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File: THREAD MILL.jpg (209 KB, 772x432)
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I don't have the damn OP text so sod off.
>>
>>1573498
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3dAe8ZaROh0
>>
>>1573498
https://www.tormach.com/blog/chip-thinning-cut-aggressively/

remember to keep the tools loaded
>>
>>1573498
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ProB4LpswPA

EDM intro video
>>
they got this cool thing called archive

Contributions:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qq5dFeBhvRQ [Embed]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPIkPGqjBCc [Embed]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABeio9yOtkI [Embed]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_gJ0PDWs0iU [Embed]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQ332KGc-6M [Embed]
https://www.natool.com/engineering-data/tap-style-guide
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=92ztzCP76ho [Embed]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WN1usZ2K8xI [Embed]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EeKreZqgi9M [Embed]
https://metalcutting.com/%E2%80%ACwire%E2%80%AD-%E2%80%ACcut%E2%80%AD-%E2%80%ACedm-advantages-disadvantages/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hrWskHpk3oo [Embed]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbMbFvsRTJo [Embed]
>abom79 is a good channel for manual machining and good "big old iron" work
https://www.youtube.com/user/Abom79
>ThisOldTony provides great videos in the range of hobby garage machining
https://www.youtube.com/user/featony
>Clickspring shows what can be done with truly rudimentary tools
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCworsKCR-Sx6R6-BnIjS2MA
>Robrenz is a wealth of high precision machining, toolmaking, and metrology
https://www.youtube.com/user/ROBRENZ/
>Joe Pieczynski has good tips for the budding machinist on a variety of topics mostly related to manual machining
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCpp6lgdc_XO_FZYJppaFa5w
>NYC CNC is half-decent most of the time if you can get past the tormach shilling bullshit
https://www.youtube.com/user/saunixcomp
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CX92C3klOiY [Embed]
>>
and maybe https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Zy3yElAWwI [Embed]
and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w1oASjbm2F8 [Embed]
and https://www.youtube.com/user/Threadexpress
and this guy does aluminum and steel casting (cool) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzaz39hUUKM [Embed]
and for old iron and restoring it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nc5Z_Mo2J0Y&t=0s [Embed]
and this guy isn't particularly funny, but sometimes interesting https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l4vaszLFBOE [Embed]
and stefan gotteswinter https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJgXH6K9GIU&t=1s [Embed]
and another guy that does metal castings https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5pu3hJ7SZE [Embed]
and watch this redneck build a million dollar business in his barn https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4aP3SIWIVlY&t=0s [Embed]
and this guy isn't too big an idiot https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fDJOJSBXswo [Embed]
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCCkSr3M8GXbS4txqPY7OMxQ/featured
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXoG9uEMIpA [Embed]
http://www.cnc1.com/files/PDF/FANUC-CNC-Specifications/Fanuc_0i-MD_Standard_Features_and_Options.pdf
http://www.sharp-industries.com/sites/default/files/parts-book/FANUC%20Series%20Oi%20%26%20Oi%20Mate%20Model%20D%20-%20PARAMETER%20MANUAL.pdf
http://www.sharp-industries.com/sites/default/files/parts-book/FANUC%20Series%20Oi%20%26%20Oi%20Mate%20Model%20D%20%28VMC%29%20-%20OPERATORS%20MANUAL.pdf
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=poOngCE7tyM [Embed]
https://www.youtube.com/user/AndersonPrototypes/videos
https://www.youtube.com/user/artisandice/videos
https://www.youtube.com/user/jhawkdesign/videos?sort=dd&shelf_id=0&view=0
https://www.youtube.com/user/l0ckcr4ck3r/videos
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCuusVnkjtCWzO5FHLNsDxRg
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6QfeDvhEuA5DiUoypF9OYw/videos
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7BdO8koXBLWmzjYLT2aSoA/videos
https://www.youtube.com/user/tjzelick/videos
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9BOdwByzXls [Embed]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wIEi1ElHa6w [Embed]
>>
http://tachino.o.oo7.jp/index.html
this one is toptier diy and even in 2018 he post pics like hes on a 56k
http://www.ibara.ne.jp/~ymnr/index.htm
this one is good too
http://mecha-tech.la.coocan.jp/index-e.html
http://www.eonet.ne.jp/~mmf/index.html
http://mini-senban.com/mini-senban/
http://secsuzuki.blog19.fc2.com/
http://sec-suzuki.com/
https://jisakuyaro.com/
>>
Still thinking about the cobalt drill bits, almost bought a DeWalt 14pc set just to keep around before going with a big set (I’m trying to avoid HF). Then I realized that I could drill wood for ages with the things, but how am I supposed to sharpen them after some holes in steel?
>>
>>1574324
You don't use those for steel.
>>
>>1574324
with dewalts you can sharpen a normal drill point onto the first half inch or so, but the meat of the spiral gets thicker towards the base so if you snap one halfway down it's trashed.
>>
>>1573498
Man, I work in the place that makes those little fuckers. When we test new geometry or carbide we'll smash through close to 10 or 15 in day. Love threadmills.
>>
>>1574349
Then why the hell is their set of cobalt bits like that?
>>
https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/blog/march-11-2019-product-update-whats-new/

Fusion 360 has tapered threads now!
>>
>>1574410
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/81184293

there ye go
>>
>>1574413
>$150 for HSS
Meh, I’m gonna destroy this $30 MKE set first. I will probably snap every bit under 3/8” immediately because cobalt.

Anyway there are some good prices on Amazon for bits. Norsemen and a few other decent brands, ~$100 for a 29pc cobalt set.
>>
>>1574419
okay then
>>
also more control over thread timing in fusion 360 now, this update is pretty impressive
>>
>>1574390
>smash through 15 hundred dollar thread mills in a day
>>
>>1574437
Eventually I want to get a 115pc index. And I have a feelingwhen I NEED a #44 or G bit because 64ths won’t work, it’s going to be in metal. So I want to mess around with the cobalt bits as well as sharpening HSS bits and see if it’s worth spending the $$$ on a reputable 115pc cobalt set.

Also pic related just went on sale but it isn’t sold in stores otherwise I probably woulda grabbed it.
>>
>>1574456
subscribing to a cloud is morally wrong.
>>
>>1574607
yes anon cloud storage = bad

just like orange man = bad

good npc
>>
>>1574607
i will admit I wish fusion had an offline mode. maybe they will make it available for lump-sum purchase?
>>
>>1574475
Turns out good quality HSS bits cut bretty gud if I haven’t totally fucked up the bit before starting the hole. And I only snapped one bit!
>>
-Started off a machinist
-Learned on mastercam
-Went to surfcam as a dedicated NC programmer for a couple years 2014 vr2 ... oh my god the crashes...
- switched to 2017vr2 ..oh my god the solid works updates never work, along with crashes.
- Changed jobs and now have to work with prototrak controls ... fuck my life ...

That said they are putting in cam works module for solid works. What type of hell am I in for?
>>
>>1574668
it would be $600 like autocad
>>
>>1574850
That's a lot less than I expected.
>>
>>1574667
I voted for the orange man because I care about guns and taxes.
All the orange man has done was fuck over my tax return and outright allow the ban of bumpstocks.
>>
>>1574390
Do you work for a big manufacturer, or are you like a small shop?
I know places like Harvey and Gorillamill are relatively small shops.
>>
>>1574856
>harvey
>small shop

Ehhhh they smake small tools, but not what I would call small.
>>
>>1574324
Why are you still shitting up the machinist threads with questions about non machinist garbage?
"Pilot points" like that
and
>>1574410
"chipbreakers" aka a fucking notched split point like these are not for putting in machine tools. They are for idiots who dont know how to use a hand drill who walk crappy and dull drill bits. Its a crutch for starting a hole, at the expense of losing 30-50% of your actual cutting edge.

Fucking trash
Also both are variable helix which is also fucking trash. The fast helix near the point is only good for aluminum and wood, the slow helix near the back is only good for steels.
AKA it will eject aluminum great in the bottom of your hole but poorly near the back where it matters. And it will be poor at steel at the point of cut which wont give it the push it needs when it hits the slow helix.

>>1574475
> And I have a feelingwhen I NEED a #44 or G bit because 64ths won’t work

You arent a machinist, you arent going to need it. And when you do, the cheap fuck set you buy youll realize its not actually a 44 or a G.

Also what makes you think HSS is not a suitable tool steel?
You do realize the cheap m35 cobalts you are looking at are only slightly harder than a proper HSS?
In cases like Milwaukee its literal marketing wank
>>
>>1574861
Ah, for some reason I was under the impression Harvey was pretty small.
>>
>>1574864
I still somewhat agree with anon who said that on a hand drill with chuck wobble and shit, it’s barely worth going more precise than 64ths because it will never drill that true. I won’t do the good 115pc or letters-numbers until I have the drill press.

And the Milwaukee wank, probably true. They gotta be a little better than the TiN bits but I’m sure not machinist grade. I didn’t pay machinist money for em either because I will likely fuck them up. There was a Bosch M42 15pc set at Lowe’s for $30, and it was supposed to be in stock, but then I went to the store and they were in the process of replacing 75% of their tool stock with new Stanley Craftsman and the Bosch cobalt bits were nowhere to be found.
>>
>>1574870
>They gotta be a little better than the TiN bits but I’m sure not machinist grade.

There is no such thing as "machinist grade" and "better" is misleading.

Its like everything else in the tooling world.
You need to match your tooling to what material you are machining.
Your helix, your tip geometry, your flute polish/coating/lack thereof, your tool material all matter.

HSS bits can drill through stainless steel if you arent a retard and understand work hardening.

There is a reason that you see HSS, Jobber length, 118 drills everywhere. Because as long as you arent an idiot they are ok at pretty much everything.
Thats also the reason literally everyone has told you to just get them and be done. Hell even 135 split points of you dont want to do wood.

The nuances are lost on you because you arent buying tools to match your production, or even for hobby machining work.
You are buying drills to punch holes in garbage.
>>
>>1574882
People shit on HSS because they do not understand SFM and chip load. I have met butchers working production that run every drill regardless of size at 1k and a feed of 1. It's mind numbing to watch. Then they get even worse when they try to hand sharpen drills cause "i'm a machinist and all machinists can hand sharpen drills".

to everyone who doesn't know:
(3.82 / (via of drill)) * surface footage of material = RPM

RPM * cutting flutes (2 for a drill) * chip load = feed in IPM

these 2 equations are the holy grail of tool life. use them.
>>
>>1574882
>you arent buying tools to match your production
This is correct because I would have to be producing something for that to be the case.

What is the difference between the angles, like 135 and 118 or 112? Which is better at what? Seems like they advertise the sharper angles to reduce walking but I center punched the stuff and didn’t have that issue.

Edit- I just read a quick comparison and they seem to say 135 split point is better for basically everything except they’re more difficult to sharpen. Is this true?
>>
>>1574892
118 is 100 year old technology that was established because consistent tool steel was iffy at the time. With modern metallurgy we can switch from a fat chisel point to a sharper pointed drill with less fear of the drill breaking due to crappy material. Thats all it really is. 118 has a fat web for strength. 135 has a cleared out center point for less pressure needed drill.
>>
>>1574891
I swear, some places need to hide the bench grinder from their machinist.

People putting like 0.090 thou chamfers on endmills to try and get a few more parts out of them.
Putting 90 degree chisel points on drills. The complete lack of understanding what web thinning is or does, so people put something that looks cool on the bit but doesnt actually add clearance. When it comes time to resharpen you have to chop off half an inch off the tip because its ruined the geometry.

Dont get me started on fucking shops that use their tools HARD, but refuse to put proper coatings on their carbide. Then are surprised their regrinds dont last.

Its baffling how some shops can stay in business with how inept people seem.
>>
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>>1574895
This is true
Not only that the roll point needed a steeper angle to cut better.

Look at the tip of a regular roll point. The big chisel point is not sharp, it doesnt really cut. It brute forces material out of the way until the cutting edges can hit and cut. It needed to be somewhat steep.
The ancient powers that be decided that 118 was a good middle ground for strength and angle to actually move material.

The split point, same principle applies, but its chisel is much smaller and walks less. And with the big chisel problem gone, you can put a more shallow angle on the cutting edge.

The shallower angles help cut metal better, all around a better metal cutting drill.

The fact that 118 roll point DOES cut metal ok and it cuts wood ok is why its still around. Even though ideally youd have 135 split points for metal and Brad points for wood.
>>
>>1574892
>135 split point is better for basically everything except they’re more difficult to sharpen. Is this true?

Better for metal. And for how difficult it is to resharpen?
Depends on how tight of a tolerance you need and what you are sharpening it with.

A split point is nothing but a roll point that had a second gash operation done to it.

You can webthin and split any regular roll point drill bit on your bench grinder.
How "good" its going to be depends on if you have man hands, and what you plan to punch holes in.
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sykjB7fS1Po
>>
Ok guys I got a good thinker for you. How can I modify a 9" southbend lathe to rifle barrels? The obvious solution is to modify the change gear stack to accomplish 10:1-16:1 ish ratios so the machine essentially works as a broach w/ regulated barrel rotation around the broaching tool.

Maybe strip the change gear stack and add a coupler on the change gear side of the spindle shaft. Have the coupler attach it to a helical gear box and couple the output to the power screw on the lathe. Alternatively, I could add an isolated power feed drive.

Either way obviously each pass could only take off a tiny amount, probably like 3-5 thou per pass. The other issue is obviously the tool. Obviously a modified boring bar is the best bet, but idk why rigid one would be with the required aspect ratio.

Any thoughts?
>>
>>1574916
>man hands
Is this going to be a problem? My fish always look smaller in pics when they’re held in my bear paws. So I should buy 100pks of 1/4” bits and toss em when they get dull?
>>
>>1575364
There are a few ways to do this, at least.

mount the cutter to a long thin rod supported at both ends, I would try a tool steel version before springing for a carbide one just because of price. Hell even a mild steel one might tell you what you need to know. Don't get killed trying to turn it, thin pieces turn into death flails quickly. This video illustrates that well, guy trying to turn a long piece in his rapid-turn on a tormach--luckily he didn't get hurt but it thrashed the shit out of his guards.

https://youtu.be/xdmGYjGcaI0?t=1585
It might just be easier to make a device to rotate the barrel at a certain speed sitting on the cross-slide, then use the spindle for indexing, then you have the rifling rod mounted between centers and stationary, and using the ways and carriage traverse to move.

Nope, it's just easier to rig a servo motor to the spindle and carriage traverse, then your in-feed is the cross-slide (manual). As a bonus you have a partial CNC conversion then.
>>
Damn this hits close to home

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4ljwKvjcT0
>>
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>>1575551
>ave
"No"
>>
>>1575364
Bore the holes on the lathe
Cut the rifling using a Rifle Button on a hydraulic press.
>>
>>1575364
What kind of gunsmithing do you plan to do?
Ive always wanted to build a revolver or something like that.
>>
>>1575617
DIY handgun designs, not for commercial use I'm just a gun nut with an engineering degree.

I'm thinking I want to start with a really goofy single shot derringer.
>>
>>1575621
barrel blanks are pretty cheap, and then you just ream the chamber.

could painstakingly nail all the angles on a chamber reamer, or have a CNC guy do it, then turn your rifled blank to the sizes you want and ream the chamber (slowly).

remember you can in fact attach grinding wheels to milling spindles and use them as less accurate grinders.
>>
>>1575621
DIY designs sound cool, ive just considered copying existing designs to be "safer". As least in the beginning.
Sticking with 22lr and such
>>
>>1575626
If I'm going to burn thousands of dollars to built meme handguns I will never use outside of a range, I want to go all the way and start with barstock myself. Machinists in the 1850s could make derringers on far more primitive machines than I have access to, it is doable.

Rifling is tough because they either didn't bother or used very specialized machines that are extremely rare and expensive now, which is why I am trying to find a way to do it on the cheap.
>>
>>1575632
I mean we are primarily talking about thick walled pressure vessels with dynamic loading, which can be calculated by hand in about an hour or using ansys in a few minutes. The fun part of the design process will be the firing mechanisms which will be far more interesting, but at least with a single shot derringer not especially hazardous as you don't need to worry about a runaway.
>>
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>>1575633
I agree, if you are going to build a toy gun, why wouldnt you just build the barrel too?

>Rifling is tough because they either didn't bother or used very specialized machines that are extremely rare and expensive now, which is why I am trying to find a way to do it on the cheap.

Look up "rifling buttons"
They are form tools. You ream your barrel, then you press the button through the barrel. It spins on its own, forming the rifling.

Its cheap and quick, and any non "hammer forged" barrels are pretty much buttom formed.

You can buy chinese buttons for like $15 on amazon
>>
>>1575633
sine bar rifling machine, you will probably have to build the components to convert your lathe to one
>>
>>1575633
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0AKW-K4RyXo

this guy apparently did it already
>>
>>1575648
Fuck yeah! I'm going to shoot him a message and ask if he would be comfortable sharing his cad.
>>
>>1575648
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_yemjfgkE0&list=PL_UkNPv3LycZ3zpEQbF1aATNfuzGH3bW1

whole playlist related
>>
>>1575651
i think it might actually be a girl

>>1575651
also, grabcad might have a lot of relevant stuff. I have a cnc mill and manual lathe and am confident I could manufacture all the components necessary to build one in a month or two. Lot of work, not hopeless though.
>>
>>1575654
oh shit this one is dead simple, the very essence of the sine bar style

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orAi33HjWB8&list=PL_UkNPv3LycZ3zpEQbF1aATNfuzGH3bW1&index=2
>>
>>1575656
I wonder if a taper attachment would be handy for converting a lathe?
>>
>>1575654
Oh that is your sine bar attachment?

Care to share the cad so I can amend for my southbend?
>>
>>1575681
>Oh that is your sine bar attachment?
no
>>
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>>1575696
You just confused the fuck out of me, I just reread your old message it makes sense now, sorry lol.

I'm going to cad up one of my antique derringers next weekend and make some drawings. Once I figure out how I am going to rifle I think my first firearm attempt will be a duplication of it.

>pic related, stevens and co from 1860s
>>
>>1575701
sweet
>>
>>1575701
if you have any questions about the modeling I can answer them for you
>>
lathe soft jaw spider
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2j_l_YCT5OA
>>
>>1575717
Thank you but I am a master modeler at my company in Creo 4. I'll be sure to keep yall updated.
>>
>>1575802
oh even cooler.

Someday I'm going to buy a millturn just to make machining porn with.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=varrJLbSkzI
>>
>>1575364
>9"
too short unless you are only doing pistol barrels. to cut rifling you need a special tool and a guide as long as your barrel. you can see on in this video
https://youtu.be/aLUTL5S6yFE?t=107
>>
>>1575898
>he doesn't know what swing is
>>
>>1575915
swing isn't important because barrels aren't big around. bed length is what matters.
>>
>>1575918
Yes, 9" refers to the swing, not length of bed you jagaloon.
>>
>>1575701
On chrome or nickel plated stuff like that, how do they do anything inside the barrel like boring and rifling with the plating? Plate it all before and then drill the hole? Or drill it first and plate it after with something protecting the inside of the barrel? Also how to keep a smooth transition from the bare metal to plating without it flaking at the edges?
>>
>>1575930
ok any time someone was talking about swing to be they usually say swing over whatever. just saying x length lathe I would assume is bed length.
>>
>>1575898
My 16" lathe has a 54" bed.
>>
>>1576009
Please show me a southbend catalog from any point in history where they sold a lathe with a 9" long bed.
>>
>>1576095
sorry I don't know about that manufacturer. most the lathes at the shop here are clausings and takisawas.
>>
>>1576009
>. just saying x length lathe I would assume is bed length.

You would assume wrong
The shorthand number is conventionally the swing.
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F0t8GFQr3_g

big ass cutter
>>
>>1575931
You just plug the bore.
>>
I have a cherry condition bridgeport and 12" x 48" Atlas lathe, along with a decent shelf of tools. I'm fucking tired of making money for shitbird shop owners who pay me pennies. I make $17/hr setting up and running a 9 axis millturn doing defense aerospace parts and its bullshit. Shop max rate is $23/hr so I'll never get above that, should be a $35/hr job minimum. What the fuck can I make at home that I can actually sell to people? I just need to profit $500/week to survive.
>>
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how would you mill a blade with a cnc center ?
assuming there is a nice flat surfarce to mount the part , my concern is about the curvature of the blade that will make it hard to strap correctly
>>
>>1576462
they might spin it or something too
>>
>>1576525
>I make $17/hr setting up and running a 9 axis millturn doing defense aerospace parts
what the fuck. I know people who got hired for more than that in regular job shops while still in school.
>>
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>>1576525
Get the business up and running first.

As for making a product, I think you have to lean on your interests. I like weapons. Glock accessory guy here. I won't lie, with manual machines it might be hard to find something you can make profitably without spending all your day cranking handles and turning knobs. Repairs and job shop work is probably a lot more manageable with manual stuff, you could approach a job shop and ask if they are willing to send some simple work your way.

You're going to be working ON the business before you can work IN the business.

I live in the middle of nowhere and a 35+ guy should make around $25/hr for semi-skilled labor like tool & die.

Back to the product though, you could probably make scope mounts on a manual machine with a relatively simple process and the proper tooling. The people that spend big money on scope mounts want them to be super fucking accurate though, likely doable without a grinder, I would probably lap the rings for cylindricity (I don't know anything about scope mounts though). There are a lot of interesting small machined parts on a lot of things desu. You could even tackle the e-cig or automotive worlds, hell even make machinist tools. There are even shops making go-pro cases. One comes to mind that used a go-fund-me to get started (I think), he now has a nice VMC and is working on version 2. let me find the link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVXFTH8eogo

An ultra-luxury phone case might be cool too. I was considering a fairly intricate one with a slide-out keyboard tray (yes on a cell phone) if I could just find the right keyboard to build it around. Phones, ecigs, etc. aren't built for working people to throw in their pocket and not worry about breaking, protecting them might be reasonably valuable.

AR muzzle devices? Flashlight mounts? Flashlights? Weapon lights have serious impact/g-force requirements that lend themselves to high-end manufacturing like machining.
>>
>>1576530
A ledge to push it up against is a good start I think. If you want to depend on holding it down with those holes in the handle then they need to not change, I went through that with fixturing my parts.

Matching the profile perfectly on funky 3d shapes is not always necessary, but that knife looks fairly simple. A perfect negative of the back side of the blade and you could drop it down into the pocket and have the bottom side of that angled blade surface properly supported.

You should look at John Grimsmo's fixtures, or at least what he is willing to share publicly, it could save you a mountain of fucking time fucking around with custom fixtures. I've went through the process already if you want to ask an amateur industrial designer questions on here too.

https://youtu.be/dUxLLChY8Gk?t=417
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>>1576552
Yeah its fucking retarded. I hired in to run one horizontal mill at night at this wage and it was fine because it was 2 hours of work 6 hours playing on my phone. I jumped at the chance to move up but no pay increase because the economy something something, it's horse shit and I'll be quitting as soon as I can survive on my own.

>>1576556
Those are great suggestions. I'm aware i'll be cranking handles all day but idgaf as long as I can eat and I'm not making my shylock bosses money as slave labor.

The phone case idea is pretty cool. Maybe personalized aluminum, anodized colors, engrave pictures on the back with a chinese cnc router or something I can get cheap. Thanks again mate
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>>1576602
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uw9xBtklDRo

some good info here
>>
I'm so sick of this jackass on night shift not cleaning up after himself and scrapping jobs that I started. I work hard to keep everything neat around here and it all just gets trashed. Also who the fuck uses coolant when cutting cast iron? My jaws are so caked up in the screw I can barely adjust them.
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>>1576530
>use screw holes as clamping points
>make jig to cut blade at angle
>toe clamps on non machined areas
Get creative
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>>1576633
https://youtu.be/iieIClqv_H4?t=141
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>>1576633
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QzH_Pa4KqJw&t=8s
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>>1576814
this one addresses how this guy thinks having his own product is essential because he is making his own work to pay for his machinery, he then goes on to say if you don't know exactly what the print entails it might fuck you pretty hard, then says the OSHA/whatever regulations are a completely different thing to just doing your own product and job shop work to pay for the machine. He says the margins suck on job shop work.
>>
>>1576816
I find it interesting that this successful machine shop business also offers his own products, and they are a simple thing like very nice knobs for electronics.
>>
anyone know what would be the best way to machine a star shape around .100 circumscribed circle out of copper to use for a edm electrode?
>>
>>1576819
Yeah the margins on job shop work are incredibly slim. Like the guy said in the video, china will quote the finished product below your material cost. What's left for us here in the states is work that's too complicated for the chinks to get right, needs to be done instantly, small quantity one time jobs, or can't be exported by law like defense. Lots of very hungry, very skilled shops competing for that work. I would never ever set out to have a job shop, it's 100% all about my own product for me, especially with my manual machines I could never compete.

Do you guys think small (1-2 hp) steam engines could sell? Maybe hook it to an alternator and market as off grid shtf generator?
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>>1576861
rotary table if on a manual machine, here's a video that explains the process pretty well

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s0HfNx9FdRc

if on CNC then there's nothing to it, just cam it up and use the right cutter
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>>1576861
does the star shape need perfectly sharp corners on the inner part?
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OWWAnlJfiE0
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Broke another fucking endmill today, kill me lads. Is it called a pocket or a slot I'm milling from the flat end of a cylinder towards the center?
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>>1577077
That would be slotting I believe... Slots are probably more narrow and possibly open at one or either end, while a pocket is usually closed at both ends and more rectangular. Fuck if I know though.

What's the setup like? Can you take pictures? What machinery? I can probably help.

slotting sucks anyway, need more info.
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>>1577085
316ss bar 9.5mm dia, needs a 5.50mm slot cut through it. Machinery is a dumpy old manual mill that has all the gears backwards for some reason, so I have to crank it the opposite direction to increase/decrease the spindle RPM.
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my attempt at an electrode
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test cut using it. the process took a lot longer than I thought it would. I need to put like 20 holes in a part and it took 10 minutes to do this one.

are there any tutorials for edm programming online?
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>>1577095
sweet (pic)
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>>1577090
what RPM you running at? those small endmills like super high RPM.

a thin wall like that is going to want to collapse in on the endmill, blowing your tolerance.
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>>1577090
Yeah, that's going to be a shitty part to have to do with an endmill, if you had a bunch of them to do an on size slitting saw with the radius ground onto it would be the way to do it, although if you've got something close you could just rough out the slot and then finish the radius with the endmill.
>>
>>1577095
look for a manual for the machine?
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>>1577106
Hard to know for sure since the gears are all backwards but I'd estimate about 1000rpm. I've been trying to feed pretty slow and make multiple cuts at about 1mm depth each time, but I'm pretty sure it will come out shitty.

>>1577107
Tool room barely has any endmills that could fit in the slot to begin with so I'm up shit creek.
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>>1577095
is that one of them fancy NC ones or just a regular sinker?
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>>1577127
it's a sodick something or other. it has nc control but I don't know how to program for it so I've just been using the conversational option. we have a wire one too but it's down for now.
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>>1577125
saw blade + arbor like this guy suggested?
>>1577107
>>
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>>1577125
>Tool room barely has any endmills that could fit in the slot to begin with so I'm up shit creek.

If you are really motivated you could grind a HSS toolbit and put it in a shank you put in the mill, only needs one flute and might be super slow and shitty, but would work.
>>
>>1577125
Yeah, do you have access to any sort of grinder setup? If you run out of endmills you might want to look at the possibility of doing it single point.
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>>1577125
1k rpm is slow for that small of a cutter, my clapped out knee mill will do 2k rpm and the last time I used a small endmill I think I cranked it up to like 1500 before it was getting loud

put 'er in high gear, and remember in high gear the gears might run backward.
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>>1577143
I must've messed up my speed calculation then because I got 1370rpm when I did the math. Like I said, the actual rpm is all guess work; when the spindle spins faster the number on the dial goes lower and vice versa.

>>1577135
Could give it a shot I suppose.

>>1577138
Single point? Like a tiny fly cutter?

>>1577134
Don't know if the shop has any saw blades but I'd have to check with the foreman anyway and that dude hates me.

The job was supposed to be for a more experienced guy anyway but he wasn't in and I didn't have any jobs on hand to do.
>>
>>1577147
well you'll surely figure it out
>>
http://www.manufacturinglounge.com/tool-helix-affects-manufacturing/

end mill helix angles

When determining what helix to use, it depends highly on what material you are cutting. In general, heavy cutting where finish isn’t important, a lower helix angle is the way to go. When you do care about tolerance and finish, then higher helix angles are much better.

Now that we have nailed down the purpose of helix angles, let’s see how they vary by metal. The following chart below will briefly outline the helix angles for different metals.

Steel: 30˚

Stainless Steel: 30˚

Brass: 13˚

Plastic: 40˚

Zinc: 40˚

Copper: 40˚

Titanium: 35˚

Aluminum: 45˚
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>>1574668
Probably will eventually.

For now, they're making too much money selling all the cnc gcode to the Chinese and Russians
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>>1577258
kind of doubt it, there would be real consequences, this is not grandma's facebook profile data anon.
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>>1573498
Hi. I'm te OP who started making these threads. I didn't continue because I wanted to now if someone would start them. I'm glad to see I don't have to be around for these threads to spawn.
also, I'm as an aprentice in a factory right now, working on a bridge milling machine. man, waking up at 5:00am sucks.
anyway. good job to the OP on this thread.I'll be around
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AUjmemIjjbY
>>
>trying to tap hole
>for some reason it's not working
>can't fucking see because no door override
>don't want to fuck with things blind and risk crashing
>give up and try to tap it by hand
>it goes crooked
FUCK
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>>1577726
Yep.
>>
>>1576561
>>1576683
thx a lot for thooses advices !
>>
>>1577730
I hope you're European and not Chinese.
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>>1577726
reminder to sink your thread insert nice and deep so that it's below the surface even when torqued. a plane fell out of the sky once when a sticky-up thread insert held flange faces apart.
>>
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>>1577773
good advice

>tfw tapping a part held down poorly and it lifts up and breaks the tap
>>
I was trying to drill some 8mm holes in 8mm thick steel bars on a drill press, and it completely shrugged off all HSS drillbits, they didn't so much get destroyed, just stopped biting altogether after 1-2mm of drilling. The bars were very old, originally rusted to shit, but I grinded the ~1mm rust off before drilling. The same drillbits I used I've drilled steel and stainless steel with, without any issues, they could drill steel even after failing to drill these old bars.
Adding cutting oil didn't help, the only way I could drill through them was with carbide endmills, but I don't want to break my expensive endmills on stupid shit. What the fuck was up with that steel? Were there some historical alloys that were extremely hard to machine, or did rusting go deeper than what was visible on the surface?
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>>1578188
Work hardening, you didn't feed hard enough
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>>1578190
No, I thought about that, but I fed as hard as the cheapo drill press would let me. That it happened with the 8mm drill is one thing, but it also happened with the 4mm bit (on two other locations as well). And I've drilled 10-15mm steel bars before, it never happened on those. Also it was screeching the entire time with all bits except carbide, even after adding oil, despite only running like 200RPM.
>>
>>1578197
>8mm
>at 200rpm

damn anon, speed 'er up
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>>1578190
maybe the material was pre-hard?

tool steel will harden if you look at it funny too btw anon

>>1578197
>>
>>1578197
the fact that it was squealing tells me it was pre-hard or work hardened, whatever you think about it

a squealing noise that isn't just chatter means the material is harder than your tool. If you want to prove it, go turn some pre-hard steel with a regular old carbide insert. SKKKWEEEEEE
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>>1578219
It was already squeaking at 200RPM so going faster wouldn't help.
>>1578225
>>1578226
Pre-hardened could be. Weird thing is that my bandsaw went through it, although it was making a racket. The bar was actually bent into an S-shape, it was one of those spring mounts they use for rakes on passive cultivators. Probably was bent under heat and then it hardened? I don't know why you'd harden something you want to use as a spring.
>>
>>1578228
spring steel is pretty tough shit anon
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>>1578233
I didn't think they would bother using spring steel for something like that, I can't imagine mild steel wouldn't do the job.
>>
>>1578244
Been trying to find something on Google, but to no avail; how can I tell if it's spring steel or something that got hardened? And what are my options for drilling it if it's spring steel, only cobalt and carbide?
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>>1578267
I don't even know, they probably don't make much out of spring steel besides springs. I think those thin metal bands on pallets are spring steel.
>>
>>1578244
the elastic range of the material might have been a part of the design, in which case you might be able to figure out what it might be.
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>>1578271
>>1578272
This is something that was probably made in like the 50s in the USSR.
Another piece in the puzzle is that when I was taking apart their old mounts, I found that one of the 5 springs had part of it broken clear in half, surprisingly it was the middle of the flat part that mounted to the frame, which is secured by plates from both above and below. Could be evidence of unintentional hardening.
I'm leaning towards hardened and not spring, in which case I'll toss them out and make rigid straight mounts for the rakes from mild steel.
>>
is it normal for annealed 4140 to be 43 rockwell? I thought it would be softer than that. a friend bought some to make a part out of and it's beating the shit out of his tooling.
>>
Is there any functional difference in edge finder diameters?
>>
>>1574856
Big manufacturer. The amount of tool waste there is amazing. Carbide drills are our big one, threadmills are on the side. I'll take a stupid pic tomorrow.
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>>1578403
>The amount of tool waste there is amazing
I mean isn't that kind of the point? Figure out how fast the tools can be run while maintaining a decent life?
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>>1578383
What you can fit it into.
>>
>>1578427
I meant as far as accuracy.
>>
>>1578429
the size of the imperfections in the surface that it spans



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