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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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New thread bitches.

Thread hymn.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGNiXGX2nLU

Last thread:>>1588912

>Haas automation videos.
https://www.youtube.com/user/haasautomation/playlists
>Titans of CNC
https://www.youtube.com/user/titanamericanbuilt/playlists
>>
>>1600483
Contributions

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qq5dFeBhvRQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPIkPGqjBCc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABeio9yOtkI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_gJ0PDWs0iU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQ332KGc-6M
https://www.natool.com/engineering-data/tap-style-guide
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=92ztzCP76ho
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WN1usZ2K8xI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EeKreZqgi9M
https://metalcutting.com/%E2%80%ACwire%E2%80%AD-%E2%80%ACcut%E2%80%AD-%E2%80%ACedm-advantages-disadvantages/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hrWskHpk3oo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbMbFvsRTJo
>abom79 is a good channel for manual machining and good "big old iron" work
https://www.youtube.com/user/Abom79
>ThisOldTony provides great videos in the range of hobby garage machining
https://www.youtube.com/user/featony
>Clickspring shows what can be done with truly rudimentary tools
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCworsKCR-Sx6R6-BnIjS2MA
>Robrenz is a wealth of high precision machining, toolmaking, and metrology
https://www.youtube.com/user/ROBRENZ/
>Joe Pieczynski has good tips for the budding machinist on a variety of topics mostly related to manual machining
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCpp6lgdc_XO_FZYJppaFa5w
>NYC CNC is half-decent most of the time if you can get past the tormach shilling bullshit
https://www.youtube.com/user/saunixcomp
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CX92C3klOiY
>>
>>1600483
and maybe https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Zy3yElAWwI
and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w1oASjbm2F8
and https://www.youtube.com/user/Threadexpress
and this guy does aluminum and steel casting (cool) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzaz39hUUKM
and for old iron and restoring it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nc5Z_Mo2J0Y&t=0s
and this guy isn't particularly funny, but sometimes interesting https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l4vaszLFBOE
and stefan gotteswinter https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJgXH6K9GIU&t=1s
and another guy that does metal castings https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5pu3hJ7SZE
and watch this redneck build a million dollar business in his barn https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4aP3SIWIVlY&t=0s
and this guy isn't too big an idiot https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fDJOJSBXswo
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCkSr3M8GXbS4txqPY7OMxQ/featured
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXoG9uEMIpA
http://www.cnc1.com/files/PDF/FANUC-CNC-Specifications/Fanuc_0i-MD_Standard_Features_and_Options.pdf
http://www.sharp-industries.com/sites/default/files/parts-book/FANUC%20Series%20Oi%20%26%20Oi%20Mate%20Model%20D%20-%20PARAMETER%20MANUAL.pdf
http://www.sharp-industries.com/sites/default/files/parts-book/FANUC%20Series%20Oi%20%26%20Oi%20Mate%20Model%20D%20%28VMC%29%20-%20OPERATORS%20MANUAL.pdf
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=poOngCE7tyM
https://www.youtube.com/user/AndersonPrototypes/videos
https://www.youtube.com/user/artisandice/videos
https://www.youtube.com/user/jhawkdesign/videos?sort=dd&shelf_id=0&view=0
https://www.youtube.com/user/l0ckcr4ck3r/videos
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCuusVnkjtCWzO5FHLNsDxRg
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6QfeDvhEuA5DiUoypF9OYw/videos
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7BdO8koXBLWmzjYLT2aSoA/videos
https://www.youtube.com/user/tjzelick/videos
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9BOdwByzXls
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wIEi1ElHa6w
>>
>>1600483
http://tachino.o.oo7.jp/index.html
this one is toptier diy and even in 2018 he post pics like hes on a 56k
http://www.ibara.ne.jp/~ymnr/index.htm
this one is good too
http://mecha-tech.la.coocan.jp/index-e.html
http://www.eonet.ne.jp/~mmf/index.html
http://mini-senban.com/mini-senban/
http://secsuzuki.blog19.fc2.com/
http://sec-suzuki.com/
https://jisakuyaro.com/
>>
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>>1600483
That feel when the machine is running completely unattended, gotta switch parts out every hour though.
>>
>>1600502
Thats a good feel. Getting paid at the end of the job is another good feel too.

Also, anyone messed with inconel? I'm worried it's gonna shred inserts.
>>
>>1600538
It's gonna shred inserts. Honestly I would look at Titans of CNC videos on turning Inconel/Stainless/Titanium, if they have them. They have several on milling those materials with speeds & feeds + the tool.

The tooling company probably has recommendations too.

https://www.mmsonline.com/articles/long-lasting-insert-turns-around-tough-inconel-job
>>
>>1600542
according to the article, deeper passes get it done faster, even if the inserts break after a while
>>
>>1600544
>While taking on Inconel, titanium and other high-temperature alloys can provide a competitive advantage and a source of pride, these exotic materials are abrasive to tools and impose high cutting forces. Additionally, they tend to generate hot, stringy chips that can stick to the cutting edge and overheat the tool. As a result, such work can create bottlenecks, tie up machines and increase tooling costs.

>This part requires rough turning and facing to remove about 0.8 inch of material across its entire diameter, primarily for truing up. As forged, it measures 98 inches in diameter, with a step-down to a 93-inch diameter on one end.

>Previously, machining took 105 hours and 40 passes at a feed rate of 0.02 ipr, a cutting depth of 0.075 inch and a speed of 38 sfm. The turning and facing operations required different inserts, and the job typically ate through 69 inserts per part. In fact, tool failure was so prevalent that inserts required indexing every half inch, and the job had to be run 100-percent attended. Moreover, the main failure mode was edge rupture, which renders the insert useless even if some edges go unused. All the while, the operation tied up a large vertical lathe from MAG Giddings & Lewis (Fond du Lac, Wisconsin) that the company needed for other work.

>Most tools the company tested produced minor improvements at best. The exception was the Hex-Turn, which features a 45-degree lead angle presentation and top-face chipbreakers. Tests showed these inserts could significantly improve cycle time and tool life compared to the square, flat-topped, zero-lead models the shop had been using.
>>
>>1600545
>The company standardized parameters for the new tool at an 0.015-ipr feed rate (slightly less than the previous rate), an 0.15-inch cutting depth (double the previous setting) and a speed of 60 sfm (60 percent higher than the previous setting). Despite more than doubling the cutting rate, each insert lasted through the whole part. Cycle time dropped 15 percent. “We would have been happy with just the tool life improvement,” Mr. Dempsey says. “The throughput gain was an unexpected bonus.”
>>
>>1600547
Cutting deeper reduces the number of required passes, which, in turn, reduces the insert’s exposure to the hot, abrasive environment at the cutting edge. However, as Mr. Whitley explains, an insert’s ability to withstand a deeper cut depends on its strength. That’s why—true to its name—the Hex-Turn features a hexagonal geometry, a shape that is second only to round inserts in strength, he says.
>>
>>1600548
Thanks, but sounds a bit like a advertisement for hex-turn.

I'll probably go for round inserts and max out the doc and buy more inserts than I need
>>
>>1600593
Ingersoll product manager Raymon Avery adds that the other difference-maker is the 45-degree lead angle, which is made intrinsically possible by the insert’s hex shape and chipbreaker top face. This lead angle provides a gentler entry into the work that reduces cutting forces and protects the insert. Meanwhile, the contoured top face breaks up the long, hot, gummy chips characteristic of Inconel alloys and deflects them away from the insert to reduce heat.
>>
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if that one guy is still having problems with his EDM machine, then he should read the manual.

The whole damn manual. Buy it if you have to, if it helps advance your career it was worth it.
>>
>machine is stuck in conversational
>won't go back to main menu
Damn moody machine spirits
>>
>>1600613
unfortunately I only have a week left to use the machine and probably won't get another chance for a long while. I found the manual and read the part on cutting conditions, but I still can't get my part to cut. I got it to run on some much thinner stock, but the wire keeps breaking on my actual stock. if I had more time I could probably figure it out but I'm too short on it already.
>>
>>1600757
What kinda controller?

Sounds like a FAGOR controller. They're so shit in so many ways I expect them to fuck up just like how you're describing and much, much more.
>>
>>1600757
>have some ancient fanuc mill
>just to pull out or put a tool in the spindle requires minimum four button presses at various parts of the machine and possibly a knob turn
>to change to a different pocket is
>knob turn
>six buttons (code)
>knob turn
>four buttons
>have to manually type in ALL offsets, work and tool
>has a copy paste function but it's so fucking convoluted I'm the only one who ever figured it out and I ended up forgetting how it worked
>only way to talk to the machine is through a serial port
And then they wonder why setups take twice as long as on our HAAS machines.
>>
>>1600920
Fanuc ot-f
>>
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I need to build a spindex for my surface grinder. Can't justify spending big bucks on a nice Harig one.

How does this design look for spin-grinding small sections of rod and stuff?

One thrust bearing, one ball bearing, in a tube.
>>
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>>1601357

>precision work
>of any kind
>not preloaded angular contact bearings

What are you, poor?
>>
>>1601373
>instead of $300 harig you too can get a $300 pair of bearings
>>
>>1601357
>>1601379
tapered roller + thrust bearing is looking like the better choice
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6XgyL7R6fWE

a'yep, tapered roller bearings with 50 millionths runout
>>
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>>1601402
they aren't accurate enough, even the mini lathe tapered roller bearings are only grade 0 (half thou)

need grade 00 at least
>>
>>1601448
https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3285&category=

Common bearing for those mini lathes though apparently.
>>
this guy has the right idea, /diy/ cnc grinder

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fo83l-Xnf1c
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x7M1QNicFvc

everything you wanted to know but were too lazy to figure out, about participating in used machinery auctions.

git'r done
>>
fuckin' yootube, fenner has been working again

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0XVJg8TXIJM
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Lctp9SFTU8

Kitamura
>>
Do you think they have to take into account wheel wear. Or is it negligible. I use the fuck out of 9 inch grinders at work, it's neat to see grinders as a precision instrument instead of as a dog of war.
>>
>>1601357

if runout/wasting time doesnt matter to you or you are making doll house furniture with loose specs just use tapered roller bearings or a brass sleeve or some shit or just keep doing what your doing

if you want it to be worth it for a grinder then use preloaded angular contact bearings or crossed roller bearings.
both can be had starting at $50 or less for nsk superprecision. even brand new on misumi sets of preloaded ac bearings are cheap. you can get brand new crossed roller bearings for just as cheap, other wise just buy a chinese one because it will be better than anything homemade and cheaper
>>
>>1602028
You're damn right they take wheel wear into account.

The wheel can get loaded up on surface grinders and then they use a small piece of diamond stuck in a round piece of aluminum to "dress" the wheel, which means knocking off a few thou of wheel+metal stuck in it.

and if you're spin grinding with like a spindex or something, you drop the wheel down so the edge held in the spindex hits the wheel first, so the end there is ground to size before the wheel geometry is totally fucked by the rest of the grinding.

With the right wheel and material combination the wheel is wearing out and exposing new sharp wheel grit instead of getting loaded up with metal.

>>1602035
Better than home-made? You do realize we are machinists, right?

Can you link me to a 4 inch diameter tapered roller bearing with the highest precision class for around $50? I know I'm going to have to call or email someone to get the bearings, so I've shelved it for now.

I wonder how good/bad a bearing bronze bushing would be... Less than a tenth of clearance isn't enough for rotation without bearings, right?
>>
>>1602040
just checked my chinese import spindex, spindle runout is around half a thou without even a collet in it

gyabage
>>
>>1602040
>>1602040
>Can you link me to a 4 inch diameter tapered roller bearing with the highest precision class for around $50?

yeah ebay. that description is vague so it makes it harder to find , you can even find the actual bearings you should be using there for cheaper and easier to find because they are more common in industry, also workign in metric units makes finding bearings easier because most manufactures make more metric bearing types than they do imperial

>>1602057
>collet
why would you buy a collet version
>>
>>1602101
>yeah ebay

so in other words no
>>
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>tfw you give up and just have to hire a guy to fix the machine for you.
not exactly a good feel.
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SvalPHgbwgA
>>
about had it with these shitty fixtures.

of course I designed them, and the parts pull right the fuck out if I don't go slow.
>>
>>1602615
I wish I had never bought those shitty hex clamps too. At least the mitee-bite brand fasteners don't strip out in a week.
>>
>>1602615
Post fixture, I'll tell you what needs changed.
>>
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>>1602657
some parts just werent meant to be easy to hold.
>>
>>1602673
Why can't you just use soft jaws?
>>
>>1602691
way too slow, I can swap out the whole plate in seconds, with it properly aligned as well.

not to mention soft jaws would hold one part at a time, the machine will only fit a single dual station vise as well.

might be able to fit three 4 inch vises on the table, but not easily and even then that's less workholding than that pallet which could easily fit three of those strips.

There are flat areas on the sides of the part for holding it.
The tangs on the ends might make a good candidate for holding the part, but not with this iteration of stuff. I'm not going to stop using it to make a new one right now.

but the biggest problem with soft jaws is that I'm not going to stand there and fucking change the parts out every 10 minutes
>>
>>1602697
>>1602673
and looking at it again, I think the part that pulled out was tapered toward the bottom end a few thou.

None of the other ones did. Damnit. Over-constrained fixture, under-constrained part.

fucking hex clamps fucked me again, part must have pulled up a few thou in a previous op

updating that pallet for pitbulls too, just not implemented yet

there is apparently no amount of 1/4" screw hex clamps that will hold down an aluminum part good enough for rough machining.
>>
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>>1602700
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8Ao-U-AIT0
>>
>>1602700
>>1602697
no no no, just make a fixture like a soft jaw that holds multiple parts at one time.

you literally could have just made like little boxes that have a side that bolts on to clamp.
>>
>>1602732
because the toolpaths need that clearance and the curvature holds it better than just a box.
>>
>>1602745
>curvature holds it better than just a box.
fair enough, I'm not making the part so you know best.
>>
>>1602745
also, look pretty neat. what is the part for?
>>
>>1602748
designer dildo handles
>>
>>1602754
Honestly wouldn't surprise me these days
>>
Has anyone bought a Drill Doctor?
I can use a darex at work, but nobody wants to sit off the clock being in the way sharpening shit.
I'm considering buying the 750 one and seeing how good the results are, I'm worried about the lip to lip tolerances
>>
>>1602831
I have a drill doctor, it works. It's pretty funky to use, I tried to read the manual too.

It's just not clear which notch to use for the drill angle you want, you'll see what I'm talking about.

I would buy it if there wasn't a better system around.
>>
Used to work for a race team (NASCAR) in the fab department. I knew the basics of machining but they wouldn't train me on set ups and I wasnt making enough so I had to quit. Left two years ago and got a 40hr a week apprenticeship until I felt comfortable enough to find something more serious. I just got a job as a machinist at a job shop, 2.5 hours away from the race shop. Today we got a order/print from the shop I left and jesus christ I can't believe this shit was over my head at one point. Also extremely small world, what are the fucking odds. One of the prints they sent was a part I used to personally make on the CNC laser and dimple press. Literally blew me away to the point where I couldn't tell if I was dreaming or something.
>>
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is there a way to make this groove without having to waste time grinding a form tool that I'll only ever use once?
>>
>>1603217
do you have live tooling? if so just use a ball endmill.

if not use a parting tool with a round insert.
>>
>>1603226
the problem is that it's not a standard radius so I don't know how I can do it with any tooling I actually have
>>
>>1603217
a V point tool and the right cnc toolpath

a very sharp tool
>>
>>1603241
>I don't know how I can do it with any tooling I actually have
you may have to buy some stuff or grind that form tool you were talking about.
>>
>>1603266
unfortunately I'm turning that section offset from the stock centerline and I don't have a 4 jaw for any of the cnc lathes. at this point I'm considering fudging it with a 1/8th tool. the part is just a demo piece and will probably never get used anyway.
>>
>>1603283
I wouldn't half-ass it anon...
>>
Surprisingly some decent lathe work

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PeJ4ljE72z0
>>
>>1603297
does that green shit really work? I've had aluminum shim stock get pinched through and mar my part.
>>
>>1603302
it's pretty much like thick plastic paper.
>>
>>1603302
>>1603313
yep, "paki tape" the boys on /k/ call it, the arabians apparently use it to decorate their rusty AKs so it must be durable shit.

probably thin sheets of tough plastic with some adhesive on them.
>>
>>1603293
Shouldn't this be the prevailing attitude in this thread anyways?
We are machinists after all, just grind the right tool.
>>
Listen you little shit bird just because I do shipping and receiving and I'm not a machinist doesn't mean you can be a cunt
>>
>>1603672
And I drive a truck
>>
>spend all afternoon making a part copying an existing design
>find out that the flat I thought was an anti-rotation feature was actually a do nothing feature
>my part spins uselessly
>>
>>1603750
interesting.
>>
How does one become a machinist in the US?
>>
>>1603884
What state
>>
>>1603887
Maybe Wisconsin. I'm planning on relocating with eyes on the Midwest.
>>
>>1603893
https://www.indeed.com/q-Machinist-l-Wisconsin-jobs.html?vjk=b8b868ba8e5699e0
>>
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How do I hide these operations on the left here? They are super annoying to scroll through and I don't know why they are there in the first place

Fusion 360
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6sqXY7fOVLQ

of course, you can just use a hardened steel rod against some more hardened steel for the low speed grinding work
>>
>>1604069
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZXAVst_0Xxk
>>
>>1604074
>>1604069
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vueqfh6NYP4
keith rucker finds out ground surfaces from india still aren't good flat surfaces
>>
40+ MRR w/ 3/8 tool

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6dFL3QIZwz8
>>
This guy's cnc g0704 is kind of neat.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kD3zcasmDDY
>>
Why didn't you warn me, /emt/?
>bigger machine = more good
>buying big old used machines is the way to go
>all the tonnes add fun factor
I had at least 4 separate heart attacks moving this fucking thing, and it's still outside, it'll be another dose of suffering getting it into my garage.
>>
>>1604647
oh shit lol

you need heavy equipment to move those damn things anon, but once you get it in place and hooked up it's totally worth it
>>
>>1604647
Do you have a pry bar at least?

The railroad ones are the best I've come across. Then you can just roll it across some round bars.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ks1JySrNaqQ
>>
>>1604665
First I plan to take it apart to some extent, I want to at least repaint it since the old paint is fucked all over.
>>1604667
I have a small tractor for pushing it around on the ground, will probably put it on some wheels or at least tubes and roll it.
>>
>>1604678
good deal.

What kind of machine is it?
>>
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>>1604682
Pic related, just used for ~20 years.
>>
>>1604686
Oh that looks pretty damn nice actually.

Camlock, beefy tailstock, squat chuck swing for it's length like my Pratt & Whitney, lots of thread settings, three separate shafts for feed/threading/direction change, hell it even has a removable chip tray.
>>
>>1604688
Yeah, it's a good lathe, especially for the ~2.5k I paid for it. Mine even came with a swiss-type quick change toolpost and a new 200mm 4-jaw chuck, although unfortunately it's not an independent 4-jaw.
>>
>>1604694
didn't know they made non-independent 4-jaw chucks
>>
>>1604694
got any carbide insert tools for it?
>>
>>1604710
Me neither, but apparently they do.
>>1604713
Yes, mostly chinkshit, with more on the way. Good enuff.
>>
>>1604717
Did it come with DRO?
>>
ultra precision in the UK

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9XRnVvJTj20
>>
>>1604694
>>1604686
good buy desu
>>
>>1604079
Looks like Pajeet don't bother redressing the grinding wheel
>>
>>1604739
more like he didn't bother balancing it or the setup of his grinder was shit and it started bouncing around for some reason
>>
>>1604647
I learned this moving a 10000lb cnc lathe myself. Nearly died twice, spent $3600, and then I had to spend another $2500 getting power to it.

10/10 would recommend hiring someone next time
>>
>>1604746
But now you can do what all the other plebs can't because you have heavy ass machinery in your garage.
>>
>tfw about to finish community college and lose access to millions worth of machinery
even if I get an industry job I probably won't get to use their shit for personal projects and I'll never be able to afford some of this shit on my own
>>
>>1604786
Don't sell yourself short, build a business.
>>
Gotteswinter works over an import cross-slide

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLs7wjpuU_c
>>
>>1604786
Shop I work at lets people do their own projects as long as they don't destroy shit and bring their own material
>>
>>1604718
Nope, but for a lathe I'll probably live without one. Maybe I'll buy one later, but I'm more interested in doing a semi-CNC-conversion.
>>1604746
This one's only 1.7t, but the forklift we had gotten to get it off the truck couldn't lift it, had to call a 24/7 car rescue service's truck with a big loader since everyone else we tried was already drunk on saturday afternoon. In the end we saved very little money compared to just getting a truck with a big loader to begin with.
>>
>>1605059
>semi-CNC-conversion

Any idea if they replace the threading leadscrew with a ballscrew on those?

powerful hybrid steppers (cheaper than AC servos) that give much the same performance, they have built-in encoders like a servo.
>>
>>1605074
Replacing it is one option, but I'll try to do it while preserving manual functionality, so I'll probably run an additional ballscrew.
>>
>>1605079
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZNPeywCS8tI
>>
>>1605088
Or keeping the leadscrew like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTs9GygRQ-U
>>
>>1605113
yeah i figured there would be extra backlash from the gears tho
>>
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feels good using the old surface grinder to improve my mini lathe

too bad the cross-slide casting is cracked though :(

I'm figuring on buying some high end roller bearing linear rails and just throwing the cross-slide piece away.
>>
>>1605518
Chinese quality strikes again!
>>
>>1605551
Indeed.
>>
>>1605551
Man the flat part of the saddle that sits on the flat way was the least garbage part and it was still complete garbage. Took a thou and a half out of it and now it will have great contact on the edge nearest the chuck and scraped-style contact on the other end.

Can't wait to do the V way, it's a 90 degree V so I can relieve some off the side of the wheel, clamp and indicate the saddle at a 45 and hit both surfaces.
>>
>>1605597
The flat part and one side of the V was "scraped" apparently by chinamen with like a hatchet or something.

The scraping left shit contact and giant divots like half a thousandth deep, with all the scraping marks being like an inch wide. Complete hack job.
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TTjMUn-ZOG0

okay this fancy epoxy granite thing is pretty cool
>>
>>1605729
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i4_Kd-HyrDg
>>
>>1605735
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZJM7aQ3H338
>>
>>1605737
some trouble with the Z axis on this guy's epoxy granite filled mill cnc conversion

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0inaALGB4Ug
>>
what speeds and feeds for reaming through holes on 7075 aluminum?
>>
>>1605828
dunno about small holes, just don't go too fast.
be more specific;
>>1605828
>7075
material thickness?
Rm?
~540 N/mm^2?
>holes
~M3?
speed ~1900 rpm
feed ~150 mm/min

https://schnittdaten.meusburger.com/kalkulator/reiben/
>>
>>1605828
1/4 reamer at 1 inch deep try 1378 rpm 15 IPM and make hole half thou to 0.0012" undersized
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idB7ei2lBVM
>>
this thing is pretty neat

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_oDDJ2vfng

like a saunders fixture plate on steroids
>>
Aluminum glock accessories guy here,

There's a 1997 Haas VF-6 locally for $28k, it's 50 taper with a chip auger Renishaw probe and gear head spindle (2 speed), 5000 RPM or so. 30HP

It's not ideal for what I'm doing at all, but I could fit lots of parts on the table if the controller can handle the code. It's more of a machine for large steel parts.
>>
>>1606334
You really don't want that machine.
>>
>>1606337
You're probably right. I need at least a 10k RPM spindle for aluminum.
>>
>>1606346
Lease to own a new haas vf3 with all the stuff you need. Or find a used one.
>>
>>1606349
Lease to own.. Okay, what are the chances I can get that loan without risking the farm?
>>
>>1606350
Haas has financing. No collateral needed I believe.
>>
>>1606349
>>1606351

actually I think that would be a mistake. I have a pretty good idea of where I want to be, and it's a pallet changing 4-axis 40 taper horizontal running tombstones of these parts, they are absolutely well suited to it. One tombstone and the 4th axis will turn making these parts into a single operation process. I would of course like a whole rack system of pallets but it's more likely to be just a 2-pallet or 4-pallet pool system.

I haven't been overly impressed with Haas offerings in the small pallet changing horizontal market.
>>
>>1606352
Then again I guess these babies are a new release for 2018

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=24nYbWUDJwU
>>
>>1606353
>>1606352
>>1606351
Damn, the EC-400 is really an underdog on basic stats.

Also, Trak machine tools shop tour: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=st8iOrden-8
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1f-jnu9vWxM

electric mag-chuck retains magnetism after power down, comes with machineable soft jaw setup.

Pretty cool.
>>
Can anyone here recommend a good emulsion coolant? We're using arrowcool ME347 here (small shop) but I'm looking for alternatives. Mostly cutting aluminum, we've had it rust some parts of the machines even if we run it pretty concentrated.
>>
>>1606346
You also don't want a 20 year old Haas.
>>
>>1606484
fair enough, my current capacity can be doubled with another $10k Tormach and the M machines are better anyway.

Operating a fleet of these things really isn't as bad as it sounded a year or two ago.
>>
>>1606617
>Tormach
Pls no, buy something better.
>>
>>1606479
We use blaser swisslube synergy 735. It works pretty damn good for stainless and steels. Dunno about aluminum.
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWDfSfSBIto

yess another shop tour

love this shit
>>
>>1606617
I would rather have a 20 year old Haas than a brand new Tormach.
>>
>>1606637
My ideas in action.

Every operator is also a programmer and they're responsible for their own machine.

Seems to be working out well.
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jLwMvFclsao

machining porn vidya from orange vise
>>
WHEW that's a tap

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X65Ha9YFeog
>>
>>1606714
>the 3 flute drill 6minutes in
u wot
>>
>>1606720
ikr, fucking crazy

the gun drill is pretty crazy too
>>
>>1606723
I've seen better programming with long drills (it's not a gun drill actually, it's just a long solid carbide thru-cool twist drill) but for the demonstration it was fine.

That three flute tho lol I bet it was just G00 in out move over in out etc.
>>
okay gentlemen, is this a good idea or what?

I'm going to take my 1.25" square bars and interpolate and thread mill a threaded hole on one end then use that to help hold it down with 3 uniforce clamps
>>
>>1606755
>>
>>1606755
>>1606756
purpose being rough machining
>>
>>1606755
Seems pretty overkill to have the thread unless you have a datum coming off of it. It could also force the part to twist or pull it away from the bottom datum of the fixture unless everything is perfect. Unless that's a lot bigger than it looks, those three clamps should be more than enough though I'd space them out a little more.
>>
>>1606761
I'm not entirely sure if the uniforce are enough or not. I don't want to break another $50 endmill finding out.

The Helical rougher I'm using has been amazing in that regard, though. Better carbide I think, than the lakeshore VFA line.

I plan to clamp it like I have now with the 3 uniforce clamps and then use the screw as a bonus to make damn sure it doesn't move.

Custom fixturing isn't all worthwhile if you have to de-rate the feeds and speeds (even on my Tormach).
>>
>>1606762
What's the material, depth of cut axial and radial, size of tool and feed rate?
>>
>>1606764
Helical 29302
https://www.dbcindustrial.com/shop/item/HELICAL-29302/38-x-38-x-1-x-3-3FL-020cr-Carbide-Mill-ZPlus-Coat

3/8" diameter 1" loc 3fl 0.020" radius, ZPlus coated (like ZRN but probably better)


In 6061 Aluminum, 1" doc, 0.05" radial, 45 IPM, 4000 RPM

MRR about 2.25"

should be able to run it twice as fast at least even on my machine.
>>
>>1606766
Is that your max spindle? That endmill should be doing at least 7000-8000 RPM if possible. You're also at 3xD for your axial, just because the endmill is that long doesn't mean you can rough with it like that. Back it off to two 1/2" depth cuts with .09" stepover, max the RPM and add another 15IPM and if that works go to 70IPM.
>>
>>1606769
Also, this is assuming you have at least mist coolant, if not flood. Either way you need to back off the depth or it will keep pulling.
>>
>>1606769
I'm not overly fond of the idea of taking two passes, should have bought a 1/2 LOC tool for that.
>>
>>1606772
>>1606770
Also yes I use flood.

This article is pretty on-point.

https://www.harveyperformance.com/in-the-loupe/depth-of-cut/

Quick Definitions:
Radial Depth of Cut (RDOC): The distance a tool is stepping over into a workpiece. Also referred to as Stepover, Cut Width, or XY.

Axial Depth of Cut (ADOC): The distance a tool engages a workpiece along its centerline. Also referred to as Stepdown, or Cut Depth.

Peripheral Milling: An application in which only a percentage of the tool’s cutter diameter is engaging a part.

Slotting: An application in which the tool’s entire cutter diameter is engaging a part.

High Efficiency Milling (HEM): A newer machining strategy in which a light RDOC and heavy ADOC is paired with increased feed rates to achieve higher material removal rates and decreased tool wear.
>>
>>1606772
Unless you have a real mill and rock solid work holding, you can't really rough at 3xD deep without sacrificing radial depth. The endmill you have will work fine the way I said unless 4k is your max spindle. You'll be doing half as many passes with the large stepover so the rapid to reset for the second depth cut is all the time you'll have added which will be negated by the faster feed rate. Long endmills aren't for roughing and your tormach doesn't have the rigidity to do that kind of work at that kind of depth cut.
>>
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>>1606777
>>
>>1606777
Damn. Even HEM only uses 2x diameter. Maybe a 1/2 LOC is the way to go.
>>
>>1606780
Longer lengths of cut are really just for very light finish cuts on deep walls or reaching way down into something. Another thing to consider, your finish is going to be shit with those parameters so you'll need a .01" finish pass on the bottom anyway unless finish totally doesn't matter.
>>
>>1606783
Yeah I have a quick and dirty finishing toolpath, a Fusion 360 Horizontal, hits every horizontal surface and the side walls with the side of the tool.
>>
>>1606783
>>1606784
and yes it uses the same tool, but it doesn't matter because full DOC so no line halfway down, and it's a rough'n'finish endmill anyway, then the parts get tumbled before hardcoat anodize anyway.
>>
$5000 for a used giant robot?

What am I missing here?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kuka-KR150-Robot-w-KRC1-Controller-Pendant-Complete-ABB-Fanuc-Motoman-Nachi-/172362790473#viTabs_0
>>
Any idea how to prevent a burr forming on the backside of a drilled hole in 6061 aluminum?

0.159" (#21) diameter through a thin piece of aluminum, 200 thou thick or so.
>>
>>1606857
No, remember sexbot anon died doing what he loved, anon.
>>
>>1606857
>150gk payload
holy fuck thats a lot, looks liek it even has pneumatic counterweights on joint2
i doubt theres a catch, just surplus robots, they do this all the time, priced cheap because its not really practical to buy an old ass robot if you are running a plant, and to be honest, old robots complete, parted out are worth more than the sum of their parts. parting out the servos/drivers, ball/harominic reducers, cross roller bearings, pendant and all the cables could net you more than you paid for the robot but holy fuck kukas are ugly as shit.

>>1606985
the lore is way cooler than the realty
>>
>>1606865

If it's really nasty, a new drill will help. If you mean a normal thou or two burr, you can't.
>>
>>1607178
I didn't have a burr problem when I was milling the holes with a 1/8 endmill. I've just swapped back to doing that, because adding another tool, like a back chamfer tool, isn't a good solution.
>>
>>1607321
Just deburr the part when you're done lazy boi
>>
>>1607353
No that's unnecessary hand finishing. The dull drill I was using left a burr so big out the backside my vibratory tumbler wouldn't remove it all.

Just going to suck it up and mill the holes, they aren't deep. Might experiment with carbide drills later on.

Working on improving existing fixtures atm, this guy's stuff is great.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=57ZyBAfIUIA
>>
>>1607354
Just use a new drill
>>
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I have to machine a kind of bridge shaped part. is it going to be rigid enough just sitting on parallels? how much downward pressure can I handle just from the vice clamping the sides?
>>
>>1607688
If it's. 005 thick, no. If it's 2 inches thick yes. Give us more info you twit.
>>
It looks like all the cheap china tools on ebay are on sale or something.

Must be worried about the new tariffs.
>>
>>1607688
can you clamp it down to the table instead? might have to if it flexes too much.
>>
>>1607688
is that how it is going to be sitting, from the top?
>>
>>1607708
the stock is .886 wide at the top. I can clamp about 1/2" x 2 1/2" there.

>>1607716
yes. part of the stock has to hang outside of the vice. but I won't be doing anything to that part. also because of a scheduling fuckup I may have to run it without coolant. the operation is a 1 1/4" deep pocket. my current program is .105" depth of cut at 25ipm with I think 15% stepover. I'm machining 7075 aluminum with a 3 flute endmill from lakeshore carbide. how should I adjust my program to compensate? mainly I'm concerned about chip buildup inside the pocket as it gets deeper.
>>
>>1607713
oh god please no, I cant afford cheap tooling as it is.
>>
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>>1607745
This is something I can help you with, need more info though.

Is it the lakeshore VFA line? Regular 6" vise? Hard jaws or soft?

Is the pocket half-open like the pic here: >>1607688
?

Are you going to flip it over halfway through? If so make sure you have the block squared up good and set your zero on the same side if possible.

Honestly I would either try to hold it length-ways, like pic related, or next post pic
>>
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>>1607767
and like this do 3d profiling with a ball nose endmill and a controller that can handle the code

assuming you have CAM software, sounds like a school project where they make you write it all by hand though
>>
>>1607745
if it's a ZRN coated endmill the aluminum will stick to it less when it heats up, which it will without coolant.

You still need coolant though unless you want to spray stuff on it manually or stop the program every 30 seconds.
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ib6Xja2d-Bc
>>
>>1607745
That almost sounds like a sine bar or something. Why make it out of aluminum though?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mk63dWwLMVM

I didn't know DMG made small knuckle type 5-axis mills.
>>
>>1607745
and if the radius needs to be super accurate use a boring head to do it, better set the diameter of the boring head on a piece of scrap stock though.
>>
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>>1607767
I don't remember what line the tool is from. I think it says rfvf on the box. the vise is just a regular 6" vise with steel jaws since I didn't have time to make soft jaws. the part is oriented like this. the area around the arch is relieved so only the rectangular space above the arch is being clamped on. the half hanging out has raised features so I can't clamp on them. the actual machining area is fully inside the vise jaws.
>>
>>1607780
also I should clarify that I'm machining a forging that's already shaped like that. all I'm doing is cutting the pocket.

>>1607771
can I just stop after every pass to blow chips out with air or something?
>>
>>1607784
as long as the tool doesn't heat up enough to melt the aluminum into the flutes and snap right off. Better to spray it with WD-40 the whole time though.

This is CNC instead of manual right? On a manual you could just turn the handles by hand and stop to spray it with something when you feel the resistance increase, or pick the aluminum out of the flutes. The ZRN coating will keep the aluminum from sticking. Had coolant problem with doing some end-milling on a pocket, the coated endmill had a little hat of aluminum stuck on the very end that came off with almost no force. The AL might stick to it more without a coating.
>>1607780
yeah it will probably be ok

You should download Fusion 360 and play around with it too.
>>
Stan had to take down some more videos, damnit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Y03BEev-ck
>>
>>1607786
yes it's cnc. I'm using a 2d dynamic mill toolpath from mastercam, which I think is the same as 2d adaptive in fusion 360. I was going to do it on a haas super mini mill, but now I might have to do it on an ancient vf-0, if I can even get the program to fit on a floppy disk. I think the tool is only altin though. I bought a zrn tool for another operation and it's a different color. won't solid carbide crack if you manually spray coolant on it?
>>
>>1607789
Carbide cracking from coolant might have been true 30 years ago or more, but today I really wouldn't worry about it unless the coolant is very sporadic and the tool super hot.

The tool getting that hot in AL means melted aluminum in the flutes.
>>
>>1607789
If you're roughing using mastercam, you can easily drop the smoothing tolerances and reduce filesize if your controller has a hard time with big files.

>>1607791
correct, don't worry about cracking carbide with heat cycling and shit. it's fucking g2g m8, melted alu kills carbide 99.9999999% of the time
>>
Merica https://www.mmsonline.com/blog/post/the-global-machine-tool-boom-continues-except-in-china
>>
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>>1607853
Praise Omnissiah
>>
Do I need to spot drill my holes with a solid carbide drill bit?

What if the drill point geometry is like a gun drill, like the ones Stan uses?

>>1607787
^
>>
>>1607936
"multi-faceted" I think they call that geometry
>>
how would you go around to make this
its in metric aswell
>>
>>1607977
>It's in metric
No the fuck it isn't or this engineer needs to go back to college.
>>
>>1607977
Can we have another view? I can't tell if it's a cut or what's going on with it.
>>
How do I find the centerline of my lathe spindle for drilling on a cnc lathe? Can I use an edge finder in the spindle and a gage pin in a collect on the turret?
>>
>>1607977
what the fuck that line down the middle of the channel is a cut all the way through or something?

wire EDM?
>>
>>1608050
Indicator on spindle and indicate tool pocket
>>
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it worked
>>
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posting other stuff I did recently
>>
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>>1608174
Nice prostate massager bolt.

>>1608170
Nice, what machine? Also, please mill me a ak47 bend jig
>>
>>1604028
Is you Poe ?
>>
>>1608180
I used an old manual to make a bend jig once, been a long while since I've messed with it.

Any good designs out there reasonably easy to copy?
>>
>hit feed hold because I want to check my surface finish
>forget to actually stop the spindle
>touch endmill going 6000 rpm
>somehow only scratches fingernail instead of turning my hand into taco meat
thank you jesus for protecting my stupid ass
>>
>>1608270
No door safety switch?
>>
>>1608270
I did the same thing, but I touched the tool holder. Damn silent high-RPM spindles
>>
10% off VF-2 machines today?

https://www.haascnc.com/content/haascnc/en/build-and-price/choose-options.VF-2.html
>>
I wonder what the economics are of holding 1 or 2 parts on a 5-axis MX 330 with 10 pallets vs a horizontal machine with more parts per pallet?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n2DOfXh5CiI

This thing could be a dream to actually operate.
>>
>>1608298
25% off VM series is a much better deal. Comes standard with more stuff.
>>
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>>1608009
should be able to pull it off, i recon.
>>1608024
its a blade to hold a product that needs centerless grinding
>>
>>1608468
No, that first print is not metric, period. Whether or not that was intentional is irrelevant, it was drafted as inches and if it's calling the that metric, that engineer needs to go back to college. Besides that, .001mm requires hundreds of thousands in equipment to even inspect properly.
>>
>>1608507
Its in metric, ill let you know how it turns out
>>
Probably a shitty question and a shitty place to ask it so I apologize in advanced.

Are any of you guys aware of harbor freight doing memorial day sales? Looking to grab one of their lathes and if there's a slight chance I can get it cheaper in a couple weeks Ill wait, but if not Ill just go get it right now.
>>
>>1608603
>Looking to grab one of their lathes
Don't do it, buy old iron and buy something better than harbor freight. Seriously, the lathe I used from them was awful. Blew fuses like crazy and the handwheels were loose as fuck even with adjustments
>>
>>1608665
>>1608677
Not to be a dick but you guess are literally the first people I've seen of a few dozen reviews saying it's not worth the money. I'm only looking at the ~$200 wood lathe for small projects of. Naturally I'd get something much better if I ever got a metal lathe.
>>
>>1608692
This isnt the woodworking thread, this is the metalworking thread.
>>
>>1608695
There isnt a woodworking thread, also this is a machinist thread and Ill be using said machine.
>>
>>1608703
>There isnt a woodworking thread

Its comes and goes

>also this is a machinist thread
Which is generally synonymous with metalworking, especially when there usually is a woodworking thread.
Its not a coincidence that everyone assumed you meant a metal lathe

So you were quite right, this is a shitty place to ask that question.
>>
>>1608709
Well if there was a woodworking thread, which the last I saw was sometime in march, I would have asked there.

Instead I asked the only other place on /diy/ where anyone knows anything about lathes.
>>
>>1608713
I know a lot about metal lathes, as its my hobby and my career.
I cant tell you anything about woodworking lathes as they are nothing alike.

Sorry, maybe some other anons are well versed in both disciplines.
>>
>>1608602
>>1608507
.001" mm is about 40 millionths, that's about as much as you can reasonably measure without extremely specialized laboratory equipment and conditions. Even if you made a part that close to the dimension called for, it wouldn't stay there unless it was some dimensionally stable shit.
>>
󠛡 ▲
▲ ▲
>>
I wonder if 5-axis pallet changing cncs will still be relevant in 20 years?
>>
Hey that guy that said his wire keeps breaking, it's because the EDM machine isn't spooling the wire down fast enough for your feed rate.
>>
>>1608832
I turned the feed rate down to like .0025 and it mostly worked but took forever. is it possible that the wire was getting stuck because the head hasn't been cleaned in forever?
>>
>>1608844
i donnow
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7YzEoOtOAgg

lol the only guy on youtube i feel sorry for, because his shop is so shitty it's worse than mine.
>>
https://roemheld-usa.com/learning/power-workholding/

oof, carr-lane has their own vise line
>>
Does anyone here have a multifix tool post?

Would you be willing to model it?
>>
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Anyone know if there's a reason the V on the underside of my chicom G0752 saddle would be more than 90 degrees when the V way on the ways is exactly 90?
>>
>>1608930
each one of those ridges is like 2.5 thou too btw
>>
>>1608930
That's horrible.
I could flame cut smoother than that
>>
>>1608994
Yeah it was pretty bad. I have just ground it on my harig though.

Much better now, and a nice cross-hatch pattern on the part I side-wheeled. Getting that thing set up on the sine plate was a pain. Laid a parallel across that sorry excuse for "scraping" to get something approximating the geometry.
>>
>>1608692
>>1608703
>>1608713
Why don't you start a wood working thread or go to the random questions thread?
>>
>>1609015
Looks like they cut it with a dull cutter and be done with it.
>>
>>1608800
More than likely, or gantry robots will be big again
>>
I wonder if anyone has experimented with a cycloidal spindle?
>>
>>1600538
KC850 will cut it
>>
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I've started the presumably very long project of cleaning and repainting my SN32, with the tailstock. I have very little idea about what I'm doing so I'd like some input on the process.
>complete disassembly
>roughly scrape off large residue with some alu pieces I had laying around
>with parts that don't have too many crevices, pressure wash
>wipe off water
>wipe whatever oil and grime left on it with acetone
>sand painted areas with 80 grit random orbit sander (the uncovered side facing the camera was painted, even though it was a machined surface)
>check machined bearing/contact surfaces for any major damage, stone over parts that look suspicious with stone of unknown grit I found in a drawer
eventually
>paint with 2 in 1 paint
>reapply lubricants
>reassemble

I have no means of checking the surfaces for straightness or correcting wear, so I plan to leave that alone. I've spotted some ~.3mm grooves in one part of the tailstock's main bearing surface, that's the worst I've seen so far.

>should I replace oil/lube everywhere I can?
>what kind of grease should be used?
I have a bunch of new lithium grease around.
>when I disassembled some of the parts, but only some of the parts, the oil on them really foul, why is that?
It was mainly in the deep insides of the tailstock's main body and 4 random screws located somewhat deep.
>how long can I leave important bearing surfaces un-oiled?
If possible I'd rather paint many things at once, but if days or weeks of sitting around clean might mess up the surfaces, I'll just paint more frequently.
>>
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>>1609616
This was the contact surface between the two main blocks of the tailstock, after cleaning. Lightly stoned the bottom edge, had some shit residue and a bit of paint.
>>
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>>1609617
Part of the tailstock clamp.
>>
>>1609616
moly-D
>>
>>1609629
On all surfaces? I recall reading something about moly being better for this, pure lithium better for that, but I forgot which was which.
>>
>>1609632
lithium dries out right?

I wouldn't bother with lithium grease.
>>
>tfw green button monkey
>tfw 14 second cycle time
>tfw make 350 parts a day give or take
>700 cycles a day

How do you guys remind yourself that the grind is worth it?

I say to myself that the money gets me

1. Place to live that isn't my parents
2. A girlfriend (no girls wanna be with some broke dude)
3. The experience and work will pay off in the future in helping launch my machining career.

I can't wait to do something that isn't threading 1" pipe and 1" 3'4' pipe all day.
>>
>>1609922
Time is better spent figuring out how to advance in your company then perhaps.
>>
>>1609935
I'm eventually going to be moving into the quality control department doing inspections/CNC operating every other week switching with a coworker.

I figure this is a good first machining job, especially as there is no machining department besides 1 CNC lathe and 1 CNC bandsaw

So basically I can't really move up besides this and I figure I'll probably leave in 8-12 months time when I have more machining experience from my schooling under my belt. I really wish I could stay with my company, but the vast majority of work done is assembly.
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YDXNHAZEBiA
>>
>>1609645
Moly is still usually lithium grease, just with moly added. I think drying just depends on other components and additives used, as well as the frequency of re-mixing from movement of parts. Problem with moly is that if it does dry out, it will fuck up all your bearing surfaces because it becomes an abrasive.
>>
>>1610023
Still a lot slower than our primitive pete, Hope it git gud soon.
>>
>>1609922
>How do you guys remind yourself that the grind is worth it?
This might sound weird but I go back playing video game that I used to play when I was NEET and it reminded me how far I've come.
>>
>>1609922
I remember coming in one day and having to run a robodrills with a 7 second cycle. You unloaded it, reloaded it, started it, checked two distinct features of the unloaded part in microscope, gauge pinned a hole, put the part in the egg carton tray. The cycle would end a second or two later so you'd grab a fresh part to load and wait for the door to unlock.

At the end my mind was blank, I was a serene entity in unison with the machine, a perfect autistic meat robot. Praise the Omnissiah.
>>
>>1610155
jesus you boys need bigger pallets or something

please tell me it was at least palletized work holding
>>
>>1610160
Nah it was a mickey mouse shit operation. I left it soon after to work at another business that let me do programming and full setups like I was capable of doing.

It was just a cool experience to have happen once. Daily? I may be autistic but I'm not that autistic.
>>
What do you guys sharpen your drill bits with?

I bought a drill doctor 750X and it was complete and utter dog shit so I returned it.
>>
>>1610333
you were too stupid to use a drill doctor?
>>
>>1610333
I have a 750X and it works pretty good.
>>
>>1610350
lol

>>1610356
I found that the motor is weak, the collet is not repeatable, the body of the machine flexes badly when you use it. Especially when you are putting a split point on anything bigger than a 1/4. Not to mention its main grinding function is going to wear out rather quickly.

I should have known better. We have grinding machines at work, but they get weird when you use them off the clock.

I used the drill checker, some of the drills lip to lip tolerances were so bad I thought the drills themselves were fucking bent.
Of course the second I resharpened them, the primaries were back within .0005 or so.

I dont really want to spend the money on a TDR/SRD or something similar, but I dont think there is much in between really.
>>
>>1609922
>How do you guys remind yourself that the grind is worth it?
I don't, my brain clocks out after like 2 hours of that shit. I was hired right out of college to do setups at a job shop so thankfully I get maybe two weeks a year of that shit.
>>
>>1609922
>convinced myself it would lead to a better machining job, in a better shop, making more money
>after a while you realize that you would still be grinding for someone else, albeit in a different way

Ive been saving up every single penny and looking at different avenues to become financially independent. Start enough side gigs, one of them will take off right?
>>
>>1610387
That's the idea. Every successful person owns businesses and real estate. A lot of them absolutely love credit too.
>>
is it normal to ream a hole for a tap drill size on a 3A thread fit?
>>
>>1610457
3B sorry
>>
>>1610387
btw you could try drop-shipping as a side gig too.

or you could just do the usual buy low sell elsewhere high thing, make an amazon seller account and ebay and all the rest
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7fETcsH2m5E

another safety vidya
>>
Wow these Walter Titex A1148-no31 drills are amazing for aluminum.

High helix drill, bright (looks finely ground) finish, the tip geometry is rounded instead of a straight angle and the split point grooves are unique too.

If you guys are drilling aluminum these have worked awesomely.

3x diameter drills
https://www.walter-tools.com/en-gb/search/pages/default.aspx?m=5057074#/product/A1148-NO31
>>
>>1610333
Surface grinder, No kidding.
Dressed wheel is pleasant to sharpen drill on.
>>
>>1610457
What the fuck no, thread fit is determined by the tap, not drill size.
>>
>>1610333
I have/had one of these. I bashed all the plastic off and just use it free hand now. Works aight.
>>
How do you guys scrape small stuff? I'm not really getting into tight corners with my normal scraper (about 1" wide). Also how do i scrape the bottom of a narrow box way channel? Is there any other way than pull scraping?
>>
>>1610628
What scraper are you using? I have only dabbled.
>>
>>1610614
>thread fit percentage is not determined by the hole size

my ass
>>
>>1610635
It literally is not. If you want a class 3 thread you need to use a class 3 tap.
>>
>>1610652
Yep that's a part of it, but it will still be shit if you have the wrong hole size.
>>
gotteswinter's mini lathe

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1ytS1lhVFg
>>
>>1610652
>>1610614
>>1610653

You two are arguing different points here, in my limited knowledge thread fit/class and thread "percentage" are not the same thing although they are slightly related, actual thread specs for internal threads will specify a range for the permissible minor diameter which results in threads with a flat top rather than a point (100% thread), for example for 1/2-13, (tenths omitted to make things less messy);

>1A 0.434"- 0.417"
>2A 0.434"- 0.417"
>3A 0.428"- 0.417"

Most drill/tap charts that claim to have a "75%" thread will specify a 27/64" drill bit which if everything goes perfectly would put you at a minor diameter of 0.422" which gives you some room for error if the drill runs large, if you run with the recommend drill for a "50%" thread (29/64) it puts you at 0.453" which blows out your tolerance for even 1A threads. That being said there's also a pitch diameter tolerance so even if your hole is on size the pitch diameter can still be wrong, and on top of that if you're using GO/NOGO gauges to inspect threads they only check pitch diameter, not minor, a 50% thread done with a good tap will appear to be in spec with the appropriate thread gauges but the minor diameter will be miles out of spec.

The reason that that they're having you use a reamer is to make 100% sure the minor diameter is in tolerance, where I work the tolerances for a drilled 1/2" hole are generally +0.008", -0.002" which represents the extreme maximum and minimum values that you can expect to see. For a 3A thread with a 27/64" drill based on those margins you could potentially be out of spec by two thou, most of the time your drills will hold much better sizes but if you're not measuring each hole the reamer is a pretty sure bet.
>>
>>1610808
yeah even with the 3A/3B tap if you don't have as much contact as you should (50% thread hole or similar) then it will still have more play and be crappier than it should.

I don't actually use a reamer, I was just wondering if that's something people actually do.
>>
This is good shit if you want to learn some surface grinder basics.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjz0Zt76GJ4
>>
http://mifco.com/foundry-furnaces/center-pivot-tilting-melters/

someday
>>
>>1611022
Shit, no free lunches. Electric furnaces produce better castings.

http://www.rayteq.com/documents/Gas-Fired_vs._Electric_Resistance_Melting.pdf

>tfw 5k/month light bill
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0i64R9XjAho

small scraper
>>
>>1600486
>>>1600483 (OP)
>Contributions
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qq5dFeBhvRQ
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPIkPGqjBCc
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABeio9yOtkI
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_gJ0PDWs0iU
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQ332KGc-6M
>https://www.natool.com/engineering-data/tap-style-guide
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=92ztzCP76ho
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WN1usZ2K8xI
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EeKreZqgi9M
>https://metalcutting.com/%E2%80%ACwire%E2%80%AD-%E2%80%ACcut%E2%80%AD-%E2%80%ACedm-advantages-disadvantages/
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hrWskHpk3oo
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbMbFvsRTJo
>>abom79 is a good channel for manual machining and good "big old iron" work
>https://www.youtube.com/user/Abom79
>>ThisOldTony provides great videos in the range of hobby garage machining
>https://www.youtube.com/user/featony
>>Clickspring shows what can be done with truly rudimentary tools
>https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCworsKCR-Sx6R6-BnIjS2MA
>>Robrenz is a wealth of high precision machining, toolmaking, and metrology
>https://www.youtube.com/user/ROBRENZ/
>>Joe Pieczynski has good tips for the budding machinist on a variety of topics mostly related to manual machining
>https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCpp6lgdc_XO_FZYJppaFa5w
>>NYC CNC is half-decent most of the time if you can get past the tormach shilling bullshit
>https://www.youtube.com/user/saunixcomp
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CX92C3klOiY

>>1600486
Im running around reporting people for fun its hilarious
>>
>>1611037

>>1610815
Reported you
>>
I need some aid guys. I’m trying to turn some 4140 steel with HSS tooling. For my cut depth and part diameter I figured I need between 700-900 rpm on my spindle, but because of my pulleys I can run at 550 or 1040.

Anyways, I was able to face my part well enough but turning down the diameter is a bit difficult, on one pass at .015” depth of cut, my chips turn blue almost instantly, and my tool appears to give off very small sparks. I imagine the sparks are from my tool grinding away, because during the pass, by the time I moved .5” along the bed, my tool tip was rounded off and a .007” gap had developed between the tool tip and the initial depth of cut.

Any tips to prevent this kind of wear? Im I running with too high of ω, is my feed rate too high, is my cut depth too ambitious, do you think its my tool geometry, or is this just how cutting 4140 with HSS is?

I have to turn down over a quarter inch on the radius for 1.125” of length. At this rate I’m going to use a foot of HSS tooling...
>>
>>1611223
And yes, that was a freshly sharpened tip right before I made this cut
>>
>>1611223
too big radius on the tool, not high enough feed to break the chip, chip probably transfers heat through the string and turns blue.

if the part is heating up your speeds and feeds are bad.
>>
>>1611223
and to my eye looks like not enough depth of cut
>>
>>1611223
For HSS and 4140 at your diameter, spin slower, 300 rpm max, slower if your chips are turning brown. You'll want them to be light yellow at most, coolant helps here.

Your issue was not really doc/feed, you just burnt your HSS so it dulled and caused your problems. Look at how your cut starts nice and goes to shit soon after.
>>
>>1611223
Also, spinning much slower (200rpm to 300) will let you increase your doc a lot. You can turn down pounds and pounds of 4140 with HSS using deeper doc, decent feed, and slow rpm without ever needing to really sharpen your tool.
>>
>>1611274
>>1611270
I thought for 4140 with HSS you want to run about 200 ft/min. With the equation ω=12*S/(d*π), I am calculating about 600 rpm. I’ll try slowing it down and see if it does better though. I’m going to also adjust my grind profile a little to get the chips to break more reliably. I also grabbed a set of hazard fraught carbide tools but my machine cant run even close to fast enough to really use them. Still I guess its a backup option.

Ill let you know if the slower speed helps with my hss consumption
>>
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hope this is the right thread. I bought the panavise 1/4 ton arbor on the left. It came with these other pieces, but I have no idea what they are for - Can anyone point me in the right direction?
>>
>>1611322
Where did you get those numbers? I've cut shittons of 4140 with HSS, taking cuts of 0.25" off the radius at whatever the old little lathe could suffer doing 60 to 90 sfm dependant on coolant and feed.

With carbide, 200 to maybe 400 is fairly normal, some tools can go faster so look up the speeds/feeds from the specific tooling manufacturers.
>>
>>1610808
class of fit is based on pitch diameter. the minor diameter given on a chart is only for reference.
>>
>>1611352
Even with a closer shaft-thread to hole-thread fit if 50% of the hole part is missing you get shit contact though
>>
>>1611354
like the screw will bend and flex more in the hole because only 50% of that good thread fit is available
>>
>>1606479
My production shop uses hocut 795, only issues seem to be a huge cube worth costs 12k, and that it foams a certain amount but that can be managed with anti-foam.
>>
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>>1611340
Reference book at school for the machine shop. Here is what I copied out of the book for my use with hss.
>>
>>1611340
But that said i made the adjustments yall suggested and check it out! 2 passes of 30, then 40 thou down successfully with nice short chips. No heat issues! The finish isnt as nice but overall its a massive upgrade. Thanks a bunch yall.
>>
>>1611362
That looks much nicer. Bigger radius on the HSS would help with the surface finish and you could probably take even deeper passes.

Remember, sfm is only recommendations, always actually think about what your results are/what the chip looks like/what the part looks like.
>>
>>1611382
Thank you for all of your help, Im sure I’ll have more questions.

On another note, I know its bad form and dangerous, but I just cut a 0.060”x101” chip of 4140 lmao
>>
>>1611411
Yeah that happens, I remember one time I was running a finish pass on a fairly long shaft that resulted in a chip that was 25-30ft long, as long as you can keep it flowing away from the tool/chuck with a chip hook there's no real reason to try to break it.
>>
>>1611411
I usually kick off the power feed for a second then start it back up again to break the long string if it isn't a finish pass.
>>
>>1611336
They look pretty handy whatever they end up being.

Riveting attachment perhaps? Punch press attachment? Who knows.
>>
>>1611362
still not quite like the brochure, they should be "C" or "6" shaped
>>
>>1611362
chip looks like a dick
>>
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Non-machinist here. I want to learn about springs so I can better choose them for projects that require very particular levels of spring pressure. Can anyone direct me toward or recommend sources of info for something like this?
>>
>>1611622
youtube
this old tony springs
>>
>>1611622
that's more of an engineering question
>>
>>1611458
yeah I guess, would be good to know for what though :) I feel like the circular ones are probably something standard - but no idea what to even search under.
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9mf7uwEUavM

fucking drilltap machines

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2QG_t4uXHxk

and stan shows off some tools, and switches to Fusion 360 !
>>
rreeeee!

Fucking power keeps blinking. Blinked once at 6:30 and again at 6:35AM.

Fucking Mexicants are probably out stealing the copper again.
>>
Alright, got my $100 chinese sine plate lapped and ground. Roundness on the rods is pretty damn good, less than a tenth. Thing came with burrs all over the round rods, a swing mechanism that was too tight to actually use, and over half a thou out over the 6 inch square.
>>
>>1611871
Where did you find that?
>>
>>1611811
So that's why those 6 flutes are so expensive
>>
>>1611915
ebay

https://www.ebay.com/itm/181681989449

it is not really usable for grinding when you get it though.
>>
>>1611915
and yes the clamping holes in it are 1/4-20, but the assembly screws are metric something or another that the 1/4-20 hex wrench fits in so don't lose them when you take it apart to fix it.
>>
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>>1609616
Finally got the lathe inside, with a pallet jack and nylon wheels as well as a minitractor to pull it up on a small incline.
Did some measurements on it, and the bed ways are evidently a bit fucked near the chuck. Pic related is what it looks like, I measured vertical movement against an intact surface and the carriage sinks about 50um/2 thou over 20cm. Is that bad enough to warrant resurfacing the ways?
Also the crossslide is out of square by about 50um over 15cm, but apparently lathes are supposed to be somewhat out of square on the crossslide.
>>
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>>1611922
which direction is the cross-slide out of square? would it turn a concave or convex shape on the end of a part?

It's supposed to turn a concave part, if it was convex then that's bad.

The ways being low doesn't actually translate to that much change on the part diameter because it's moving the tool at an angle. My P&W ways are the same way and it's still pretty damn accurate.
>>
>>1611915
and if you end up buying one, I would personally just put the side screws in and put rubber bands between the upper part screws and lower part screws to hold it down.
>>
>>1611915
oh, and it isn't very hard.
>>
>>1611930
It seems to be convex, the distance of the toolpost increases from the chuck as it moves in towards the center.
I checked lateral movement on the ways and it's about 40um over 20cm, I guess it's not too bad. Only thing I don't like is how rough the surface of it is, the ridges on it are pretty big.
>>
>>1611941
well don't do anything to it until you turn some parts
>>
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>>1611943
I won't, it'll probably be a week or two before I get power hooked up. In the meantime I'm just taking it apart and sanding everything.
What's the switch next to the spindle for? It doesn't seem to be touching anything, it's like 1cm away from the closest part of the spindle, regardless of mounting a chuck.
>>
>>1611954
probably the e-stop switch for the guard that is missing

that plastic cover thing that goes over the spindle, safety cover.
>>
>>1611954
no way you got a multifix with it too?

would you be willing to 3d model it for me to copy? I want to make my own.

and I would make sure the oil system is working, if it actually has one that pumps oil instead of oilers that slowly drip oil onto the ways and stuff.

Looks like a nice old industrial lathe.
>>
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>>1611955
Oh yeah, that makes sense. I guess it's shorted over inside the electric box. The seller wasn't using the guard, I don't particularly want to, either. I do have it though.
>>1611956
Yeah, came with that and 5 toolholders.
I could, but why specifically a 3D model? Also I only have a 25mm micrometer for now, anything larger than that I can only measure with a caliper.
The oil system seemed to be working going by the oil windows when I tested it, some parts of the system are powered, others unpowered. I'll get to it eventually, probably going to change oil anyway.
It was made in '98, it's not even very old. But it probably hasn't been overhauled in those 20 years, although some of the big screws on the back were scratched up.
>>
>>1611961
well I guess a drawing would be okay but that would probably be more work

caliper measurements are fine, you don't get a full set of engineering tolerances with measuring an existing part anyway.
>>
>>1611974
Alright, I'll see what I can do.
>>
>>1612003
I will be very grateful.
>>
>>1610628
I have a few Plain carbon steel scraper that are perfect for small dovetails but they dull easily in chinky cast iron, you best bet is make a brazed carbide tool.

If you're on facebook feel free to add me as 4chan is intermittently blocked here in aus and I'm too lazy to use a proxy, There's also a private scraping chat for people to discuss their problems when rebuilding machinetools I can add you to
(Marcus Hugh Christensen)
>>
new thread

>>1612513



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