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didn't see one thought Id start one
Recently started with really basic Mead made from Honey (local obviously didnt pay shit for three jars of the stuff) water basic wine yeast and some dried cherries for taste. its pretty nice after half a year bottled and i have some more bottled for future tasting, any recommendations?
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Quinces come along nicely, even the "bourbon" is getting better, albeit it still tastes funky, a pleasant but unexpected strong malty/cereal flavour, despite being double distilled and cut reasonably.
>>
Also started recently, mid 2018 ish.
Just bottled a pear melomel.
I'm thinking maybe a traditional, or an acerglyn next.
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All my fermenters are full so I started a batch of kimchi today
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Well fellas, I've begun my foray into brewing mead. Started with the JOA recipe, here's to it coming out half decent.
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>>1531201
>>1528159
whats your expected timeline for the fermentation? I've seen some reports that you have to wait up to a year for mead. Also what ABV are you expecting?
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>>1531389
Depends on the weather really, it's going on to mid summer here so I wouldn't be surprised if it's done in 1.5 months.

From what I understand with mead, you dont want to vigorously ferment (4 month fermentation period is not uncommon), it gives a harsher alcohol taste. It's like a wine tho, so the longer it sits once its fermented the more mellow and subtle the flavours become. So that's why it takes longer. The flip side is I guess that you make a large batch and sample it along the way.
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>>1531619
Isn't it always hot in 'straya?
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>>1531664
Depends how far inland/north you live.
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>>1528159
I have ten fermenters empty and two batches that need to be bottled. How do I regain the same zeal I had when I first started?
>>
I made about 5l of plum wine in summer, fruit from our garden. I'm impressed how much the taste improved over time. It was rather sour first, pleasant, but like fresh juice. Its a lot more mellow now, tastes great.
>>
Made some mead in a coke bottle with bread yeast before. Apparently there are 3 mead recipes generally used by the breweries in poland 1:1 honey to water 1:2 and 1:3. Do not know if this is bs. Left it for a week came back it was fuckawfully bad. Thought fuck it let the stuff settle. Came back later and it was absolutely delicious. Only used 4 things didnt sterilize the bottle at all just grabbed a random cole bottle that was clean and empty and yeast and honey and water. Degassed a few times i think. Literally that simple. Yeast water honey and time. Pretty much impossible to fuck up unless you somehow manage to contaminate it with god knows what.
>>
>>1533206
Take a break, do other things.

You might find that you no longer care for brewing. You might come back to it with a new passion. Dont force yourself into doing it if you dont want to, because then you'll hate it more.
>>
>>1533206
Invite your friends and neighbors and get them drunk. Half the neighborhood patting you on the shoulder and complementing you on your brew will help.
>>
I've got an uninsulated garage and live in new jersey.
How badly would this fuck me if I were to put my brews out there to ferment?
>>
>>1533733
Ale yeast will stop fermenting at 15°C, Lager yeast can ferment down to temperatures around 8°C. If the temperatures in your garage drop below this thresholds you either need to brew seasonally or build some heating/isolation for your fermenters.
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>>1528159
Would it be possible to brew something. Distill it. And run my gasoline lawn mower on it.
Just for fun.
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>>1533752
Yes, no problem.
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>>1533743
Not that guy but 15° sounds like a very high lower limit.
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>>1533755
Celsius dude.
>>
>>1533752
Sure. It would probably cost about $25 a gallon but you could do it.
>>
>>1533794
No, if you ferment sugar its more like $2-$3 per gallon, not including the work.
>>
>>1533773
Of course, 15°F is below freezing.
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>>1533807
Most wine and ale yeasts will go to sleep at around 15°C, the only commercial yeas that will ferment with lower temps is Lager beer yeast (Pilsner) and some low temp yeasts for fruit brandies, those can tolerate temps down to 8°C before they begin to hibernate.
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>>1533819
From my personal experience prolonged temperatures that are significantly below 15° aren't an issue at all, not using fancy yeast strains either.
>>
>>1533840
It won't kill the yeast, it will just stop it from working and producing ethanol. If your yeast worked at lower temps it likely was a modern beer strain (Lager), those are most common yeasts nowadays and they will ferment down to 8°C. The problem gets more prominent if you ferment to higher ABV's, like fermenting beer to 5% is less complicated than to ferment wine to 14%.
>>
Anyone make their own beer? Not a fan of the local hop water dispensaries.
>>
>>1533855
Lots of people do. Look into a Mr. Beer brewkit or similar.
>>
Made some heffeweizen and used Wyeast Activator 3068 for my yeast, its been about 20 hrs scince pitching it into 80 degree wort and i dotn see any bubbles forming should i bee concerned?

if so i have some champagne yeast, should i use that instead?
>>
Can anyone give me a guide on how to start brewing? infographics maybe?
>>
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>tfw I taste my mead after a year of aging and it tastes like ass
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>>1533946
Your best bet is to visit a homebrewing shop and talk with the workers about your budget and desired brewing quantities. If you are on a lower budget and just want to try it out, there are reasonably-priced starter kits which will allow you to do hybrid extract/grain brewing from prepackaged kits which come with instructions and all the materials (except bottles) you'll need to brew 5 gallons of beer. If you enjoy it and have some more space in your budget, you can then move on to all-grain brewing.
>>
>>1528159
In the process of brewing beer for my March wedding. I've brewed and bottled a barleywine, amber ale, and honey hefe so far. Currently lagering a Budweiser clone so we have something that doesn't offend midwestern palates. Final brew will be an extra juicy IPA.
>>
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>>1533946
unironically
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>>1534549
enjoy your methanol
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>>1533946
I basically learnt the process just by watching Youtube vids.

In the beginning I was a bit confused as there are a few different ways most homebrewers do it (brew in a bag, extract, all grain). Once you work out which is which, or which you think you would be most interested in, you can focus learning more about that particular style.

Personally I just went straight to all grain. After watching a few videos I knew thats what I wanted to do and is normally where most people end up if they start off with BIAB or extract.
>>
>>1534698
>methanol
>from brewing
even if you drank all 5 gallons at once there wouldn't be enough methanol in it to matter, you simp
>>
>>1534849
Enjoy your ethanol then
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>>1534856
thanks, you too
>>
>>1533297
Can you share your recipe? I'm about to try make some plum wine itself. I'm interested in giving it a go but have never made a wine yet.
>>
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>>1534955
I freestyled a little but heres the general process for my 12l barrel:
-wash all equipment thourougly (hot water, dish washer tablets, if you want to be extreme)
-destone enough plums to fill the container a little over the half
-mush them, but not to puree, just kind of chunky so you can easily seperate them later
-fill with water up to about 4/5ths of the container, so that it will not foam over (depends on your container)
I guess you could add some spices too here, if you are feeling fancy, maybe honey or something.
Here comes the "sciency" bit: I have an acid testing kit allowing me to read out the grams of acid per liter. Apparently 4-8.5 g/l is nice so I usually set it to about 6.5 using citric acid and/or lactic acid. I also add a yeast nutrient salt, which has its own dosage guidelines, so you would probably get different amounts from mine. You could probably also disregard these things and still get a fine result, its just stuff I found on the internet and subsequently used.
I then put 2kgs of white sugar in, which was eyeballed... The plums were rather sweet already (the wine is too). Then add the yeast.
Close your barrel and wait for it to begin fermenting. Might foam somewhat, mine cooked over two times. Put it in a larger tub to save your carpets. Have it ferment like a week and then filter out the fruit flesh using a cloth. Let it sit again for a few weeks or so until the bubbling has subsided mostly. Shake it daily to keep it well mixed and to get the CO2 out so you notice when the production has stopped.
Then separate the wine from the yeast sludge on the bottom. I have large bottles with reusable caps in which I transfer it. Usually I have to repeat this step another time to get the last sludge and fruit out. Watch out, it might still be fermenting slightly check for pressure buildup. Your wine should be ready then (apart from aging).
This... Is not a recipe at all... Still hope I can help you a bit with my rambling.
>>
>>1534955
I made several fruit wines, plums amongst them. what this dude said is mostly right, just a few addons
>>1535052
>-wash all equipment thourougly
>-destone enough plums to fill the container a little over the half
2/3's if you want to max out
>-mush them, but not to puree, just kind of chunky so you can easily seperate them later
no, mush them to pulp and and at pectylase enzyme, every homebrow or wine shop will have this
>-fill with water up to about 4/5ths
>I guess you could add some spices too here, if you are feeling fancy, maybe honey or something.
meh
>Here comes the "sciency"
set the PH of your mash to 3.5, use testing strips and citric acid to balance it down slowly, keep it between 3.2 and 3.8.
>I then put 2kgs of white sugar in, which was eyeballed... The plums were rather sweet already (the wine is too).
2kg on 12L will kick your ABV by around 5%
>Then add the yeast.
select a red wine yeast, Port or Sherry yeasts work good.
>Close your barrel and wait for it to begin fermenting. Might foam somewhat, mine cooked over two times. Put it in a larger tub to save your carpets. Have it ferment like a week and then filter out the fruit flesh using a cloth.
Do not filter your mash at all during fermentation, use the enzyme, let it ferment for 2-3 months and the wine will get clear all by itself and the solids will set on the bottom. now you can filter.Also do not shake daily, but push down the solid fruit cake on top with a plunger once a week. Fermentation can take 2-3 months, 17-19° Celsius is recommended. When you stir it and it diesn't sparkle no more, fermentation is over.
>Then separate the wine from the yeast sludge on the bottom. I have large bottles with reusable caps in which I transfer it. Usually I have to repeat this step another time to get the last sludge and fruit out. Watch out, it might still be fermenting slightly check for pressure buildup. Your wine should be ready then (apart from aging).
>>
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>>1535083
>pectylase enzyme
pectinase, it's a natural enzyme that acts as an anti coagulant and with time will break down all the solids in the mash. You can get a pack for a $ or so at the homebrew/wine store. Like yeast it is temperature sensitive, so never drop it in hot water or hot mash.
>>
>>1533806
>>1533794
>>1533752
You're distilling it. So, it'll cost about $10.70 per gallon of pure ethanol . That's a good bit cheaper than say denatured ethanol used for non-edible things like cleaning, thinning, or industrial purposes.

Most lawn mowers shouldn't use a higher rating than E10 for the gasoline. Using pure ethanol in them means you'll need to swap out the original motor with one rated for ethanol use.
>>
>>1534549
Stop posting this shit.
>>
>>1535091
96% pure is max for distillation ethanol.
>>
>>1535097
No one claimed it would taste good, but it will get you shitfaced.
Besides you don't even need a proper airlock, just something that requires a light overpressure for the gas to escape is sufficient.
Also what this >>1533364 anon did doesn't sound radically different from the "troll" image.
>>
>>1535083
Ah, yes I forgot to mention the enzyme, I use it too. Tanks for adding. Can you really let the wine sit with all the fruit inside for 2-3 months? I always hear that having the fruit and "solid" yeast inside for too long will promote bad, yeasty tastes
>>
>>1535307
That depends on a lot variables, yeast selection is one of them, sugarhead the other. In my experience, if you aim for a normal abv in the 12% ballpark and use a suitable wine yeast you should have no problems taste wise, no need for nutrient salts, no need to bring in your sugar head in 2-3 charges and just the normal contamination problems you get with wine making. Once the wine clears itself, the yeast taste will be completely gone. With this abv it is recommended to filtrate sooner and the storage life of your wine won't be that high, but this is a simple straight forward method to make fruit wines. I'd recommend this for a beginner, you can get all ingredients for cheap nearly everywhere and it takes like 2 months.

If you aim for Turbo strength, 16-20% ballpark things get complicated, You won't have any contamination risks as the high alc will kill most problematic micro fauna, but you need to calculate the nutrients, add the sugar head in different charges, select a suitable yeast, keep the temperature in a tight band, and even if you do everything right it will end up sharp with an acetate finish that will only fade off after 2-3 months of maturing. Most Turbo yeast on the market won't work and leave a bad yeast taste behind. The gold standard for high abv fruit yeasts is Prestige Fruit Schnapps yeast or Prestige 8kg Turbo yeast, both from Gert Strand AB, those yeast are already spiked with the required amount of nutrients for a 25l batch size. Only do thisif you know what you're doing, get the right ingredients and have 6 months time to wait.
>>
Hey guys,

I work in qatar and booze is super expensive here. I just bought a package of super yeast from amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0064O77LQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I see that the package says it can make 25L. Can I half the dose into the fermenter to stretch it further to like 50 or 75L? I brew in easy-to-manage 1 gallon water jugs.

I can keep the package closed and in the fridge or freezer.

BTW I am a chemical engineer and I used to manufacture my own amphetamine, MDMA and 2c-b back in my home country. So I'm not a novice to making things. I don't have much time here though - its a 6 day week and every minute I'm not building this fuckin refinery is a precious gift to me.
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>>1536701
A bottle of vodka is about 40-50USD now (recently a 100% tax was put on booze, tobacco etc).

Brewers yeast isn't sold here and I'm hoping to minimize how often I have to ship it in with a whole lot of other amazon ordered products.

I'm hoping to make strong, shitty grog, just like I've been doing, but there's S.F.A brewing supplies in this country.

I was using bakers yeast for the last 6 months, and honestly it does the trick fine. But I don't like drinking a lot of residual sugars so I want a higher conc booze.

I have an idea for a 5 or 10L still I can run in my bathroom and vent out the 2nd story bathroom fan.

Suggestions for beer/spirit mash ingrediants, considering my limited time and resources where I am?
Basically, I have access to sugar and cartons of juice. Fresh fruit isn't super cheap and nor is my time, so I'll probably be sticking with cheap grog. No hops anywhere.
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>>1536702
can you get tomato paste? if so look up birdwatchers wash, meant to distill nice (note i haven't tried it personally)
>>
>>1536703
>>1536703
Yes I can get tomato paste. I will look into this:
http://www.distillate.org/recipe/Vodka/Tomato%20Paste%20Wash%20%28TPW%29

I'm thinking what I'll do is get a 20L bucket with a lid, some molasses/honey/sucrose and dextrose (if available). Do a pint yeast starter with honey or molasses and a tsp of yeast.

Then do a mash with 300g sugar/L using apple juice and whatever sugar syrups or honey I can buy to make it up. I'll add the sugar in increments. Looking for a 15%+ alcohol content.

I think I'll leave the lid off for the primary fermentation. I was just reading that a mash which is fermenting in a clean bucket isn't likely to be contaminated in primary ferment. The oxygen supposedly helps the fermentation kick off.

There's no malt extract here either.
>>
>>1534849
It was a bit harder to find out about methanol production during fermentation. You always hear people ask about "going blind" when they drink homebrew, lol.

Pectin is a poly-saccharide; methyl esters of galactose. Methyl esters aren't too hard to hydrolyze into methanol in general. Pectin occurs in plums and berries in highest amounts.

More concerning are the fusel oils you get when making spirits. Butanols, pentanols and other longer chain alcohols. These things are toxic and will worsen your hangovers significantly. That's why you discard the early heads component during spirits distillation.

>>1535052
This plum wine looks real nice. I wonder if I can find pectinase here.

>>1535342
This is an interesting opinion. But what about running a 16-20% mash and then distillation in a pot still, followed by carbon filtration? The carbon will absorb the heavy odor and flavour components, leaving a nice neutral spirit. That's what I saw a friend of mine do with his reflux still and vodka that came out of it. The activated carbon left it as smooth as silk!
>>
>>1536702
Fruitjuice of your choice and sugar will result in some kind of brandy. The yeast you bought is a turbo yeast, it is meant to ferment sugar water into cheap alcohol in 96h and for this it is already loaded with yeast nutrients. Normally this will leave a bad yeast taste in the alcohol and most shiners will distill to maximum 94-96° and filter their product over active coal for a neutral product. this is fastest, but you need a distillation column still

If you work with fruit juices (unfiltered preferably) and sugar you can use normal wine yeast and a tablespoon of yeast nutrient salt and end up with around 15% in 3-4 weeks and something that actually tastes brandy like and doesn't need additional filtering. distill in simple pot still once or twice

If you want to push your fruit mash abv into the 18%-20%, follow the Schmickl method and use Gert Strand turbo yeast strains. this yields best/quality/quantity and takes a shitload of time. distill in simple pot still once

A cheap way for grain based is get yourself ht amylase and glucoamylase enzymes and mash whatever grain or starch veggy you have and turn that into vodka/whisky. calculate the gravity of the mash so you end up with 10-11%, mashing grains is additional work, but the mash ferments rapidly in 72h. needs double distillation in pot still, but the resulting product is usually pretty good.

Choose a path that fits your production methods and the equipment and ingredients you can get and start from there. Pro tip,check out "Prestige" brand yeasts (Gert Strand) they are preloaded with enzymes and nutrients for specific products (sugar, fruit, grain, molasses) and work well for small batches. and yes, you can break 25l batch packages down to smaller batches.
>>
>>1536732
If you carbon filter then really go Turbo all the way, use 8kg Prestige Turbo Yeast, make a 25l pure sugar mash, ferment that in 5 days, run it trough a column to 94%, active carbon the shit out of it, dilute it down and you'll end up with ~ 8 liters of 45% neutral vodka every week. it is probably the most efficient way work hours and money wise and what most of Scandinavia does to get a cheap drink.
Get yourself one of those 30L fruit juice barrels, get a column still, get the yeast, get 8kg of sugar and you're set.
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>>1536736
It's almost illegal to even look at a still where I'm from, could I get away with active carbon filtering the wash without distilling it?
The idea is to have a base fermented product that additional flavor and sweetness will be added to later. Because flavor isn't a worry it would be pasteurized beforehand to kill the yeast.
Or would I be better off using normal high tolerance yeast and just waiting longer?
>>
>>1533940
NVM it sorted itself out
>>
What are some good online resources I can use to learn more about homebrewing? I bought a kit from brewdemon and it came out fine but I think I want to get into all grain in the future
>>
>>1537018
Dont be a pussy

>>1536735
For yeast nutrient I think I will get some diammonium hydrogen phosphate DAP and see if there's some other stuff I can get as well. I cant find any sellers on amazon that ship to Qatar that have fermaid K or fermaid O which is popular on the brew sites.

I can ship these to qatar https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WT20TL2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WRPPUJC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1510WIMZY1W1R&psc=1

The first is DAP, vitamin B, mag sulfate and yeast hulls.
Second is diammonium phosphate, dipotassium phosphate, magnesium sulfate and autolyzed yeast cells.

Cant find any Qatar shippers for those yeasts you mention on amazon.

I see a surprising number of people talking about using bread yeasts for wines and meads even up to 12-15%. I wonder if this is because of added nutrients, rehydration and starting the yeast in a low sugar environment. So, more about the treatment of the yeast and rate of fermentation than the strand itself.

This website here talks about home made yeast nutrients.
https://denardbrewing.com/blog/post/Nutrient-fruit/
Quite interesting.
>>
>>1537018
In that case simply make wine or pruno. You can make real delicious fruit wines with little work.
>>1537285
No need to buy nutrients if you buy a Turbo yeast as those contain a pre-measured dose of nutrients for the desired strength. They are designed to ferment sugar water, fruit or grain mashes will contain most essential nutrients needed and normally don't need additional nutrients, and fruit juices will only require reduced charges. Most yeast will kick the bucket at around 12% max, wine yeast will go to 14-15%, sweet wine yeast 16-18% and some select ultra high gravity strains will kick it up to 25% they all produce different flavor profiles and will take their sweet time to completely ferment and even longer to lose certain undesirable flavor profiles.
>>
Could fermenting pumpkins produce anything drinkable? I have so many and cant cook them all
>>
>>1537875
a quick google turns up a few pumpkin wine recipes and one pumpkin wine sold by a winery that reports it's made only from pie pumpkins. https://commonsensehome.com/how-to-make-pumpkin-wine/
this recipe kinda makes it sound like pumpkin beer with no hops. if you've got that much extra, might be worth taking a stab at.
>>
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Ive made up some washes using boiled lentils, sugar and fruit juices.

I put a few tbsp of turbo yeast into 500ML of water in a 4L jug, and let it rehydrate for 30 min. Then I poured in juice and lentils. After another 30min I added sugar.

Orange juice seems to be bad for yeast early on, due to acidity.
Pineapple juice is really bad, with both acidity and digestive enzymes.

However, grape apple lychee and other non-acidic fruits seem to do really well.
I bought some cartons of guava juice. Its more like guava pulp though. Very thick. The yeast loved it and started foaming up within 3 hours. Blew the top off my bottle too.

I'm going to start building my own water cooled condenser this weekend using copper fittings.
>>
How do I clear my mead without bentonite clay

I fucking hate that clay, it never wants to dissolve and just fucking sticks to everything
>>
>>1538527
I've used gelatin finings, and chitosan and kitosol to decent effect. a lot of my meads just clear after a couple months in secondary too, I dunno what yeast you're using.
>>
>>1533551
>>1533206
this actually does help. I used to brew beer every 1.5-2 months and took a break for about a year. Got back into it because friends and family kept asking me to make more since they liked it so much.

I've made 3 batched since September and have the ingredients, minus the yeast, for an IPA that I want to brew once I've transferred my current batch from my fermenter to my keg.
>>
How about a recipe for sour beer with a ABV of >7.5%?

I have 21 lbs of red currants I can use in my freezer from this summer
>>
>>1539143
never brewed a sour myself but what I've done in the past is go to Brewers Friend and looked at their recipes for inspiration. You dont need an account to browse the recipes or use their recipe calculator if you just want to dick around with with a recipe.
This sour has good ratings but is ~6%. You could always increase the base malt or add corn sugar to increase ABV and switch out the mango for your red currants
https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/561275/hoppy-mango-kettle-sour
https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/calculator
>>
>>1533206
Make some apfelwein. It's super easy and let it ferment for a year. That way your fermenters are used up and you feel better
>>
>>1538527
Just wait, mine got clear as water after a couple of months
>>
>start making cherry wine in june
>rack it in like july
>forgot you made cherry wine in june
>find it in your closet
what are the chances it's not super fucked up? The airlock never evaporated and there's nothing growing in/on it
>>
>>1539345
probably very good. especially if you racked it once already.
>>
>>1539345
only one way to find out



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