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Anyone have one of these? Thoughts?
>>
>>1571394
Standard unit here in japan, costs as little as $400 installed, works well for one room. Needs to be cleaned with air conditioner fin cleaner spray once a season, has a life span of about 10 years, but mold can grow inside and you need to clean it out which is a major pain in the ass if the manufacturer doesn’t bother making the blower fan removable which none of them here do.
more expensive models are supposedly more resistant to mold but as a renter here you buy the cheapest one because moving apartments takes 5 years off the lifespan according to Japanese HVAC guys
>>
Stayed at a "resort" (concrete apartment) in mexico that had one. Worked pretty damn well.
>>
for new construction they have models that are flush to the ceiling
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>>1571420
Do you have a link?

OP Here. I want to install one soon before it gets too hot.
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>>1571394
Works well. explodes if you don't clean it. The evap freezes all the fucking time because the blower isn't strong enough to keep up, when it works it works excellently, the heat pump works great also but if it's raining the coils will freeze, but that much is expected with a heat pump.
>fujitsu
>I have one at work.
>>
>>1571499
Does the freezing affect anything noticeably in operation? I haven’t noticed any functional rain related issue for any of the ones I’ve used, but perhaps the climate is different.
The outside fans can get loud when they get old which is a little bad for a bedroom because they’re right outside your room. However they heat up very fast because they have an additional resistive heating element for immediate heat in cold weather when the heat pump is still starting up.
cleaning is imperative however and cleaning the blower fan is a bitch
>>
>>1571499
How sensitive are they to dust? I'm thinking about adding one to my insulated garage to double as a heat pump.
>>
>>1571424
https://www.mitsubishicomfort.com/products/indoor-units/ceiling-cassette
>new construction
>before it gets too hot
buddy you better build the rest of that house before it gets too hot
>>
>>1571508
Yes, when the evaporator freezes the AC stops working until it melts.
The heat pump freezing makes it stop running and the blades have broken from the frost build up.

I can't speak for them all, but tl;dr the fujitsu USUALLY works. I can't speak for other brands.
When it's working it fucking rocks, but it's a pain in the ass when it isn't.
>>
>>1571519
If you have an air compressor with a blowy nozzle it won't be a problem, blow off the coils before you turn it on every season or twice a year if you have one with heat.
>>
One of the few I did was a nightmare and almost made me quit my job due to the incompetence of our salesmen who priced the job out.
>4 evap heads
>on a two story brick farm house
>14 inch thick walls
>3 heads on the second story
>company too cheap to rent a lift or even fucking scaffolding, did it all on a fucking ladder
>used the cheapest, flimsiest line hide ever
>used cheap minisplits, whose flare connections stick out basically 14 inches from the unit. so you have to very carefully bend the line set out of the house to fit in the linehide without fucking up flare connection
>bought 3 50 foot rolls of mini split wire. wire can not be spliced, has to be one contentious run of wire from head to condenser. for 4 heads. 3 rolls. 50 foot each. two of the units easily 100+ feet from the condenser.
>billed for two days. with two guys working it
>need one guy to hold head up to wall, one guy to make line connections/wire connections, and one guy outside to push all that shit in and then lightly pull out. so two guys simply will not work
>one day just to drill holes, set brackets to mount heads, set condenser, and all kinds of other prep work and get the real supplies we need.
>need another two days to finish
>the "head" installer at the company is a new guy. been there a few months. claims to have experience from other job. clearly had none. utterly fucking trashed the install truck. couldn't find a tool or fitting you needed unless you wanted to waste an hour+ digging through shit
>home owner super picky, supervised everything. constantly asking us to make slight adjustments to things so they can be just right (wants a mini split right on the corner of the room because "it would be less noisy when sleeping". hope he enjoys having a filter that can not be removed without snapping it off or being able to be properly serviced, dumb fuck. told him this and said he'd "figure it out". whatever, we don't do maintenance on this shit anyway.)
fuck mini splits
>>
>>1571558
>>1571540
Are these multiple indoor units all connected to a single external unit? if so please disregard my posts above because the ones in this country are all 1 indoor unit to 1 outdoor unit and probably have different issues, for example I’ve never heard of an air conditioner here freezing up in the rain but can certainly imagine that happening if it’s driving multiple room units
>>
>>1571394
I want one of these and a multi-air-handler unit to replace an old 80000 btu gas furnace.
HVAC guys said no way it can blow well enough into existing ductwork.
wtf, why can't I add fans?
>>
>>1571582
I've never heard of that either. I work in IT and we use tons of these things to cool small server rooms for our clients (small and medium sized businesses). Zero issues even in winter.
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>>1571582
>>1571834
Look up VRF systems. They are ramming them down our throats in the US because Asia and Europe love them. 60% of new construction globally supposedly uses the pieces of shit. The compressors run on an inverter and speed up/slow down to maintain either a superheat or suction pressure set point. Most manufacturers can support up to 24 indoor units to a condenser.

Whatever you do for a system do not buy LG. They are beyond awful.
>>
>>1571821
Would an air to water or geothermal heat pump work with American furnaces?

https://www.fujitsu-general.com/global/products/atw/index.html
>>
OP Returns. Getting an estimate on Friday for a Mitsubishi system. Plan on doing the install myself, but I'll share any relevant findings or information. Looking at a 2 zone system

I know they aren't beautiful to look at, but my choices are HVAC - which I don't like any way, or window units - which makes me want to kill myself with how loud they run.
>>
>>1571867
>Asia and Europe love them
If you're talking about heat pumps even some cities use them for district heating. They respond well to cheap electricity prices and Euros ja Japs don't have oil but we have wind and solar.
>>
Do Americans have geothermal units for their houses or is it all oil or gas?
>>
>>1571891
Up north it's oil/gas, south is electrical/gas. Geothermals are rare but they do exist throughout
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>>1571882
Those mitsubishi ones seem awesome. My buddy has one, and 2 little indoor units heat his whole house, and it's cheap as fuck to run and super quiet.
>>
>>1571394
I have one, simple chink ON-OFF unit with capillary metering device.
I never had an aircon before, feels good to live like a white man, adjusting temperature to my liking.
Heatpump mode is absolutely mad, heats up room much faster than oil radiator (but keep in mind that in frozen shitholes like Moscow it might not work), yet consumes 3 times less.
Cooling action also works, obviously.
I have installed it myself (since certified installation would cost me nearly as much, as new air conditioner, so I decided to give it a try). I didn't use vacuum pump, I just opened service port with allen key and opened service valve, which released some freon and moist air to atmosphere. Closed service port, took some soapy water, checked for leaks, and opened valve full retard.
In any case R410a freon refill is much cheaper than installation.
If you'd install it yourself, don't make my mistake, don't kink copper. Making flares is nerve wrecking process, especially with cheap concentric flare tool. (Lifehack: add some compressor oil before flaring. Also add some oil on nut and back of the flare)
Only $300, and I have an aircon.

Honestly, I'd recommend you getting a window air conditioner if you have american vertical slider windows.
>>
>>1571499
Check your freon pipes for ice. It shouldn't freeze.
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>>1571919
Btw, my installation method is not recommended.
You should at least vacuum lines.
Get yourself a vacuum pump and HVAC thing with manometers and valves.
>>
>>1571907
Are they usually just digged 1 metre deep few hundred metre long or do people drill wells for them?

Here it depends on if you have room on your yard for digging the trench.
>>
>>1571867
care to elaborate on lg awfulness?
>>
https://youtu.be/UrQ9zjvmD6k?t=199

Would a centralized cooling solution be better?
>>
>>1571907
>>1571942
Geothermal is huge in commercial construction in the US especially with schools for some reason. They dig 300 foot deep wells and circulate glycol through pex loops then use the glycol in water sourced heat pumps. Usually they put the football/baseball field on top of the wells. Large buildings will have dozens of wells all tied together.
>>
>>1571954
Their ductless splits are made with cheap plastic and poorly designed. The ones my company has installed in the last 3 years are having inverter and compressor failures and we're not the only ones with the issue.

Their VRFs are also poorly built with cheap materials. Oil return issues even with factory approved piping layouts. We've had factory braze joints inside the condensers blow out twice. On startup at one job 3 of 6 power supply boards were shorted to ground. Interface is crap and can't maintain comfortable temps in auto swithover due to a 5 degree deadband that's non adjustable. Factory tech support takes hours to get on the phone.

If I took the time I could think of more, the VRF systems are barely functional. We're an independent contractor that has installs anything and everything. Mitsubishi and Daikin are far better VRFs and ductless systems.
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>>1571984
Wow. 5°F deadband on inverter...
My chin-chong on-off has 2°C deadband.
>>
>>1571984
Most LG stuff is pretty much shit in my experience. For a while it seemed like they were going to be a good cost/performance alternative to overpriced Japanese stuff, but in the end they’ve ended up being like a slightly more upscale Chinese brand.
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>>1571993
Most equipment in the US has a 2 or 3 degree F deadband. VAV and hot deck/cold deck systems rarely get more than half a degree off setpoint so the office workers are spoiled and having a 70 to 75 temp swing is unacceptable to them when they're used to 72 to 73. Fuckers are cold at 71 and hot at 74.
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>>1571401

>cheapest one because moving apartments takes 5 years off the lifespan according to Japanese HVAC guys

Conspiracy.

"All you do" is disconnected and reconnect. Unless you slap it and the condenser unit around during transport it won't do them shit.
>>
>>1572020
POE oil used in R410A systems is hygroscopic and exposing it to atmosphere allows it to absorb enough moisture to cause issues down the road. Everything from degrading motor windings to gumming up or clogging orifices.
>>
>>1572017
>Most equipment in the US has a 2 or 3 degree F deadband.
That is pretty good. That is 1-1.5 °C.
>and having a 70 to 75 temp swing is unacceptable to them when they're used to 72 to 73. Fuckers are cold at 71 and hot at 74.
That is literally low-end on-off tier swing. But all LGs are inverters, which is a shame.
I guess LG engineers can't into PID control of compressor RPMs... Or they think in °C, and thought that +/- 1°C is no big deal.
>>1572039
They should vacuum lines, so there is no water.
It might get only if there is a leak.
>>
>>1572020
everything in Japan is basically a conspiracy, if you think that’s bad check out the Sha-Ken vehicle inspection system. Basically you have to get massive unnecessary maintenance work done every few years to keep your car on the road, the maintenance periods get closer and closer together as our car gets older so eventually you’re paying $1500 every two years just to keep your car street legal despite nothing being broken, so it’s cheaper to buy a new car. They take the old cars and put them on a boat and sell them in India.

When I was shopping for air conditioners for my apartment the sales guy was trying to upsell me from the cheap unit to one that cost 4x as much, I asked him if it was more energy efficient and he said “no, they’re all the same, but by buying the more expensive one you’ll be supporting the development of new and better Japanese air conditioners in the future!”
I thanked the guy and went to a different store and found an even cheaper model.
>>
Can someone explain me this
>be me
>search for air conditioners
>OUR A/C is 90% more efficient
>compare all specs to cheap one: difference is less than 5%.
>>
>>1571582
No it's a single unit in a building about 15x15.

It's not the AC freezing in the rain, it's the heat pump function. It's an AC running backwards.
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>>1571922
It seems to be a weak blower, allegedly the HVAC guy says the freon is pure and filled correctly to their specs.
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>>1572070
at least he was honest
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>>1571919
>In any case R410a freon refill is much cheaper than installation.
nigger you need an EPA license to buy that shit
>>
>>1572093
I'm not in USA.
But I guess getting EPA loisence isn't that difficult.
Also, this would give you basic idea on how shit works I guess.
>>
>>1572129
And yeah
>Thirdworlds
>We contribute to ozone depletion and global warming because recovery equipment jews make them too expensive.
>>
>>1572129
>>1572131
Also I meant calling an HVAC-R guy to refill the aircon. It is common practice in thirdworlds.
>>
>>1572093
Is it difficult to get EPA license?
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>>1572393
100 question timed exam for universal license. Just need to pay whatever the associated fee is. To work on residential equipment you only need to worry about 50 of the questions though. If you can memorize the study guide well enough it's not hard.
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>>1572399
So once you pass the test you can buy all the freon you want right?
Is Freon good for anything else besides putting in an air conditioner?
Can you fill balloons with it? Does it change your voice?
will filling your tires with it give you a firmer ride?
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>>1572403
Yes

Not really except for other appliances like refrigerators and dehumidifiers

No and why would you when helium is easy to get and cheaper

No but my coworker did get fired for doing it when his tire was low. The nitrogen we keep on our trucks works better
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>>1572403
Its an easy test. which tanks are which, and dont spray it on the stratosphere is the gist. You should study though
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>>1572403
>you can make phosgene gas with it

Sincerely, /k/
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>>1572070
>thing is irredeemably expensive
>Japanese marketing: "Think of the honor it will bring to Japan if you take out a loan for this!"
What a strange place. That shit would drive me crazy
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>>1572446
Yeah but it's easier to mix bleach and ammonia than burn refrigerant.
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>>1572453
New chlorine cocktail?
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>>1571984
interesting. we have two LG split units for our server room running non-stop for two years and we have yet to encounter a problem. but those are small 3.5kW "home" units, no fancy VRF systems...

can you explain deadband issue?
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>>1572453
Honestly if you heat up a copper pipe and just run the refridgerant through it (with a NBC mask on ffs) you can use it to very effectively gas out squirrels and pigeons in hard to reach places. It doesn't leave a residue.

Wear a vapor cartridge that is qualified to handle it or die.
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>>1572612
In auto switchover mode where it goes from heat to cool automatically you set a single setpoint. Most equipment will only have a 2 degree deadband meaning that there is a 2 degree difference between the temperatures that heating starts and cooling starts. For example heat would come on when temperature gets below 72 and cooling would start if it gets above 74. VAV or hot deck/cold deck systems wouldn't go below 72.5 or over 73.5.

The LG VRFs won't start heating until it's below 70.5 and won't cool until it's over 75.5 if it's set to 73 degrees. Doesn't sound like much but when it starts and causes a big temperature swing it's very noticeable. It's the worst in the Spring and Fall when overnight temps get into the low 50s and into the upper 70s during the day. American office workers are also incredibly spoiled which makes it so much worse when I get called to their new 30 million dollar building because of wild temp swings and I gotta tell them that's just how it is nothing we can do.
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>>1572131

>We contribute to ozone depletion and global warming because recovery equipment jews make them too expensive.

You had your time to shine. Now your skies are fucked up and it's getting kinda toasty up there you are trying to smother the little guy.

We are getting more rain that ever before and while there are some land slides crop growth is up by immeasurable amounts.
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>>1572070
>>1571919
>>1571394

The only company that makes a minisplit worth anything is Fujutsu. They also have models that go to -10 and some have a 33 seer rating (which is fucking unheard of in america). The problem is price, but usually they come with a 5 year guarantee because they have to be installed professionally. Every other manufacturer is shit. Mitsubishi and "MRCOOL" is garbage which is why Home Depot and Lowes sells them. If you want to pay a professional 6000 to haul it away and replace it 2-3 years down the line then go for it. Blueridge, Aircon and Gree are all chinkshit as is any minisplit you can get on Ebay. Sanyo unfortunately doesn't exist anymore, they were the best and pioneered minisplits into what they are up until their hostile takeover by Panasonic. Panasonic continued (I think they still might) to make their mini-splits with the added caveat that they are now shitty and prone to failure like the rest of them. People laugh about Japanese conspiracies, but sibling rivalries are no joke in Japan.
Oh and DON'T GET "ZONED" units. These are far less efficient and if one indoor unit fucks up, or the outdoor unit then everything goes down and you're fucked.

>>1571558
>14 inch thick walls
I hate those. Went through a ridiculous 3 feet of concrete once, took me a whole day just to burn the hole and I was so spent at the end of the day that I couldn't finish the job.

>need one guy to hold head up to wall, one guy to make line connections/wire connections, and one guy outside to push all that shit in and then lightly pull out. so two guys simply will not work

You're talking about mounting the wall unit to the wall and making the connections? I duct tape both linesets and the wiring together and have a guy push like 6 feet through the hole, then connect everything inside. If you tape the lines to the drain hose you should be able push it all out. Then I fashion the drain line and zip it to everything else and straighten it out.
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>>1571519
Bad idea. Dust and a wet coil do not mix well, especially if it's drywall or wood. Got called to clean out the coil of a unit once and the entire thing was caked in with fucking drywall compound. Area around it looked like there was some work done and the home owner told me that they had a roof leak and had to replace some drywall in the same room. The fucking knuckles heads ran it while they were sanding and it all got circulated though the coil and caked it in. Had to take it apart and run hot water through a pump sprayer, but got most of the shit out fortunately .
>>
>>1572758
Whatever, most thirdworld R22 installation had died from moisture creating acids, which ate tubes and windings. Tho R12 fridges are still in service.
R410a is just contributing to global warming.
>>
>>1572776
Explain ratings.
Why all aircons have +/- same watt per watt rating (all similar types have similar values, for ex. cheap stuff with capillary tube would make 3.0 - 3.2, yet with electronic valve would make 3.8-4?), yet SEER differs quite dramatically?
>>
>>1572795
>Why all aircons have +/- same watt per watt rating
>yet SEER differs quite dramatically?
Not just the valves are powered. Depends on the coil size, gas type, blower motor and a lot of factors. Also has to do with operation and how it starts/shutdown. With electric heaters, you're dealing with the same amount of BTU's of heat generated by any type you buy. It's a meme to buy fancy ones because no matter what the power transmission is the same (induction). Pressure mediation is a whole different ball game and some ridiculous shit happens when the right coherency of parts are assembled. The amount of electricity used basically doesn't matter at that point, it's how the gas is moved.
>>
>>1572811
>Not just the valves are powered.
Yes, but metering device type seems to have most significant impact of kosher factor.
> Depends on the coil size, gas type, blower motor and a lot of factors.
Those are more-less identical. Sure, good brand AC would have slightly beefier coils, and slightly quieter fan...
>Also has to do with operation and how it starts/shutdown.
So, basically it depends on type (on-off, or inverter) and on firmware, right?
>With electric heaters, you're dealing with the same amount of BTU's of heat generated by any type you buy. It's a meme to buy fancy ones because no matter what the power transmission is the same (induction).
Indeed.
> Pressure mediation is a whole different ball game and some ridiculous shit happens when the right coherency of parts are assembled. The amount of electricity used basically doesn't matter at that point, it's how the gas is moved.
You pay for electricity, so it matters.
More efficient it can move and make gas change it state, more efficient it should be.
But why efficiency (BTU/watt) is more-less identical in many aircons, yet SEER can differ dramatically?
I don't understand this...
>>
>>1572819
or is it just a jewish trick, that makes aircon to cool less, thus consume less power?
>>
is there any consensus on brand quality?

Have 2x2.1kw panasonic systems ~ 3 years old
still not broke.

>>1572776
fujitsu the best?
>>
>>1573483
Really the only brands I've had trouble with are LG(all kinds of issues stated above) and Carrier used to fuck up their factory flare fittings but are GTG now. I would say Mitsubishi or Fujitsu are the best followed closely by Daikin. There's nothing wrong with Panasonic either.
>>
>>1571882
>Mitsubishi system. Plan on doing the install myself
The only thing you can fuck up easily installing one yourself is the line vacuuming and refrigerant fill. I did a poor job on that when I installed one for the apartment above my garage so the refrigerant only lasted 2 years. A refill wasn't expensive though. Had someone do it for $200.

I have a cheaper brand unit that will cool or heat, but the heat won't work if the outside temperature falls below 24f, so the apartment has an electric heater for that portion of the year.
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>>1571394
i'm looking at one right now. its like 97f outside and its cold as balls in here

this is the standard all over southeast asia, along with tankless water heaters, bathroom floors that have drains, and bidet sprayers in place of toilet paper. these are vastly superior societies in many ways. possibly in every way
>>
>>1573664
>There's nothing wrong with Panasonic either.

wait till you need parts. Also I don't respect them after they took Sanyo's and basically made them less efficient. Mitsubishi will fall apart as you're trying to mount the indoor unit.

>>1573483
The very best

>>1572819
>But why efficiency (BTU/watt) is more-less identical in many aircons, yet SEER can differ dramatically?
>I don't understand this...

Me neither, not familiar with aircons though
>>
>>1573728
>Me neither, not familiar with aircons though

Then what makes you qualified to comment on the quality of one brand over another?
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>>1573775
>Then what makes you qualified to comment on the quality of one brand over another?

I'm not familiar with them because I refuse to install an inferior product.
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>>1573777
So are you unfamiliar with Aircons or do you install them?
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>>1572072
>OUR A/C is 90% more efficient
Usually the question attached to that is "compared to what?"
>>
>>1571558
>wants a mini split right on the corner of the room because "it would be less noisy when sleeping"

Also known as a megaphone
>>
>>1572072
What's there to explain, besides them wanting to sell you something?
>>
>>1574268
Usually to other brands, or older technology.
But the problem is that technology is the same, nothing had really changed.
>>1574333
What allows them to say such bullshit?
>>
OP Returns.

Definitely getting a Mitsubishi unit for my downstairs. My dad had this brand installed 2 years ago and it's worked great. The Units have what's called "Hyper Heating", which detects the spots that are hot or cold, and directs a vent at that area.

I'm a one-wall shared townhome. Originally, I was planning on having 1 unit downstairs, two other units upstairs.

He recommended 45 BTUs per square foot.
Cooling, you need half that. However, we have gas heat so heating isn't a priority. We have a 500sq ft sized room on the first floor.

30,000 BTU Outside Unit
18,000 BTU Unit for the first floor --> Which would be kind of under for heating, but we have the gas heating so we don't care.

So, Upstairs we could put in 2 mitsubishi units (6,000 BTUs each for each bedroom/150sq ft, OR we can we install a Mistubishi Air Handler ("Diamond Comfort System") in the attic, which we have plenty of space in our unfinished attic for. These would be DUCTED Vents, and 1 for each room (3 bedrooms/1bath/Hallway). Return is in the hallway. It still gets its refrigerant from the outside unit (12,000 BTU unit).

You want your BTUs inside to add up to the Outside Unit BTU. 18+12 = 30BTU. You either pay for too much capacity and aren't using it or it's under-powered. So you want dead on.

You need 5" clearance from the ceiling, because they suck air in at the top. It causes problems if it's too close. 4" is OK.

I'll let you guys know what the pricing comes out. We asked for a couple of configurations. Probably going to to DIY Install.
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>>1574377
>Probably going to to DIY Install.
Get a vacuum pump and gauges.
>>
>>1574536
And a flaring tool, tubing bender, tubing cutter, nitrogen regulator, nitrogen tank, and micron gauge. Unless it's not a flared unit then you can skip the flaring tool and buy a oxy acetylene torch or turbo torch and Sil-Fos 15 brazing rod. For that system you will also likely need refrigerant and a charging scale.

Or...and I know this will make at least one of you REEE, hire someone to make the connections, pressure test, evacuate, and charge. You can do everything else with basic tools.
>>
>>1574564
Well, if you're buying Mitsubishi, it is relatively expensive air conditioner, it is not $300 chink unit. So I'd not risk, and I'd buy (or rent) proper tools.
>And a flaring tool
Yes, you'd need one, if you're going to make your own lines. (Since 3 mt is not enough I guess)
Get eccentric one with clutch, they make better flares.
>tubing cutter
Yes.
Also you'd need a deburring tool/reamer, otherwise your flares would be shit.
>tubing bender
Would be handy, especially when you plan sharp 90° turns.
Don't even try to make sharp turns without it. I fucked up pipe like that...
>nitrogen regulator, nitrogen tank, and micron gauge
Those aren't necessary, but I guess it is good to have them, since you can properly pressure-test everything, and be sure that it won't leak.
>Unless it's not a flared unit then you can skip the flaring tool and buy a oxy acetylene torch or turbo torch and Sil-Fos 15 brazing rod. For that system you will also likely need refrigerant and a charging scale.
All mini-splits are flared AFAIK... You will need brazing rod and nitrogen only when you fuck up something, like indoor unit.
>Or...and I know this will make at least one of you REEE, hire someone to make the connections, pressure test, evacuate, and charge. You can do everything else with basic tools.
I'd agree. With expensive unit, I'd probably ask someone who does it every day to do it...

But with $300 unit... Whatever. Installation would cost more I guess.
>>
>>1574579
OP says he's looking at a Mitsubishi multi unit.

I can't say for residential where ever OP is but in commercial there are enough major municipalities in the US that have banned flares that manufacturers offer flared and brazed options. Although, now that I'm thinking about it that may only be on equipment 5 tons capacity and over.
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>>1574604
>Although, now that I'm thinking about it that may only be on equipment 5 tons capacity and over.
Probably.
Since you can buy 34000 BTU in US unit with obvious flares ( https://www.homedepot.com/p/GREE-Multi-21-Zone-34000-BTU-Ductless-Mini-Split-Air-Conditioner-with-Heat-Inverter-and-Remote-230-Volt-MULTI36HP307/300181781
Anyway, I'm not from US, nor HVAC specialist, just average Joe, who installed cheap aircon himself (without any tools like vacuum pump, so lifespan is compromised probably).
I'd not risk installing such expensive unit myself...
>>
>>1571499
It freezes because either the charge is low or there's not enough airflow across the coil. "The blower isn't strong enough" is bullshit. My bet (especially for a DIY install) is that you have a leak, probably at a flare joint if you used a shitty flare bar to make the flare instead of the factory recommended tool. It's also possible you never charged it right. A/C and H/P's icing up indoors is NOT normal.

>>1571519
Very, the shitty blower wheels in most units will mold over almost immediately. Also the crap plastic screens they use as filters aren't going to stop shit like sawdust or drywall dust.

>>1571540
The outdoor unit will build up ice in it during the course of normal operation at lower temperatures. However, it should be periodically defrosting itself outside. Ice should never be thick enough to hit the blade. You may have a bad defrost sensor or board, or you may need to adjust the defrost timing so it does it more often.

>>1571821
You can get an inverter-style outdoor heat pump (I recommend the Bosch BOVA units) and an air handler that will replace your furnace. Word of warning: electric heat doesn't come out of the vents at as high a temperature as gas. It'll heat fine, but some people bitch "it blows cold air".

>>1571880
No, totally different systems.

>>1571882
If you insist on doing this yourself (and I don't recommend it), make sure you get the factory specified flaring tool. Do NOT use grandpa's automotive flaring bar, it WILL leak. Something like the Yellow Jacket 60278 (google it) is damn near idiot-proof.

>>1571891
Geothermal is relatively new here, and you mostly only see it in new construction. It's retarded expensive to install even with the gubmint tax credits.

>>1571922
NEEDS SOME MORE FREEZONE

>>1572403
Yes, you can buy all you want BUT you are required by the EPA to keep track of every ounce you use. You can use it to remove warts, flash freeze insects, burn yourself, etc.
>>
>>1572446
Only if you're a retard.

>>1572453
Actually, it's easier to make phosgene. Hold a torch in front of refrigerant cylinder and open the valve, no messy bleach or ammonia spilling everywhere.

>>1572443
The new tests are NOT easy. They require a study guide now, EPA mandated harder tests to crack down on retarded homeowners getting certified.

>>1572612
Any brand is only as good as the installer. Give a top-end system to a gorilla to install and it'll be shit, but a low-end system with a good install can last forever. Goodman units often get a bad rap for being junk, but that's because literally anyone can buy them and most are horribly installed - not because the actual product is crap.

>>1572682
After 25 years I have quite a tolerance to it. A little snootfull is good for clearing the sinuses.

>>1572752
Do those run priority? (Heating calls satisfied first, etc?)

>>1572758
One space shuttle launch does more damage to the atmosphere than if you vented every ounce of refrigerant on the planet.

>>1572776
New Fujitsu "hyper heat" models work down to -15. I was a Mitsu Diamond Dealer for years, only problem we had with them was our retard installers half-assing the flares.
God Tier:
Fujitsu
Mitsubishi
Panasonic
OK Tier:
Gibson
EMI
Trane/Am Std
Daikin
Junk Tier:
Everything else

>>1572795
SEER is a retarded metric, practically meaningless. Watts consumed = electric bill.

>>1573728
You are correct, getting parts from Panasonic takes patience.

>>1573777
My, aren't we posh?

>>1574536
Get the right flaring tool.
Then get torches, vacuum pump, gauges, micron gauge, service wrenches, pipe cutter, and about five years of experience.
Then call a professional.

>>1574564
I only use 15% rod. Anything less is asking for trouble.

Seriously, pay a little extra and get it done right.
>>
>>1574816
>Get the right flaring tool.
I wish I got eccentric one. But it worked out pretty good with some lube.
>Then get torches, vacuum pump, gauges, micron gauge, service wrenches, pipe cutter, and about five years of experience.
Those aren't needed, if unit is cheap ($300).
Flare pipes, connect them, open schrader valve, open valve with key, let some freon out, close schrader, close valve, check for leaks with soapy water, open full retard and hope shit will not leak much in 5 years. Also fuck EPA and jannies.
If unit is expensive, I'd call a professional.

Btw, is it possible to use a fridge compressor as vacuum pump? Will they create sufficient suction?
>>
>>1574940
>Btw, is it possible to use a fridge compressor as vacuum pump?
Vacuum pumps good enough for HVAC work are cheap (<$100). No reason to hack something together that won't be as good.
>Will they create sufficient suction?
No.
>>
>>1575146
>Vacuum pumps good enough for HVAC work are cheap (<$100).
In my shithole they are like $250...I can order from China, but I don't want waiting for 3 month.
>No reason to hack something together that won't be as good.
I've seen a trashed fridge on the side of the road... So compressor is free, but it might not work.
Also friend of mine uses salvaged compressor to pump up tires on car.
>Will they create sufficient suction?
>No.
What if I change oil to something thicker, like mineral engine oil?

Also, how do I empty those compressors, since R134a uses POE oil, which doesn't like moisture.



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