So I got lucky anon.The library I work for just got a 3D printer that I can use 10 hours a day and my first project is gonna be an Arcade Stick. Sadly I have no experience modeling or making stl files needed. But here is my pitch.First thing I went to was thinkverse and Google to see what they got but did not get inspired. However I saw two that caught my eye to frankanstine a design from:The Hori Fighting Edge redesign by FoeHammerhttps://youtu.be/jg_dP55_4JUQanba Crystalhttps://youtu.be/trAtpeaZxkUEssentially it would look like this wooden take on the FoeHammer Hori Fighting Edge but with a side panel that the Qanba Crystal has on its right side.I have almost no experience making a model to represent my idea but it would be amazing to try and I could use the help. I could use colored buttons on the side for options and to access the guts I would make a standard board to unscrew from the bottom to make further mods and put in a Brook UFB.
>my first project is gonna be an Arcade Stick>I have no experienceDo more research. Step 1: Find out how to build an arcade stick the traditional way. Think about the electronics, buttons, and joystick assembly. Those won't be printed unless you're a genius.Step 2: Print a fucking cube before you dive into the deep end. Then print some useless trinkets from Thingiverse. Doesn't matter what printer your library has (unless it's a makerbot) but you have to learn how to 3d print stuff first.You posted nothing about what printer you have access to, so we can't really help you there.Step 3: Design the damn thing in CAD. Use Fusion360. Do not use sketchup. I repeat. Do not use sketchup. Export the STL.Step 4: Slice. The STL file is made of triangles which define the shape of the thing. Printers need to be told exactly where to move and how much plastic to push out and how fast. The STL file doesn't have any of that information. You need to "slice" the file with a slicer for your printer. Can't help you with which one you need to use since you didn't tell us which printer.Step 5: Regret all of this work because it's easier to build the whole thing with some fucking wood. Probably for the better, because a 3D printed one would look like shit and wouldn't fit the bed in one piece unless you have a hangprinter.
>>1510739Got it. Wood is the better choice.1.I have experience modding a arcade stick just no experience modeling in CAD and so on.2. Slice. I'll look onto this and see what I can do if it comes to it. I dont remember the actual model of the printer.3. Wood work seems viable, I got an art shop that just charges for the hour. When making an arcade stick out of wood, would you create a model for it? I couldn't find a case template for what I'm trying to emulate. I guess more research on my end was really for the best. Its I was running into dead ends when I searched around.
>>15107461. I was talking about sourcing the parts. Hopefully you've already found the kind of parts you like, or know where to get them.2. In all likelihood, you either have a makerbot or an ultimaker. For makerbots, use this https://www.makerbot.com/3d-printers/makerbot-print/For the Prusa i3 MKII or Prusa i3 MKIII, go here https://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/ and make sure to RTFM.For a Lulzbot, https://www.lulzbot.com/curaFor a Formlabs machine or any machine with a clear yellow plastic on the top (lucky you), I would not use the machine without proper training. The resin is photosensitive and TOXIC and not easy to deal with. They are suited to small, detailed prints. Good for buttons and smooth parts though. These printers cannot use any other software on this list.For any Ultimaker, Monoprice-branded 3D printer (such as the MP select mini), printrbot, and most 3D printers, https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software If you don't see your printer here, go to the manufacturer's website and look for the software.Most 3D printing software is either a derivative or Slic3r or Cura, with the settings already tuned in for the printer. Any fdm/fff (plastic) 3D printer can use slic3r or Cura to print, but you have to tune the settings yourself. 3. You don't have to make a 3D model for a wood cabinet, but you could. Most woodworkers just sketch it out on paper, but if you're not the one doing the woodworking, a 3D model isn't a bad idea. If it's going to be made of wood, it's okay to use sketchup, though I personally avoid it.Am surprised your library doesn't have training for the printer.
>>1510895Honestly if it is made out of wood I'd rather pay someone to make it.Ultimately, a 3D model would help but a simple sketch would be easier. I actually already have the parts from an existing modded Qanba Crystal. All Sanwa!So far only my management has training but that should change in the upcoming weeks. I feel like however, if the templates for the two sticks were available then I could just make minor tweaks to it to suit my needs.Besides that point I'm drawing up my own templates however crappy they may be. But after more thought and some questions answered I see wood being the better option for something at the size I am use to.
>>1510895Forgot to thank you for your help in this little project of mine, I seriously appreciate it anon.
Update so I got a better handle on the design and how thin I want the stick to be.Thanks to the anon that talked some sense into my 3D printing aspersions, they were to die out pretty fast, the printer would require me to break it down into too many parts to make something that big at 35.4 x 23.6 x 0.4 inches.So I'm gonna pay a guy to help me make the case and walk me through the process so I can /diy/ 100% on my own one day.