
>>
>>1639870
whats the hottest new meme i should be printing and selling for loads of dosh right now?
>>
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>>1643957
>printing and selling for loads of dosh
>>
>>1643958
>he doesn't know
>>
>>1643957
>3D printed gun coming off of a plastic runner
>>
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>>1643958
>>
>>1643759
Monoprice makes select/wanhao i3. First 3 months was full of ups and downs but I finally am at 100% reliability.
>>
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>>1643986
people are strange
>>
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>>1643759
>finally got everything working again after upgrading something
>time for more upgrades!
>>
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>>1643759
>Old rambling Mendel smelling hot plastic even before inserting filament
>Why the fuck did it works again?
>>
who /drag chain aristocracy/ here
>>
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>5g part
>takes over an hour to print
Fuck i3-style printers, this shit sucks.
>>
>>1644016

I bought an original Igus one 2 years ago and still haven't bothered to put it on...
>>
>>1644045
how's that the fault of i3 style?
>>
>>1644049
Other printer designs work better at higher speeds because the bed isn't on a fast axis.
>>
>>1644049
shitty kinematics and frame design make it unreliable at high speeds
>>
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>>1644050
>>1644052
are deltas even all that much faster? and not to mention that they'll still have the same hotends which is the main limiting factor for print speed
>>
>>1643573
You just gotta build an enclosure to keep the heat in.
t. anon who prints gunparts out of PETG and ABS
>>
>>1643440
Yep, a support tree underneath the offending arm should help with the extensive bridging that the printer is trying to make.
>>
>>1644056
Deltas are faster because they have much lower moving mass. Flow rate only becomes the limiting factor when you get into the 100-150mm/s+ range, which is twice or thrice what i3s can do. CoreXYs are the best option currently because they're low moving mass and very rigid, so you can print quite fast with a big enough nozzle and strong enough extruder, only real downside is the belts are long as fuck.
>>
>>1644060
dude what are you talking about
in ordinary printing it is exactly the extruders max flow capability that is the limiting factor and not how fast acceleration is, there's a reason why print speed of 60mm/s is a standard even if the frame could handle double that
>>
>>1644060
>Flow rate only becomes the limiting factor when you get into the 100-150mm/s+ range
Flow rate isn't measured in mm/s, that's print head speed. Flow rate (calculated in mm3/s) is a function of layer height, nozzle size and print speed. If you want to get big prints done fast, you should not build a delta and move it at 100-150mm/s (which you can't reach even with stupid acceleration/jerk settings), you should take regular kinematics and go for bigger nozzle diameters and layer heights. Most hotends will crap out at 20mm3/s, which is 60mm/s with a 0.8 nozzle and 0.4mm layer height. I've ran a V6 Volcano in a bigass delta with a 1.2mm nozzle and 0.8mm layer heights, you can't really go over 60mm/s - and you can't add a Supervolcano because deltas are allergic to that much printhead mass.
>>
>>1644064
With a 0.4mm nozzle? That doesn't sound right.
>>
>>1644067
>0.4mm nozzle
Fucking nozzlelets, when will they learn? Come back when you're over 1.0mm.
>>
Fuck this gay printer
I designed a simple M2 screw tolerance test, I needed holes I can tap a M2 in. Pic related, each hole is .1mm wider.
So I print this test, find the correct size, print the final design (4h) and the holes are loose as fuck (the screws drop right into them)

The fuck? Ender3 by the way.
>>
>>1644079
m2 screws are generally 1.9mm major thread diameter and 1.5-ish minor thread diameter, so by making your holes (presumably) 2.1mm, they're oversized for a contact fit by 0.2mm. If you want to screw them directly into plastic with a good strong joint, make them 1.5mm.
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>>1644082
The point is the tolerance test and the final model had the same size holes and one was tight and one was loose. Same filament.
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>>1644079
show the model dumbass
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>>1644086
>the tolerance test and the final model had the same size holes and one was tight and one was loose.
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>>1644087
Not really relevant I think
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>>1644056
>There is either mendelstyle or delta, nothing else!
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>>1644089
true enough, what about print settings? were they same between prints?
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>>1644079
>>1644089
It is hard to see from the pic, but is outside diameter of those cylinders also the same on test piece and final piece?
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>>1644079
>The fuck?
Very few printers can do narrow tolerances on small inner diameter holes. I have a bunch of part/assembly designs where I have to be able to drive UNC 4-40 screws into holes in the print and the holes on the model have to be .007" oversized compared to a hole drilled for tapping for that thread AND they have to have a leading chamfer on their edge in order for the screws to drive into the print.

And you will get some more inconsistency from different filament brands, intermittent extrusion issues, or burr/elephant foot on the bedside of the print.

So for assembly I keep a 0.089" drill bit held in a pin vice for cleaning up holes that end up printing slightly too small.
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>>1643957
dilation kits
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>>1644089
>>1644079
I'd recommend getting something like these spacers and putting them in the holes instead (if you can make the holes a little wider to fit them)
heat them up a little before pressing them into the holes and they'll freeze into place
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32782075328.html
they're very easy to cut to length with dremel (with a resin cutting wheel)
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>>1644114
I'd recommend getting a printer that isn't crap.
For anything M8 and up I just print the bloody threads. At .2mm layer height, they come out perfect every time. Anything smaller, I just hand tap whether it's PLA, Nylon, PETG, ABS, whatever. They all hold threads great.
If your printer isn't doing what you need it to, don't reinvent the wheel and make it square. Get a printer that doesn't suck.
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>>1644116
You should be able to print holes down to M.7 easily at speed whatever the layer height. Any decent FDM printer can do it all day long with a .4mm nozzle.
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>>1644114
Not really necessary, just screwing screws into undersized holes is a perfectly valid solution
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iR6OBlSzp7I
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>>1644132
agree. any of the plastics used in FDM will form and hold threads well. Even machine screws, not just self-tapping.
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>>1644138
Well, nylon and PC will crack/craze over time, but that's a time scale of years for PC and decades for nylon.
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>>1644132
it does work, but if it's a part that will be screwed and unscrewed frequently, those inserts might be a better choice.
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>>1644132
yeah it'll probably work fine, especially for M4 and up
though I use M2 a lot so I got that set I linked
I just like it for the fact that the thread will never wear out, no matter how often I use it
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>>1644147
m2 sucks dork just use m3 socket head cap screws for everything
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>>1644142
>it does work, but if it's a part that will be screwed and unscrewed frequently, those inserts might be a better choice.
in that case, just tap it. That'll be good for at least a hundred repetitions. More than that.... yeah, an insert is better.
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>>1644147
>I just like it for the fact that the thread will never wear out, no matter how often I use it
then you don't want brass either. stainless steel minimum.
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Thanks guys, didn't want to stir up shit, it's most likely a combination of me being retarded, filament being chink shit and printer being not tuned properly for this kind of tolerances

I'll draw another tolerance test being 100% sure all the diameters are the same of the final model and try again. Or make smaller holes with a chamfer at the top and get a M2 screw drill or something

I nigger rigged this print holes by putting an infinitesimal shard of toothpick in them, now the screws hold well.
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>>1644184
>Or make smaller holes with a chamfer at the top and get a M2 screw drill or something
it's plastic. just drive the screw into it and let it cut its own threads.
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>>1639870
I just got an SLA Anycubic Foton printer and 5L of Isopropil are on the way... what should I print first?
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>>1644191
dragon dildo
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>>1644193 The print size isn't big enough.
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>>1644199
chop it up and then glue it together
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>>1644184
>I nigger rigged this print holes by putting an infinitesimal shard of toothpick in them, now the screws hold well.
No worries. Slightly undersized holes *is* a known FDM thing that slicers still don't accounbt for, but it should be 100% reproducible and easy to account for if you need to. If you're not getting the same results every time, and they're not in a very close ballpark to begin with, just a smidge small, something is wrong. Fix that first.
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>>1644201
sssEEEEAMS.....
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Hey are these FDM printers any good?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_Jg7O4lf5g

$300 for a fancy ass resin printer???
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>>1640388
oh so you're seeing them too

>>1644307
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>>1644307
resin != FDM, FDM uses filament.
>is it any good
watch the review you linked
>>
you can build an fdm but can you build a resin printer?
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>>1644314
>can you
Yeah, why not?
>is it cost effective
Not even remotely. You can build a far better FDM printer for a given price (past $500) than you can buy, but the same is not true for SLA, yet.
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>>1644057
Yeah, I figured.
Speaking of enclosures, there shouldn't be any problems with overheating the electronics, right? I doubt it'd go high enough to melt the PLA parts I made for the printer.
I've been thinking about making a frame with printed corners and and cover it all with something (not sure what yet).
What's the right enclosure temperature to keep anyway? I'm seeing wildly different values online.
>>
I ordered an upgraded on my ender 3's hotend with a titanium throat that goes on the block itself, would it help with heat creep? seems like a cheap upgrade, $8 for a small part but still its titanium.
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>>1644005
How is that sad?
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>>1644045
>>1644052
That sounds suspect, what's the part in question and the layer height you're printing at?
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>>1644199
>print size isn't big enough
>115x65mm
Damn, what have you been shoving in your ass, anon?
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>>1639870
ok, which one of you was this?
be honest

https://www.cbsnews.com/news/tsa-agents-nab-3d-printed-handgun-part-laguardia-airport-new-york-city/
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>>1643986
>>1644005
>>1644405
it's like aesthetic brims you don't have to remove until assembly time
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>>1643957
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>>1644469
more like waste of filament that does nothing at all
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>>1644482
>what did she mean by this?
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>>1644485
Cute 3D printed gun waifu is why I stay fit and further my education. They make my heart go doki doki.
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>>1644468
It's not printed, it's injection moulded by "Tommy Built Tactical"
And it's just a G36 lower, totally legal to fly with.
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>>1644488
>the media was wrong again
>but insist on perpetuating their outright lies
cant make this shit up
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>>1643730
Bumping this. Recently have been working with a lulz bot taz 6 at work and I think i've caught the bug and want to start printing.

All of my research has led to the CR-10 vanilla as a good starter printer. I know I'm supposed to check the glass bed for faults and print the knobs and filament guide for it, but is there anything I should know about it compared to the 10s? The CR10 vanilla price seems very competitive for what it is.
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>>1644492
Looking at the cr10 as well. It really seems to be the smartest choice.
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>>1644489
Not the media, it's the TSA that made the claim. More security theatre.
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>>1644468
>no comments section
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New Thread: >>1644589
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>>1641065
I like the console. Clean it up and get RID of the FUCKING CARPET fucking CHRIST
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>>1641971
That worked perfectly.
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Alright bros Im working on upgrading my CR-10 to 24v and 32 bit. What should I buy for a 24v heated bed?
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Just took my 2nd intro course (30 minutes, free from local library/makerspace). Now have access to their printer.

Other than just looking for pre-made STL/OBJ files, what should I do to improve? The didn't mention specificis and at the moment I'm just making what I see around me (tools, fan legs--one of mine broke so useful, etc.). Specifically I'm curious how I go from taking these very rudimentary pieces and going towards original content.

Do I need to start building out polygons and going from there? At this time I've only ever used Tinkercad --very basic I know, so I guess, what's steps should I work on as a post-beginner, but not quite novice??
>>
>>1646614
>>1644589



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