Awful Bottoms EditionOld thread: >>1600285All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/7Sb4TVdy>Need help with prints? Go to:https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:>A picture of the failed part>Printer make & model>Filament type/brand>Bed & extruder temperature>Print speed>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 7-1-2019]Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 3Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3 (Mk2 or Mk3)Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot or UltimakerBuyer beware: some chinkshit clones are garbage. Some can be genuinely good, though.Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/>Where can I get free things to print?https://www.thingiverse.com/https://grabcad.com/https://google.com/>What CAD software should I use?Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusion 360 are free:https://www.blender.org/https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/
>>1605319Posting again from last thread. I'm from /tg/'s new /3DF/ thread, which aims to be a happy medium between /3/ and this thread, focused exclusively on making printable miniatures. We'd like to be considered a sister-thread to /3DPG/, so this is just us saying hello, and letting you know we have a massive trove of Miniature files and bits, as well as a few /3/fags like myself that create new stuff.Anyway, hope you have a great day, and make something great.
I made a stand for my drawing tablet's pen
So I was the guy printing that gothic lantern, im just about done with the base, everything looks good except this part, looks as if it got pulled off. any reason why? it's an easy fix but still just wondering. this was my first big part and im going to print the top now. i set the temp at 205 bed was 60, .1 layer height, infill was i think 20 to 25 using gyroid, I think or oct. how would you guy about gluing this part back on? I have tamiya thin cement and also tamiya plastic cement, the one that comes in yellow bottle, or should i just jb weld it together? I also have putty on standby. im gonna replace the nozzle next with a new one and definitely invest in a glass bed.
>>1605346poor adhesion at that layer combined with a sudden change in diameter. Probably just a fluke, not worth the effort of sussing out and changing whatever actually caused it. consumer-grade 3D printers aren't exactly high tech.I would use some kind of gel superglue and then sand the joint, personally. JB weld is strong enough that you'd have a bitch of a time shaving it down after it's cured.
>>1605349thanks anon ill pick up some gel superglue after work tomorrow.
>>1605298Some input:From my experience at about 0.2mm and below nozzle size things tend to get very hairy and problematic, even regular dust on the filament can easily cause troubles. Would recommend 0.25mm if you want a specific nozzle size for printing the minatures or 0.3mm when it is supposed to stay longer in the printer for other stuff as well, 0.3mm nozzles seem to be capable of still printing 0.4mm width lines pretty well, but you need to print slower. Which brings us to the next point, you need to dial down your print speed with smaller nozzles, printing minatures with a 0.2-0.3mm nozzle should be done at speeds of 15-25mm/s. As for materials anything that has fibers or glitter in it is taboo per definition. ABS is said to have one of the best flowing parameters, i think E3D is even recommending it for its 0.15mm nozzles, but ABS is often a bit troublesome, would recommend ASA, better and easier printing performance than ABS and at the same time you still can vapor smooth it like ABS.
>>1605324see >>1605383Saw your post too late.
Hey guys.I'm trying to build a hydroponics ebb & flow tower. Basically, a pump will move water to the top of the tower, and the cascade of water will cause all pots to flood. They stay flooded until you turn the pump off.Here's a bad pic. Please give me some brutal criticism so that I can make a better design.
>>1605389Here a pic of each pot. It's modular
I don't think I've had layer quality this consistent before, after autotuning the PID on both the extruder and the bed this Tianse green has flowed and cooled perfectly, even after being out of the box for five months. .12 mm layer height @ 55mms w/ .4mm nozzle, Ender 3
>>1605396The back even glossy smooth in places!
>>1605383>>1605324Long bowden tubes will lower the print quality as well noticeable with smaller nozzles. It would make sense to use a shorter bowden tube while printing single minatures, you could place the model closer to the extruder on the print bed and exchange it to one that is just long enough. Direct extruder would be best, depending on how fast you print, and you will print slower with smaller nozzles, it would not cause so much ringing problems as with regular print speeds of 45-60mm/s with bigger nozzles.
>>1605389>>1605390Neat. What do you plan on growing in it?
>>1605413don't know yet. I would love to grow cooking herbs, but I'm afraid PLA will not be food-safe.
>>1605414You could make a PLA mold and then use it to cast the final part out of concrete.
>>1605414tl;dr for printing food-safe:>Use PETG, if not, use food-safe PLA>If PLA, coat with a sealant such as polyurethane>Only print with a dedicated all-metal hotend with hardened steel nozzles (no brass!)
this is a lot of work
>>1605423>i am retarded
>>1605419are brass and steel completely interchangeable? Will I need to change any settings?
>>1605425You may need to mess with temps by making them higher as I've found out. Steel isn't as good a thermal conductor as brass.Yellow brass = 111 W/mKHardened steel 1% carbon = 43 W/mK
>>1605423It looks like you've modeled the hot end of the Ender 3 and added little floating discs to it.
>>1605478It's going to be a magnetic effector.I like to work backwards, so at this point it's just the parts I need to fit to it. And I want a nice snug fit so I need plenty of detail.
>>1605489If I'm looking at this search right an effector is the mount between the arms and the hotend on delta printers, right? I see a few results on thingiverse too, is there any merit to replacing the stock one?
>>1605500I'm switching from crappy ball joints with tons of backlash to magnetic joints, which require a new effector.
>>1605396>>1605398This looks pretty good.
ok /3dpg/ I am doing a survey. I recently read reviews on the black pla I bought from hatchbox, and I decided to read the 1 star reviews, and I noticed im not the4 only one that received>badly spooled up>layers do not stick at all>receiving tolerance of 0.05 instead of 0.03I am looking for other brands to be my go to pla filament. I don't seem to have problems with white and green.
>>1605605god damn it im a faggot, the survey I am doing is what brand do you guys go with, and if you would recommend it.
>>1605605>>1605346I used hatchbox black pla for this one, it might have just been a fluke like anon said but I dunno and would like to know as well what other brands you use. I can say at least though that the white version of the hatchbox is really nice and i have had no problems with it.
>>1605628The reviews I read, were as far back as march of last year, and one being from feb. of this year. So it still seems to be an issue.
>>1605605I can tell you what NOT to use: Monoprice PLA+. My roll of that stuff has a diameter variance up to .1 and loves to curl. AmazonBasics is pretty hit and miss. Mostly miss, but I had a lot of hit with the transparent green. It wasn't very transparent but I got nice, consistent layering from it.
>>1605605>I am looking for other brands to be my go to pla filament.Ziro, AMZ3D, IC3D, and Paramount are all brands I would recommend highly.
>>1605605Amazon PLA+ 5 colors, No issues except bed adhesion trouble with white at lower temperatures.Amazon PETG, Black & Purple start ok and then a couple of hours into the print, start giving so much resistance in the hot end that the extruder starts slipping. I can make it flow at 260C, but it's a blobby mess at that point. Oiling works, but defeats the purpose of using PETG since it reduces layer adhesion. Orange has been printing just fine, but I doubt I'll buy any more Amazon at this point.TTTY3D Gold & Copper PLA, No issues, looks nice.Hatchbox Wood PLA, No issues, smells nice, have only done a couple prints with it.Sainsmart Clear PETG, No print issues, not the strongest layer adhesion.ESun Olive Green PLA, It was underextruding, but may have been affected by the Amazon PETG from before making a mess of the hot end. I haven't tried since I replaced the PTFE tube and nozzle.
>>1605605the one I bought of that shit has fucking cuts in the spool, like the filament has been cut in several places just to fuck up any long running print job.and I wonder if the guy that had an ender3 and swapped out the print nozzle and got better results was more due to inconsistent filament like that stuff
can 3d printers print casts for low temperature melting point metals or is it too hot
>>1605743I seriously doubt it. Unless you mean casting patterns instead of the mold it's self.Gonna have to use sand anon.
>>1605741Not unless you plan on using gallium. Your best bet it to create a master of the part you want to make, then use it as a sacrificial part for loss casting.
>>1605605It may or may not be the best priced filament in your area because of shipping, but the filaments.ca stuff I bought has been giving me really good results.
God fucking damn it printers are so dumb.>send over print data and leave the room>accidentally forget filament sensor on the bed>printer starts doing homing routine>nozzle rams into the filament sensor and the stepper starts doing horrible nightmarrish screaming noises>after a second the nozzle lifts up by 2cm and rams into the filament sensor again ant full speed>and again>and again>finally manage to reach the power switch and shut it offi hope nothing got damagedi dread to think what would happen if that autistic printer was left alone ramming the fucking bed all day
>>1605912>Not transfering gcode via an SD card or USB drive
>>1605915Is this a joke?I slice my model, then press a hotkey and it automatically gets sent to the printer and it starts printingI can't even fathom the level of cuckery it takes to having to ferry gcode back an forth on an sd card
>>1605917If my computer crashes, the printer keeps going.If my network dies, the printer keeps going.In Cura, if you have an SD card or USB drive plugged in, it automatically opts to save on it and then asks if you want to eject it. Takes two seconds.
>>1605920>If my computer crashes, the printer keeps going.>If my network dies, the printer keeps going.So does my printer. I use octoprint as brains for the printer.When i first got the printer i used the to use the sd card and then i tried octoprint and i would rather stop printing all together then ever go back to shitty sd card printing
>>1605912>God fucking damn it printers are so dumb.Thank open source AND corporate faggots for that. The quality of 3d printers under 1000$ is abysimal, there is no incentive for an established player like Canon or HP to enter the hobbyist 3D printer scene, because every freetard faggot would start screaming MUH OPEN SOURCE, and every corporate faggot would start screaming MUH PROPRIETARY FILAMENT. After all to make a good 3d printer all you need is good mechanics (stiff frame, linear rails/shafts), good electronics (adequate motor controllers, sufficient power for extruders/heated bed) and good software (slicer, wifi connectivity, resumable prints, etc). All of these things are the bread and butter of paper printer manufacturers, yet nobody seems to be interested in making a cheap sub $500 printer that works. We are stuck with half working chinkshit for the foreseeable future, I guess.
>>1605924i own a $450 chink printer which came fully assembled and i had nothing but absolutely perfect results from iti honestly don't understand why people throw away money on overpriced prusha tier shitit's good if you need fringe stuff like multi fillament printer or massive print volume, but for standard printers the cost is not worth it
>>1605927>i own a $450 chink printer which came fully assembled and i had nothing but absolutely perfect results from itWhich printer?
>>1605924Fuck you. We were stuck with 10000$ up Stratasys machines with chipped filament for long enough and "Canon or HP" did NOT come to our aid.
>>1605929Honestly, they kinda pissed me off when they confiscated DefDist's printer because GUNS BAD.Bet you they don't have said issues when Raytheon and the like come knocking with cash in hand.
>spent £140 on mp select mini clone 2 years ago>only issue was extruder clamp bearing exploding and clamp cracking, easily fixed and replacedguess I'm just lucky
>>1605920>>1605922>>1605917>>1605915I know it's a slight monetary step up but arguments like these just seem silly when you have a duet 2. No sneakernet, and none of the shortcomings of octopi. Funny that no one on 3dpg ever brings them up.
>>1605920>he ejects his sd card
>>1605997D-Do you not?
>>1605997If you don't eject it it could get corrupted
>>1606001the file could be corrupted if you removed the drive while you were still copying it over. Removing a drive that isn't in the process of writing does nothing.
>>1605605>amazonbasics black PLAReally good results with this stuff. >amazonbasics white PLAReally shitty stuff. No bed adhesion, horrible surfacing, felt like chalk.>3d Solutech silver metal PLALousy bed adhesion, kinda gloppy but still good. Usually really cheap.>3d Solutech white PLAReally good stuff, very happy so far.>Amazonbasics orange PETGNo complaints. Stringy but consistent.That's all the filament I've tried so far. By the time I started printing Hatchbox's reviews had already taken a nosedive so I didn't bother.
>>1606000>>1606001I rip that bitch out the nanosecond the saving bar stopsin my 26 years on this planet I have never ejected removable media, and have never had a problem with a drive being corruptedas long as it isn't being saved/read from why would it do anything?
Where can you buy plastic pellets at a reasonable price, in modest quantities? I can find tons of suppliers from China, the prices are very cheap, but obviously they require orders in the 100s of Kg.
>>1606054>alibaba>[material] pellets>sort by min order less than X
>>1606058The alibaba website is broken shit, the mimimum order field does not even accept units, only adimensional numbers, lol. Anyway, I should've added that I want to buy from someone with some kind of reputation, not some random chink shop who just sells who knows what. Obviously I'm prepared to pay a premium for this, but I think it's worth the peace of mind.
>>1606054>plastic pelletsshow us your filament machineor your pellet extruder
>>1606142>show us your filament machine>or your pellet extruderL-lewd
>>1605425Do it eith a standart nozzle and coat the parts with something foodsafe.You should be more concerned with growing mold or baceria in the pourous plastic than a few ppm lead that will never leach into the plant
>>1606142>>1606145>BUT I EXTRUDE FROM THERE!>Not right now you don't!
Is there a great disparity in print quality between a lulzbot Mini and Ender 3? I have access to a Lulzbot at a makerspace, but the drive makes it a PITA to use in the first place, let alone experiment with print settings.
>>1605912I'm glad the machines are dumb. you can trick them into doing all kinds of things that wouldn't be allowed if they were more restricted.In your case it was the operator that was dumb. You can't start up a cnc machine with loose objects in the workplace and expect nothing bad to happen. you CAN trick a dumb machine into printing with loose objects on the bed and with a little knowledge and foreskin avoid crashes. a'la putting weights into recessed pockets, or magnets into slots, and having the printer print over them. I do it with rfid tags all the time and its awesome.
>>1605922so if your octoprint computer failed for some reason it would still stop your printer.if having a dedicated pc for your printer is somehow less "cuckery" than using the printers mobo and a card reader, than I guess I'm a total cuck octoprint has legitimate use cases that are awesome, but printing from a dedicated pc instead of an sd card to avoid "cuckery" is a stuuuupid reason.
>>1606521>so if your octoprint computer failed for some reason it would still stop your printer.Hasn't happened in my experience unless it accidentally gets unplugged, and that's easily avoidable.>octoprint has legitimate use cases that are awesome, but printing from a dedicated pc instead of an sd card to avoid "cuckery" is a stuuuupid reason.Good thing no one is doing that.
>>1606519>with a little knowledge and foreskin avoid crashesThis is my new 3D printing motto
Redesigned fan blades to be screwed on instead of glued on and reprinted in PETG instead of PLA. 0.3mm/30%. Quality is terrible, feels flimsy. Going to try 0.15mm/50%
>>1606534I'm going to take this opportunity to be facetious: how are you making your g-code? You inputting your 0s and 1s with a hot needle?I suspect they're just sending the g-code from the computer a bit like how you send normal 2d prints to a normal printer.
>>1606575you should rotate the print so the blades print smoother and not the base, otherwise unless you planned on coating the blades extensively with something, the roughness is gunna destroy your efficiency
>>1605917>anon one month ago
For a couple of days now I have been wondering what the hell was wrong with my ender 3. I just got it a week ago. I indicated the bed as best to my ability and some prints would just not stick to the bed no matter what. I finally found out what the problem was, I didn't know being at the main info screen that you can adjust the FR on the fly, im guessing this is feed rate? It was well over %100 and might have bumped it and not knowing. Glad I found out. Prints are laying down perfectly. Now the question is, can I lock the main screen so If I turn the knob nothing happens?
Almost there guys I just need lighting now and it will be perfect I don't wanna print that though I wanna get an actual light bar that plugs into socket any suggestions?
>>1606621no need to lock it just keep an eye out
>>16066285050 led strip
>>1606621>If I turn the knob nothing happensTry turning the knob. Nothing should happen already. Feed rate is adjusted in the Tune sub-menu, turning the knob while not in the menu doesn't do anything.
>>1606645for a few turn nothing happens but if i continue the FR increases. I'm in the process of updating firmware right now.
>>1606603Rotate it which way? I can't print it upright because it will have no strength when bent. >The roughness is gunna destroy your efficiencyI was worried about this too but apparently the roughness helps the air stick to the blade, it's why golf balls are dimpled. Not sure if it also applies to airfoils though so I will try to get a better quality surface just in case.
>>1606685>airfoilsthey're called aerofoisl upi fi,n giblomh american
>>1606687Scientific books always use the American spelling for everything.
>>1606685rotate it so the blade is flat, not upright.
>>1606687Did you have a stroke or something?
I'm completely new to 3D printing.>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 7-1-2019]>Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 3There are 3 versions of the Ender 3. I assume the glass plate on the 3X is a straight upgrade and is only $10 more anyway, but which would you guys recommend between the Ender 3X and the Ender 3 Pro? Is there any downside suffered by using a flexible removable bed instead of a solid glass bed?
>>1606823I personally prefer glass, but many anons don't. Flexible removable bed makes it easy to remove prints, but I've had great experience with first layer adhesion on glass, so that's my go-to.
>>1605924Even the expensive Stratasys FDM machines are not that great, and none of them are immune to user error like forgetting your junk on the bed and hitting Print like >>1605912 did. Pictured - the state of expensive Stratasys printers in 2011>>1606224J..Jigoo?
>>1606853Looks like a pretty shitty comparison.Obviously they used a much larger nozzle size and layer height for the Stratasys.
>>1605349>JB weld is strong enough that you'd have a bitch of a time shaving it down after it's cured.All those epoxies are water soluble before they completely harden. A damp paper towel once it gets tacky and starts to set but hasn't hardened is all you need to smooth out. It's a super useful trick.
>>1606696The blade can't be laid flat, it's twisted.
>>1605927If you see a no-name Chinese product for $450 and a brand name western product for $900 most will believe the latter will be better quality.>>1606853Are you sure the layer height isn't different?>>1606872JB weld is shit https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nEgYfLE-RC4
>>1606878>If you see a no-name Chinese product for $450 and a brand name western product for $900they are both completely identical but the $900 has addidas or nike or sony printed on it
>>1606856>>1606878Yeah it's not an ideal comparison, the layer height looks different. Checking the spec sheet from Stratasys's official website it says:>Layer Thickness:>uPrint SE: .254 mm (.010 in)>uPrint SE Plus: .254 mm (.010 in) or .330 mm (.013 in)So it's possible that the software doesn't really allow you to go any lower.
>>1606885I wear adidas because I want to look cool
>>1606519>with a little knowledge and foreskintop kekThat's going in the title for the next thread.
>>1606932With a little knoledge and foreskin anything is possible
At 0.15mm/60% the surface quality looks better already.I might have the central hub printed in carbon fibre by a company so that I can market it as "carbon core technology" that sounds badass. But it can't just be meme words, so long as it's infused in nylon it's serious right?
>>1606689Not the 'international editions' ;)
>>1606934>tfw dumb and cut
I am making a hot swap adapter hole thing that will be attached to my extruder head ,so i can simply print out adapters for things like sharpies or mill motors and then easily attach or detach them.Basically it will all work by inserting a square peg into a square hole, super simple, but how do i prevent any wiggle while still making it easy to pull the thing out?
I was looking at upgrades for the ender 3, mostly the extruder upgrades. i looked up the aluminum one that comes in anodized red and then looked at the more expensive ones like https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/bondtech-bmg-extruder-175/sk/M88WAUL2?rcode=GAT9HR&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgZPbi6-M4gIVkxx9Ch2cpQ7UEAQYCSABEgJBhPD_BwEYou can find them around $80. Strangely though when I go look at review videos where they compare the stock version to the $80!!! version, the print quality outcome on teh stock is way better. This seems to be the case for a lot of these "upgrades", you pay more, sometimes a lot more and get shittier print qualities, why? are they just not setup right? some of these videos are by people who seem to know what they are doing, they have thousands of subscribers and the stock version print outcome a lot of the times looks better. explain this shit
>>1606979That could also just be a question of tweaking settings.I'm getting perfectly adequate results with my 3nder, so I don't feel the need to upgrade the hotend unless I want to print in some sort of material that the stock one can't do.
>>1605743Yes. You can print a High Temp resin on the Form 2 and directly cast pewter. I've done it.
>>1606975>but how do i prevent any wiggle while still making it easy to pull the thing out?Unless you have a milling machine and/or surface grinder, you don't. That design isn't going to work all that well without tolerances and surface finishes better than you can get with a printer.I am assuming, however, that you want the connection to repeat well. If not, then just give the thing a degree or so of taper and sand the mating surfaces smooth. It's still not a great way of doing it, but it's simple and should work.
>>1606975You iterate through a few versions by doing minor adjustments to the gap between the two parts until you land on something with the right tightness. It's not elegant but it works. I've done something like this to have the part cooling fan removeable, but i used a dovetail shape that slides in instead of a square peg/hole
>>1606975Add a hole and use a screwboom done
I think this will work pretty well. It has a hole for stability, and another leg on the side with an m5 screw hole so the screw will smash push the leg against the other part making it completely fixed
>>1607001Alternatively, you could used a keyed shaft and a C clip.
>>1607006Is it even possible to key pla without it being absolute garbage that breaks after screwing something in more than 3 times?
>>1607010Typically, when you make a key for something, you make the key the weakpoint, so that way you only need to replace the key and not the other, more expensive, parts.
>>1606979get the trianglelabs titan clone from ali (ender 3 edition)20$the stock apparently is shit as you cannot preload the spring and this shows on faster extrusion.Most aluminium extruders cant preload either, they are pure rice>are they just not setup right?likely
>>1606979Any printer that isn't using a bowden extruder is nothing more than a bad joke.
I have been getting this issue with Cura and I am not sure what to google to find a solution. The 3d Model looks fine, but whenever I made the Gcode there are these really thin gaps that mess up the print. Anyone know how to get rid of them?
It was going smoothly making a way to mount these minigun barrels to a plaque until the guy that asked me to make them gobbed on a ton of shitty paint and ruined all the tight tolerances I measured out right before assembly.
>>1607038It's not a water-tight mesh, so it's treating the "inside" surface as two-sided. You will probably need to weld some of the vertices together to repair the STL in meshlab.
>>1607036Direct drive is best. Bowden a shit
They quoted me 150 for the 100mm x 48mm hub in carbon fibre
>>1607040I mean, the paint isn't going to be visible in the holes. At worst you may need to touch up the corners after assembly.
>>1605319Guys how do i add z hop after every layer? But layer included layers of another objects on plate.
>>1607068What are you using? Cura, Slic3r, etc?
>>1607074none of your fucking businmess
>>1607085Okay, enjoy not getting helpful replies.
>>1607068I interpolate the polymernals across the plane of the bed. You do interpolate your polymernals, right anon?
>>16070681. Open GCODE in Notepad2. Add a z-hop after every layer3. ???4. Profit!
>>1607074>businmessthis dipshit isnt me, i use cura slic3r is to autistic for me. >>1607089
>>1607099>>1607089THX for reply ppl, ok z hop is easy to add
>>1607109I'm using Cura 4. Under the "Travel" tab, there's "Z Hop When Retracted". and under the "Material" tab there's "Retracted at Layer Change".
>>1607118>"Retract* at Layer Change"
>>1607099How the hell do i write this in one line in notepad? Notepad doesnt let me replace something that require lower line likeG1 ZxxG1 Z-xxPuting both inline not working.
>>1607119>"Retract* at Layer Change"Dont see this in 2.6.2 will check 4v
>>1607119>"Retract* at Layer Change"It looks like not responding for that setting. Just normal z move up. No lift and back
>>1607141Did you enable both it and "Z Hop When Retracted", though?
>>1606929We use the uPrint machines at work. I print on them every now and then; the interface that they provide is minimal for a slicer. They let you choose between two layer heights on the plus model, otherwise it's a single height. No options for infill percentage other than 'sparse' 'dense' 'solid'. The print beds aren't reusable; every time you print, you use a new ABS textured bed. The bed has to be recycled when you're done with a print; you won't get reliable layer adhesion again and can't guarantee the next incoming print will work. Beds cost like $5 each or something laughable.The attraction for these to businesses are two things: reliability and speed. By limiting the amount of settings you can adjust, you can rest assured any engineer that submits a print through the slicer will receive that part they wanted in the amount of time the program says it will take to print, and they print relatively quickly by restricting to large nozzle/layer heights. When I print to the uPrint farm, I'm sitting at my desk which is a 5 minute walk from the printers. I can check when it's done and go pop the part in the ultrasonic cleaner and get rid of the supports. Compare this with a hobbyist one, where we get endless questions about bed adhesion, temperature for the material, enclosures, slicer settings, etc. I don't think about that at all at work. I don't think about temperature of the nozzle at work. I don't worry about retraction at work. I don't have to worry if there's a draft or a fan's on at work. The machine does not bother the engineer and politely spits out parts that help the company make money in a reliable fashion, and that's an easy sell to managers and accountants when deciding budgets versus the $300 Chinese maintenance/IT network integration nightmare.
>>1607143Yea i gues it worked now.But it looks like it does it between support and normal obj layers instead making full layer with support and then z hop, its retarded or i am??
>>1607143>>1607099How come when i write in single line G1/0 X00.000 Y00.000 it works, but when do i G1 Z5.000 Z0.000 (like z hop) then it isnt?This whould totally fix my problem. But it need to be splited In 2 instuctions like G1G2Only then it works. I cant make in windows notepad something like that.
>>1607204probably because you're issuing 2 of the same axis to the command.
>>1607204What would you do if you were told to turn your head both left and right at the same time?
>>1607001>>1606975Just use Fusion 360, it's so much simpler than dicking around in Blender for things like this, and I'm speaking from experience here
Didn't see there was a new thread, so repostingWhy are most methods of lighting print beds I see recently over the top? In my experience, almost every single time, they're just about useless because they blind you and cast a huge shadow over the print itself because the extruder and carriage is in the way. Has nobody really made something better than this for newer printers? I remember LED rings used to be used a lot, what happened to them?inb4 "make your own"; that's not an answer to my question.>>1607079Sort of, but if you offset the light a few cm and/or add a diffuser it can still light up the print without it being too bright
>>1607218Its not same time. One after the second.
Fug, all my prints are fine, but every time i need to print supports directly on the bed they break off and i have to use a raftBut i guess not having to use any cucky adhesive or tape is worth it since i'm printing on glass
>>1607099>1. Open GCODE in Notepad>2. Add a z-hop after every layer>3. ???>4. Profit!How is this suppose to work when Znnn just make it back always on same position? Z position is increasing.
>>1607345In GCode, that's exactly what you did.
>>1607292I use blender for game development an am quite experienced with it.It would not be worth my time to learn another 3d modeling program just to make a 3d print model from time to time
What's the proper start gcode for unified bed leveling? I want it to load the mesh from EEPROM and just do the 3-point level but it just says "Error: Probing failed" and stops OctoPrint after doing it.G28 ; home all axesG29 A ; turn on UBLG29 L1 ; load meshG29 J ; 3 point level
>>1607357just gluestick if you absolutely need tiny part adhesion lmao the answer is right there and rafts ain't it
>>1607001Nice. It sits there as if it was all a single piece. This will work great even with the milling motors. it's pretty sturdy
This z hop in cura 4 is not working! I tried all options and its just jumping like reatard at first 2 layers ant then nothing.
Is buying simplify3D worth the $150? Is it better than cura/slic3r?
>>1607564No. I bought it and end up using slic3r anyways.
>>1607564No, just pirate it.
>>1607601Got a link?
>>1607564>buying Simplify3D everHahahaha
I have found the next big project that I want to start and never finish
So, how required is it to coat a PLA print with primer before using acrylic paint on it?I tested a drop of paint directly on an old failed print and it just seems under the top layer, highlighting the grain of the filament.
>>1607658Finally some use for my Prusa and Make(TM) 3D printing guides.
>>1607664I've been outed as a soiboi, how will I ever recover?
>>1607668Go skeet shooting?
>>1607669skeet surfing is betterhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=af9N7UhTMA8
>>1605605Solutech, Sunlu PLA+, and ESun PLA+ are all brands Ive never had issues with. Esun comes in very matte colors, and Sunlu all have a slight silk sheen to them. Just avoid Sunlu's silver if youre actually wanting silver, its more of a shiny gray.
>>1607428nevermind, one of my swiss clips was blocking the nozzle when it did the 3-point level but not the UBL mesh
I have a file with gcode from a slicer and i need to change it so it works like this:basically i move the printer head by hand to a position on X Y Z i want, and when i start the print i want printer to consider that position to be as if it was homed at 0 0 0 So to put it more simply if the gcode says "move to the right by 2cm" it moves 2 cm from that position i left it in
>>1607690So if i run it without parameters it set's whatever position it is currently in as 0 0 0 ?Does that last only during that one print or until the printer reboots?
>>1607693>So if i run it without parameters it set's whatever position it is currently in as 0 0 0 ?Yes.>Does that last only during that one print or until the printer reboots?Depends on the printer/firmware. Probably won't remember.
>>1607607It's on the pirate bay. I use it, pirated it, works fine, have never bothered to learn cura but I'm sure at some point in the future I'll give it a shot.
I'm working on an e3d v6 adapter. It's a two part clamp design. Both parts have a half circle that fits around the top of the heat sink. One side bolts to the print head, and the other has screws running through it into the first part, and they sandwich the v6 between them. It works well and fits tightly. The screws just thread into the plastic, which I'll fix eventually, but it holds firmly for now. I printed it in PLA, 20% infill. The e3d customer support guy said the heatsink shouldn't pass 40C with the fan on, and that a PLA adapter would be fine. When I heat it up, however, the v6 is able to wobble a bit. When I cool it down I don't see any melting. I'm still working out where the wobble is coming from; could be the clamp screws loosening, the mounting screws loosening, or the clamp surface itself shrinking. I could use some guidance here though. I'm not entirely sure how PLA behaves when it comes to slight heat increases, so I'm not sure where I should be looking, or how I can improve my design. I am wondering if I can design the offending feature to be oversized so that when it shrinks (assuming that's the issue) it will fit, and then I can just warm it up before installing it. If my fundamental issue using PLA that's fine; I just need to get it working for a few weeks, and then I can focus on printing an adapter with a better material, although raising the printing temp more to do that will be tricky. I can use shims for now, and if I need to make a slight change to the adapter and reprint it, maybe with nutserts thst cam be tightened or something, that's fine too. I've noticed a lot of designs for this use a U-shaped fixture and a straight piece that clamps it. Would that be better?
>>1607728I forgot to mention that the wobble goes away when it cools, so no or very little plastic deformation is going on. Also sorry for the long post.
is a glass bed a must?
>>1607755I should add that im kind of getting tired of indicating this bed, I understand I need to do this after every print, but you just know the bed is never really flat, so will the glass bed help with that?
>>1607759You can buy sheets of borisilicate glass that are tested/proven to be +/- 0.01mm or less corner to corner. Buying cheap shit like those mirror tiles works temporarily but a mirror isnt made to be heated and cooled a few dozen times a week so it will eventually conform to the bed because of those alligator clips we use to attach them. Borosilicate does not warp from heat by design so it shouldnt do that, though Ive heard it does. I bought a $50 piece of glass from Lulzbot for my CR-10 and thus far is doesnt appear to be doing anything of that sort after more than a year on the printer.
>>1607762I went ahead and bought one from gulfcoast robotics. I'm sure it's the bed because when I print parts right in the middle it comes out find but as soon as i wanna use more surface if i don't indicate it almost perfectly it comes out all fucked up. It's diminishing returns, it was working fine but only after a little use i know its not flat. hopefully glass bed will help.
>>1607769>>1607762I bought this one https://gulfcoast-robotics.com/products/borosilicate-glass-for-the-creality-ender-3-4mm-thick-w-rounded-edges
>>1607363Can you really not wrap your head around grade school maths? Go look at how GCode is structured and written, it should be obvious when looking at command names and descriptions
>>1607755I switched from glass bed to fr4 epoxy sheet. Never looked back. No glue no hairspray and dirt cheap provided you have a heated bed.
>>1607773>22 bucksI got one cut by a gumpy grandpa in a glass shop for $3
>>1607890Don't use regular glass, it's gonna break after a while due to thermal stress.
>>1607706>pirated itIt's greedy jewcunts like you why the dyi 3d market is just a footnote in the industryif even 30% of hobbyists paid for 3d related software instead of pirating it, we would have dyi replicators by now
>>1607915>paying for software that is inferior to free alternatives
>>1607915>we would have dyi replicators by now1000x this. If you thieves would pay for software you could print an entire RepRap including ball bearings, stepper motors, and ICs for free using nothing but inexpensive filament. But no, we can't have nice things.
>>1607895I've been using a piece of regular 3.75mm thick glass i found in the basement for like 2 years and its still fine
>>1607915I bet he didn't even mortgage his house to pay for a SolidWorks subscription. What a fucking cheapskate rube kikenigger.
>>1608010If you pirate software then DYI (do yourself in)
If rafts fix whatever i'm trying to print does that mean my bed is fucked?
>>1608023Depends.Could just be that your Z0 isn't where it needs to be for adhesion (Especially likely if the part has very little contact with the plate). Or maybe you need to adjust the temperature of the plate and/or nozzle.I almost exclusively use skirts. If I see the skirt not stick properly or is visibly thinner than it should be in any given location I move up/down (respectively) that specific corner by a tiny little amount and restart the print as many times as necessary. A shitty foundation will only cause issues and this becomes more and more of an issue the taller the part gets.
I got tired of all the random extrusion problems on my I3+ and drank the orange kool aid.
>>1608026are there any videos on setting up the z stop? I can't tell whether the place I put it is the right height or not. I don't know what happened. It was printing fine and this one particular print had roughness on one of the layers, it almost sounded like it was dragging but when I indicated the bed on the corners i did it how i always used to do it and it would be fine. ill figure it out just gonna take time, which im starting to find out that 3d printing is not always easy.
>>1608029The height of the Z-stop dictates the Z0.On my printer (Ender 3), the Z-stop is mounted to a little plastic piece on the left side of the gantry and it has a little ledge that is supposed to rest on the base extrusion. However, when I went to set the bed height, even with the bed leveling knobs completely loose, it was still printing too far away from the bed to get proper adhesion. The way I resolved it was clipping off the little ledge on the Z-stop's plastic piece and mounting it lower on the gantry extrusion. Ideally, you want the springs under the bed to have a good amount of tension on them when leveled so that it minimizes the dip when it moves the Y axis up or down (Kinda like how the rear suspension of a car compresses when you hit the gas and vice versa when braking).Then, for the fine tuning, I made a print which covers pretty much the entire outer edge of the bed (I just made a rectangular pyramid to print in vase mode) and then watched very carefully as it walked across the X and Y axis. If it didn't adhere at a corner, moving the bed up a bit and if it looked underextruded lowering it down just a bit. After you have that worked out, tighten down some lock washers under the bed leveling knobs and you're good.Keep in mind, however, that if one corner is too high or too low, the distance between the Z0 and the bed will get worse and worse the further away from the center of the bed you go, so try to print in the center of the bed as much as possible (Printing multiple parts at a time can cause issues when G0'ing from one to the other, anyway).Hope that helps.
>>1608033>lock washersLock nuts. derp.
>>1608033Thanks anon for the info this will help later after im done printing this.
>>1608037Make sure to post results!
>>1608037We want to see how it turns out!
>>1608066>>1608088Yea that did the trick, it was the z stop. I guess the bed was moving while printing, it's a lot more rigid now.
>>1608094Nice print!Glad I was of help. :D
>>1607564>Simplify3D>"Only" $150.>Until the next big update.>Then it's another $150.Anon don't support that. Just don't.
>>1607915Simplify 3D is 150 dollars, that's 50 dollars less than when I spent on my printer. The software hasn't been updated with any appreciable features in ages, and the next release is going to be a paid upgrade for who knows what. It lacks many features that cura and slic3r both have, I only use it because I like the interface.
Question: How do people get away with selling models on cgtrader for example that are on tv shows like Game of Thrones, or marvel movies? That can't be legal can it? How are they able to sell said models. Granted they built the model themselves but still, characters like he-man for example must be copyrighted but nothing happens. The same with tshirt websites, etc.
>>1608099What do you like about the interface vs the others? Never used it, but I've done UI work and crap.
>>1608101Nobody cares about small potatoes and squeezing pennies out of them
>>1608108I really couldn't get into the huge amount of drop down and collapsing menus that cura had, and also really enjoy the g-code visualization in Simplify. I also really like the supports it offers, I've been able to tune it to give great supports that don't stick and leave little to no cleanup behind, but I'm sure enough time in cura could give the same results. Again, didn't pay for it and never will.
>>1606684So, I finally printed some stuff. Well.Pic related are my very first prints. I got this test modelhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2166102and Cura, and just did some prints with the mini spool that came with the Ender 3 (I got a full 1 kg one too).It seems that the bottom half is no problem at all, but in general the wall thicness and the line width is thinner than expected. Also the top and bottom, or more or less all z-axis layers don't form a closed surface at all.Before going into details and posting all different settings I tried; Anything obvious I missed? Just shitty filament? Increase feed for thicker lines? More than 20% infill? Infill pattern? 200/60°C okay for PLA?
>>1608122Looks very underextrudy to me, did you calibrate the extruder?
>>1608125>did you calibrate the extruder?Hmm, of course no!So, I guess I just need to extrude a bit more filament?
>>1608122Might be too low a nozzle temp. Try bumping it up 3 or 4 degrees.
>>1608127Yes, it's drizzling very little so the walls are full of holes. Google "Triffid's guide" on how to do the calibration procedure and set your Esteps correctly.
>>1608122Is your slicer set for 1.75mm filament width or 2.85?
>>1608125>>1608127>>1608129Just finished, 110% cura material flow setting.Looks still really skinny as fuck.>"Triffid's guide"thx, will report back...>>1608131>1.75mm filament width or 2.85?1.75mm, I checked the filament and printer presets.
>>1608133There's an extrusion multiplier setting in Slic3r, as far as i remember Cura had one too. Not sure what the difference between it and "flow" was, but it wasn't the same
>>1608135Looks like the same in Cura?However, trying Slic3r soon.
>>1608133If the temp is too low, increasing the rate you push the plastic in will just increase pressure in the nozzle. Eventually, it'll just start grinding up the filament instead of pushing it in.Try adjusting temp.
>>1608137Thought of one more thing - have you set the nozzle diameter correctly? If it thinks it's smaller than it actually is, it will extrude less
just need lights now.
oh, and no adhesion problem so far. just level the fucking bad, and everything is fine.>>1608138T is 200°C. Will try a bit more. And the filament is white, maybe this is an issue too.>>1608139yes, nozzle diameter is set at 0.4.
>>1608142That looks fucking fantastic!You going to use one of those LED candle things they make for pumpkins?
>>1608146if i can find battery operated on amazon that has candle mode or something where the lights flicker that would be pretty sweet.
>>1608148https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vpK9beBN98s find one of these and rip it out of its housing
>>1608146>LED candleokay now i see what you're saying, that is pretty badass. i wonder if they sell glass by the diameter.
>>1608122Check your nozzle, it may be fucked. I've had similar experiences with nozzle issues before, clogged or a burr present.
Esteps / mm, from left to right:93, 98, 105, 115hmmThe fill pattern still looks too thin, but the walls are getting too thick. Maybe it is a slicer problem? Or the filament? Or the 25 °C air temp? (print bed is still 60 °C).Time to try slic3r...(test model: 20 mm width, step depth 4 mm, step height 2 mm)>>1608189>Check your nozzleI'm not sure how. 0.4 is a bit small, can not check this at home.
>>1608230Lookup how to do a coldpull, might have a partial clog in the nozzle.
>>1608027Enjoy printing. The only "improvement" I made to mine that it actually needed was swapping out the knob; I've never liked their design and mine caught on the Reset tab consistently.
>>1608158Dunno about glass, but acrylic for sure. These guys are reasonably cheap, or you can look something up on McMaster-Carr.https://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/plastic_rods_tubes_shapes under "Clear Cast Acrylic Tubing"
Anyone have or seen some channer-face / ragecomics clay moulds or models to make some dank channer keycaps? My keyboard is strangely and sorely missing some.
>>1608230>Esteps / mm, from left to right:>93, 98, 105, 115Why are you adjusting your esteps like this? You need to calculate it properly.Check the hobbed gear in the extruder isn't fouled up with ground plastic.Check the filament isn't snagging on the extruder housing, if it doesn't have direct line of entry it will rub against the plastic housing and eventually wear a grove that will cause snags. Consider upgrading to an aluminium extruder housing or a 3D printed filament guide.Remove the bowden coupler from the extruder, cut the filament flush with the extruder housing, extrude 100mm and measure exactly how much now sticks out from the extruder housing (use calipers). Use the following calculation:Current esteps / (extruded length/100)Plug that into your printer and do the test again on fresh filament (never extrude the same piece twice, it'll only give you bad measurements).When you are extruding exactly 100mm on command, reassemble your printer.In cura, set your flow back to 100% (you should only be playing with this to tweak quality after you have everything else dialled in and printing correctly).CHECK THAT YOU FILAMENT PROFILE IS SET AT 1.75mm (not 2.85) and that you nozzle diameter is correctly set (it sounds like it already is).If the problem still isn't fixed after fully calibrating you machine, then it's a partial clog.Perform a cold pull to clear the nozzle, or as I do, just throw the thing away and install a new one since they're too damn cheap for me to want to fuck around with them.Print an inline filament cleaner (e.g. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3055147 and a bit of sponge).Enjoy you properly calibrated 3D printer.
>>1608375>You need to calculate it properly.Yeah it was late and I just tried some bullshit.>>1608375>cut the filament flush with the extruder housing, extrude 100mm and measure exactly how much now sticks outYes, I should have done this in the first place, brb...If the prints are still shit with the calibrated Esteps and standard settings (standard PLA profile, 1.75mm, 200°C/60°C, 100% feed) I will take a look at the nozzle. A spare one was included with the printer.
I have a 2cm deep hole with 3mm diameter and infill in it. How do i get the infill cunt out of there?
>>1608329I tried printing some but my .4 nozzle is just too big for any finer detail so the keys look meh in the end
>>1608014thanks for the chuckle
>>1608027when did you order yours?i want the textured build plate but it is out for the last 6 months now
>>1608027Funny. My chinky printer is made entirely out of metal, no shitty 3d printed parts, costs 5 times less than prusa and prints just as goodBut it's good you decided to donate to prusa research since big chunk of that money goes into the research they do so that the advancements they make can be copied by chinks for free and allow me to buy them for a fraction of the price
>>1608411Standard Esteps of 93 were a bit too low, 95.09 now feeds 10.00mm.Extruder calibrated, bowden tube cuts fixed, mounted new nozzle, testing now again...
>>1608434>10.00mm.I mean 100.00mm. Duh...
>>1608411Yeah that's pretty bad. The best way to seat the nozzle (once cut flush) is:Remove bowden tube from hot end.Screw in nozzle finger tight, then back a quarter turn.Insert bowden tube right up to the nozzle.Heat up hot end to 230"C.Tighten nozzle.
>>1608122>>1608133>>1608230>>1608375Thx anon, I guess I fixed my shit!>>1608411>>1608434This is fine!>>1608483Yep, I disassembled the shit put it correctly back together.
I know it's mostly FDM in here, but I wanted to share a little warthog I printed SLA yesterday for my wargaming stuff and painted up. I've never done anything this tiny before. 16mm long. It would sit on the face of a penny.
>>1608487Looking much better. Make sure your belts are tight.My advice for print settings (these are optional and down to preference):In cura, set all your accelerations to 300.Set all your jerks to 5.Print at 45mm/s.Make sure coasting is enabled.Full part cooling fan.The ender 3 (and the CR-10S that I have) has shitty part cooling fans (and ducts) on the stock model. There's no need to rush into it right now, but for the future consider getting a 5015 blower fan and 200uf capacitor (wired in parallel) and mounting them with a petsfang. Doing so will dramatically increase the quality of your overhangs and bridges.
Ender 3 rollers are 625ZZ, right?
>>1605423Why not use a proper CAD program ;^)
>>1608511That would take 5 seconds in SW...
>>1608514Maybe not for that anon. Look at how fucking slow they are.
>>1608394That doesnt look .4 to meMore like .8
>>1607684I ordered a solutech brand since it was cheaper for me of the others you suggested.
>>1608538Care to elaborate?
>>1608551>i can tell a .4mm diameter hole from a .8mm one by eye in a jpeg photograph with no established scale
>>1608556>no established scaleTheres a caliper on the pic, nozzle hex is usually the same size. It would seem you are the retard...
>>1608495>print settingsMuch smoother with the limited acceleration and jerk!I tried surface ironing, makes a really nice finish.>>1608495>shitty part cooling fansIndeed, they will be replaced soon. Just too small and too noisy.
>>1608558>what is an established scale>i can eyeball measurements by proxy based on other eyeballed measurements
.4mm is less than 16 thou...
>>1608566>>i can eyeball measurementsIm sorry that you dont have engineering experienceNor trolling...
Speaking about nozzles and shit; what I spare parts should I stock?I thought of trying a simple brass nozzle set (0.2 to 0.8mm or so), getting more filament, better cooling fans and maybe a better extruder.
>>1608573>i am an engineer>you can tell by the way i don't use apostrophies and am 16 years old
>>1608577He's not wrong, though. Dimensions are only as accurate as the measuring tool and I somehow doubt your face is an optical comparator.
>>1608418Don't bother with the textured build plate unless you really, really need it - the texture it has is very coarse and unless you're specifically going for that look, doesn't look very good (based on the parts that came in the Prusa kit, at least). Nobody knows when it'll be in stock, either, so if you're on the fence just get the printer now and the buildplate later
>>1608579.8 is literally twice as much as .4, they're easy to distinguish by eye measure. Now, .4 to .6 or .25 is another matter.
>>1608491Nice job. Where'd you get the model from? Doesn't seem to be on Thingiverse, all the versions there don't have bases.I've always wanted to print and paint some of the ships from the series and have a setup with lights or some such, but unfortunately looks like most of the stuff I see is either simply terrible modeled or relies on textures/normal maps way too much to be of use when printed.
>>1608585>.8 is literally twice as much as .4, they're easy to distinguish by eye measure.Maybe if you have them side by side, but when there's only one in the photo? Not a chance.
>>1608588I might just have a photographic memory or something, but I've changed enough nozzles that I can easily identify the sizes I use, and that includes if a picture of a nozzle is clearly twice as big as what I'm used to. These E3D nozzles, even across different producers and Chinese clones, look pretty damn similar, and the nozzle hole in contrast to the hex nut actually is something you can tell by.I can't say if a picture of a .4 nozzle is .3, .4 or .5, but I can tell you that it isn't .25 or .8.
>>1608587>Where'd you get the model from?It's just a composite I put together from other free stuff. The Warthog is the Halo 4 or 5 rip I think that somebody converted for FDM printing. The Spartan is the plain unrigged Halo 2 Master Chief model. And the base is some free 40k base I had to redo the normals and some bits on to actually work. On the hog, I had to add some extra pieces, pose things and make some really fine stuff thicker for 6mm scale.I know your pain on the ships. I was hoping there was a good free Halo Pelican around somewhere but I haven't had any luck. I can't even find a good Gunstar from Last Starfighter that didn't have some jackass weld all the panels closed on it and screw up the radiators.
Can anyone tell me why my printer underextrudes just small details or walls of smaller areas? Currently running a square print with four 4mm circles,1 in each corner. The only part its underextruding is the small circles, all other walls are perfect. Printing at 40mm/s, 5mm retraction at 60mm/s, no combing or coasting.
>>1608596horizontal compensation setting in cura?
>>1608597Set at 0mm, Ive never even touched that setting and this is the first time Ive heard of it?
>>1608600Try increasing it by 0.10 mm, usually have to do that when I print minis. Will make part fits impossible if there isn't significant slop, though. Also be sure to look at the visualization of your g-code before you save and print, it is going to save you a lot of wasted filament from bad prints, because what you see will usually be what you get.
>>1608495>5015 wired with capacitorsI mean, I guess but I just bought the 24v version of the 5015 and gave it the ol chop n swap
>>1608626Well these particular designs depend on the holes being accurate. Funny enough I increased the temperature of my hotend to 215 and that seemed to fix the problem for now.
>>1608495>5015 wired with capacitorsyou can just use FAN_SOFT_PWM in marlin
>>1608495>5015 wired with capacitorshttps://youtu.be/azm1c55JOxk?t=7m10s
>>1608027First prints out of it, mount rings for a set of minigun barrels.>>1608418They said they won't ship the textured ones until they can improve their batch yields.>>1608421Great.
>>1608697That's going to melt after just a few bullets shot. Please post a video of you testing it.
>>1608584Not gonna' lie, I think that looks kinda' cool. Sort of like 80's bakelite.I wouldn't want it on all my prints though.
>>1608402If I go 3DP instead of sculpted artisans, was thinking of hunting down a forms2 or peopoly moai to try off the bat and not my prusa.. did you make the models yourself or are they out there on thingiverse/somewhere?
wont post it here but just found a site that has like almost all cgtrader models
>>1608421>my printer is so much better than yours >not telling which one it is though, i fear being shown wrong too much.In bird culture this is called a shitposting move.
>>1608718There are probably dozens if not hundreds of keycaps on thingiverse. DIYing a print is either really easy or fucking harder than fuck. Whichever you find your current project it will be time consuming. My latest one is a month in. I've gained and lost motivation more than once and abandoned it twice. This is the last time I take an existing model and make it 3d printable.
>>1608631The capacitor keeps the fan noise down at low speeds. That's it only job. If your chop & swap 5015 isn't wailing at lower speeds, a capacitor isn't needed. I put one in because I run dual 5015s and better safe than sorry.
>>1608726Give us a hint.
if you had $2000 to spend on a 3d printer, what 3d printer would that be?
>>1608763Brazil, Google. There are some for sale, like $20 but you can get access to a lot of popular models on cgtrader.
>>1608764a good one i can print dildos with
>>1608764Lulzbot Mini2There isn't much else in that price range that I've been completely satisfied with.
>>1608764I would save up longer and get a Form 3
something strange going on with a particular print. im on the 15th layer and it should be a lot thicker than what's on the printing bed, like im on layer 15 and at 30 it should be a lot thicker but it's not showing that on bed. it's thin. personally i think its nozzle that's why i ordered 30 of them and a glass bed. it will be here tomorrow.
>>1608836nevermind i fixed it. it's definitely the nozzle. i used a .6mm and its skating.
>>1608014dude stfu, stop trying to recover from your stupidity, you remind me of the "just 360 and walk away" bullshit.
>>1608764Is 2 $1000 printers an option?
>>1608764Right now I've got a possible order for several 30 hour prints that require large build volume, so I'd buy four Anycubic Chirons if I had a spare 2000 USD. I wouldn't mind two or three CR-10 S5's either, and 2000 USD would be a decent start for an Ender 3 print farm.If you're a consumer though, 1000-2000 is a wierd point in the market. It's well ahead of chinkshit, but it doesn't afford you any of the big name professional printers. Lulzbot Mini is probably your best bet if you're strict on the budget, but I started out on Ultimaker 2's so I'd wait untill I found one for 2000 USD. If this is your first printer and you have a 2000USD budget, I'd just buy a Prusa and keep the change for upgrades and filament.
>>1608764Prusa + Multi Material kit for it
>>1608764Like the other anon, an ender 3 print farm sounds good.
>>1608910>he fell for it
>>1608917t. someone who has never printed multi-materialIt's literally heaven. Use a prime material and a water-soluble support material, or two prime materials for separate colours. Save money while still looking cool by doing your shells in bronze PLA and your infills in walmart white.
>>1608921for soluble support an idex setup is superior. That prusa shit only helps wehn you want more than 2 materials.
I changed extruders, when i home, the nozzle is like 50X 20Y off from the bed corner. Is it possible to set this offset in marlin?
Couple of threads ago I took a survey on a new brand of filament to try, and I decided to go with 3dsolutech pla.I was mainly having trouble with black filament pla, and I have been wanting to print at .2mm layer height when I am in a rush to print.>pic relatedI managed to lessen my issue of layers not sticking as I keep getting the extruder hotter, by extra 5-10C.I am currently printing @ 230C to see the results.Now, when I do .1mm layer height 200-205C seems to be fine for it.Am I doing something wrong or is this normal temp for black pla @ .2mm layer height to get a good layer adhesion?
>>1608764I'm pretty sstifled with my Dremel 3D45, got it on sale at $1500.> inb4 proprietary filament shillThere are mods on thingiverse that let you use any brand's filament.
>>1608949>Am I doing something wrong or is this normal temp for black plaNo, not at all. Sounds like you've got PETG or your printer is returning the wrong temperature.
>>1609027Holy shit... I was about to link the filament I have. Which I will still dohttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME7CV7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1But this question popped up, and I didn't see a notice/or missed it but apparently it tells you to print at 230C temp. https://www.amazon.com/ask/questions/TxGGV170JM75JB/ref=ask_dp_dpmw_al_hzalol I need to read reviews/questions more.
Why does my top layer look like this? The homes are oval, and there's gaps that shouldn't be there (especially between the walls and the rest).
>>1609031If it works, it works. For reference most PLA prints round about 200.
>>1609047Dont get me wrong, my white and green filament, I usually do it at 200C, black when I tried to print at the same temp, the layers would not stick at alll.
Having trouble with bed adhesion with Sunlu white PLA+, E temp 215C, bed 50C was 60C, blue painter's tape on bed, still has trouble sticking. Any ideas? Printing first layer at 22.5mm/s
>>1609083Your Z0 might be too high.
>>1609087i'm getting good squish, it just lifts up as the nozzle moves away from what it just laid. I have a bltouch so levelness shouldn't be a problem. I just replaced the nozzle so I'm hoping this fixes it.
>>1609089Hmmm... What about your retraction settings?
>>16090906mm retraction at 40mm/s. The print fails consistently after I start the first bottom layer, the model has concentric layout so the start is a very tight circle, that just balls up on the nozzle and the rest follow suit. I'm gonna try changing it to lines.
>>1609093Are you using a skirt, brim or raft?
>>1609094Changing the top/bottom layer layout to lines instead of concentric seems to have fixed it, I guess this PLA+ doesn't like 1mm diameter circles on the first layer.
>>1609083>>1609089>>1609093>>1609095Ditch the painters tape and get a glass bed if you have too, that tape was a half decent ned adhesion method like 8 years ago, now its just shit because its so hard to level the bed properly. That Sunlu PLA+ is the only PLA Ive bought for the last few months and Ive never had an adhesion issue with gluestick on a glass bed.
>>1609036>the holes are ovalcalibrate your steps per mm on x and y>gaps in generaladd more top/bottom layers>gaps between walls and restincrease infill overlap
>>1609098> that tape was a half decent ned adhesion method like 8 years ago, now its just shit because its so hard to level the bed properlyIt worked great with my Hatchbox PLA that I was using before getting this new spool. I have an automatic bed leveler so I haven't manually leveled my bed in months.
>>1608921>Save money while still looking cool by doing your shells in bronze PLA and your infills in walmart whiteDamn, that's a good idea, I never thought of that. Another case for getting the MMU on one of our printers at work, I guess, thanks.
>>1609100PLA+ is typically a slighly different blend than regular PLA, that could be the issue. I still say just get a glass bed, painters tape is shit.
BTW, do you guys not use alternate extra perimeter?
>>1609102Have you tried PEI? I've heard a PEI sheet on a glass plate is the best adhesion you'll get for most materials except PETG, which chemically bonds to PEI and won't be removed nondestructively.
>>1609105Never had a reason to, in the almost 3 years Ive had my CR-10 Ive only ever had 1 print detach from my bed mid print. The other less than probably 5 adhesion issues Ive had were either not having a good layer of gluestick or bed leveling.
>>1609105Prince Edward Island isn't very flat, though.
Do these do anything? For 4 dollars why not buy them?https://www.aliexpress.com/item/TL-Smoother-Addon-Module-for-Pattern-Elimination-Motor-Clipping-Filter-3D-Printer-Stepper-Motor-Drivers-For/32962426040.html
>>1608949I'm using the white and silver Solutech and 220-230 is normal for my first layer. I use a glass bed and it refuses to stick at low temp. 215 seems my best temperature after that according to temp towers.
>>1609113I heard after a certain board version that it makes no difference. I have them just never installed it.
>>1609119Ive got an ender 3 I don't know what board version
>>1609121I believe it was Board version 1.1.3 or after but could be just rumors, i remember reading about it. Just open the cover on the bottom left and it will say it on the board.
>>1609122I have 1.1.3
>>1609083Gluestick on a mirror/glass. I use Sunlu almost exclusively for PLA and I've never had a problem with it.
how tight should the x belt be? i saw some guy stick a hex key wrench and pull it completely forward and then tightened. im asking because it just started making loud noises like the stepper motor was clicking crazy, tightened it and its gone.
>>1609122Trinamic drivers don't need them, and not all 1.1.4 boards have Trinamic drivers anywayhttps://blog.trinamic.com/2018/08/16/tl-smoothers-do-they-make-sense/
What is most likely doing this? Am I too hot? Did my PLA absorb too much moisture? Could this be a problem with 100% infill?Ignore the obvious spot where I stopped the print
>>1609208It looks like overextrusion>www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#extruding-too-much-plastic
>>1609208The bottom looks fine
>>1609208Your bed is probably leveled just a bit too close but yes its also more than likely 100% infill. Those weird lines are a result of new filament pushing old lines out of the way and crinkling up as a result. Youll damn near never actually print something with 100% infill, regardless of if the thinigiverse page tells you to. Generally if you want more strength you add more walls and maybe a bit more infill, not just crank up the infill.
>>1609211Of course it will, all the plastic is being squeezed out of the top.
>>1608921>>1609101>save money>prusa mmupick one
>>1609212>>1609210Ill check these out thank you
Just did the ender 3 mod (printed better extruder frame) for printing flexible TPE. Now it prints a layer and a half really nice, then it clogs for whatever reason. I believe its not clogged in bowden tube, there is not any wrinkled filament when i pull it out. Tried temperatures from 230 to 250 C, lowered speed down to 10mm/s. Obviously retraction is off. Any tips what to try next?
>>1608402Heh, I was thinking that if I did decide to 3DP instead of sculpting artisan clay to hunt down someone with a Forms2 or Moai to achieve some fidelity. If I do go 3DP though, did you make the 3d models yourself or are they floating around on here/thingiverse or something?
question. i took off the x belt and was checking if holding the x motor wheel so it cant move is supposed to produce a clicking sound? where to get stronger steppers? does this mean putting too much force on the x belt will cause it to do that? because that's exactly what's happening.
>>1609104no but now I do, thanks anon
>>1609248Are you talking about this one? I have some capricorn left over and doing this mod would be awesome.https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3072475
>>1609281update. the x belt being too tight was the problem after all. i watched a youtube video where someone put insane amount of force but that's completely wrong, if you do that the motor will sometimes not have enough strength to move because its so damn tight. it doesn't need to be that tight, the more freerer x can move without the belts moving out of its place the better.
I like the hatchbox mint green color
>>1609362The blue one is also a solid choice, everybody in my office loves it and keeps requesting those two colours when I print things for them
New Thread >>1609372
>>1609302Yes, that one. No help with the clogging?
>>1609009Got any pictures of some prints from it?
>>1609408Im sorry, Did you clean the nozzle? Another thing might have happened is that the tube isn't seated all the way in the extruder and theres a gap where filament might've gotten in there.