[a / b / c / d / e / f / g / gif / h / hr / k / m / o / p / r / s / t / u / v / vg / vr / w / wg] [i / ic] [r9k / s4s / vip / qa] [cm / hm / lgbt / y] [3 / aco / adv / an / asp / bant / biz / cgl / ck / co / diy / fa / fit / gd / hc / his / int / jp / lit / mlp / mu / n / news / out / po / pol / qst / sci / soc / sp / tg / toy / trv / tv / vp / wsg / wsr / x] [Settings] [Search] [Home]
Board
Settings Home
/diy/ - Do It Yourself


Thread archived.
You cannot reply anymore.



File: collage.jpg (527 KB, 1800x1800)
527 KB
527 KB JPG
Awful Bottoms Edition

Old thread: >>1600285

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/7Sb4TVdy

>Need help with prints? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Bed & extruder temperature
>Print speed

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 7-1-2019]
Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 3
Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3 (Mk2 or Mk3)
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot or Ultimaker
Buyer beware: some chinkshit clones are garbage. Some can be genuinely good, though.
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusion 360 are free:
https://www.blender.org/
https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/
>>
>>1605319
Posting again from last thread. I'm from /tg/'s new /3DF/ thread, which aims to be a happy medium between /3/ and this thread, focused exclusively on making printable miniatures. We'd like to be considered a sister-thread to /3DPG/, so this is just us saying hello, and letting you know we have a massive trove of Miniature files and bits, as well as a few /3/fags like myself that create new stuff.
Anyway, hope you have a great day, and make something great.
>>
File: IMG_20190505_140820.jpg (518 KB, 1134x2016)
518 KB
518 KB JPG
I made a stand for my drawing tablet's pen
>>
File: lantern.jpg (205 KB, 1040x748)
205 KB
205 KB JPG
So I was the guy printing that gothic lantern, im just about done with the base, everything looks good except this part, looks as if it got pulled off. any reason why? it's an easy fix but still just wondering. this was my first big part and im going to print the top now. i set the temp at 205 bed was 60, .1 layer height, infill was i think 20 to 25 using gyroid, I think or oct.

how would you guy about gluing this part back on? I have tamiya thin cement and also tamiya plastic cement, the one that comes in yellow bottle, or should i just jb weld it together? I also have putty on standby. im gonna replace the nozzle next with a new one and definitely invest in a glass bed.
>>
>>1605346
poor adhesion at that layer combined with a sudden change in diameter. Probably just a fluke, not worth the effort of sussing out and changing whatever actually caused it. consumer-grade 3D printers aren't exactly high tech.

I would use some kind of gel superglue and then sand the joint, personally. JB weld is strong enough that you'd have a bitch of a time shaving it down after it's cured.
>>
>>1605349

thanks anon ill pick up some gel superglue after work tomorrow.
>>
>>1605298
Some input:
From my experience at about 0.2mm and below nozzle size things tend to get very hairy and problematic, even regular dust on the filament can easily cause troubles. Would recommend 0.25mm if you want a specific nozzle size for printing the minatures or 0.3mm when it is supposed to stay longer in the printer for other stuff as well, 0.3mm nozzles seem to be capable of still printing 0.4mm width lines pretty well, but you need to print slower. Which brings us to the next point, you need to dial down your print speed with smaller nozzles, printing minatures with a 0.2-0.3mm nozzle should be done at speeds of 15-25mm/s. As for materials anything that has fibers or glitter in it is taboo per definition. ABS is said to have one of the best flowing parameters, i think E3D is even recommending it for its 0.15mm nozzles, but ABS is often a bit troublesome, would recommend ASA, better and easier printing performance than ABS and at the same time you still can vapor smooth it like ABS.
>>
>>1605324
see >>1605383
Saw your post too late.
>>
Hey guys.

I'm trying to build a hydroponics ebb & flow tower. Basically, a pump will move water to the top of the tower, and the cascade of water will cause all pots to flood. They stay flooded until you turn the pump off.

Here's a bad pic. Please give me some brutal criticism so that I can make a better design.
>>
File: image.png (284 KB, 651x571)
284 KB
284 KB PNG
>>1605389
Here a pic of each pot. It's modular
>>
File: IMG_20190505_131319.jpg (1 MB, 1359x1156)
1 MB
1 MB JPG
I don't think I've had layer quality this consistent before, after autotuning the PID on both the extruder and the bed this Tianse green has flowed and cooled perfectly, even after being out of the box for five months.

.12 mm layer height @ 55mms w/ .4mm nozzle, Ender 3
>>
File: IMG_20190505_131216.jpg (1.02 MB, 1303x1137)
1.02 MB
1.02 MB JPG
>>1605396

The back even glossy smooth in places!
>>
>>1605383
>>1605324
Long bowden tubes will lower the print quality as well noticeable with smaller nozzles. It would make sense to use a shorter bowden tube while printing single minatures, you could place the model closer to the extruder on the print bed and exchange it to one that is just long enough. Direct extruder would be best, depending on how fast you print, and you will print slower with smaller nozzles, it would not cause so much ringing problems as with regular print speeds of 45-60mm/s with bigger nozzles.
>>
>>1605389
>>1605390
Neat. What do you plan on growing in it?
>>
>>1605413
don't know yet. I would love to grow cooking herbs, but I'm afraid PLA will not be food-safe.
>>
>>1605414
You could make a PLA mold and then use it to cast the final part out of concrete.
>>
>>1605414
tl;dr for printing food-safe:
>Use PETG, if not, use food-safe PLA
>If PLA, coat with a sealant such as polyurethane
>Only print with a dedicated all-metal hotend with hardened steel nozzles (no brass!)
>>
this is a lot of work
>>
>>1605423
>i am retarded
>>
>>1605419
are brass and steel completely interchangeable? Will I need to change any settings?
>>
>>1605425
You may need to mess with temps by making them higher as I've found out. Steel isn't as good a thermal conductor as brass.

Yellow brass = 111 W/mK
Hardened steel 1% carbon = 43 W/mK
>>
>>1605423
It looks like you've modeled the hot end of the Ender 3 and added little floating discs to it.
>>
>>1605478
It's going to be a magnetic effector.
I like to work backwards, so at this point it's just the parts I need to fit to it. And I want a nice snug fit so I need plenty of detail.
>>
>>1605489
If I'm looking at this search right an effector is the mount between the arms and the hotend on delta printers, right? I see a few results on thingiverse too, is there any merit to replacing the stock one?
>>
>>1605500
I'm switching from crappy ball joints with tons of backlash to magnetic joints, which require a new effector.
>>
>>1605396
>>1605398
This looks pretty good.
>>
ok /3dpg/ I am doing a survey. I recently read reviews on the black pla I bought from hatchbox, and I decided to read the 1 star reviews, and I noticed im not the4 only one that received

>badly spooled up
>layers do not stick at all
>receiving tolerance of 0.05 instead of 0.03

I am looking for other brands to be my go to pla filament. I don't seem to have problems with white and green.
>>
>>1605605
god damn it im a faggot, the survey I am doing is what brand do you guys go with, and if you would recommend it.
>>
>>1605605
>>1605346

I used hatchbox black pla for this one, it might have just been a fluke like anon said but I dunno and would like to know as well what other brands you use. I can say at least though that the white version of the hatchbox is really nice and i have had no problems with it.
>>
>>1605628
The reviews I read, were as far back as march of last year, and one being from feb. of this year. So it still seems to be an issue.
>>
>>1605605
I can tell you what NOT to use: Monoprice PLA+. My roll of that stuff has a diameter variance up to .1 and loves to curl.

AmazonBasics is pretty hit and miss. Mostly miss, but I had a lot of hit with the transparent green. It wasn't very transparent but I got nice, consistent layering from it.
>>
>>1605605
>I am looking for other brands to be my go to pla filament.
Ziro, AMZ3D, IC3D, and Paramount are all brands I would recommend highly.
>>
>>1605605

Amazon PLA+ 5 colors, No issues except bed adhesion trouble with white at lower temperatures.

Amazon PETG, Black & Purple start ok and then a couple of hours into the print, start giving so much resistance in the hot end that the extruder starts slipping. I can make it flow at 260C, but it's a blobby mess at that point. Oiling works, but defeats the purpose of using PETG since it reduces layer adhesion. Orange has been printing just fine, but I doubt I'll buy any more Amazon at this point.

TTTY3D Gold & Copper PLA, No issues, looks nice.

Hatchbox Wood PLA, No issues, smells nice, have only done a couple prints with it.

Sainsmart Clear PETG, No print issues, not the strongest layer adhesion.

ESun Olive Green PLA, It was underextruding, but may have been affected by the Amazon PETG from before making a mess of the hot end. I haven't tried since I replaced the PTFE tube and nozzle.
>>
>>1605605
the one I bought of that shit has fucking cuts in the spool, like the filament has been cut in several places just to fuck up any long running print job.

and I wonder if the guy that had an ender3 and swapped out the print nozzle and got better results was more due to inconsistent filament like that stuff
>>
can 3d printers print casts for low temperature melting point metals or is it too hot
>>
>>1605743
I seriously doubt it. Unless you mean casting patterns instead of the mold it's self.

Gonna have to use sand anon.
>>
>>1605741
Not unless you plan on using gallium. Your best bet it to create a master of the part you want to make, then use it as a sacrificial part for loss casting.
>>
>>1605743
no, but:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HVgPM1ojyLw
>>
>>1605750
Meant for
>>1605743
>>
>>1605605
It may or may not be the best priced filament in your area because of shipping, but the filaments.ca stuff I bought has been giving me really good results.
>>
God fucking damn it printers are so dumb.
>send over print data and leave the room
>accidentally forget filament sensor on the bed
>printer starts doing homing routine
>nozzle rams into the filament sensor and the stepper starts doing horrible nightmarrish screaming noises
>after a second the nozzle lifts up by 2cm and rams into the filament sensor again ant full speed
>and again
>and again
>finally manage to reach the power switch and shut it off
i hope nothing got damaged
i dread to think what would happen if that autistic printer was left alone ramming the fucking bed all day
>>
>>1605912
>Not transfering gcode via an SD card or USB drive
>>
>>1605915
Is this a joke?
I slice my model, then press a hotkey and it automatically gets sent to the printer and it starts printing
I can't even fathom the level of cuckery it takes to having to ferry gcode back an forth on an sd card
>>
>>1605917
If my computer crashes, the printer keeps going.
If my network dies, the printer keeps going.
In Cura, if you have an SD card or USB drive plugged in, it automatically opts to save on it and then asks if you want to eject it. Takes two seconds.
>>
>>1605920
>If my computer crashes, the printer keeps going.
>If my network dies, the printer keeps going.
So does my printer. I use octoprint as brains for the printer.
When i first got the printer i used the to use the sd card and then i tried octoprint and i would rather stop printing all together then ever go back to shitty sd card printing
>>
File: A4GFykICQAAXUKS[1].jpg (24 KB, 600x450)
24 KB
24 KB JPG
>>1605912
>God fucking damn it printers are so dumb.
Thank open source AND corporate faggots for that. The quality of 3d printers under 1000$ is abysimal, there is no incentive for an established player like Canon or HP to enter the hobbyist 3D printer scene, because every freetard faggot would start screaming MUH OPEN SOURCE, and every corporate faggot would start screaming MUH PROPRIETARY FILAMENT. After all to make a good 3d printer all you need is good mechanics (stiff frame, linear rails/shafts), good electronics (adequate motor controllers, sufficient power for extruders/heated bed) and good software (slicer, wifi connectivity, resumable prints, etc). All of these things are the bread and butter of paper printer manufacturers, yet nobody seems to be interested in making a cheap sub $500 printer that works. We are stuck with half working chinkshit for the foreseeable future, I guess.
>>
>>1605924
i own a $450 chink printer which came fully assembled and i had nothing but absolutely perfect results from it
i honestly don't understand why people throw away money on overpriced prusha tier shit
it's good if you need fringe stuff like multi fillament printer or massive print volume, but for standard printers the cost is not worth it
>>
>>1605927
>i own a $450 chink printer which came fully assembled and i had nothing but absolutely perfect results from it
Which printer?
>>
>>1605924
Fuck you. We were stuck with 10000$ up Stratasys machines with chipped filament for long enough and "Canon or HP" did NOT come to our aid.
>>
File: 1pymhv[1].jpg (13 KB, 500x301)
13 KB
13 KB JPG
>>1605929
>>
>>1605929
Honestly, they kinda pissed me off when they confiscated DefDist's printer because GUNS BAD.
Bet you they don't have said issues when Raytheon and the like come knocking with cash in hand.
>>
>spent £140 on mp select mini clone 2 years ago

>only issue was extruder clamp bearing exploding and clamp cracking, easily fixed and replaced

guess I'm just lucky
>>
>>1605920
>>1605922
>>1605917
>>1605915
I know it's a slight monetary step up but arguments like these just seem silly when you have a duet 2. No sneakernet, and none of the shortcomings of octopi. Funny that no one on 3dpg ever brings them up.
>>
File: 1536509488643.gif (1.86 MB, 228x170)
1.86 MB
1.86 MB GIF
>>1605920
>he ejects his sd card
>>
>>1605997
D-Do you not?
>>
>>1605997
If you don't eject it it could get corrupted
>>
>>1606001
the file could be corrupted if you removed the drive while you were still copying it over. Removing a drive that isn't in the process of writing does nothing.
>>
>>1605605
>amazonbasics black PLA
Really good results with this stuff.
>amazonbasics white PLA
Really shitty stuff. No bed adhesion, horrible surfacing, felt like chalk.
>3d Solutech silver metal PLA
Lousy bed adhesion, kinda gloppy but still good. Usually really cheap.
>3d Solutech white PLA
Really good stuff, very happy so far.
>Amazonbasics orange PETG
No complaints. Stringy but consistent.

That's all the filament I've tried so far. By the time I started printing Hatchbox's reviews had already taken a nosedive so I didn't bother.
>>
File: 1475080975508.jpg (88 KB, 660x495)
88 KB
88 KB JPG
>>1606000
>>1606001
I rip that bitch out the nanosecond the saving bar stops

in my 26 years on this planet I have never ejected removable media, and have never had a problem with a drive being corrupted

as long as it isn't being saved/read from why would it do anything?
>>
Where can you buy plastic pellets at a reasonable price, in modest quantities? I can find tons of suppliers from China, the prices are very cheap, but obviously they require orders in the 100s of Kg.
>>
>>1606054
>alibaba
>[material] pellets
>sort by min order less than X
>>
>>1606058
The alibaba website is broken shit, the mimimum order field does not even accept units, only adimensional numbers, lol. Anyway, I should've added that I want to buy from someone with some kind of reputation, not some random chink shop who just sells who knows what. Obviously I'm prepared to pay a premium for this, but I think it's worth the peace of mind.
>>
>>1606054
>plastic pellets
show us your filament machine
or your pellet extruder
>>
>>1606142
>show us your filament machine
>or your pellet extruder
L-lewd
>>
>>1605425
Do it eith a standart nozzle and coat the parts with something foodsafe.
You should be more concerned with growing mold or baceria in the pourous plastic than a few ppm lead that will never leach into the plant
>>
>>1606142
>>1606145
>BUT I EXTRUDE FROM THERE!
>Not right now you don't!
>>
File: 1548776525548.jpg (189 KB, 640x1307)
189 KB
189 KB JPG
Is there a great disparity in print quality between a lulzbot Mini and Ender 3? I have access to a Lulzbot at a makerspace, but the drive makes it a PITA to use in the first place, let alone experiment with print settings.
>>
>>1605743
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZvKtsrt9kTo&feature=youtu.be
>>
>>1605912
I'm glad the machines are dumb. you can trick them into doing all kinds of things that wouldn't be allowed if they were more restricted.

In your case it was the operator that was dumb. You can't start up a cnc machine with loose objects in the workplace and expect nothing bad to happen. you CAN trick a dumb machine into printing with loose objects on the bed and with a little knowledge and foreskin avoid crashes. a'la putting weights into recessed pockets, or magnets into slots, and having the printer print over them. I do it with rfid tags all the time and its awesome.
>>
>>1605922
so if your octoprint computer failed for some reason it would still stop your printer.

if having a dedicated pc for your printer is somehow less "cuckery" than using the printers mobo and a card reader, than I guess I'm a total cuck

octoprint has legitimate use cases that are awesome, but printing from a dedicated pc instead of an sd card to avoid "cuckery" is a stuuuupid reason.
>>
>>1606521
>so if your octoprint computer failed for some reason it would still stop your printer.
Hasn't happened in my experience unless it accidentally gets unplugged, and that's easily avoidable.
>octoprint has legitimate use cases that are awesome, but printing from a dedicated pc instead of an sd card to avoid "cuckery" is a stuuuupid reason.
Good thing no one is doing that.
>>
>>1606533
>>1605917
>>
>>1606519
>with a little knowledge and foreskin avoid crashes
This is my new 3D printing motto
>>
File: IMG_4281.jpg (1.58 MB, 3264x2448)
1.58 MB
1.58 MB JPG
Redesigned fan blades to be screwed on instead of glued on and reprinted in PETG instead of PLA. 0.3mm/30%. Quality is terrible, feels flimsy. Going to try 0.15mm/50%
>>
>>1606534
I'm going to take this opportunity to be facetious: how are you making your g-code? You inputting your 0s and 1s with a hot needle?

I suspect they're just sending the g-code from the computer a bit like how you send normal 2d prints to a normal printer.
>>
>>1606575
you should rotate the print so the blades print smoother and not the base, otherwise unless you planned on coating the blades extensively with something, the roughness is gunna destroy your efficiency
>>
File: 91h2Oc9.jpg (99 KB, 500x525)
99 KB
99 KB JPG
>>1605917
>anon one month ago
>>
For a couple of days now I have been wondering what the hell was wrong with my ender 3. I just got it a week ago. I indicated the bed as best to my ability and some prints would just not stick to the bed no matter what. I finally found out what the problem was, I didn't know being at the main info screen that you can adjust the FR on the fly, im guessing this is feed rate? It was well over %100 and might have bumped it and not knowing. Glad I found out.
Prints are laying down perfectly. Now the question is, can I lock the main screen so If I turn the knob nothing happens?
>>
File: ender3.jpg (143 KB, 1307x611)
143 KB
143 KB JPG
Almost there guys I just need lighting now and it will be perfect I don't wanna print that though I wanna get an actual light bar that plugs into socket any suggestions?
>>
>>1606621

no need to lock it just keep an eye out
>>
>>1606628
5050 led strip
>>
>>1606621
>If I turn the knob nothing happens
Try turning the knob. Nothing should happen already. Feed rate is adjusted in the Tune sub-menu, turning the knob while not in the menu doesn't do anything.
>>
>>1606645

for a few turn nothing happens but if i continue the FR increases. I'm in the process of updating firmware right now.
>>
>>1606603
Rotate it which way? I can't print it upright because it will have no strength when bent.
>The roughness is gunna destroy your efficiency
I was worried about this too but apparently the roughness helps the air stick to the blade, it's why golf balls are dimpled. Not sure if it also applies to airfoils though so I will try to get a better quality surface just in case.
>>
>>1606685
>airfoils
they're called aerofoisl upi fi,n giblomh american
>>
>>1606687
Scientific books always use the American spelling for everything.
>>
>>1606685
rotate it so the blade is flat, not upright.
>>
File: firefox has frozen.jpg (83 KB, 625x488)
83 KB
83 KB JPG
>>1606687
Did you have a stroke or something?
>>
I'm completely new to 3D printing.
>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 7-1-2019]
>Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 3
There are 3 versions of the Ender 3. I assume the glass plate on the 3X is a straight upgrade and is only $10 more anyway, but which would you guys recommend between the Ender 3X and the Ender 3 Pro? Is there any downside suffered by using a flexible removable bed instead of a solid glass bed?
>>
>>1606823
I personally prefer glass, but many anons don't. Flexible removable bed makes it easy to remove prints, but I've had great experience with first layer adhesion on glass, so that's my go-to.
>>
File: 6129585407_2d4609e003_o.jpg (355 KB, 1558x963)
355 KB
355 KB JPG
>>1605924

Even the expensive Stratasys FDM machines are not that great, and none of them are immune to user error like forgetting your junk on the bed and hitting Print like >>1605912 did. Pictured - the state of expensive Stratasys printers in 2011

>>1606224

J..Jigoo?
>>
>>1606853
Looks like a pretty shitty comparison.
Obviously they used a much larger nozzle size and layer height for the Stratasys.
>>
>>1605349
>JB weld is strong enough that you'd have a bitch of a time shaving it down after it's cured.

All those epoxies are water soluble before they completely harden. A damp paper towel once it gets tacky and starts to set but hasn't hardened is all you need to smooth out. It's a super useful trick.
>>
>>1606696
The blade can't be laid flat, it's twisted.
>>
>>1605927
If you see a no-name Chinese product for $450 and a brand name western product for $900 most will believe the latter will be better quality.
>>1606853
Are you sure the layer height isn't different?
>>1606872
JB weld is shit https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nEgYfLE-RC4
>>
>>1606878
>If you see a no-name Chinese product for $450 and a brand name western product for $900
they are both completely identical but the $900 has addidas or nike or sony printed on it
>>
>>1606856
>>1606878

Yeah it's not an ideal comparison, the layer height looks different. Checking the spec sheet from Stratasys's official website it says:

>Layer Thickness:
>uPrint SE: .254 mm (.010 in)
>uPrint SE Plus: .254 mm (.010 in) or .330 mm (.013 in)

So it's possible that the software doesn't really allow you to go any lower.
>>
>>1606885
I wear adidas because I want to look cool
>>
>>1606519
>with a little knowledge and foreskin
top kek
That's going in the title for the next thread.
>>
>>1606932

With a little knoledge and foreskin anything is possible
>>
File: IMG_4288.jpg (1.56 MB, 3264x2448)
1.56 MB
1.56 MB JPG
At 0.15mm/60% the surface quality looks better already.

I might have the central hub printed in carbon fibre by a company so that I can market it as "carbon core technology" that sounds badass. But it can't just be meme words, so long as it's infused in nylon it's serious right?
>>
>>1606689
Not the 'international editions' ;)
>>
>>1606934
>tfw dumb and cut
>>
File: Clipboard01.jpg (31 KB, 792x761)
31 KB
31 KB JPG
I am making a hot swap adapter hole thing that will be attached to my extruder head ,so i can simply print out adapters for things like sharpies or mill motors and then easily attach or detach them.
Basically it will all work by inserting a square peg into a square hole, super simple, but how do i prevent any wiggle while still making it easy to pull the thing out?
>>
I was looking at upgrades for the ender 3, mostly the extruder upgrades. i looked up the aluminum one that comes in anodized red and then looked at the more expensive ones like https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/bondtech-bmg-extruder-175/sk/M88WAUL2?rcode=GAT9HR&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgZPbi6-M4gIVkxx9Ch2cpQ7UEAQYCSABEgJBhPD_BwE

You can find them around $80. Strangely though when I go look at review videos where they compare the stock version to the $80!!! version, the print quality outcome on teh stock is way better. This seems to be the case for a lot of these "upgrades", you pay more, sometimes a lot more and get shittier print qualities, why? are they just not setup right? some of these videos are by people who seem to know what they are doing, they have thousands of subscribers and the stock version print outcome a lot of the times looks better. explain this shit
>>
>>1606979
That could also just be a question of tweaking settings.
I'm getting perfectly adequate results with my 3nder, so I don't feel the need to upgrade the hotend unless I want to print in some sort of material that the stock one can't do.
>>
>>1605743
Yes. You can print a High Temp resin on the Form 2 and directly cast pewter. I've done it.
>>
>>1606975
>but how do i prevent any wiggle while still making it easy to pull the thing out?

Unless you have a milling machine and/or surface grinder, you don't. That design isn't going to work all that well without tolerances and surface finishes better than you can get with a printer.

I am assuming, however, that you want the connection to repeat well. If not, then just give the thing a degree or so of taper and sand the mating surfaces smooth. It's still not a great way of doing it, but it's simple and should work.
>>
>>1606975

You iterate through a few versions by doing minor adjustments to the gap between the two parts until you land on something with the right tightness. It's not elegant but it works. I've done something like this to have the part cooling fan removeable, but i used a dovetail shape that slides in instead of a square peg/hole
>>
>>1606975
Add a hole and use a screw
boom done
>>
File: Clipboard02.jpg (45 KB, 652x536)
45 KB
45 KB JPG
I think this will work pretty well. It has a hole for stability, and another leg on the side with an m5 screw hole so the screw will smash push the leg against the other part making it completely fixed
>>
>>1607001
Alternatively, you could used a keyed shaft and a C clip.
>>
>>1607006
Is it even possible to key pla without it being absolute garbage that breaks after screwing something in more than 3 times?
>>
>>1607010
Typically, when you make a key for something, you make the key the weakpoint, so that way you only need to replace the key and not the other, more expensive, parts.
>>
>>1606979
get the trianglelabs titan clone from ali (ender 3 edition)
20$
the stock apparently is shit as you cannot preload the spring and this shows on faster extrusion.
Most aluminium extruders cant preload either, they are pure rice
>are they just not setup right?
likely
>>
>>1606979
Any printer that isn't using a bowden extruder is nothing more than a bad joke.
>>
File: gap.png (541 KB, 1747x977)
541 KB
541 KB PNG
I have been getting this issue with Cura and I am not sure what to google to find a solution. The 3d Model looks fine, but whenever I made the Gcode there are these really thin gaps that mess up the print. Anyone know how to get rid of them?
>>
File: 20190508_212800.jpg (369 KB, 900x1200)
369 KB
369 KB JPG
It was going smoothly making a way to mount these minigun barrels to a plaque until the guy that asked me to make them gobbed on a ton of shitty paint and ruined all the tight tolerances I measured out right before assembly.
>>
>>1607038
It's not a water-tight mesh, so it's treating the "inside" surface as two-sided. You will probably need to weld some of the vertices together to repair the STL in meshlab.
>>
>>1607036
Direct drive is best. Bowden a shit
>>
They quoted me 150 for the 100mm x 48mm hub in carbon fibre
>>
>>1607040
I mean, the paint isn't going to be visible in the holes. At worst you may need to touch up the corners after assembly.
>>
File: layer cake.jpg (37 KB, 649x339)
37 KB
37 KB JPG
>>1605319
Guys how do i add z hop after every layer? But layer included layers of another objects on plate.
>>
>>1607068
What are you using? Cura, Slic3r, etc?
>>
>>1607074
none of your fucking businmess
>>
>>1607085
Okay, enjoy not getting helpful replies.
>>
>>1607085
>>
>>1607068
I interpolate the polymernals across the plane of the bed. You do interpolate your polymernals, right anon?
>>
>>1607068
1. Open GCODE in Notepad
2. Add a z-hop after every layer
3. ???
4. Profit!
>>
>>1607074
>businmess
this dipshit isnt me, i use cura slic3r is to autistic for me.
>>1607089
>>
>>1607099

>>1607089
THX for reply ppl, ok z hop is easy to add
>>
>>1607109
I'm using Cura 4. Under the "Travel" tab, there's "Z Hop When Retracted". and under the "Material" tab there's "Retracted at Layer Change".
>>
>>1607118
>"Retract* at Layer Change"
>>
>>1607099
How the hell do i write this in one line in notepad?
Notepad doesnt let me replace something that require lower line like
G1 Zxx
G1 Z-xx
Puting both inline not working.
>>
>>1607119
>"Retract* at Layer Change"
Dont see this in 2.6.2 will check 4v
>>
>>1607119
>"Retract* at Layer Change"
It looks like not responding for that setting. Just normal z move up. No lift and back
>>
>>1607141
Did you enable both it and "Z Hop When Retracted", though?
>>
>>1606929
We use the uPrint machines at work. I print on them every now and then; the interface that they provide is minimal for a slicer. They let you choose between two layer heights on the plus model, otherwise it's a single height. No options for infill percentage other than 'sparse' 'dense' 'solid'. The print beds aren't reusable; every time you print, you use a new ABS textured bed. The bed has to be recycled when you're done with a print; you won't get reliable layer adhesion again and can't guarantee the next incoming print will work. Beds cost like $5 each or something laughable.

The attraction for these to businesses are two things: reliability and speed. By limiting the amount of settings you can adjust, you can rest assured any engineer that submits a print through the slicer will receive that part they wanted in the amount of time the program says it will take to print, and they print relatively quickly by restricting to large nozzle/layer heights. When I print to the uPrint farm, I'm sitting at my desk which is a 5 minute walk from the printers. I can check when it's done and go pop the part in the ultrasonic cleaner and get rid of the supports. Compare this with a hobbyist one, where we get endless questions about bed adhesion, temperature for the material, enclosures, slicer settings, etc. I don't think about that at all at work. I don't think about temperature of the nozzle at work. I don't worry about retraction at work. I don't have to worry if there's a draft or a fan's on at work. The machine does not bother the engineer and politely spits out parts that help the company make money in a reliable fashion, and that's an easy sell to managers and accountants when deciding budgets versus the $300 Chinese maintenance/IT network integration nightmare.
>>
>>1607143
Yea i gues it worked now.
But it looks like it does it between support and normal obj layers instead making full layer with support and then z hop, its retarded or i am??
>>
>>1607143
>>1607099
How come when i write in single line
G1/0 X00.000 Y00.000 it works,
but when do i G1 Z5.000 Z0.000 (like z hop) then it isnt?
This whould totally fix my problem. But it need to be splited In 2 instuctions like
G1
G2
Only then it works.
I cant make in windows notepad something like that.
>>
>>1607204
probably because you're issuing 2 of the same axis to the command.
>>
>>1607204
What would you do if you were told to turn your head both left and right at the same time?
>>
>>1607001
>>1606975
Just use Fusion 360, it's so much simpler than dicking around in Blender for things like this, and I'm speaking from experience here
>>
Didn't see there was a new thread, so reposting

Why are most methods of lighting print beds I see recently over the top? In my experience, almost every single time, they're just about useless because they blind you and cast a huge shadow over the print itself because the extruder and carriage is in the way. Has nobody really made something better than this for newer printers? I remember LED rings used to be used a lot, what happened to them?

inb4 "make your own"; that's not an answer to my question.

>>1607079
Sort of, but if you offset the light a few cm and/or add a diffuser it can still light up the print without it being too bright
>>
>>1607218
Its not same time. One after the second.
>>
Fug, all my prints are fine, but every time i need to print supports directly on the bed they break off and i have to use a raft
But i guess not having to use any cucky adhesive or tape is worth it since i'm printing on glass
>>
>>1607099
>1. Open GCODE in Notepad
>2. Add a z-hop after every layer
>3. ???
>4. Profit!
How is this suppose to work when Znnn just make it back always on same position? Z position is increasing.
>>
>>1607345
In GCode, that's exactly what you did.
>>
>>1607292
I use blender for game development an am quite experienced with it.
It would not be worth my time to learn another 3d modeling program just to make a 3d print model from time to time
>>
What's the proper start gcode for unified bed leveling? I want it to load the mesh from EEPROM and just do the 3-point level but it just says "Error: Probing failed" and stops OctoPrint after doing it.

G28 ; home all axes
G29 A ; turn on UBL
G29 L1 ; load mesh
G29 J ; 3 point level
>>
>>1607357
just gluestick if you absolutely need tiny part adhesion lmao the answer is right there and rafts ain't it
>>
File: IMG_20190509_162742.jpg (297 KB, 1536x2048)
297 KB
297 KB JPG
>>1607001
Nice. It sits there as if it was all a single piece. This will work great even with the milling motors. it's pretty sturdy
>>
This z hop in cura 4 is not working! I tried all options and its just jumping like reatard at first 2 layers ant then nothing.
>>
Is buying simplify3D worth the $150? Is it better than cura/slic3r?
>>
>>1607564
No. I bought it and end up using slic3r anyways.
>>
>>1607564
No, just pirate it.
>>
>>1607601
Got a link?
>>
>>1607564
>buying Simplify3D ever
Hahahaha
>>
File: IMG_20190509_152326.jpg (316 KB, 963x677)
316 KB
316 KB JPG
I have found the next big project that I want to start and never finish
>>
So, how required is it to coat a PLA print with primer before using acrylic paint on it?
I tested a drop of paint directly on an old failed print and it just seems under the top layer, highlighting the grain of the filament.
>>
>>1607660
seeps* under
>>
File: siy.gif (56 KB, 464x371)
56 KB
56 KB GIF
>>1607658
Finally some use for my Prusa and Make(TM) 3D printing guides.
>>
File: Hot-Toys-Nano-Gauntlet-02.jpg (550 KB, 1166x1749)
550 KB
550 KB JPG
>>1607664
I've been outed as a soiboi, how will I ever recover?
>>
File: skeet.jpg (40 KB, 640x428)
40 KB
40 KB JPG
>>1607668
Go skeet shooting?
>>
>>1607669
skeet surfing is better
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=af9N7UhTMA8
>>
File: bb.jpg (1.96 MB, 4160x3120)
1.96 MB
1.96 MB JPG
>>1607658
do it.
>>
>>1605605
Solutech, Sunlu PLA+, and ESun PLA+ are all brands Ive never had issues with. Esun comes in very matte colors, and Sunlu all have a slight silk sheen to them. Just avoid Sunlu's silver if youre actually wanting silver, its more of a shiny gray.
>>
>>1607428
nevermind, one of my swiss clips was blocking the nozzle when it did the 3-point level but not the UBL mesh
>>
I have a file with gcode from a slicer and i need to change it so it works like this:

basically i move the printer head by hand to a position on X Y Z i want, and when i start the print i want printer to consider that position to be as if it was homed at 0 0 0

So to put it more simply if the gcode says "move to the right by 2cm" it moves 2 cm from that position i left it in
>>
>>1607689
https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G92:_Set_Position
>>
>>1607690
So if i run it without parameters it set's whatever position it is currently in as 0 0 0 ?
Does that last only during that one print or until the printer reboots?
>>
>>1607693
>So if i run it without parameters it set's whatever position it is currently in as 0 0 0 ?
Yes.
>Does that last only during that one print or until the printer reboots?
Depends on the printer/firmware. Probably won't remember.
>>
File: dbwwryBw63.jpg (213 KB, 1477x1007)
213 KB
213 KB JPG
>>1607607
It's on the pirate bay. I use it, pirated it, works fine, have never bothered to learn cura but I'm sure at some point in the future I'll give it a shot.
>>
I'm working on an e3d v6 adapter. It's a two part clamp design. Both parts have a half circle that fits around the top of the heat sink. One side bolts to the print head, and the other has screws running through it into the first part, and they sandwich the v6 between them. It works well and fits tightly. The screws just thread into the plastic, which I'll fix eventually, but it holds firmly for now. I printed it in PLA, 20% infill. The e3d customer support guy said the heatsink shouldn't pass 40C with the fan on, and that a PLA adapter would be fine. When I heat it up, however, the v6 is able to wobble a bit. When I cool it down I don't see any melting. I'm still working out where the wobble is coming from; could be the clamp screws loosening, the mounting screws loosening, or the clamp surface itself shrinking. I could use some guidance here though. I'm not entirely sure how PLA behaves when it comes to slight heat increases, so I'm not sure where I should be looking, or how I can improve my design. I am wondering if I can design the offending feature to be oversized so that when it shrinks (assuming that's the issue) it will fit, and then I can just warm it up before installing it. If my fundamental issue using PLA that's fine; I just need to get it working for a few weeks, and then I can focus on printing an adapter with a better material, although raising the printing temp more to do that will be tricky. I can use shims for now, and if I need to make a slight change to the adapter and reprint it, maybe with nutserts thst cam be tightened or something, that's fine too. I've noticed a lot of designs for this use a U-shaped fixture and a straight piece that clamps it. Would that be better?
>>
>>1607728
I forgot to mention that the wobble goes away when it cools, so no or very little plastic deformation is going on. Also sorry for the long post.
>>
is a glass bed a must?
>>
>>1607755

I should add that im kind of getting tired of indicating this bed, I understand I need to do this after every print, but you just know the bed is never really flat, so will the glass bed help with that?
>>
>>1607759
You can buy sheets of borisilicate glass that are tested/proven to be +/- 0.01mm or less corner to corner. Buying cheap shit like those mirror tiles works temporarily but a mirror isnt made to be heated and cooled a few dozen times a week so it will eventually conform to the bed because of those alligator clips we use to attach them. Borosilicate does not warp from heat by design so it shouldnt do that, though Ive heard it does. I bought a $50 piece of glass from Lulzbot for my CR-10 and thus far is doesnt appear to be doing anything of that sort after more than a year on the printer.
>>
>>1607762

I went ahead and bought one from gulfcoast robotics. I'm sure it's the bed because when I print parts right in the middle it comes out find but as soon as i wanna use more surface if i don't indicate it almost perfectly it comes out all fucked up. It's diminishing returns, it was working fine but only after a little use i know its not flat. hopefully glass bed will help.
>>
>>1607769
>>1607762

I bought this one

https://gulfcoast-robotics.com/products/borosilicate-glass-for-the-creality-ender-3-4mm-thick-w-rounded-edges
>>
>>1607363
Can you really not wrap your head around grade school maths? Go look at how GCode is structured and written, it should be obvious when looking at command names and descriptions
>>
>>1607755
I switched from glass bed to fr4 epoxy sheet. Never looked back. No glue no hairspray and dirt cheap provided you have a heated bed.
>>
>>1607773
>22 bucks
I got one cut by a gumpy grandpa in a glass shop for $3
>>
>>1607890
Don't use regular glass, it's gonna break after a while due to thermal stress.
>>
>>1607706
>pirated it
It's greedy jewcunts like you why the dyi 3d market is just a footnote in the industry
if even 30% of hobbyists paid for 3d related software instead of pirating it, we would have dyi replicators by now
>>
>>1607915
>paying for software that is inferior to free alternatives
>>
>>1607915
>we would have dyi replicators by now

1000x this. If you thieves would pay for software you could print an entire RepRap including ball bearings, stepper motors, and ICs for free using nothing but inexpensive filament. But no, we can't have nice things.
>>
>>1607895
I've been using a piece of regular 3.75mm thick glass i found in the basement for like 2 years and its still fine
>>
>>1607915
I bet he didn't even mortgage his house to pay for a SolidWorks subscription. What a fucking cheapskate rube kikenigger.
>>
File: think_before_you_act.jpg (130 KB, 1099x1003)
130 KB
130 KB JPG
>>1607915
>dyi
>dyi
>>
>>1608010
If you pirate software then DYI (do yourself in)
>>
If rafts fix whatever i'm trying to print does that mean my bed is fucked?
>>
>>1608023
Depends.
Could just be that your Z0 isn't where it needs to be for adhesion (Especially likely if the part has very little contact with the plate). Or maybe you need to adjust the temperature of the plate and/or nozzle.
I almost exclusively use skirts. If I see the skirt not stick properly or is visibly thinner than it should be in any given location I move up/down (respectively) that specific corner by a tiny little amount and restart the print as many times as necessary. A shitty foundation will only cause issues and this becomes more and more of an issue the taller the part gets.
>>
File: 20190510_082710.jpg (376 KB, 900x1200)
376 KB
376 KB JPG
I got tired of all the random extrusion problems on my I3+ and drank the orange kool aid.
>>
>>1608026

are there any videos on setting up the z stop? I can't tell whether the place I put it is the right height or not. I don't know what happened. It was printing fine and this one particular print had roughness on one of the layers, it almost sounded like it was dragging but when I indicated the bed on the corners i did it how i always used to do it and it would be fine. ill figure it out just gonna take time, which im starting to find out that 3d printing is not always easy.
>>
>>1608029
The height of the Z-stop dictates the Z0.
On my printer (Ender 3), the Z-stop is mounted to a little plastic piece on the left side of the gantry and it has a little ledge that is supposed to rest on the base extrusion. However, when I went to set the bed height, even with the bed leveling knobs completely loose, it was still printing too far away from the bed to get proper adhesion. The way I resolved it was clipping off the little ledge on the Z-stop's plastic piece and mounting it lower on the gantry extrusion. Ideally, you want the springs under the bed to have a good amount of tension on them when leveled so that it minimizes the dip when it moves the Y axis up or down (Kinda like how the rear suspension of a car compresses when you hit the gas and vice versa when braking).
Then, for the fine tuning, I made a print which covers pretty much the entire outer edge of the bed (I just made a rectangular pyramid to print in vase mode) and then watched very carefully as it walked across the X and Y axis. If it didn't adhere at a corner, moving the bed up a bit and if it looked underextruded lowering it down just a bit. After you have that worked out, tighten down some lock washers under the bed leveling knobs and you're good.
Keep in mind, however, that if one corner is too high or too low, the distance between the Z0 and the bed will get worse and worse the further away from the center of the bed you go, so try to print in the center of the bed as much as possible (Printing multiple parts at a time can cause issues when G0'ing from one to the other, anyway).

Hope that helps.
>>
>>1608033
>lock washers
Lock nuts. derp.
>>
>>1608033

Thanks anon for the info this will help later after im done printing this.
>>
>>1608037
Make sure to post results!
>>
>>1608037

We want to see how it turns out!
>>
File: stop.jpg (161 KB, 1282x731)
161 KB
161 KB JPG
>>1608066
>>1608088

Yea that did the trick, it was the z stop. I guess the bed was moving while printing, it's a lot more rigid now.
>>
>>1608094
Nice print!
Glad I was of help. :D
>>
>>1607564
>Simplify3D
>"Only" $150.
>Until the next big update.
>Then it's another $150.
Anon don't support that. Just don't.
>>
>>1607915

Simplify 3D is 150 dollars, that's 50 dollars less than when I spent on my printer. The software hasn't been updated with any appreciable features in ages, and the next release is going to be a paid upgrade for who knows what. It lacks many features that cura and slic3r both have, I only use it because I like the interface.
>>
Question: How do people get away with selling models on cgtrader for example that are on tv shows like Game of Thrones, or marvel movies? That can't be legal can it? How are they able to sell said models. Granted they built the model themselves but still, characters like he-man for example must be copyrighted but nothing happens. The same with tshirt websites, etc.
>>
>>1608099
What do you like about the interface vs the others? Never used it, but I've done UI work and crap.
>>
>>1608101
Nobody cares about small potatoes and squeezing pennies out of them
>>
>>1608108
I really couldn't get into the huge amount of drop down and collapsing menus that cura had, and also really enjoy the g-code visualization in Simplify. I also really like the supports it offers, I've been able to tune it to give great supports that don't stick and leave little to no cleanup behind, but I'm sure enough time in cura could give the same results.

Again, didn't pay for it and never will.
>>
File: 3dp first testcubes.jpg (3.88 MB, 6260x5283)
3.88 MB
3.88 MB JPG
>>1606684
So, I finally printed some stuff. Well.
Pic related are my very first prints. I got this test model
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2166102
and Cura, and just did some prints with the mini spool that came with the Ender 3 (I got a full 1 kg one too).
It seems that the bottom half is no problem at all, but in general the wall thicness and the line width is thinner than expected. Also the top and bottom, or more or less all z-axis layers don't form a closed surface at all.
Before going into details and posting all different settings I tried; Anything obvious I missed? Just shitty filament? Increase feed for thicker lines? More than 20% infill? Infill pattern? 200/60°C okay for PLA?
>>
>>1608122

Looks very underextrudy to me, did you calibrate the extruder?
>>
>>1608125
>did you calibrate the extruder?
Hmm, of course no!
So, I guess I just need to extrude a bit more filament?
>>
>>1608122
Might be too low a nozzle temp. Try bumping it up 3 or 4 degrees.
>>
>>1608127

Yes, it's drizzling very little so the walls are full of holes. Google "Triffid's guide" on how to do the calibration procedure and set your Esteps correctly.
>>
>>1608122
Is your slicer set for 1.75mm filament width or 2.85?
>>
File: 3dp skinny cube.jpg (3.24 MB, 3264x3160)
3.24 MB
3.24 MB JPG
>>1608125
>>1608127
>>1608129
Just finished, 110% cura material flow setting.
Looks still really skinny as fuck.
>"Triffid's guide"
thx, will report back...
>>1608131
>1.75mm filament width or 2.85?
1.75mm, I checked the filament and printer presets.
>>
>>1608133

There's an extrusion multiplier setting in Slic3r, as far as i remember Cura had one too. Not sure what the difference between it and "flow" was, but it wasn't the same
>>
File: Cura Flow option.png (273 KB, 1104x621)
273 KB
273 KB PNG
>>1608135
Looks like the same in Cura?
However, trying Slic3r soon.
>>
>>1608133
If the temp is too low, increasing the rate you push the plastic in will just increase pressure in the nozzle. Eventually, it'll just start grinding up the filament instead of pushing it in.
Try adjusting temp.
>>
>>1608137

Thought of one more thing - have you set the nozzle diameter correctly? If it thinks it's smaller than it actually is, it will extrude less
>>
File: lantern.jpg (99 KB, 553x814)
99 KB
99 KB JPG
just need lights now.
>>
File: 3dp skirt.jpg (1.53 MB, 3264x1836)
1.53 MB
1.53 MB JPG
oh, and no adhesion problem so far. just level the fucking bad, and everything is fine.
>>1608138
T is 200°C. Will try a bit more. And the filament is white, maybe this is an issue too.
>>1608139
yes, nozzle diameter is set at 0.4.
>>
>>1608142
That looks fucking fantastic!
You going to use one of those LED candle things they make for pumpkins?
>>
>>1608146

if i can find battery operated on amazon that has candle mode or something where the lights flicker that would be pretty sweet.
>>
>>1608148
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vpK9beBN98s find one of these and rip it out of its housing
>>
>>1608146
>LED candle

okay now i see what you're saying, that is pretty badass. i wonder if they sell glass by the diameter.
>>
>>1608122
Check your nozzle, it may be fucked. I've had similar experiences with nozzle issues before, clogged or a burr present.
>>
File: 3dp stairs.jpg (1.72 MB, 3069x1726)
1.72 MB
1.72 MB JPG
Esteps / mm, from left to right:
93, 98, 105, 115
hmm
The fill pattern still looks too thin, but the walls are getting too thick. Maybe it is a slicer problem? Or the filament? Or the 25 °C air temp? (print bed is still 60 °C).
Time to try slic3r...
(test model: 20 mm width, step depth 4 mm, step height 2 mm)
>>1608189
>Check your nozzle
I'm not sure how. 0.4 is a bit small, can not check this at home.
>>
>>1608230
Lookup how to do a coldpull, might have a partial clog in the nozzle.
>>
>>1608027
Enjoy printing. The only "improvement" I made to mine that it actually needed was swapping out the knob; I've never liked their design and mine caught on the Reset tab consistently.
>>
File: tuuubes.jpg (28 KB, 400x335)
28 KB
28 KB JPG
>>1608158
Dunno about glass, but acrylic for sure. These guys are reasonably cheap, or you can look something up on McMaster-Carr.

https://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/plastic_rods_tubes_shapes under "Clear Cast Acrylic Tubing"
>>
File: artisankeycaps.jpg (409 KB, 900x850)
409 KB
409 KB JPG
Anyone have or seen some channer-face / ragecomics clay moulds or models to make some dank channer keycaps? My keyboard is strangely and sorely missing some.
>>
>>1608230
>Esteps / mm, from left to right:
>93, 98, 105, 115
Why are you adjusting your esteps like this? You need to calculate it properly.

Check the hobbed gear in the extruder isn't fouled up with ground plastic.
Check the filament isn't snagging on the extruder housing, if it doesn't have direct line of entry it will rub against the plastic housing and eventually wear a grove that will cause snags. Consider upgrading to an aluminium extruder housing or a 3D printed filament guide.
Remove the bowden coupler from the extruder, cut the filament flush with the extruder housing, extrude 100mm and measure exactly how much now sticks out from the extruder housing (use calipers). Use the following calculation:
Current esteps / (extruded length/100)
Plug that into your printer and do the test again on fresh filament (never extrude the same piece twice, it'll only give you bad measurements).
When you are extruding exactly 100mm on command, reassemble your printer.

In cura, set your flow back to 100% (you should only be playing with this to tweak quality after you have everything else dialled in and printing correctly).
CHECK THAT YOU FILAMENT PROFILE IS SET AT 1.75mm (not 2.85) and that you nozzle diameter is correctly set (it sounds like it already is).

If the problem still isn't fixed after fully calibrating you machine, then it's a partial clog.
Perform a cold pull to clear the nozzle, or as I do, just throw the thing away and install a new one since they're too damn cheap for me to want to fuck around with them.
Print an inline filament cleaner (e.g. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3055147 and a bit of sponge).
Enjoy you properly calibrated 3D printer.
>>
File: IMG_20190511_002637.jpg (2.2 MB, 3264x2448)
2.2 MB
2.2 MB JPG
>>1608375
>You need to calculate it properly.
Yeah it was late and I just tried some bullshit.
>>1608375
>cut the filament flush with the extruder housing, extrude 100mm and measure exactly how much now sticks out
Yes, I should have done this in the first place, brb...
If the prints are still shit with the calibrated Esteps and standard settings (standard PLA profile, 1.75mm, 200°C/60°C, 100% feed) I will take a look at the nozzle. A spare one was included with the printer.
>>
I have a 2cm deep hole with 3mm diameter and infill in it. How do i get the infill cunt out of there?
>>
>>1608329
I tried printing some but my .4 nozzle is just too big for any finer detail so the keys look meh in the end
>>
>>1608014
thanks for the chuckle
>>
File: 3dp factory cut.jpg (2.31 MB, 2800x3150)
2.31 MB
2.31 MB JPG
>>1608394
goddammit.
>>
>>1608027
when did you order yours?
i want the textured build plate but it is out for the last 6 months now
>>
>>1608027
Funny. My chinky printer is made entirely out of metal, no shitty 3d printed parts, costs 5 times less than prusa and prints just as good
But it's good you decided to donate to prusa research since big chunk of that money goes into the research they do so that the advancements they make can be copied by chinks for free and allow me to buy them for a fraction of the price
>>
>>1608411
Standard Esteps of 93 were a bit too low, 95.09 now feeds 10.00mm.
Extruder calibrated, bowden tube cuts fixed, mounted new nozzle, testing now again...
>>
>>1608434
>10.00mm.
I mean 100.00mm. Duh...
>>
>>1608411
Yeah that's pretty bad. The best way to seat the nozzle (once cut flush) is:
Remove bowden tube from hot end.
Screw in nozzle finger tight, then back a quarter turn.
Insert bowden tube right up to the nozzle.
Heat up hot end to 230"C.
Tighten nozzle.
>>
File: 3dp this is fine.jpg (1.81 MB, 2800x3150)
1.81 MB
1.81 MB JPG
>>1608122
>>1608133
>>1608230
>>1608375
Thx anon, I guess I fixed my shit!
>>1608411
>>1608434
This is fine!
>>1608483
Yep, I disassembled the shit put it correctly back together.
>>
File: IMG_5566.jpg (1.5 MB, 3264x2448)
1.5 MB
1.5 MB JPG
I know it's mostly FDM in here, but I wanted to share a little warthog I printed SLA yesterday for my wargaming stuff and painted up. I've never done anything this tiny before. 16mm long. It would sit on the face of a penny.
>>
>>1608487
Looking much better. Make sure your belts are tight.

My advice for print settings (these are optional and down to preference):
In cura, set all your accelerations to 300.
Set all your jerks to 5.
Print at 45mm/s.
Make sure coasting is enabled.
Full part cooling fan.

The ender 3 (and the CR-10S that I have) has shitty part cooling fans (and ducts) on the stock model. There's no need to rush into it right now, but for the future consider getting a 5015 blower fan and 200uf capacitor (wired in parallel) and mounting them with a petsfang. Doing so will dramatically increase the quality of your overhangs and bridges.
>>
Ender 3 rollers are 625ZZ, right?
>>
>>1605423
Why not use a proper CAD program ;^)
>>
File: 1546987546876.webm (1.82 MB, 1280x720)
1.82 MB
1.82 MB WEBM
>>1608508
>>
>>1608511
That would take 5 seconds in SW...
>>
>>1608514
Maybe not for that anon. Look at how fucking slow they are.
>>
>>1608394
That doesnt look .4 to me
More like .8
>>
>>1608531
retard
>>
>>1607684
I ordered a solutech brand since it was cheaper for me of the others you suggested.
>>
>>1608538
Care to elaborate?
>>
>>1608551
>i can tell a .4mm diameter hole from a .8mm one by eye in a jpeg photograph with no established scale
>>
>>1608556
>no established scale
Theres a caliper on the pic, nozzle hex is usually the same size.
It would seem you are the retard...
>>
File: 3dp surface ironing.jpg (1.82 MB, 2800x3150)
1.82 MB
1.82 MB JPG
>>1608495
>print settings
Much smoother with the limited acceleration and jerk!
I tried surface ironing, makes a really nice finish.
>>1608495
>shitty part cooling fans
Indeed, they will be replaced soon. Just too small and too noisy.
>>
File: grug.png (115 KB, 576x461)
115 KB
115 KB PNG
>>1608558
>what is an established scale
>i can eyeball measurements by proxy based on other eyeballed measurements
>>
.4mm is less than 16 thou...
>>
>>1608566
>>i can eyeball measurements
Im sorry that you dont have engineering experience
Nor trolling...
>>
Speaking about nozzles and shit; what I spare parts should I stock?
I thought of trying a simple brass nozzle set (0.2 to 0.8mm or so), getting more filament, better cooling fans and maybe a better extruder.
>>
>>1608573
>i am an engineer
>you can tell by the way i don't use apostrophies and am 16 years old
>>
>>1608577
He's not wrong, though. Dimensions are only as accurate as the measuring tool and I somehow doubt your face is an optical comparator.
>>
File: Textured buildplate.jpg (152 KB, 1280x720)
152 KB
152 KB JPG
>>1608418
Don't bother with the textured build plate unless you really, really need it - the texture it has is very coarse and unless you're specifically going for that look, doesn't look very good (based on the parts that came in the Prusa kit, at least). Nobody knows when it'll be in stock, either, so if you're on the fence just get the printer now and the buildplate later
>>
>>1608579
.8 is literally twice as much as .4, they're easy to distinguish by eye measure. Now, .4 to .6 or .25 is another matter.
>>
>>1608491
Nice job. Where'd you get the model from? Doesn't seem to be on Thingiverse, all the versions there don't have bases.

I've always wanted to print and paint some of the ships from the series and have a setup with lights or some such, but unfortunately looks like most of the stuff I see is either simply terrible modeled or relies on textures/normal maps way too much to be of use when printed.
>>
>>1608585
>.8 is literally twice as much as .4, they're easy to distinguish by eye measure.
Maybe if you have them side by side, but when there's only one in the photo? Not a chance.
>>
>>1608588
I might just have a photographic memory or something, but I've changed enough nozzles that I can easily identify the sizes I use, and that includes if a picture of a nozzle is clearly twice as big as what I'm used to. These E3D nozzles, even across different producers and Chinese clones, look pretty damn similar, and the nozzle hole in contrast to the hex nut actually is something you can tell by.
I can't say if a picture of a .4 nozzle is .3, .4 or .5, but I can tell you that it isn't .25 or .8.
>>
File: IMG_5673.jpg (168 KB, 1076x665)
168 KB
168 KB JPG
>>1608587
>Where'd you get the model from?
It's just a composite I put together from other free stuff. The Warthog is the Halo 4 or 5 rip I think that somebody converted for FDM printing. The Spartan is the plain unrigged Halo 2 Master Chief model. And the base is some free 40k base I had to redo the normals and some bits on to actually work. On the hog, I had to add some extra pieces, pose things and make some really fine stuff thicker for 6mm scale.

I know your pain on the ships. I was hoping there was a good free Halo Pelican around somewhere but I haven't had any luck. I can't even find a good Gunstar from Last Starfighter that didn't have some jackass weld all the panels closed on it and screw up the radiators.
>>
File: doubt.png (26 KB, 132x132)
26 KB
26 KB PNG
>>1608590
>>
Can anyone tell me why my printer underextrudes just small details or walls of smaller areas? Currently running a square print with four 4mm circles,1 in each corner. The only part its underextruding is the small circles, all other walls are perfect. Printing at 40mm/s, 5mm retraction at 60mm/s, no combing or coasting.
>>
>>1608596
horizontal compensation setting in cura?
>>
>>1608597
Set at 0mm, Ive never even touched that setting and this is the first time Ive heard of it?
>>
>>1608600
Try increasing it by 0.10 mm, usually have to do that when I print minis. Will make part fits impossible if there isn't significant slop, though.

Also be sure to look at the visualization of your g-code before you save and print, it is going to save you a lot of wasted filament from bad prints, because what you see will usually be what you get.
>>
>>1608495
>5015 wired with capacitors
I mean, I guess but I just bought the 24v version of the 5015 and gave it the ol chop n swap
>>
>>1608626
Well these particular designs depend on the holes being accurate. Funny enough I increased the temperature of my hotend to 215 and that seemed to fix the problem for now.
>>
>>1608495
>5015 wired with capacitors
you can just use FAN_SOFT_PWM in marlin
>>
>>1608495
>5015 wired with capacitors
https://youtu.be/azm1c55JOxk?t=7m10s
>>
File: _SAW5704.jpg (276 KB, 1200x801)
276 KB
276 KB JPG
>>1608027
First prints out of it, mount rings for a set of minigun barrels.

>>1608418
They said they won't ship the textured ones until they can improve their batch yields.

>>1608421
Great.
>>
>>1608697
That's going to melt after just a few bullets shot. Please post a video of you testing it.
>>
>>1608584
Not gonna' lie, I think that looks kinda' cool. Sort of like 80's bakelite.
I wouldn't want it on all my prints though.
>>
>>1608402

If I go 3DP instead of sculpted artisans, was thinking of hunting down a forms2 or peopoly moai to try off the bat and not my prusa.. did you make the models yourself or are they out there on thingiverse/somewhere?
>>
wont post it here but just found a site that has like almost all cgtrader models
>>
>>1608421
>my printer is so much better than yours
>not telling which one it is though, i fear being shown wrong too much.
In bird culture this is called a shitposting move.
>>
>>1608718
There are probably dozens if not hundreds of keycaps on thingiverse.
DIYing a print is either really easy or fucking harder than fuck. Whichever you find your current project it will be time consuming. My latest one is a month in. I've gained and lost motivation more than once and abandoned it twice. This is the last time I take an existing model and make it 3d printable.
>>
File: shrugs.png (99 KB, 234x231)
99 KB
99 KB PNG
>>1608631
The capacitor keeps the fan noise down at low speeds. That's it only job. If your chop & swap 5015 isn't wailing at lower speeds, a capacitor isn't needed.
I put one in because I run dual 5015s and better safe than sorry.
>>
>>1608726
Give us a hint.
>>
if you had $2000 to spend on a 3d printer, what 3d printer would that be?
>>
>>1608763

Brazil, Google. There are some for sale, like $20 but you can get access to a lot of popular models on cgtrader.
>>
>>1608764
a good one i can print dildos with
>>
>>1608764
Lulzbot Mini2

There isn't much else in that price range that I've been completely satisfied with.
>>
>>1608764
I would save up longer and get a Form 3
>>
something strange going on with a particular print. im on the 15th layer and it should be a lot thicker than what's on the printing bed, like im on layer 15 and at 30 it should be a lot thicker but it's not showing that on bed. it's thin. personally i think its nozzle that's why i ordered 30 of them and a glass bed. it will be here tomorrow.
>>
>>1608836

nevermind i fixed it. it's definitely the nozzle. i used a .6mm and its skating.
>>
>>1608014
dude stfu, stop trying to recover from your stupidity, you remind me of the "just 360 and walk away" bullshit.
>>
>>1608764

Is 2 $1000 printers an option?
>>
>>1608764
Right now I've got a possible order for several 30 hour prints that require large build volume, so I'd buy four Anycubic Chirons if I had a spare 2000 USD. I wouldn't mind two or three CR-10 S5's either, and 2000 USD would be a decent start for an Ender 3 print farm.

If you're a consumer though, 1000-2000 is a wierd point in the market. It's well ahead of chinkshit, but it doesn't afford you any of the big name professional printers. Lulzbot Mini is probably your best bet if you're strict on the budget, but I started out on Ultimaker 2's so I'd wait untill I found one for 2000 USD. If this is your first printer and you have a 2000USD budget, I'd just buy a Prusa and keep the change for upgrades and filament.
>>
>>1608764
Prusa + Multi Material kit for it
>>
>>1608764
Like the other anon, an ender 3 print farm sounds good.
>>
>>1608910
>he fell for it
>>
>>1608917
t. someone who has never printed multi-material
It's literally heaven. Use a prime material and a water-soluble support material, or two prime materials for separate colours. Save money while still looking cool by doing your shells in bronze PLA and your infills in walmart white.
>>
>>1608921
for soluble support an idex setup is superior. That prusa shit only helps wehn you want more than 2 materials.
>>
I changed extruders, when i home, the nozzle is like 50X 20Y off from the bed corner. Is it possible to set this offset in marlin?
>>
File: printinginblack.png (1.08 MB, 1008x567)
1.08 MB
1.08 MB PNG
Couple of threads ago I took a survey on a new brand of filament to try, and I decided to go with 3dsolutech pla.

I was mainly having trouble with black filament pla, and I have been wanting to print at .2mm layer height when I am in a rush to print.

>pic related

I managed to lessen my issue of layers not sticking as I keep getting the extruder hotter, by extra 5-10C.

I am currently printing @ 230C to see the results.

Now, when I do .1mm layer height 200-205C seems to be fine for it.

Am I doing something wrong or is this normal temp for black pla @ .2mm layer height to get a good layer adhesion?
>>
File: on3tfag3fdd21.jpg (1.28 MB, 4314x2427)
1.28 MB
1.28 MB JPG
>>1608764
I'm pretty sstifled with my Dremel 3D45, got it on sale at $1500.

> inb4 proprietary filament shill

There are mods on thingiverse that let you use any brand's filament.
>>
>>1608949
>Am I doing something wrong or is this normal temp for black pla
No, not at all. Sounds like you've got PETG or your printer is returning the wrong temperature.
>>
>>1609027
Holy shit... I was about to link the filament I have. Which I will still do

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME7CV7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But this question popped up, and I didn't see a notice/or missed it but apparently it tells you to print at 230C temp. https://www.amazon.com/ask/questions/TxGGV170JM75JB/ref=ask_dp_dpmw_al_hza

lol I need to read reviews/questions more.
>>
File: 2019-05-12 17.26.28.jpg (1.88 MB, 2592x4608)
1.88 MB
1.88 MB JPG
Why does my top layer look like this? The homes are oval, and there's gaps that shouldn't be there (especially between the walls and the rest).
>>
>>1609031
If it works, it works. For reference most PLA prints round about 200.
>>
>>1609047
Dont get me wrong, my white and green filament, I usually do it at 200C, black when I tried to print at the same temp, the layers would not stick at alll.
>>
Having trouble with bed adhesion with Sunlu white PLA+, E temp 215C, bed 50C was 60C, blue painter's tape on bed, still has trouble sticking. Any ideas? Printing first layer at 22.5mm/s
>>
>>1609083
Your Z0 might be too high.
>>
>>1609087
i'm getting good squish, it just lifts up as the nozzle moves away from what it just laid. I have a bltouch so levelness shouldn't be a problem. I just replaced the nozzle so I'm hoping this fixes it.
>>
>>1609089
Hmmm... What about your retraction settings?
>>
>>1609090
6mm retraction at 40mm/s. The print fails consistently after I start the first bottom layer, the model has concentric layout so the start is a very tight circle, that just balls up on the nozzle and the rest follow suit. I'm gonna try changing it to lines.
>>
>>1609093
Are you using a skirt, brim or raft?
>>
>>1609094
skirt
>>
>>1609094
Changing the top/bottom layer layout to lines instead of concentric seems to have fixed it, I guess this PLA+ doesn't like 1mm diameter circles on the first layer.
>>
>>1609096
That's weird.
>>
>>1609083
>>1609089
>>1609093
>>1609095
Ditch the painters tape and get a glass bed if you have too, that tape was a half decent ned adhesion method like 8 years ago, now its just shit because its so hard to level the bed properly. That Sunlu PLA+ is the only PLA Ive bought for the last few months and Ive never had an adhesion issue with gluestick on a glass bed.
>>
>>1609036
>the holes are oval
calibrate your steps per mm on x and y
>gaps in general
add more top/bottom layers
>gaps between walls and rest
increase infill overlap
>>
>>1609098
> that tape was a half decent ned adhesion method like 8 years ago, now its just shit because its so hard to level the bed properly
It worked great with my Hatchbox PLA that I was using before getting this new spool. I have an automatic bed leveler so I haven't manually leveled my bed in months.
>>
>>1608921
>Save money while still looking cool by doing your shells in bronze PLA and your infills in walmart white
Damn, that's a good idea, I never thought of that. Another case for getting the MMU on one of our printers at work, I guess, thanks.
>>
>>1609100
PLA+ is typically a slighly different blend than regular PLA, that could be the issue. I still say just get a glass bed, painters tape is shit.
>>
BTW, do you guys not use alternate extra perimeter?
>>
>>1609102
Have you tried PEI? I've heard a PEI sheet on a glass plate is the best adhesion you'll get for most materials except PETG, which chemically bonds to PEI and won't be removed nondestructively.
>>
>>1609105
Never had a reason to, in the almost 3 years Ive had my CR-10 Ive only ever had 1 print detach from my bed mid print. The other less than probably 5 adhesion issues Ive had were either not having a good layer of gluestick or bed leveling.
>>
>>1609105
Prince Edward Island isn't very flat, though.
>>
Do these do anything? For 4 dollars why not buy them?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/TL-Smoother-Addon-Module-for-Pattern-Elimination-Motor-Clipping-Filter-3D-Printer-Stepper-Motor-Drivers-For/32962426040.html
>>
>>1608949
I'm using the white and silver Solutech and 220-230 is normal for my first layer. I use a glass bed and it refuses to stick at low temp. 215 seems my best temperature after that according to temp towers.
>>
>>1609113

I heard after a certain board version that it makes no difference. I have them just never installed it.
>>
>>1609119
Ive got an ender 3 I don't know what board version
>>
>>1609121

I believe it was Board version 1.1.3 or after but could be just rumors, i remember reading about it. Just open the cover on the bottom left and it will say it on the board.
>>
>>1609122
I have 1.1.3
>>
>>1609083
Gluestick on a mirror/glass. I use Sunlu almost exclusively for PLA and I've never had a problem with it.
>>
how tight should the x belt be? i saw some guy stick a hex key wrench and pull it completely forward and then tightened. im asking because it just started making loud noises like the stepper motor was clicking crazy, tightened it and its gone.
>>
>>1609154
https://youtu.be/sPAs-DzgOWM?t=16
>>
>>1609122
Trinamic drivers don't need them, and not all 1.1.4 boards have Trinamic drivers anyway

https://blog.trinamic.com/2018/08/16/tl-smoothers-do-they-make-sense/
>>
File: IMG_20190512_174257.jpg (3.5 MB, 4000x2000)
3.5 MB
3.5 MB JPG
What is most likely doing this? Am I too hot? Did my PLA absorb too much moisture? Could this be a problem with 100% infill?

Ignore the obvious spot where I stopped the print
>>
>>1609208
It looks like overextrusion
>www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#extruding-too-much-plastic
>>
>>1609208
The bottom looks fine
>>
>>1609208
Your bed is probably leveled just a bit too close but yes its also more than likely 100% infill. Those weird lines are a result of new filament pushing old lines out of the way and crinkling up as a result. Youll damn near never actually print something with 100% infill, regardless of if the thinigiverse page tells you to. Generally if you want more strength you add more walls and maybe a bit more infill, not just crank up the infill.
>>
>>1609211
Of course it will, all the plastic is being squeezed out of the top.
>>
>>1608921
>>1609101
>save money
>prusa mmu

pick one
>>
>>1609212
>>1609210
Ill check these out thank you
>>
File: 1551920856577.jpg (79 KB, 960x960)
79 KB
79 KB JPG
Just did the ender 3 mod (printed better extruder frame) for printing flexible TPE. Now it prints a layer and a half really nice, then it clogs for whatever reason. I believe its not clogged in bowden tube, there is not any wrinkled filament when i pull it out.
Tried temperatures from 230 to 250 C, lowered speed down to 10mm/s. Obviously retraction is off. Any tips what to try next?
>>
>>1608402

Heh, I was thinking that if I did decide to 3DP instead of sculpting artisan clay to hunt down someone with a Forms2 or Moai to achieve some fidelity.

If I do go 3DP though, did you make the 3d models yourself or are they floating around on here/thingiverse or something?
>>
question. i took off the x belt and was checking if holding the x motor wheel so it cant move is supposed to produce a clicking sound? where to get stronger steppers? does this mean putting too much force on the x belt will cause it to do that? because that's exactly what's happening.
>>
>>1609104
no but now I do, thanks anon
>>
>>1609248
Are you talking about this one? I have some capricorn left over and doing this mod would be awesome.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3072475
>>
>>1609281

update. the x belt being too tight was the problem after all. i watched a youtube video where someone put insane amount of force but that's completely wrong, if you do that the motor will sometimes not have enough strength to move because its so damn tight. it doesn't need to be that tight, the more freerer x can move without the belts moving out of its place the better.
>>
File: IMG_20190512_220822123.jpg (602 KB, 1664x1248)
602 KB
602 KB JPG
I like the hatchbox mint green color
>>
>>1609362
The blue one is also a solid choice, everybody in my office loves it and keeps requesting those two colours when I print things for them
>>
New Thread >>1609372
>>
File: 1547695951144.jpg (50 KB, 423x613)
50 KB
50 KB JPG
>>1609302
Yes, that one. No help with the clogging?
>>
>>1609009
Got any pictures of some prints from it?
>>
>>1609408
Im sorry, Did you clean the nozzle? Another thing might have happened is that the tube isn't seated all the way in the extruder and theres a gap where filament might've gotten in there.



Delete Post: [File Only] Style:
[Disable Mobile View / Use Desktop Site]

[Enable Mobile View / Use Mobile Site]

All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.