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Previous: >>10084979

What are you working on, gulls?
>>
unanswered questions from the end of the previous thread:

>>10213338
>>10213617
>>10217692
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saw this gobelin and I'm debating going back for it. the gobelin thread that popped up recently really inspired me.
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>>10223179
Looks like it's a decent prince, too. I will be interested to see what you do with it. Keep us updated.
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>>10223124
For the corduroy anon, I think a chunky cotton lace would look nice.

>>10223179
OMG yes go back and buy it.
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>>10223194
>>10223207
will do! I won't be able to go back until Friday, hopefully it's still there.

Also I just realized I never posted this here and only posted to reddit, I'm the same anon who had the coffee fabric and made the red dress and this is what I came up with design wise for the coffee print. Wanted to keep it simple since the print is kind of busy.
>>
I just finished a knitted bolero, but as I changed the pattern a bit (thinner yarn and needles) it won't sit properly. I'm thinking of knitting another one with different pattern but I haven't found good one yet.
>>
I’m making one of those old scraggly usakumyas! Just finished a second trial version in plain cotton - took a lot of fine tuning, but I’m getting there. Ideally, I’d love to make a tutorial to spread the pattern around and give others the opportunity to make one for themselves since they’re so hard to come by secondhand, but not sure where I can post something like that.
>>
>>10223121
The OP with the peter pan collar from Otome no Sewing 2. Today I put the sleeves on and I'm really excited to finish it soon!
>>
>>10223423
that would be so nice, I would love to make one for myself too. you could share it here, and there’s also a handmade lolita Facebook page. insta would be good too, you can use google drive or Dropbox to make it easily accessible.
>>
>>10223423
Anon, I would love to see your tutorial for it! You can post it to Lolita Sewing Collective on FB or to dropbox and link it here
>>
>>10223121
Maybe this is better suited for the stupid questions thread, but it's handmade-specific: where do you buy high-quality lace?
>>
>>10223808

If your local shops don't have any, I think most people buy through taobao.

Alternatively, old egl/sew_loli used to recommend kuboriki and cheeptrims. Cheeptrims sells entire yards so you should see if anyone else in your area sews and you can do a group order together, it's mainly good if you want a whole lot of lace very, very cheap. Kuboriki's old site doesn't seem to have updated since 2008, but they have a shop on rakuten: https://www.rakuten.co.jp/kuboriki/

If you're into sweet, you can also try laces.taobao.com, but be warned this shop copies brand lace, which also makes it the only reliable spot to find lace with AP motifs. I'll leave the morals to you/your comm whether this is okay with you or not.
>>
>>10223855
I've visited the local Joann's, and their lace looked really crappy.

I'm looking for small amounts in a variety of styles to make/decorate little accessories like socks, wristcuffs, headwear, maybe even cutsews if I get good. I mainly want it to be high-quality (and I don't mind paying more for it), which is hard to tell from low-res photos, so I'm wondering if there are particular listings that anons have bought and can vouch for or if there are specific search terms I should use to filter the medium stuff from the really nice stuff. Is there anything available that's considered brand-quality?

I think I wouldn't mind a lace design replica as long as it didn't have the brand's logo or initials. Is that something people would notice? I guess it doesn't matter since I'm a loner - I don't have anyone to judge me or share orders with me.
>>
>>10223236
Bodice construction lines, bib and 2 waist darts, will not look good with this print even if you waste a lot of fabric pattern matching. I’d redesign the bodice as a switching style if you want to use this print. The collar, waist and and cuff color is also kind of unfortunate. I’d never put that color next to skin without a very good reason, it’s going to look gross. You seem like the type who likes to draw ideas and try for unique design a bit too hard, but can’t actually competently draft patterns or drape with a good eye for color and motif.
>>
>>10223179
Ugh, lucky duck, where? I’d love that piece.
>>
>>10224092
People notice lace motifs, yes. Logo, mascot to name is a no go, if it was identical but containing none of the above is questionable but I think it would squeak by. Something like this carousel horse without the ‘AP’ would be a good example of questionable but probably ok, but with the letters, not ok.
>>
Can anyone tell me what the instructions for placing the pocket mean? How far across from the seam should they be? (ONS13 heart pocket skirt)
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>>10224172
Looks like halfway between the center fold and edge. 15cm up on the front only.
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>>10224157
hmm! I hadn't considered how that goldenrod color would mesh with my skin. I picked it based on feedback from the previous thread, but desu there's a decent chance I'll go with offwhite or black bc that color is really hard to find without resorting to custom dying. a switching style could be really cute, though! if the bodice does in fact look like hot garbage that's a great backup plan, thanks.

I'd say my sewing is at least past beginner, but my critical eye for the fashion isn't as sharp as it needs to be yet. prints aren't really my forte or preference, I just thought the fabric was cute. I think I can at least make something wearable out of it, but if not then, well, there's no such thing as too much practice.

>>10224159
hobby lobby in the clearance section, surprisingly! they also had some nice ribbed black velveteen.
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>>10223121
https://mega.nz/#!9PxW1IAC!W3O1fHqCC35kMI9PDV5w21C_iPDIOZEXgGlPXcrtn-U

Here we go! Found the scans. Also here's the link to a bunch of GLB and GosuRori scans. https://chochololita.livejournal.com/ It'd be cool if the next anon who makes a sewing thread would stick these in the OP so we don't have to keep tracking them down.
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>>10224092

Some of the stuff like candies, donuts, maybe that particular star lace and the MM rose lace, it's really obvious that it's copied from burando. But, as with the example here, there's signs that they just made a design knockoff and not a replica, the stars here aren't even properly done as stars. This is pretty much the textbook example for design knockoff, it's so obviously copied and yet also obviously slightly changed up so it's not a direct replica.

I usually just point all these things out and then leave it to whoever's interested whether they want the lace or if they'd rather not. If you want a review, I've bought the star one and it's comparable to AP, quite soft and nicely done. I haven't tested how long before the lace fades though.

With regards to your other question, it's difficult to recommend a lace shop where you can buy everything without looking, because lace shops generally carry all types of lace, so whichever shop it is you'll probably still find they sell cheap raschel as well as expensive nice lace. If you're really lost, just stick to these:
(a)don't pick anything shiny,
(b) avoid raschel lace (until you know what you're doing)
(c) Same with organdy/organza lace, and anyhow they always look shiny, so see (a),
and (d)cotton lace to cotton fabric, poly/tulle lace with poly fabric,
and again, (e)Don't pick anything shiny.

That should be enough to keep you form buying bad lace most of the time.
>>
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>>10224092
I always find ordering lace online to be a gamble. Even different laces from the same shop can vary a lot in quality. When I can, I like to order a small sample before committing to a larger order, but with shipping times on stuff from China, that can be a hassle.

For instance, this is a recent order from the laces.taobao shop. The top & bottom three laces are nice quality, while the second, third and fourth were just okay (the embroidery threads are sort of fuzzy, so the lace has a slightly messy feel). Also, the dot lace (2nd from bottom) is shinier than all the others.
>>
>>10224326
Depending on bodice construction, if that fabric is pasted to scale here, it will look like a bunch of cut-off motifs. And if you try yo pattern match or center the motifs, you’ll waste a lot of fabric positioning the fabric pieces. There’s a good reason so much lolita uses border prints for larger motifs with the repeats above it being smaller. It’s hard to make bold motifs look decent on smaller areas like bodices, waist ties, sleeves and straps. Study good lolita prints, they may have a larger motif but the small elements within it can usually stand on those smaller areas without resorting to pattern matching other than to center a motif on the bodice.
>>
>>10223656
>>10223769
Thanks for the suggestions, they really helped! I don’t have a FB account, but I’m sure some kind gull could post it there on my behalf once it’s done. It’s probably going to take me a while, since a tutorial like that will have to be picture heavy and contain a lot of information/references.
>>
>>10224486
>>10224490
Thank you for the tips
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>>10224326
Some general design advice based on what you've posted: learn what colors work best on you. Google "what is my undertone" or something like that to get started if you aren't sure. Also keep in mind that prints with many saturated, bold colors can be difficult to pull off in lolita with the exception of bright pastels in sweet or jewel tones. Another consideration is the scale of the pattern. If it's too small it will be overwhelming if you use it for large blocks. This, besides actual quality of fibers, is why quilting prints don't work for lolita. It took me a long time to accept that just because I like a fabric print it doesn't mean it'll work well as a garment so I know where you're coming from. It helps to understand that "things I like" and "good design" don't always 100% overlap and that's ok.
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>>10224503
I'll be looking into brand prints a bit more then before making my next print fabric purchase, you've given me a lot to think about. AP's cream cookie parade was a bit of an inspiration for the coffee fabric choice since it also uses lots of larger motifs (and honestly the op design doesn't seem terribly concerned with the print matching up or even being centered on the bodice), but looking at it again I can see what you mean about the smaller details breaking up the larger aspects. Thanks for the input.

>>10224532
I suppose it comes down to the idea of "just because I can doesn't mean I should." I appreciate the sentiment, though, I know I'm not the only person who's made questionable fabric choices but it's nice to hear from someone who's been in the same boat.

At any rate, probably going to put the coffee dress on the backburner because I went back to hobby lobby today and got the gobelin. the lady sold me nearly five yards for the price of three because she didn't feel like putting the roll away. now I have to decide what to do with it.
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>>10224740
You have a great attitude! And that gobelin looks lovely and seems to be of a more appropriate scale for clothing. Good luck with your next projects!
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How could I go about making a fully shirred bodice? Like, 100% shirred. Any patterns and recommendations are very appreciated.
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>>10224816
Have a look upthread at the otome no sewing scans. I think volume 5 has a shirred OP
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>>10224816
>>10225068
derp, and Vol. 7 has a shirred JSK.
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>>10224740
That’s a really large repeat, very pretty fabric but also pretty obvious it was meant to upholster larger scale furniture. Maybe a coat or a jsk with a longer skirt and simple square bodice? Lay a bodice pattern full sized over the fabric and see if it can handle that motif without looking chopped?
Pic related, this is a big motif for lolita gobelin but still smaller. Any bigger ones I found had a switching bodice in a velvet color similar to the background color of the gobelin fabric.
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>>10224816
They usually look so bad though. Why not go larger and do a full back shirred one?
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>>10225068
>>10225069
Ah, sorry to waste your time. Thanks!
>>10225097
I like how they look, and I always seem to miss out when they're listed secondhand. Should I avoid it?
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>>10225261
If you like the look, I'd say go ahead
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What's a good pattern to start with when making lolita stuff? I've made garments before, so I don't think I need to start with a small bag or something since I know I can make that. I've just got no clue where would be a good start for jsks.
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>>10225788
I've used this with a square skirt:
https://www.simplicity.com/simplicity-storefront-catalog/patterns/women/dresses/new-look-pattern-6553-misses-dress-in-two-lengths/
>>
>>10225788
One of the Otome no Sewing books. Get actual lolita patterns and adjust them to fit. There are scans online so you can look to see which one has the most patterns you'll use.
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>>10225805
I forgot the blog with the instructions on how to translate the OnS patterns, anybody remember ?
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Has anyone ever actually made something using McCall's 2112 (Charm School?) I'm not a fan of the colours they used on the example but wanted to see what other lolitas made with it
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I need opinions! I'm going to make a three tiered gingham skirt, with three different sizes of gingham (all the same colour though). Should I go smallest at the top or biggest? I'm thinking smallest at the top to biggest at the bottom but wanted other opinions.
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>>10225850

http://jessiedressesup.blogspot.com/2015/11/otome-no-sewing-sizing-up.html


Someone pointed out that her numbers don't really add up, but as far as the idea goes I think it's still a good one.

Additionally, for those C cups and above, I recommend measuring the patterns before you start and doing a full bust adjustment, quite often I find their busts are quite flat and their waists a bit big.
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>>10228512

I like smallest at the top too, but I also want to suggest that you can draw it out and then see what would theoretically look like, and then decide from there.

At least gingham is pretty easy to draw by hand, you don't need to do a full Imai Kira copy (she fills in the designs with a scan/copy of the actual fabric print, I believe).
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>>10228540
I didn't even think of that...

So I whipped open Photoshop (forgive the base skirt image being not very lolita) and yes, I think smallest at top is the way to go.
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>>10228512
Opinions: don't mix gingham sizes. Use real gingham weave fabric for anything lolita not printed checkered crap from the quilt wall. Three tiered skirts aren't ideal for lolita.
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>>10228539
Her finished clothes don't look or fit very well, I don't think I'd follow her drafting instructions. I'd trace the bust patterns themselves and do slash and spread on bodice patterns, adding bust increase, then measure and multiply for skirt increases in length and width.
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>>10228641
I don’t agree on the three tiered skirt part. There’s plenty of three tiered skirt patterns in otome no sewing books, as well as brand dresses, and they are all perfectly fine.
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>>10228641
Eh, it's tacky but I like it.
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>>10228641
I think that it looks nice to mix gingham sizes, like in >>10228656 but it needs to be executed really really well for it to look good. It's probably beyond the skill level of most DIYers, and therefore it is probably still good advice to not mix gingham sizes.
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>>10228414
I haven't seen anyone use it. I wouldn't recommend touching it.
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>>10228414
Just took a look at it, the proportions are off enough that you're better using your own bodice and sleeve pattern and just drafting a skirt.
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>>10225788
What do you want to make? Show a photo of some things you have in mind to make, which pieces, which styles, and tell us your sewing experience and then we can make some pattern recommendations.
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>>10228512
I own Triple Gingham from Baby, and you might want to go for the same general effect that they did with the gingham sizes.
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>>10229203
I think I might, after getting opinions here and really looking at my mock-ups the three tiered skirts is a bit too bland
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>>10228894
I'm still relatively new to sewing, what parts looked wrong to you? I'd like to know what to look for and not to look for when choosing patterns
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>>10229714
The skirt is too short on both views, the trims are wrong (too idol-costume-y), the suspenders and weird dip in the front of the skirt view are awkward and steamshit-y, the combination of weirdly shaped lapel and double breasted jacket makes the torso awkward, the rivets and chains are very Hot Topic, the peplum-thing disrupts the already low poof silhouette, and the cuffs are too blocky and inelegant.

With all of the issues, you'd be paying pattern prices for a weird jacket that needs hours of modification to make remotely usable, and a very basic box-pleated skirt that needs less modification but still needs work to make it long and adequately poofy. A box-pleated skirt is super easy to draft on your own, and is more otome than lolita.

If you heart's set on the open jacket OP with skirt thing, I'd recommend finding a jacket pattern with a collar and fit that you like, cropping the pattern to the waist, and then adding a lined circle skirt with an open front and maybe a kickpleat to the jacket hem. Also, slash-and spread the sleeve pattern at the top only for a little puff.

For the skirt, just search "how to draft a box-pleated skirt".

I'm no expert, but I am on the internet.
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>>10224092
Honestly, if you're not in a rush, I'd order from eBay. Hella cheap and you can find lovely stuff on there.
>>10223855
I've looked at cheeptrims again recently and I'm just not impressed. Also lol that their site hasn't changed in like 12 years. Thanks for the kuboriki link, i forgot about them!
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>>10230304
Are there any eBay sellers or listings you can recommend?
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What do you do with your leftover lace? I have bunch of laces that have like 5-10~ inches left.
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>>10233237
I’d make some wristcuffs and other accessories.
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>>10233237

Also accessories, but rather than wristcuffs I lean towards hair accessories and brooches

- lace chokers and bracelets (just put flat ribbon clasps on the ends and decorate the middle so it looks nice)
- trim matching bows
- trim a matching headband (if there's enough of it)
- trim a matching bag with it, especially if you have a fair amount of leftover fabric too (I like to use the print fabric as lining and use a heavier solid fabric as the outside, so the set doesn't look too 'homemade')
- if you make a simple flat bag (and trim it with the lace) you can hang it off your hanger and put the matching headbows, detachable bits and bobs that go with the dress in it so the set is always kept together.
- make brooches out of it (you don't need to make them like pic related, if you have enough, just make them like rosettes, using lace instead of ribbon, and glue something into the centre of it)
- For that matter you could make a lace rose and use it however.
- if you have the right amount and the lace is the right shape, you can glue it to a hair pin or barette, and then glue other things on top of it.

You don't really need to use up every single bit of lace to match the dress -- there's only so many matching bows and headbands and brooches that you can put with a dress. Save up the rest, the next time you make a dress that needs a lace brooch you can pull out your stash and use them up.
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What diameter of wire is most suitable for creating eye pins? I'd like to create a pearl link chain like pic related. I've watched a couple of Youtube tutorials. But they don't specify what mm wire to use.
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>>10233237

Someone in the other thread is talking about sock toppers, so yeah you could use the lace for that.
>>
Otome no Sewing 14 preorder is up on amazon.co.jp! I smashed that buy button.

https://www.amazon.co.jp/%E4%B9%99%E5%A5%B3%E3%81%AE%E3%82%BD%E3%83%BC%E3%82%A4%E3%83%B3%E3%82%B0BOOK14-%E3%83%AC%E3%83%87%E3%82%A3%E3%83%96%E3%83%86%E3%82%A3%E3%83%83%E3%82%AF%E3%82%B7%E3%83%AA%E3%83%BC%E3%82%BA/dp/4834748677/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=%E4%B9%99%E5%A5%B3%E3%81%AE%E3%82%BD%E3%83%BC%E3%82%A4%E3%83%B3%E3%82%B0&qid=1564735770&s=gateway&sr=8-2
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>>10233916
tfw ive been too intimidated to try any of the patterns.... even tho i own like 6 books...
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>>10233956
What are you intimidated by, Anon? If it’s the Japanese, maybe you could start with one of those patterns with a step-by-step photo walkthrough. I don’t speak any Japanese but after looking up some basic sewing terms like “machine stitch”, “elastic” and “interfacing” I’ve found those pretty easy to follow. It also really helps if you have general sewing experience because most of the steps are just common sense.
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Does anyone have a pattern similar to Penelope's from Burda? I've been searching for it but I can't find
no need to be free, I only need it to be digital.
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>>10233916
Are there any other preview photos out besides the diner set?
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>>10234038
There's this one from insta from a while ago too. Boutique_Sha oftens posts pics when the release is near
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>>10234039
>yesss, now stand up and do the same position honey
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Does anyone have any suggestions for a hat maker starting out?
Free tutorials and videos would be great, but I would also love any book suggestions.
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>>10234060
I know for a fact that "hat making" is a thing in the UK, even young people doing it for a living. Maybe look what's going on over there? It's probably some degenerate putting all kinds of shit in a hat, but maybe there's still someone with actual skill.
>>
Anyone know where I can commision/produce custom lace and fabric patterns from?
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>>10234082
Spoonflower
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>>10234082
https://www.luckyweaving.com/pages/custom-made-ribbons-trims
Seems to do some decent lace trims.
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Any good crochet patterns for wristcuffs? I really need some good wine ones
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>>10234181
I think your best bet would be to look up a rectangular shawl or doily and just make a small portion of it. There's a lot more variety to choose from than if you look for specifically wristcuffs.
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>>10224092
Do aliexpress! I buy laces from them a lot, cheap but good quality and free shipping, if you can wait for two or three weeks for shipment
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If you can recommend 3 OnS volumes, which ones would they be?
>>
If you’re looking to buy, one book is usually enough to fill a wardrobe and keep you sewing for a good while, if you aren’t after anything specific. I’d just be careful with earlier volumes as they can be harder to find.

That said, I think the A-line dress only appears in Volume 7, Best Collection, or older gosurori. So if you want that pattern, then Best Collection is easier to find and also gives you some nice patterns from vols 4-7.

As for my personal favorites, I like 13 for the variety. Even though it does rehash some old patterns, it covers: a sack dress, old school, underbust jsk, fully shirred, unshirred, nurse/meido, kitten ears, q-lolita, military (the bandgirl outfit), capes, cage skirt. Good book to have for a whole year, you could have a different style with every dress. Maybe not a good idea if you’re after a small capsule wardrobe, though.

Volume 11 did a layer-up concept that I thought was done the best out of 5, 6, 11 and 12. There’s two decent sets, take Tommelise/Thumbelina for eg. You can start with underskirt + blouse to a meet up. JSK + blouse for your next. Then underskirt + blouse + jsk (bustled). Then underskirt + blouse + jsk + lace vest/gilet. You build a more complex coord as you go, but you don’t need to wait until you’re done sewing all the pieces to start wearing it. Volume 12, 5 and 6 have layered outfits as well but you usually need to complete 85% before you can wear it.

The rest depends on your interest. Volume 9 has two cutsew tops and two cutsew dresses, although it’s not the only volume with cutsews, just the most. Volume 10 has military and qilolita. Volume 11 has the one wa-lolita cut. Volume 4 has a rabbit bag from scratch and a yukata. Volume 3 has a hoodie with rabbit ears or sailor collar. Volume 1 has a bustier. Pick the one that suits your personal interest.
>>
>>10237204 is in reply to >>10237096

Whoops, didn't realise the comment didn't quote correctly.
>>
>>10237096
That would depend entirely on what kind of style or pieces you are looking for.
For me it's 1, 5 & 7, they are great if you like Classic or more versatile pieces that will work for several substyles. I own all the volumes though, there's usually something in every issue that is worth making. Plus it's fun to collect them. I suggest you look at the scans and pick the volumes you like best. If they are sold out you can probably still find them on Japanese 2ndhand market. Those two best collection volumes are also worth picking up if you aren't looking for something specific and don't care about collecting the volumes.
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Do you ever find yourself having to upsize patterns from OnS? Is it easy to calculate how much to increase?
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>>10237443

Someone translated OnS volume 1, including the last two pages (which is always these two pages, on how to make the patterns bigger/smaller).

I've just started realising where I need to adjust patterns, unfortunately I mostly need a full bust adjustment (FBA), so looks like I'm going to guess where the bust line is and do that differently from these.
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>>10237782

second page
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>>10237443
I fit the M size so no, but grading patterns is not as simple as just enlarging a pattern in all dimensions. ONS patterns often don't have an indication of where the original bust/waist/hip line is and you have to self draft half the patterns anyway. If you have a good understanding of basic patterns, drafting and pattern shapes and don't fit their sizing the books are not really worth it; lolita patterns are some of the simplest shit out there.
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I love the fabric color they chose for this.
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I want to make something Wa. I'm going for black/white/grey as my colors, cause monochrome is hard to do wrong.
The skirt's going to be pleated black with white lace, pretty standard stuff.
The top is going to be grey. Would it be wise to go for a grey kimono fabric or stick with solids? Should I buy a kimono and fold it so the bottom doesn't show? It's hard to find but I feel like it would be worth it if i could find a half length sleeve with something nice at the bottom.
>>
>>10238270

Sorry for the block of text. There's a lot of options you could go with so I tried to cover a few different things.

If you make a seperate skirt and top/bustier, you'd be able to swap out the grey top for a kimono top and have both your options. Alternatively, I'd go for a jsk; you can always add a haori on top or re-cut a kimono into a blouse with kimono sleeves to wear under the jsk (this would even be a good use for those stained kimonos that go for cheap). You're not really limited to finding existing kimonos either, you can pick up one of those yukata-making books and make your own kimono top as well, though that would mean no lovely half-length sleeve pattern.

As for the top, it's hard to say what colour/design the top should be when we don't know the rest of the dress design, especially I'm not really sure what patterned fabric you're using. Something like seigaiha, asanoha, sashiko would be so subdued you could do do either a solid black top or patterned fabric and it would work either way. Something like a black fabric with a colourful print could be too loud without a solid top, but if you only make the skirt colourful it might be visually bottom heavy, it may need a solid top with colourful accents.

If you want more ideas than Meta, you can look up other wa dresses made by Qutie Frash, Millefleur, kerashop.

I'd just be careful about using actual kimono fabric, they're generally only ~36cm wider, which severely limits your patterning options. If it's old the dyes may be unstable as well, and if it's silk you'll want to think about using other fabric that can be drycleaning along with the silk. I'd personally go with a Japanese print fabric, if you're worried about accidentally picking a Weepanese fabric, you can either find a shop that will tell you where the fabric came from, or stick to ordering from Nippori-Tomato (it's an actual Japanese fabric store, so anything wa in it caters to Japanese people and not tourist gaijin)
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>>10237789

On the flipside, pattern-drafting is almost a whole different skillset in itself. I think there's still some value for those intermediate beginners who aren't totally novices nor skilfully advanced to get the books, if only to see how the patterns should look like and to see how some of the dresses are put together. In particular all the items are targeted at casual hobbyists, so at the very least you can be certain you don't start a project and then find out halfway through that it's far more complicated than you thought it would be.

imo, if you're only a handful of inches off from the measurements anyway you don't really need to draft the patterns from scratch. A lot of the dresses are kind of loose fit anyhow, there's very few items where the dresses need to be absolutely perfectly fitted to your body.
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>>10233417
I've made a rosary before, i just got a bunch of these eye pins, add the pearl and twist a new eye whilst linking the next pin. It's painstaking and you need to make sure to close them well or your hair will snag into them when wearing.
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I mead this today. First handmade Lolita skirt
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>>10233417
in my experience, diameter is only important if you're planning to hang a heavy charm from the finished chain. Look for 12 to 16 gauge wire if that's the case. Otherwise 18-20 gauge wire should be fine. Listings for eyelets like >>10238352 should note the gauge. You want to make sure the wire isn't too thick to fit through the opening in your bead, too!

Note that you'll need to cut the ends of the eye pin if you get the really long ones, which can leave a sharp edge that snags on stuff if you do it wrong. I find it helpful to look for eye pins that are about the length of my bead + 12-15 mm, which gives me just enough extra wire to make the second loop once I put the bead on.

This website is designed for rosary makers but has decent step-by-step photos of the process for making bead chains: https://www.rosarymakersguide.org/eyepinsjumpringschain.htm
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>>10238094

Well, now I'm properly excited. I feel like I've been waiting for a pattern like this since the "Antoinette" knockoff in Volume 10 that I didn't really like.

Thanks for posting! I preordered but haven't checked back to see what the cover looks like.
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>>10238094
Wow I love the sleeves here. I'll preorder It soon!
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Do any of the OnS booka have patterns for a bibbed dress?
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>>10238307
Thanks for the wall of text. All info is useful. I'll be wearing it to an event for Obon. Just got short notice I'd be going there.
I was looking at some old Kagome pictures, so It's more like pic related than the meta jsks. I plan on a kansashi or a beret or something. Nothing too big. I was thinking about using the kimono fabric only for the top. Making it half length, basically a short cut kimono.
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>>10238401
The red long sleeve OP in volume 2 has a bib (if we're talking about the same thing).
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>>10238426

If you want to copy that look with the printed sleeves and all, I'd suggest narrowing down your kimono choices to houmongi or tsukesage, they're the ones most likely to have this kind of sleeve painted with motifs. The downside is it's formal wear, so it usually isn't cheap, though you might get lucky with a damaged one. It's much easier to buy a ready-made used kimono and simply tie it higher as per her walkthrough, rather than buy a tanmono and try to make your own short kimono, especially with houmongi/tsukesage usually being laid out differently on a bolt.

It's kind of rare to find normal fabric (ie- not a tanmono) that has the right layout for these kinds of sleeves, and with an all-over pattern the design might be too big or too loud for the monotone effect you want.

If you want to go with a solid colour (black or grey), or a jacquard or some low-contrast patterns, then it might look too boring, as you're basically going to be two large blocks of solid colour with very little interest. But, you can add a little interest by using a colourful collar under the kimono top and adding something colourful to your waist (eg an obijime or a brooch). Sort of similar to this (though I imagine you'd want less contrast than this).
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>>10238426
>>10238581
You can find dirt cheap kimono on ebay auctions, and sometimes the only damage is a few stains on the lining or something small like that. The seller I like to buy from is sou_japan.

Also will mention that a friend of mine really likes wa and she made a half-length kimono for herself to wear under dresses and skirts. I don't remember if it was from a bolt of fabric or a damaged kimono, because she's altered/sewn her own things so many times.
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>>10237782
>>10237783
Exactly my problem too, bust adjustments. Thank you so much!
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Do scans of OnS 8-13 exist?
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>>10238905
Not on the net
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>>10238905
Complete, no. Scans of the color pages but no black/white pages with instructions.
You can find them here: https://misscarolbelle.wordpress.com/tag/otome-no-sewing/
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Is making a pattern off of an item I already own a bad idea?
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>>10238982
It's called pattern copying, and it can be tricky if you don't want to disassemble the original garment, but it's a good idea in general.
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Where do you all end up buying your Otome no Sewing?
I usually buy mine on Amazon Japan. The pro is that the process is very smooth and they ship through DHL, so it usually arrives here in about 3 days. The cons are the price of the shipping method.

Last time I tried buying through CD Japan. The shipping was cheaper, but it took around two months to arrive lol so... well.

I've been considering waiting until they release 2 or 3 volumes and then buying them through Mercari / YJP, when I can get it cheaper and through a SS.
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>>10238998

Thanks, anon. I'm going to start simple until I figure out wtf I'm doing
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Is this pattern from OnS 7 in the compilation book?
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>>10239034
I've been buying them from CDJapan from the beginning. What shipping method did you use? I always pick airmail and it arrives in less than 2 weeks usually.
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>>10239098

This seller has pictures of the patterns included
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Handmade-Lolita-Fashion-Otome-no-Sewing-Book-Best-Collection-Japanese-Book-New-/183812164905

There's a gap between no. 34 and no. 39 though.
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>>10239034

If you want them cheaper through a SS, rakuten books also sells them, well, assuming your SS can do rakuten books.

I get mine through kinokuniya, am able to flip through them in person, too, but there isn't much savings, they jack up the price so it costs just a bit under what it costs to get them from amazon jp anyway.
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>>10239174
Thank you!
Anyone know why OnS 7 is so expensive? I love ETC so I see a lot in that issue I want but the price is weirdly inflated compared to the others.
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>>10239363

They're mooks to begin with, not books that get republished, so supply is somewhat limited. A lot of the older volumes are also officially out of print and no longer being sold as well.

For volume 7 I think it's the A-line dress that most girls like above everything else in other volumes, practically every classic lolita brand has a similar A-line dress so it's certainly a popular cut, makes sense it's also the cut they decide to reproduce for Best Selection.

Almost everything else in 7 you can probably find a similar pattern in another volume of OnS. For >>10239098 you could try this pattern in volume 6 and add the frills and bonbons yourself. For the bonbons you could google for tutorials, or here's a random one: http://jessicacorlett.com/fabricbonbonsweets/
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Anyone have advice on telling good quality raschel lace from bad? I'm guessing size of the netting & shininess?

I know people generally say to avoid raschel but personally I love the look.
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>>10240299

Stiffness. Raschel lace is highly avoided because the cheap shit sticks out from your dress (it's basically plastic and really, really, really wants to lie straight rather than drape) and it's darn itchy. It's actually a very practical reason to avoid it, it doesn't just look like cheap shit, it's stupid itchy and uncomfortable af.

Although if it's shiny where it's not meant to be (ie it isn't metallic, just very shiny), definitely avoid that too.
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Does anyone sell their handmade items? What selling platform do you use; Facebook group(s), Etsy, Storenvy, etc? How do you promote your brand?

I'd like to start selling the headwear accessories I make. I've created a Facebook and IG page. But I'm not sure which platform people would prefer to purchase from? I don't really know how to promote my "brand", other than posting on IG and FB.
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Honest question, why do people need patterns? I always drafted my own patterns and it's not more difficult than following a ready pattern imo. Are there any advantages I don't know?
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>>10240610
Saves a lot of time using patterns. And not everybody knows how to draft.
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>>10240448
When I did (which was years ago) I used Etsy. It's good because you can get sales from normies who just happen to want a headbow as well as the lolita market.
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>>10240610
Drafting takes fucking ages for anything more complex than a simple skirt or bodice+skirt dress and you can easily fuck up each time you make an alteration to a block to turn it into a pattern and then have to laboriously repeat each step again. For a jacket, coat, or blouse I would 100% want a pattern because it's likely had some of the fit troubleshooting done already as opposed to flat drafting. Obviously if you have a major scoliosis, swayback or other fit issues that mean that you need to hugely adjust standard patterns there may not be a significant amount of difference between drafting and alterations to commercial patterns, but otherwise it's hugely time saving.
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>>10240610

Same, changing weight means it's much faster to use a pattern and grade between sizes rather than draft it from scratch every single time I want to make a totally different dress cut than before.

But additionally, I also find it useful to see what the patterns should actually look like, and instructions on how to put it together. Again, basic blouses and dresses are easy, how do I put together this minihat? How many layers goes into a petticoat, how long does each tier have to be? How wide is too wide for a tent dress, I want to look cute and not like I'm actually a tent. Does one sew a shirring channel for a wristcuff or nah? What does the pattern for bloomers really look like, is it ok to just make them wider or should the bottom be puffier so get that poofy pants look? How wide is too wide, I don't want a deflated balloon around my bottom. And so on, etc.

I have a full time job and not enough time to be mucking about with the sewing machine all day, so it's nice to have someone provide a shortcut with all the kinks worked out of it.

For otome no sewing in particular there's also the feeling that there's very few lolita publications left, so collecting one mook a year is a nice thing to do as well.
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>>10240610
Depends on what you're making, as others have said - you don't really need a pattern for a tiered gathered skirt, pleated rectangle skirt etc.

That said, one of the main advantages of working from patterns (at least to start with) is that it gives you a good grounding in basic dressmaking skills. For some people who have never worked from commercial patterns (and I'm not saying this applies to you) there is a huge lack of knowledge of basic skills, or even being able to spot if the fit of a garment is way off. I was pretty horrified when I was watching some videos by a lolita who used to run her own indie brand and offer brand alterations, to find that she didn't bother to check the grainline of pieces she was cutting out, didn't get what a facing was (on a brand dress she owned), couldn't understand why a seam had come apart when she had cut it pretty close without finishing the seam allowances, and so on.
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>>10240610
When I'm making clothes for myself, I tend to draft my own patterns. But if the person has bigger measurements than mine (I mean, 50cm+ my own) I prefer to have other patterns as a reference to draft it with more confidence.
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>>10240803

To be fair, you can get a lot of those things from a really good sewing book. Most patterns I've used actually don't really explain what a grain is and why you should go looking for it.

Though I kind of suppose it's easier to go in with the idea of making something and then look things up, rather than pick up a sewing encyclopedia and try to memorise all the chapters.
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>>10223179

very rough wip. nothing has been ironed and no seams are finished yet, this is mostly just a fit check. can't really move forward until some lace I'm waiting on arrives. I'm going to be using black cluny bc I love the look of old floral gobelin dresses with the stark contrast of black detailing. it's short now but there's going to be a ruffle that will add several inches to the bottom.

as >>10225087 pointed out the pattern is quite large, but I'm a pretty tall and curvy gal so I think it kind of works to my benefit here. pattern matching was a bitch but I think I did alright for a first try. I'll post the finished product whenever I get around to finishing it.
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Does anyone have an example picture of how bell-shaped skirt works with petticoat/lolita? I've heard it's a bad idea but does it not work even if it's not short skater dress?
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>>10241178
Very nice looking, anon! I like that you tried to match the pattern on the seams. Hoping to see it finished!
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sorry for spoonfeed question but what would you guys say is a good small project for someone who's a total moron newbie at sewing (but obviously would like to improve)? would bows or pretty chokers or rosettes be easy enough?
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>>10241372
Depends on what type of skill you want to start improving.

For sewing, I'd recommend either bloomers or rectangle skirt.You could also try a simple square fabric bag.

For accs making, I guess chokers and bows are a fine start, but these don't necessarily involve sewing skills.
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>>10241261
What do you mean bell shaped? Do you mean a circle skirt?
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>>10241476
Yes.
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Any ideas on making a dress like this? I'm mainly wondering if the collar needs to be a special shape, or should I just go with a long rectangle and then drape it across the dress and cut it where it lands maybe? A bias cut rectangle would handle curves better, I think?

(Don't mind the non-lolita pic. I couldn't find a qilolita dress showing this collar clearly )
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>>10241648
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>>10241178
Nice! I can’t wait to see the finished product.

>>10241689
Did you post this as an example of what not to do?
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What's a good go to fabric for a plain dress? Polycotton? Cotton?
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>>10241970
Thick cotton. Cotton is queen in lolita.
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>>10241697
not that anon, but it's a good example of a circle skirt and a petti
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>>10241648
desu the reason you don't see it very much because it often doesn't look very good, and it can just end up giving off a square dancing kind of vibe. Idk that I can recall a single example I could link you to. I know decent looking ones exist but it's way harder to pull it off.
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>>10241970

Polycotton and cotton are both fine, there's a lot more to the fabric than its fibres that decide whether or not it's suitable for lolita. Burando's standard isn't just 100% cotton, it's actually the weave-- cotton twill fabric with a slight sheen. However, finding the right weight of twill that's 100% cotton, isn't too shiny or too matte, isn't too thick to gather into a skirt, it's actually much rarer and harder than you'd think.

What I'd suggest is to go into a fabric store and touch everything, then buy what you like.

In particular you want to avoid the cheap cotton broadcloth that behaves like paper -- it drapes poorly (like paper) and wrinkles too easily, so it's hard to get a good silhouette, and the weave is coarse (it always looks so cheap). It may be 100% cotton but it's guaranteed to look like a cheap diy project.

Other than that (and avoid all polyester fabric, at least until you get a feel for which ones are low quality and won't breathe well), anything that drapes like a skirt should, isn't too shiny, and looks and feels nice, should work.
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>>10223121
I have an op with a weird tight neckline and a peter pan collar... does anyone have any suggestions for altering this? Maybe a squareneck or something???
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>>10242275
Thank you so much! I did wonder what the blend was on dresses. Im sure theres a fabric store still remaining in town...I'll check! But last time I checked it was mostly cheap stretch fabrics, stiff netting and poorly repeating printed polycotton.
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>>10242228
Okay. I kinda want to have this >>10241689 wavy look on the skirt. I guess I’ll just have to try it.
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>>10242290
This is more than a circle, probably two circles together. Put fishing wire or horsehair braid in the hem if you want that clamp volume in the ruffles.
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>>10242297
dropped pic, you can also make it three circles if you want even more, it will require math though
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>>10242290
https://lolibrary.org/items/btssb-cummerbund-circular-skirt

This is also a circle skirt, in the lolita (and not maid) style.
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>>10242303
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Tulle x Otome no Sewing are hosting an event ; collab, it seems? I can't read it, so it's here for those who can: https://tulle.spaceshower.jp/posts/6756996
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>>10241659
if it will have the shoulder and sleevehole that is similar to the photo, then cut those out as you would on that side of the peice, then fit it and mark where you would want the neckline edge to be. You are correct about using the bias for the most amount of stretch; however it is also an option for one with curves to still go along the straight grain and have a more specific line from the results of the fitting. If you're concerned about the item fitting for a longer term, the straight grain would hold up better over time
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>>10242290
Horse hair braid in the hem will give it that look. Its more common for cosplay than for lolita tho.
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>>10243074

I have the bodice and sleeves figured out, just wondering what shape the collar should be.

So if I'm reading your comment right I could also make a mockup and mark where I want the collar to fall, then trace the pattern from there? It's an interesting idea and would help the collar not stretch too much.Thanks.
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>>10242990

You can pop the links into google translate and it'll translate for you (if you're on mobile, request the desktop site) :

==========================
tulle x Otome no Sewing BOOK Presents “Namaiki tonight ” Vol.3 will be held!

"Tulle" x "Otome no Sewing BOOK" presents cute and fun event "Namaiki tonight " will be held soon! This time there will be a drink & bar time as an exchange party after the product sales time, so please enjoy it to the end If you love a cute world, please come and visit us ! Participating creators and participating brands are also looking for!

■ Admission fee: 500 yen including tax (only reception on the day)
Namiki Ribbon original postcards will be presented on a first-come-first-served basis!

● Dress Code: Summer party style!
Please wear clothes and accessories that image a summer party.

■ Participating members:
Akio Futaki, SAKU, Bisuko Esaki, conpeitou.
Brand (RoseMarie seoire, Enchantlic Enchantilly, Cendrillon Project, Udakyo etc.)
A handmade writer, tulle models may come to play too? !
Tulle production staff, Maiden's sewing book production staff, etc. will be announced as soon as they are decided!


■ Content:
・ Costrilling and photo shoots by Cendrillon Project
Experience the idol and princess feeling in a cute costume designed and produced by the Candrillion Project!
・ Product sales booth (handmade and other product sales, new product sales, flea market, etc.)
・ Introducing new brand works (such as try-on and reservation meetings)
・ Customer snapshot
・ Exhibition of items on Sewing Book of Otome
・ Video shooting and distribution in the venue (planned)
・ Tulle magazine, official website, SNS photography & video photography
・ Free exchange meetings
* Contents are subject to change.
==========================


(I've never heard of Cendrillon Project -- anybody care to fill me in?)
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>>10243332
I hadn't heard of Cendrillon Project either. Tulle has a page about it: https://tulle.spaceshower.jp/posts/6795371

Google translate tells me "It is a new costume production brand created to meet a wide range of needs in the genre of costumes, including idol costumes, stage costumes, and costume design in web games.".

The designer is Hiroko Tokumine of "Hiroko Tokumine Lolita wedding".
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>>10223121
I made a dress with 2 inchs wide full lenght box pleats, could that type of cut work with a bell/cupcake petti ( I wanted to make one )?
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Does anyone have any tips on adjusting OnS patterns? I want to widen the patterns. I saw a tutorial using some sort of calculations but my English is not that good and it got confusing.
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>>10243332
funny how they took bodyline pieces and made them look even more like horrible newbie costumes.
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>>10244602

Isn't that what these posts are?

>>10237782
>>10237783

There is this blogpost as well:
http://jessiedressesup.blogspot.com/2015/11/otome-no-sewing-sizing-up.html



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