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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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"Little Christmas Trees" Edition

Old thread: >>1566323

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/7Sb4TVdy

>Need help with prints? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Bed & extruder temperature
>Print speed

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 7-1-2019]
Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 3
Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3 (Mk2 or Mk3)
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot or Ultimaker
Buyer beware: some chinkshit clones are garbage. Some can be genuinely good, though.
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusion 360 are free:
https://www.blender.org/
https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/
>>
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first for anti-prusa copypasta:
https://pastebin.com/jYCv1Rri
>>
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Who here /production/ mode?
>>
>>1570619
Is there some Cura plugin or something to help me position things optimally? When I click the Arrange button it generally just spergs out and claims there's no room even though there's plenty, and I'm sure my guesswork positioning isn't very good. If I need to print as many 28mm models as possible per run, what should I use to find the best layout? Some have circular bases, but since they usually overhang the platform I kind of need something better than googling "optimal circle placement".
>>
>>1570622
Does it look like I'm printing more than one thing on the plate per run? Why ask me?

That said, I've done what you're describing before with 28mm minis. Pack them yourself hexagonally, group by height with the tallest close to each other to reduce travels as the shorter ones finish.
>>
>>1570622
Meshmixer has a pretty good tool for bed layout; you do need to set up your printer's bed size first though.
>>
>>1570624
You asked about /production/ so I figured you might be able to help me /production/ too.
Grouping them by height is good advice, but hexagonal positions don't work when half of them are fairly circular and the other half are oval.
>>
>>1570612
>Stuff made by a European in his garage can't compare for price with stuff made by a Chinese corporation in a factory
Hear ye, hear ye, breaking news.
>>
Any of you want me to print some figurines? My uni has free 3dpg.

Send CADs stl files
>>
>>1570640
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2958460
This thing, with 100% infill and scaled up to 400%.
>>
>>1570640
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2955668
>>
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>>1570619
Yeah boi
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>>1570647
Have you considered branching out into airsoft?
>>
>>1570648
Nope. Airsoft doesn't interest me at all.
>>
>>1570641
Guidelines reject all nsfw projects. Not surprised, California bitchin as usual.
>>
>>1570641
Poor girl has Lordosis...
>>
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>>1570622
Position them yourself in a straight line, group models then multiply the group until the bed is full
>>
>>1570619
where do u sell these/where can i buy these?
>>
>>1570612
>here's some pre-packaged comebacks and gotchas, lads

Anon's trying so hard to make anti-Prusa a thing...
>>
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>>1570602
Not necessarily related with 3D printing, but any tips on what do I have to do if I tested a 3D printed design I made in Blender and I want about 100 replicas? Is it a big enough amount for someone to manufacture me a batch of these or should I ask for someone with 3D printing farms instead?
>>
>>1570629
Actually the prusa indie thing is not true for a long time now, he has a huge factory now and recently upgraded to even a bigger one
>>
I bought a leveling probe like 4 months ago and still haven't gotten around to installing it.. at this point i don't even know if i should bother. I only need to level the bed like once a month.
I will be opening the printer to change the fans so it would be a good opportunity but at this point it seems like waste of time.
Specially since i have to give up the z endstop.
>>
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>I would download a car.

This one looks like the individual parts are fairly easy to mimick. I've got to wonder if someone has made a CAD model for printers. (Also $220, just for that guy is a crazy asking price)
>>
>>1570612
fuck off, retard
>>
>>1570612
your bike is so fucking retarded.
Raceframe with clickies but without brakes. A short handlebar, to get least possible control - but its not a race bar but it has race tape. Tape on a straight bar is silly.
Please tell me it's a fixie.
And of course there has to be a brooks leather seat for Berlin hipster points.
Do you like to smell on your farts while riding this clusterfuck?

Corn dog holder with dipper is neat though.
I'll mod my bike with a car horn and a old laptop battery. Pedestrians are kamikazing on the streets here and I need a more powerful horn.
If the police gets salty I'll show them the traffic permit of the car horn.
>>
>>1570647
Nice! Are the transparent parts on the left also printed? If yes with what filament?
>>
>>1570850

Thafuq?

That bike's obviously got disk brakes and a drop bar.
>>
>>1570866
shit, you're right. looked like a straight bar on first glance
>>
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hello.
>>
Still need to dial in printer/camera settings but octolapse is neat.
>>
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I got tired of warped prints and I need to finish off the last vats worth of green so I printed a few minis I knew would come out perfect and the fucking dwarfs axe failed anyway
>>
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>>1570897
Son of a fuck, that's the wrong pic
>>
>>1570896
this is sex.
What % infill is that?
>>
>>1570901
4%
>>
>>1570901
>>1570902
To be honest, this was mostly printed to see how gyroid infill looks when timelapsed.
>>
>>1570896
Spoopy plent
>>
>>1570853
Nope, those are Nerf magazine.
>>
how many of you design your own models?
has anyone come up with a joint/hinge/lock system of their own?
>>
>>1570612
>muh prebuilt = bad
Face it, the Prusa is expensive because it's a developed package. Sure it has flaws, but it's the cheapest non-chinkshit printer you can buy today. There's a reason the Ender 3 is more popular now: it offers better value, at a pricepoint where people are willing to risk chinkshit QC problems. However, the Prusa 3 shouldn't be compared to that, rather, it's cheaper alternative to the Lulzbots and Ultimakers. It's for people that just want a printer that works. If you're the kind of guy that's OK with chinkshit quality, go ahead and get that.

>The Prusa is a piece of trash, that is not worth even $100.
I'd challenge you to make a 100$ printer to outperform the Prusa. If you do, it's because you're a good designer and builder, but the average guy will need at least 400-500$ in parts to equal Prusa quality. Add to that the research costs and overhead and 1000 USD seems like a fair price for the Prusa. If you think it's shit, why not just make a cheaper, better one yourself?
>>
>>1570921
A decently assembled Ender 3 is already printing in the same quality as the Prusa, and it comes with a much better screen and board (Melzi derivative). If I wanted to I could buy Ender 3 kits, install a new firmware, assemble them and add a BLTouch, and sell them, make a profit, and have a product much better than the Prusa at a lower price. The fact that the Prusa uses a non cantilever design that relies on slide bearings and printed plastic already makes it inferior, the Ender, while cheaper, has a better design and components that can survive in an ABS enclosure, unlike the Prusa.

The only thing that really baffles me about Creality is why the Ender 3 Pro doesn't have ABL. It would be very simple and cheap for them to sell it with a BLTouch or a Chinese copy (3DTouch), and that bumps it up to having all the features the Prusa brags about anyway, at a quarter the price.
>>
>>1570923
>and it comes with a much better screen and board (Melzi derivative).
The Ender3 comes with a board that uses drivers better than the Trinamic ones, the Prusa uses?
>>
>>1570926
It comes with a Chinese equivalent. Trinamic are overhyped.
>>
>>1570928
lol it comes with non-removable A4988s
literally the cheapest shittiest option available except for bitbanged darlington arrays
>>
>>1570923
>If I wanted to I could buy Ender 3 kits, install a new firmware, assemble them and add a BLTouch, and sell them, make a profit, and have a product much better than the Prusa at a lower price.
So why aren't you doing that?

>The only thing that really baffles me about Creality is why the Ender 3 Pro doesn't have ABL.
This is really wierd because they're selling the CR-10S Pro with ABL. The feature sucks compared to proper manual bed leveling anyways, but it baffles me why it isn't available at least.
>>
>>1570926
So the prusa has slightly less loud steppers. Whoop-de-doo, it still uses linear rods and cheap bearings that make way more noise anyway.
>>
>>1570938
>So the prusa has slightly less loud steppers. Whoop-de-doo
It still makes you a retard for saying the Ender3 comes with a better board.
>>
>>1570940
It's objectively a better board. 16 bits and more memory.
>>
>>1570896
Turn off auto focus.
>>
>>1570943
>16 bits
lol wat, barely anyone uses fucking 16 bit controllers anymore

Melzi uses an atmega644 or a atmega1284, which are both 8-bit.
>>
>>1570953
1284p has 16 bit timers, and that's the one used in the Ender. It's a melzi derivative, not a true melzi. Try it yourself, throw out your shitty Prusa, buy a Chinese masterrace Ender, and flash it with a 16 bit compiled Marlin. Runs perfectly.
>>
>>1570963
>1284p has 16 bit timers
so does the atmega2560 the Prusa uses

I own neither a Prusa nor an Ender.
I'm just calling out obvious dumb shit when I see it.
>>
>>1570967
In which case the Ender is still superior, since it has a faaar better screen.

Prusa was one of the reprap pioneers, I don't debate that, but he's obsolete now that the Chinese are mass-producing decent and cheap printers. If Creality would only ship the Ender 3 Pro with ABL in addition to the removable print bed they would have him beat on every point.
>>
I got one of those magnetic buildtaks a while back, and noticed now that it's become uneven. There's one particular area in the back that's about an entire mm higher than the rest of it, it bends back down when the nozzle moves over it so it still prints alright, it's just that everything printed in that particular area is a bit thinner, and since it's squished so much harder into the bed, harder to remove.

Do you reckon I could use an iron to smooth it out? As in, one of those things the non-autists use to remove wrinkles from clothes.
>>
>>1570973
I guess if the screen is really important to you.

Personally, I hate physically controlling all of those printers, where all you get is a rotary encoder.

I always use Duet's or Octoprint's web frontend.
>>
Guys, we don't have to derail every fucking /3DPG/ thread with Prusa vs Ender wank.
>>
>>1570985
Atleast it's not more delta vs cartesian shit flinging.
>>
>>1570988
Everything not CoreXY is gay.
>>
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>>1570988
>88
We must secure the existence of our 3D-printers and a future of our cartesian system.
>>
>>1570988
>give her the descartes
>>
>>1570990
wrong DW-G beats CoreXY in every aspect
>>
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this lil guy broke in half right off the plate
press f
>>
So guise, who's the worst - Prusa or Ender fanboys?
>>
>>1571060
Nobody gives a shit actually
>>
>>1570807
A quantity of 100 is a rather low batch size and wouldn't benefit cost-wise from any production method other than 3D printing unless its geometry really lends itself well to one.
>>
>>1570936
>>1570923
they sell a kit now
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Newest-Creality-3D-Printer-Part-BL-Touch-Bed-Leveling-For-CR-10-Ender-3-Creality-3D/32903813956.html
>>
>>1571090
I know, my question is why that stuff isn't stock on the Ender 3 Pro. I'm sure if you ask around, far more people will want automatic bed levelling than a magnetic bed and a thicker y axis extrusion.
>>
>>1571097
Which is stupid because ABL sucks compared to a properly leveled bed. I don't need no Z axis interpolating positions with microsteps and shaking my print off, thank you very much.
>>
>>1571103
You do of course realise that you're not forced to use it just because the printer has it installed.
For someone like me who prints pretty casually, having the printer ready to go immediately is very convenient, my process is literally just turn the power on, load the stl into cura, click slice, and click print on octoprint. I adjust the bed every now and then, but in general the autoleveling works perfectly, I've never had a problem with adhesion.

Though my printer is an old A8, the ender is far more professional looking.
>>
>>1571097
because creality is retarded and there's nothing pro about the pro, might as well just be ender 3.1
>>
>>1571140
This anon gets it. In a sea of bad design and bad decisions Creality made one redeeming move and made the Ender 3 open source. It became the new hotness but most normalfags don't realize apart from this one move Creality is pretty retarded. The whole reason there's a million and one printable upgrades for the Ender 3 is because it's poorly thought out. The opening that lets plastic debris onto the mainboard, the axes that are a fucking pain the adjust, putting a 1kg weight (filament spool) on top of a machine that's prone to rocking back & forth, a PSU that could have been dropped a fucking inch and doubled as a brace instead of being a strain on the frame, there's just a lot to be desired.
>>
>>1570612
what the fuck is that? potato on a stick?
>>
>>1571213
pussymagnet
>>
Has anybody bought that cheap aluminum extruder for the ender 3? Do you have a guide on how to put it together? I can pretty much figure it out just looking at the images but Im not sure where I need to use the lock washer

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/CR-10-CR10-Extruder-Upgraded-Aluminum-MK8-Drive-Feed-3D-Printer-Extruder-for-Creality-CR10-CR/32977163376.html
>>
>>1571246
the bearing screw obvious
but i'd ditch that for a dab of thread locker or nothing at all
they really are useless
>>
>>1571169
>made the Ender 3 open source
You have a Chinese slut on reddit to thank for that. They refused to listen to the billions of CR10 fans until someone told her to tell them that open source was better, and then they did it immediately.
>>
>>1571280
>Chinese slut
Naomi Wu?

Also Ender3 uses Marlin, it would be illegal to withhold source modifications since it's GPL licensed.
>>
>>1571282
That's her.

Yes, it was quite illegal, but it's not as if the Chinese government was ever going to prosecute them, or the USA or EU governments were going to ban sales of their products over a complaint from a few programmers on the internet.
>>
>>1571261
thats where I was going to put it unless someone told me otherwise also the screw pokes out the other side so the washer gives some buffer for that
>>
>>1571280
if a pretty girl told you to do something you would do it as well
nobody gives a shit about some peeved gross neckbears, but a breddy grill? if you do what she says maybe she will flash you
>>
>>1571302
Google her name, you retard. "Chinese Slut" is the perfect descriptor, regardless of your personal opinion on her.
>>
>>1571302
>pretty girl
>>
>>1571422
I'm not that anon but, despite the large amount of plastic, you cant say you wouldn't duck that down.
>>
>>1571530
Her being just makes me sad; I got over the cringe factor and actually watched one of her videos and was surprised to find that she isn't actually a complete idiot as I had thought, but nevertheless chose to market herself that way. She could've done something worthwhile with her life but instead chose to get ridiculously fake bolt on tits and start making semi nude youtube videos with her boyfriend running the show in the background to fulfill her exhibitionist mental illness.
>>
>>1571282
>illegal
The Chinese have no problems violating licenses.
>>
>>1571213
corndogs
american breakfast item consisting of a low-quality hot dog dipped in corn bread
>>
>>1570900
>prints keep failing
Have you considered that you're placing the supports wrong? Care to share a sliced picture?
>>
>>1571594
>breakfast
Nigger you what
>>
>>1571285
>open source is illegal in China
Either I'm misunderstanding something or this sounds like a really stupid idea. I'm leaning towards the first.
>>
>>1571597
If you eat corndogs for dinner I don't know what to tell you. Lunch is a pass if it's a quick one or one of those stands at the fair, I don't really understand why you would have those things outside of breakfast otherwise
>>
What filament has the best layer adhesion? I've been printing strike indicators for fly fishing, design uses a threaded piece on top of the indicator with a notch in it to hold the line and a small nut just screws on to hold it. Issue I'm having is with PLA over torquing the nut shears off the threaded bit and it's useless after only a few depth adjustments. I'm using a stock hotend, stock extruder CR-10. I've heard you can use 90-95a TPU in a stock extruder, but if more flexible would work better I can just do the mod. Would PETG, HIPS, or Nylon work with the stock CR-10 and or be a good option?
>>
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I've found my new favorite printing technique:

>plane cut the model in the orientation that provides the greatest surface area and print it flat with few or hopefully no supports
>weld the broad sides together with acetone/ABS slurry, purposefully overfilling easy-to-sand areas to get squeeze out that can easily be sanded perfectly flush later
>fill seam and other gaps with super glue gel, then hit it with CA curing accelerant (Zip Kicker)
>CA cures instantly and can be sanded or filed instantly

The print time and material is a lot lower than using supports
Models can usually be split into a lot fewer parts
The pieces will not come apart
The welded faces provide a huge amount of internal strength and absolutely won't separate once the ABS slurry is dry
The CA glue gel fills volumes, cures instantly, holds strong, sands easily without getting pulled out of the hole, and takes paint well - no other gap-filling material I've tried meets all these requirements (Bondo, Apoxie, epoxy adhesives, epoxy resin coats, spot putty, ABS slurry, plaster, 3D pen, filler primer, baking soda/CA liquid glue)

The only caveats are you need your bed adhesion to be on fleek for this to work and you lose printing resolution in areas you probably aren't used to losing it in. I often find that I have to cut off arms and legs and join them back to the bodies later but the seam is easy enough to hide using the same method.
>>
>>1570949
Autofocus is off! I bumped the tripod a few times.
I suspect that the flicker is from the aperture not being exactly the same each time. (even thought it is being manually set)
>>
>>1570906
The plant was there for this exact reason. I think I'm going to do some plant time lapses next.
>>
>>1571609
I cut my models with a dovetail or multiple dovetails in it. When I draw my dovetail I go in and add a thickness before using it as a cut tool. The thickness you need to play with depending on your printer and material, but I'm at the point where I can friction fit with the help of a rubber malot without glue. Though you could totally use glue and then sand the surfaces like you mention
>>
>>1571609
...Can you provide an example or three? I get the general idea but that sounds like a lot to do
>>
>>1570896
How much additional time is added on to the print to do something like this? 1.1x, 1.5x, 2x? I imagine moving the print head out of the way every layer takes a while.
>>
>>1571443
I would not.
>>
>>1571643
I'd say it adds maybe 5%-10% more to time to the print. it's pretty fast at moving the print head/taking the shot

Thought I could get away with not using the AC adapter for the camera here.. unfortunately not.
>>
>>1570896
>that leaf
>>
>>1571599
It was quite illegal to violate the license, but they did it anyway because the Chinese government was never going to prosecute.
>>
>>1571608
Some PETG brands can be printed in a stock CR10, some others require all metal hotends since they only print well above 240 degrees.
PETG is your best bet for layer adhesion, print it slowly and hotly and that stuff literally fuses with the other layers, your bed, the outside of your nozzle, anything really.
>>
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>>1571729
I've printed lots of PETG stuff @255-260°C on my all stock Ender 3. - M4P PETG brand
(pic related, both parts were printed @255°C; 260 first layer)
Took out the bowden recently and no harm was done, just a bit darker towards the hotend.

Problems with temps above 240°C are a myth and full metal hotends are snake oil wank. Just my opinion...
At least with the bowden that came with my Ender.

>>1571608
I'm having 0 problems with layer adheison on my stock Ender bed. PETG sticks even better, almost too good. Haven't tried the glass bed yet.
Just make sure to give the bed a good ethanol/isopropanol/break cleaner wash, to remove any fats or oils
>>
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>>1571596
Its not really a support issue, it was a series of rookie mistakes and I was trying to print things what were too heavy, or oddly shaped for a resin printer
>>
>>1571735
Oh and I have my first layer bed temp @ 80°C and after the first layer @ 65°C for both PLA and PETG.
>>
>>1570896
wtf that plant is alive
>>
>>1571735
The problem isn't that the bowden will melt or deform or such. Over time it will, but that'll be months of continuous use, if you only print PETG occasionally it'll be fine, like you say. The issue is rather that at temperatures of about 240 and up the ptfe in the tube will begin giving off toxic gasses. I wouldn't print PETG on mine without having it very well ventilated, because I don't fancy brain damage.
>>
>>1571749
>wtf plants are actually living things
>>
Anyone know where I can find the writeup where some dude calculated the resolution for a delta and mapped it out.
>>
>>1571811
nevermind, I found it. I was to stupid to try resolution as a search term.
>>
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>>1571642
I can document the process fully next time I make something, I think I'll make a Skarmory using the method - print the legs separately, use laser cut plastic for the wings, and bisect the model down the sagittal plane from beak to tail tip. The robot legs in the OP are mine though, for a bit of reference.
>>
Anyone here can recommend me some Eruopean filament seller, and while at it, some of his favorite choices? I need something on 1.75mm to dial my diy printer build on, and if I can keep printing decent structural pieces (planing on some plane RC stuff) afterwards with it would be even nicer...

Thanks in advance!
>>
>>1571865
I've been using Prima, they're a Swedish brand, but Amazon has their own low-price stuff that is pretty good too.
>>
How goes the anime girl making?
>>
>>1571865
Where are you located?
>>
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Can printers handle laying holes like this without support?
>>
>>1571888
Yep. You might need to core them out with a drill if it's particularly big, but for stuff like M5 or smaller bolts it's fine.
>>
>>1571888
yes
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>>1571888
If the hole is less than about 5-6mm, depending on the printer, yes. The roof of a hole is always going to be an overhang, and most FDM printers don't do well with that without support.
>>
>>1571865
i buy from some local producer called azurefilm
they sell 5 x 0.5kg packs of whatever colours you choose for 40 euro
it's not the best filament but it's a bargain
>>
>>1571877
Thanks I'll check em out

>>1571883
Spain

>>1571900
I think multiplecolors isn't for me, i think a big spool would be better, but then again I have achimera so 2 multiple spools might not be bad in order to sort out the offsets...
>>
>>1571888
If I don't want to have to touch them up after printing I model holes like that with a teardrop shape (pointy end up).
>>
>>1571735
What are your print speeds on ender 3 with petg? I tried it but it worked only at 40mm/s max. I was wondering if i could get it any faster on the ender without facing layer delamination or wet noodles instead of overhangs.
>>
>>1570794
I don't; it would almost certainly be a cease and desist letter from nanoleaf as it is just a straight ripoff of their design. Just print them from one of the many copies off thingiverse.
>>
>>1571970
30mm/s. I love PETG, but it isn't a fast material to print.
>>
Pretty sure I got memed. Bought a set of those yellow springs everyone raves about. With them installed I can't get the buildplate low enough for the nozzle to get clearance on my glass surface on top.
>>
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What went wrong here? Where would I even start to try to fix it?

Ender 3
Cura
Layer height .15
100% infill
216C and 60C bed Sunlu PLA+
>>
>>1572085
>100% infill
>>
>>1572155
Print quality tests must be made as durable as possible!
>>
>>1571970
5mm/s on the first layer, 60 on the rest.
>>
>>1572155
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2806295\
thats what it says to do
>>
>>1572085
>Layer height .15
for what purpose
>>
>>1572168
https://www.thingiverse.com/make:614835
>>
>>1572176
The magic numbers for the Ender 3 Z-axis are 0.04mm and 0.0025mm. Those are the full step and 1/16th microstep values.

Although because the Z-axis has a tendency to bind, I don't think a consistent single microstep resolution is very likely to happen (as it only has 1/16th the torque, 6.25%, to use for that move), I tend to use full step divisible layers (0.04, 0.08, 0.12, 0.16, 0.20, 0.24 and 0.28) and (when I use it) limit adaptive layers to half-step resolution of 0.02mm.
>>
>>1571735
Not really asking because I have bad layer adhesion, my prints are largely flawless. But when you throw PLA into 40 degree or less water over and over it gets brittle. Not sure if youve ever flyfished but you have to adjust the indicator to allow the flies to get to the depth the fish are sitting at. The brittle combined with repeated use causes the threaded piece to break.

Thats why I was thinking TPU could work, but Ive also never tried PETG.
>>
>>1572178
I will try this I only went with .15 because it was a default
>>
>>1572167
There's zero point to that. The only part that's getting infilled on the model is the plate that everything else is sitting on.
>>
>>1571691
Go back to reddlt.
>>
>>1570602
I've decided that I want one. What hardware and software are /diy/ approved?
>>
>>1570602
Has anyone here built a mpcnc? Considering pulling the trigger.
>>
>>1572218
The hardware CAD software are literally listed in the OP...

Also CURA.
>>
>>1572223
>The hardware CAD software are literally listed in the OP...
Oh shit I'm retarded. Thanks anon.
>>
>>1571752
>toxic PTFE fumes
They come at 300°C+. The hottest part of the PTFE is also a little colder than the top nozzle temp.

>>1571970
I'm also printing about 40mm/s max for PETG maybe 50mm/s for infill on big parts.

>>1572181
Yeah, PLA isn't durable at all. PETG is a lot better.
>>
Looking for a new printer. Any thoughts on qidi xpro vs flashforge creator pro? Anything better with dual extruder in that price rwnge?
>>
>>1571877
I used a roll of the Amazon stuff. Shitty coloring and I had to print the first layer at 230, but it otherwise sticks to the bed and prints quite well. I thought it was the worst stuff ever but as I use more and more filament brands I realize a lot can be said for PLA that can print consistently good once you figure it out.
>>
>>1572085
First make a proper lighted pic please, very hard to see the whole thing.

Second, check all mechanics on your printer. I'd bet that either the x axis is lose or the y axis. Does the bed wiggle? Does the extruder wiggle? Everything tight and square? Excentric nuts adjusted? Z-drive nice, tight and allinged?

Third go down to 205°C nozzle and use a different filament brand and color. Like amazon basics PLA.

0.15mm LH and 100% infill is fine, don't listen to these:
>>1572155
>>1572168
>>
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I am changing fans in my printer because they are the cheapest piece of shit imaginable and so incredibly loud they make your eyes bleed. And you don't even use eyes for hearing.

Do you think i should just snip the old one off and solder the new one onto the wires? I think that is the best solution without having to put a crapton of needless work into running a new fan wire into the printer.
The quality fan has 3 wires, but i am not going to use the 3rd one anyway since i want it always to run at max rpm.
>>
>>1572386
Two wire fans are brushed, they're controlled by changing the voltage (or more commonly by using pwm on the positive pin). Three wire fans are brushless, they're controlled by pwm to a signal pin, and full voltage constantly applied to the positive and ground pins. If the signal pin receives no signal, the fan is just going to be off, and I don't think the signal pin is going to be happy if you just feed it 12V directly, they're designed to be fed from computer motherboard power out pins, which operate at 3.3V. Before you snip anything, check if your fan will run at all in two pin mode, sit down with a 6V or so battery and some dupont jumpers and try to get it running with just the power pins.
>>
>>1572395
>fan is just going to be off,
it's not, i already tested it, it works fine with just two wires used, it's rated for 12V as well, so there is not going to be any problem. I actually haven't seen a single pc fan yet that wouldn't run on just two wires and i used several of them in various projects like that.
Seems that the 3rd wire is only for regulating the speed but if you need to do that there is no problem
>>
>>1572396
I see. In that case, I expect the speed regulation to still work, just not as accurately as the fan is capable of. If the fan is set to go full blast if it receives power but no signal, lowering the voltage it receives will slow it down.
>>
>>1572395
>Two wire fans are brushed
No, they aren't.
All those small dc fans are brushless.

Have you never removed the impeller of one of those? It's pretty becomes pretty obvious when you do.
>>
>Prusa i3 MK2
>PREHEAT ERROR
Why is this happening and why are 3D printers so fucking unreliable? I just got this thing 2 months ago. I'm fed up, I just want to finish my project and not have to battle with endless breakdowns
>>
>>1572425
>>PREHEAT ERROR
The thermistor has an intermittent connection. Either one of the solder joints is broken, a wire is shorting, or a connection is otherwise loose.

Every printer develops this error over time.
>>
>>1572429
I give up on home 3D printing, I'm just going to send the files to a company. Into the trash this printer goes.
>>
>>1572429
Not Chinese printers. They disable the firmware safeties that cause these errors, so you can continue printing even with a broken printer.
>>
>>1570850
Found the /n/igger lol
>>1570896
Spooky, I'm watching futurama right now.
>>
>>1572433
mail it to me
>>
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Has anyone ever actually tried vapor smoothing PLA with tetrahydrofuran? It's not THAT expensive and you could recover most of the vapor if you're smart about it
>>
What is the most reliable printer? Ultimaker? This is why people buy Apple, because it just works.
>>
>>1572483
People buy Apple because it's shiny. Nothing about it is reliable.
People buy Ultimaker because it's a well-designed reliable product.
>>
>>1572483
Stratasys
>>
>>1572489
You can buy a CNC mill for less.
>>
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>>1572386
yay! success


amazing, the brand 40mm fan is moving the same amount of air as the loud as fuck turbine 30mm chinky fan, but you can barely hear it at all

now i just need to solder the wires, and tidy up the cables

now i can't wait to replace the piece of shit fan on the inside of the pritner that is somehow even louder than the 30mm shitboy
>>
>>1572487
Plebs buy it because it's shiny. Professionals buy it because MacOS is more reliable than Windows.
>>
>>1572510
MacOS is garbage and crashes about as often as Windows.
Use Linux.
>>
>>1572516
t. never owned a mac
Macs are shit but they don't crash near as much as windows.
>>
>>1572528
I did, though.

The worst OS I ever used was MacOS 9 - literally worse than Windows ME.

OS X was a big improvement (just like NT) but it's still crap.
Unless you're using buggy third-party drivers (hello ati card owners) it isn't any more stable than 7 (never used 8 or 10).
>>
>>1572533
Sorry I misread you and jumped the gun.
Yes MacOS was a pile of garbage. X is much better though I've had maybe 3 crashes in 7 years and that was from the hardware being shit I'm guessing.
>>
>>1572504
Any fan you put in there will get louder over time because the fan sucks up tiny strings of plastic while it's printing. You have to make mods to protect the fans or it will happen again.
>>
>>1572586
Wtf no
>>
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>>1572483
If you want reliability, it will cost you, always. Either time, effort, money, or a combination of the three. Sadly the biggest side effect of reliability is lack of controll or options. Like cars, it's either bare bones or completely protected from user modification. Anything that reduces failure points also reduces options. Just my opinion
But decent parts, learn how to tune and maintain, and dont do stupid stuff. All the same tips for car and tool care.

On another note, I realised today I'm a damn mormon. I've been having bed adhesion issues for a year which has lead me to gradually mothball the thing. Turns out I mistakenly fudged the first layer extrusion width setting and was trying to print a .225mm line with a .5mm nozzle. Fixed it to print 1mm with a .4 layer height and haven't had a single issue on the last three prints.
Goes to show, pay close attention to all your settings.
>>
>>1572619
Meant to say moron obviously.
>>
>>1572620
Mormon, moroni, moron.
>>
>>1570619
What do these do?
>>
>>1571280
You mean her husband told her to tell them considering she's a sock puppet for her genuinely talented husband to market himself as a meme woman of color in tech.
>>
>>1572646
It's pretty funny.
She recently fought with Brianna Wu about who's the bigger "victim".
>>
>>1572646
God i wish i had a hot braindead gf to fuck and use to make monies
>>
Printing a LEGO set for my nephew. Wish me luck, I'm using PETG instead of ABS since I don't have an enclosure, but I imagine being slightly more flexible could actually be a good thing here.
>>1572655
She's not braindead. Just knowing English as a chink shows that she's pretty well educated, most of their engineers don't even know English.
It's just that she doesn't have any particular talent.
>>
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Who else prints these little 1:100 tanks at bigger scale as shelf decorations? I'll be painting these commie bad boys tomorrow.
>>
>>1571282
>Naomi Wu
Are there any female tech youtubers who do anything beyond flash their tits for views?
>>
>>1572673
Jeri Ellsworth
>>
>>1572673
Simone Giertz, but she doesn't do anything serious.
>>
>>1572516
I've had a Mac since last year November and it hasn't crashed once.
>>1572533
>The worst OS I ever used was MacOS 9
MacOS was getting tired and falling behind but they fixed it with OS X as you said. Forgive them.
>it isn't any more stable than 7 (never used 8 or 10).
7 is only stable because it was stripped down, it's old anyway so no point comparing. OS X is way better than the garbage on offer from Microsoft today.
>>1572546
They renamed OS X to MacOS. Actual MacOS is now called MacOS Classic.
>>
>>1572677
R.I.P
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tpa4kp4lK60
>>
>>1572679
>they fixed it with OS X
They didn't so much fix it as replace it. OSX is built on BSD, and has nothing in common with old MacOS beyond the name. It's closer related to Linux and Android than it is to MacOS.
>>
>>1572680
Nah, she had it removed and sent to antarctica.
Then it came back again in january and she went missing for months.
But I just discovered she's back three days ago. Guess they cut it out of her again.
>>
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>>1572681
Please don't insult Linux.

It's a horrible abomination with some shit stolen from FreeBSD.
Doesn't really have anything to do with Linux.
>>
>>1572689
That research kernel comes from the BSD project. It is still related to Linux, it's just sort of like that Down's third cousin we all have.

And of course Apple aren't going to use a Linux kernel in their operating system. Their entire computer brand revolves around the pretty OS on the pretty laptop, if anyone could buy one of the more expensive Dells and slap Linux and a pirated OSX shell on it, they would lose that.
>>
>>1572694
>That research kernel comes from the BSD project. It is still related to Linux
Linux and the BSD kernel are unrelated. They can not truly share code, since you can't relicense GPL to BSD.

>and a pirated OSX shell on it, they would lose that.
You can already pirate OS X.
You wouldn't want too though because it's awful on different hardware.
The advantage that OS X has is that it only has to run on hardware the same people make.
>>
>>1572689
Fusion360 can't even run on Linux, it's trash for any actual work.
>>
>>1572726
Take that back, you little DOS faggot.
>>
>>1572640
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3230905
Also functions as a triangular prostate massager
>>
>>1572085
over extrusion and make sure ironing is disabled
>>
>>1572671
link?
>>
I need a bit of help with marlin config. I would like to enable the bed thermistor so the printer can know and show the bed temperature on the display, but i do not want to enable bed temperature controls, since the printer doesn't control the power to the bed.
Is that possible somehow?
Is that possible?
>>
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If I had to guess, I'd say the PTFE tube overheated and disintegrated here, right? I don't really know how it happened, is there an easy fix or will I have to replace the hotend?
>>
>>1573000
Why do you think it is like you say?
The photo is horrible.
What symptoms did you have during printing?
How does the end of your PTFE tube look like?
>>
>>1573000
>heat hotend to 240
>pull out ptfe tube
>cut out the bad part using a box cutter
>push tube inside hotend all the way a couple times to clear the debris
>put everything back
There
>>
>>1573023
Total blockage, nothing is coming out of the nozzle. Tried to pull the filament out and it doesn't budge.
>>1573028
Going to try this. No idea how it could've gotten hot enough to damage it but I can only assume that's what happened.
>>
>>1573000
you have womens hands
>>
>>1573029
Probably bad coupling led to the tube pulling out a bit and the filament clogged everything
Judging from your pic you got a creality so the stock couplers are shit. Buy new ones from amazon. And make sure you cut the tube exactly flat and push it al the way to the nozzle when putting everything back. Watch some youtube vids.
>>
>>1573037
Thanks, they feel great to beat off with.
>>
>>1573038
I disconnected both couplers, there was a decent blockage in the tube, and a boatload of garbage inside the hotend which I pushed out with the tube, but I think I'll have to replace the tube. Any couplers you can recommend?
Also yes, it's an Ender 3 like everyone else.
>>
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I am trying to calibrate the slicing settings of a new printer we got and was wondering if there is a way to get the waviness off the side of these prints. Ignoring that I fucked up its adhesion to the text bed. How can I fix this? I also have the issue with the top where the infill seems like it is over extruding as the hexagonal infill turns into bloated circles, but the top seems to be under extruded because of the gaps. Any tips for what settings to shoot for? I am using slic3r and am new to it, I have always used simplify3D before.
>>
>>1573038
>Cut the tube flat
I struggled with this last time I had to play with some bowden. What's the best way to do it; put some filament inside so it doesn't crush the tube as much?
>>
>>1573062
The waviness is called ghosting; it's caused by vibrations from your printer. Remove as much vibration as possible from your printer; make sure all your belts are tight, brace up the parts you can brace, lower your print speed, etc.
>>
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>>1573040
eternal rekt
>>
So in the marlin config file it says this
1 : 100k thermistor - best choice for EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup)

does that mean that there is a 4.7 built in pull up or that i need to add a 4.7k pull up resistor myself in series with the thermistor?
>>
>>1573076
Does decreasing the jerk settings help with that or should that be one of the last things attempted?
>>
anyone know where I can get f@t dr@g0n terrain and miniatures models? no luck on the bay
>>
>>1573062
Turn down your printer's jerk speed. I did that to mine last night and the ghosting disappeared.

Ender 3 in case anyone was wondering. Turned it down to 8, from 10.
>>1573073
I sliced it as flat as I could with an X-Acto knife and sanded the end.
>>
>>1573108
Ive heard jerk can reduce ghosting but if you go much lower than 8 or so other issues begin to show.
>>
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>the mm/s^2^2 store called, they want you back

Comedy gold
>>
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I am continuing with silencing this noisy shit (nah, it prints great, but it is loud as fuck)

After changing the nozzle fan for one that is barely audible, i now removed the jet turbine from the inside of the printer and replaced it with another very silent fan of same size
But i noticed, that the jet engine draws .11A compared to the same sized .025A draw on the silent fan, and indeed it blows roughly 3 times less air which sucks, but not really, because because if it sucked more it wouldn't suck.
Now, since the power source for the bed heating is outside of the printer, the only real source of heat inside are stepper drivers so i could maybe get away with the weaker air flow... but fuck that, i ain't risking a house fire, but at the same time i don't want to give up the soothing silence, so i slapped a second much larger fan on the outside, so now it actually moves more air than the jet engine, while still being super silent.
I will need to print a guard for the fan, but i am pretty happy with how it is going so far.
>>
>>1573227
Sharp edges start getting a little bloated and rounded out when it gets too low
>>
>>1573000
Check'd
Also are you him? >>1572504

If that is the case, gotta say the fan mod didn't work
>>
>>1573304
Good work!
>>
>>1573304

How can a fan like that draw 11A?
>>
>>1573315
Make two rings with your hands, put them on your eyes, and read that number again
>>
>>1573181
There are a hundred different PTFE cutting guides on thingiverse that will let you cut a perfect end every time. Easier, faster, and more reliable than trying to sand one. An angle bracket will probably work too. When you put it back together first snug the nozzle to the hot end, then back it off one full turn. Reassemble the bowden coupler making sure to push the ptfe tube right up against the nozzle. After you tighten the bowden coupler re-tighten the nozzle. The Ender 3 has the PTFE butt up against the nozzle and if there's any empty space in there molten filament gets in and causes issues. That's why it's very important to have the PTFE cut clean and straight.
For the other end, do the same but back off the bowden coupler. This is not as important, but if it can prevent the PTFE from flexing even just a little it will improve print quality.
Anyway there's my rant for now. I should shut up, I haven't printed anything since the last thread.
>>
>>1573351
It doesn't actually need to be all that precise as long as the tread on your nozzle is tight. Plastic will slowly seep in, and about halfway through will polymerise into a hard brown goop and block any more plastic from getting through.
>>
What should I do with my broken Prusa? Are the parts worth anything or should I just throw it away? These kit printers, they are only good for printing the occasional Yoda figurine but if you are making TV-sized industrial parts 12 hours a day they're trash, just break down too often and the quality varies too much.
>>
>>1571865
Depending on your definition of Europe, BestFilament. They're Siberian (Tomsk), and have the most consistent diameter and pigment I've found yet. Just don't be too picky about which side of the Urals it's made on.
>>
>>1573413
Print some spare parts or order some spare parts printed, then sell it on craigslist. It'll probably be something like a ten or twenty dollar investment at most to get the spares, and then you can sell the printer on for at least a hundred.
>>
>>1573421
I'm not really sure what spare part I need, someone said the thermistor is broken but I haven't tested this. Maybe I'll just give it away, One of you would probably get it working again easily
>>
>>1573422
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-E3D-Thermistor-Cartridge-E-SEMITEC-50-MOLEX/dp/B072HNL9MR
If it is the thermistor, easiest option is to buy the thing I linked. It's a new thermistor, inside an E3D cartridge (the one the Prusa uses), with the wires. It's pretty simple to replace, you unscrew the bolt holding it in place on the hot end, pull the old one out, shove the new one in, and tighten the bolt back up again. Not too tightly, or you might crush the cartridge, but tight enough that it won't shake itself free. Then just follow the wires of the old thermistor and plug the new one in where the old one was connected to the printer control board.

Then either keep using your printer, since this isn't a super common part to break, or cut your losses and sell it on Craigslist as "mint condition", since nobody is going to be able to spot a changed thermistor cartridge.
>>
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Hey guys I have a question with blender, and hopefully someone can help me.


Ok so I am working on a project, and the wearable rpi camera that adafruit has in their tutorial here is perfect for my project
>https://learn.adafruit.com/raspberry-pi-wearable-time-lapse-camera/overview

Anyways I bought a 5MP 1080p camera for my rpi zero w, and the ribbon connector is hitting one of the micro usb ports, anways I shaved some of the latch off but it still hit it, so I opened the stl file in blender
>pic related

and my goal was to move the standoff and hole together, which I managed to do (the orange highlights

My question is, is there a quicker was to select the whole wall around the cylinder like I did so I don't need to click each individual one?
>>
Has anybody bought a chink ABL sensor from aliexpress? Which one should I get for my Ender 3?
>>
>>1573446
Convert it to quads(Select it and Alt-J), then double-right-click the top and bottom rings while holding Shift for multi-select. After you're done modifying it be sure to convert everything back to tris(Ctrl-T) before you export.
>>
>>1573448
I've bought two! The first was a SN-04N, which is an inductive sensor with an effective range of about 2mm when powered by the power from the switch. You need inverted switch logic in Marlin for it to work, but it's okay. I dropped it when I bought a magnetic bed, because it couldn't detect the bed through the buildtak and glue magnet plate. My second was a "3DTouch", which is a BLTouch clone. I've been using it for three months now and it works great, but to use it with the Ender3 you either need to buy a breakout board or splice it into the display cable. It's called a "pin 27 board", and you can get that from China too for almost nothing. I bought both together in a bundle on ebay, together with the extension cords you need to plug it in.
>>
>>1573454
thanks ill probably buy one so I can use a coupon before it expires
>>
>>1573449
I found out about box select (B + left click drag) that seems to help quicker too
>>
>>1573304
>A fan, 4x the power of another fan, is 4 times as loud.
Whoa duuude!
You could've got away with just soldering a resistor in the lead of the old fan to get it down to 0.25A. Done that in the past on other electronics.

>There are a hundred different PTFE cutting guides on thingiverse
And there are porpably 100 ass wiping guides on thingiverse. Doesn't mean you need one.
Just cut it carefully with a scalpell/exacto, it's not rocket science. And christ don't sand it. No need to make everything as complicated as possible.
>>
>>1573312
Nope not me, i am having no issues printing with the fan upgrade, it wouldn't make any sense to have, since i make sure the new fan moves about the same amount of air onto the block
>>
>>1573566
When compared on same RPMs the original fan was much louder than the new replacement fan.
My printer is running lots of hours per day and it is 100cm away from me most of the time, so i have no problems shelling out for quality fans to reduce the noise.

also i don't need to cut any ptfe....?
>>
>>1573317

That worked thx
>>
>>1573570
>and it is 100cm away
wew, I put mine on a small table in the storeroom.
No where else to put it in your flat?

>don't need to cut ptfe
forgot the second quote
>>1573351
>>
>>1573588
my apartment is no larger than most prison cells
the only option is reducing noise pretty much
kind of sucks i can't do bigger prints tho, since i can only print during day
>>
>>1573590
Sounds horrible, have you considered moving elsewhere?
>>
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>>1570602
>BU researchers develop 'acoustic metamaterial' that cancels sound
>Boston University mechanical engineers create synthetic, sound-silencing structure that blocks 94 percent of sounds

https://www.eurekalert.org/pub_releases/2019-03/bu-brd030619.php

how can I print one?
>>
>>1573446
>is there a quicker was to select the whole wall around the cylinder like I did so I don't need to click each individual one?
Yeah, by modeling your parts in Solid CAD software instead of mesh-based software.
>>
>>1573618
why do that when you can just stab your eardrums with a needle?
>>
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>>1573446
>modeling mechanicals parts with blender
wtf is wrong with you ??
>>
>>1573730
Even worse, Adafruit published the fusion360 source - but instead of using that he imported the STL in blender.
>>
>>1573734
Yikes
>>
>>1573446
what the fuck is this guy's problem
>>
>>1573618
looks like a spiral inside a ring
>>
Has anyone upgraded their i3 printer to a corexy. Is it worth it? I was going to do a z brace mod thing but was considering the corexy design because of faster printing and less layer problems.
>>
>>1573811
fuck corexy, cartesian or whatever is better
i'll accept corexy only if bed size is over 300x300
>>
>>1573730
>>1573734
Not him, but if you can't learn how to use Blender you probably won't ever get the most out of your printer. I can edit STLs in Blender just fine because I already make detailed models with it.
>>
>>1573841
>wanting to do artsy projects
baka anon
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XZXadrjIm_4
This is neat.
The rack and pinion Y-axis seems pretty damn elegant.
How would that compare to a belt driven system in terms of affecting print quality/maintenance?
>>
>>1573846
rack and pinion, especially 3d printed will probably develop quite some slop
belt is better imho, i get that he wanted to go fully 3d printed but he should have just folded there, bought the belts and just printed the pulleys
>>
>>1573425
I think I found the problem, someone said on a forum that sometimes a thermistor taped under the heat bed can come loose and there is indeed a wire with a round shaped end loose underneath the heat bed
>>
>>1573425
I duct taped whatever it is back onto the underside of the bed, we'll see if that works.
>>
SUCCESS!
>>
How do I repair this properly though? There is some shiny tape in the middle of the underside of the bed. Do you think I could unscrew the bed and slot the thermistor back into this tape or would I need new tape?
>>
I rage deleted Slicr, I need to reinstall that.
>>
>>1573867
just get some heat resistant tape/glue and tape the thermistor back onto the bottom of the bed, simple as that
>>
>>1573618
Bretty cool, I wonder if you could stack several on top of each other to block a variety of sounds rather than just one specific use case per structure.
>>
>>1573878
Is duct tape not heat resistant?
>>
>>1573590
Why not just buy a pair of those foam earbuds the prole workers have and sleep with those blocking out the noise?
>>
>>1573890
no
>>
>>1573890
It is, but the glue looses its stickiness over time.

Best bet is to just glue it on. Buy a "thermally conductive epoxy", something like this. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Thermally-Conductive-Epoxy-Adhesive-TC-2707/?N=5002385+3294001761&rt=rud
Chinese is fine.
>>
>>1573730
>>1573843

I'm not that anon, but i use Blender for designing parts and it works fine. It's definitely much slower to rapidly draw up a design and iterate on it, but on the other hand you get a perfect STL without any of the crap triangulation that regular CAD software does. I wouldn't recommend it to someone starting out, but if you already know how to model in blender it's an easy choice.
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>>1573897
Thanks.
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>>1573730
anon, that's an enclosure, not a mechanical part...
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>>1573935
An enclosure is a mechanical part, you nincompoop.
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>>1573942

tomato tamato sure sure.
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>>1573947
I think what he means is that it's a technical part, not a sculpture which is what Blender is usually for.
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>>1573971
Exactly. It's a "CAD", not a "model", it's just not a particularly exciting mechanism, in that there are no moving parts or much complexity.
>>
>best printer under 500 dollars
>costs more than 500 dollars
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>>1573730
I model mechanical parts in Wings3D. It's all I know. I tried Blender but got as far as left clicking around uselessly and then rage quitting. It's got to be the most unintuitive interface ever. Dedicated free CAD software tends to leave a lot to be desired.
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>>1570973

>Preferring mass produced chinkshit to homemade
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>>1573913
I learned my shit in Maya, and I dread the day I run out of university email addresses for student Maya licenses and have to learn Blender...or pop on over to CGPeers I guess
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>>1574029
There's a couple of key preference changes you need to make so that you don't immediately want to smash your screen in when trying to use it. I'd say mainly disabling the 3d cursor being bound to right click. I mean since every software ever uses right click as a popup context menu.

The interface is heavily shortcut dependent, but I actually learned to use it way more easily than any autodesk product.
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>>1570963
>and flash it with a 16 bit compiled Marlin
Is the stock firmware not 16 bit?

I want to flash it, but I'm worried about losing factory settings and having to re-calibrate marlin for it.
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>>1573913
>but on the other hand you get a perfect STL without any of the crap triangulation that regular CAD software does.
You can control all of that in the output settings of the CAD software. Resizing, moving, or adding/subtracting features in solid CAD is infinitely faster than trying to make similar tweaks to a mesh.

Unless you're making art objects that don't have dimensional tolerances or fit requirements it's completely nonsensical to use blender or other low-poly modeling software.

And take that from someone who has more than two decades of experience using both.
>>
I have a theory, hear me out.
What if I got one of those ceramic 3D printers, printed molds, and then used those with a cheap injection machine? Could I DIY injection-moulded plastic?
>>1574093
The stock is indeed 16-bit.
In the marlin folders there'll be an Ender 3 config file. That's the stock settings Creality ship it with. If you're still worried you can go into the configuration menu on the printer and just write all the values down on paper.
I recommend getting marlin bugfix 2.0. It says unstable beta but I've been using it for a while now and it runs great.
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>>1574104
Just get a Form 2 and High Temp resin, it's far better detail and basically designed for amateur injection molding
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I kept get a filament feed error in the middle of a print and then it just went away and was fine until the end. No physical problems and my search came up with a guy claiming it was the sd card corrupting the data. How plausible is that?

>>1573317
Kek
>>1573351
Didn't even realize they made a cutting guide, now I feel stupid. I would use my xacto but it would always be a little off.
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>>1574235
Oh, forgot to say it's an anycubic i3 mega.
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>>1573304
All done.
It is amazing how quiet the printer is now, i can actually hear the steppers now when it prints.
I also connected two pairs of wires to the bed thermistor terminal and bed power terminal, since i used external heatbed on the printer so now i will be able to set the printer to know it has a bed attached to it, turn it on or off and know it's temperature, so i don't have to do that shit manually.
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>>1573880
>only -14dB at a very small range of freqs
guess so
still a lot of development to do for real life applications
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>>1572395
2 wire is voltage controlled, ~13-6 Volts
3 wire is rmp feedback
4 wire is on board pwm controll
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>>1572673
Fran from Franlab
>tfw no tits to show off
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>>1573073
You can print bowden cutting guides.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3026517
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mirin those sick overhangs
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Some say that true love only comes once in a lifetime.
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>>1574104
>ceramic 3D printers, printed molds
Nope. Ceramic mold would require a container to keep from shattering from both the injection force and the force of being held by the mold vice. You can use FDM or SLA to produce injection-molds if you use higher temperature materials. Their useful life will simply be much shorter than machined molds. Formlabs High-Temp resin works fine. FDM ABS filament generally works fine.
>cheap injection machine?
The "Cheap" injection machines are $2k. You can build one yourself with heater cartridges, heater controller, chamber, ram, nozzle, vice, and a 12-ton hydraulic press for around $400. But even then you will be limited to 1 cubic inch of mold cavity volume.

Injection-molding is not easy. So unless you have a market demand for a good quantity of tiny parts with fine details they don't tend to be profitable. Custom Lego pieces and fishing lures seem to be the only market I've seen that use benchtop injection-molding equipment.

https://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base/3d-printing-low-run-injection-molds
>>
Its probably a dumb question that's been answered a million times over, but is the CR-10 really worth the extra $400 (for the s-pro model) over the ender 3?
The auto leveling, if it works, sounds like an absolute godsend, but it looks like the only other real difference is the larger build plate.
>>
>>1574235
I don't believe it is plausible. Filament feed signal should not have anything to do with SD card.
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>>1574345
S is worth it if you go for prints that are tall, pro is not worth it since all I've read about it is that the sensor is garbage. Legit the only reason why you would go 10 over the ender is buildspace, so make your choice based on that, then if you go with the 10 go for the S.
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>>1574345
>paying that much for a bowden tube single z screw chinkshit printer
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>>1574104
Why you would ever want to use a ceramic printer for anything other than finished works is beyond me. You're talking about mixing and maintaining the viscosity of a proper slip to extrude with, thick layer lines, extreme shrinkage (some as high as 15%) as it dries (cracks are always fun) and of course needing a kiln to fire anything afterwards, which requires proper venting and safety precautions. And on top of that you've got silica dust to deal with as a health hazard, which over a long career leads to silicosis aka Potter's Rot.

t.ceramics graduate
>>
Not 3dp but what lubricants could i use between silicone parts that wont degrade the silicone over time and wouldnt dry out when enclosed?
>>
I would like to update the ancient marlin in my chink printer to the latest marlin.
Do i only need to copy the values from the configuration.h file from the old marlin to the new marlin?
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Hey lads I am working with a friends printer that can heat up its head to 636F. I need to make a component that is as heat resistant as possible. What are my options? Thanks. I am kind of weary of using nylon.
>>
>>1574622
>I need to make a component that is as heat resistant as possible.
make it out of metal then, they're called thermoplastics for a reason
or be more specific of the application so we can give you a better recommendation than just the hottest printed plastic
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>>1574631
It's a handguard for a rifle. Most "real" handguards will burn away or melt at a certain temperature. I was hoping to use something that could withstand 450F.
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>>1574356
That's what I thought. It didn't make any sense to me. I'm not even sure how to go about troubleshooting this.
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>>1574644
Nylon kitchen tools are usually supposed to be good to 450, so it may not be a problem. But polycarbonate is more heat resistant.
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>>1574705
Thoughts on ultem or PPSF?
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>>1574724
Ultem and PEEK cost about $1k per kilo and you need a very expensive 3D printer to be able to process it. Otherwise yes.
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I made some config changes to my marlin firmware. But i am scared of uploading it. Is it possible to brick arduino by uploading the wrong firmware?
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>>1574803

It's unlikely because the bootloader doesn't get overwritten when you upload a sketch. The more likely problem you're going to have is if you upload it with wrong settings and forget what the original ones were.
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>>1574821
Should be fine then. I have original marlin files from the printer manufacturer so i can just upload the original ones.
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I made this sweet ass simple filament holder for my cramped apartment. No more tripping over spools.
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>>1574833
It actually has two advantages. Apart from storing the spools it also gives me an excuse to not use the pull up bar and watch anime instead.
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thermal runaway is if printer pumps out power but the thermistor value isn't going up right?
what is the tolerance for this? my thermal runaway keeps triggering even though the thermistor works fine
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>>1574838
the tolerance is set in your firmware
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Hey guys, just getting into 3d printing, mainly for purposes related to tabletop gaming and spare parts for machinery here and there.

After some research I'm eyeing the Anycubic i3 mega, any thoughts on it? Anything I should be aware of?
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Going to exchange my Z endstop for an inductive probe, so i can autolevel.
The problem is that the probe works on 12v and arduinos are only 5v, can anyone confirm if this would be the correct way to connect it?

Basically the probe outputs 12V if it doesn't detect anything and 0v if it does (it is reversed probe but that is doesn¨t matter)¨so i designed the divider in the pic to bring the output under 5V
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>>1574952
fuck i meant to draw the blue line to go to the z end stop not the y stop
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>>1574952
You have to watch out with voltage dividers.
There's probably already a pull-up on the pin which skews it.
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>>1574920
get the photon for tabletop stuff, better for figurine details.
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>>1574965
I see, thank you.
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>>1574964
What do you mean? I would imagine the z probe pin is set to INPUT LOW, and the probe either pulls it high or leaves it low
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>>1574988
There's an additional resistor between your voltage divider and the input pin of the MCU that you are ignoring.
>>
Has anyone here tried "Silver PETG"? How similar to aluminium would you say it looks?
>>1574952
I've used those 12V probes on the 5V supply on my old Anet A8 for years, it works just fine. If you're intent on getting something with the correct voltage, get a BLTouch instead.
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>>1574952
just get an optocoupler for few dollars or a fake bltouch since it works better anyway
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>>1575017
i could have ike 20 probes for the price of one bl touch, i tested the probes and they detect fine so i want to try them before throwing out money pointlessly
i tried it on 5v and it worked, but i am afraid that they could misfire from time to time since they are designed for 6v minimum
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>go to pick up some 3D printed guns for action figures I had commissioned to a guy
>ask him about the possibilities of making some pieces to modify other figures
>his face at every single idea
Whitepill me on 3D printing small objects, guys. Apparently, everything below 1 cm can't take any kind of pressure. Should I just use it to make prototypes and then recast them in resin then?
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>>1575036
>everything below 1 cm can't take any kind of pressure
idk what you could mean by this
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>>1575038
Things like being turned around or holding another piece in place.
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>>1575039
like as in a shaft bearing weight?
depending on the layer lines it'll either break or hold just fine
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Can I use the melzi board from my duplicator i3 for a hypercube design. The hypercube is looking appealing except the lack of dual z axes
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>>1574644
>print in PLA
>make a silicone mold
>pull a fiberglass copy

Ez pz
>>
Does the CR-10 have the same thumb screw things for bed leveling like the ender3, or is it a regular screw you have to turn with like an Alan wrench?
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>>1575047
No, as in toys' joints.
I found it weird that he described his materials as being so flimsy that most things would break from being used on joints.
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>>1575184
as in pic related?
yeah i can see it being nigh impossible replicating these with FDM technology, not impossible though, i'm sure it's been done many times already
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>>1575205
The pieces he made were pretty sturdy so it seemed really weird to me that he would say that they would break if they had to be used in joints.
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>>1575209
the strength of 3d printed parts is really directionally dependent due to layer adhesion
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>>1575184
I think this isn't really about load bearing or part strength anon. It's about the difficulty in making a replacement part that fits to an existing toy. When I turn a static model into a snap jointed one in 3d I can take an existing model and cut & paste ready made joints, trim off some material, and tweak and tune until I'm satisfied it will work. I can only do this because 1) I have the geometry right there in front of me mapped in 3D and 2) I can cut and trim and add to the original model without fear because I keep lots of saves and a copy of the original.
Without these, what you're asking becomes a guessing game of printing a part blindly, test fitting at risk of breaking something, fixing what's wrong, and reprinting. Over and over. It will burn through time and waste filament like nothing else, which is why I personally only do that on items with a high rate of return.
So yeah, whatever you paid for the 3d printed guns, add two zeros and give him whatever toy you want modified and some nice calipers and he will get right on that. Otherwise it's not worth the effort. Not by a long shot.
>>
New Thread: >>1575301



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