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Don't Talk To Me Or My Dinosaur Son Ever Again Edition
Old thread: >>1561659

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/7Sb4TVdy

>Need help with prints? Go to:
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Bed & extruder temperature
>Print speed

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 7-1-2019]
Under 200 USD: Creality Ender 3
Under 500 USD: Creality CR-10
Under 1000 USD: Prusa i3 (Mk2 or Mk3)
Over 1000 USD: Lulzbot or Ultimaker
Buyer beware: some chinkshit clones are garbage. Some can be genuinely good, though.
Instead of buying a new printer, you could consider building your own: https://reprap.org/wiki/

>Where can I get free things to print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/
https://grabcad.com/
https://google.com/

>What CAD software should I use?
Solidworks, Inventor, AutoCAD etc. all work, but Blender and Fusion 360 are free:
https://www.blender.org/
https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/
>>
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>>1566323
>>
what happen to deltic prototype guy?
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3DPG discord: https://discord.gg/TtZ7Gba
Post prints, post memes, do stuff
>>
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Reposting because we switched threads right as I posted:
It took me 3 attempts to get all these gravestones printes because of a slightly unlevel bed, and then an apparently smudged FEP film
I need to buy an ender3 so I can do more terrain
>>
>>1566333
reported to Discord admins for bullying and homophobia
>>
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>>1566357
got an ender3x two weeks ago love it so far
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>>1566357
Damn, those are REALLY clean.
>>
I am using octoprint.
What do i do if i have a big ass print running and suddenly realize that the printer is about to hungrily slurp up the last bit of the plastic spaghetti on he spool?
>>
>>1566357
That looks great. I would get a goo printer myself it it wasn't such horrible deadly toxic splooge.
>>
>>1566357
You also need (or at least really should) hollow some of those pieces, the tombstones on the top left and middle could probably use half as much resin if you hollowed them out

>>1566424
Don't listen to the fearmongers, just put a sheet of plastic wrap under the printer and leave it by a window with a fan pointed on it - when you're not using it, stick the box and plastic it came in over it and there's no smell whatsoever.
>>
>start getting some slight adhesion issues with my magnetic Ender 3 bed
>wipe it with acetone because I'd read that that can help
>it turns completely smooth and there's white residue all over
>figure I've completely ruin it
>test a print anyway just in case
>works better than ever
>>
>>1566439
I don't know what the ender 3 bed is made of but just in case you don't know, acetone will melt just about any common plastics
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>>1566439
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>>1566442
Fuck off with your shitty frogs that add nothing to conversations
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>>1566441
Yeah it will melt every single plastic used for 3D it won't work on only 98% of the 3D printer market covered by PLA
>>
>>1566444
I don't know what you're trying to say here but if your printer's made of PLA, I don't think you're going to have a good time
>>
>>1566446
Aceton don't melt no PLA Mr. White.
>>
>>1566441
>acetone will melt just about any common plastics
except the ones I print with: PLA and PETG

REEEEEEEE
>>
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>>1566443
>>
>>1566448
>>1566449
Note how I said "just about" and didn't specify 3D printed materials, you pedants
>>
>>1566454
Your first statement is still bullshit.
>>
>>1566420
You install the filament change plugin before you start printing.
>>
>>1566454
I just like to complain about it.
Acetone is so useful and cheap but I hate printing ABS.
>>
>>1566420
You pause the print, switch filament, then resume.
>>
>>1566454
Nice back pedaling there sonny.
90% of everything 3d printed is from PLA which makes your statement 90% incorrect.
You fucked up and no girl will ever want you now.
>>
>>1566458
If you pause the print the nozzle will burn a hole into your print not to mention you cannot push in the new fillament because the print is blocking the end of the nozzle.
>>
>>1566454
The most used plastics are PP and PE.
Acetone doesn't dissolve them.
>>
>>1566333
no need to report. Discord monitors and bans private chats anyways.
>>
>>1566464
Obviously you pause in the infill.

Really, upgrade your marlin and enable filament change module. It'll move the head to 0,0, retract the filament a bit, wait until you've changed to the new filament. Manually feed the new filament until you start getting extrusion, snip that off, then you press the button, and it'll resume just fine.
>>
>>1566464
>If you pause the print the nozzle will burn a hole into your print
If you pause in the infill you end up with an invisible tumor in the middle of the part. If you pause during a wall/perimeter pass you just get a small zit in the print surface that you can cut or file off.
>you cannot push in the new fillament because the print is blocking the end of the nozzle.
Everything near the nozzle is hot and will get out of the way. I've paused and resumed prints hundreds of times.
>>1566472
Is correct. That plugin makes pausing cleaner and easier, but it's still possible to do. The worse you can due is to not feed the new filament in far enough, which results in underextrusion for part or all of that print layer.
>>
>>1566472
>Really, upgrade your marlin
i am too scared of bricking my disgustingly expensive printer
>>
>>1566420
What I did last week was hang a spanner off of the filament. When the filament was about to run out the spanner dropped and I could run over. Then I just fed a new spool into the extruder while it was still going. Got a smooth colour shift mid-print, which honestly looks pretty cool.
>>
>>1566477
That is a terrible idea if you live on the ISS
>>
>>1566479
I call it the Russian filament sensor. I suppose you do need one of those decadent electric Chinese ones on the space station, but here in the oтчизнa the spanner is fine.

Patent pending.
>>
>>1566482
To make sure you don't forget to change the fillament tie the end of the spool to a pin on a grenade. I guarantee you won't forget to change spools.
>>
>>1566483
You will win Order of Lenin for this, comrade!
>>
A few weeks ago I made myself some of those vibration dampener feet for my ender 3 since they're supposed to help. Turns out they work so well the whole printer would sway violently during fast moves and rip the part off the bed mid print. I thought it was a fluke since the Amazonbasics PLA I used had otherwise lousy bed adhesion anyway. It wasn't until I tried that harpy from the last thread with new filament and lost 26 hours worth of print that I found this out. Currently printing something smaller and tall to make sure it won't happen again.

Lesson learned, vibration dampening feet can be removed from the list of "upgrades" for the ender 3.
>>
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No.
No no.
No no no.
Just hold together, just a little longer.
>>
>>1566527
hot glue the edges
>>
>>1566538
No way anon. My philosophy is "if it doesn't print right on the bed use a different filament". This is 3D Solutech, but I haven't done any playing with the bed or extruder temperature yet. I'm hoping that upping the bed or extruder temp for the first few layers at least will fix this. When I saw it happen I upped the bed temp by 10 degrees and it seems to have kept any further curling at bay, so I might be good.
>>
>>1566527
Man, I don't understand how you people can have so much trouble with "bed adhesion".
>>
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I've heard good things about using 0.8mm nozzles, and I'll admit it can cut a nice chunk out of print time, but this looks like shit compared to what I was printing before.
>>
>>1566527
Clean your bed with isopropyl, bed at 60, use a 5 width skirt that barely touches the part
>>
>>1566547
They're using solutions that just barely hold (as I discovered with gluestick) so that they release easily once printed. The stock surface holds too well, but I'll take that problem over warps destroying a print.
>>
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Keeping the bed heated through the entire print helped
Also is this discoloration normal where it adheres to the bed or do I just have shit pla
>>
If you have adhesion problems and don't use a glue stick then please don't even post. A single stick lasts hundreds of prints and costs less than a dollar.
>>
Is there any noticeable benefit to using carbon fiber arms on a delta as opposed to something more mundane like pvc?
I get that the goal is stiffness with low weight but wouldn't the joints matter more than the arms?
>>
>>1566611
Discoloration isn't normal, does it change depending on the viewing angle? If so, that's just a property of the plastic. If not, then you've got crap plastic, part of your print bed or adhesive is sticking to the print, or you're bending it beyond what you should.
>>
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>>1566611
wtf is this
>>
>"hurr durr you need a hardened steel nozzle to print wood and metal filaments"
>check stats, a hardened steel nozzle lasts about six times as long as a brass nozzle
Okay, looks fair enough, let's go on ebay
>check ebay
>you can get twenty brass nozzles for the price of a single hardened steel one
Yeah, superb advice guys, thanks for that.
>>
>>1566670
It gets better! Steel transfers heat poorly, so you need to either raise your extruder temperature a lot, or lower your speed a lot, and if you print slower for stuff like surface layers or outer shells for the aesthetic, fun surprise, that filament will be printed ten or maybe even fifteen degrees hotter.
Brass nozzles are the best for a reason. Treat them as disposable, because they are.
>>
>>1566671
what's a good sign on when to replace a brass nozzle? I've never replaced mine and my printer is like two years old
>>
>>1566543
well the true issue is that your room is too cold, that's why it's curling up - in the direction of the coldness. make an enclosure if anything.
>>
To anons with the Photon printer,
What is the use for FEP? Do I need to replace it every use?
How long does a 500ml resin bottle lasts?
Also should I buy the "kit" on aliexpress that comes with 1 L resin and 5 pcs of FEP sheets? is it worth the money?
Something like this:
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/ANYCUBIC-3D-Printer-Photon-with-500mL-1L-Resin-SLA-Ultimate-Slice-Speed-UV-LED-Light/4431107_32958986154.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.13.51ad1141qewvj5
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>>1566695
FEP is the film that protects the LCD screen and keeps your liquid in the vat. You don't need to replace it unless you scratch it or it gets cloudy (it's not hard to keep it in good shape)
500mL is roughly twice of pic related, supposedly (I didn't take a picture of all the stuff I made with mine)
>kit
IDK, that kit comes out to over $460 with chinese shipping/CS and a 2-week ship time, vs. Amazon's 2-day and all of the policies that Amazon has, but without the additional resin. Your call.
>>
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>>1566429
>leave a printer with a vat full of UV-curing resin next to a window
>>
>>1566722
Or, you could stick it next to your bed and breathe in all those fumes while you print. Probably caused the brain damage which makes you use anime pictures, as well.

If you have any better methods of ventilation that don't involve an elaborate filter/duct setup or just sticking it under the stove and turning on the exhaust, I'm all ears.
>>
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>>1566724
Stick it somewhere away from the window and then point the fan at it. Put it in a spare room or basement. Put it in the bathroom with the fan on. Put the box over it. Throw it in a closet somewhere.

Most of my reaction pictures aren't anime so I had to really look to find another one
>>
>>1566659
It would lead to noticeably more ghosting and related problems. The forumla for how much a rod bends is proportional for small bends to 1/(Young's Modul). Carbon fiber got a Youngs Modul of about 180, PVC got 1-4 depending on the mixture, so for every bend a carbon fiber tube has, the PVC one has about 40-180 more.
>>
>>1566659
SeeMeCNC uses injection molded plastic arms for their deltas with their own custom joints.
They're supposedly good.
>>
>>1566659
Carbon fiber is lighter, and yes, every ounce matters.

I broke one of the really, really expensive carbon fibre rods on our delta (because the damn thing is retarded), and I splinted it using regular 5/16ths PVC electrical pipe though, and a couple of zipties. Works fine.
>>
>>1566729
My printer is by the window in the room i sleep and game anyways since i have nowhere else to put it and although its winter and i never raise the curtain which still lets a lot of light through I have no problem with my resin so far.

Anycubic Photon with orange windows BTW.
I suppose it blocks uv sufficiently.

Although the resin smell and isopropyl vapors font really bother me significantly.

Also handled unfinished parts without gloves a lot.
The worst i got was some skin irritation on my back that went away next day.
Not 100% sure if resin caused that.
>>
>>1566673
>what's a good sign on when to replace a brass nozzle?
Print quality declines and doesn't immediately improve after you've cleaned the nozzle with heat or solvents. Because I am printing CONSTANTLY and my printers level with electrical contact on the nozzle I switched all of mine to nickel-plated brass because they don't tarnish, so it's much easier to see if the nozzle is actually clean.
>>
>>1566819
>Also handled unfinished parts without gloves a lot.
Stop doing that you ponce. Gloves are not expensive.
>Not 100% sure if resin caused that.
Yes, it's listed as a symptom in the MSDS for the resin.
>>
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Zero suit samus, will update when I've removed the supports
>>
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>tfw you finally figure out how to print ABS without an enclosure, even when you know PETG is the superior choice
>>
Opinions on the zesty nimble?
The idea of a direct drive extruder that's as light as a bowden really shoots my scooter but the price is putting me off.
>>
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>>1566863
going to need sauce on that model
>>
>>1566873
Pretty sceptical from looking at it. That flexible drive rod is propably way too stiff and the forces will interfere with the printhead.
And yeah, price is massive as the stepper isn't even included.
>>
>>1566873
>>1566884
there's also the flex3drive
>>
>>1566884
Plenty of ways to prevent undue force. Gimbaling the stepper is most popular.
>>
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Rate my mini Christmas tree. 40*35*85mm, should be able to print this in 2 hours with ABS and high infill.
>>
Does ABS attract moisture like PLA does? Do I need to dry it in an oven before printing?
>>
>>1566927
Yes. I also noticed that ABS with glittering particles f.e. the one with a silver or golden look tend to absorb moisture faster than regular ABS.
>>
I've had some PLA and PETG sitting out for a couple months. I just ordered some desiccant, can I just leave the rolls in a sealed box with desiccant and remove any moisture absorbed? Or does something else change with exposure
>>
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>>1566933
Just get one of those fruit drying devices.
They are very cheap, have a timer, reach 70°C, fit perfect for spools and consume less electricity while vented better than your normal oven.
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>>1566912
>40*35*85mm
what is that a plug for ants ??
>>
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>>1566882
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1059556

There you go fren
>>
>>1566947
It's a Chrismas tree, I don't know what you're talking about.

And it's for my gf so let's start small.
>>
>>1566927
ABS absorbs moisture much more readily than PLA but not as bad as nylon. I keep my roll of ABS in my enclosed printer and I only have trouble with moisture at the very end of the roll, 3 months after I put it in there.
>>
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>>1566949
>visible polygons

I realize that's not your fault though, nice print otherwise. Especially the hair strands.
>>
>>1566993
>visible polygons
Not that guy, but I actually like visible polygons on 3D prints, makes for a nice aesthetic, especially when combined with big layer heights.
>>
>>1566993
Yes, and
>>
>>1566819
You can buy a box of 50 nitrile gloves at harbor freight for a few dollars my man, what the fuck
>>
>>1566950
Make mold for silicon after the print.
Printed christmas trees are unusable directly.
And make a bigger one already
>>
>>1567019
Not even for single use, at 100% concentric infill, after being smoothed down with acetone?

Once my printer is done printing it's current task I'll print at both 100 and 150% scale. Maybe even 200 if she's feeling brave - should be enough to warm her up for a real tree.
>>
>>1567024
>Not even for single use, at 100% concentric infill, after being smoothed down with acetone?
Not even then. You don't seem to have much experience with christmas trees.
Srlsly not an option.

>100% infill
Wtf, don't do that. It'l take forever, waste material and you'll have warping issues.

>if she's feeling brave
Try it yourself first before shoving something printed into somebody else. You'll see.
>>
>>1567031
>You don't seem to have much experience with christmas trees.
I don't, because I'm not the one who want to try them. What could possibly go wrong? Breaking the stand? Needles everywhere? Can't be worse than steel, really.

It takes 2 hours 25 minutes at 100% infill and I've done bigger prints on my machine in ABS without warping at all. Main issue with warping is length/width, and this thing is relatively small in those two dimensions.
>>
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Working on some league models. Had them resin printed by a buddy to check for detail. Came out super good aside from some support issues. Elegoo green in a photon.
>>
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>>1566950
>for my gf
see wat you did here, pretty soon your build volume won't be enough
>>
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>>1566949
that look delicious thx mate !
>>
https://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/5308000010/0046/253.html
My printer just paid for two rolls of filament replacing a single broken part on a refrigerator. Good job, printer.
>>
>>1567033
Imagine your print delaminating at the stem and your Christmas tree's base falling off mid-use
Also tons of bacteria in the print lines

Best you can do is print hollow and do a slush coat of fiberglass and epoxy inside for strength, then also a coat of epoxy on the outside for smoothness

Don't use the raw print, just don't.
>>
How is that anon going to decorate a christmas tree like that anyway? I don't see anywhere to hang ornaments or lighting.
>>
>>1566866
>when you know PETG is the superior choice

But it's not.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aODcbK5r5wE

PETG becomes brittle on impact and creeps with constant load.
>>
>>1566601
I was at microcenter looking at their 3d printers, I have a ender 3, well this guy comes up to me and starts talking to me, and he was really knowledgeable, he told me to use hairspray since it sticks better than glue. I heard on 4chin about hair spray and thought it was a meme.
>>
>>1566819
>>1566841
>>1566999
Not that guy, but I don't use gloves because I just flat-out don't need to - platform drips for half an hour, I take it off and hold it over a vat with isopropyl, use the included tool to detach it, re-attach build plate; fish out part (x minutes) later with scraper, lay on paper towel, air dry. No resin contact, no drips, no mess.
>>
>>1567116
>delamination
If you have proper settings for ABS that shouldn't be a problem
>>
>>1567218
I use that elmers disappearing purple glue stick. Hair spray gets everywhere unless you apply it outside of some shit. Only time I ever had a bed adhesion issue was when I ran out of gluestick one night and tried to get away with the layer from the previous print.
>>
BLTouch installed and working just fine! I had to tinker with the offset in the settings but after only the second try I got perfect adhesion and my test cube came out alright.

I was worried about installing a new firmware, but it was much easier than I'd thought.
>>
>>1567248
I used that same glue, I liked when I got the glue wet from the water it turned purple again.
>>
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What can I do to increase the clarity of translucent filaments? I know increasing layer height helps, but if I want to keep fine details, that's not an option. Pic related isn't mine.
>>
>>1567269
For me the biggest factor in each individual lines transparency is heat. I have transparent PETG that prints very clearly at 230, but comes out nearly white below 225 and above 235. Best layer adhesion seems to be at 235, unfortunately, but I've made a bunch of those "automatic plant watering bulbs" in vase mode that came out very strong and clear.
>>
>>1567218
>>1567248
The glue stick is the greatest tool in my arsenal, I print exclusively in ABS. With an enclosure, my bed leveled and at 95 C, and a layer of glue stick, I have zero lifting/warping even on the biggest footprint prints with just a small brim.
>>
Hey, so I don't frequent /3dpg/, or /diy/ for that matter, more /k/ than anything else.

I had an idea after finding out my school library does prints for cheap. I think that the front sight of my Glawk is a bit off of center, but I can't say I'm certain. I was thinking, if I were to design and print a tool to align the sight, would it be able to withstand the forces it would go under while I tighten the sight? I have no idea how strong 3D printing materials are.
>>
>>1567083
Which is exactly why I bought a Chiron.

>>1567116
I'm using ABS at the top end of what the manufacturer recommends for temperature. My layer adhesion is perfect up to 250mm height, I haven't done any prints higher yet.
They advertise stiff stuff as having a tensile strength of 6.5MPa, or N/mm2. The stem is 15mm at it's thinnest point, meaning it has a surface area of 176mm2. That results in a maximum load of about 1150N on the stem alone, that's enough to lift a full grown human. I could hang her by the Christmas tree and it shouldn't break.
I'll smooth the outside with sandpaper and acetone, and use it once. After that it's on to making molds for bigger ones.
>>
>>1567218
I print using PET only and hairspray is a godsend for this stuff. Perfect first latest adhesion on glass every single time, and then when the build-up are cools down it doesn't stick like a motherfucker.
Haven't gotten as much experience with hairspray and ABS, but I just finished printing a phone holder with 220*30mm footprint (so very prone to warping lengthwise) and it stuck perfectly without warping using hairspray.

Just use what you find to work.

>>1567269
>>1567272
Sand it down. Every single line breaks the light, and thus transparency. What you want is perfect layer adhesion (so fix your temperatures), then big layers (so you have less lines between layers), and then you just print it and sand it down using fine grit sandpaper.
>>
>>1567320
>Sand it down. Every single line breaks the light
>and sand it down using fine grit sandpaper.
Not him but that never works for me.
I got fine 0000 steel wool but it makes transparent shit more diffuse instead of clear.
>>
What is the thinnest wall that is safe to print in PLA? Need to keep weight low on a semicircular shaped object.
>>
>>1567329
Define safe? You can print a wall as thin as your nozzle, but it wont be the strongest. Thinnest Ive gone on walls that actually need some integrity was 0.8mm.
>>
>>1567331
Woops.
>>1567332
>>
>>1567329
That's because 0000 steel wool is roughly equivalent to 400 grit sandpaper. That's even too rough to start out with, you want to get into the 1000 range ASAP, with 2000 probably being fine for the final pass.
I once measured the top of a print done with a 0.4mm nozzle, the surface finish came out to 16-20micron iirc. That's about equivalent to a 320 grit sandpaper, so no wonder you'll never improve the surface finish of a print if you're sanding it with something so very similar in surface roughness.

>>1567331
Post object. You can get away with a single outer perimeter, but if you want to reduce weight it's much more effective to reduce infill. My rule of thumb is 1mm of wall on every side because it's much harder to see infill that way, and then reduce infill to 15-20%. You could reduce wall thickness even further, but it's going to significantly weaken your part. If you have a 0.4mm nozzle, I'd go with 0.8mm (two outlines).
>>
>>1567332
Thinnest wall that is printable and won't snap when you touch it I guess.
>>
>>1567335
Single outline then.
>>
>>1567334
Ok Thanks.
>>
>>1567335
Kinda depends on how well dialed in your printer is I guess. My vase mode prints are fairly strong but its not like they can support a massive amount of weight. Id say 0.8mm if the walls are going to be bearing some sort of weight or receive some sort of impact.
>>
>>1567335
Just post the part.
>>
>>1567342
I haven't drawn it yet.
>>
>>1567343
What does it need to do?
>>
>>1567344
it's an air intake basically.
>>
>>1567346
Air intake for a computer fan? 0.4mm. Air intake for a car? 2mm. Be a bit more specific.
>>
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>>1567347
Ahhhh I'm the fan anon, it's an intake for that 40cm wide fan I printed. The outer edge will have a semicircular lip. It doesn't have to be rigid because it will bolt onto one of pic related (I printed a giant version) but it can't be too flimsy because it's in an area with fast moving air.
>>
>tfw just started a print at my printer at home while sitting at work and now i'm looking at it through a camera

octoprint is comfy as fuck
>>
>>1567352
0.8mm then.
>>
>>1567358
Get the fuck back to work.
>>
>>1567361
no need to rush, i am paid by the hour
>>
>>1567358
>at work
>check octoprint
>wife is printing a black dildo
>>
>>1567363
That is nothing.
I once got a call from my ISP that there is SSH bruteforce going out from my IP, so i checked all computers at home for malware and nothing..
then i checked the packet logs in my router and it turns out, it was coming from my raspberry pi server with octoprint.
I still have no idea chinks managed to hack it, when it was hidden behind nat with no redirects.
I just reformatted it and wasn't too broken about it, since it has no personal data on it, just files to print.
But then i realized... i have a camera attached to it aimed at my printer.... and my bed is directly behind my printer...

So yeah... some chink is now probably jacking his 0.1inch penor to a video of me pounding my gf
>>
>>1567329
>>1567340
Sandpapers go up to 15,000 (or more, possibly) so you're still pretty low on the scale of polishing. 1-2000 grit is where you'll start to notice a reasonably smooth surface, 6000 is getting to be a glassy surface on some materials
>>
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>>1567365
LMAO
>>
>>1567365
>putting a live IP cam of the own bedroom online without thinking for a second
>posting on an online imageboard and rant about the chinese for some reason afterwards
>>
>>1567373
It's not an ip cam, it is attached to the raspberry, and it is not online, but hidden behind a router, so no way to access it without sshing inside
I kind of blame my gf, she probably installed some shady app or some shit which gave chinks access to my lan
>>
>>1567365
>>1567373
Doesn't matter anyway. Attacks like this are large-scale and automated - checking random targets for a few vulnerabilities - exploit it - add it to your botnet - which then in turns tries to find other vulnerable targets.

No one devotes extra time to hack into some random Pi server and watches the webcam feed.
>>
>>1567382
>No one devotes extra time to hack into some random Pi server and watches the webcam feed.
I personally spend many hours of my life watching hacked webcam live feeds so reality isn't as vanilla as your claim.
>>
>>1567365

Why don't you set up a VPN on your router? I got OpenVPN running on mine and nothing on the local network needs to use NAT or respond to anything outside it.
>>
>>1567392
Unprotected IP Cam live feeds that can be googled.
Not servers that you have brute forcing SSH logins.
>>
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Other fan anon reporting. I stated I'd saved money buy printing a $40 plastic fan for my refrigerator, but as always with 3d printing things never go right the first time. The first model:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2794608
Wouldn't print completely because the fan blades are too thin. Cura couldn't really fix this.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2187837
These work a lot better, but I realized that PLA is pretty stiff and compression fitting it to a 1/8" shaft is damn near impossible. So now I'm figuring out how to fit one all snug-like on a shaft.
On the bright side, 0.8mm nozzles do wonderful things for overhang angles, I can print these things with zero supports.
>>
>>1567471
They charge $40 for those? Try printing the hole too small then drilling it wider with a 1/8" bit
>>
>>1567478
See
>>1567115
$48, not including shipping direct from the source.
I'm going to spend a little more time trying for a fitting that can flex just enough to cover printing imperfections to fit the shaft tightly. If I can pull it off I'll try to duplicate the result in .scad and post it . That one anon gets painfully butthurt by OpenSCAD's existence and that makes me happy.
>>
>>1567482
>OpenSCAD
No idea how people use that, looks complicated as hell.
>>
>>1567483
it's the easiest CAD program to get into if you're already familiar with programming
>>
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>>1567483
When you download a .scad to modify 90% of the work is done for you. In my case I changed the # of blades & their thickness, their angle to make printing easier, fan diameter, and shaft size.

For the fit to the shaft I turned to Wings3D, my bread & butter for this kind of thing. Instead of a shaft I used a partial shaft connected to the main body by a few thinner supports. The empty space in there gives it just enough flex to fit securely. Pic related, the version that's in the fridge working right now.
>>
>>1567315
Depends entirely on the material used and the orientation its printed, as long as the layer lines are perpendicular to the stress PLA should do fine which is most likely what your library uses
>>
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What causes warping like this on a resin printer? Is it an unlevel bed?
I was in a rush to get it out to my friend but the print before this had the same issue, but way smaller and it was only the support raft that was messed up
>>
>>1567484
Isn't it really abstract though? Like you'd have to know in your head what command or whatever corresponded to a particular shape and there are unlimited possibilities of shapes.
>>
>>1567491
Mostly you combine primitive objects to make your part.
It's as abstract as building something from Lego bricks.
>>
>>1567306
I personally didnt have a bad experience with glue sticks, im a jew (not really im german descent) and the value of vair spray (2.00 USD) last longer than 1.88 double pack glue stick from walmart.

I am curious what your procedure is with your glue stick to get maximum hold?

I usually put some on, heat the bed to 200C for about 5 minutes and apply one more right before printing.
>>
>>1566724
Why do you care so little about your long term health?
Do you have any idea how miserable will you be when you are in constant crippling pain in 15 years?
Are some plastic goblin waifus which you can buy from chinks for cents really worth it?
>>
>>1566949
Did you just use automatic support generation in simplify 3d or did you place them manually? Also what support pilar size?
>>
>>1566939
pla doesn't even absorb moisture f4m
petg straight out laughs at moisture, you can literally fish a 1000 years old petg spool from the bottom of the mariana trench and it will print just fine
>>
>>1567511
petg absorbs water easily
>>
>>1567512
i live near sea and i have been using the same petg spool for years because i use it so little and i just have it on my shelf and i had zero problems with moisture
>>
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What do /3dpg/ think of this? I was going to get the Fysetc F6, but then some other chink companies started putting out boards that are TMC-ready, but 32 bit running smoothieware
>>
>>1567514
I use the MKS Sbase which is also a chink 32-bit board that runs Smoothieware. I'm pretty happy with it but I'm using the embedded DRV8825 drivers on it.
You can connect external TMC drivers but I have no reason to bother with it - the current ones are completely fine.

But Smoothieware-based boards only have very limited networking:
the web interface is very basic and uploading gcode is quite slow.
>>
>>1567513
It depends on the filament. Different formulas have different effects, for instance one formula might be harder to print, but creates much stronger things when tuned right. How sensitive the filament is to moisture is one of the stats that changes per the formula it was made from. I've been printing "Prima Easyprint" just fine, the printer is in my sitting room next to an aquarium so clearly at least this formula isn't particularly moisture sensitive, but I had a spool of PLA before that needed toi be run through the hot air mode on my oven every now and then, or it would puff steam out of the nozzle and ruin prints.
>>
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>>1567504
>im a jew
>not really im german descent
Aufgepasst! Judaism is a religion, not a race you Untermensch.
>>
>>1567504
Almost all American Jews are of "German" descent.
Yiddish is a German dialect.
>>
>>1567528
>>1567530
I was trying to make a joke about jews and their money.
>>
>>1567490
Looks like poor bed adhesion. It's warped around the base, where the layers lifted the most, then it evens out with the later layers. I don't know much about resin printers, but I'd say maybe you aren't cleaning your printbed right?
>>
>>1567535
That's a hate crime, Hans.
>>
>>1567538
go shove a 3d printed spikey dildo with no infill up your ass, k?
>>
>>1567542
Eat shit - no wait, you guys actually enjoy that.
>>
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>>1567543
>>
>>1567504
>>1567535
Why are there Nazis on /3DPG/?
>>
>>1567549
Everyone posts in /pol/
>>
>>1567563
/pol/ is a board of peace.
>>
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>>1567569
>fan on top of extruder
>stepper damper on the wrong side

WTF are you doing?
>>
>>1567569
thats cool mod and all but has anyone even had a problem with feeding PLA into the aluminum feeder?
>>
>>1567572

Oh man i i just noticed it, anon is trolling us
>>
For all of you who think the octopi camera is pointless, think again. I was once one of you, but now I have seen the light. I've been making parts for a DIY electric skateboard, and when I print PETG I have to go very slowly or the quality goes to shit. That means 16 hours and longer prints. With my octopi I can simply start the print job before heading off to work, then check in regularly on the webcam feed to make sure the print is going well. If the print has failed, I can stop wasting filament and just cancel it right away.
Also, if I print many smaller things, for instance D&D minis in PLA, I can use the slicer to place whatever I might need on the board and start a print job, then when it's done and the bed has cooled I can simply knock everything off by bumping into it with the jog controls, and start a new batch remotely. I actually earn a bit of money doing this for minis and Warhammer stuff, ever since I showed them thingiverse and said I'd print models they found on there if they gave me a bit of money in return. I don't think any of them realise what filament is worth, because I'm getting shit like ten dollars for two minis, apparently being able to use a mini with the right gender and weapon and whatever is worth that much to D&D players.

Whenever I've played I've just used a little cthulhu figure for my character regardless of what it was, but children these days are so picky.
>>
>>1567601
stop watching your printer and shitposting and get back to work, Jeff.
>>
>>1567608
Get off my back, Steve. If you want to complain then do it to the supervisor. Then I'll just mention what's in your "csv 2016 backup" folder.
>>
File deleted.
>>1567504
>your procedure is with your glue stick to get maximum hold

Apply a layer of glue stick to bed before or after bed has started heating
Print

I don't do anything special, as long as a fresh layer of glue stick gets put on at literally any point (hours or minutes or seconds) before printing, I get perfect adhesion with my ABS.
>>
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>>1567616
Whoops, didn't mean to post a 3.6 mb jpeg
>>
>>1567616
I personally recommend buildtak. You can get Chinese copy stickers in five packs quite cheaply, and each sticker is going to last you at least a dozen prints. Just print until it seems to be going bad, then clean it off with isopropyl, if that doesn't help rub it down with acetone, if that doesn't help peel it off and slap on a new one. I bought a five pack last february and have been printing quite a lot, and so far I've only used two of them, though the one I'm using right now is on its last legs.
>>
>>1567624
You can also get a roll of Kapton, lasts forever, gives you a nice smooth finish, and great hold.
Trickier to apply, though.
>>
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Ok guys it seems like I need some help here. I was reading on quality troubleshooting, and I swear to god it doesn't seem to help at all.

>pic related
What the fuck is this excessive stringing? I have never seen so much stringing since I first started. I did enable retraction, and I also put these foam pads that is packed with my graphics card, underneath the printer.. It seemed to help but holy shit

>pic related

>creality ender 3
>tool temp: 200C
>bed temp: 60C
>hatchbox pla 1.75mm
>>
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>>1567489
Okay, so I've made this crude drawing. It somewhat relies on your familiarity with a handgun slide, but should be easy enough to follow otherwise.
I checked, and they do use PLA.
If I understand what you're saying, I should have the stress from the torque normal to the print layers?
>>
>>1567650
You probably turned retraction off by accident, I think there is also more than one retraction setting. What's your retraction distance? I use 6mm. Also since it's concentric circles the only time there should be stringing is travels between layer change, so there might be a setting to optimize travels to minimize the distance. Generic advice is increase retraction distance, increase print speed and look for travel and path optimization settings.
>>
>>1567510
Used the standard cura supports and let it do it's thing. Turned out pretty well to say I didn't have to touch it.
>>
>>1567650
You probably have retraction turned off for interior travels or you have a really high minimum retraction distance
>>
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>>1567489
>>1567664
Here's another image just to make sure. The sight will be twisted and both ends will push in opposite directions, modeled by the red arrows, with the print layers being the lines, with C having the layers stacked on the display plain.
Just to make sure I understand, I should print it so that the forces are applied as seen in B?
>>
>>1567667
retraction speed?
increasing it can help
>>
>>1567671
It probably won't end up being an issue at all, it I personally would go with A
If you print B then you run the risk of pushing the layers apart, but with the proper print settings they should be tight enough it wont be a problem and you can vapor smooth it for added strength
>>
>>1567650
How high is your retraction length and speed? My ender setup is around 4.5mm retract length at 80 speed, no problem with stringing unless it's absolutely too hot for the filament
>>
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>>1567667
>>1567669

I am using ultimaker cura, This is the only retraction setting I messed with.

I also just realized, I am using octo print on my ender 3, Maybe thats why its not working? or does retraction settings get stored in .gcode?
>>
>>1567690
25 mm/s is way too slow
you should at least double it
>>
>>1567685
Right. My intuition wanted to go for A or C, but >>1567489 suggests "perpendicular to the layer lines," which would be B.
Also, it's PLA. I'm not sure I want to go through the trouble of vapor smoothing it.
>>
>>1567692
I am trying 50mm/s and post results in a hour.
>>
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>>1567601
Funny you should mention that.
>Making fan blades
>need a nice final one
>low speed, thin layers
>0:40 print is now 2:40
>start print
>make sure first layer is fine
>go to work
>come back to this
What the fuck.
>>
>>1567705
Thin layers don't combine well with overhangs.
Either turn on Curas tree supports (under experimental, but they're great) or print with a higher layer height and get yourself some sandpaper to smoothen them.
>>
>>1567176
That video doesn't prove anything. Some dickhead smashing shit on a bench is hardly proof of any properties of the materials.
>>
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I was staring at a hole in the wall next to my desk for 3 years now. I put a little alien inside it and now its cool.
>>
>>1567728
The guy is a moron, but he isn't wrong. In a bending or torsion test, PLA and ABS both keep their shapes pretty well. PETG does deform. If you print a 100x20x2mm bar from the plastics, clamp it to a table at the base, and pile weight at the end, you'll see PLA slightly bend before it breaks entirely, PETG slowly bend, and ABS slowly bend. When you remove the weight, the PLA stays broken but the pieces remain straight, the PETG stays bent, and the ABS mostly returns to its old shape. Similarly, if you screw two pieces of plastic together, the PETG will eventually loosen up, which is why I never tread screws directly into plastic, instead making slots to put bolts into instead.

If I were making mechanical parts and was looking only at the end result, I would rate them ABS > PETG > PLA, but from ease of printing I would instead go PLA = PETG > ABS. This is why PETG is my favourite plastic, it's as easy to print as PLA but nearly as strong as ABS.

On the other hand, for things like pulling strength PETG is far better than both PLA and ABS. If you were to print, say, a (latching) carabiner (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2565902), you'd find that while the print deforms around the short ends, it can hold much more weight than the same thing printed from ABS or PLA.
>>
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>>1567692
Thanks for help anon, the far right is the print after bumping to 50mm/s
>>
>>1567705
>>1567713
Looks like the print came lose off the bed in the beginning.
The center core doesn't have any overhangs and it's all over the place.
Alternatively the mechanics of the printer are completely lose
>>
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>>1567760
Things were bad on close inspection. There was painters tape scraps on the 2020 extrusions and the rollers were hitting them like potholes on a highway. The bed frame was not set properly. The X axis was loose. In spite of that some prints came out great. The meme printer can be very fault tolerant. With those problems fixed things are looking better, but Cura shit the bed on the shaft mount.

You'll also noticed I ditched the glass bed. The stock one just works better with this filament.
>>
>>1567772
I find that the stock bed is very good in general. When I see people advicing glass on the Ender it's because their stock bed is bent, if that's not your problem why are you using glass?
>>
>>1567774
Not the anon you replied to, but I started using glass bed 2nd day of owning ender 3, I still have stock mat just in cause.
>>
>>1567352
Is that a render?
>>
>>1566323
Why aren't people using water cooling instead of dicking around with huge fans on the hot end?
>>
Any opinions on the Anycubic i3 Mega? Worth buying or chinkshit garbage?
>>
>>1567795
Because the fans are for cooling the print, not the hot end you dope.
>>
>>1567795
Because water cooling is inefficient.
>>
>>1567774
My bed is bent anon, but at the same time the stock bed warps when heated. It's a very strange geometric phenomena I've got going.
>Stock bed bows up about 0.1mm
>Glass bed sinks down about 0.1mm
So damned if I do, damned if I don't. I print a fairly thick first layer to compensate and it works well.
>>
>>1567830
Mine does the same, but it shrinks evenly. What you should do is heat the nozzle and bed, and do the leveling then. Perfect first layers every time, even at 0.05 layer height.

Though I got a BLTouch. Easier to just write a G code segment to heat everything up, then have it automatically level the bed, then start printing. It's tuned so well I don't even bother with watching the first layer any more.
>>
>>1567836
Leveling a heated bed is printing 101 anon. Leveling a cold bed is just asking for trouble. The BLtouch looks nice but I've been seeing new methods that use the nozzle touching the bed to set the z endstop and I'd sooner do that if I'm spending the money.
>>
>>1567808
Why not just submerge the build plate in mineral oil and hooking the sump up to a heat sink in your freezer?
>>
>>1567490
Poor bed adhesion. Post a picture of the next print that comes out like that before you take it off the print bed
>>
>>1567737
I've never tried sanding PETG but ABS is way easier to sand and finish than PLA, the extra setup effort is worth it if it reduces sanding time by any amount

Fuck sanding
>>
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Why am I getting these squiggles when slicing? Infill and bottom/top layers is set to concentric.
>>
>>1567737
I have an ender 3 that prints pla without problems. But as soon as I print PETG I get terrible bridging and overhangs. Any hints how i can get rid of this? I tried setting the print speed as low as 25 mm/sec. Maybe my part cooling is insufficient? I don't know.
>>
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>>1567795
>Why aren't people using water cooling
They are, you just don't have the budget for that.

>>1568136
>bad bridging
Have you tried reading the OP?
>https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/
Also
>https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19643-bridging
>>
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>>1567993
It didn't come out as bad this time, I cleaned and leveled the bed, and cleaned the vat as well
Although the model in the middle failed completely
>>
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>>1567993
>>1568189
>>
>>1567795
You're gonna carry that weight.
>>
Anyone get any of the newer dragonlock models?
They print out pretty well without supports. Surprisingly, I can't find them anywhere yet.
>>
>>1567740
you might also want to check the combing setting in cura, I solved all my inner stringing problems after setting it to 'infill only'
>>
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>>1568211
Is the newest kickstarter even over yet?
I'm not a huge fan of his models myself, the dragons and other big monsters are fine but all of the smaller stuff just looks like cartoony to me
>>
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>>1566949
this is probably gonna end up in a disaster
>>
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>>1568237
breddy gud actually for a .4 nozzler, it even got the fingers
>>
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>>1568273
support came off easily, few little pla spikes in places, but easy to clean up
i will have to make a pedestal tho for her to stand on
>>
>>1568280
anyone else ever wrap these little gals in a condom and shove them into their ars for the day? my boss once asked if i had a gooch rash because i was wiggling in my chair so much. heh heh if only he knew my little secret ;)
>>
>>1568306
can't say that i have. plastic is very rough and sharp, so it would hurt too much
i do it all the time with my hamster tho
>>
>>1568280
Pretty good anon. Would look a bit better of it was scaled up more
>>
>>1566333
Fuck off with that discord pedo botnet
>>
>>1566420
You send the change filament command (m600 I think)
>>
>>1568324
It it at almost maximum already, it is 13cm tall and my maximum volume is 15cm
>>
>>1568328
how long will the printer wait tho?
say you know you have only 10 hours of filament left but you go away on vacation for the weekend so you set the gcode to send m600 after ten hours, and then come back to change filament only after two days from that?
>>
>>1568333
It lifts head, moves to the edge of the bed, then unloads filament and waits for you to change before resuming
>>
>>1568334
will it keep melting the nozzle for two days tho?
can you even resume print after that long?
>>
>>1568335
Yes
Octoprint handles it
Try it out for yourself
You can also make your own command and set it to the pause button. Learn gcode
>>
>>1566866
>>1567728
>>1567737
All the different types of thermo plasts around have different properties in a lot of ways.
The term "Strengh" can mean a lot of things.

PLA is stiff and brittle, meaning it doesn't bend a lot before snapping.
PETG is a lot more flexible over all but difficult to sand.
For me, ABS is something in between the two.

PETG became a sexy alternative to ABS because it'a easier to print and doesn't smell.

And every plastic tends to "smear" more or less when you apply constant strong force over time.
This is the reason why it's forbidden to use plastic screw anchors for ceiling constructions in industrial buildings in Germany.
>>
>>1568136
To improve bridging/overhang performance:
-increase speed
-lower the flow/extrusion rate
-lower the temperature

An yes PLA overhangs are printed easier than PETG overhangs.
>>
if i fuck up and send the nozzle crashing into the bed, can that damage the motors?
>>
>>1568414
The steppers tend to be the last thing to break.
>>
>>1568414
Steppers usually skip and not break. You'll hear something like a jackhammer noise when they skip
>>
>>1568414
No but you will damage your nozzle and the bed as well
If you are using glass it will crack it
The steppers are strong enough to rip your finger off
>>
Alright I fucked up and plugged in a new set of stepper drivers without checking what pins go where and released the magic smoke.
Initially if I unplugged all drivers I could still turn the printer on but now it won't regardless of what's plugged in.
Is it safe to say both the board and the drivers are fucked?
>>
>>1568550
Check if there's a fuse blown somewhere or identify what component had a thermal event.
>>
>>1568219
>you might also want to check the combing setting in cura, I solved all my inner stringing problems after setting it to 'infill only'

Wow anon thank you for that info, I did a print, and it came out perfect, not stringing, the walls came out a lot smoother, little uneven at times, but this is progress for sure.

Is combing a universal setting I can keep at infill only or do I have to adjust it based on the print?
>>
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>check Cura's reported filament length consumed for this print
>measure length left on the spool

3cm over should be good
>>
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How hot do the heatsinks really get (assuming ~200C at the hotend itself)? I'm going to be attaching a bltouch to my i3 mega, and the bracket for it is right beside it. I've been told PLA shouldn't be an issue as long as there's adequate cooling, but I dunno about that. Probably just going to get some PETG to make the bracket.
>>
>>1568190
>>1568189
You seem to be ignoring possibly the biggest rule of resin printing, which is "minimise footprint size". No wonder your prints are peeling off - they're a good 1/5 of the build plate, consistently. And if I were to guess, they're not hollow either, right?
>>
>>1568339
Enjoy charred filament and/or hotend. They're not going to be in great shape after being at temperature without material moving through it for that long.
>>
>>1566378
Stop being a tranny faggot and there won't be any problems. This should be obvious for any male space, especially on a board like /diy/. Sort your shit out.
>>
>>1568648
Which cooling fan mod is that?
>>
>>1568740
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1025471
>>
>>1568730
Those are hollow actually
I didn't know large footprints would be a problem, 2 prints before the first warped part I printed 10 beholder tentacles that the support raft covered literally the entire bed and there was no issue
>>
>>1568772
support raft being large isn't an issue, footprint of layer being printed is. The more area printed at once, the higher the "suction" force when you go up a layer, the more likelihood problems will occur. Large rafts actually tend to decrease detachment due to the lower force per area, if you support the print properly.
>>
>>1567713
but arnt thin layers better with overhangs because there is more overlapping between the layers?
>>
>>1568118
it is support material. di tends to do that in slic3r with thin support
>>
>>1566439
Yeah you don't want to use acetone on any 3d print surface. What happened in your case is luck.
You managed to get the acetone off before it warped or just plain melted the sheet.
The reason you got better adhesion is you exposed fresh plastic to your prints.
You may also have etched a surface pattern into the plastic. Tiny little bumps and holes that let the print stick better.

Don't expect it to last forever. It will wear out again.
Things you can use next time:
1. Standard dish washing liquid and water. Do final wipe with a lint free cloth and pure water that has had minerals removed.

2. Isopropyl alcohol 90-99% on a lint free cloth.

3. Window cleaner. Preferably brands marked clear or are a clear liquid. Use sparingly.

If you do have to replace your build material. Personally I love the Peopoly build sheet. Sticks stupid well to almost every printing plastic. Works wonders paired with a flex plate or a flex magnet sheet.
Not too expensive either. A few dollars a sheet.
>>
>>1566449
Acetone will make PLA go Matt on the surface.
Does nothing to PETg
If you want to melt PLA you are going to want to use Isopropyl 99%. For PETg you will probably want to use MEK (methyl ethyl ketone).
I use it for PETg smoothing.
You might read in some places that it can be found in some acetone free nail polishes.
This is true. You can also find another chemical in acetone free nail polish that dissolves PETg.
HOWEVER the concentrations found I those is far too low to help.
MEK can be bought easier than the other chemical and can be obtained in large quantities from a hardware store (not all places carry it since it is super dangerous).
Which leads me into.... It is super fing dangerous...
>>
>>1566527
Print quality looks trash anyway. Might as well redo it.
Looks like some extrusion issues and some crappy zits. Also some wall inconsistency.
>>
>>1567269
Smoothing will always have the most impact on clarity (beyond starting with a transparent filament).
By smoothing the layers you melt them together and start to reduce the number of gaps between layers that distort the light.
>>
>>1566323
Did they stop selling the Prusa i3 MK2S kit?

I already have a small budget printer that I've used for years now, so if I want a bigger, high quality printer, should I get the Prusa i3 MK3S (kit?) or a Lulzbot Mini?

budget is ~$1000 American
>>
>>1568867
You could always look around for a used MK2S.
>>
>>1568867
Spend a couple dollars more on the MK3 kit. It has better drivers.
>>
>>1568867
Yes, they stopped selling the MK2S. Get the MK3S, they're great.
>>
Holy fuck, why is thingiverse so fucking slow?
>>
>>1568882
It's been like that for ages (read: I remember at least a year), doesn't look like it'll improve; I read it's due to some malfunctioning tracking code.

Pretty much the only thing the site has going for it at this point is the massive amount of models it has and the fact everyone knows about it. The UI is garbage, the search sucks, and filtering doesn't even work like it's supposed to.
>>
>>1568894
That's why I always use yeggi to search for shit on thingiverse.
It finds more stuff on thingiverse than thingiverse's own internal search. It's such a joke.
>>
>>1568363
Thank you for the reply
>increase speed
The odd thing is that I have read the exact opposite. But maybe I am confusing this with overhangs? Because they must be printed slow to allow them to cool. Is it different for bridges? I may try it out today
>>
>>1568882
>>1568894
Thingiverses server structure and backend is a complete fuckup.
It's not the shear load alone. You just have to rennew your request 2-3 times and suddenly it'll get served immideately for some reason.
On top of that the search is completely broken.

One idea would be to crawl mirror the website content and rehost with a backend rewrite.
I don't think thingiverse will do shit about it.

>>1568896
good idea
>>
>>1568907
>speed
The idea is to give the filament less time to sag down during an overhang. But really you have to try that out.
Make a scientific attempt to get proven results.
>>
Is it possible to make the nozzle head play specific notes with just gcode?
I would like to make it play midi files, but i am unsure how to move the steppers with gcode to make the needed sounds
>>
>>1568968
The notes are played by a stepper motor moving at certain speeds. You'd have to get the right speed for the right note. After that you just make the print head move at that speed for the duration of the note. Since you have an X, Y, and Z axis you can play 3 channels. Bonus points for calculating where the print head is during all of this to keep it as close to center as possible.
>>
>>1568720
Dude it's not an issue.
The hotend fan will easily keep it cool enough.
>>
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I don't know dick about electronics really so bear with me here.

I'm having trouble figuring out where to connect my part cooling fan on an MKS Gen 1.4
In pic related you can see that there's a screw terminal meant for the heatsink fan but I can't see where else I can shove the other fan.
Right now I have it plugged into the 12V pins in the bottom left which works fine I guess but it means I can't control the fan from the LCD.
>>
>>1569041
That terminal is for the part cooling fan.
The hotend fan can just be connected directly to 12V, there's no point in controlling it.
>>
>>1569041
https://youtu.be/LNdMYgwez8Y?t=370

>>1569043
noise basically
>>
>>1569043
Oh fug.
Thanks man.
>>
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I hope my cute little filament sensor waifu works well.
I often want to print when not at home but i know i have say 30meters left on the spool and the print needs 50meters so i always have to break out a new spool and end up with a pile of near empty but not quite spools lying around
So i am going to set this shit up to m600, keep the bed hot, but cool the nozzle down and wait for me to get home and put a new spool in and then resume the print
i considered an optical sensor, but apparently they are unreliable pieces of shit
>>
>>1568968
Sure.
Say your printer needs x steps per mm.
If you want a 440Hz tone ("A") you need to calculate 440 [steps/second] / x [steps/mm] and you got how many mm/s you need to go to reach that tone.
If you got one tone it's pretty easy. The speed (frequency) for the next half note up is always the current speed (frequency) times the twelfth root of 2.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piano_key_frequencies

You could write a python script that you can feed in a sequence of notes and it spits out some gcode while ensuring not to reach the printer boundries.
Midi is a little tough for the beginning but go for it.

I want my Ender to play some doom midi when the prints done.
>>
do any of your 3d prints come out as wood-like?

also cura goes WAY OVERBOARD with the supports to the point where it's literally encased
>>
>>1568968
If your printer has a buzzer you can make it play tones with gcode

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:446853
>>
All of your 3D printers are of deprecated pieces of shit.
Collect all of them and drive them to you local dump.
This is the future.
Print of any size in minutes, with microscopic details, and unlimited printing around existing objects, for example throw in a figurine and print a space ship around it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yy-d5VVZlxQ

I will be dropping by later to check that all of the archaic piece of shit printers you have no have been properly disposed of.
>>
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>>1569490
>>
>>1569490

You can do away with the loud "this is the future" and "curent printers belong in the dump" claims. I saw it a few weeks ago, it's neat, but there's noting *gamechanging*, it's just a new approach to SLA. The time FDM is deprecated is when engineering plastics become obsolete, which is probably never.
>>
>>1569490
Call me when it doesn't need special UV sensitive resin.
>>
How do resin prints stack up against FDM in terms of strength? If I print, say, a ball bearing in plastic and one in resin, which will wear out first? I imagine an ABS bearing would be more durable, but is that offset by how the resin one would potentially have less rolling resistance due to the finer tolerances?
>>
>>1569497
just get a metal printer if you want to print that stuff
>>
>>1569500
Answer the question, you nitwit. I've printed ball bearings in my FDM printer and they've worked just fine. Not as good as the real deal obviously, but well enough for the gadgets I usually print anyway. If you want to come in here with bait about how your resin printer makes my plastic printer obsolete, you need to actually demonstrate its superiority.
Now tell me, if I print a 10x10x100 bar of resin and one of ABS, which would break first in a bend test? Which would survive best as a component in something that sees regular use? Which would survive outdoors exposure best?
>>
>>1569502

Not the anon, but what's with the pointless hostility? There are many different resin formulations, some of them are intended to be tough, some soft, some clear etc.

https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Tough-Resin?language=en_US
>>
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I bought this to replace my cut up Ender 3 bed.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143080347315

But it has a thick plastic tile, and my original bed was a thin flexible thing. Can I peel off the buildtak from my flexible bed and stick the new one on?
>>
>>1568618
>Is combing a universal setting I can keep at infill only or do I have to adjust it based on the print?

Basically yes, I have it dialed in my generic profile so it just werks.
Combing is basically skipping retraction in places you don't care about stringing, like within infill. If you disable it you'll get perfect infill but the print will take forever, since it'll do retractions between every infill line
>>
where are all the 3D printed pepes
>>
When i copy paste an m600 command into my gcode to change fillament, i would also like the bed to move forwards instead of backwards
Is there a gcode or something to do this?
But it musn't fuck up the print after i resume it tho
>>
>>1569564
The problem is that if i do something like
m600;
move command here;

then the move command only gets executed after m600 finishes which is useless since that means i resumed the print
>>
>>1569555
In a fire where dead memes belong.
>>
I've got an anet A8 and want to strip the parts for my own build. Any ideas of what I could do?
>>
>>1569490
What printer do you have?
That video is a lot of marketing wank for not having a product.
>>
>>1569539
no not really but you can buy replacement buildtak sheets of the same size and apply it
>>
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I have a creality CR-10
What's the strongest filament blend I can use? Try'na make some mechanical parts that will actually hold up to use for prototyping.
>>
>>1569643
abs
>>
>>1569645
I've been told that most ABS is industrial blend with additives for injection molding, who makes the best 3d printing optimized blend?
>>
Do slicers like simplify3d print in absolute or relative mode when moving the nozzle?
>>
>>1569647
In Europe, Primamaker. No idea what yankee or asian filament measures up to it.
>>
>>1569648
absolute
>>
>>1569648
It tells the printer absolute coordinates, but the printer is of course open loop stepper motor and not closed loop servo so it inherently works relative. Miss one step on an axis and everything else on that axis will be shifted by one step.
>>
>>1569539
>>1569629
The kit he bought comes with a build tak sheet.

I don't know if you can get it off the flexplate without damaging the plate, but it's not like you have a choice any ways right?
>>
>>1569693
With relative coordinates you would get layer shifts from missed commands, with absolute you only get them from missed steps. It makes bigger g code, sure, but it's the better option.
>>
>>1569705
With relative coordinates, the slicer would also need to know the exact distance from the home position to the center of the bed.

The one thing you could want relative positioning for would be the extuder axes but the slicer simply sets the current position to 0 at the beginning and then continues with "absolute" coordinates.
>>
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How come so many universities have a FDM machine with paste extruder celebrating their unique ceramics 3D-printer?
>>
That guy with the shitty infill back again, it's conclusively a problem with PETG. My PLA finally arrived, and it prints infill perfectly at three times the speed the PETG needed, and this is literally the first try (well, second, I forgot to change the Z offset the first one).

Why would my printer print walls and surfaces perfectly with PETG, but fail so miserably at infill, and only infill?
>>
>>1569778
Different pros and cons from plastic filaments anon
>Ceramic can be fired and glazed, making it food safe.
>Ceramic can be reconstituted very easily, making failed prints cost nothing but time.
>Clay is cheaper than plastic filament by a long shot.
>Elaborate clay pots sell better than PLA ones.
>No heated bed or heated extruder = no fire risk
It's a fast, easy, and cheap device that doesn't take up a lot of space and ties directly in to existing equipment that allow a college's ceramics lab to remain technologically competitive. There's no reason for even a small college not to have one.
>>
>>1569843
Plastic doesn't need to be fired, can also be glazed and food safe, and for large scale production it's economical to recycle filament from failed or surplus prints. Plastic is also more durable and wasn't invented in the literally prehistoric fucking era. Science.
>>
>>1569848
Shut it nerd, ceramic is here to stay
>>
>>1569848
FDM plastic is only food safe once you go through enough bullshit to smooth out all the microscopic imperfections and Z axis lines to prevent bacterial growth, where ceramic uses a known and tried & true process to achieve the same result. Glass glaze also looks better than whatever faggoty plastic finish you can pull out your ass.

We're talking universities. "Large scale production" does not apply and as I said failed before surplus ceramic prints can be recycled by using the same equipment and techniques every college ceramics lab already uses on other failed pieces. There's zero cost of expansion to accommodate a ceramic printer in a ceramics lab.

Finally if you think plastic is more durable than ceramic then humor me by putting a plastic printed plate in the microwave for 5 minutes.
Prehistoric fucking era materials are still used for a reason and just because your weak millennial body can't hold up a stoneware plate or mug without injuring yourself isn't going to change that.
>>
>>1569490
Shouldn't you be drinking malt liquor, label out, waist deep in a swamp with a balaclava on somewhere?
>>
>>1569841
75mm/s is pretty good for an Ender 3, no? What filament are you using?
>>
>>1569647
>>1569651

PushPlastic for USA. They got two blends, one standard and the other for less warping.
>>
>>1569490
>Call me when I can buy one that can print 220mm^3 for $300.
>Call me when I can buy the resin for $20 / kilogram.
>Call me when there's a fucking product on the market and not some tech wank video.
Have fun waiting for your niche printer to be anything more than an expensive toy you jack off to the dream of owning while I continue to print things on my existing FDM printer.
>>
>>1569919
It's good that he's meme printer won't come out, he'll die of cancer a week after he gets it.
Oh wait, that means is bad.
>>
>>1569922
Don't get me wrong, I like new things. I like seeing 3d printing hit new strides and seeing new shit come out, but I know better than to listen to any faggot who points at one specific kind of anything and declares "this is the fucking future".
FDM, rolls of filament, and moving extruders aren't going anywhere unless some new resin printer can match or beat it in speed, price, build area, and lack of toxicity. Right now it fails on all 4 accounts.
>>
>>1569490
When Monoprice comes out with a $400 version of this in 20 years, I will definitely buy it. My garbage-ass Form 2 will have to do until then.
>>
>get filament skipping when printing at high speeds and .2 layer height
>realise that I can double the speeds and print at .1 layer height and get the same printing times but much higher quality
>it's taken me three years to figure this out
I am officially retarded.
>>
>>1567549
>>1567563
>>1567566
desu senpai you can make a mint selling those guys SS black sun medallions and various other runes and nazi paraphernalia
>>
>>1569972
Do you know what this means? you can quadruple the speeds to get the same quality at .05mm heights

If you 10x the speed you get the same quality at .01 layer height

Bruh 100x the speed and you can print at 1 micron

>harvard wants to know your location
>>
Did I meme myself retarded?

Bought some capricorn tubing on a whim, installed it, made sure my extrusion rate was properly re-calibrated, and now I'm getting under-extrusion out the ass
>>
>>1569988
Where?
Dont etsy and store envy take down "nazi" stores?
[spoiler]how much do you make doing it? I have been looking for something to use my printer besides useless trinkets
>>
>>1570040
Did uhhh
You buy the right diameter tubing for your filament?
>>
>>1570056
Yeah, XS for 1.75mm diameter. Seems to fit fine through it, but it's the only thing I've changed.
>>
>>1569510
>Not the anon, but what's with the pointless hostility?
Not the anon (no joke), but that dude just gave one of the most stupid typical internet answers, that he doesnt deserve any better.
>what is better X or Y for Z
>dude, just buy a W that costs like hundreds of times more
>>
Why do i need to have a fan on the heating element in the nozzle?
It is loud as fuck and it seems useless to me.
Think about it,
you run current through the heating element to get the nozzle hot, and when it reaches the temperature you want you simply turn the power off.
Why the fuck do you need a fan?

Heatbead works like that as well and there aren't any fans on it because it also wouldn't make any sense.
If you want to stop the thing from heating up, don't put a fan on it, just cut the power.
>>
>>1570040
>>1570089
Capricorn can through its tighter diameter cause more friction with filament that has a more inconsitent diameter. Maybe tune up the current for the extruder a little. Also check how much "dust" the extruder gear produces with the filament compared to before, depending on how shit your extruder is, it maybe just can handle the extra force needed.
Like always, could be something else, but those are the first things that come to mind.
>>
>>1570098
And no i don't mean the print cooling fans i mean the heat element fan
>>
>>1570089
Isn't XS the one you use to line the hotend?
I think TL is the one for bowden.
>>
>>1570098
> it seems useless to me.
>Think about it,
>Why the fuck
Have a nice cup of "maybe i am not smarter than anyone else in this".
You want to keep the temperature transition zone as short as possible or you will end up with filament getting soft and sticky starting to glue against the walls and get a clog. Retractions wouldnt work at all without it.
In the earlier days people used to use PTFE or PEEK to take care of the problem, but in the end they are still worse than the cooled version.

There is a fucking reason that 99% of all hotends out there today got a fan or a place for one.
>>
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>>1570098
Most hotends are made up of the folliwing compontents (from bottom to top):
>Nozzle
>Heater block
>Heater cartridge
>Temperature sensor (thermistor, PT100, etc.)
>Heat break
>Heat sink
>Active cooling fan
>Some form of adapter to fit either a bowden tube or direct extruder

The heat break is there to ensure that as little heat as possible goes from the melt zone (nozzle and just there above) into the cold zone. Without this and the active cooling on the heat sink, the melt zone would creep upward to the point where it would melt most of the filament above the nozzle, and then the extruder can't compress it through the nozzle anymore. If your melt zone can eb and flow like that, it's bound to cool down and stick to the walls, causing a clog in your hotend in a point where just heating and pushing hard won't fix it, it takes complete disassembly to fix that.

>tl;dr melt zone control
>>
>>1570103
>>1570104
Well fuck. That sucks.
I have two print cooling fans which i cannot even hear when they run, the servos only make quiet buzzing sound, but the stupid nozzle fan is like a fucking jet engine.
If it wasn't for it, i could easily print during night and not be even able to hear the printer during day.
>>
>>1570105
It shouldn't be like that, since it's the smallest fan usually running at a calm pace you really need to check if it's damaged and possible replace it with a quiter running example.
>>
>>1570106
It is not broken, it is just really loud.
I can compare it to a PC GPU fan running at maximum speed (in those GPUs that have those smaller ones, not those big ones that run slow and quiet)
>>
>>1570105
>>1570107
Dunno what kind of fan you got, but the 30mm on the E3D V6 like are normally annoyingly loud. Just make a mount for a bigger quieter one and buy a decent fan, it needs an airflow of about 5 cubic feet per minute or 8.50 cubic meters per hour for E3D V6 style hotend.
>>
>>1570108
Is the nozzle fan 12V always running at 100%
because i know i can pwn the print cooling fans
>>
>>1570110
Yes, it is a safety feature.
>>
>>1570111
I'll try making a mount for a larger fan but it will suck dick, because the print head is a big piece of metal that has the fan (of course) on the inside and is hard to get to
and i will have to also change the second jet engine, which is the board cooling fan
>>
i am about to run out of filament, oh boy, i really hope my fancy new filament sensor i made works and triggers a filament change or i just wasted 30 meters of filament.
kind of wish i tested it on a smaller print first
>>
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I finally bought some set squares, I've been having issues with first layer variations even with auto bed levelling sensors. Everything was square apart from this one extrusion on the power supply side, a bit of light filing and its all square now and printing much better.
I should have done this sooner, but babbies first printer and all that.
>>
>>1570117
yay it worked, no more fucked up prints and melted nozzles
>>
>>1569886
I took it all the way to four times, so I'm now printing at 100mm/s (25 first layer and 50 outer walls), and my print quality is perfect. It's "bravo" filament, some generic German filament I think, but 100mm/s with a mostly stock Ender 3 is pretty fair I think. I've added a bltouch to it and replaced the worn out stock nozzles with e3d ones, but that's it. Nothing that should have had this sort of effect on the printer.
>>
>>1570175
Please post one of your 100mm/s prints. (Isn't the Ender 3 stock fw locking at 60mm/s?)

>Bravo filament
This does not exist, please provide a link
>>
>>1570040
Take the nozzle off, make sure you can run the tube all the way through the hot end, then reassemble. Also, do some light sanding on the end you cut if it isn't flat. I was having the same issue until I realized the tube wasn't in as far as it should be because I didn't push hard enough, and then I had some char in the hot end keeping it from going any deeper as a result.
>>
>tfw cheap local made filament clogs up your nozzle
there goes my national pride
>>
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r8 chain design
>>
>>1570385
shit colour / 5
>>
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>>1570411
jokes on you i dont even have that colour filament
>>
>>1570420
what do you need a plastic chain that can't hold any weight and melts at lows temps for?
>>
>>1570425
wtf i thought this was 3dpg i didnt expect the spanish inquisition
>>
>>1570420
>>1570437
so what are you gonna use it for?
>>
>>1570504
i'm just learning by prototyping random mechanical parts, but i want to make some kind of useless mechanism involving gears and chains eventually
i refuse to download anything from other people
>>
New Thread: >>1570602
>>
College student buying first printer, likely the Creality Ender 3.

I'm concerned about prints taking more than 24 hours where I would have to leave it unattended in my apartment. Does the "resume feature" mess up prints and is only recommended for legit power failures or could I split up a print like that in say 15 hour increments? I know it's rare but printers do catch on fire and thus shouldn't be left unattended.
>>
>>1570713
The thing to worry about isn't fire hazard, the main problem is failure rate. Murphy's law applies, so a 24 hour print will fail at hour 23.
To combat the fire hazard, take the Ender and throw proper Marlin firmware on there with an intact thermal runaway protection. If there's anything wrong with the hotend it should shut down using that. Also never position your printer so it can ignite other objects: make sure there's no fuel nearby. I wouldn't worry about fire hazard, I've been printing for years now and the only time I saw things glow (nevermind actually on fire) was when thermal runaway wasn't set properly, or I set prints on fire with a blowtorch.
Always try and cut up 24 hour prints though. Slice them in parts and glue them together, learn how to (friction) weld plastics, or add features so the parts can bolt/slot/dovetail/whatever together. This may add a bit of total print time and a bit of material, but in the end it'll make up for even a single print failure on a big part.
>>
>>1570385
Why not reduce the poly resolution even more
>>
If i make a 5mm thick 5x5cm square for pla, printed on the flat side, and make a hole in the middle, how much weight can it hold if i say hand it from a nail in the wall or something?
>>
>>1571124
It depends on the PLA and how much infill you use.
>>
>>1570437
No one expects the spanish inquisition!



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